NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK

Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025

· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.

* * *

I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.

I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.

Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".

Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!

So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:

· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani

It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.

On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.

We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.

We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.

We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.

We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.

In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.

On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.

We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.

The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.

We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!

We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:

· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.

Normally, it’s all downhill…

April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.

We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.

A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!

Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…

Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…

This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.

Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.

April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.

We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.

We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.

A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.

We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…

We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.

April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.

No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.

Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.

We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.

At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!

After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.

Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.

From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.

Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.

April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…

The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.

The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.

Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.

Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.

Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.

First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR

April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.

For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.

This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.

On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.

At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.

We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.

Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.

There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!

* * *

In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.

The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.

De retour d’un premier séjour au Ladakh…je me décide enfin à écrire quelques lignes.

En effet le voyage date déjà de quelques mois, l’été 2019. Mieux vaut tard que jamais…

Beaucoup de montagnards chevronnés sur cette destination (il y a peut être une certaine logique à cela), je dois avouer que je n’entre pas dans cette catégorie… ce qui ne m’empêche pas d’apprécier de grandioses paysages de montagne !! Mes motivations premières pour cette destination étaient donc : la découverte de la région et des ses habitants, bien entendu ; l’Himalaya bien sûr, mais sans forcément penser à faire de grandes marches / de grands escalades ; les monastères bouddhistes, cela va sans dire ; et les routes mythiques, en particulier la route ralliant Leh à Manali qui est bien haut dans ma wish-list depuis un certain nombre d’années…

Avant de rentrer dans le vif du sujet, un grand merci à tous ceux qui ont répondu à mes messages et m’ont aidé à dans ma préparation. Et des very special thanks au grand spécialiste de la destination, Djullé84, qui, m’a grandement aidé dans mon itinéraire, et qui a aussi influé sur le contenu de mon voyage. On en reparlera !

Donc, les grandes lignes de ce voyage ont été : - Leh (inévitablement) et les monastères de la vallée de l’Indus - Le festival de Lamayuru - Le trek de la Markha - Une virée dans la vallée de la Nubra - Le trajet de retour en bus de Leh à Delhi. Pour les déplacements, les transports publics sont privilégiés, autant que possible.

Durée / période : ~3 semaines, fin juin / mi-juillet

Le voyage jusqu'à Leh : vol jusqu’à Delhi sur Lufthansa via Munich (Lufthansa est très concurrentiel vers les destinations asiatiques depuis ma province). Arrivée Delhi peu avant minuit, passage à l’immigration sans problème pour valider mon visa à entrées multiples sur un an obtenu sur internet. Je traîne quelques heures dans l’aéroport puis je m’aperçois qu’il me faut changer de terminal pour prendre mon vol SpiceJet du petit matin. Le terminal 1D est loin, la navette en bus est gratuite en montrant sa carte d’embarquement du vol précédent et sa réservation du vol suivant (à prendre près du pilier 10 accessible par la sortie 4, le monsieur dans la cabane donne le ticket). Heureusement, j’avais été attentif lors de ma réservation et je n’avais pas acheté mon billet avec une CB virtuelle : il faut effectivement montrer la CB avec laquelle on a fait l’achat pour obtenir sa boarding card…(Spicejet) Vol sans histoire, mais… le ciel très couvert ne permet aucun spectacle, c’est une déception car ça aurait pu être pire : le vol n’a pas été annulé… Avion jusqu'à Leh, donc : d'une part en juin, c'est encore tôt dans la saison pour prendre la route ; et d'autre part, la route Delhi-Manali-Leh me paraît très haute pour l'emprunter sans aucune acclimatation, je la réserve pour le retour... Et l'autre possibilité par Amritsar et Srinagar était très tentante, mais d'une part elle exigeait beaucoup de temps, et d'autre part cet itinéraire fait emprunter des trajets qui se situent dans la zone rouge du ministère des affaires étrangères...

Depuis l'aéroport, le taxi pour le centre de Leh coûte 450 Rs (flat price), installation à la GH, réservée sur booking, dans le vieux Leh, entre le terrain de polo et la rue principale.

La 1ère journée se passe au ralenti, sous un ciel couvert, il me faut récupérer du voyage et de la nuit dans l’aéroport de Delhi, et m’acclimater à l’altitude. Premières découvertes de Leh qui au premier abord et sous le ciel gris, n’est pas vraiment enthousiasmante (ça me rassure un peu d’avoir lu quelque part (n’est ce pas, Djullé84) que « chaque journée passée à Leh est une journée de moins passée au Ladakh »…). Ah tous ces toutous en train de roupiller… La première nuit est un peu difficile, mal de tête avec l’altitude… Et les chiens donnent un concert dès le coucher du soleil. Je comprends pourquoi les chiens dormaient dans la journée : à Leh, le chien est un animal nocturne, qui dort le jour et qui passe ses nuits à aboyer… Ah, il y a le chant du muezzin aussi…

Temps pluvieux le matin (et j’apprends qu’il n’y a aucun vol depuis/vers Leh aujourd’hui…), il me faut récupérer des infos pratiques pour organiser la suite du voyage (les jours et heures des bus, en particulier …). Le temps s’arrange, location de scooter l’après midi, je parviens à en obtenir un bien que je n’aie pas pu avoir mon permis de conduire international en temps et en heure. Je vais aller jusqu’à Phyang. Une fois sorti des embouteillages et du bazar de Leh, la ballade permet les premières vues spectaculaires sur les montagnes himalayennes et sur l’Indus. Et les premiers convois militaires à croiser aussi, ils seront omniprésents sur les routes…Et la possibilité de voir de près le 1er monastère ! (mais pas de le visiter à l’heure de mon arrivée) Côté organisation, j’ai pu planifier les choses : dans les prochains jours, ce sera une virée Alchi – Likir – Lamayuru et retour sur Leh : le lendemain je prendrai un premier bus pour Alchi ; mon périple continuera en prenant le bus qui repart pour Leh ; en descendant à la bifurcation pour Likir, je pourrai ensuite monter à pied pour la fin d’après-midi et la nuit à Likir. Le jour suivant je redescendrai à pied à la highway prendre le bus pour Lamayuru, où je resterai deux jours et demi (dont une pleine journée de festival) avant de rentrer en bus pour Leh. J’en repartirai le lendemain pour la vallée de la Markha. Leh sera donc ma plaque tournante, ce qui me permet de m’alléger en demandant à la GH de garder une partie de mes affaires lors de chacune de mes escapades.

(à suivre)

Bonjour, je devais partir en Chine avec mon fils de 22 ans du 1er au 20 avril mais, évidemment, nous nous préparons à annuler (d'autant que c'était dans les régions juste au nord du Hubei). Du coup, nous cherchons à pivoter parce qu'on les attend depuis un moment ces vacances... Nous sommes bien tentés par le Népal. J'ai commencé à regarder les vols, ça semble jouable avec Air India à peu près sur les mêmes dates.

Un gros mois pour tout réorganiser, pas peur...

Sur les formalités, le routard signale qu'on peut télécharger un truc en ligne mais qu'il faut régler à l'arrivée en dollars, le MAE signale qu'on peut aussi passer au consulat. C'est pas très clair de comprendre quelle est la solution la plus facile... Votre avis ?

Concernant le contenu, on est plutôt tournés ambiance, culture, etc. On était au Yunnan l'an dernier et les hautes terres autour de Shangri-Là nous ont bien plût. Nous allons au Sichuan cet été (si...) et nous allons aller aussi sur les contreforts de l'Himalaya. On a fait des marches (20 km) à 3.000m et c'était agréable mais on ne se sent pas à faire une marche de plusieurs jours.

Sur le circuit, si on suppose qu'on arrive le 2 et qu'on repart le 19, ça doit pouvoir faire deux sous-circuits : Un circuit Katmandou-Bandipur Pokhara - Lumbini - Chitwan un circuit dans la vallée de Katmandou (qui semble déjà très riche)

Et, visiblement, coup de bol, on aura l'occasion de vivre le nouvel an ?

Qu'en pensez-vous ?

Hi everyone,

I'm heading to Nepal solo for over 3 weeks at the beginning of March and wanted to get your thoughts on this itinerary:

Mon 03/03: Visit Kathmandu in the afternoon (night in Kathmandu) Tue 04/03: Kathmandu (night in Kathmandu) Wed 05/03: Swayambunath – Pashupatinath (night in Kathmandu) Thu 06/03: Kathmandu in the morning then go to Boudhanath (night in Boudhanath) Fri 07/03: Shechen - Patan (night in Boudhanath) Sat 08/03: Bhaktapur (night in Bhaktapur) Sun 09/03: Changu Narayan (night in Bhaktapur) Mon 10/03: Bhaktapur (night in Bhaktapur) Tue 11/03: Panauti – Namo Buddha (night in Dhulikhel – drop off my bag at the hotel in the morning) Wed 12/03: Dhulikhel (night in Dhulikhel) Thu 13/03: Nagarkot (night in Nagarkot) Fri 14/03: Kathmandu Airport – Flight to Chitwan Park (night in Chitwan) Sat 15/03: Chitwan Park (night in Chitwan) Sun 16/03: Chitwan Park (night in Chitwan) Mon 17/03: Departure to Pokhara (6-hour bus ride) (night in Pokhara) Tue 18/03: Pokhara (Poon Hill trek) Wed 19/03: Pokhara (Poon Hill trek) Thu 20/03: Pokhara (Poon Hill trek) Fri 21/03: Pokhara (Poon Hill trek) Sat 22/03: Pokhara (Paragliding or Sarangkot? Is it possible to do both in one day?)

Sun 23/03: Bandipur (night in Bandipur) Mon 24/03: Kathmandu (night in Kathmandu)

I plan to travel mostly by bus and taxi (for destinations where I can’t take the bus), except for the trip from Kathmandu to Chitwan Park, where I’ll take a flight. Should I book the flight now, or can I do it once I arrive in Nepal? Is a trekking permit required for the hike from Panauti to Namo Buddha Monastery? And is it required for the trek from Dhulikhel to Nagarkot?

Is it better to book the Poon Hill trek in advance through an agency, or is it best to do it independently (without an agency) without a guide or porter? Is it easy to do this trek without getting lost? What’s the typical price for the Poon Hill trek when going through an agency? Is it better to book accommodations for the Poon Hill trek before leaving for Nepal, or can I easily find places to stay on the same day without prior booking? Is it possible to do both the sunrise excursion to Sarangkot and paragliding over the lake in one day (on my fifth and final day there)? Thanks in advance for your help!

Hi everyone, and first of all, I wish you all wonderful travels in 2025! ;)

My partner and I (we're seniors) are leaving at the end of January for a 40-day trip to India, arriving in Cochin and departing from Delhi. After reading lots of travel journals about India, I’ve put together an itinerary, but I’m worried it might be too (very?) packed... Here’s my plan:

5 or 6 days in the backwaters Munnar: 1 or 2 nights? Ideally next: Madurai, Trichy, Tanjore, Kumbakonam, Chidambaram, Pondi, Mahabalipuram (number of nights in each place to be decided if I keep Tamil Nadu) Flight from Chennai to Varanasi Varanasi: 2 or 3 nights Overnight train to Agra Agra: 1 night Drive to Jaipur with a stop in Fatehpur Sikri Jaipur: 3 nights Bundi: 3 nights Drive to Udaipur with a stop in Chittorgarh? Udaipur: 2 nights Drive to Jodhpur with a stop in Ranakpur Jodhpur: 1 night Jaisalmer: 3 nights Flight to Delhi, then back to France.

This all feels *very* packed. We’re thinking of taking taxis between cities fairly often if public transport is too complicated or time-consuming. Do you think this is doable? Otherwise, the alternative would be to spend more time in Kerala (though we’re not really beach people) and skip Tamil Nadu (which I’d hate to do!!) to focus more on the north instead. We’ve never been to India before, and I’m a little worried about feeling overwhelmed with all the city and temple visits. We’re more used to alternating nature and culture. Looking forward to your valuable advice to finalize our itinerary!

Bonjour, destination New Delhi des conseils sur la nourriture du peuples , coutume des expériences de votre séjour. Merci Pour les vaccins ok je me suis renseigné

Bonjour

Pour un prochain voyage en octobre/novembre, j'hésite entre le Sikkim et l'Arunachal Pradesh.

Je suis déjà allé 3 fois au Ladhak et je cherche une destination en Inde qui s'en rapproche au niveau de la majesté des paysages.

En regardant des vidéos et des photos sur le net je ne suis pas émerveillé par la beauté des paysages de ces deux destinations.

Je serais ravi de connaitre vos expériences pour ces deux destinations

Merci !

Bonjour à tous,

Pour les habitués de cette destination, quels conseils auriez vous pour un premier trip de 2 à 3 semaines (j'ose espérer en septembre/octobre) ? je voyage régulièrement en Asie (plus Asie du sud est ou du nord, mais je connais également le sous continent indien que j'ai fait 2 fois) . Avec un budget journalier en moyenne de 50 € (flexible), un trek dans les hauteurs pour 1 semaine max ... J'aime aussi les villes, les monuments .

Merci pour vos suggestions

Hi everyone, for my 6th trip to India, I’ve chosen Ladakh and Zanskar. I’m planning a 15-day itinerary with a driver (one week in Ladakh and one week in Zanskar). I’m looking for info and tips from people who’ve recently traveled to these regions—anything that could help me prepare my route, must-see spots (or not!), accommodation advice, etc. Is it necessary to visit all three main lakes usually included in traditional circuits (Tso Moriri, Pangong, and Tso Kar)? In the Nubra Valley, the Hunder dunes with the camels don’t really tempt me given the mixed reviews... What do you think? Big question about altitude sickness—I’ve read that you should take it easy for a full day before hitting the road. Is that enough, or should I plan an extra day? Is it easy and quick to get the Inner Line Permit for the regions where it’s required? Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hello there! Any hotel or guesthouse you’d recommend in Pondicherry? Arriving on October 5th for up to 15 days.

I'm planning a return trip to India next year, and this time I want to check out what's nice on the way up to Manali. Since the bus rides are really long coming from the plains (Chandigarh or even Delhi), I'm looking for a place to stop along the way (my partner and I). I’ve spotted Kullu, about an hour from Manali, but no matter how much I study the map, I can’t tell if there’s an actual town there. We really don’t want to end up in some isolated hotel that’s only convenient for people traveling with their own transport—definitely not our style. We prefer to drop our bags in a room, freshen up a bit, then wander around streets or alleys with at least a little life.

So, I’m wondering if we’d be better off just skipping Kullu altogether.

What do you think, folks who’ve been there before?

Hi there,

I’ve got a few questions about my upcoming 3.5-week trip to Tamil Nadu and Kerala (January 2025).

On the itinerary, we’re supposed to spend 3 or 4 days in Thanjavur (Tanjore). I thought the location would let us explore the surrounding area, but I’m realizing everything I want to see won’t fit into the schedule! I’d planned: 1 day to arrive from Pondicherry 1 day to go to Darasuram 1 day to go to Tiruchirappalli 1 day to head to Madurai with a stop in Chettinad Basically, we won’t see anything of Thanjavur itself! Should I skip one of the destinations?

In Kerala, after 3 days in Munnar, I’ve planned to spend a few days in Munroe Island since I didn’t get great feedback about Alleppey. I wanted to "wander" through the backwaters. Has anyone been there?

Finally, we’re ending the trip in Cherai. After booking, I realized the beaches seemed unusable (trash, rough sea...) and I’m pretty frustrated about not being able to swim. Unless there’s a better spot nearby?

Thanks for your input!

Bonjour, je recherche une agence de voyage pour un séjour en Inde et Népal, voyage organisé. Quel agence de voyage est recommandée pour ce voyage. Je désire partir en 2021.

Bonjour, Je compte passer 3 jours à Rameswaram la semaine prochaine. Il va y faire très chaud j'imagine. Je ne trouve pas d'hotel avec piscine bien recommandé dans l'ile. Je ne vois que le Hyat, mais bof... Par contre, il y en a juste avant le pont , la zone a l'air balnéaire. Est ce que quelqu'un qui connait peut me dire si c est jouable de loger là et de faire une simple excursion dans l'ile ? Peut être en louant un scooter ? Ou bien faut il vraiment loger dans l ile ? Merci d avance

Bonjour,

nous avons prévu un voyage en Inde du sud cet été (3 semaines en juillet/début août) et nous souhaiterions savoir s'il y a des liaisons en car de Panjim à Hampi (et retour) tous les jours de la semaine et éventuellement le coût. Merci d'avance pour vos réponses

JCE

Bonjour à tous’ fin novembre je serais à Pondicherry et je voudrai faire un stop à Munnar avant d’aller sur Kochi...je peux envisager un stop aussi entre Pondi et Munnar... des idées a’ me communiquer? Je suis plus village que ville en voyage.Quel moyen de transport? Merci de toutes vos suggestions

Bonjour, Nous rentrons du Gujarat où nous nous sommes posées 3 jours à Diu, histoire de profiter un peu de la mer... Pas folichon comme expérience, le regard pesant et malsain des mecs sur la plage, le côté désagréable d'être encerclées une fois dans l'eau (et oui, nous les attirions comme un bout de viande attire les mouches), l'impression d'être en train de faire quelque chose d'interdit alors que nous étions en maillot une pièce et assises sur la plage entourées dans nos paréos... Bref, nous avions prévu les iles ANDAMAN en mars 2020 mais maintenant on s'interroge - Si vous connaissez, dites nous vite comment çà se passe là-bas sur les plages ! A vous lire. Merci d'avance

Bonjour,

Je prépare un voyage en Inde (Rajashtan puis Tamil Nadu) pour cet automne. Grâce aux nombreuses interventions, jJ'ai lu de nombreuses discussions au sujet des précautions à prendre pour voyager tranquille en Inde mais je reste indécis sur deux points : les vaccins et les comportements/tenues à éviter.

Ayant déjà des problèmes de santé, j'hésite à faire certains vaccins notamment l'hépatite A. Certains composants sont contrindiqués pour ce que j'ai déjà, mais mon médecin traitant ne semble pas sensible à la question. Je pensais y aller uniquement en me protégeant au maximum des piqures de moustiques (vêtements + huile répulsive) et en évitant de boire l'eau courante sur place. Est ce que cela vous paraît suffisant ?

Je suis un voyageur novice et j'ai cru comprendre qu'il était sage de répartir son argent et ses affaires au cas où entre différentes personnes au cas où. Est ce vraiment nécessaire ? Avez vous connu des mésaventures ?

Enfin, nous finissons notre séjour en Inde du Sud près de Chennai. Est ce que les coutumes locales sont plus strictes qu'en Inde du Nord ? (interdiction des contacts entre hommes et femmes, wagon non mixte, tenue vestimentaire, ...)

Bonjour, Je prépare mon Xème voyage, (pour janvier/février/mars dans le sud de l'Inde) et comme d'habitude, je cherche entre autre les hotels sur Tripadvisor. Et là depuis 1 mois et demi que je regarde, je suis confrontée pour la 1ère fois à une flambée des prix inimaginable qui m'inquiète un peu. Genre une nuit à 300 ou 400 euros au lieu 25 en temps normal. Je n'ai jamais vu ça sur aucune destination ! La 1ère fois, je me suis dit que c'était un bug du site, mais je vois que cela persiste ! Et même dans les terres, pas seulement en bord de mer. Est ce que je dois m'inquiéter ? Je ne voudrais pas réserver dans des bouibouis : seuls hotels qui restent abordables dans beaucoup de villes. Faut-il vraiment réserver pour cette période ? Merci de votre aide !

Bonjour, Quel est le guide de voyage le plus utile pour le Gujarat svp ? La plupart d'entre eux englobent l'Inde tout entière...

Nous partons fin octobre pour 3 semaine à deux dans cette petite Provence. Tous vos conseils sont les bienvenus. Merci beaucoup

Hi there,

We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.

After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.

Thanks in advance.

Hello,

We’d love some tips and suggestions for a trip to India we’re planning for February 2026:

We’re a couple in our 70s based in Canada (Montreal), and we’re planning a 3-week trip to India in February 2025.

We’re looking for a moderate pace, with comfortable but authentic and immersive accommodations, and good service.

Ideally:

Northern India (Delhi, Agra, Jaipur, Udaipur, Ranthambore) Southern India (Kerala): Cochin, backwaters (cruise), Munnar

Charming or traditional lodgings (haveli, guesthouse, small hotels), comfortable without being luxurious.

Travel by train where possible, and with a private driver for the rest, plus likely a domestic flight.

What do you think?

Hi there, We’re heading to Gujarat at the end of January for a month, traveling by local transport, and I’m currently trying to figure out how to get from PATAN to BHUJ by train or bus. On the IRTC website, I only found overnight trains, which doesn’t work for us. Do you know if there are any daytime buses leaving from Patan or Palanpur? We’re also wondering if there’s a ferry service between Mandvi and Okha. Thanks for your help! Alod

Bonjour je souhaite envoyer de l'argent ( somme modeste )à une amie en Inde et je suis perdu Numéros SWIFT ok ; mais que mettre dans IBAN ?

Urgent

Bonjour à tous,

Cela fait longtemps que je lorgne du côté de l'Inde mais je ne me suis jamais senti prêt ... mais là ce serait peut-être le moment.😊 Après avoir hésité entre le Radjastan et l'Inde du Sud c'est finalement le centre qui a retenu mon attention. Je l'imagine moins touristique et je suis tombé sur des photos d'Ellora qui m'ont énormément plu 🙂.

En cherchant j'ai trouvé un axe, une logique: faire Mumbay - Delhi, avec de multiples arrêts.

Voici ce que cela donnerait, j'ai mis en gras les lieux qui m'inspirent le plus. Mumbay Ellora Ajanta Mandleshwar mandu Sanchi Khajuraho Panna NP pour faire un safari ... avec l'espoir de croiser un tigre Orchhad Gwalior Agra New Delhi (plus pour rejoindre un aéroport international)

Qu'en pensez-vous ? Je dispose de 13/14 jours max. J'aurais bien aimé glisser quelques trajets en train, entre quelles étapes est-ce possible? intéressant ?

Au niveau climat: Octobre, février ou Avril selon vous ?

Comme je ne connais pas du tout, tout autre conseil, renseignement sera le bienvenu

Merci d'avance Max

Bonjour à tous, avec mon copain nous partons pour 15 jours au KERALA du 31 janvier 2019 au 14 janvier 2020.

J'ai quelques questions sur les moyens de TRANSPORT entre chaque ville, nous avons envie d'éviter les chauffeurs privés ( pour une question de budget et aussi avec l'envie de découvrir les transports publics indiens notamment le train). Quels sont vos conseils pour aller d'une ville à l'autre ? Si quelqu'un a une idée des prix avec un chauffeur privé je suis également interessée. Merci d'avance de vos réponses !

1. KOCHI : 2 JOURS (Arrivée le 1er janvier à 3h du matin, nuit dans un hôtel proche aéroport, puis lendemain et nuit du 1er janvier dans un hôtel à Fort Cochin)

Question : Le moyen le plus rapide et moins cher pour rejoindre Varkala semble être le train, mais réserver un billet depuis la France semble impossible.. Pensez-vous qu'il est possible en arrivant à Kochi d'aller à la gare d'Ernakulam et de pouvoir obtenir un billet de train pour Varkala? J'ai lu des post concernant les billets Taktall ouvert 24h à l'avance, est-ce que cela est facile d'en obtenir ? Je souhaite me rendre en gare le 1er janvier et obtenir un billet pour le lendemain .. J'ai peur qu'un trajet en taxi nous coûte bien trop chez vu la distance Kochi-Varkala ...

2. VARKALA : 4 JOURS

Même question pour Varkala pour rejoindre Munroe Island en passant par la gare de Quilon

3. MUNROE ISLAND : 2 JOURS

Même question concernant le trajet en train, ou peut être existe-t-il des bus ? Je n'ai pas réussi à trouver beaucoup d'informations sur les bus est-ce qu'il faut réserver en avance comme les trains ? Ou bien venir le jour même en gare permet d'obtenir un billet de bus pour le jour même ?

4. ALLEPEY : 1 JOUR

On pense faire la liaison en bus d'Allepey à Munnar, avez-vous une ligne de bus à nous conseiller s'il vous plaît ? Afin d'avoir le trajet le plus rapide possible ?

Ou bien pour ce trajet là prendre un chauffeur est recommandé ? J'ai en effet lu certains post qui décrivaient des chauffeurs de bus un peu fou du volant ... Ou bien des bus avec des vitres teintées ... Avez-vous une idée du prix ?

5. MUNNAR : 3 JOURS

Même question mais avec pour trajet Munnar Kochi.

6. KOCHI : 2 JOURS (départ)

>> On hésitait à remplacer les 2 derniers jours à Kochi par 2 jours à Kumily, j'ai lu de nombreux avis mitigés, qu'en est-il en 2019 ? Si nous y allons c'est pour aller dans une cabane dans les bois et profiter de la nature et non participer à toutes les excursions touristiques proposées..

Merci des réponses que vous allez pouvoir m'apporter afin d'organiser au mieux ce premier voyage en Inde !!

Bonjour tout le monde,

Je pars dans le Karnataka cet hiver pour 19 jours et j'aurais besoin de conseils et suggestions pour mon itinéraire.

J'atterris à Bangalore dans la matinée de là je prends un bus Pour Mysore ou je reste 3 nuit afin de visiter la ville et les temples à proximités.

De là, direction Hassan ou autre pour une nuit? En route je m'arrêterai à Melukote et Shravanabelagola ensuite Belur et Halebidu.

Ensuite je ne sais pas si j'iraisdirectement sur Gokarna ou Agonda ou si ça vaut le coup de passer par Madikeri pour une ou deux nuits. Sinon peut être passer par la côte et dormir à Udupi une nuit avant de rejoindre Gokarna ou je resterai une semaine.

Ensuite Hampi pour 3 nuits je partirai tôt le matin des plages comme ça je passerai par Badami et Aihole est ce suffisant ?

Et pour finir je redescends sur Bangalore, en route je ferai un stop à Chitradurga.

A savoir que je prendrai un chauffeur pour les longs trajets afin de ne pas perdre trop de temps, j'aimerais surtout bloquer le début pour que je puisse booker la guesthouse du bord de mer car beaucoup sont déjà complètes.

Voilà qu'en pensez vous?

Hello everyone, we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago. We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir. We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).

Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians. To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...

His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).

We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.

Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €). We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...

I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple. Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.

We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...

I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.

Hi, I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.

What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?

As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?

Thanks for your insights!

Hi everyone! 🙂 My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.

We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).

We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.

Here’s what we’re planning:

- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*

Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.

What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂