Thursday, Oct 23. Left home at 8:25 AM, took the bus from St Cyp to Perpignan, then a BlaBlaBus to Barcelona airport. Last night, a huge storm crossed France, and the bus was an hour late. We finally left at 11 AM. At the Spanish border, we were checked—several Africans were traveling on the bus, and their document verification took quite a while. In the end, everything was in order, and we set off again a good half-hour later.
We finally arrived at Barcelona airport after 2 PM, but no stress since my flight was scheduled for 4:30 PM with Saudia. At check-in, the hostess told me there’d be a 1-hour delay due to bad weather in France and Belgium. In the end, the flight didn’t just have a 1-hour delay but a 5-hour one because of a technical issue. The next flight wouldn’t wait for us. When we arrived in Jeddah, they gave us another ticket for the following day—the flight to Bangkok was scheduled for 11:55 AM. The airline assigned us a room, which was good news since I was exhausted. Friday morning, the flight was still scheduled for 11:55 AM, but the gate wasn’t displayed. It was announced with a 1-hour delay, but that stretched to 4 hours. They handed out drinks and a snack—again, the delay was due to technical problems. In Bangkok, I had a connecting flight to Chiang Rai, where I’d also booked a room—I lost everything.
We finally arrived in Bangkok on Saturday at 4 AM. I had to buy another ticket for a 7 AM flight. The formalities were quick, and my flight went smoothly. A taxi took me to Bus Terminal 1, where I caught a bus leaving at 10 AM, and we arrived at the Thailand-Laos border. I shared a taxi with other travelers, which took us to Houay Xai. The guesthouse I’d booked was right across from the stop—that was great. I exchanged some money and bought a SIM card at the guesthouse. Despite the fatigue, I needed to stretch my legs, so I walked down the street to the temple.
and continued to Fort Carnot, built by the French.
The views of the Mekong are beautiful for a first glimpse of the country.
yum-yum, bon appétit!
At 6:30 PM, I went to dinner at a restaurant across from the guesthouse—a chicken curry with vegetables.
I didn’t linger and went back to bed. I slept well, even if I woke up often.
January 2026
Here we go again for new adventures and the pleasure of sharing them with you here! First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who helped me with the preparations, even with some last-minute improvisations just days before departure. Thanks to Montagnard74, Jojoone1, Songsam, Attila, Dennis2, NadegerFERM, and the authors whose travel journals about Laos inspired me (Montagnard74, Muriel18, Mavietongs...).
In this story, written by Richard and illustrated by me, we’ll tell you about the journey of four friends: Catherine, Richard, Nathalie, and Bruno. A reinvented but overall successful trip, filled with discoveries and surprises, the scents of spices and frangipani flowers, (too) spicy food, sunsets, and... one big mess.
4 years... it’s been so long!!!
What a pleasure to be back on VF and, most of all, to see all the forum members again 🙂
And what a joy to read the travel journals of those travel addicts who were quicker than their own shadow to share their discoveries. Their keyboards and mice must’ve been itching
I’ll admit I’m feeling a bit of that itch too, but I’m way too lazy to dive into the story of our latest trip—last summer in the northwest USA. I’ll probably get to it later, but it might take a while! So, I’m jumping into the short recap of our *way* too short trip to Iceland at the end of April 2024. And even though it’s not the done thing, I’m going to spoil it and start with the conclusion: it was *amazing*!!!
Back in February, on the eve of leaving for a few days’ holiday in Alsace, we started wondering what we could do for Easter break. Scotland and Iceland were the top contenders. The boys are growing up, but they still travel with us often, and they tipped the scales in favor of Iceland. Since we decided a bit late, before booking the flights, I took a quick look at available accommodations. There wasn’t much left, and some were at crazy prices, but I managed to line up a decent itinerary with places that seemed like good value for money. I read travel journals on VF and blogs I could find, picked up bits of info from Facebook groups, and the route quickly took shape—even if I struggled with the place names, mixing them up and forgetting them. The dream could begin...
Bookings
Flight tickets bought directly from Fly Play’s website: 1520 € for the four of us (adult fare), with just two checked bags and one carry-on each. It was the compromise we found to keep costs down while still fitting all the bulky clothes we’d need. Late April isn’t quite winter anymore, but it’s not quite spring either, so we packed for chilly weather.
Fly Play is Icelandair’s low-cost airline. No complaints: check-in was quick, service was efficient, and the flights were on time.
The car. Booked with Golden Circle car rental, a small family-run business with offices just 5 minutes from the airport. I’d read good things about them, and I can confirm everything went smoothly with our Dacia Duster—it wasn’t brand new, but it was reliable and spacious. We paid 463 € for the week, with full insurance included.
The manager picked us up at the airport 10 minutes after I messaged him on WhatsApp to say we’d arrived. For the return trip, since our flight was super early and the agency wasn’t open yet, we agreed to leave the car in the airport parking lot and sent him a photo of the spot so he could find it. Super convenient!
I read *so* many questions on Facebook groups about insurance: *Should I get the max coverage or not? I’ve got a Visa Premier, I’ve never had an accident, it adds 100 €...*
Between sandstorms that can damage the bodywork and skidding off the road due to bad weather (we saw a few cars in ditches!), we decided to go for the rental company’s max insurance to be safe. It was also a requirement for leaving the car in the airport parking lot on our way back, since we couldn’t do the final inspection.
Accommodations were all booked on Booking.com and Hotels.com:
- 2 nights in a cottage at Fossatun Country Hotel, near Borgarnes (we rented the sunset cottage—great spot, with a nice view and separate from the other lodgings)
- 1 night in an apartment at Bakki Hostel and Apartments, in Eyrarbakki (top-notch)
- 1 night in a gorgeous (and pricey!) apartment at Vik Apartments
- 2 nights in a family room at Adventure Hof Hotel (perfect location)
- 1 night at Blue Viking Studio near the airport (meh, but fine for a few hours’ sleep before an early flight)
Total: 1234 €, averaging 176 € per night for 4-person accommodations.
The itinerary
Day 1: Arrival around noon at the airport - Hraunfossar / Night at Fossatun Country Hotel
Day 2: Snæfellsnes Peninsula / Night at Fossatun Country Hotel
Day 3: Bruarfoss - Geysir - Gullfoss - Reykjadalur hot springs / Night in Eyrarbakki
Day 4: Seljalandsfoss and Gljúfrafoss - DC-3 wreck (the one near Seljalandsfoss) - Skógafoss - Kvernufoss - Sólheimajökull (hike to the foot of the glacier) - Dyrhólaey - Reynisfjara Beach / Night in Vík
Day 5: Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon - Vatnajökull (3-hour hike to Svartifoss and Skaftafell) / Night in Hof
Day 6: Múlagljúfur Canyon (2h45 hike) - Fjallsárlón - Jökulsárlón and Diamond Beach - Svínafellsjökull / Night in Hof
Day 7: Drive back - Reykjavik - Sky Lagoon / Night in Keflavík
Day 8: Flight back at 6 AM
That’s the practical side covered.
I’ll leave you with a photo of our trusty steed.
There haven’t been many recent stories about Norway in winter, and since I had trouble finding info on winter hikes, I thought I’d share a little travel journal.
Back in September 2024, while planning our summer 2025 trip to Norway, I joined some Facebook groups dedicated to travel in Scandinavia and started reading travel blogs. Since winter trips were being planned at the time, I came across posts with stunning photos of northern Norway in winter. I’d always pictured monotonous landscapes of pine forests and frozen lakes, so I was pleasantly surprised to see fjords, mountain ranges, and charming colorful cabins—just like in the Lofoten Islands. Turns out, the vast pine forests are more typical of Finnish Lapland. Norway, north of the Arctic Circle, is actually much more diverse.
That was all it took to suggest this destination to my three guys for our winter vacation. After some research, early March seemed ideal—good weather, long enough daylight, and great chances for northern lights. A direct flight from Paris to Tromsø sealed the deal. The only downside? The cost of cars, accommodations, and activities nearly made us back out! Everything except flights is really expensive.
Since our oldest son had an important school deadline in June, he decided to skip the trip, so we ended up going as a trio.
We took a Transavia round-trip flight from Orly to Tromsø for an amazing trip from March 1st to 8th.
This summer, we spent 3 weeks in northern Colombia. A vibrant trip that complemented our southern Peru adventure from the previous year perfectly.
Two neighboring countries, but completely different.
To start, we had to make a choice because the country is vast.
So we focused on 3 different regions for our 3 weeks:
- Week 1: Bogotá and the colonial villages (Villa de Leyva, Barichara)
- Week 2: Medellín and the Coffee Region
- Week 3: the Caribbean coast
We entrusted the organization to a small local agency that handled accommodations, guides, and transportation.
Transportation is key. The country is large, the road network isn’t very efficient, and we spent a lot of time traveling (cars, planes, and boats...), but it was the price to pay to explore it.
The overall budget isn’t exactly "backpacker" level.
We spent 7,500 € (excluding Air France) for our 3-week stay (hotels, drivers, guides, flights, visits, meals).
But we treated ourselves to nice accommodations—you’ll see as we share more posts.
For vacations, I try to follow Philippe Noiret’s motto: "Travel is short. Let’s try to do it first class."
Organisation du voyage
Nous partons à 2 ma compagne et moi fin septembre pour un séjour d’une semaine aux Canaries sur l’ile de Lanzarote, nous avons choisi plutôt cette ile qui n’est pas la plus fréquentée pour son coté volcanique et ses nombreuses balades variées.
J’ai réservé via le site internet Expédia l’hébergement à l’hôtel, la location de la voiture et les billets d’avion Ryanair au départ de Marseille, c’est la seule solution pour avoir un vol direct Pour faciliter les déplacements pendant le séjour j’ai choisi parmi le grand choix proposé sur le site un hôtel situé au milieu de l’ile, il s’agit d’un hôtel de la chaine Barcelo et plus particulièrement à Teguise Beach l’établissement : « Barceló Teguise Beach Adults Only » qui s’avérera être un très bon choix. Séjour
Dimanche 21 Septembre- Lundi 22
Départ
Il est14h15, nous sommes à la gare TGV d'Avignon, Danielle est venue nous chercher plus tôt étant donné la météo. Orages et déluge jusqu'a la gare TGV. Le TGV était à l'heure, juste 30minutes pour arriver à Marseille saint Charles. L'accès à la navette vers l’aéroport est rapide et pratique juste derrière la gare.
Le car part pour l'aéroport sous l'orage et un déluge, les routes sont inondées et les voitures ne peuvent pas passer à certains endroits.
On à le temps d'étre bien trempé pour rejoindre le terminal. 2 h d'attente avant le vol. Finalement l'avion décolle à minuit et peu de temps avant l'arrivée le pilote nous annonce que l'aéroport d'arrivée est fermé et que nous sommes déroutés à Tenerife et que la compagnie nous réacheminera à destination dès que possible.
Il faudra attendre 2H et Ryanair nous a gracieusement offert un bon d'achat de 4€.
Nous réembarquons vers 5H15 et décollage à 6H. Environ 45mn pour rejoindre Lanzarote. Une fois les valises récupérées on s'occupe de la location de voiture. Le guichet dans le terminal est fermé et il est indiqué de se rendre au parking P4, on a un peu de mal à le trouver.
Je crains un peu la réponse du loueur car la voiture devait être retirée 7H plus tôt, mais ça ne pose pas de probléme. Une dame à coté de nous est furieuse car elle est dans la même situation et on lui a annulé sa location. Anne-Marie fait la traductrice pour elle au niveau de l'agence, mais rien n'y fait.
On récupère une Toyota Aigo neuve et on se dirige ensuite vers l'hôtel.
Une fois les formalités remplies on traverse le jardin en longeant la vaste piscine pour rejoindre la chambre.
Une jolie chambre au 1er étage équipée d'un bain à remous avec vue sur mer.
Il est tôt , nous allons ensuite prendre le petit déjeuner, un buffet généreusement garni et diversifié ou l'on peut trouver tout ce que l'on souhaite.
Ensuite nous prenons la voiture pour rejoindre le site Cueva de los Verdes mais il y a beaucoup de monde et d'attente. Nous y reviendrons un autre jour.
Nous allons ensuite au Mirador Del Rio. Ce mirador rocheux à une extrémité de l'ile avec des a pics vertigineux qui tombent dans l'océan d'une hauteur de 500m, la vue est grandiose et impressionnante.
Un bar panoramique permet de se rafraîchir en profitant du décor.
Retour à l'hôtel ensuite pour une petite balade dans le quartier et profiter de la belle piscine à la température d'eau agréable. Moment détente, transat, piscine.
Le soir buffet trés varié au restaurant. Ensuite coché tôt pour récupérer de la nuit précédente sans sommeil.
Mardi 23
Après une bonne nuit réparatrice, buffet petit déjeuner très varié et copieux, l’installation en terrasse est bien agréable. Ensuite nous prenons la direction d’une route intérieure qui nous mène au parc national des volcans de Timanfaya.
La route près du parc longe des vignobles ou les pieds sont entourés de murets en pierre de lave qui les protègent des vents dominants.
Un premier arrêt au centre de visites ou l’activité volcanique de l’ile est très documentée. Ensuite arrêt à une aire ou il est possible de faire une petite balade à dos de chameau, 2 sièges de part et d’autre de sa bosse sont installés. Cette petite balade offre une belle vue sur ce décors volcanique en prenant de la hauteur. Prix correct de 11€ par place pour 20minutes de promenade.
Nous rejoignons ensuite l’entrée du parc en passant par la voie qui mène au parking d’où partent les bus seul habilités à emprunter le parcours sinueux à l’intérieur du parc.
Beaucoup de monde et environ 45 minutes et plusieurs arrêts avant d’atteindre le parking.
Ensuite nous prenons le car et le parcours offre de très jolies vues sur cette zone volcanique et ses nombreux cratères. Le parcours est très intéressant avec plusieurs arrêts du car pour prendre des photos.
Sur la zone du parking un guide nous montre la chaleur des pierres sous le sol qui permet d’enflammer de la végétation sèche, de méme l’eau versée dans les trous creusés dans le sol provoque immédiatement un geyser et des jets de vapeur.
Le bâtiment à coté du parking offre un espace restauration ou la viande est cuite par la chaleur d’un puit creusé dans la roche volcanique.
En repartant nous allons jusqu'à la commune de Playa Blanca, une commune du bord de mer qui offre une petite plage de sable.
Ensuite retour à l’hôtel en fin d’après-midi et repas du soir.
Mercredi 24
Lever assez tôt et petit déjeuner matinal, peu de monde à cette heure, nous avons réservé il y a 2 jours la visite à 10H de Los Verdes, des tunnels de lave créés par l’éruption et les coulées de lave jusqu'à la cote des fleuves de lave du volcan La Corona.
Au contact de l’air la lave s’est solidifiée en surface et a continué à s’écouler en dessous, les tunnels de lave vont jusqu’au volcan à 8 kilomètres, mais on ne parcourt qu’un kilomètre.
L’intérieur de ce tunnel est impressionnant avec des passages étroits et des salles plus vastes.
On remarque les traces laissées par l’écoulement de la lave liquide des couleurs variées et des formes tourmentées.
A l’extrémité du parcours une vaste salle a été aménagée en salle de concert à l’acoustique parfaite.
Ensuite nous allons sur le site de Jameo Del Agua.
C’est la continuité du tunnel de lave aménagé par Manrique.
Des espaces bar, restaurant joliment aménagés et un lac souterrain ou l’on peut voir de petits crabes blancs aveugles, une espèce protégée dans cette eau très pure.
En allant plus haut un bel espace avec un joli bassin au centre qui peut faire office de piscine et des cheminements autour très joliment aménagés d’un blanc pur qui contraste avec le bleu de l’eau de ce bassin.
En poursuivant on accède à un vaste espace dans le tunnel de lave aménagé en grande salle de spectacle avec aussi une acoustique parfaite.
Des escaliers permettent de découvrir ce bel espace d’en haut. Une trouée dans ce décor de lave avec l’océan à l’horizon.
Nous repartons vers le village de Yé, ici nous sommes au pied du volcan La Corona.
A 160m de l’église un chemin qui traverse les parcelles de vignes s’élève ensuite vers le haut du cratère du volcan que l’on atteint en 30 minutes environ. Il s’agit du plus haut volcan de l’ile.
Arrivé au bord du cratère on constate la grande profondeur de celui-ci et la pente très raide de l’intérieur du cratère qui forme une grande ouverture circulaire. L’endroit est grandiose et impressionnant.
Retour à la voiture et à l’hôtel par une route qui s’élève rapidement et offre une très belle vue sur le nord de l’ile.
Jeudi 25
Après le petit-déj toujours agréable et varié nous partons en direction du centre de l’ile au parc des volcan set nous nous arrêtons à un parking en bord de route d’où part un chemin en direction du volcan Montana Cuervo.
Il s’agit d’un cratère ouvert sur le côté. Lors d’une éruption une explosion s’est produite, ouvrant une brèche dans le cratère.
Des énormes blocs de roche ont été projetés à plusieurs dizaines de mètres. Le chemin passe par la brèche et descend dans le cratère et permet de faire le tour de celui-ci. C’est impressionnant et l’on se sent vraiment petit et fragile dans cet univers.
Les parois du cratère de différentes couleurs mettent en valeur les blocs de roche. Ce cratère est entouré d’une mer de lave avec une roche aux formes acérées et coupantes.
On peut faire le tour extérieur du cratère mais ça n’a pas un grand intérêt. Nous rejoignons ensuite la côte ouest en s’arrêtant à un endroit où se trouve un petit lac vert à côté d’une belle plage de sable noir.
Ensuite un arrêt à Salinas de Janubio, un joli point de vue sur les marais salants avec différentes couleurs d’eau. Une petite boutique offre divers produits sur place.
Ensuite nous prenons la direction de la célèbre plage de Papagayo.
La route s’arrête et on arrive à une guérite qui réclame 3€ pour continuer.
A partir d’ici le terrain est privé et il faut payer pour emprunter une longue piste caillouteuse en terre de 3 Kilomètres.
Pas mal de voitures y circulent soulevant des nuages de poussière. La voiture est repeinte couleur poussière.
On arrive à un vaste espace de stationnement, plusieurs chemins mènent à des petites plages différentes.
Nous allons à Papagayo, une petite plage de sable blond entourée de roches rouge.
La plage est en pente douce et descend lentement dans l’eau. La température de l’eau est bonne et le cadre sympathique et paisible.
Nous restons un moment avant de repartir en direction de l’hôtel.
Vendredi 26
Nous commençons par la visite de la fondation César Manrique à Tahiche. C’ était à l’origine une de ses demeures. La construction est moderne sur plusieurs niveaux et intégrée à la coulée de lave autour en utilisant les trouées pour constituer des espaces de vie. De larges baies vitrées donnent des pièces lumineuses et ouvertes sur le décor. L’endroit est agréable avec les jardins extérieurs fleuris. L’endroit mérite une visite.
Ensuite nous prenons la route jusqu'à Las Grietas, un chemin conduit à une faille dans la roche volcanique qui forme un défilé étroit ou seule une personne peut passer à la fois.
Ce défilé n’est pas très long et la progression est lente à cause des interminables selfies réalisés ici.
Ensuite nous nous arrêtons à la Casa Del Camposino, une ferme rénovée qui accueille plusieurs boutiques d’artisans.
Nous y goutons un vin local conseillé par une charmante dame et lui achetons sur ses conseils 2 bouteilles de vin rouge de Lanzarote.
Direction maintenant la plage de Tamara, une belle et large plage au pied de hautes falaises. Ici il y a toujours de belles vagues et c’est la plage des surfeurs.
Sur la route u retour vers l’hôtel nous nous arrêtons au jardin de cactus, c’est la derniére création de César Manrique créé avec un grand sens de l’esthétique autour d’un ancien moulin à vent il présente 4500 variétés de cactus aux formes diverses dans un très bel espace.
Retour en fin d’après-midi à l’hôtel et soirée.
Samedi 27
Le matin après le petit déjeuner toujours copieux nous prenons la direction du nord de l’ile vers Haria. Nous découvrons par hasard une autre maison de César Manrique ou il a longtemps vécu. Cette maison est plus classique que la précédente, mais toujours de vastes pièces et une installation moderne très agréable. Au fond du jardin son vaste atelier, lieu où il réalisait ses œuvres.
Ensuite nous allons au marché artisanal, on était venu pour ça initialement. Divers stands proposant des articles locaux, beaucoup de monde à ce marché. Pas de place aux terrasses des cafés pour s’installer.
Ensuite nous retournons à la plage de Famara pour un long moment, toujours de belles vagues pour le plaisir des surfeurs. La température de l’eau est agréable et nous en profitons.
Retour à l’hôtel mais avant arrêt à une station pour refaire le plein de la voiture qui à été très économique, d’autant plus que l’essence est beaucoup moins chère qu’en France 1,16€ le litre de sp95.
Lavage de la voiture aussi qui était très poussiéreuse après la longue piste en terre pour accéder à la plage de Papagayo.
A l’hôtel cocktail du dernier soir avant le repas.
Dimanche 28
Matinée à l’hôtel au bord de la piscine avant de libérer la chambre à 12H. Nous allons pour le déjeuner à un restaurant « Dona Lola » proche de l’hôtel avec une terrasse offrant la vue la cote. Nous prenons un carpaccio de thon qui est très bon.
Direction l’aéroport ensuite situé à 15 minutes de route.
Nous restituons la voiture et rejoignons l’aéroport.
Une longue queue pour enregistrer les bagages.
Le vol retour est à l’heure.
Navette bus jusqu'à la gare Saint Charles.
Ensuite nous rejoignons la location pour la nuit. Le boulevard descend, c’est plus facile avec les valises.
La location est située entre le vieux port et la gare.
Une fois sur place nous récupérons les clés et dernier effort il faut monter les bagages au 3éme étage.
Le studio est sympathique, propre avec un équipement simple qui suffit pour une nuit.
The goal was to get some fresh air, walk at a relaxed pace (80 km in 6 days), and visit friends.
Transavia flight: No issues
YorCar rental: No issues (and cheap)
B&B 1: Quinta do Mocho Turismo Rural in Estoy: Good, even if a bit remote
B&B 2: Casa Luma B&B in Lagos: Disappointed (and really disappointed with room #3)
Day 1: Flight, rental car, stop at São Lourenço in Almancil, and visit to Loulé
Day 2: Olhão, walk at Praia do Barril, Tavira, and evening in Faro’s old town (park at São Francisco parking lot)
Day 3: Walk on the boardwalks at Quinto do Ludo, Falesia beaches, Carvoeiro
Day 4: The boardwalks in Alvor, Praia da Rocha in Portimão, Ferragudo, and the boardwalks around Algar Seco
Day 5: Ponta da Piedade in Lagos, walk to Praia de Luz from Praia Camilho
Day 6: Burgau, Cape Sagres, Cape St. Vincent, Carrapateira, and Praia da Bordeira
Day 7: "Sete Vales Suspensos" hike from Marinha Beach
Our highlights:
- The Vincentine Coast (Carrapateira), much nicer than the concrete of the southern coast
- The fish restaurants and Cataplana (A Barrigada in Lagos, Ribeira do Poço in Vila do Bispo...)
- The boardwalks everywhere (Quinto do Ludo, Alvor, Algar Seco...)
- The sun on the cliffs and Falesia Beach (it’s the local Bryce Canyon)
- Chatting with the fishermen perched on the cliffs of Carrapateira
- The weather (we were lucky for early March)
Our disappointments:
- The towns and villages (Tavira and Lagos stand out)
- The traffic off the highway
- The English, the English, and more English everywhere
Why not Malta? We thought it was an original, off-the-beaten-path destination...
The advantage is there’s a direct flight from Toulouse, our departure city. That’s what convinced us to take a week-long couple’s trip to Malta.
I had booked the accommodations (breakfast included) + an airport/hotel transfer on Booking.
First stop: VILLA DEL PORTO, a very pleasant guest house in a great location. We were welcomed by the owner, who gave us all the info we needed to get around. How to get to Valletta? By ferry shuttle. Valletta Ferry Service - Cospicua.
And for everything else, a brilliant app for the buses that crisscross the island: TALLINJA. I highly recommend this app. We traveled by bus all week without any issues.
The next day, we spent the day in Valletta, the capital. That’s when we realized this destination is actually very popular—streets packed with thousands of tourists! Luckily, we managed to navigate through parallel alleys and find small hostels or bars to eat or grab a drink. The city is stunning and steeped in history.
On the third day, we took the bus to the south of the island: MARSAXLOKK. A charming, authentic fishing port with plenty of waterfront restaurants and souvenir shops. We ate at CAFÉ DE PARIS—a delicious fresh fish, perfectly prepared.
On the way back, we wandered through the beautiful town of Senglea. Then we ordered takeout from D VIRI'S TAKE AWAY near the guest house via email. It was delicious!
On the fourth day, we left Villa del Porto and headed to Valletta by ferry to catch the GOZO FAST FERRY—a 45-minute catamaran ride to the island of Gozo.
After a good lunch by the port, we took the bus to our destination: XLENDI.
A village at the end of a gorgeous bay. We stayed at the San Andrea Hotel—a small room with a balcony and sea view.
Fifth day: Bus to Victoria. A magnificent citadel, a meal at a small bar in Piazza San Frangisk, then we continued by bus to the north, stopping in Marsalforn for coffee by the sea and a short walk to the natural salt pans carved into the rock. Back to the hotel by bus.
Sixth day: A short walk to Xlendi Tower, a watchtower at the entrance of the bay, beautifully restored. Then we set off on a sea excursion in a small boat for six passengers. Honestly, I recommend it! Two hours cruising along the breathtaking coastline and turquoise sea—20 € per person. www.gozoboathire.com
Delicious lunch on the terrace at "The Boathouse Restaurant."
Seventh day: We packed our bags again and returned to Malta by ferry to Cirkewwa. The terminal isn’t very welcoming—you have to take a bus to find a town.
We had lunch in Mellieha, then continued our journey, still using local buses, to RABAT, next to the ancient fortified city of MDINA. Another stunning city we explored at our own pace once the tourists had left.
Eighth day: Bus to the airport.
In conclusion, we’re thrilled with our trip. Of course, we didn’t see all the sites recommended by guidebooks, but we wandered at our own rhythm and came back with a head full of memories, images, and great moments spent in Malta and Gozo.
Villa Del Porto
Address: Marina Street 1, KKR 1521 Kalkara, Malta
Phone: +356 2166 8420
GPS Coordinates: N 035° 53.399, E 14° 31.557
Friday, April 18
Night in Guwahati
Before leaving the guesthouse, I drop off a small bag that I’ll pick up when I return.
I take a tuk-tuk at 7:40 AM to get to the sumo departure point for Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya.
My bag is loaded onto the roof, my seat is assigned, and we have to wait for the car to fill up.
While waiting, I watch the street come to life. I have fun photographing the different modes of transport passing by.
Time passes faster when you’re occupied.
We leave at 8:20 AM, and the driver does door-to-door service along the way. We make our first stop for 25 minutes at 9:10 AM, then another for breakfast at 10:10 AM. The scenery is very different from Assam and Nagaland. We drive alongside a pine forest and a large lake. There are beautiful viewpoints, but the driver isn’t stopping for sightseeing, so I have to settle for looking through the car windows.
We finally arrive in Shillong at 11:45 AM. The driver stops in the middle of nowhere, so I have to walk up the street to find a taxi. I flag one down, and he agrees to take me to my new guesthouse, the Rockski Boutique Bed & Breakfast. No sooner do I arrive than a storm with a heavy downpour welcomes me.
When I arrived in Guwahati at the end of October, I’d booked a guide with a car for this week. There’s no public transport to get from village to village, so I had to take a car to visit.
The tourism manager, Sachin, sent me a message to let me know that the driver, Welbis, will pick me up tomorrow morning at 8 AM.
The temperature is much cooler here—only 19°C.
At 2:30 PM, the rain stops, and I take the opportunity to explore the city. I start with the cathedral. Today is Good Friday, so I’m going to see how it’s celebrated here. Meghalaya is a Catholic state. The cathedral isn’t far from the guesthouse—it’s huge and all blue.
I arrive during mass, and it’s impossible to enter—the faithful are numerous outside in the parking lot. Giant screens broadcast the ceremony.
Some of you have mentioned missing the activity on this Indian "page," so let’s try to liven things up a bit—with joy and good vibes (mandatory with me 😜). Plus, it’ll make Jojoone happy 😊.
As big lovers of India—we’ve been six times—my co-traveler husband and I decided to explore Rajasthan this time around. The reason we waited so long to come here? We were dreading the tourist crowds in this state. But thanks to the timing (late March to early April 2024, which is starting to get pretty hot) and Aleph’s great tips, we were *very* far from mass tourism.
We spent three weeks getting around on our own for transport: mostly taxis and trains.
And I’ll admit, we had a rather "Arabian Nights" experience, far from the "real" India (Marien, if you’re reading this 😉). So this travel journal makes no claims other than to share what we saw, experienced, and felt—with all our ignorance about this country (which I’m fully aware of).
But fair warning: I go overboard with emojis, and this journal is super casual because it’s the one I share, almost in "live" mode, with our loved ones.
So, if you’re here, consider yourself almost part of the family 😄.
Just back from a week on Nosy Boraha, better known as Île Sainte-Marie. Mostly on Île aux Nattes, actually, at the very south of the island—literally just a few hundred meters from Sainte-Marie’s airport. Far east of Madagascar, and if you keep going straight, you’ll hit Australia.
We flew in through that airport to avoid a long, rough road trip before and after Tamatave, plus a boat ride that could be short or long (boat time was inversely proportional to the bus ride to the port for the Sainte-Marie ferry). No issues with Tsaradia—departures and returns were on time, service was impeccable, and the ATR plane was smooth. Too bad the prices are so high. We managed a change due to a delayed Kenya Airways flight.
First, we stayed in the northern half, on the west coast of the island, at Natiora Green Lodge. The place is absolutely stunning—a little cove opening onto a small bay dotted with rocky outcrops under lush vegetation. The bungalows are practically on the beach, in a gorgeous, forested setting alive with birdsong. It’s the perfect spot for a pirate crew and just begs for daydreaming. No reef barrier, so it gets deep pretty quickly, but the rocks have healthy coral and plenty of small fish. Great snorkeling—we even saw a turtle. Really, really nice. The only downside is that it’s a bit far from the island’s center and kinda isolated, so eating anywhere but the hotel or going for a walk without a rental car or tuk-tuk is tricky. Not impossible, but harder than if you’re somewhere livelier.
Next, we moved to Île aux Nattes at Baboo Village, which overlooks the channel between Nosy Boraha and Nosy Nato. The bungalows are right on the water, nicely and simply decorated, with a restaurant and terrace right next door. You get to the hotel directly by pirogue from Sainte-Marie’s "embarcadère"—it takes 2-3 minutes, or a little longer if the motor’s acting up. The owner is super friendly and welcoming, with a relaxed, "family/friendly" vibe. There are often a few lemurs in the hotel’s park, adding life to the place, and the vegetation is beautiful once again. The path that circles the island starts right at the hotel entrance, making it easy to reach the island’s dock and the different beaches on the west, east, or even south. Several restaurants are within walking distance, and nothing’s far by pirogue anyway. You can also find the island’s "center" with a few small shops for basic supplies or a meal at a hotely. Since there’s no electricity on the island, the generator at the hotel runs from 6 PM to 10 PM, but you can charge your phone anytime by leaving it at reception. Kayaks are free to use and great for exploring—the whole island is doable, even if you’re not an expert. Just take your time. The upside of Île aux Nattes and Sainte-Marie’s east coast is the reef barrier and lagoon (unlike the west side), which means those gorgeous water colors, accessible coral, and shallow swimming spots. The only downside of Baboo for me, since I love snorkeling, is its location right on the channel. Personally, I prefer the south side of Île aux Nattes (near the Aurora) or the east side (like Kintana) for the lagoon views and easier snorkeling (though my wife didn’t agree). But as I said, those spots are still super easy to reach from Baboo. The west side’s okay, but I like it less—except for the view of Madagascar and the sunset. Again, totally subjective.
On Sainte-Marie, we didn’t try any restaurants other than Natiora’s. Not a ton of options, but it was fine. We weren’t fans of Chez Nono in Baie d’Ampanihy—overpriced for the tiny portions. Sure, the crab was good, but there was so little of it for the price. A bit of a rip-off, since crabs are everywhere and can’t cost much for Nono.
On Île aux Nattes, there are plenty of little restaurants. We tried three—Chez Adelaide, La Buvette, and Coco Sud—and every time, we had fish or seafood, and it was always good and generous, with great achards. Prices were very reasonable.
Of course, we soaked up the time, the light, the beauty of the place, the sounds, the smells... just chilling in full *tranquillou billou* mode.
We also did some activities. Snorkeling—I’ll come back to it. In 2019, I thought it was a disaster, with no nice spots and really disappointing. This year, I jumped in everywhere I could and tested spots I’d spotted on Maps or during my last trip. And it was *really* good. Mostly on Île aux Nattes: the south side near the sacred islet, west in front of Kintana, west north of the channel (especially the sand islets), and on Sainte-Marie at Natiora’s rocks. Lots of healthy coral and plenty of fish typical of the area. If you’re into big fish, this isn’t the place, but if you love coral and little critters, it’s awesome. Snorkeling outside the reef was disappointing again, and diving was too. Unless you get lucky, it’s not worth it, in my opinion.
The tour of Île aux Nattes with a meal included was great—perfect for taking breaks whenever you find a pretty spot to snorkel or just relax on a nice beach.
A trip to the sand islets was also really fun. You can’t stay long because it gets super hot, and you’re at the mercy of the tides. There’s a good flock of terns that probably nest there. The coral reefs on the east side of the islet are gorgeous. Really, really nice. Plus, the islets themselves are just stunning.
We chose to go to Ampanihy via the lagoon, hugging the shore—it’s beautiful, with amazing colors, a wilder coastline than the west, and views of seaweed farms. It’s a long trip, though, and at Ampanihy, there’s a pretty beach (but there are tons elsewhere) and a nice mangrove. Maybe it’s better to go by road to the bay and take a boat to explore the lagoon and stop somewhere without going all the way to Ampanihy, saving yourself 2 hours of boat time round-trip. Once there, you can take a little pirogue tour to the beach and through the mangrove. The way we did it, the trip wasn’t essential. As I said, Chez Nono was disappointing—bring a picnic or try Chez Samson instead.
Of course, we visited the pirate cemetery, a place I love even though there’s not much left to see—just a few graves, unfortunately, and some vandalism. The site is still magical, though, and you can let your thoughts drift with La Buse and William Kidd, who passed through here.
We organized all our outings with Crépin, who runs two small boats with his brother. We met him totally by chance, but we don’t regret it. We could adjust the trips based on what we wanted—where to stop or which spot to visit next—and Crépin handled the meals. Prices were super affordable for a full day. I can share his number if you want. We didn’t try anyone else, but I’m sure there are other great operators—I just can’t compare or recommend.
Good prep for anyone looking for an alternative to Nosy Be. Way fewer activities, sure, but also way fewer people and a really nice vibe on Sainte-Marie in general, and Île aux Nattes in particular. The beaches are more beautiful than Nosy Be’s, and there’s a reef and lagoon (it *is* the pirate island, after all). And in whale season, well, the whales.
This was my first trip back to Japan since the COVID lockdown. Between 2017 (with a short visit in 2018) and 2024, a lot has unfortunately changed. Economic and demographic shifts have led—and will continue to lead—to the closure of many rural railway lines. Fewer residents, fewer travelers, rising operating costs, staffing shortages, and increasingly precarious funding. Then there’s the ever-growing number of tourists who damage everything in their path and frustrate locals. Fortunately, there are still plenty of ways to escape the crowds, even if you do run into groups of Chinese tourists arriving by bus at the Mino Railway Museum or aboard a Kiha 120 crossing the Izumo-Sakane switchback. (Oops, spoiler alert—that’s for my 2025 travel journal.) We’ll see if PM Takaichi has as much success on the ground as he does in his speeches.
I’m lucky to love remote regions and places most tourists don’t know about. Taking public transport—mostly trains—and living like the locals do. That’s what my trips are all about. Those who’ve followed me on these pages know I love trains, especially older ones. These are becoming rarer in regular service, and Japan still isn’t ready to allow even certified museums to run historic trains on public lines, unlike many other countries. I even have my own license to drive historic trams, despite being an IT specialist in my day job. You’ll find some comments that clearly reflect my opinions and experience with the operation and rolling stock of certain lines—sometimes positive, sometimes not.
My trips are always intense. This isn’t about relaxing. It’s about discovering, blending in with locals, being welcomed by associations and museums, and uncovering things most people wouldn’t even imagine exist halfway across the world.
After five trips to the American West, we had planned to switch countries and continents to visit Turkey. However, by the time we made up our minds, flight ticket prices had nearly doubled, reaching 400 € for a round-trip ticket. A bit disappointed, I started looking at transatlantic flight prices and stumbled upon discounted tickets from Basel-Mulhouse to Dallas—at the same price as our tickets to Turkey!
No hesitation needed; we bought the five tickets for a total of 1,860 € excluding baggage!
From Fort Worth Airport, we had two options:
- Head west on a loop through Texas, New Mexico, and southern Colorado
- Head east to change the scenery and explore East Texas, Louisiana, with a possible detour into Florida.
The latter option won unanimously, so here we are, off to discover new states, mainly Louisiana and Texas.
One of the main post-COVID challenges is finding a reasonably priced car rental. After an initial booking around 1,300 €, we kept an eye on prices a few weeks before departure and managed to snag a better deal at around 900 € for a comfortable sedan.
Yes, this summer will also be a first: no 4x4, no camping, and plenty of restaurants!
As always, I’ve planned a packed itinerary, ready to adjust on the go. A few weeks before departure, we learned we’d be at full capacity—our eldest son, Maxime, got his first-year med school results. By finishing as a top admit, he avoided the mandatory July-August internship that would’ve kept him from joining us. Instead, he wrapped up his internship at the last minute the night before our big departure.
We’ll get to savor these special moments together.
The itinerary:
Day 1 - 07/15: Fort Worth
Day 2: Dallas
Day 3: Jefferson - Caddo Lake
Day 4: Black Bayou Lake - Natchez - Stanton Hall and Rosalie Mansion
Day 5: St. Francisville - Rosedown Plantation - Cat Island Wildlife Refuge
Day 6: Mobile - USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park
Day 7 - 8: Pensacola Beach
Day 9: Bellingrath Gardens - New Orleans
Day 10 - 11: New Orleans
Day 12: Plantation Route
Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin
Day 14: Baton Rouge - USS Kidd
Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour
Day 16: Galveston, Texas
Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches
Day 18: San Antonio
Day 19: Texas Hill Country
Day 20: Texas Hill Country and evening in San Antonio
Day 21: Austin and Waco
Day 0 - 07/14: The departure timing isn’t exactly relaxing. On Thursday late afternoon, we hit the road to Alsace, aiming to drop off our two cockers with family before reaching the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour power nap.
Not exactly fresh, we arrive at the terminal looking for a British Airways counter. None in sight, so we try our luck at a United Airlines counter—who knows, maybe it’ll work out. And bingo! The agent checks us in. We didn’t quite understand why, but maybe there’s some agreement between airlines. For the first time, we’re traveling without checked baggage, so no extra fees. Not a huge feat, given the scorching temperatures awaiting us!
The connecting flight to London goes smoothly.
During the layover, liquid checks get stricter—now requiring small bottles to be in a pre-approved clear bag, with only one bag allowed per passenger. Normally, no big deal, but between deodorant, sunscreen, after-sun lotion, hand sanitizer, contact lens solution, etc., we spend 20 minutes optimizing the arrangement! When we finally succeed, one of the security staff bursts out laughing and congratulates us!
With our stomachs growling, we grab an American breakfast before browsing the airport shops.
We then discover our plane for the long-haul flight and are thrilled to see it’s an A380—a first for Laetitia, though the rest of the family experienced it during our winter getaway. Still just as impressive!
With a hint of uncertainty, we take off for the States—my third trip in barely 12 months. This time, no endless badlands, canyons, slot canyons, hoodoos, or brain rocks, but a journey through five states (Texas, Louisiana, a quick stop in Mississippi, Alabama, and the northwest tip of Florida), where we hope to soak up a unique vibe... with a packed schedule of diverse visits.
Arrival at Fort Worth Airport and customs go smoothly. Since we have no checked baggage, we’re first in line at the Dollar counter. In just 3 minutes, the formalities are done. We decline the Toll Pass, which I don’t think we’ll need based on my "calculations," and head to the Dollar parking lot, where an employee tells us we can pick any car we want!
There are about thirty cars waiting. Too many choices!
After last year’s mishap in Oakland, where our 4x4’s trunk was broken into, we’re looking for a sedan to hide our luggage this time. Unfortunately, there are none—only SUVs. We finally settle on a comfortable 7-seater Ford SUV with a massive trunk when set up for five.
On the road from Fort Worth to Dallas, we accidentally take a toll highway without realizing until it’s too late to exit. Let’s hope Dollar doesn’t charge us a week’s worth of their pricey Toll Pass for a $2 toll. We’ll see... In the meantime, Maxime sets up Google Maps to avoid toll roads.
Since it’s not too late, we stop by the nearest Walmart for groceries before checking into our hotel room for three nights in East Dallas suburb.
I’ve been to Morocco about fifteen times, but I’ve never posted a travel journal here on Voyage Forum. Why? I have no idea… Maybe because this section was so active, with lots of stories and photos. I thought sharing my adventures in *al Maghrib* wouldn’t be very original.
Today, this space feels quieter, so what if I tried to give it a little life back, modestly? With some help…
This trip will be different. From the start of my relationship with Richard, I was determined to introduce him to *my* Morocco. But he was a bit reluctant…
He’ll tell you about our 2022 meeting, and I’ll illustrate it with my photos, just like we did with our India travel journal.
Mid-June, two Auvergnats on the starting blocks—off we go to the former Yugoslavia!
We’d already explored some nooks and crannies of northern Croatia back in 2019, so we’re keeping the momentum going by planning a trip to the south of the country and then Montenegro.
On the way back, we’ll drift into Bosnia-Herzegovina just to mix things up a bit!
We’re a little unsure about what to expect in terms of tourist crowds.
Dubrovnik has a reputation for being the hardest-hit city by overtourism, and Kotor and the whole Dalmatian coast aren’t exactly empty...
Luckily, most European countries haven’t started school holidays yet, and some measures seem to have been put in place to limit the flow (like restrictions on the number of cruise ships allowed to dock at the same time).
Maybe we’ll manage to escape the promised hell?
For now, we’re slamming the doors of the Scirocco and heading off to our first stop: northern Italy!
The reopening of the forum is great news—let's keep it going! I’m going to share a little story about this 12-day trip, which was my second-to-last journey and my most recent one in Africa for now.
I went to this country for one very specific reason: to see two endemic animal species. A little suspense… you’ll find out what they are soon if you don’t already know!
The country is poor, very poor even. And it hits you even harder when you arrive in the capital: a massive open-air construction site that gives an impression of prosperity. A lot of roads were built by the Chinese, but to be honest, they’re far from perfect… and I mean *far*!
When it comes to restaurants, it’s pretty much the same story. Most offer endless menus, but in reality, there aren’t many choices. Once, I was flat-out told: “No rice today!” Ordering a dish? It’s a real gamble! The food is *very* spicy—I’m warning you, it’s intense! There’s chili in almost everything, so it’s best to ask beforehand if you don’t want your mouth on fire. Actually, this was the first time I didn’t like the food in a country I visited. Had to happen eventually, right?
Their national dish? Injera. A large flatbread topped with sauces, vegetables, and meat. The taste is really unique—some love it, others… not so much.
This trip to Japan, lasting 3 weeks, is starting to feel like a while ago now... 18 months (October/November 2024). I’ve wanted to share the story for a while, but I just couldn’t find the words. Too many emotions, I guess—it needed time to settle.
And then I felt like everything had already been said, everything had already been shown. Until I decided to simply base this on my travel journal, created after my return (drawings, collages, based on personal photos), and share excerpts with you in no particular order.
So this will be completely subjective, absolutely non-exhaustive, and totally personal!
Let’s start with the *shotengaï*...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where our hotel was for our first 5 nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived at our destination and took an exit that led us straight into a *shotengai*—one of those covered shopping streets that dot city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an aesthetic shock, a kind of third-kind encounter between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the "vintage" vibe of the arcade, the abundance of goods, the bustling crowd—a colorful mix of tourists, pilgrims (near Asakusa Temple), and locals (a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling that stayed with us throughout the trip. Wherever we went, *shotengaï* were fascinating places to find small restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some were real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we took a while to find a restaurant we’d really loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
For once, given the destination, the author can’t set aside their religious beliefs, which inevitably shape this kind of journey.
The Trip
Early in the morning at Orly Airport, in the departure lounge for Tel Aviv, a group of about forty young men arrives, all looking identical! The same neatly trimmed beards, the same identical haircuts, the same outfits with a touch of whimsy… The effect of seeing these forty “clones” is striking and raises questions! Why such perfect uniformity among this group of guys? Do they belong to the same family, sports club, cultural association, or religious group? A mystery!
At the same time, the waiting area fills up with men who are more expected, given our destination: they wear large felt hats and dress in black suits with white shirts—Hassidim? The ones I’ve glimpsed fleetingly in Paris or New York, who have always been a mystery to me. More discreet-looking women accompany them.
I’m already in Israel without even setting foot there! Plus, I witness the preparations for an improvised show.
The “clones” start a flash mob at seven in the morning in a Paris airport departure lounge! Some pull out musical instruments, others begin singing and dancing. A music with strange, unfamiliar sounds enchants the waiting passengers.
The flight crew finally arrives, cutting through the flash mob, bringing us back to the reality of the moment: waiting to take off soon for this so troubling and mysterious Middle East.
We go through passport control, presenting our faces to the scanners that operate the exit gate. The group of “identical” young men gets held up by the system: logically, a scanner let the first one through but blocked the second because of his perfect resemblance to the first. To the machine, the same person shouldn’t be able to cross the border twice? But eventually, the whole group makes it through the glass doors, leaving the Republic behind. My simplistic explanation is left looking ridiculous.
At every new destination, I ask myself countless questions, revealing a certain anxiety tied to the unknown: fear of attacks (one just happened at a bus station in Jerusalem), possible police pressure, unexpected events. Israel isn’t known for being a relaxing destination. In reality, if I did face a serious difficulty in this country, it wasn’t one I had anticipated—and it wasn’t particularly tied to Israel!
I take my seat by the window, which is already occupied by a little girl. Her father, a Hassidic man, politely asks if I’d be willing to give up my seat for his daughter. I tell him I’d be happy to make her happy. Seeing me masked, he asks if I’d like him and his daughter to wear masks too. In response, I take off my mask so as not to impose any constraints on them and wish them a good flight.
It was the first time I’d approached and spoken to a Hassidic man. He didn’t speak the way I might have expected after watching *Rabbi Jacob* with Louis de Funès; he spoke perfectly without an accent, just like you and me! Beware of stereotypes! Throughout the flight, I sneak glances at my strange neighbor: he prayed silently without stopping for a minute. His daughter, as good as gold, never interrupted him. He used several religious accessories during his three-hour continuous prayer: a kippa, a prayer shawl, and a rosary?… I left that plane deeply impressed, me, who has a very distant relationship with my Creator and only prays now and then.
October 7, 2023, is a sunny day in Milan. Since morning, in this light, I’m WhatsApping with Afrooz in Tehran, and I decide to call her. A lively, joyful conversation—French with that Farsi accent becomes a wonderful language. Suddenly, everything feels possible. Isfahan, Shiraz, Damavand, Yazd, Yazd, Yazd—a delicious word savored endlessly—become within reach. Iran, so longed for, is finally here. Pure joy, absolute enthusiasm. Six months to plan and relish a trip before living it.
Frozen.
Empty.
No.
We decide to wait, not to give up right away, pretending to believe—just a little, just to keep from collapsing—that with this wretched human race, the worst isn’t necessarily certain.
It is.
So... meh, Madeira? The Azores? Uzbekistan (a pale substitute)? New Zealand?
Greece. Again, always. Nestling into the only European promise we’ve been given. Indulging in illusions, for the pleasure of it.
So, train from Milan to Ancona (9 AM–12 PM), a typically Marchigiano lunch (Italy is paradise for food lovers), a stroll through the city, then at 4 PM boarding the *Olympic Champion*. Arrival in Patras the next afternoon, car rental, and off to Lepanto—Nafpaktos today—to reminisce about glorious victories and pay tribute to Cervantes, who lost a hand there before writing.
That’s the plan, anyway. The train is unusually on time. The ferry, replaced in the meantime by the *Hellenic Spirit* (why not? Even if it’s less suited to the season), is 3 hours late, then 4, no 5, then finally 6—oh wait, 7. And on top of that, it’s pouring rain in Ancona, and the port waiting room closes at 6 PM. Great...
At 11 PM, the ferry’s lights emerge in the pitch-black night. We jostle through the downpour, board, and sleep well in a cozy cabin with the white noise of the engines. Then:
I arrived in Berlin last night. In another discussion, I shared how much of a "nightmare" the flights from Nice were.
I’ll be posting some impressions here—what I liked and what I didn’t like as much.
This is my first time in Berlin. I’m staying for two weeks. For now, I’m alone, but I’ll be joined by someone in a few days.
Just to clarify, I won’t be posting any photos because my camera gave up the ghost the day before I left. It refused to read memory cards, and I don’t have a smartphone—just a tablet that I leave at the hotel.
Speaking of photos, a few years ago, at the Ducasse d’Ath in Belgium, I met a retired teacher who wasn’t taking any pictures of the festival. I asked her, "You’re not taking any photos?" She told me that during a trip to Nicaragua, she’d photographed howler monkeys and only noticed when looking at the pictures later that the males had huge testicles—something she hadn’t realized in person. She said, "Since then, I don’t bother with photos anymore!" I’ve thought about that often and wonder if I should do the same and stop taking pictures. Still, I’ll probably get a smartphone since it’s hard to go without one these days.
I’d like to invite you on a new adventure in Kenya.
Back in 2010, my husband Ben and I fell in love with Kenya, and we’ve been traveling there regularly ever since. This 2025 safari marked the first weeks of an important milestone in my life: retirement.
Of course, Felix—our guide and friend for all these years, whom some of you may even know from this forum—joined us again.
We chose an itinerary that takes us through the parks and reserves we particularly love in Kenya: Tsavo East (3 nights), Tsavo West (2 nights), a transition day in Embu, Samburu (5 nights), Meru NP (4 nights), Nanuyki to visit the Mount Kenya Animal Orphanage (https://mountkenyawildlifeconservancy.org/) (1 night), and Aberdare NP (2 nights).
This safari wasn’t our most prolific in terms of wildlife sightings and photos (all taken by Ben), but I still think it’s worth sharing our experiences and impressions of the places we visited. Maybe other travelers will find useful information here to help them fulfill their dream of a Kenyan safari one day...
Living in Brittany, we left from Nantes on Wednesday, January 8, 2025, on the 6 AM Air France flight to CDG, then took the direct flight to Nairobi at 10:50 AM. No issues this time on either flight (unlike in October 2023...).
We arrived in Nairobi at 9:20 PM local time (there’s a two-hour time difference with France at this time of year). Going through passport control and collecting our luggage went smoothly. The hotel shuttle (https://67airporthotel.co.ke/) was waiting for us. We shared it with a friendly Swiss couple who were there to climb Mount Kenya. We arrived at the hotel around midnight.
The 67 Airport Hotel is 10-15 minutes from Jomo Kenyatta Airport and offers great value for money. Plus, it’s close to the Mombasa road, which is handy when heading that way the next morning.
On Thursday, January 9, we had breakfast at the hotel restaurant at 6:30 AM, and as planned, Felix arrived around 7 AM. We got to check out his brand-new 4x4 Nissan—we’d be the first to test it! 🙂
We set off for Voi, making our usual stop in Mtito Andei. Traffic was heavy on the Mombasa road, with lots of trucks.
We found Tsavo East unusually green—there had been heavy rains in December, which isn’t typical. As a result, the animals were scattered and harder to spot. The watering hole visible from the camp’s dining area was completely deserted, whereas it’s usually bustling with herds of elephants and other mammals.
Our tent, No. 9, for 3 nights.
This camp is well-located inside the park. It’s simple but comfortable enough for our tastes, the staff is super friendly (as is often the case in Kenya), and the buffet-style meals are varied and good. Tsavo is the main destination for tourists staying on the coast who come for a night or two on safari. In January, some days at the camp are very quiet, while some evenings, the restaurant is packed with groups (lots of Italians, in particular).
Tsavo is, of course, famous for its elephants. This time, we didn’t see many large herds, but we did have some great encounters with solitary males.
Around this small watering hole, we saw a gathering of African open-billed storks—we’d never seen so many before!
The context:
For my 60th birthday, I had planned to take my family (kids + partners) for a week in Gran Canaria, at an all-inclusive hotel, but with the firm intention of exploring and hiking. The deal was to meet up at least in the evenings to spend time together, if my pace didn’t suit them. Personally, I’m not into beaches and lazing around, but my daughter-in-law is pretty cool. We were going to be together, do what we liked, and all would be well.
Unfortunately, five days before departure, my mother-in-law passed away, and of course, we had to cancel everything.
I was able to get a refund for a lot of things, including the hotel despite missing the free cancellation deadline (really cool of them), and I got a one-year credit for the full price of the flight tickets.
So, we tried to plan the same thing for my kids, but with their schedules, we couldn’t find a date.
I had to find a destination served by Iberia, far enough to use up my credit.
We don’t know the Caribbean, we needed sun and a bit of rest, so the Dominican Republic won out.
But no way were we going to mess up by staying in an all-inclusive hotel and only visiting the island’s paradise beaches… (we’ll get back to that).
So, as usual, I put together a little road trip with a rental car.
Here we go!!!!
Day 1: Crossing the Atlantic
Super early departure for Lyon-Saint Exupéry Airport. A 3-hour layover in Madrid (my wife’s had enough of flight delays, so I played it safe). Flight to Santo Domingo without any issues. The luggage arrived, the driver I’d booked was there, everything went smoothly.
We got to our hotel in the Zona Colonial around 4 PM.
Bad luck—it’s on a cute little square where there was supposed to be neighborhood activity in the evening. It’s completely under construction! Too bad!
We decided to head to the Malecón, a sort of local Promenade des Anglais, except there are no English people. It’s nice, safe, spacious, and by the ocean. We walked for a while, and as happy hour rolled around, I started my training as an intern in rum-based cocktails.
A mojito, classic, but it’s amazing to be sipping the drink in the warmth, right by the big blue.
On the way back to the hotel, we grabbed some bananas, ate them in the room, and then bedtime.
The plus: We actually left!
The minus: There isn’t one
First attempt at a travel journal for me and first post after 7 years away from this forum. 😮
I went to the island of La Palma for 15 days in September 2025. After visiting Lanzarote in February, I was looking for a different and greener island. Well, I wasn’t disappointed. 😎
We stayed in Breña Baja on the east coast of the island, 5 minutes from the airport. This choice was mainly motivated by the desire not to change accommodation during the stay and to be in a "central" location close to amenities. It worked out well, but if I were to do it again, I’d split the stay in two by getting another place in the north of the island to explore that area, which really appeals to me.
Note that the island is "climatically divided in two": the west coast is sunnier and drier, while the east coast is often foggy or cloudy. It’s quite impressive when you come out of the LP-3 road tunnel connecting the two sides—you feel like you’ve changed regions even though it’s less than 3 km apart.
Flight options weren’t plentiful (no direct flights from France), so I went with Iberia, connecting in Madrid for 250 € round-trip per person excluding checked baggage (80 € round-trip for one 23 kg suitcase on this route). Make sure to buy the checked baggage at the same time as your flight, as it’ll cost about 15 € more if you add it later.
I booked the tickets 5 months in advance directly on Iberia’s website. You could also take a low-cost airline to Tenerife or Gran Canaria and then a flight with a Canarian carrier, but in my opinion, that only makes sense if you’re visiting one of those islands first, as the connection isn’t "guaranteed." The ferry is an option from Tenerife (about 2.5 hours crossing).
Our departure from Lyon was initially scheduled for 6 AM but took off at 9 AM so the crew could rest after the late arrival of the previous flight. This let us grab breakfast on the airline’s dime—thanks, EU Regulation (EC) No 261/2004. 😉 Iberia took a week to reimburse me after I submitted my passport, receipts, and bank details via their online claim form.
Our small but spacious CRJ-1000 Air Nostrum
Bye-bye, Bugey nuclear plant
And hello, Madrid—or rather, its very dry region.
Our layover was initially 4 hours but shrank to 1 hour due to the previous flight’s delay. That worked out for us because Terminal 4 at Barajas is way less comfortable for resting than Lyon’s T1.
Landing with a view of Playa de la Cangrejera and del Pozo. When I say the east coast is often cloudy... 😇
First sight of "plátano" plantations. Banana farming makes up 50% of the island’s GDP!
It was the start of winter; I was freezing, and the mood wasn’t exactly joyful—Ukraine, 49.3...
So I self-medicated: a week in Italy to hear laughter and that melodic language, and of course, to immerse myself in beauty for a while.
I was looking for a destination: Florence. The choice was biased because I wanted to revisit *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus*.
Then came the choice of airline: Vueling flies directly to Florence, but you’ve got to know how to handle Vueling—sometimes you make it to your destination, sometimes you’re left at the gate. It’s not expensive, but that’s about all it’s worth. Best to know their rules of the game. Plus, Vueling leaves from Orly, which is super easy to get to by metro.
The gods were with me that day—Vueling actually got me to Florence. On arrival, the temperature was better than forecast, and I knew the days were slightly longer in Italy (and shorter in Stockholm). And the Italian language was floating in the air...
I took the new tram that takes you to the heart of the city, near the great "cheesecake" that’s said to mark the superiority of the Renaissance over Europe’s sublime Gothic cathedrals. I walked around the big pastry and turned onto *my* street, Via dei Servi. Along the way, I stewed over my guilt for not admiring the sublime *Duomo*; I hoped no police had detected my rebellious, deviant mindset.
I’d chosen a hotel on the stunning Piazza della Santissima Annunziata—I’ll even share its name, that’s the VF spirit: it’s the Hotel Due Fontane.
And that’s the real point of this post: until Easter, you can treat yourself to a room in a very charming hotel for around 60 €, breakfast buffet included! To do this, book on Booking.com and make it clear you’ll return the next day with a new reservation at that price. You’ll have left your things in the luggage room to move into a new room in the evening. I didn’t have to play that game since the reception gave me a long-term stay at a reduced rate.
The next day, the kind barista drew a perfect, beautiful flower on my cappuccino. That man was the smile and good cheer of Italy.
Florence had more to offer, and this time I wasn’t being picky like I was with the big white pastry: I had a date with *Primavera* and Venus. Off to the Uffizi; the weather was decent, much warmer than Paris, and the girls were laughing.
Arriving at the Uffizi: had I bought a skip-the-line ticket? What for? I walked in subito and even got the winter discount rate. You’ll agree that when visiting a museum, it doesn’t matter if it’s hot or not. When I got to Botticelli’s room, I love being alone—I have the illusion of owning two of the most beautiful paintings in the world. There was one tourist there that day. We admired *Primavera* and *The Birth of Venus* without getting in each other’s way; those young women painted so long ago show such beauty and radiate such elegance, especially in their faces.
I hesitated about going to the Accademia, but David is worth a revisit. If a skip-the-line ticket is ever needed, it’s here. But no! I walked in subito! Usually, women don’t openly show their attraction, but you might hear "He’s cute" about a man. Around David, it’s amusing to see they’re not immune to the sight.
Off to the Medici Chapels; entrance subita. I felt humbled by the princes’ munificence and the master’s works.
Then it was time for a stroll—maybe a Mannerist painting at Santa Felicita (oh, miracle, it was open), or playing the game of comparing the two crucifixes, including Donatello’s, sipping a Spritz in a little bar with a view of the Ponte Vecchio, wandering Via Roma in the evening among the cheerful crowd and shops decked out for Christmas. Seeing the Church of Santa Maria del Carmine for its frescoes and the Italian Pantheon at Santa Croce (Napoleon’s first girlfriend is buried there). Italy, land of frescoes!
Every evening, until I exhausted my pasta card, I enjoyed spaghetti on *my* Via dei Servi.
The point of this post: you can visit Florence at a very low cost, without impossible queues, and without tourist pressure, in reasonably warm weather until Easter. In May, the Due Fontane charges 220 to 250 €! For the rest, I may have rambled a bit.
PS: Vueling stranded me on the way back; my punishment was staying an extra day in this incredibly welcoming city.
No journal for the first two days.
Day 1 - CARCANS-ROYAN
Day 2 - ROYAN - ROCHEFORT
Tonight I'm in MARANS in the "dry marsh" according to the campsite manager—it’s the first time I’ve heard of a "dry marsh"?!
Photos from the first two days
My gear
The Landes region—nothing extraordinary, but the calm and serenity are nice.
Le Verdon
The wild coast
This marsh isn’t dry, though.
Today is the third day of my trip, and I’m writing to you from a campsite in Marans. I’ve set out to bike from Carcans Maubuisson back to Plaisir.
Why Carcans?
Because we spent a week there as a family—a great week that lets everyone reconnect for a long stretch.
Also, on Saturday, we all headed home—some by car, and me by bike. This journey is about 850 km via bike paths and small cycling roads. It’s not a sporting feat, just a nice long ride for fun.
As the old Chinese sage says, "The destination doesn’t matter—it’s the journey that counts." But he also told me, "Traveling is great, but what’s the point if you don’t share it?"
You see, this old sage has told me a lot of things—he often keeps me company when I’m biking. Of course, he doesn’t pedal, but we travel in harmony. Sure, he can be a bit annoying sometimes, but we still get along.
All this to say I’ve created a group to share my story.
I’d be happy to share this experience with you—it’s an adventure for me.
On Saturday, I wasn’t sure I’d even leave because I’d been dealing with sciatica for days. Luckily, Juliette, a friend of the old Chinese sage, recommended a lifesaving remedy:
Alternately stretching your legs with an elastic band under your foot. Obviously, a jam jar rubber band won’t cut it.
From Marans - The mosquitoes are attacking; time to head back to shelter.
The first two legs took me to Royan and then Rochefort.
The Sèvre Niortaise flows nearby, and I followed a canal from La Rochelle. You could say the area is as dry as the marsh, judging by the state of the crops.
As I mentioned, it’s the third day, and if Jesus rose again on this day, for me it was more like the crucifixion. The scorching heat—only bearable when you’re moving—combined with rough trail conditions, and the old Chinese sage says, "Terrible roads, slow speed, and watch your limbs."
I set out to do 60 km but ended up doing 80, and the last 20 were tough. I kept checking the GPS to see how much farther until the campsite.
Today: Rochefort to Marans, sticking to the coast until La Rochelle, then no notable towns after that—just a constant canal. But since the sky isn’t too low, it hasn’t gotten lost.
I’ve still got plenty of anecdotes to share, but it’s pitch black out, and the mosquitoes are still around. This morning, I counted ten in my tent, all full of my blood.
Yesterday, at the end of the leg to Rochefort, I was really looking forward to crossing the Charente using the transporter bridge, but a sneaky GPS conspiracy led me far from it. I ended up crossing the Charente on a completely ordinary bridge, watching the transporter bridge in the distance with disappointment.
End of the first episode. Until tomorrow, if you’d like!
Okay, it wasn’t a total disaster either. Actually, I hesitated before starting this travel journal: is it even worth writing about a holiday that won’t leave an unforgettable memory?
In the end, I went for it (there aren’t many recent travel journals about this destination).
So, read on... or don’t .
Every time we’ve been to the Canary Islands, it’s been by default (basically: where can we go in winter or early spring when we only have a week—so not too far, not too much jet lag, but with decent weather?).
This time, we had two weeks, but the winter plan kept changing: first Thailand (dropped for personal reasons), then Martinique (dropped because of work leave dates that weren’t up to me), and finally, the Canary Islands.
We’ve already been to Tenerife (which we really liked) and Lanzarote (which we liked a little less).
This year, two options: Gran Canaria or one of the smaller islands west of Tenerife (La Palma, or even La Gomera or El Hierro).
We chose Gran Canaria... not sure it was the right call!
Whose fault is it?
Storm Thérèse’s!
Yes, Storm Thérèse followed us on arrival, and its effects lasted quite a while. We had to adapt, cancel visits, change activities...
But even without Thérèse...
Saturday 21/03
Departure from Orly at 6:10 AM with Transavia.
The plane took off on time and landed a little early, tossed around by strong winds before touching down.
It had just rained, but it was (almost) no longer raining.
We quickly picked up our luggage and then the car at the Cicar counter.
We got a Seat Arona instead of the Corsa we’d booked. Well, while the driving position didn’t feel great at first (I got used to it), the engine’s smoothness and power were much appreciated on the island’s winding and sometimes steep roads.
It was only 10 AM, and we couldn’t theoretically check into our accommodation until 3 PM (the owner promised to message me if it was ready earlier).
So, we headed to the (big) *Jardín Botánico Viera y Clavijo*, where we planned to spend a few hours.
We found a huge parking lot... empty.
The passenger in the car in front of us (yes, we weren’t the only ones at the closed gate—there was a car in front and one behind) went to ask for info: it was closed due to the storm 😕.
So, we calmly headed toward Puerto de las Nieves, on the northwest coast of the island.
The plan: go to a restaurant, visit the village, and do some shopping while waiting for early afternoon.
As soon as we got out of the car, it started raining... we took shelter under the awning of a shop, waiting for it to pass. But the rain turned into a downpour, and within minutes, awning or not, Gore-Tex or not, we were soaked!
Since we were already wet, we might as well go to the restaurant—they weren’t far! But here’s the thing: contrary to what Google Maps said, they all opened at 1 PM, not noon!
Back to the car, wading through 5 cm of water because all the village streets were flooded .
The rain let up, we did some shopping, went to eat, and I got a message from the owner saying the accommodation was ready 🙂.
So, off we went to La Suerte, a few kilometers north of Agaete.
The downside of the place, especially with luggage, is that you have to climb several flights of stairs via an outdoor staircase (after parking more or less far away on a steep street) to get there 😛).
Of course, on the way from the car to the apartment, it started pouring again—the bags got soaked!
Enough rain for today! We settled in quietly, and by late afternoon, we could (finally!) go admire the view from the terrace.
For our latest 3-week family trip (yes, the kids are growing up, and two of them are about to enter the working world), we’re heading to South America!
For our first time on this continent, I had planned a classic 3-week loop in Peru.
But since we won’t be returning to this part of the world anytime soon, I thought: why not follow in the footsteps of Franck, aka Bibouns51, who, in 18 days, didn’t just stick to Peru but also added two of the planet’s most stunning landscapes to his itinerary... the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia and its neighbor, the fabulous Atacama Desert in northern Chile !!
So, I set about the tricky task of limiting the regions we’d visit in Peru to those we considered must-sees, to avoid rushing too much. The visit schedules were optimized, including several comfortable overnight buses that have the huge advantage of letting us hop between regions.
So, we’re off on a somewhat adventurous trip with three domestic flights (two on the first day and one on the last), two overnight buses for quick hops, several car rentals, the services of a few drivers to make the trip more comfortable, and even a tour operator for crossing the Salar...
Our main concern is altitude sickness, and we’re bringing Diamox, aspirin, etc., just in case.
Our second worry before departure was not even getting off the ground... Yes, for once, we’re leaving from France—Marseille, to be exact. The week before our departure, with the surprise air traffic controllers’ strike, I remembered why we usually prefer to leave from abroad, like Turin or Barcelona... In the end, it wasn’t the air traffic controllers who made us nervous but the early July wildfires that paralyzed the airport a few days before our departure. Fortunately, the fires were quickly brought under control, and on the big day, everything was smooth sailing!
Detailed itinerary (which changed on Day 1 due to departure hiccups):
Day 0: Flight Marseille - Madrid - Lima
PERU
Theoretical and abandoned Day 1: Flight Lima - Cuzco and visit Cuzco (Puka Pukara, Tambomachay, Cristo Blanco Observatory, Sacsayhuaman sunset) - Night in Cuzco
Day 2: Taxi -> Chinchero - Moray - Maras Salt Mines - Ollantaytambo - Train to Aguas Calientes
Day 3: Machu Picchu - Return train to Ollantaytambo
Day 4: 2-day taxi -> Pisac - Tipon - Andahuaylillas - Huaro - Night in San Pedro
Day 5: Palcoyo - Checacupe - Vinicunca - Return and night in Cuzco
Day 6: Day in Cuzco (catch-up on Sacsayhuaman, San Blas district, Temple of the Sun) - Overnight bus to Arequipa
Day 7: Rental car -> On the road to Colca Canyon, night in Cabanaconde
Day 8: Descent to the bottom of Colca Canyon, night at Oasis Sangalle
Day 9: Ascent from the canyon - Maca - Chivay - Return and night in Arequipa
Day 10: Visit Arequipa (Santa Catalina Convent, La Recoleta Church and Monastery, La Compañía Church, Cathedral) - Overnight bus to Puno
Day 11: Lake Titicaca - Night in Puno
BOLIVIA
Day 12: Shared taxi -> Road to La Paz, visit downtown La Paz - Night 1 in La Paz
Day 13: Moon Valley and Las Animas Valley - Night 2 in La Paz
Day 14: Day in La Paz - Night 3 in La Paz
Day 15: Flight to Uyuni - Day 1 of Salar de Uyuni tour - Night at the edge of the Salar
Day 16: Crossing the Lipez region and lagoons - Night near Laguna Colorada
Day 17: Sol de Mañana
CHILE
Day 17 cont.: Pre-booked transfer to SPDA - 4x4 rental - Pukara de Quitor - Stargazing tour - Night 1 in SPDA
Day 18: Death Valley and Moon Valley - Night 2 in SPDA
Day 19: Miscanti and Miniques Lagoons, Salar de Aguas Calientes and its Piedra Roja, Tebenquiche Lagoon and Quebrada del Diablo - Night 3 in SPDA
Day 20: Rainbow Valley and swim in the Puritama River - Night 4 in SPDA
Day 21: Tebenquiche Lagoon - Bus to Calama - Flight to Santiago
Day 22: Return Santiago - Madrid - Marseille
Day 0 - 11/07: Destination Lima
Our first flight from Marseille went smoothly to our Iberia layover in Madrid.
In Madrid, just after getting off the plane around 8 PM, and as we were walking through the terminal, we got a rude awakening!!
We saw the word "Cancelled" next to our flight number on the display boards. Thinking it must be a glitch, we checked another screen, but the system was stubborn, and the same dreaded word appeared !
So, we headed to the Iberia counter, where an agent confirmed that our Friday evening flight was canceled and rescheduled for the next morning. The reason? A breakdown and no replacement plane, even though we were in Madrid, Iberia’s home base!
To make matters worse, I remembered our super-tight schedule, planned to the minute, with no buffer day in Lima. Since I’m a bit phobic of megacities and hadn’t found anything appealing in the Peruvian capital in our guidebooks, we’d planned to leave Lima as soon as possible for Cusco, the heart of the Sacred Valley, to spend our first day there.
Bad idea, because we already knew the 4-hour buffer wouldn’t be enough, and we’d miss the domestic flight, which was, of course, non-refundable and non-changeable. So, we had to call LATAM from Madrid to find another flight for Saturday evening and negotiate a rate to recover some of our initial outlay.
After an hour on the phone with customer service, several endless holds, and three failed attempts to dictate our credit card number over the phone to a Spaniard speaking English with a thick accent, we finally managed to confirm the transaction, securing our new flight tickets for a moderate extra cost of just 150 € total.
At first, we were pretty bummed about losing a day and incurring extra fees to reschedule the domestic flight, but then, when we learned from an Iberia customer service rep that we’d receive the max compensation of 600 € per traveler, we even ended up grinning... because 3000 € in refunds for only losing the first day in Cusco? We’d sign up for that 10 times over!!
Iberia then took care of us, putting us up in a hotel where we had dinner before a short 5-hour night and an early morning departure. I took the opportunity to improvise a quick day of sightseeing in Lima, focusing on the Barranco and Miraflores districts.
Xlendi Bay
the seabeds in the coves
And in Kyoto, the Nishiki Market:
23 hours of rest. Of forgetting.
Bye-bye, Bugey nuclear plant
And hello, Madrid—or rather, its very dry region.
Our layover was initially 4 hours but shrank to 1 hour due to the previous flight’s delay. That worked out for us because Terminal 4 at Barajas is way less comfortable for resting than Lyon’s T1.
First sight of "plátano" plantations. Banana farming makes up 50% of the island’s GDP!
My gear
