Hi,
We're leaving on June 19th for an 8-day road trip in South Iceland. I've heard that even in summer, it's cold and the weather can change several times a day. Should we mainly pack winter gear, like a K-Way, fleece, down jacket, beanie, etc.?
Thanks for your tips!
Hi,
For those who’ve driven on Iceland’s gravel roads in their own or a rented Duster, could you tell me what tires were fitted on the vehicle?
Were they All Terrain tires or more "standard" ones like all-season tires, for example?
Follow-up question: if they were "standard" tires, did that cause any issues on the gravel roads and rough terrain?
Thanks so much for any info you can share. Best, Marc
Follow-up question: if they were "standard" tires, did that cause any issues on the gravel roads and rough terrain?
Thanks so much for any info you can share. Best, Marc
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Iceland for next July-August, with a car and tent, and I’m wondering about booking campsites. From your experience, is it necessary or even essential to book campsites in advance, or do you always manage to find a spot to pitch your tent?
We’ll also have the option to sleep in the car without pitching the tent. Does that give us the flexibility to stay outside a campsite for a night here and there?
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Mpec
I’m planning a trip to Iceland for next July-August, with a car and tent, and I’m wondering about booking campsites. From your experience, is it necessary or even essential to book campsites in advance, or do you always manage to find a spot to pitch your tent?
We’ll also have the option to sleep in the car without pitching the tent. Does that give us the flexibility to stay outside a campsite for a night here and there?
Thanks so much for sharing your experience! Mpec
Hi fellow travelers,
We’re planning our first trip to Iceland.
We’re considering renting a 4x4 where we could sleep from time to time.
My question is: What’s the current regulation in Iceland? Which areas allow sleeping in your vehicle, and where is it prohibited (requiring you to stay in campgrounds)?
In June, is it possible to find spots without having booked in advance?
Sergio
Hi there,
We're planning a full week in Iceland in April. Given the short timeframe to prepare, I’m asking for some help on the forum.
We’re considering renting a camper van to be more independent with our travel. - Is this really a good idea at this time of year due to weather conditions (cold nights, poor road conditions, etc.)? - Can we just "park" anywhere for the night to sleep, or do we absolutely have to go to a campsite? What are the approximate rates for a van with 2 people? Do we need to book in advance? - If this mode of transport is recommended, do you have any good places to rent one?
Iceland is still a big island with lots of points of interest, so I think it’ll be tough to see everything in 8 days. - Are there parts of the island we should prioritize in April? We like hiking (nothing too long—6 or 7 hours is out of the question) and unique landscapes. - Are some sites inaccessible at this time of year? - Is Reykjavik worth stopping for a day or two?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
Jeff
We're planning a full week in Iceland in April. Given the short timeframe to prepare, I’m asking for some help on the forum.
We’re considering renting a camper van to be more independent with our travel. - Is this really a good idea at this time of year due to weather conditions (cold nights, poor road conditions, etc.)? - Can we just "park" anywhere for the night to sleep, or do we absolutely have to go to a campsite? What are the approximate rates for a van with 2 people? Do we need to book in advance? - If this mode of transport is recommended, do you have any good places to rent one?
Iceland is still a big island with lots of points of interest, so I think it’ll be tough to see everything in 8 days. - Are there parts of the island we should prioritize in April? We like hiking (nothing too long—6 or 7 hours is out of the question) and unique landscapes. - Are some sites inaccessible at this time of year? - Is Reykjavik worth stopping for a day or two?
Thanks in advance for your answers!
Jeff
Hi everyone! 🙂
For once, I'm heading north... I’ve decided to spend a short time in Iceland, alone, during the first week of July. I’ll only have 5 full days there. Sure, it’s not much, so I’ll focus on what attracts me the most: the Highlands. Obviously, renting a 4x4—or even a regular car—on my own isn’t an option. That’s why I’m breaking my (probably unfounded) principles and have contacted local agencies for "day tours" in small-group format. Well, small-group up to 15 people, anyway... Oh well, I’m going for it! I’m really hesitant about visiting the Golden Circle on the last day, since I’ve read it’s become super crowded. I’d love your thoughts on this. Plus, if I visit that area, I’d want to include Bruarfoss, and as far as I know, only the Troll agency offers that detour. There’s also the Snaefellsnes Peninsula excursion that appeals to me, but it seems time-consuming. Time-consuming like the Jokulsarlon tour I’ve already booked. (But that’s on the first day, so I’ll still be full of energy!) By the last day, I’ll probably be running on empty... Otherwise, I’ll be doing 3 4x4 excursions that I’m really excited about: 1 in Thorsmork Valley, 1 in Landmannalaugar, and 1 in Kerlingarfjöll.
So, Golden Circle or no Golden Circle—that’s the question... Or maybe a relaxed day visiting Reykjavik and a lagoon. Blue Lagoon? Sky Lagoon? Meh...
For once, I'm heading north... I’ve decided to spend a short time in Iceland, alone, during the first week of July. I’ll only have 5 full days there. Sure, it’s not much, so I’ll focus on what attracts me the most: the Highlands. Obviously, renting a 4x4—or even a regular car—on my own isn’t an option. That’s why I’m breaking my (probably unfounded) principles and have contacted local agencies for "day tours" in small-group format. Well, small-group up to 15 people, anyway... Oh well, I’m going for it! I’m really hesitant about visiting the Golden Circle on the last day, since I’ve read it’s become super crowded. I’d love your thoughts on this. Plus, if I visit that area, I’d want to include Bruarfoss, and as far as I know, only the Troll agency offers that detour. There’s also the Snaefellsnes Peninsula excursion that appeals to me, but it seems time-consuming. Time-consuming like the Jokulsarlon tour I’ve already booked. (But that’s on the first day, so I’ll still be full of energy!) By the last day, I’ll probably be running on empty... Otherwise, I’ll be doing 3 4x4 excursions that I’m really excited about: 1 in Thorsmork Valley, 1 in Landmannalaugar, and 1 in Kerlingarfjöll.
So, Golden Circle or no Golden Circle—that’s the question... Or maybe a relaxed day visiting Reykjavik and a lagoon. Blue Lagoon? Sky Lagoon? Meh...
Yes, you might be surprised: my first trip to Iceland was back in July 1974.
It’s been a little over 50 years since I first set foot on Icelandic soil. I was 23 years old.
I was studying geography at the time, in that distant era.
My first trip to Iceland, in 1974.
Yes, you might be surprised: my first trip to Iceland dates back to July 1974. It’s been a little over 50 years since I first set foot on Icelandic soil. I was 23 years old. At the time, I was a geography student. I had just earned my bachelor’s degree and was finishing my master’s (what we’d now call a "master’s 2") in physical geography, with two specialties: glaciology and volcanology. In both fields, professors showed us slides of Iceland—glaciers and volcanoes—and in tutorials, we worked on maps and documents related to the physical geography of Iceland. So there you have it: ice and fire, in Icelandic « ís og eldur », I learned that year that it was Iceland’s national motto, and that’s what drew me there for my first big trip.
Iceland in 1974 was very different from today. It wasn’t a common destination. There were practically no tourists or tourist infrastructure. Some sites now famous and overcrowded were only accessible after hours of hiking on rough, unmarked trails. GPS didn’t exist, but I had managed to get local 1:100,000 maps that were pretty well done. I took my time to circle the entire island, camping in the wild. Most of my meager budget went toward the flight ticket and renting a Volkswagen "Beetle."
There were no paved roads in the country except in central Reykjavík and the main street of Akureyri. What’s now called Route 1 was everywhere dirt and gravel, pretty bumpy in places. According to my maps, this road didn’t allow for a full loop around Iceland: a section of about a hundred kilometers was missing on the south coast. But when I arrived in that area, I learned at a gas station that the last missing section had just been completed, finally allowing a full loop without backtracking. It was the section crossing the vast Skeiðarársandur, southwest of Vatnajökull. The new road was just a bulldozer track through this black ash desert. We crossed the multiple channels of the sandur on long single-lane wooden bridges. On these long pilings, the road was made of roughly nailed thick planks that made an awful racket when the car drove over them.
A nasty surprise: the cost of living. The difference with France seemed huge—everything was two to three times more expensive than back home. Prices were way beyond my tiny budget, and I wondered how I’d manage to get by.
The Icelanders back then were very different from today. From the start, I felt like a real outsider, ostracized, even outright rejected. Several times, when I asked for permission to pitch my small tent near a farm, the door would slam shut as soon as I asked (in English). Without a word… *Bam!*
So I struggled to feed myself, lacking money. I mostly bought loaves of sliced bread and corn flakes (unknown in France at the time), which I ate with cold, sugary milk. It was the cheapest and most filling thing I could find.
In Reykjavík, my only luxury was daring to enter a snack bar. There, I’d treat myself to a coffee or tea, having quickly learned that after paying for a cup once, you could go back to the counter and have it refilled as much as you wanted. I dreaded being asked if I wanted something to eat because I couldn’t afford it. Luckily, no one asked. So, alone in my corner, I’d pull out my loaf of sliced bread from my backpack and make sandwiches with the contents of the two plastic bottles on every table—one red, one yellow: ketchup and sweet mustard. I avoided the sideways glances from other customers. I’d eat my sandwiches and leave, both full and warmed up.
One time, near Selfoss, I saw a truck stop by the road and pick up two large aluminum cans left at the end of a farm track. A little further down the road, two more similar cans. I realized these cans were there to be collected by… well, I didn’t know who. No one in sight for miles. So, I’ll admit it: I stopped and opened one of those large cans, which contained a dairy product—a kind of very dense, compact white cheese (I later learned it was skyr). I scooped a nice layer from the top, smoothed the surface with my spoon, and carefully closed the can again. Yes, I know it wasn’t right, but that was over fifty years ago, and I can admit it now since the statute of limitations has surely passed, right? Another time, I boiled a piece of dried fish, hard as wood, for a long time on my camping stove—fish I’d taken from huge outdoor drying racks by the side of the road. On the road heading north from Reykjavík, the Akranes underwater tunnel didn’t exist yet. To get to Borgarnes and Snæfellsnes, you had to go around Hvalfjörður. Following the shore of this long fjord, I stumbled upon a whaling station in full operation. Intrigued by the plumes of steam and the sounds of machinery from the road, I stopped, and surprisingly, no one stopped me from entering the vast platform where workers were butchering a large whale. I’ll never forget the acrid smell of those huge piles of meat and bones, fat and guts, the screams of saws and winches, the steam from the boilers… A monstrous, hallucinatory sight that would shape a major interest for the rest of my life: whales.
At the end of my journey, I spent three days in the Westman Islands. The famous eruption of the Eldfell volcano had happened just months earlier, in 1973, and was barely over. Visiting Heimaey was one of the goals of my trip to Iceland, given my volcanology studies. Part of the fishing port was filled in by lava flows, and the entrance channel was reduced to just a few meters wide. Most of the village was covered by a layer of black, hot ash eight to ten meters thick. I walked on the roofs of houses—every now and then, a chimney or skylight would stick out. In the rain, this hot ash released intense steam; you couldn’t see twenty meters ahead. It felt like being in a giant outdoor sauna. The entire population had been evacuated during the eruption, but some residents were starting to return. Bulldozers and excavators were gradually clearing this gigantic mass of ash, street by street, layer by layer, avoiding demolishing the buried houses. A constant stream of trucks dumped these millions of tons of ash into the sea from a cliff. To finish clearing the houses, it was done with shovels and wheelbarrows, and this task was left to the homeowners. One day, I had the chance to lend a hand (or rather, a shovel) to a couple finishing clearing their house. They offered to let me pitch my tent near their place, on a thick layer of warm ash (I’d never experienced such comfort through my sleeping mat), and I’ll never forget that they gave me a big bowl of delicious soup they’d just made. The best meal I had during that trip. The next day, climbing the volcano, which was still smoking and spewing furiously, I nearly suffocated from sulfur dioxide and almost melted the soles of my shoes. So it was during this initiatory trip, 50 years ago, that my addiction to Iceland was born. The following year in Paris, by sheer chance—and perhaps helped by the magic of my amazing Kodachrome slides—I met a young woman who would become my wife. Very quickly, she became as hooked as I was on "the island of the world’s creation" (as I called it back then), and later, it was often her who’d say, "So… how about going back to Iceland this year?" We went back many times, in every season, summer and winter, and in every region of the country. And every time, when the plane starts its descent toward Keflavík Airport, we look at each other like kids invited to a birthday party, discovering the cake buffet… "Here we are… we’re back!"
Our travel conditions changed a lot afterward. With a better budget but still traveling independently, renting well-equipped 4x4s that let us go almost anywhere, at our own pace, including the highlands of the country’s interior. But always taking our time, dedicating each trip to fully exploring one region rather than rushing through kilometers. And leaving time for beautiful hikes or simply doing nothing—sitting at a viewpoint and just watching, observing the wild nature, in contemplative mode… Always staying with locals in the countryside, preferably on real farms with animals, thanks to an association of farmers offering accommodations. We speak fluent English and have learned a few common Icelandic phrases and expressions over time. With a bit of experience, we developed our little techniques for starting interesting conversations with Icelanders… who, thankfully, are no longer as distant as they were in 1974! We even made friends there.
We particularly loved the rugged, wild Iceland—not necessarily the desolate highlands of the interior, but rather the isolated regions where a few very old families still cling to their land and roots. With a soft spot for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and especially the Westfjords, the "Vestfirðir," as the Icelanders call them. But we also love the Northeast, and even the far Northeast, so remote and where almost no one goes. Over time, we’ve done a lot of reading. We’ve learned a great deal about Iceland—its painful history, its tormented geography, its economy, its incredible medieval literature (the Sagas), and some quirks of its culture. And we greatly appreciate its contemporary authors, whose books fill several shelves in our library.
In 2008, on a return trip to Iceland, we went to the Westman Islands, to Heimaey. I hadn’t been back since my first trip in 1974, right after the Eldfell eruption. It was a pilgrimage for me, so many years later! An emotional moment seeing the huge frozen lava flow again. On the trails now set up to explore this vast chaos, people have put up signs indicating the names of the streets buried under the lava and the nature of the crushed buildings fifteen meters below. Plaques mark the locations of public buildings—here was the school, down there was the hospital… The part of the town that was under ash has been cleared, but not entirely—two streets were left partially buried, probably to show tourists. The volcano is still hot at the top. We climbed it, but this time I didn’t melt my soles.
We often talk about Iceland. We still call it "the island of the world’s creation" and tell our traveler friends how much this country fascinated and enchanted us. Those who’ve never been find it a bit odd, but everyone who’s been there understands.
You may have noticed I’m talking about it in the past tense… Indeed, I’ll admit that for several years now, we haven’t been back to Iceland, and I don’t think we’ll return. What we see on social media and in the news puts us off a bit. Mass tourism has arrived, and many developments have been made—not always for the best. Now, with two and a half million visitors a year, Iceland welcomes nearly six times its population. Tourism has become a key source of income for Icelanders. Good for them, maybe, but we don’t like it at all. We’re a bit wild, perhaps. And besides… the world is vast… We loved Iceland passionately, but we’ve always been inveterate travelers in general. So over the past fifty years, we’ve certainly explored all of Iceland’s regions, but also in the North Atlantic—the beautiful Norway, the stunning Lofoten Islands, the Shetland archipelago, the rugged and grand Faroe Islands, and then further north in the Arctic—the icy Greenland, Svalbard at the edge of the world, and even the Sjuøyane, the last islands before the North Pole, with small groups of enthusiasts and scientists on expedition ships. And many other regions of the world, but always with a taste for slightly offbeat places, both in terms of landscapes and nature and ways of life. Central Asia, the Azores, Peru, Bolivia, the Andes, Chile, Argentina, the vast Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego… and other little secret gems we won’t reveal. Not even on Voyage Forum.
But everywhere—yes, I mean everywhere—wherever you are, wherever you go, there’s always a moment when you think of Iceland…
Chris 51 - November 2025.
Yes, you might be surprised: my first trip to Iceland dates back to July 1974. It’s been a little over 50 years since I first set foot on Icelandic soil. I was 23 years old. At the time, I was a geography student. I had just earned my bachelor’s degree and was finishing my master’s (what we’d now call a "master’s 2") in physical geography, with two specialties: glaciology and volcanology. In both fields, professors showed us slides of Iceland—glaciers and volcanoes—and in tutorials, we worked on maps and documents related to the physical geography of Iceland. So there you have it: ice and fire, in Icelandic « ís og eldur », I learned that year that it was Iceland’s national motto, and that’s what drew me there for my first big trip.
Iceland in 1974 was very different from today. It wasn’t a common destination. There were practically no tourists or tourist infrastructure. Some sites now famous and overcrowded were only accessible after hours of hiking on rough, unmarked trails. GPS didn’t exist, but I had managed to get local 1:100,000 maps that were pretty well done. I took my time to circle the entire island, camping in the wild. Most of my meager budget went toward the flight ticket and renting a Volkswagen "Beetle."
There were no paved roads in the country except in central Reykjavík and the main street of Akureyri. What’s now called Route 1 was everywhere dirt and gravel, pretty bumpy in places. According to my maps, this road didn’t allow for a full loop around Iceland: a section of about a hundred kilometers was missing on the south coast. But when I arrived in that area, I learned at a gas station that the last missing section had just been completed, finally allowing a full loop without backtracking. It was the section crossing the vast Skeiðarársandur, southwest of Vatnajökull. The new road was just a bulldozer track through this black ash desert. We crossed the multiple channels of the sandur on long single-lane wooden bridges. On these long pilings, the road was made of roughly nailed thick planks that made an awful racket when the car drove over them.
A nasty surprise: the cost of living. The difference with France seemed huge—everything was two to three times more expensive than back home. Prices were way beyond my tiny budget, and I wondered how I’d manage to get by.
The Icelanders back then were very different from today. From the start, I felt like a real outsider, ostracized, even outright rejected. Several times, when I asked for permission to pitch my small tent near a farm, the door would slam shut as soon as I asked (in English). Without a word… *Bam!*
So I struggled to feed myself, lacking money. I mostly bought loaves of sliced bread and corn flakes (unknown in France at the time), which I ate with cold, sugary milk. It was the cheapest and most filling thing I could find.
In Reykjavík, my only luxury was daring to enter a snack bar. There, I’d treat myself to a coffee or tea, having quickly learned that after paying for a cup once, you could go back to the counter and have it refilled as much as you wanted. I dreaded being asked if I wanted something to eat because I couldn’t afford it. Luckily, no one asked. So, alone in my corner, I’d pull out my loaf of sliced bread from my backpack and make sandwiches with the contents of the two plastic bottles on every table—one red, one yellow: ketchup and sweet mustard. I avoided the sideways glances from other customers. I’d eat my sandwiches and leave, both full and warmed up.
One time, near Selfoss, I saw a truck stop by the road and pick up two large aluminum cans left at the end of a farm track. A little further down the road, two more similar cans. I realized these cans were there to be collected by… well, I didn’t know who. No one in sight for miles. So, I’ll admit it: I stopped and opened one of those large cans, which contained a dairy product—a kind of very dense, compact white cheese (I later learned it was skyr). I scooped a nice layer from the top, smoothed the surface with my spoon, and carefully closed the can again. Yes, I know it wasn’t right, but that was over fifty years ago, and I can admit it now since the statute of limitations has surely passed, right? Another time, I boiled a piece of dried fish, hard as wood, for a long time on my camping stove—fish I’d taken from huge outdoor drying racks by the side of the road. On the road heading north from Reykjavík, the Akranes underwater tunnel didn’t exist yet. To get to Borgarnes and Snæfellsnes, you had to go around Hvalfjörður. Following the shore of this long fjord, I stumbled upon a whaling station in full operation. Intrigued by the plumes of steam and the sounds of machinery from the road, I stopped, and surprisingly, no one stopped me from entering the vast platform where workers were butchering a large whale. I’ll never forget the acrid smell of those huge piles of meat and bones, fat and guts, the screams of saws and winches, the steam from the boilers… A monstrous, hallucinatory sight that would shape a major interest for the rest of my life: whales.
At the end of my journey, I spent three days in the Westman Islands. The famous eruption of the Eldfell volcano had happened just months earlier, in 1973, and was barely over. Visiting Heimaey was one of the goals of my trip to Iceland, given my volcanology studies. Part of the fishing port was filled in by lava flows, and the entrance channel was reduced to just a few meters wide. Most of the village was covered by a layer of black, hot ash eight to ten meters thick. I walked on the roofs of houses—every now and then, a chimney or skylight would stick out. In the rain, this hot ash released intense steam; you couldn’t see twenty meters ahead. It felt like being in a giant outdoor sauna. The entire population had been evacuated during the eruption, but some residents were starting to return. Bulldozers and excavators were gradually clearing this gigantic mass of ash, street by street, layer by layer, avoiding demolishing the buried houses. A constant stream of trucks dumped these millions of tons of ash into the sea from a cliff. To finish clearing the houses, it was done with shovels and wheelbarrows, and this task was left to the homeowners. One day, I had the chance to lend a hand (or rather, a shovel) to a couple finishing clearing their house. They offered to let me pitch my tent near their place, on a thick layer of warm ash (I’d never experienced such comfort through my sleeping mat), and I’ll never forget that they gave me a big bowl of delicious soup they’d just made. The best meal I had during that trip. The next day, climbing the volcano, which was still smoking and spewing furiously, I nearly suffocated from sulfur dioxide and almost melted the soles of my shoes. So it was during this initiatory trip, 50 years ago, that my addiction to Iceland was born. The following year in Paris, by sheer chance—and perhaps helped by the magic of my amazing Kodachrome slides—I met a young woman who would become my wife. Very quickly, she became as hooked as I was on "the island of the world’s creation" (as I called it back then), and later, it was often her who’d say, "So… how about going back to Iceland this year?" We went back many times, in every season, summer and winter, and in every region of the country. And every time, when the plane starts its descent toward Keflavík Airport, we look at each other like kids invited to a birthday party, discovering the cake buffet… "Here we are… we’re back!"
Our travel conditions changed a lot afterward. With a better budget but still traveling independently, renting well-equipped 4x4s that let us go almost anywhere, at our own pace, including the highlands of the country’s interior. But always taking our time, dedicating each trip to fully exploring one region rather than rushing through kilometers. And leaving time for beautiful hikes or simply doing nothing—sitting at a viewpoint and just watching, observing the wild nature, in contemplative mode… Always staying with locals in the countryside, preferably on real farms with animals, thanks to an association of farmers offering accommodations. We speak fluent English and have learned a few common Icelandic phrases and expressions over time. With a bit of experience, we developed our little techniques for starting interesting conversations with Icelanders… who, thankfully, are no longer as distant as they were in 1974! We even made friends there.
We particularly loved the rugged, wild Iceland—not necessarily the desolate highlands of the interior, but rather the isolated regions where a few very old families still cling to their land and roots. With a soft spot for the Snæfellsnes Peninsula and especially the Westfjords, the "Vestfirðir," as the Icelanders call them. But we also love the Northeast, and even the far Northeast, so remote and where almost no one goes. Over time, we’ve done a lot of reading. We’ve learned a great deal about Iceland—its painful history, its tormented geography, its economy, its incredible medieval literature (the Sagas), and some quirks of its culture. And we greatly appreciate its contemporary authors, whose books fill several shelves in our library.
In 2008, on a return trip to Iceland, we went to the Westman Islands, to Heimaey. I hadn’t been back since my first trip in 1974, right after the Eldfell eruption. It was a pilgrimage for me, so many years later! An emotional moment seeing the huge frozen lava flow again. On the trails now set up to explore this vast chaos, people have put up signs indicating the names of the streets buried under the lava and the nature of the crushed buildings fifteen meters below. Plaques mark the locations of public buildings—here was the school, down there was the hospital… The part of the town that was under ash has been cleared, but not entirely—two streets were left partially buried, probably to show tourists. The volcano is still hot at the top. We climbed it, but this time I didn’t melt my soles.
We often talk about Iceland. We still call it "the island of the world’s creation" and tell our traveler friends how much this country fascinated and enchanted us. Those who’ve never been find it a bit odd, but everyone who’s been there understands.
You may have noticed I’m talking about it in the past tense… Indeed, I’ll admit that for several years now, we haven’t been back to Iceland, and I don’t think we’ll return. What we see on social media and in the news puts us off a bit. Mass tourism has arrived, and many developments have been made—not always for the best. Now, with two and a half million visitors a year, Iceland welcomes nearly six times its population. Tourism has become a key source of income for Icelanders. Good for them, maybe, but we don’t like it at all. We’re a bit wild, perhaps. And besides… the world is vast… We loved Iceland passionately, but we’ve always been inveterate travelers in general. So over the past fifty years, we’ve certainly explored all of Iceland’s regions, but also in the North Atlantic—the beautiful Norway, the stunning Lofoten Islands, the Shetland archipelago, the rugged and grand Faroe Islands, and then further north in the Arctic—the icy Greenland, Svalbard at the edge of the world, and even the Sjuøyane, the last islands before the North Pole, with small groups of enthusiasts and scientists on expedition ships. And many other regions of the world, but always with a taste for slightly offbeat places, both in terms of landscapes and nature and ways of life. Central Asia, the Azores, Peru, Bolivia, the Andes, Chile, Argentina, the vast Patagonia, Tierra del Fuego… and other little secret gems we won’t reveal. Not even on Voyage Forum.
But everywhere—yes, I mean everywhere—wherever you are, wherever you go, there’s always a moment when you think of Iceland…
Chris 51 - November 2025.
Hi everyone.
There are quite a few posts about these excursions, but they’re pretty old.
Do you have any (more recent) info on excursions or other experiences in these Icelandic ports: Reykjavik, Isafjordur, and Akureyri? We’re traveling at the end of August 2026 with MSC, and their prices are really high. Thanks so much
Do you have any (more recent) info on excursions or other experiences in these Icelandic ports: Reykjavik, Isafjordur, and Akureyri? We’re traveling at the end of August 2026 with MSC, and their prices are really high. Thanks so much
Hi there,
We’re a group of 4 heading out at the end of June for 11 days. I’m just starting my research. We’ll be renting a regular car, not a 4x4. I’m not finding a ton of info on the North. Would love your take on all those kilometers—is there a route that lets us cut out a section? Thanks
We’re a group of 4 heading out at the end of June for 11 days. I’m just starting my research. We’ll be renting a regular car, not a 4x4. I’m not finding a ton of info on the North. Would love your take on all those kilometers—is there a route that lets us cut out a section? Thanks
Ah, Iceland and us—it’s a long story, or rather, a long wait... The first time we considered going was already 7-8 years ago, after reading travel journals describing breathtaking landscapes, countless active or dormant volcanoes, glaciers, and endless waterfalls with extraordinary flows.
Ah, Iceland and us—it’s quite the story, or rather, a long wait... The first time we considered going was already 7-8 years ago, after reading travel journals describing breathtaking landscapes, countless active and dormant volcanoes, glaciers, and waterfalls with extraordinary flows. In short, this island, made of fire and ice, right at Europe’s doorstep with its own unique culture, had nothing but advantages, and it was urgent to visit without delay 😇
My *Routard* guidebook is actually from 2016. So why did Iceland make us wait so long before we finally gave in to its charms? Yes, why indeed?
Simply because reading other travel journals revealed the cost of living there—and especially the harsh climate, even in the middle of July 🤪! Some journals described entire weeks of rain and foggy weather, making it tricky to explore the island. The budget wasn’t spared either, because in the most touristy areas, especially in the south and around Myvatn, accommodation prices are downright indecent—even outright robbery. 😕
Plus, in the Highlands, there’s literally no permanent lodging, and the only way to spend several nights there is to camp. And camping in winter conditions wasn’t exactly part of our plans... 😄
So, year after year, this trip kept getting postponed...
until August 2023, when prices for Southern Africa, North or South America, or even Asia were all way too high for summer 2024!
That’s when I turned my attention back to the Land of Fire and Ice and scoured all the comparison sites for the best accommodation deals across the country. Planning for 20 nights, I found 13 nights in "proper" lodging for 5 people at an average cost of under 200 €! A miracle, considering that in the southern glacier region, around Vik or Myvatn, prices range from 300 to 1000 € per night 😮 😮!
Still, that means we’ll have to camp for 7 nights, mostly in the Highlands, near Askja or Landmannalaugar. 😎
For once, I built the daily itinerary entirely around the decently priced lodgings I found 11 months in advance! The shortage of places to stay in some areas forced me to plan a few long transition days and make some tough choices. No big deal, though—there’s so much to do on this island 🙂!
Once the main itinerary was set, everyone agreed to the plan: 2/3 in proper lodging and 1/3 camping, even the most camping-averse among us! *Follow my gaze...*
By the time we bought the flight tickets, I had to tweak the itinerary a bit because one or two places were already booked! Plus, it was impossible to wait for a more refined plan to adjust reservations, since almost all bookings are non-refundable!! The harsh law of supply and demand...
For the car rental, we booked a Hyundai Tucson, approved for the Highlands, from Lava Car Rental—a company I’d read good reviews about in a Facebook group—for a cool 2500 € with full insurance. A real 4x4, like a Defender, would’ve been more than double...! Welcome to Iceland 😕...
Activities and excursions also required some tough choices. We had two must-dos: whale watching in Húsavík (60 € pp on Getyourguide) and a Glacier and Summer Treasure Glacier Walk with BlueIceland (165 € pp with discount codes on Getyourguide).
For the baths, we skipped the Blue Lagoon—too expensive—in favor of the Secret Lagoon and the Myvatn Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equivalent but half the price.
Two baths for the price of one... and even more, since I spotted several free hot-water swimming spots.
Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave Day 2: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula Day 3: Stykkishólmur - Sturlungalaug Hot Springs Day 4: Northwest Coast - Akureyri - Goðafoss Day 5: Myvatn Day 6: Myvatn - Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðhólar Day 7: Húsavík Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss Day 8: Stuðlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður Day 9: Puffin colony - Störurð Hike Day 10: Hengifoss - East Fjords, Mjóifjörður Day 11: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón Day 12: Glacier Excursion - Svartifoss Day 13: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vík Day 14: Þakgil - Lava Show Vík Day 15: Southern Waterfalls Day Day 16: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike Day 17: Landmannalaugar - Bláhnjúkur - Brennisteinsalda Day 18: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss Day 19: Geysir - Reykjavik Day 20: Bruarfoss - Þingvellir - Kerid Crater - Krýsuvík Geothermal Area Day 21: Reykjanes Peninsula
Friday, July 5, 2024, is our last workday before driving up to Alsace overnight to leave the cockers at Grandpa’s for boarding. Then, at 1:30 AM, we’ll head to Frankfurt, where a direct flight to Iceland awaits.
We arrive at 4 AM. Since we leave at 7 AM, the "night" will only last the equivalent of a 30-minute nap 🤪... just enough to get us in the road-trip mood 😏!!
My *Routard* guidebook is actually from 2016. So why did Iceland make us wait so long before we finally gave in to its charms? Yes, why indeed?
Simply because reading other travel journals revealed the cost of living there—and especially the harsh climate, even in the middle of July 🤪! Some journals described entire weeks of rain and foggy weather, making it tricky to explore the island. The budget wasn’t spared either, because in the most touristy areas, especially in the south and around Myvatn, accommodation prices are downright indecent—even outright robbery. 😕
Plus, in the Highlands, there’s literally no permanent lodging, and the only way to spend several nights there is to camp. And camping in winter conditions wasn’t exactly part of our plans... 😄
So, year after year, this trip kept getting postponed...
until August 2023, when prices for Southern Africa, North or South America, or even Asia were all way too high for summer 2024!
That’s when I turned my attention back to the Land of Fire and Ice and scoured all the comparison sites for the best accommodation deals across the country. Planning for 20 nights, I found 13 nights in "proper" lodging for 5 people at an average cost of under 200 €! A miracle, considering that in the southern glacier region, around Vik or Myvatn, prices range from 300 to 1000 € per night 😮 😮!
Still, that means we’ll have to camp for 7 nights, mostly in the Highlands, near Askja or Landmannalaugar. 😎
For once, I built the daily itinerary entirely around the decently priced lodgings I found 11 months in advance! The shortage of places to stay in some areas forced me to plan a few long transition days and make some tough choices. No big deal, though—there’s so much to do on this island 🙂!
Once the main itinerary was set, everyone agreed to the plan: 2/3 in proper lodging and 1/3 camping, even the most camping-averse among us! *Follow my gaze...*
By the time we bought the flight tickets, I had to tweak the itinerary a bit because one or two places were already booked! Plus, it was impossible to wait for a more refined plan to adjust reservations, since almost all bookings are non-refundable!! The harsh law of supply and demand...
For the car rental, we booked a Hyundai Tucson, approved for the Highlands, from Lava Car Rental—a company I’d read good reviews about in a Facebook group—for a cool 2500 € with full insurance. A real 4x4, like a Defender, would’ve been more than double...! Welcome to Iceland 😕...
Activities and excursions also required some tough choices. We had two must-dos: whale watching in Húsavík (60 € pp on Getyourguide) and a Glacier and Summer Treasure Glacier Walk with BlueIceland (165 € pp with discount codes on Getyourguide).
For the baths, we skipped the Blue Lagoon—too expensive—in favor of the Secret Lagoon and the Myvatn Baths, the Blue Lagoon’s equivalent but half the price.
Two baths for the price of one... and even more, since I spotted several free hot-water swimming spots.
Itinerary: Day 1: Arrival in Reykjavik - Hraunfossar Waterfall - Surtshellir Cave Day 2: Grábrók Crater - Snæfellsnes Peninsula Day 3: Stykkishólmur - Sturlungalaug Hot Springs Day 4: Northwest Coast - Akureyri - Goðafoss Day 5: Myvatn Day 6: Myvatn - Dettifoss - Selfoss - Rauðhólar Day 7: Húsavík Whale Watching - Dettifoss - Selfoss Day 8: Stuðlagil Canyon - Seyðisfjörður Day 9: Puffin colony - Störurð Hike Day 10: Hengifoss - East Fjords, Mjóifjörður Day 11: Viking Village - Jökulsárlón - Fjallsárlón Day 12: Glacier Excursion - Svartifoss Day 13: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vík Day 14: Þakgil - Lava Show Vík Day 15: Southern Waterfalls Day Day 16: Landmannalaugar - Skalli Hike Day 17: Landmannalaugar - Bláhnjúkur - Brennisteinsalda Day 18: Secret Lagoon, Kerlingarfjöll, and Gullfoss Day 19: Geysir - Reykjavik Day 20: Bruarfoss - Þingvellir - Kerid Crater - Krýsuvík Geothermal Area Day 21: Reykjanes Peninsula
Friday, July 5, 2024, is our last workday before driving up to Alsace overnight to leave the cockers at Grandpa’s for boarding. Then, at 1:30 AM, we’ll head to Frankfurt, where a direct flight to Iceland awaits.
We arrive at 4 AM. Since we leave at 7 AM, the "night" will only last the equivalent of a 30-minute nap 🤪... just enough to get us in the road-trip mood 😏!!
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 adults planning a road trip around Iceland from May 29 to June 19. Since the Landcruiser is too expensive, we’d like to suggest another 4x4 to the agency. We can choose our own excursions and plan to hike Landmannlaugar (June 1) and Hveradalir (May 31). Do you know if they’ll be open by then? We’re hoping so!...
Back to the 4x4—what would you recommend: Toyota Rav4, Dacia Bigster, or Kia Sorento?
Also, do you think the artificial ice cave will be open around June 17?
Thanks for your advice! Christianede
Back to the 4x4—what would you recommend: Toyota Rav4, Dacia Bigster, or Kia Sorento?
Also, do you think the artificial ice cave will be open around June 17?
Thanks for your advice! Christianede
🎭 She wanted to see Auxerre, we saw Auxerre
I wanted to see Spain, we saw Iceland
As always... 🎭
That’s how this Icelandic adventure could begin. Choosing, did you say?
Indeed, while we’d planned for months to go to Spain, while the volunteer gigs had been sorted (and for 4 months before the date), I one day announced, “I don’t want to. I don’t find any meaning in it.” Meaning, a word I’ve been using a lot for months. What’s the meaning of life? What’s the meaning of MY life? For a long time, I’ve felt this need for adventures—adventures with a capital A. For a change of scenery with a sense of the unknown. To feel that thrill of events you can’t control, of people you meet and don’t understand, and customs you don’t know.
I still announced it properly, though. Not by saying: No, we’re not going to Spain. I did it with a certain class—not sure Mélanie would say that…
I chose a country she’d dreamed of going to: Iceland was high on the list. I sent volunteer requests on the site helpx.net before telling her, so I could be proactive and not just the person who complains and whines all the time.
We’d decided that September and October would be dedicated to traveling outside France and volunteering. A method I love for traveling. Discovering locals, the culture, cool places while helping and being housed and fed. What could be better?! After volunteering for a few days in Morocco last year on a lemon plantation, after 15 days on an organic market garden in the South Morvan this August, we really appreciate this way of traveling—which is why it was the plan: Volunteering in Spain at a Buddhist meditation center, with a short volunteer stint somewhere else beforehand.

Photo taken at the Kadampa Center France in April 2025 Well, I’d be lying if I said the responses to my requests came quickly. No. They took their time. I even had to follow up with everyone I’d contacted. Internet connection issues in Iceland? But miraculously, a week later, on a Friday in Auvergne, while I’m talking to my dad, the answer arrives. “Yes, it’s okay.” My heart skips a beat. My lungs relax. Finally, I find meaning in this trip. Me, always searching for meaning—my meaning, not the universal one—I’m going to explore distant lands with a culture different from France’s. He said YES! Indeed, the person who said yes—Björn*—lives in northwestern Iceland, an area known for its fjords, and which seems a bit remote. Proof: in the ad, it says the nearest town is 35 km away, and only two buses, one on Friday and one on Sunday, go there or leave. PERFECT! It also mentions taking a kayak to collect feathers from eider duck nests and taking care of rainbow trout. Things I don’t know how to do! And She said yes! So I tell Mélanie, who’d known about my last-minute change of mind since the day before—for the umpteenth time, I must admit. A little dilemma: our month of volunteering in Spain had just been sorted, so should we cancel it? Yes! The pull of Iceland and adventure is stronger! Change of plans, then. Normally, we’d continue our route to Montauban for the 400 Coups festival with friends, then stay in the south for the Mantra festival before heading to southern Spain toward Malaga. Now, the migration will be more northward since we’re returning to Rennes Monday morning (after the 400 Coups festival, which we wouldn’t have missed for the world!!) to change our wardrobe. Indeed, the weather won’t be the same between southern Spain and northern Iceland. It was September 12, and we were leaving on the 20th! Because, yes, that same evening, after arriving at our friends’ place and quickly summarizing the situation—even trying to convince one of them to join us—we start looking at bookings.
First thing: flight tickets—which I’d already more or less looked at and knew weren’t that expensive, thanks to low-cost airlines—,
Second thing: train tickets to Paris, and oh, miracle, they’re not expensive at all. 25 € per person one way! What’s happening at SNCF?!
Third thing: accommodation for Saturday night so we could take the bus on Sunday—which I hadn’t looked at and seemed quite pricey for just a bed in a dorm—.
Sometimes, we spend months and months planning a vacation (only to change everything at the last minute… We still remember the trip to Churchill…), and here, in one day, it’s almost done. Welcome to my life. Build, deconstruct, and rebuild. Why don’t I plan ahead? You have the answer. The week in Rennes does us good. Coming back to a familiar place after a month and a half of wandering around France. Resting because we’re accumulating fatigue. I also take the opportunity to have sessions with the few people who contacted me during our August road trip, see some friends, binge on galettes (5 galette meals in 9 meals—I went all out!), and realize we really need to take winter clothes—5°C expected in Iceland—. And boom, Saturday arrives. Like a calm river? Boom ??? No, that would’ve been too simple, too idyllic. Indeed, on Wednesday, a little message from Björn—who’s the intermediary between the volunteer site owner and us—tells us the owner no longer wants to host volunteers, so it’s off for us, and he’s really sorry. And that he can try to see with a friend if they can host us, if we want. What?! Uh, that’s not possible. Me, who changed all the plans at the last minute, how do I tell Mélanie we’ve got nothing left? That’ll teach me to never be satisfied with what I have and to always plan everything at the last minute. Take a breath: after all, the situation isn’t ruined. He has a friend who might host us, and maybe there are other ads I haven’t seen. So I tell him yes, and a few minutes later, he confirms it’s good, his friend is okay to take us starting October 1st, and he’ll host us until September 30th. Phew!!! The plan seems twisted, we still don’t know what we’ll be doing, or with whom, or where, but at least we haven’t thrown money out the airplane windows. After double-checking that I understood everything correctly, after confirming we still need to go to H in northwestern Iceland, it’s good, the clouds are clearing again.

I chose a country she’d dreamed of going to: Iceland was high on the list. I sent volunteer requests on the site helpx.net before telling her, so I could be proactive and not just the person who complains and whines all the time.
We’d decided that September and October would be dedicated to traveling outside France and volunteering. A method I love for traveling. Discovering locals, the culture, cool places while helping and being housed and fed. What could be better?! After volunteering for a few days in Morocco last year on a lemon plantation, after 15 days on an organic market garden in the South Morvan this August, we really appreciate this way of traveling—which is why it was the plan: Volunteering in Spain at a Buddhist meditation center, with a short volunteer stint somewhere else beforehand.

Photo taken at the Kadampa Center France in April 2025 Well, I’d be lying if I said the responses to my requests came quickly. No. They took their time. I even had to follow up with everyone I’d contacted. Internet connection issues in Iceland? But miraculously, a week later, on a Friday in Auvergne, while I’m talking to my dad, the answer arrives. “Yes, it’s okay.” My heart skips a beat. My lungs relax. Finally, I find meaning in this trip. Me, always searching for meaning—my meaning, not the universal one—I’m going to explore distant lands with a culture different from France’s. He said YES! Indeed, the person who said yes—Björn*—lives in northwestern Iceland, an area known for its fjords, and which seems a bit remote. Proof: in the ad, it says the nearest town is 35 km away, and only two buses, one on Friday and one on Sunday, go there or leave. PERFECT! It also mentions taking a kayak to collect feathers from eider duck nests and taking care of rainbow trout. Things I don’t know how to do! And She said yes! So I tell Mélanie, who’d known about my last-minute change of mind since the day before—for the umpteenth time, I must admit. A little dilemma: our month of volunteering in Spain had just been sorted, so should we cancel it? Yes! The pull of Iceland and adventure is stronger! Change of plans, then. Normally, we’d continue our route to Montauban for the 400 Coups festival with friends, then stay in the south for the Mantra festival before heading to southern Spain toward Malaga. Now, the migration will be more northward since we’re returning to Rennes Monday morning (after the 400 Coups festival, which we wouldn’t have missed for the world!!) to change our wardrobe. Indeed, the weather won’t be the same between southern Spain and northern Iceland. It was September 12, and we were leaving on the 20th! Because, yes, that same evening, after arriving at our friends’ place and quickly summarizing the situation—even trying to convince one of them to join us—we start looking at bookings.
First thing: flight tickets—which I’d already more or less looked at and knew weren’t that expensive, thanks to low-cost airlines—,
Second thing: train tickets to Paris, and oh, miracle, they’re not expensive at all. 25 € per person one way! What’s happening at SNCF?!
Third thing: accommodation for Saturday night so we could take the bus on Sunday—which I hadn’t looked at and seemed quite pricey for just a bed in a dorm—.
Sometimes, we spend months and months planning a vacation (only to change everything at the last minute… We still remember the trip to Churchill…), and here, in one day, it’s almost done. Welcome to my life. Build, deconstruct, and rebuild. Why don’t I plan ahead? You have the answer. The week in Rennes does us good. Coming back to a familiar place after a month and a half of wandering around France. Resting because we’re accumulating fatigue. I also take the opportunity to have sessions with the few people who contacted me during our August road trip, see some friends, binge on galettes (5 galette meals in 9 meals—I went all out!), and realize we really need to take winter clothes—5°C expected in Iceland—. And boom, Saturday arrives. Like a calm river? Boom ??? No, that would’ve been too simple, too idyllic. Indeed, on Wednesday, a little message from Björn—who’s the intermediary between the volunteer site owner and us—tells us the owner no longer wants to host volunteers, so it’s off for us, and he’s really sorry. And that he can try to see with a friend if they can host us, if we want. What?! Uh, that’s not possible. Me, who changed all the plans at the last minute, how do I tell Mélanie we’ve got nothing left? That’ll teach me to never be satisfied with what I have and to always plan everything at the last minute. Take a breath: after all, the situation isn’t ruined. He has a friend who might host us, and maybe there are other ads I haven’t seen. So I tell him yes, and a few minutes later, he confirms it’s good, his friend is okay to take us starting October 1st, and he’ll host us until September 30th. Phew!!! The plan seems twisted, we still don’t know what we’ll be doing, or with whom, or where, but at least we haven’t thrown money out the airplane windows. After double-checking that I understood everything correctly, after confirming we still need to go to H in northwestern Iceland, it’s good, the clouds are clearing again.

Hello, we’re heading to Iceland in June 2026 with a 4x4.
I’d like to know if Route 60 is doable along its entire length in a 4x4 without having to take the ferry.
Thanks for your help!
christianede
Hi there,
I’m looking to put together a group of 4 people to explore western and southern Iceland. The snow conditions in November (second half of the month) make access to the north and east tricky. Why November? The nighttime conditions (between 9 PM and 2 AM are ideal for spotting the northern lights), there’s still daylight (days run from about 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM—so we’ll need to start the day while it’s still dark), it’s not too cold (between 0 and 5 °C), and prices are more attractive than in late summer or during the December holidays.
I plan to use a provider to handle the logistics of the itinerary, which we’ll need to stick to (see details below). The provider charges 1345 € per person (price based on 2 people, but it’s better to have 4 to lower the cost per person since the vehicle rate is the same for 2, 3, or 4 people). We can tweak the itinerary a bit, but we all know that if we stray too far from the proposed offer, the price can quickly go up. Included:
7 nights in a guesthouse or hotel, twin or double room, shared facilities, and breakfast included. 7 days of rental for a 4-wheel-drive vehicle suited to the group size, unlimited mileage (fuel is on us), CDW insurance, and a second driver option. A road map and detailed itinerary A 24/7 French-speaking assistance service
Base itinerary proposed by the agency... It seems solid, given we’ll be there for 8 days (arrival and departure included). It’s possible to extend (by paying for extra accommodation) depending on your flight departure date. Day 1: Arrival in Iceland From the airport, the Blue Lagoon (optional) for a swim in its warm, turquoise, and milky waters. Then, the drive to Reykjavík, crossing the wild and lunar landscapes of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Explore the Icelandic capital, Reykjavík. Distance: 55 km. Meals: on your own. Accommodation: guesthouse in Reykjavík or the surrounding area.
Day 2: Exploring the west coast around Snæfellsjökull The west coast in the Snæfellsnes region. Cliffs, wild coastlines, and isolated farms in vast open spaces. Around the Snæfellsjökull volcano, the gateway to Jules Verne’s *Journey to the Center of the Earth*, you’ll discover the Djúpalónssandur reefs, the charming little port of Arnarstapi, nestled beneath the glacier, and the ports of the north coast, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur. Distance: 260 km.
Day 3: Borgarfjörður, Reykholt & the Hraunfossar & Barnafoss waterfalls The lovely and unique Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls, before visiting Reykholt, the historic home of Snorri Sturluson, a famous 13th-century writer, poet, and historian. Distance: 160 km. Day 4: The famous Golden Circle The three most famous sites in the country, forming the Golden Circle. First, the Þingvellir tectonic rift, where you can hike or even dive between the two tectonic plates in a stunning, vast lake. Geysir, to see its hot springs and the Strokkur geyser. Finally, the impressive Gullfoss waterfall. You can also relax in one of the hot springs in the area. Distance: 160 km. Day 5: The south coast: Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Dyrhólaey & Vík From the Golden Circle region, the route continues along the south coast. You can stop near two magnificent waterfalls: Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind, and Skógafoss. Head toward Vík, at the foot of Eyjafjallajökull, and the stunning cliffs of Dyrhólaey with its black sand beaches. Distance: 180 km. Day 6: Walk among the icebergs of Jökulsárlón & Vatnajökull Glacier Continuing on Route 1, Jökulsárlón will be your next stop, where you’ll see the glacial lagoon with icebergs breaking off from the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Skaftafell National Park, where you can take a walk, especially around the Svartifoss waterfall. As an option, you can visit a hidden ice cave beneath the glacier. Distance: 250 km. Day 7: Exploring the south coast & return to Reykjavík Return to Reykjavík. Stop in Vík or at the Skógar Folklore Museum, then pass through Hveragerði town center to see the fumaroles and solfataras before heading back to the capital in the late afternoon. Distance: 280 km.
Day 8: Departure from Reykjavík & return flight Take your flight from Keflavík International Airport. If you’d like to explore the capital further, an extra night in Reykjavík is totally doable. Distance: 55 km.
We’d need to lock in dates between November 20 and 30 (I can’t do earlier, and after that, the days get too short, temperatures drop, and prices go up). Ideally, 4 people from my area—I’m in Vendée, so people from neighboring departments in Pays de la Loire, southern Brittany, or northern Nouvelle-Aquitaine would work so we can meet up.
Contact me via PM if you’re *seriously* interested in joining. We’ll need to book soon to keep the option of tweaking the trip (within limits) and to reserve flights early to manage costs (Iceland isn’t cheap for flights or the trip itself) and stick to the travel dates.
Meeting beforehand is key—we’ll need to agree that we’ll be spending 7 days in the same vehicle and sharing a room with one other person, which requires some flexibility and respect for each other. It’s best if everyone’s a little active. You can do your own thing in terms of mobility, but it’s good to get out of the vehicle and walk a bit (more or less, depending on the person). I’m planning optional activities that might be possible, like: - Walking on a glacier - Visiting an ice cave - Winter diving in the Silfra fissure (if possible) - And of course, soaking in hot springs Everyone can decide based on their interests and budget, but we’ll need to be okay with others doing these activities while sharing the same vehicle—obviously, within the limits of the itinerary and timing tied to accommodations.
Pascal
I’m looking to put together a group of 4 people to explore western and southern Iceland. The snow conditions in November (second half of the month) make access to the north and east tricky. Why November? The nighttime conditions (between 9 PM and 2 AM are ideal for spotting the northern lights), there’s still daylight (days run from about 9:30 AM to 5:30 PM—so we’ll need to start the day while it’s still dark), it’s not too cold (between 0 and 5 °C), and prices are more attractive than in late summer or during the December holidays.
I plan to use a provider to handle the logistics of the itinerary, which we’ll need to stick to (see details below). The provider charges 1345 € per person (price based on 2 people, but it’s better to have 4 to lower the cost per person since the vehicle rate is the same for 2, 3, or 4 people). We can tweak the itinerary a bit, but we all know that if we stray too far from the proposed offer, the price can quickly go up. Included:
7 nights in a guesthouse or hotel, twin or double room, shared facilities, and breakfast included. 7 days of rental for a 4-wheel-drive vehicle suited to the group size, unlimited mileage (fuel is on us), CDW insurance, and a second driver option. A road map and detailed itinerary A 24/7 French-speaking assistance service
Base itinerary proposed by the agency... It seems solid, given we’ll be there for 8 days (arrival and departure included). It’s possible to extend (by paying for extra accommodation) depending on your flight departure date. Day 1: Arrival in Iceland From the airport, the Blue Lagoon (optional) for a swim in its warm, turquoise, and milky waters. Then, the drive to Reykjavík, crossing the wild and lunar landscapes of the Reykjanes Peninsula. Explore the Icelandic capital, Reykjavík. Distance: 55 km. Meals: on your own. Accommodation: guesthouse in Reykjavík or the surrounding area.
Day 2: Exploring the west coast around Snæfellsjökull The west coast in the Snæfellsnes region. Cliffs, wild coastlines, and isolated farms in vast open spaces. Around the Snæfellsjökull volcano, the gateway to Jules Verne’s *Journey to the Center of the Earth*, you’ll discover the Djúpalónssandur reefs, the charming little port of Arnarstapi, nestled beneath the glacier, and the ports of the north coast, Grundarfjörður and Stykkishólmur. Distance: 260 km.
Day 3: Borgarfjörður, Reykholt & the Hraunfossar & Barnafoss waterfalls The lovely and unique Hraunfossar and Barnafoss waterfalls, before visiting Reykholt, the historic home of Snorri Sturluson, a famous 13th-century writer, poet, and historian. Distance: 160 km. Day 4: The famous Golden Circle The three most famous sites in the country, forming the Golden Circle. First, the Þingvellir tectonic rift, where you can hike or even dive between the two tectonic plates in a stunning, vast lake. Geysir, to see its hot springs and the Strokkur geyser. Finally, the impressive Gullfoss waterfall. You can also relax in one of the hot springs in the area. Distance: 160 km. Day 5: The south coast: Seljalandsfoss, Skógafoss, Dyrhólaey & Vík From the Golden Circle region, the route continues along the south coast. You can stop near two magnificent waterfalls: Seljalandsfoss, which you can walk behind, and Skógafoss. Head toward Vík, at the foot of Eyjafjallajökull, and the stunning cliffs of Dyrhólaey with its black sand beaches. Distance: 180 km. Day 6: Walk among the icebergs of Jökulsárlón & Vatnajökull Glacier Continuing on Route 1, Jökulsárlón will be your next stop, where you’ll see the glacial lagoon with icebergs breaking off from the Breiðamerkurjökull glacier. Skaftafell National Park, where you can take a walk, especially around the Svartifoss waterfall. As an option, you can visit a hidden ice cave beneath the glacier. Distance: 250 km. Day 7: Exploring the south coast & return to Reykjavík Return to Reykjavík. Stop in Vík or at the Skógar Folklore Museum, then pass through Hveragerði town center to see the fumaroles and solfataras before heading back to the capital in the late afternoon. Distance: 280 km.
Day 8: Departure from Reykjavík & return flight Take your flight from Keflavík International Airport. If you’d like to explore the capital further, an extra night in Reykjavík is totally doable. Distance: 55 km.
We’d need to lock in dates between November 20 and 30 (I can’t do earlier, and after that, the days get too short, temperatures drop, and prices go up). Ideally, 4 people from my area—I’m in Vendée, so people from neighboring departments in Pays de la Loire, southern Brittany, or northern Nouvelle-Aquitaine would work so we can meet up.
Contact me via PM if you’re *seriously* interested in joining. We’ll need to book soon to keep the option of tweaking the trip (within limits) and to reserve flights early to manage costs (Iceland isn’t cheap for flights or the trip itself) and stick to the travel dates.
Meeting beforehand is key—we’ll need to agree that we’ll be spending 7 days in the same vehicle and sharing a room with one other person, which requires some flexibility and respect for each other. It’s best if everyone’s a little active. You can do your own thing in terms of mobility, but it’s good to get out of the vehicle and walk a bit (more or less, depending on the person). I’m planning optional activities that might be possible, like: - Walking on a glacier - Visiting an ice cave - Winter diving in the Silfra fissure (if possible) - And of course, soaking in hot springs Everyone can decide based on their interests and budget, but we’ll need to be okay with others doing these activities while sharing the same vehicle—obviously, within the limits of the itinerary and timing tied to accommodations.
Pascal
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Iceland in August in a van—can we go with summer tires?
Thanks for your replies
Hi there!
I’m planning a trip to Iceland for the first two weeks of September 2025 and I’m looking for travel companions to join me :)
The main reason for the trip: my brother is getting married in Iceland on September 11th to an Icelandic woman. My family will be gathering there for the wedding, and I’d like to take this opportunity to explore part of the country.
I’m looking for travel buddies who’d be up for renting a 4x4, since I’d love to visit remote spots like Landmannalaugar. And also people who enjoy hiking, trekking, and soaking in that incredible nature.
If anyone’s interested, feel free to reach out—I’d love to get to know you!
Hope to hear from you soon :) Mathilde
I’m planning a trip to Iceland for the first two weeks of September 2025 and I’m looking for travel companions to join me :)
The main reason for the trip: my brother is getting married in Iceland on September 11th to an Icelandic woman. My family will be gathering there for the wedding, and I’d like to take this opportunity to explore part of the country.
I’m looking for travel buddies who’d be up for renting a 4x4, since I’d love to visit remote spots like Landmannalaugar. And also people who enjoy hiking, trekking, and soaking in that incredible nature.
If anyone’s interested, feel free to reach out—I’d love to get to know you!
Hope to hear from you soon :) Mathilde
Hello Community!
I’ll be in Iceland from June 26 to July 14 (19 days). The trip is split into two parts: Day 1 to Day 13 as a 4x4 road trip / Day 14 to Day 19 as the Laugavegur Trek. We’ll be in a 4x4 like a Jimny with a roof tent, and for the trek, we’ll be self-sufficient (tent, sleeping mat, etc.).
I’ve tried to put together a summary below. Even though I’ve already used the forum a lot to build this itinerary, I’d love to hear your thoughts: any improvements? additions? priorities? recommended campgrounds?
Thanks in advance for sharing! :)
Looking forward to reading your replies!
Best, Clément
Day 1 (06/26) – Arrival in Reykjavik
Visit Reykjanes Peninsula, Blue Lagoon, pick up vehicle
Day 2 (06/27) – Reykjavik → Gullfoss (~2h)
Hike Mount Esja, Golden Circle: Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss
Day 3 (06/28) – Gullfoss → Vik (~3h30)
Hike Reykjadalur, Seljalandsfoss & Skogafoss waterfalls
Day 4 (06/29) – Vik → Skaftafell / Vatnajökull (~3h)
Fjaðrárgljúfur, hike Svartifoss & Kristinartindar
Day 5 (06/30) – Vatnajökull → Höfn (~2h)
Jökulsárlón, glacier hike (with guide)
Day 6 (07/01) – Höfn → Egilsstaðir (~4h30)
Stokksnes, hike Hengifoss
Day 7 (07/02) – Egilsstaðir → Myvatn (~3h)
Myvatn Nature Baths, Hverfjall, Grjótagjá caves
Day 8 (07/03) – Myvatn → Húsavík (~1h30)
Hike Dettifoss & Selfoss, whale watching
Day 9 (07/04) – Húsavík → Akureyri (~1h30)
Visit Akureyri, hike Súlur
Day 10 (07/05) – Akureyri → Snæfellsnes (~4h30)
Hvítserkur, hike Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Day 11 (07/06) – Snæfellsnes → Borgarnes (~2h)
Snæfellsjökull, Kirkjufell, beaches
Day 12 (07/07) – Borgarnes → Kerlingarfjöll (~3h)
Route to the Highlands, hike colorful mountains
Day 13 (07/08) – Kerlingarfjöll → Landmannalaugar (~3h)
Route via Hveravellir, overnight in Landmannalaugar
Day 14 (07/09) – Laugavegur Trek: Landmannalaugar → Hrafntinnusker (~4-5h hike)
Day 15 (07/10) – Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn (~6-7h hike)
Day 16 (07/11) – Álftavatn → Emstrur (~6-7h hike)
Day 17 (07/12) – Emstrur → Þórsmörk → Reykjavik (~6h hike + return); end of trek
Day 18 (07/13) – Reykjavik / Landmannalaugar (return) Free hikes: Bláhnúkur, Skalli
Day 19 (07/14) – Departure from Iceland
I’ll be in Iceland from June 26 to July 14 (19 days). The trip is split into two parts: Day 1 to Day 13 as a 4x4 road trip / Day 14 to Day 19 as the Laugavegur Trek. We’ll be in a 4x4 like a Jimny with a roof tent, and for the trek, we’ll be self-sufficient (tent, sleeping mat, etc.).
I’ve tried to put together a summary below. Even though I’ve already used the forum a lot to build this itinerary, I’d love to hear your thoughts: any improvements? additions? priorities? recommended campgrounds?
Thanks in advance for sharing! :)
Looking forward to reading your replies!
Best, Clément
Day 1 (06/26) – Arrival in Reykjavik
Visit Reykjanes Peninsula, Blue Lagoon, pick up vehicle
Day 2 (06/27) – Reykjavik → Gullfoss (~2h)
Hike Mount Esja, Golden Circle: Thingvellir, Geysir, Gullfoss
Day 3 (06/28) – Gullfoss → Vik (~3h30)
Hike Reykjadalur, Seljalandsfoss & Skogafoss waterfalls
Day 4 (06/29) – Vik → Skaftafell / Vatnajökull (~3h)
Fjaðrárgljúfur, hike Svartifoss & Kristinartindar
Day 5 (06/30) – Vatnajökull → Höfn (~2h)
Jökulsárlón, glacier hike (with guide)
Day 6 (07/01) – Höfn → Egilsstaðir (~4h30)
Stokksnes, hike Hengifoss
Day 7 (07/02) – Egilsstaðir → Myvatn (~3h)
Myvatn Nature Baths, Hverfjall, Grjótagjá caves
Day 8 (07/03) – Myvatn → Húsavík (~1h30)
Hike Dettifoss & Selfoss, whale watching
Day 9 (07/04) – Húsavík → Akureyri (~1h30)
Visit Akureyri, hike Súlur
Day 10 (07/05) – Akureyri → Snæfellsnes (~4h30)
Hvítserkur, hike Snæfellsnes Peninsula
Day 11 (07/06) – Snæfellsnes → Borgarnes (~2h)
Snæfellsjökull, Kirkjufell, beaches
Day 12 (07/07) – Borgarnes → Kerlingarfjöll (~3h)
Route to the Highlands, hike colorful mountains
Day 13 (07/08) – Kerlingarfjöll → Landmannalaugar (~3h)
Route via Hveravellir, overnight in Landmannalaugar
Day 14 (07/09) – Laugavegur Trek: Landmannalaugar → Hrafntinnusker (~4-5h hike)
Day 15 (07/10) – Hrafntinnusker → Álftavatn (~6-7h hike)
Day 16 (07/11) – Álftavatn → Emstrur (~6-7h hike)
Day 17 (07/12) – Emstrur → Þórsmörk → Reykjavik (~6h hike + return); end of trek
Day 18 (07/13) – Reykjavik / Landmannalaugar (return) Free hikes: Bláhnúkur, Skalli
Day 19 (07/14) – Departure from Iceland
We're torn between a campervan (better in bad weather) and a 4x4 with accommodations, especially since lodging is expensive this summer.
The question: can you still reach off-the-beaten-path spots with a campervan, or are you stuck taking the crowded main roads all the time?
Thanks!
Another question:
For a 10-day trip, what’s the best option—circumnavigating the island, the west, south, or north?
Alaton
Alaton
We stayed in Iceland from August 27 to September 13, 2023. Actually, this was our second trip to the island.
During our first visit, we rented a camper van from Snail Motorhome Rental, a family-run business that provided outstanding service.
Unfortunately, we discovered that this company no longer exists.
So, we rented a camper van through a third party, specifically via the Nordic Travel Group website.
We chose City Car Rental, located near Keflavik Airport, because the rental cost was really appealing.
Apart from the quality of the sleeping bags and the size of the pillows we rented, our experience with this company was very positive.
We noticed a significant increase in tourism since our last trip in 2015.
Several sites have been redeveloped, and parking is now paid in many places.
Accommodations have multiplied, not only near major cities but also in remote areas.
One notable advantage, however, was discovering the wide variety of food products available in supermarkets. In 2015, the selection was very limited.
I invite you to continue reading this travel journal and watch the videos that will let you explore this destination, which has everything to charm outdoor enthusiasts.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
Hlauptungufoss, Midfoss and Bruarfoss Geysir, Blesi and Strokkur Gullfoss Brúarhlöð Canyon Faxafoss Kiðjabergsvöllur – Belvedere Kerið Crater Reykjadalur Valley – Hike to the hot springs Seljalandsfoss Gljúfrabúi Waterfall Seljavallalaug – One of Iceland’s oldest geothermal pools Skógafoss – Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail (partial) Kvernufoss Plane wreck at Solheimasandur Dyrhólaey Peninsula Reynisfjara Beach – Puffins and seals Vík í Mýrdal Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon Skaftafell National Park – Svartifoss, Magnusarfoss & Hundafoss Svínafellsjökull Glacier Hofskirkja Church Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (West) Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (East) Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Litlanefsfoss and Hengifoss Rjúkandi (Rjúkandafoss) Stuðlagil Canyon Selfoss and Dettifoss Krafla – Viti Crater Lake Krafla – Leirhnjúkur Lava Field Hverir Geothermal Site (Námafjall) Hverir – Hverarönd Geothermal Site – Blue Lagoon Grjótagjá – Hot Spring Cave Stóragjá – Hot Spring Cave Goðafoss Akureyri Zipline Hofsós – Pool by the Skagafjörður Fjord Víðimýrarkirkja Church Hvítserkur Rock – The Troll of Northwest Iceland Gislahellir (Gisli's Cave) Dynjandi (Fjallfoss) – One of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls Hellulaug (Natural hot spring pool) Stykkishólmur – Stykkishólmshöfn Port Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Ólafsvík – Bugsfoss Lóndrangar Basalt Columns Arnarstapi Ytri-Tunga Farm – Seal watching Deildartunguhver Hot Spring Hraunfossar & Barnafoss Exploring Reykjavik Reykjavik – Whale Safari – Whale watching Raufarholshellir Lava Tunnel Gígvatnsvatn Lake (Green Lake/Graenevatn) Seltún Geothermal Site (Krýsuvík) Kleifarvatn Lake Blue Lagoon Thermal Spa Gunnuhver Geothermal Site Reykjanes Peninsula – Reykjanesviti Lighthouse Reykjanes Peninsula – Valahnúkamöl – Reykjanestá Ægissíðufoss Super Jeep excursion to Landmannalaugar Hiking in Landmannalaugar Scenery along the way
During our first visit, we rented a camper van from Snail Motorhome Rental, a family-run business that provided outstanding service.
Unfortunately, we discovered that this company no longer exists.
So, we rented a camper van through a third party, specifically via the Nordic Travel Group website.
We chose City Car Rental, located near Keflavik Airport, because the rental cost was really appealing.
Apart from the quality of the sleeping bags and the size of the pillows we rented, our experience with this company was very positive.
We noticed a significant increase in tourism since our last trip in 2015.
Several sites have been redeveloped, and parking is now paid in many places.
Accommodations have multiplied, not only near major cities but also in remote areas.
One notable advantage, however, was discovering the wide variety of food products available in supermarkets. In 2015, the selection was very limited.
I invite you to continue reading this travel journal and watch the videos that will let you explore this destination, which has everything to charm outdoor enthusiasts.
Videos are embedded throughout the summary. Click on the image to start the video.
To jump to a specific post, here are the relevant links:
Hlauptungufoss, Midfoss and Bruarfoss Geysir, Blesi and Strokkur Gullfoss Brúarhlöð Canyon Faxafoss Kiðjabergsvöllur – Belvedere Kerið Crater Reykjadalur Valley – Hike to the hot springs Seljalandsfoss Gljúfrabúi Waterfall Seljavallalaug – One of Iceland’s oldest geothermal pools Skógafoss – Fimmvörðuháls hiking trail (partial) Kvernufoss Plane wreck at Solheimasandur Dyrhólaey Peninsula Reynisfjara Beach – Puffins and seals Vík í Mýrdal Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon Skaftafell National Park – Svartifoss, Magnusarfoss & Hundafoss Svínafellsjökull Glacier Hofskirkja Church Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (West) Fjallsárlón Glacial Lagoon (East) Jökulsárlón Glacial Lagoon Litlanefsfoss and Hengifoss Rjúkandi (Rjúkandafoss) Stuðlagil Canyon Selfoss and Dettifoss Krafla – Viti Crater Lake Krafla – Leirhnjúkur Lava Field Hverir Geothermal Site (Námafjall) Hverir – Hverarönd Geothermal Site – Blue Lagoon Grjótagjá – Hot Spring Cave Stóragjá – Hot Spring Cave Goðafoss Akureyri Zipline Hofsós – Pool by the Skagafjörður Fjord Víðimýrarkirkja Church Hvítserkur Rock – The Troll of Northwest Iceland Gislahellir (Gisli's Cave) Dynjandi (Fjallfoss) – One of Iceland’s most beautiful waterfalls Hellulaug (Natural hot spring pool) Stykkishólmur – Stykkishólmshöfn Port Kirkjufell & Kirkjufellsfoss Ólafsvík – Bugsfoss Lóndrangar Basalt Columns Arnarstapi Ytri-Tunga Farm – Seal watching Deildartunguhver Hot Spring Hraunfossar & Barnafoss Exploring Reykjavik Reykjavik – Whale Safari – Whale watching Raufarholshellir Lava Tunnel Gígvatnsvatn Lake (Green Lake/Graenevatn) Seltún Geothermal Site (Krýsuvík) Kleifarvatn Lake Blue Lagoon Thermal Spa Gunnuhver Geothermal Site Reykjanes Peninsula – Reykjanesviti Lighthouse Reykjanes Peninsula – Valahnúkamöl – Reykjanestá Ægissíðufoss Super Jeep excursion to Landmannalaugar Hiking in Landmannalaugar Scenery along the way
Hi there,
We’re joining an MSC Preziosa cruise in early July from Hamburg via Iceland.
The MSC shore excursions are way overpriced, so we’d like to book through Get Your Guide or Tripadvisor. Even though we’re seasoned travelers, this is our first cruise, and we’re not sure about docking durations, arrival ports, disembarkation times, or how far excursion meeting points are from the ship... It’s a bit tricky to plan visits outside the cruise line’s options while making sure we’re back on board in time.
Any advice?
Thanks for your tips!
Danielle
Hi, I’m looking for information about the cruise currently running from May 29 to June 10, 2025, around Iceland.
The ship didn’t make the scheduled stops—it skipped 2 and stayed a full day off the port of Reykjavik.
The cruise seems to have been completely disrupted.
Could anyone tell me the reasons?
We were planning to go soon, but this situation is making us think twice.
Thanks!
Hi there,
After an 11-day road trip around Iceland in May 2025, I wrote some posts summarizing our itinerary, activities/sightseeing/hikes, our favorite spots, tips, and a detailed breakdown of how much the trip cost us. I hope this helps other travelers looking to explore Iceland:
https://worldseenbymathilde.blogspot.com/2025/05/islande-11-jours-en-van-pour-faire-le.html
Hello,
I’m planning our trip for two weeks in late September to early October. We’ll be renting a car and want to stay in hotels. I understand the weather starts to change and that the choice of places to visit depends on it. So, is it a good idea to book hotels now, or is it better to wait until we’re there? And in that case, is it easy to find hotels? (We’re 75 and 70 years old and really appreciate our comfort now🙂).
I have plenty of other questions and would love your advice. For example, I’ve heard the roads to the Westfjords can be closed, but is the Latrabjarg area doable in October? I’d also like to avoid changing locations every day, so is it a good idea to stay put for 2-3 days and explore the region?
Thanks in advance for your replies! Marie José
I have plenty of other questions and would love your advice. For example, I’ve heard the roads to the Westfjords can be closed, but is the Latrabjarg area doable in October? I’d also like to avoid changing locations every day, so is it a good idea to stay put for 2-3 days and explore the region?
Thanks in advance for your replies! Marie José
Hi,
I’m looking for a tour of Reykjavik with a local from the cruise port at MSC Terminal in June for 4 people—a full city tour with explanations in French.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’ve rented a 4x2 camper van in Iceland from June 8 to 28, 2025, and we’re planning to drive around the whole island.
Do we really need the optional sand/gravel/tire insurance?
Thanks in advance for your tips!!
Iceland cruise on MSC PREZIOSA
I'm looking for excursions to do from the cruise ports of REYKJAVIK, ISAFJORDUR, and AKUREYRI without booking through MSC, thanks
Like many, Iceland has been a real love affair for me for many years now. My first trip was in February 2016, when there were five of us—including our three daughters, who were 1, 6, and 5 at the time. It was a very short stay with just one accommodation north of the capital.
We explored the south, from Vik to Grindavik, and of course, I was left wanting more.
We explored the south, from Vik to Grindavik, and of course, I was left wanting more.










