After five trips to the American West, we had planned to switch countries and continents to visit Turkey. However, by the time we made up our minds, flight ticket prices had nearly doubled, reaching 400 € for a round-trip ticket. A bit disappointed, I started looking at transatlantic flight prices and stumbled upon discounted tickets from Basel-Mulhouse to Dallas—at the same price as our tickets to Turkey!
No hesitation needed; we bought the five tickets for a total of 1,860 € excluding baggage!
From Fort Worth Airport, we had two options:
- Head west on a loop through Texas, New Mexico, and southern Colorado
- Head east to change the scenery and explore East Texas, Louisiana, with a possible detour into Florida.
The latter option won unanimously, so here we are, off to discover new states, mainly Louisiana and Texas.
One of the main post-COVID challenges is finding a reasonably priced car rental. After an initial booking around 1,300 €, we kept an eye on prices a few weeks before departure and managed to snag a better deal at around 900 € for a comfortable sedan.
Yes, this summer will also be a first: no 4x4, no camping, and plenty of restaurants!
As always, I’ve planned a packed itinerary, ready to adjust on the go. A few weeks before departure, we learned we’d be at full capacity—our eldest son, Maxime, got his first-year med school results. By finishing as a top admit, he avoided the mandatory July-August internship that would’ve kept him from joining us. Instead, he wrapped up his internship at the last minute the night before our big departure.
We’ll get to savor these special moments together.
The itinerary:
Day 1 - 07/15: Fort Worth
Day 2: Dallas
Day 3: Jefferson - Caddo Lake
Day 4: Black Bayou Lake - Natchez - Stanton Hall and Rosalie Mansion
Day 5: St. Francisville - Rosedown Plantation - Cat Island Wildlife Refuge
Day 6: Mobile - USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park
Day 7 - 8: Pensacola Beach
Day 9: Bellingrath Gardens - New Orleans
Day 10 - 11: New Orleans
Day 12: Plantation Route
Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin
Day 14: Baton Rouge - USS Kidd
Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour
Day 16: Galveston, Texas
Day 17: Space Center Houston - Painted Churches
Day 18: San Antonio
Day 19: Texas Hill Country
Day 20: Texas Hill Country and evening in San Antonio
Day 21: Austin and Waco
Day 0 - 07/14: The departure timing isn’t exactly relaxing. On Thursday late afternoon, we hit the road to Alsace, aiming to drop off our two cockers with family before reaching the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour power nap.
Not exactly fresh, we arrive at the terminal looking for a British Airways counter. None in sight, so we try our luck at a United Airlines counter—who knows, maybe it’ll work out. And bingo! The agent checks us in. We didn’t quite understand why, but maybe there’s some agreement between airlines. For the first time, we’re traveling without checked baggage, so no extra fees. Not a huge feat, given the scorching temperatures awaiting us!
The connecting flight to London goes smoothly.
During the layover, liquid checks get stricter—now requiring small bottles to be in a pre-approved clear bag, with only one bag allowed per passenger. Normally, no big deal, but between deodorant, sunscreen, after-sun lotion, hand sanitizer, contact lens solution, etc., we spend 20 minutes optimizing the arrangement! When we finally succeed, one of the security staff bursts out laughing and congratulates us!
With our stomachs growling, we grab an American breakfast before browsing the airport shops.
We then discover our plane for the long-haul flight and are thrilled to see it’s an A380—a first for Laetitia, though the rest of the family experienced it during our winter getaway. Still just as impressive!
With a hint of uncertainty, we take off for the States—my third trip in barely 12 months. This time, no endless badlands, canyons, slot canyons, hoodoos, or brain rocks, but a journey through five states (Texas, Louisiana, a quick stop in Mississippi, Alabama, and the northwest tip of Florida), where we hope to soak up a unique vibe... with a packed schedule of diverse visits.
Arrival at Fort Worth Airport and customs go smoothly. Since we have no checked baggage, we’re first in line at the Dollar counter. In just 3 minutes, the formalities are done. We decline the Toll Pass, which I don’t think we’ll need based on my "calculations," and head to the Dollar parking lot, where an employee tells us we can pick any car we want!
There are about thirty cars waiting. Too many choices!
After last year’s mishap in Oakland, where our 4x4’s trunk was broken into, we’re looking for a sedan to hide our luggage this time. Unfortunately, there are none—only SUVs. We finally settle on a comfortable 7-seater Ford SUV with a massive trunk when set up for five.
On the road from Fort Worth to Dallas, we accidentally take a toll highway without realizing until it’s too late to exit. Let’s hope Dollar doesn’t charge us a week’s worth of their pricey Toll Pass for a $2 toll. We’ll see... In the meantime, Maxime sets up Google Maps to avoid toll roads.
Since it’s not too late, we stop by the nearest Walmart for groceries before checking into our hotel room for three nights in East Dallas suburb.
For our first day, thanks to jet lag, we had no trouble getting up early to head back toward our arrival airport from the day before, Fort Worth.
First stop: downtown Fort Worth, considered the gateway to our beloved American West.
On this Saturday morning, we had no trouble finding a parking spot in a massive multi-level parking garage, which must be packed during the week. What surprised us right away was the calm and serene atmosphere in this city, even though it has nearly 900,000 residents.
The streets were almost deserted at this early hour.
Some buildings, built with red bricks, have retained their old-world charm.
Sundance Square Plaza is located in the heart of the eponymous district. A certain harmony emanates from the architecture of the surrounding buildings.
We walked up Main Street to admire the Tarrant County Courthouse, a replica of the state capitol, which apparently often appeared in the TV series *Walker, Texas Ranger*.
After exploring this splendid downtown, we got back in the car to head toward the Stockyards National Historic District. We parked among the first cars in the huge lot bordering the main street and were irresistibly drawn to the shop on the corner, showcasing cowboy boots and clothing... and we completely ignored the signs.
Big mistake...
A peaceful "Old West" atmosphere still reigns in this authentic cattle district.
At Stockyards Station, there are plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops. We took the chance to stock up on memories amid cowboy outfits, boots, and all sorts of Made in USA souvenirs.
Some shops sell famous longhorn cow horns and cowhides. Even if we were tempted, not sure either would fit in our carry-on luggage...
On the main street, several attractions are offered to tourists and locals: a ride in a horse-drawn wagon,
or even a few seconds on the back of a longhorn for about $5. Didn’t feel like trying, especially since the cow looked miserable in the scorching heat.
But the main attraction in the Stockyards district is the famous longhorn parade, which takes place twice a day at 11:30 AM and 4:00 PM. The street is packed when the parade starts. And you’d better be ready to snap your camera, because the whole thing lasts just ONE short minute.
Yep, that’s all the time it takes for just a dozen cows to cover the 100-meter route!
Despite how brief the show is, we have a blast—the succession of horns is impressive!
Then we stroll around downtown.
To get a better view of the longhorns, we climb onto the walkways overlooking the corrals where the animals are gathered.
We recognize the setting that was briefly used for filming the *1883* series during a scene in Fort Worth.
In a souvenir shop selling cowboy boots, Laetitia falls for an authentic pair of brown leather santiags with the Texas emblem.
Around 3:00 PM, on our way back to Stockyards Station, we discover that the station is still active, with an authentic, fully restored vintage train parked right in the heart of the covered building. We get to witness the departure of the train, now repurposed for tourist transport.
In my itinerary, I had planned to attend a rodeo scheduled for 8:00 PM at the Coliseum. However, in the afternoon when we walked by, we found the arena really small compared to the one in Cody.
Afraid of being disappointed—and knowing we still had over 4 hours to wait until the show started—we all got lazy and decided to head back to Dallas instead.
When we arrived at the parking lot, we had the unpleasant surprise of finding a parking ticket tucked under the windshield wiper. Despite the lack of a barrier, the parking was paid, and now that we’re looking closely, we wonder how we missed the huge information sign. Forced to pay up, we end up shelling out $45 that same evening by scanning the right QR code...
To avoid ruining this amazing day and stay in the mood, we decide to enjoy an excellent rare steak at a Cheddar restaurant near the hotel! Then we end the evening with some relaxation at the hotel pool.
Yes, much more relaxed. It’s already been written for a year, so the pace will be quicker.
There are very few travel journals about Louisiana and Texas, yet it was one of our favorite trips in the U.S., despite the less-than-ideal season. That says it all...!
Thanks to jet lag, we have breakfast at dawn and discover a waffle machine churning out Texas-shaped waffles! The rest is more classic...
We take advantage of the relatively mild morning to go for a walk in Fair Park, still deserted at this hour. The park is huge and home to the Cotton Bowl Stadium, an American football stadium with 92,000 seats. No way to get in at this time. Nearby, we admire the architecture of the esplanade and the Hall of State.
In the same neighborhood is Swiss Avenue, a surprising street that houses some of the city’s most luxurious villas. In this district listed on the National Register of Historic Places, various architectural styles follow one another, and no two buildings look alike!
We can’t linger too long because at 10 AM, we’re off to Southfork Ranch for a guided tour of the famous ranch where the *Dallas* TV series was filmed. The ranch is still about thirty miles from downtown.
Only Laetitia takes the guided tour. Since no other family member has seen a single episode of the series, we decide to skip this visit, which holds no interest for us, and wait for her for an hour.
During the guided tour, Laetitia learns that only the outdoor scenes of the series were filmed at Southfork, especially those around the pool, while all the indoor scenes were shot in a studio.
The interior rooms were apparently reproduced more or less faithfully compared to the studios.
In the end, Laetitia leaves the ranch with mixed feelings, as the interior decor lacked soul, and some reconstructed rooms didn’t bring back any childhood memories for her.
For my part, the few photos of the exterior taken with a telephoto lens were more than enough.
We then head back to downtown Dallas. Along the way, we check a parking comparison platform to find a good spot at a reasonable price. After that, we start our stroll downtown among the skyscrapers.
The giant Eyeball, a realistic fiberglass sculpture
Walking toward City Hall, we get an interesting angle on a group of downtown buildings.
City Hall itself isn’t anything special. However, the view enjoyed by the employees is much more interesting.
Pioneer Plaza, or Place des Pionniers, treats us to an impressive herd of longhorn sculptures led by Texas cowboys. It's simply the largest bronze sculpture in the world!
We then reach Reunion Tower, one of the city's most iconic towers. At the top of this tower, there's a sphere containing a revolving bar-restaurant, Five Sixty, surrounded by a metal mesh with nearly 260 lamps that light up at night.
I bought a combo ticket that allows for a double visit: a trip to the top during the day for a panoramic daytime view, then a return in the evening to enjoy the downtown illuminations. We even get a cheesy family souvenir photo before taking the elevator. Can't share it on the forum... 😄
The bird's-eye view of Dallas is simply heavenly! 😇
The view of County Courthouse, located right next to Dealey Plaza, is just as stunning!
After a quick elevator ride down, we enjoy a view of County Courthouse from street level.
And here's Dealey Plaza, the famous square where JFK was assassinated on November 22, 1963. At the corner of the street is the Sixth Floor Museum, a museum that details the assassination. At nearly $20 for entry to a simple museum, we're a bit put off and decide to skip it.
We continue to the memorial dedicated to JFK. Though it looks rather ordinary, it has the distinction of having been erected by the people of Dallas.
Bank of America Tower
On top of the direct sunlight, the heat reflecting off the concrete really wears us out, so we decide to spend some time in a fast-food place to "lunch"—or rather, snack, given the hour.
The AC blasting, as it often is in buildings, gives us another temperature shock, which, over time, will wear down our bodies and probably give us a cold...
After a break in one of the rare little squares with trees, it finally hits 8 PM, and we decide to head back to Reunion Tower. We’re early for the sunset, but we made the right call—no surprise, it’s packed since most people go for the combo ticket, which is only slightly more expensive than the single ticket!
After waiting a good half-hour, we walk past the souvenir photo stand again (we politely decline) and then get to enjoy our breathtaking panoramic view—this time with the nighttime lights of the different buildings!
The metal structure stabilizing Reunion Tower lights up blue thanks to hundreds of lamps.
Thanks to my smartphone’s instant night-photo editing feature, it captures the visual effect really well!
The Bank of America Tower, all lit up in green, is the most photogenic!
I then suggest to the family that we head to the trendy Deep Ellum neighborhood, but we’re all exhausted from this very long day, so we decide to head back to the hotel for our last night in Dallas.
I just saw you’ve started posting another travel journal, so I’m following along! What year was this? Summer 2024?
There really aren’t many journals about these regions, so it’ll be a discovery for me. For now, it seems very urban, but we’ll see how it goes 😉
How do you always manage to find such great deals? For next year, I spent weeks searching for tickets to the Northwest, and it wasn’t easy to find a good combination for dates, number of layovers, and arrival/departure cities... In the end, we’ll arrive in Portland and leave from Seattle. There are five of us, so I booked 3 tickets with checked bags and 2 without, averaging 850 € per ticket. We’ve traveled for much less before, but I got tired of searching...
Same for the car—so far, the best rate I’ve found is 1730 € for a Chrysler Pacifica for 20 days...😐
Congrats to Maxime on his med school year! Which specialty is he going into? I’m glad to see he can move around normally again—he really went through it!
then head to the airport at 2 AM for a 3-hour restorative nap.
Did you find a place to stay? That’s something I’m wondering about for next summer... We’ve never left from Basel-Mulhouse before. Our flight is at 6:15 AM, so that means being at the airport by 4 AM. We still can’t decide: either book a hotel the night before, wake everyone up (including my parents) at 3 AM, or head there at midnight and just settle in there.
I just took a virtual stroll down Swiss Avenue on Street View—it’s absolutely gorgeous!
The night views from the Reunion Tower are stunning!
Oh, and one last thing... Laetitia looks like your daughter’s sister! It’s crazy how young she looks!
Hi Peggy,
We took this trip in July 2023. Last summer, we went to Iceland—always for those breathtaking landscapes!
How do you always find such great fares?
This was the first time I managed to get a fare like 360 € per person, except back in February 2019 when I snagged CDG-SFO tickets for 250 € thanks to a great tip from Gilou on VF.
As soon as booking platforms open—12 months ahead on Skyscanner and 11 months ahead on Google Flights—I keep an eye out for upcoming deals for the following summer, without locking in on any specific destination. We’re also flexible about the departure airport: we check Nice/Marseille first (great for Asia-Africa), then Barcelona (good for Central and South America), Turin/Milan (USA), and even Geneva or Basel (especially for flights to the US, like Dallas and Phoenix).
Driving that far isn’t cost-effective for 2-3 people, but with 5 of us, it’s a different story.
Same for the car—so far, the best rate I’ve found is 1730 € for a Chrysler Pacifica for 20 days
I’ve noticed prices usually drop around 40-80 days before departure.
Congrats to Maxime on his med school year! Which specialty is he leaning toward?
Thanks! He’s not entirely sure yet—there are just a few specialties he’s not too keen on. A lot will depend on his ranking in his 6th year and whether he wants to leave the Marseille area. It’s not exactly the safest at night… The only thing he’s sure of is wanting a specialty that lets him work outside France. Switzerland, Norway, or even the US sound appealing to him (😎😎)!
Our flight leaves at 6:15 AM, so that means being at the airport by 4 AM. We still can’t decide: book a hotel the night before, wake everyone (including my parents) at 3 AM, or just head there at midnight and wait.
We prefer a long nap in the car to avoid paying for a hotel room for just 4 hours and to control our departure time. Besides, I wouldn’t be able to sleep deeply anyway—I’d be too worried about oversleeping!
I just took a virtual stroll down Swiss Avenue on Street View—it’s absolutely gorgeous!
I had other insane villa photos, but we’re limited to 300, so I had to be *very* selective…
Laetitia looks like your daughter’s sister! It’s crazy how young she looks
When she was a young mom pushing Maxime and Rachel in a stroller, I can’t even tell you how many times strangers scolded her in the street, asking if it was really responsible to have kids at her age… (She was 25-30, though…)
After two days in the city, our road trip truly begins as we head east across Texas.
Our first stop is Jefferson, which in the 19th century was one of the most important ports in the Lone Star State within the swampy area of Caddo Lake and the Big Cypress Bayou. It was accessible by boat for vessels coming from St. Louis or New Orleans. Jefferson gradually depopulated as commercial trade declined, but many buildings from its heyday remain, with 19th-century architecture that’s reminiscent of neighboring Louisiana.
This little town has a special charm—we love it!
The Excelsior House Hotel, the oldest hotel in Texas, is still in operation.
Right across the street, we discover Jay’s Gould Railroad Car, the luxurious personal carriage of businessman Jayson Gould, who invested in rail development. At the time of our visit, the carriage isn’t open for tours, so we just walk around it and peek inside.
One of our favorite spots is the Jefferson General Store, which offers absolutely everything imaginable—from groceries to souvenirs, toys, and beauty products. The decor is busy but stylish, and you can even grab a coffee while playing checkers!
The First National Bank, another remarkable building.
We take a quick detour to Oakwood Cemetery before continuing toward Uncertain, which borders Caddo Lake. Some towns still have decorations from the Fourth of July.
And here we are in Uncertain, where I’d read it was possible to rent canoes to explore the heart of the bayous. But the dock is deserted, so we walk along the lake looking for a canoe rental. No luck—the two places I’d noted, which dated from before COVID, no longer exist.
We head back to the dock, where the view is promising!
Then we see a guy arrive in his massive 4x4 and launch his boat. We obviously ask if he offers tours or knows someone who rents canoes. He explains he’s in charge of cleaning the bayou and doesn’t offer any tourist services.
So we continue our search in another area. Here are some roadside scenes! It’d be best not to get a flat tire, because we’re not entirely sure if the area is safe!
At a small shop, the lady points us to the only address around: Johnson's Ranch Marina, which rents out canoes. The manager offers us two options: a one-hour motorboat ride for $35 per person or a whole afternoon in a fully equipped canoe for $35 per canoe. We obviously go for the second option—it’s more fun and lets us enjoy the lake longer!
Maxime and Rachel take a two-person canoe, while Laeti, Tim, and I squeeze into a three-person one. No way am I bringing my smartphone with all my banking apps, but we take the risk of bringing the DSLR.
We start our adventure at 1:30 PM and have three hours, since we *have* to be back by 5:00 PM. Launching goes smoothly, but we need a little time to sync up with the paddles!
Navigation isn’t tricky—the lady at the front desk gave us a map with different routes, and numbered stakes help us find our way through the maze of canals. After crossing the main canal, we take a narrower one.
We’re instantly charmed—what tranquility, what peace! Absolute silence, broken only by the sound of paddles in the water.
The inner area offers a clearer view of Caddo Lake and its iconic cypress trees.
Every now and then, we hear the distant hum of a motorboat in the main canal or the cry of a bird we’ve startled. We’re so glad we chose the no-motor option...
Even if it’s not super obvious in the photos, small posts placed regularly along the route help with navigation.
Since we’re moving pretty quickly, we allow ourselves to explore some side "paths." On the main loop, we pass through several areas rich with water lilies.
We just can’t get enough of these submerged cypress forests!
This larger post signals an upcoming intersection. After an hour and a half, we reach the farthest point of the loop and have the choice: return via the big, unremarkable canal or turn back.
With our arms starting to tire, we decide to play it safe and retrace our steps through the inner area of Caddo Lake, where the current is very weak. Good call—on the way back, we realize we’re slightly against the current.
We even take another detour to explore half of a new loop in an equally stunning area! Soon, it’s just the guys doing the paddling...
And we reach the dock after one last walk through the woods!
After 2 hours and 40 minutes of hiking, even at a relaxed pace, we’re all a bit tired.
But what a treat! Huge crush ❤️❤️❤️ for this excursion in such a peaceful, relaxing vibe, in such a unique setting!! We’d chosen Louisiana for the bayous, but it’s in East Texas that we’re truly blown away 😎!
Of course, we’re only at the start of our trip, but something tells us we won’t experience sensations like this in the coming days, when we find ourselves in the heavily touristed and highly recommended spots you see all over the internet. Just one or two alligators would’ve made it perfect!!!
It’s 4:30 PM when we leave Uncertain to head east toward Monroe, Louisiana. Along the way, to wrap up this amazing day, we stop in Shreveport at Texas Roadhouse. It’s only 5:30 PM when we arrive, but our stomachs are growling after just snacking at lunch and the afternoon’s exertions.
After a generous appetizer and a good sirloin steak with two sides, we’re stuffed and hit the road again until we reach the Quality Inn in Monroe.
It’s the first time I’ve managed to get such a fare—360 € per person—except back in February 2019 when I snagged CDG-SFO tickets for 250 € thanks to a great tip from Gilou on VF.
On our end, we’re too tied to a departure airport (CDG before, and now one near Alsace) and the destination we want to visit 😉 In 2023, we also got a decent fare (around 435 €), but that was thanks to using miles for 3 tickets (I didn’t have enough for the 4th one 😏), and we didn’t have a choice of airport—it was SFO or way more miles...
I’ve noticed that prices usually drop 40–80 days before departure.
I’ll keep an eye out!
What size sedan should we get to be comfortable with 5 people and luggage?
He’s not sure—there were just a few specialties he wasn’t really into.
But didn’t he have to choose by the end of his first year? A friend’s son just finished his first year, and based on his ranking, he had to pick between medicine, physiotherapy, dentistry, or pharmacy... He went with physiotherapy.
We prefer a long nap in the car to avoid paying for a hotel room for just 4 hours, and to control our departure time.
Yannick doesn’t want to bother my parents, and I don’t want to book a hotel...
If my parents drop us off around midnight, is there anywhere we can stop and rest for a bit?
When she was a young mom pushing Maxime and Rachel in a stroller, I can’t even tell you how many times strangers scolded her in the street, asking if it was really reasonable to have kids at her young age... 🤪😏 (she was 25–30, though...)
What size sedan is comfortable for 5 people with luggage?
Starting from midsize SUVs, 2 small suitcases and 2 large suitcases fit, with a little extra room for food and water.
But didn’t he have to choose at the end of the first year? A friend’s son just finished his first year, and based on his ranking, he had to choose between medicine, physiotherapy, dentistry, or pharmacy... He went with physiotherapy.
When I mentioned medicine, it’s because he’s in the "medicine" specialty, which was his top choice. If not, he would’ve gone for dentistry or pharmacy. He ended up with a high admission rank, which is why he got his summer internship in June-July with the guarantee of finishing it the day before departure. Otherwise, it would’ve been a 50/50 chance.
If my parents drop us off around midnight, is there somewhere we can settle in?
Just book the airport parking for midnight. At least it’s secure and quiet. Plus, for transatlantic flights, it fits within the 24-hour window of a paid day.
During my planning, I decided to spend a night in Monroe, which has the advantage of being close to Black Bayou Lake Wild Refuge. We left the hotel at 7 AM and arrived at the parking lot fifteen minutes later. We were alone again, but given the early hour, we weren’t expecting a crowd!
In front of the parking lot, there’s the ranger’s house and a large building that must be used for conferences.
After a 10-minute walk through the woods, we reached a dock overlooking Black Bayou Lake.
The different views of the lake are stunning thanks to the soft morning light, though the trees are sparse and far less photogenic than the ones at Caddo Lake the day before. Without many trees, we enjoyed the blooming water lilies in the serene atmosphere and took pleasure in watching the few birds that landed on the surrounding trees.
A beautiful bird striking a pose for us.
Again and again, those water lilies we never get tired of.
We then completed the second part of the loop through a swampy forest where the waters were covered in moss and duckweed.
Next, we headed to Natchez, with some typical Southern houses.
Our first stop was the Historic Natchez Cemetery, which is so vast that it’s possible—and recommended—to visit by car. No photo can truly capture the immensity of the site!
Some of the isolated or lined-up trees along the paved paths are remarkable.
Near the public cemetery, there’s also a military cemetery with rows of tombstones that create a striking visual effect.
Back in town, we set out to find the first historic home on our itinerary.
Natchez is the oldest settlement built on the banks of the Mississippi. Its strategic location made it an important port for cotton shipments, as evidenced by the lavish mansions we’re about to visit. Unlike other cities, the old plantation houses were preserved during the Civil War because the city quickly surrendered to Union troops.
We’re welcomed by a charming team of elderly ladies who share their passion for this luxurious mansion. Completed in 1857, this white stucco palace is impressive, especially with the four Corinthian columns on the main façade.
Admission is $25 for adults and $20 for teens aged 13 to 17. Since we’re the only ones there, we get a private guided tour. The guide gives us fascinating details about a multitude of furniture, objects, and paintings, as well as the successive owners.
We’re blown away by the 16-foot-high ceilings and the opulence of the furnishings and décor!
The bedrooms still feature canopy beds, which were more practical for hanging mosquito nets.
After an hour-long fascinating tour, we take a little stroll outside. It’s impossible to sit on the wrought-iron benches for more than 10 seconds—they’re scorching in the blazing sun.
We deliberately skip Longwood—it’s impressive from the outside, but the interior was never finished and tends to leave visitors wanting more.
The second historic house visit is Rosalie Mansion.
While waiting for the guided tour to start, we walk around the manor.
When we rest on the benches under the main façade’s portico, we discover a stunning view of the Mississippi River, which once prompted Union General Walter Gresham to requisition the home during the war. Thanks to his kindness, the owners of Rosalie were able to preserve all their belongings.
As soon as the tour begins, the guide announces that photography is prohibited, pointing at my DSLR. I obediently put it away, lens cap on, though I don’t quite understand the reason for the ban.
But as we move from room to room, I can’t resist sneaking a shot or two with my smartphone. The ceiling height, rugs, furniture, and curtains are all reminiscent of Stanton Hall, which we’d just visited.
Next, we visit St. Mary Basilica, known for its magnificent stained-glass windows.
Then, in the Natchez-under-the-Hill district, we stop by Forks of the Road Slave Market Site, where the second-largest slave market once stood. This memorial site is minimal—just a lawn and a few informational panels to ensure we don’t forget...
It’s barely 4:30 PM, but we decide to head to our hotel—or rather, our Linden Manor, a historic Bed and Breakfast.
Yes, I splurged on a charming night in one of Natchez’s authentic historic homes. You can even tour it, though the quality and richness of the furnishings seem slightly below the houses we’d just visited.
When the manager shows us our suite—two bedrooms decorated with period furniture—we’re instantly transported back in time.
To wrap up the day, since we can’t dine at Linden, we head downtown, where I found a highly rated spot on Tripadvisor: Le Pig Out Inn Barbecue. The interior décor is more cafeteria-style, with plastic trays and cutlery, but the meat is delicious and easy on the wallet!
Now, we’re ready to sleep in our beautiful historic home...
Our night in an authentic plantation house turned B&B was just perfect.
The day couldn’t start any better since we were invited to have breakfast in the dining room with the period furniture.
The setting is stunning, and we’ll be sharing the large table with a German family.
We’re served an excellent tart with scrambled eggs and potatoes, all accompanied by a single roll.
Once my plate was empty, I asked the others when the bread basket would arrive so I could make some buttered toast with jam. Unfortunately, nothing else was coming! That single roll was meant to cover both savory and sweet. Hmm... As a big eater, I was a bit disappointed. So, with a light stomach, we set off for the day, heading south to St Francisville.
Our first stop was supposed to be Afton Villa Gardens. The entrance looked promising, but we were quickly put off by a sign announcing it was closed. We don’t know if it’s temporary or permanent. We had to settle for a few views from the outside.
Next, we visited another plantation, Rosedown Plantation, located near St Francisville.
The paved driveway leading to it is absolutely gorgeous. We never get tired of these settings!
After parking the car, we had to walk about 400 meters through a beautiful wooded park to reach the restored neoclassical-style mansion.
Inside, the original furniture has kept its initial placement.
A unique Dufour wallpaper covers the entrance wall. In the dining room, Baccarat crystal chandeliers and fine china are set on a massive table. The guide explains that the rope above the table was used to call the enslaved people.
In the bedrooms, you can admire the richness of the curtains, Aubusson carpets, embroidery, and rosewood furniture in the Gothic style.
After the guided tour, we made sure to stroll through the French-style gardens.
Many boxwoods, typical of this type of garden, are really not in great shape.
The main alley is majestic, as is the case for many plantations.
At lunchtime, we look for a bit of shade and have a picnic in a city park.
We then stroll through downtown St. Francisville, which I expected to be bigger and more interesting to explore.
We make our way to Grace Episcopal Church and its adjoining cemetery, where we find the graves of the Turnbull family, owners of Rosedown House & Plantation. The guide had just told us their story and the tragedies that befell them.
Due to the closure of Afton Villa Gardens and the lack of things to see in St. Francisville itself, we have time to check out Cat Island Wildlife Refuge—a Plan B I couldn’t find any info on.
Along the long trail that cuts through the area, the only observation spot we find is this muddy ditch where a few birds, some waders, and some pigs (way off in the distance, barely visible even with binoculars) are hanging out. A little further on, we’re lucky enough to catch a quick glimpse of a deer.
When we reach the end of the trail, we turn back. On the way, we’re intrigued by a tiny parking lot with a sign announcing a remarkable tree. The distance to reach it is only 800 meters.
However, as soon as we get out of the car, I’m met with some reluctance because of the overwhelming heat. Since it’s the last activity of the day, we eventually brave the trail in the scorching, humid Louisiana summer weather.
We then unexpectedly discover the largest bald cypress in the United States!
You can really see its size compared to us in the photo!
Next, we head to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, which we’re scheduled to visit in a week. Tonight, we just stop for a fast-food dinner at Wendy’s to finally try the burger that was voted the best in the U.S.!
Well, honestly, it wasn’t great! We’re all a little disappointed—it’s basically just a Big Mac with a slice of bacon. We make up for it with refill drinks since it’s so hot that we end up drinking more than we should, mistakenly thinking it’ll help...
Our hotel is the Quinta by Wyndham, but when we arrive, the receptionist can’t find us in her system. I show her our booking confirmation, so she keeps searching... and eventually calls the main office. They tell her there *is* a reservation under our name—but at the other Quinta Inn, 15 km further east!!
I must’ve been a little careless during my prep and picked the wrong hotel. Thankfully, it all worked out. Twenty minutes later, we’re in our room, quickly changing into swimsuits to cool off in the hotel’s spa and pool! 😊
We wake up at dawn because nearly 3 hours of driving await us to reach Mobile, Alabama.
Like New Orleans, the city of Mobile has a rich Francophone history, as it was the first capital of French Louisiana. It was even the first French city on the Gulf of Mexico and served as a major commercial and military port during the colonial period.
We start our visit at Fort Condé, but the main gate is closed with no information about opening hours. So, we have to settle for a few snapshots from the outside.
Spared by natural disasters, the downtown area has many Antebellum houses and wrought-iron balconies, just like in New Orleans. A stroll through the Bienville Historic District, the historic neighborhood, is quite pleasant.
The most beautiful buildings are located on Dauphin Street, with a mix of historic houses and more modern structures.
After reading glowing comments in various blogs, I expected to see many more beautiful mansions, like in the French Quarter of New Orleans, which we’ll discover in a few days. We were a bit disappointed, and the heat didn’t motivate us to explore every street in the downtown area more thoroughly.
We stop at the Cathedral Basilica of the Immaculate Conception, a Roman Catholic cathedral dating back to 1850. An interior staircase leads to a lavish room covered in magnificent marbles of all colors.
Next, we head west to the Oakleigh Historic District, which is full of Antebellum-era houses.
I suggest visiting the Richards-DAR House Museum to the family, but after seeing so many plantation-era homes already, everyone prefers to cut the downtown visit short to get started on the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park as soon as possible—the highlight of the day!
At the entrance, we stop at a memorial for the victims of the Korean War.
The sprawling site features about thirty historic aircraft, each more impressive and unique than the last.
As a little preview, we check out some military equipment: planes, tanks, missile launchers...
Before starting the tour of the famous battleship, we walk to the end of the pier for a panoramic view of the USS Alabama.
After paying for our tickets, more stunning examples of aircraft, seaplanes, helicopters, and other military vehicles await us in a massive exhibition hall.
Following the signs, we came across the USS Drum, not the Alabama! The USS Drum is a submarine also dating from World War II.
In my prep, I’d missed that the entry ticket also let us visit a submarine ! What a great surprise—it’s a first for all of us!
The inside of the submarine is perfectly maintained, making the visit totally immersive. We’re all impressed by the multitude of equipment and the space optimization. We still wonder how a crew of several dozen men could live completely self-sufficiently for weeks.
We even get to go up to the upper level to the periscope.
After this captivating visit lasting nearly an hour, it’s time for the star of the day!
Launched in 1942, the impressive battleship USS Alabama served in both the Atlantic and Pacific Oceans during World War II. Over the course of the 9 battles it won, the USS Alabama shot down 22 enemy planes and took part in 6 land bombardments.
This warship, capable of carrying over 1,500 sailors, is so huge that we don’t know where to start the tour! A paper guide with numbers helps create a "school-like" route. But we spent so much time in the USS Drum, and it’s already 3 PM, with the site closing at 5 PM.
We decide to explore by feel, starting with the exterior.
The 40 cm turrets are just mind-blowing!!
You almost feel like you’re there... even if we’re much better off in 2023...
Back inside, with dozens of restored rooms and engine rooms just like they were back then.
The interior is structured like a real small town, with all the services and medical care needed for the sailors.
In the dormitory rooms, few beds have been preserved. Too bad—we would’ve loved to be amazed by hundreds of stacked bunk beds crammed next to each other!
We also take the chance to climb to the upper levels to reach the highest point open to visitors. From there, we can get close to all the light and heavy artillery!
We’ve been at Memorial Park for 3.5 hours—time flew by, and we would’ve gladly stayed another hour! But the site’s closing, so we head back to our car to continue our drive to Florida, heading toward Pensacola.
After an hour on the road and a few small traffic jams near Pensacola, we settle into our Airbnb rental. The heat is quite humid, typical of the Gulf of Mexico at this time of year, and thankfully, we’ve got AC to cool off a bit.
No one feels like going out tonight, so we grab a few groceries at Walmart and have a quiet dinner at home.
Well, Guillaume! You're starting a new travel journal and you didn't say anything
I'll still follow it with great interest because I don't know these regions except for Florida 😉.
But the major attraction in the Stockyards district is the famous longhorn parade
Those horns are impressive! Don't they hurt each other when they're in herds?
Only Laetitia is taking the guided tour. Since no other family member has seen a single episode of the series, we decide to skip this visit, which holds no interest for us, and wait for her for an hour.
What do you mean? You haven't watched *Dallas*? Oh right, you might be a bit young 😉
But what a treat! Huge crush for this excursion in a zen, relaxing atmosphere, and in a unique setting!! We chose Louisiana for the bayous, and it's in East Texas that we're truly amazed 😎 !
In any case, your photos really make me want to go. I love this vibe.
When the manager shows us our apartment, made up of two bedrooms decorated with period furniture, we immediately immerse ourselves in the past.
There weren’t any period costumes to borrow... the photo would’ve looked more authentic
Actually, even though you were really hot, it’s still great to be regularly alone at the sites.
Now that I’ve caught up, I’m waiting for the next part
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
Welcome Isabelle! It’s true, I could’ve added a note at the end of the previous travel journal, especially since these states are less "glamorous" than Utah or Arizona and don’t spark as much excitement. Maybe once you’ve visited these areas, you feel like you’ve seen enough and don’t feel the need to return...
Those horns are impressive! Don’t they get hurt when they’re in herds?
From what little we saw of them moving in herds or in pens, each longhorn seemed aware of how cumbersome they were, and the cows kept a good distance from each other.
Even though you were really hot, it’s still amazing to be alone at the sites so often.
We were definitely far from the tourist highways like national parks, New York, or Florida during peak season. Hardly any French people around, except during the guided tour (in French) of Laura Plantation, where there were more French speakers from other places—Belgians, Swiss, even Quebecois! Unthinkable in the American West!
Pensacola is the westernmost city in Florida. The vibe here is different from the other regions we’ve passed through so far. During my planning, I was particularly drawn to photos of the white-sand beaches at Pensacola Beach and the laid-back atmosphere that seemed to radiate from the city.
Our goal for these two days is to see if we could envision a future 3-week trip dedicated solely to Florida. The plan for the next two days is light: beach, relaxation, more beach, and exploring the city of Pensacola...
For those of us who aren’t huge fans of the ocean, spending two full days on the coast is going to be a real challenge! After sleeping in, we hit the road connecting Pensacola to the Pensacola Beach peninsula.
At the end of the nearly 6 km-long bridge, we’re hit with a nasty surprise: a toll booth where it’s impossible to pay by card or cash. Only a Toll Pass is accepted, and of course, I’d declined the rental company’s offer when they asked if I needed one. I’d read on some Facebook groups about travelers who weren’t prepared and ended up getting hit with $50–60 penalties on top of the $1–2 toll. So when I planned today’s route, I looked into whether there’d be a toll and read on a recent blog that you could pay in cash... Lesson learned: it’s best to check multiple sources!
We park just before the toll booth, and I get out of the car to look for someone who might help or a QR code to pay online. But I find nothing and no one, so we end up driving through and passing the cameras. We’ll see if we get an unpleasant surprise when we return from vacation.
We park as close as possible to the nearest beach to get an idea. It’s crowded, surrounded by buildings, and the water color isn’t great...
After a few minutes, we decide to go farther—much farther—to the western tip of the peninsula.
Then we arrive at a gatehouse where a guy asks for an entrance fee to access the Fort Pickens Area of Gulf Islands National Seashore. Without realizing it, we’re entering a protected area. I show him my America the Beautiful Pass from July 2022, and luckily, it’s accepted!
To get to Fort Pickens, we take a road that’s sandy in spots.
Fort Pickens is pretty sprawling, but its exterior doesn’t really tempt us to explore it further.
We continue to the end of the road and walk along the beach to find a nice spot to lay out our towels. For the first kilometer, the bay is sheltered from currents and infested with jellyfish, so there’s no way we’re risking a swim.
After a 15-minute walk, we reach an area with a current that seems safe. Worst case, there are 1 or 2 sharks waiting for us, so no big deal...
The kids have a blast paddleboarding on a board the homeowner makes available to renters.
There are a maximum of 10 people on this stretch of beach, which spans several hundred meters. Pure bliss...
After more than 2 hours, we leave the protected area to check out another beach, but we don’t linger—the sun is beating down, and we want to avoid getting badly sunburned.
After dinner, we head out to explore downtown Pensacola, which is lively on this Friday night!
07/22 - Day 8: Pensacola Beach
For our second beach day, we head to Perdido Key, ranked among the top 20 most beautiful beaches in the U.S.
This beach is 30 km from our rental. When we arrive, it’s a bit of a letdown: lots of people and huge buildings for vacation rentals. When you think that even the smallest place in the area rents for over $600 a night, it’s hard to wrap your head around...
Plus, the water color is way less appealing than yesterday. We swim anyway, but after 20 minutes, everyone’s already out. We watch the spectacle of Americans spending their time drinking beer cans in the water—almost everyone has one in hand!
Around noon, we leave the beach to grab lunch at a food truck, Al Fresco. After eating, we enjoy strolling through downtown, which has a lot of charm with its historic houses, Victorian and colonial mansions,
an Irish pub, and various quaint shops.
After dinner at home, we go out for a drink at McGuire’s Irish Pub, but the place is packed, and the wait is long for those who just want a drink. We decide to call it a night and finish our evening quietly with a beer at home.
Verdict on these two days in Florida: we all really liked the atmosphere, the city’s architecture, and the white-sand beaches, but two days were enough... A 3-week stay in Florida won’t be at the top of our U.S. wish list 😏 !
The goal for the morning is to reach New Orleans. To break up the 3-hour drive, we stop at Bellingrath Home and Gardens.
Bellingrath Gardens is a 32-hectare oasis of landscaped gardens surrounding a Mediterranean-style villa made of antique brick, built by a soft-drink magnate.
We start the visit with the rose garden. As we approach the villa, the landscaping becomes more diverse with ponds, flower-lined paths, and relaxation areas.
The villa was built along the Fowl River, where we spot a family being pulled on a giant inflatable tube.
Below the main house, a large pond invites you to stroll around or swing in a porch swing to clear your mind. Our kids aren’t really in the mood for that, though...
A little further on, we reach a boardwalk that overlooks a marshy area, which, according to the information signs, is frequented by water snakes and alligators.
All we see is a huge grasshopper and a few really ugly spiders.
We’re definitely in bayou country.
There’s also a Japanese garden, which is Japanese in name only. Really disappointing, since there are almost no plants in that section.
In the end, we found the visit to this garden rather disappointing. The photogenic and plant-rich areas are really limited. And given the almost nonexistent crowds we saw this morning, we’re thinking the financial situation isn’t going to improve...
We continue on to New Orleans. At the eastern entrance to the city, we stop for lunch at an Applebee’s, where the quality-to-price ratio is excellent, especially at lunchtime. After stuffing ourselves, we decide to take a digestive walk in NOLA. Since we’re driving, we head to City Park, a huge wooded park on the outskirts of the city.
Since it’s 3 PM, we take the opportunity to head to our BnB in the Bywater neighborhood, a working-class area a few miles from downtown. We park the car for the next two days in an inner courtyard and start unloading everything from the car—just to avoid tempting fate.
To get to the French Quarter, I downloaded the bus route map and marked the routes we’d take on maps.me. We wait at a sign for a bus stop. But after 30 minutes, it’s clear that either the route no longer exists or the stops have been moved.
After wasting so much time, we head to another bus stop on a main road, St. Claude Avenue. And bingo! After just 5 minutes, we’re on our way. It’s past 5 PM when we start wandering the streets of the French Quarter in the heavy, humid heat.
New Orleans is a legendary U.S. city, a symbol of Louisiana, located on the banks of the Mississippi. It’s known for its nightlife, live music, spicy cuisine, and especially its carnival.
We naturally start exploring the city with the French Quarter, or Vieux Carré, the original city founded by the French. I’d read that even during the day, there are jazz bands and other musicians playing in various corners of the neighborhood. So we walk down Bourbon Street, Royal Street, St. Charles Street, and Decatur Street. But there’s nothing—just the sound of cars driving by...
A little disappointing, but with the heat, it’s not surprising. We promise ourselves we’ll come back after dinner.
We make our way to the southern end of the Vieux Carré, toward Canal Street, then head toward the Mississippi. Some of the wrought-iron balconies are absolutely stunning.
We really wanted to see the paddle steamers from Tom Sawyer’s era, and we’re thrilled—there are several docked along the banks. I’d considered taking one of the pricey cruises, but after watching a few YouTube videos, I realized the scenery along the Mississippi’s banks wasn’t worth the cost.
Since the view of the boat is actually prettier from the shore, the only real draw of the excursion is the jazz concert performed by the onboard musicians. We arrived a good half-hour early, so we got to enjoy the start of the show 😎, and then we soaked in the sight as the different boats began their rounds.
As night falls, we head back to Bourbon Street for a cocktail while strolling through the now-infamous street. The vibe is lively and fun, but honestly, it wasn’t what I’d imagined we’d experience here!
After dark, people really let loose—many have a beer or cocktail in hand, and each bar has its own band to draw in customers. Some singers are fantastic, while others wouldn’t make it past the *The Voice* auditions...
By the end of the evening, we walk up Canal Street to catch our bus back to our BnB.
For our second day, we have a meet-up at 11 AM for a guided tour of Beauregard-Keyes House with a French-speaking guide.
Since this historic home is located in the French Quarter, that’s where our morning begins.
To get to Jackson Square, we pass by LaBranche House, arguably the most photographed house in New Orleans, even if it’s not at its best in the morning backlight.
Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral, where we appreciate both the cool air and the quality of construction.
On the way to Chartres Street
Here we are in front of BK House, which is closed to the public according to a sign on the gate. At the exact time of the tour, with still no guide in sight, we start to doubt. So we "force" our way in, despite the sign, and discover our guide was waiting inside.
To get a guided tour in French, you must make a special request on the website, as it’s an independent guide who steps in. The most surprising part is that the price is the same as for the standard tours in English.
The guide, an American woman in her fifties, explains she spent a year in France during her studies, which is why she still has a good grasp of French despite the years...
The tour is fascinating, more for the striking historical details of BK House and New Orleans than for the richness of the furniture and decor.
A French-style garden adjoins the main house
After lunch at an excellent pizzeria, U Pizza, near the Garden District, we start exploring this second neighborhood, which contains many pre-Civil War homes built by Anglo-Saxon immigrants in the mid-19th century.
Neo-Greek and Italianate styles dominate the area, but you’ll also find many homes with the famous wrought-iron balconies. Several are undergoing restoration.
We would’ve loved to stop for dinner at Commander’s Palace, NOLA’s best restaurant, but a dress code is required... and likely a well-stocked bank account too!
Right across the street is Lafayette Cemetery No. 1, but all the gates are locked, and unfortunately, no opening hours are posted. It seems COVID put an end to public access. We figure it’s no big deal since we’re planning to visit St. Louis Cemetery No. 1 tomorrow morning.
I manage to snap a quick shot through the gate
We continue our stroll through the area bounded by St. Charles Avenue, Jackson Avenue, Magazine Street, and Louisiana Avenue.
By 4 PM, everyone’s exhausted, so we decide to head back to our place to rest and have dinner.
In the evening, we take another walk through the heart of the French Quarter, stopping by Frenchmen Street to listen to the different styles of music played in the bars.
After breakfast, we head to St. Louis Cemetery, which we plan to explore thoroughly. But when we arrive, a security guard blocks the entrance and demands $20 per person to enter, with a mandatory guided tour! No way are we paying $100 to wander around a cemetery. Maybe business is business, but we’re not contributing to that—and we decide to boycott the visit.
Right next to the cemetery is Louis Armstrong Park, where we take a short stroll.
We then return to Jackson Square to visit the Presbytère, which was closed the day before (Monday). The ticket agent offers us a combo ticket with the 1850 House & Museum, which we gladly accept.
The ground floor of the Presbytère is dedicated to a fascinating exhibit on Hurricane Katrina, featuring numerous videos, testimonies, analyses of the disaster’s causes, and explanations of the massive reconstruction efforts since then to prevent such a catastrophe from happening again.
The upper floor is all about Mardi Gras, showcasing a great collection of costumes, artifacts, and floats!
Next up is the 1850 House & Museum, also bordering Jackson Square. The house is small and less lavishly furnished than the other historic homes we’ve visited, so we’re a bit underwhelmed.
That said, the visit is still interesting for those who’ll only be in New Orleans and won’t see all the colonial houses.
Afterward, we take another walk through the French Quarter. The heat is draining, and it kills our desire to explore the Marigny neighborhood!
Another evening in the French Quarter—no surprises—trying to find streets with atmosphere, but we inevitably end up back in the touristy areas...
Our three days in New Orleans left us with mixed feelings. We really feel like we missed out on the experience.
I reread the intro of the *Guide Vert* that had me so excited: "music on every street corner, a joyful and laid-back vibe, exuberant colonial architecture, countless musicians and jazz clubs creating a unique atmosphere, high-quality museums, gourmet cuisine, and the irresistible charm of its old Creole neighborhoods."
Except for the French Quarter’s architecture, we felt like we didn’t experience what was promised—probably due to the summer season and the intense, humid heat at this time of year.
A real FLOP for us, and I regret spending three days here. Two would’ve been enough in the summer...
We’re all buzzing with excitement for the day ahead—it promises to be one of the longest and most memorable of the trip. We’re hitting the Plantation Road, and we’ve already maxed out the credit card with visits to three major plantations along the River Road.
At 6:30 AM, we leave New Orleans without a second thought, heading west.
The Plantation Road is one of the most stunning collections of antebellum homes in the South, winding through the cotton-rich region. These luxurious estates, lined with centuries-old oak trees, flourished before the Civil War, built on the labor and suffering of countless enslaved people.
Our first stop of the day is a quick visit to Destrehan Plantation,
followed by a second stop at Evergreen Plantation, which we were determined to see—even if just from a distance—since it was the filming location for Tarantino’s *Django Unchained*.
Along the way, sugarcane fields stretch endlessly...
The road alternates between beautiful antebellum mansions and petrochemical plants and refineries that have taken over the area, earning it the grim nickname "Cancer Alley" due to toxic emissions.
A church with a pretty cemetery, and that thick, soft grass typical of Louisiana lawns.
By 8 AM, we’re at Oak Alley Plantation right as it opens, famous worldwide for its alley of 28 three-hundred-year-old oak trees. One of the best photo ops is at the gate—no entry fee required.
The plantation isn’t open to the public yet, and the gardener takes advantage of the quiet to perfectly manicure the lawn.
We wait about fifteen minutes until the doors open, then start our visit in the slave quarters.
Some of the cabins have been restored to show what life was like for enslaved families, and several personal stories are shared.
We then follow a path shaded by another row of oaks to reach the main house, where our guide is waiting.
Since the tour doesn’t start until 9 AM, we take the time to admire the legendary alley up close!
A few of the oaks look a bit worse for wear, but the scene remains breathtaking!
All this beauty tends to immerse us in the romance, Creole culture, and past grandeur—but it’s impossible to forget that this splendor was built on slavery and the deaths of thousands of Black people.
A short break in the shade on the covered terraces of the neoclassical-style house, surrounded by 28 columns—matching the number of oak trees in the alley.
At 9 AM sharp, the tour begins. The guide announces that photos are forbidden inside. We’re not sure why, since the interior is pretty average and doesn’t seem worth capturing. Still, like in other period homes, we’re impressed by the height of the windows and ceilings, which helped with ventilation. The thick walls also provided some relief from the heat.
Add to that the guide’s sleep-inducing recitation of a script we already have in French, and it’s clear why the garden-only ticket is only slightly cheaper than the full guided tour!
The highlight of the visit? The five-star view of the stunning gardens!
After the tour, we take another full lap around the gardens, which only cover a tiny fraction of the plantation’s original 450 hectares. Another angle of the villa, symbolizing the extravagant opulence of the old plantations!
The second stop on the itinerary is Laura Plantation, and every day there’s a guided tour in French at 11 AM, 1 PM, and 3 PM.
We arrive well ahead of time and wait calmly alongside Quebecers, Belgians, Swiss, and, of course, French folks.
The guide who’ll take us through Creole Plantation—later renamed Laura Plantation—is French and originally from the Bordeaux region.
Right off the bat, he shows us the main house, built in Creole style and raised to protect against rising waters. The building was constructed in just 11 days by a Senegalese slave, and it doesn’t exactly "wow" from the outside.
But we quickly discover where the real interest of the guided tour lies. Unlike our recent experience at Oak Alley Plantation, here the guide tells us in minute detail the story of four generations of free and enslaved members of a Creole family from Louisiana.
The family saga, brilliantly recounted by our guide, was reconstructed from Laura Locoul’s memoirs and numerous archival documents that tell the story of one of Louisiana’s oldest French families.
The different families across several generations didn’t exactly live in luxury, as each generally had only one large living space. The interior is very well maintained, and the guide beautifully recounts the history of almost every object or photo!
We also visit the outbuildings and exterior structures, including the slave cabins. The guide’s narrative focuses not only on the history of the Duparc and Locoul families but also on the stories of some of the enslaved people.
In one of the cabins, we see an authentic register listing the value of each slave according to their category. But our guide’s fascinating account doesn’t just detail the period of slavery—it also covers the very long post-Civil War era, with all the challenges of a society where everyone was now supposed to be free.
The tour lasted nearly two hours, and we didn’t even notice the time passing, the guide was so immersive. Without a doubt, it was one of the most beautiful experiences of our trip and certainly one of the best historical tours in Louisiana.
After leaving a generous tip, we buy Laura’s memoirs—in French—which is a translation of the original, surprisingly written in English, even though Laura was perfectly fluent in French.
All these adventures left us hungry, so we head to Outback, an excellent steakhouse chain, for lunch.
The afternoon is already well underway when we arrive at Houmas House. The property takes its name from the Houmas Indians, who originally lived on this land along the Mississippi. At the time, it was the largest sugar producer in America, with 9,000 hectares of sugarcane plantations and 800 slaves keeping the operation running!
After reading during my prep that the most remarkable part of the plantation was its stunning gardens—far more than the interior—we decide to buy only the "Houmas Garden" ticket.
We start the visit with some lovely views of the neoclassical-style house.
The water lily ponds, ancient oaks, and benches invite us to wander... or maybe it’s the huge steaks we ate less than an hour ago!
Then, we reach an area with antique statues, azalea groves, and water features. Everything is gorgeous!
A few Japanese-style ponds add to the changing atmosphere.
Time is ticking, and we need to reach our next home for the next four nights in New Iberia. Since self-check-in is possible thanks to a lockbox, we decide to stop by Lake Martin, where we’ve planned a boat tour in the coming days. With no offices open, we book five spots for the sunset tour through the Cajun Country Swamp Tour website.
In the meantime, we savor the last moments of this perfect day—undoubtedly the most memorable of the trip—watching the sunset from the end of the pier.
We’re even lucky enough to spot several dark shapes, their upper parts just breaking the water’s surface, moving silently without a ripple. Alligators... And in the distance, a wading bird prowls stealthily, hunting for a fish or two.
Everyone enjoys the spectacle of the sun setting peacefully behind the lake’s cypress trees.
Hi Antoine,
Thanks for the encouragement.
Weather-wise, we had 3 weeks without rain, and clouds were rare.
In Louisiana, temperatures didn’t exceed 36-37°C. The heat was humid, but not to the point of soaking our T-shirts all day or making us want to shower every 5 minutes. We found it really manageable—similar to what we experienced in the Yucatán in July. I see you were there in February, so you won’t be able to compare...
In Texas, it was hot, even very hot, especially in cities with the pavement reflecting the heat. Temperatures climbed up to 42°C, but the heat was dry.
We struggled in the middle of the day, from noon to 3 PM, and adjusted our schedule to those hours.
I’ll add that we live in the Var, so we’re used to intense summer heat, up to 38°C.
For comparison, when we were in Texas, I checked the temperatures in Arizona, around Phoenix and Tucson (on our wishlist), and the mercury hit 43-44°C! That cooled our enthusiasm, since 42°C was the limit of what our bodies could handle while still enjoying sightseeing.
07/27 - Day 13: Jungle Gardens - Tabasco Factory - Vermilionville - Lake Martin
I added Jungle Gardens to the itinerary at the last minute—it’s a huge exotic garden located on Avery Island.
Avery Island doesn’t ring a bell for most people, even though everyone’s seen the name on a label. That’s right, this island is mentioned on every bottle of Tabasco because this is where the factory that makes the world-famous hot sauce is located.
The garden was created by Edward McIlhenny, the second son of Tabasco’s founder, in the 19th century. A naturalist and explorer, he brought back hundreds of plant varieties from his many trips to China, Japan, and France.
You can tour the garden by car or on foot. To soak up the atmosphere better, we decided to walk the few kilometers of trails, despite the heat.
We started off through a stunning grove of ancient oak trees draped in Spanish moss.
A small path led us away from the main trail and into exotic vegetation. A warning sign reminded us that alligators might be around.
After about 200 meters, as we walked along a marshy area, Laetitia suddenly stopped dead in her tracks in front of what I thought was just another floating log! As we got closer, we could make out the head of an alligator, motionless just a few meters away from us!
We all froze—wondering if we were really safe or if an attack was possible!!
Anyway, we didn’t hang around and kept moving. A little further on, Maxime, who was leading the way, let out a yell. No surprise there—he hates spiders, and he’d just come face-to-face with a huge one blocking the path!
We ended up having to turn back, and after quickly passing the alligator again (still motionless, eyeing us), we rejoined the main trail.
We walked in the shade of the trees along a lagoon, always keeping an eye out for alligators.
A remarkable oak, the oldest and most impressive in the park.
We continued through tropical plants, a bamboo grove, a wisteria tunnel, and even a 12th-century Buddha at the heart of a Chinese garden before reaching the bird garden. To get there, we climbed to the top of a promontory overlooking a huge lake covered in duckweed. Online, you can find photos with thousands of birds on the various structures designed to welcome them.
We were clearly not there at the right time. With this heat, the few birds around barely flew before returning to rest in the shade of the trees.
It was already noon when we got back to the car, and then we headed to the Tabasco factory to learn all about how the famous hot sauce is made. The tour is self-guided, but the signposted route is well done with explanations all along the way.
Tabasco is made from red peppers originally from Mexico, white vinegar, and salt. In January, the seeds are planted in greenhouses, then transplanted into the fields in April.
In August, the red peppers are harvested, crushed, and mixed with salt. They’re then aged for 3 years in oak barrels. The storage warehouse for these barrels is absolutely massive!
After another mix with a special salt, the mixture is bottled.
We couldn’t skip the gift shop.
During the tasting of the different varieties, we fell in love with several milder Tabasco options—green Tabasco and raspberry-flavored Tabasco. Unfortunately, the smallest bottles were all over 100 ml, and we had to settle for a classic variety available in a smaller size, which was allowed in carry-on luggage.
Next, we hit the road, heading to Vermilionville Historic Village in Lafayette. This open-air museum is located on the banks of the Vermilion Bayou and is dedicated to life in the old Cajun country.
In almost every house in the reconstructed village, actors in period costumes bring traditional crafts to life, like weaving or blacksmithing, giving us a demonstration.
The renovated buildings feature very bright colors.
The school proudly displaying an American flag.
There’s even a chance to cross the bayou on a floating dock, using a rope tied on both sides. We admire the bravery of a Quebecer who doesn’t hesitate to dip their fingers into the swampy water, which looks pretty unappetizing.
Of course, you can explore the rest of the village without making that crossing! More beautiful reconstructed houses.
We would’ve loved to stay longer, but the village closes its doors at 4 PM. We say goodbye to the actresses bringing this site to life,
Next up, Lake Martin, about fifteen miles east of Lafayette, for our tour with Cajun Country Swamp Tours. When we arrived at the boat where our guide was waiting, we realized we’d made the right call by booking ahead—the excursion was fully booked! Out of the four groups, three were French families, including a couple from an Alsatian village right next to the one where I grew up!! Small world...
We set off on our Lake Martin tour. The guide quickly took us into the calm areas of the lake, deep in the cypress forest.
And we soon spotted our first alligator, napping on a tree trunk.
With no wind, we could fully enjoy the reflection of the trees in the water. It was stunning!
The guide made sure to cut the engine whenever possible, letting us glide in silence and take the time to observe alligators, turtles, and birds... We kept passing alligators in the water or resting on tree stumps.
A section covered in algae and duckweed, but that didn’t stop us from spotting more alligators.
We honestly couldn’t get enough of the scenery—or the alligators, which I happily photographed from every angle.
As the sun began to set, we started making our way back, picking up the pace.
The guide took us to a tree with a hollow trunk that served as a refuge for birds.
And just like that, this amazing adventure came to an end—we were completely blown away!
To wrap up the day, we headed to Duffy’s Diner, one of those classic diners with red booths, checkered tile floors, and over-the-top decor. Everyone successfully tackled po’boys, delicious shrimp sandwiches.
Finally, back to our home sweet home for a night where we’d all be dreaming of alligators.
Thanks for this travel journal that goes a bit off the beaten path!
I know Texas a little, and I have to say, the photos of Caddo Lake are really tempting.
I once considered doing a little round trip between NOLA and Pensacola, but honestly, NOLA is a bit of a turn-off for me—especially since we’re not really big fans of big cities. Still, I guess you’ve got to go to form your own opinion...
On the other hand, I know Florida well (especially the southwest), and I think it’s a shame you’re sticking with the negative image of Pensacola! Florida, like any other state, can’t be summed up by just one city.
We’re not big fans of lazing around on the beach, but we love wandering the huge stretches of nearly deserted white-sand beaches, and even stopping for a while to watch pelican flights, dolphins, manatees, and countless birds.
Florida is full of hidden gems, on top of its tourist spots 😉
And as for alligators, they’re also really common in Florida—you find them pretty much everywhere... and they’re not really dangerous on land. They tend to avoid humans, and an adult isn’t part of their menu (too big). They’ll only attack to protect their young (never get between a mother and her babies!) or if they feel seriously threatened. That said, young children and dogs *can* be on the menu, especially at feeding times at dawn and dusk. And don’t forget rule #1: never swim or set foot in freshwater (or even in the less salty water of a lagoon!), because they’re everywhere, and water is their element. An adult in the water looks much smaller and more approachable 😉
As for temperatures, summer isn’t the best season because the humidity factor kicks in and really affects how hot it feels!
Anyway, can’t wait to read the rest of your adventures...
Texas en 2007 - Floride : 2013 - 2014 - 2015 - 2016 - 2018 - 2019 - 2021 - 2023 - 2025 - Montana et Wyoming : 2022 - Arizona et Utah : 2023 - Montana en 2024 - Nevada, Arizona et Utah : 2025
http://acheterenfloride.blogspot.fr/
Those alligators remind me of our walk in the Everglades 😄 we took a stroll on foot, and the alligators were just chilling right next to the path. Like you, I wasn’t reassured at all, but apparently, accidents are really rare 😊
"Voyager est un triple plaisir : l'attente, l'éblouissement et le souvenir." Ilka Chase
Hello,
Your impressions and description of Florida make me want to explore it even more! I think we’ll end up going there, maybe even including Savannah-Charleston if we have time.
Good to know all the tips about alligators 😉
The plan for the next two days is looking pretty light.
After stopping by Baton Rouge in a hurry a few days ago, we decide to spend a full day there. On the road from New Iberia to Baton Rouge, we drive past endless sugarcane fields.
Where there’s sugarcane, there are harvesting machines and processing plants.
The main attraction in Baton Rouge is the USS Kidd, the famous destroyer that survived World War II, serving in the Pacific, the Philippines, and Korea. It’s named in honor of Admiral Kidd, who commanded the USS Arizona and died in combat during the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Size-wise, it’s nothing like the USS Alabama—it looks tiny in comparison! Then again, destroyers are meant to be fast and maneuverable.
We have some fun with the machine guns.
The various cannons are in excellent condition.
Besides the exterior, you can visit the interior facilities, like the engine room, kitchen, mess hall, and cabins.
The weapons stockpile.
After touring the ship, we spend time in the naval museum admiring model ships and several World War II planes, then head to the Louisiana State Capitol.
Louisiana's Old State Capitol, which we pass by chance without checking if it’s open for visits. Too bad, since there are exhibits on Louisiana’s history.
Then the modern version of the Capitol. The steps leading up to it have the names of various U.S. states engraved in capital letters.
We make sure to go up to the top floor for a panoramic view of the city. Some angles are flattering,
while others, with views of the many factories, are much less so!
The luxurious interior is filled with marbles of all colors.
From the magnificent Memorial Hall, you can access the chambers of representatives, deputies, and senators through large bronze doors.
The rest of the stroll through downtown Baton Rouge isn’t particularly interesting. The scorching heat doesn’t encourage us to explore other parts of the city, especially since most sites close by 4 PM. We prefer to head back quietly to our house, stopping in Saint-Martinville along the way.
After another dinner at Duffy's Diner, we end our evening by opening a bottle of pecan liqueur bought at Laura Plantation. We’ll have to finish it before the end of our trip!
07/29 - Day 15: Houma - Cajun Man's Swamp Tour
For our last day in Louisiana, we head to Houma for one final boat tour in the bayous.
While waiting for our tour time, booked by phone, we stop by the Bayou Terrebonne Waterlife Museum.
Taking our time and reading all the panels explaining Cajun life, we spend... 20 minutes there! The most impressive thing is a stuffed alligator. 🤪
Next, we head to the meet-up point listed on the Cajun Man's Swamp Tour website. The guy had really stressed over the phone that he wanted to be paid in cash. However, after miscalculating, I realize just minutes before departure that I’m a bit short. Luckily, I manage to negotiate a card payment with the parking lot manager.
This time, we’re about thirty people on a large boat, and our guide is a real showman.
After a few minutes of explanations about the tour and safety, we leave the dock. We quickly spot a few birds, but the scenery doesn’t feel like a bayou at all. It’s a huge canal lined with trees, nothing like the atmosphere at Lake Martin or even better, Caddo Lake.
Very quickly, I realize I should’ve looked into what the tour actually included. After barely traveling 400 meters in the main canal, we see an alligator heading straight for us—way too determined to be a coincidence.
No doubt about it, it’s coming for the food... The feeding show is about to begin.
Apparently, we’re the only ones on the boat who are bothered by this. Everyone else came for exactly this!!
4.9 on Tripadvisor...
The very wide canals follow one after another, without us winding through the submerged cypress trees.
And every 10 minutes, the guide calls the alligators, who show up immediately for lunch. In nearly 3 hours, we fed about twenty alligators begging for chicken scraps!!
The guide asks tourists one by one if they want to feed the alligators by holding the stick with a hook.
For great photos, it’s easy—given how many chances I had to try again...
Ah... we finally reach a more photogenic area, and we’re lucky enough to spot some large birds!
Toward the end of the 3-hour tour, we get some lively Cajun music, and our guide puts on a real show!
In the end, we’re pretty mixed about the fact that none of the alligator encounters were natural. We seemed to be the only ones bothered by this. Still, the guide deserves credit for keeping the energy up for 3 hours and making the tour super lively.
An experience worth trying, but be warned—it’s more like visiting an alligator zoo...
Today, we’re leaving Louisiana and its stifling heat behind to return to the cooler Texas weather. Well, that’s the plan, anyway!
We’ve got about a 4-hour drive ahead of us, following the coast to our morning destination: Galveston, a seaside city known for its quality of life—translation: its wealth.
By 7 AM, we’re already on the road. After endless straight stretches heading due west, we merge onto the coastal route, where we’re blown away by the houses on stilts—even entire villages on stilts. It’s pretty incredible, and hard to believe the water could rise that much during a storm or hurricane!
Most of the houses are built in their own unique style, but you can also spot "row" villas with matching colors and layouts.
At the end of Route 87, we reach Port Bolivar, where the ferry terminal is located for the 3 km crossing of Galveston Bay.
After waiting for over an hour to board the ferry, we cross the bay to Galveston, accompanied by seagulls scavenging for bits of bread.
In Galveston, we park on a street near Bishop’s Palace. This is the kind of mansion you’ll find around here—and it’s easy to see why people love living in this area!
Sacred Heart Catholic Church, a luxurious and unexpected church with an oriental style.
We would’ve loved to visit, but it was closed.
So, we just cross the street to start our tour of Bishop’s Palace, a lavish Victorian-style home dating back to the late 19th century. The audio guide tells us it was once the residence of the archbishop of the Galveston diocese.
An architectural marvel...
Built with colorful, carved, and engraved stone, this home’s interior is as grand as its exterior. Inside, you’ll find a vast living room furnished with rare woods, Murano glass chandeliers, and stained glass. Constructed between 1886 and 1892 under the direction of Nicholas Clayton, the building was inspired by French castles.
There’s even a prayer room!
The most photogenic part of the house is its monumental spiral staircase, highlighted by the massive wood, intricate carvings on the railings and walls, and its stained glass. Every angle reveals its beauty!
After this fascinating visit, we stroll through Galveston Historic District, which spans about thirty blocks and features some of the most beautiful Victorian homes in Galveston. It’s one of the loveliest cities we’ve visited!
We head down to the port, where we spot a few pelicans napping or preening.
We head down to the port, where we spot a few pelicans napping or preening.
We can’t help but laugh seeing all the birds searching for the tiniest patch of shade! When it comes to midday heat, it feels like being fully dressed in a sauna!
In the late afternoon, we check out Tiki Island—a sort of Port Grimaud, but American-style. Everything’s over the top!
Each villa has a façade facing the canals that lead to the Gulf of Mexico. Still, we don’t see many docked boats.
We don’t have time to visit Moody Mansion, so we head back to our hotel, Crystal Suites, for just one night.
For dinner, we "settle" for a triple burger at Whataburger with the classic Dr Pepper! !
Hi there. I’m jumping in on this off-the-beaten-path travel journal.
07/25 - Day 11: New Orleans
Our three days in New Orleans were pretty mixed. We really felt like we missed out on the experience.
A total FLOP for us, and I regret spending three days there. Two would’ve been enough in the summer...
I had the same feeling (and we only stayed two full days). What I took away from our trip was the boat ride in the bayou (not through Cajun Country) where it was just the two of us, the Cajun hospitality, and the plantation route.
And I’m jealous of your canoe trip! 🙂
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If I close my eyes and think of the Sultanate of Oman, I first smell a light scent of incense, feel the warmth of a sunbeam on my skin, before sand slips through my fingers. I taste the sweetness of a date, a real candy, then the flavor of coffee with a hint of cardamom and rosewater... I hear the desert wind whistling in my ears, the distant call of a muezzin, then the murmur of water. I open my eyes to see smiles, welcoming gestures, a turquoise sea, rocks ranging from ochre to purple, deep wadis where torrents burst forth, orange dunes, white sandy beaches where tiny crabs scurry at full speed. I see incredible oases emerging between arid mountains. I see abandoned villages that I’d dream were full of life, imposing fortresses overlooking valleys, and lively souks where offers are delicate and negotiation is a mutual courtesy.
All that, and so much more.
This is what I tried to capture in my illustrated travel journal, which I’ll fill in here and there with photos.
I drew this journal “cold,” after my return (actually, I made it this summer, while our trip was last winter). It’s a pretty special format—I bought it in Japan without really knowing what I’d do with it. Well, it found its purpose! Below is a photo of this accordion-style journal: here, it’s only partially open, because when fully unfolded, it’s 5 meters long!
For drawing enthusiasts: The accordion format is both a constraint (each sheet is 9 cm x 27 cm) and a freedom (you can create a fresco). The paper is also a bit special: it doesn’t allow for fine lines, but it takes ink well (liner pen). However, everything has to be done almost in one go (with a very light pencil sketch) because it erases poorly. It absorbs too much water for coloring with markers or watercolors (unless you avoid soaking it), but it works well with oil pastels and their use with a brush and solvent. Since it’s yellowish, it allowed me to create contrasts even with white pastel.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Oman is one of the world’s largest producers of frankincense resin. Incense burners are everywhere, from the simplest clay ones to the most precious handcrafted silver ones...
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
After as many weeks as I have fingers on my right hand, we're hitting the road again, fully recovered from our pharaonic adventure. Back in France to drop off our daughters (sorry, girls!), this time it's just the two of us, ready to be welcomed by a new destination. They say it offers one of the richest cultural heritages in the world for those willing to put in the effort. It's the land of the ancient Silk Road, where we'll follow a journey steeped in history and discoveries straight out of *One Thousand and One Nights*. A former Soviet bloc region independent only since 1991, we'll be walking in the footsteps of Genghis Khan, Tamerlane, Alexander the Great, Marco Polo...
Another fun fact about this country: it's strictly forbidden to import porn on your phone. True story. The same goes for painkillers! Unless it's about sodomy—though the two don’t seem connected, that’s just how it is. Don’t ask me why! Anyway, I’m getting off track. Here’s the big question: Where do you think we’ve just landed?... To give you a hint, the locals are known for being incredibly welcoming. No sooner said than done—our first taxi driver, proud to transport French travelers, refused to let us pay for the ride. Great vibes for these two weeks ahead. So, any guesses?
Uzbekistan!!!
"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"
Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.
Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!
And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?
Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.
And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!
Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!
What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...
"How about a Christmas market this year, huh? A little romantic weekend getaway...
- Yes! That’d be cool! Strasbourg? Colmar?
- Feels a bit déjà vu, doesn’t it? Plus, slim chance of snow there... And I’d love something a bit more exotic with a touch of originality..."
"Okay, Google, give me the list of the five most beautiful Christmas markets in Europe.
- In fifth place, the Christmas market in Vilnius, the capital of Lithuania.
- Save your breath! Lithuania, here we come!"
We wanted cold, and cold is exactly what we got the moment we set foot in this new, unknown land. As for landscapes, forests and lakes stretch as far as the eye can see across this vast plain, its vegetation scorched by the frost of a winter that’s clearly already well underway here.
Lakes, in fact, set the scene for our first visit to Trakai Castle, whose brick-red towers and walls rise proudly against the azure sky of our first day. Lakes, because this castle was built on an island and is only accessible on foot via a series of walkways spanning half-frozen lake offshoots. I couldn’t have picked a better spot to build my castle! Translation: We’re totally sold! Proof is we spend two hours hiking around the area, alternating between forests, reeds, and cozy houses tastefully decorated for Christmas.
I’m sharing a little recap of this new 4-week trip to China—nothing fancy, just my experience.
We’re taking advantage of the extended visa exemption to return to China for the 4th time. I loved last summer’s trip so much that I’m a bit worried about being disappointed this year. Plus, I’ve had a few hiccups before this departure: my WeChat account got blocked, and I couldn’t recover it (luckily, Alipay still works fine); I couldn’t verify my 12306 account for weeks; Trip.com failed to book our second train; and I’ve got an injury that’ll slow me down during the trip... Ugh, I hate starting a trip with these kinds of issues. Then, oh surprise! Just before leaving, my 12306 account got verified! Super easy to use from that point on—I could book a few train tickets without fees.
We’re sticking with Free’s e-SIMs, which work great in China.
August 2–3
Anyway, on the morning of August 2nd, we took the RER to CDG. As usual, we couldn’t check in online. It’s always a bit frustrating, especially since we didn’t have any checked luggage. We flew with Air China. We arrived at the check-in counter at 9:50 AM, 2 hours and 40 minutes before the flight. The line for our check-in stretched 300 meters across the airport in both directions. What a joke!! We spent 1 hour and 45 minutes in that line just to reach the counter and get our boarding passes. By then, it was 11:35 AM, and boarding had already started at 11:20 AM. The screens showed a 25-minute walk to our gate—on the other side of the airport, of course—plus we had to go through passport control and security... Long story short, the plane didn’t leave without us 🙂 We boarded among the last passengers, and we took off at 12:30 PM. We’d flown Air China four times before, but this time, it felt *really* low-cost. The check-in chaos, the cramped seats (12 seats per row), no music by artists known outside China, mediocre food, and a boarding area at Beijing Airport with only 10 seats—worthy of Ryanair or EasyJet. And yet, the price was sky-high. Again, D.’s vacation requests were denied outside of July and August, so we’re traveling from August 2nd to 30th. We couldn’t have picked a worse time for inflated prices, and with the situation in Iran, we got hit with a 390 € fuel surcharge. I’ve never paid so much for flights—I felt like I’d bought business class, but nope, far from it!!
We landed in Beijing around 4:15 AM. It was 28°C with thick fog. We drove and drove and drove for 20 minutes, as usual in Beijing. Then we went through a first check, a second check, a third check, and waited for our connecting flight at 6:40 AM. A small Airbus A320, but way more space than in the Boeing 777 from the first flight. We landed in Kunming, Yunnan, around 10:15 AM in the rain.
We headed to the subway. You can’t pay at the machines with Alipay here either, so we set up the transport QR code directly in Alipay to scan at the subway gates. The process is a bit long the first time if you haven’t entered your info before, but once it’s done, it’s *so* much easier! We took Line 6 to the terminus for 6 yuan each.
We’d booked a hotel nearby, on the 16th floor. It’s actually studios on different floors of a huge residential building. The view’s pretty nice from here. We settled in quickly—back to those wooden beds, or rather, mattresses as hard as wood, which we *hadn’t* missed...
Then we went out for our first bowl of noodles of the trip and wandered through the shopping streets of the old town.
It was crowded, and the weather was cool—around 19–20°C. We tried a local specialty: milk skin, thick, dried, then grilled with rose jam. Yeah... we won’t be having that again. The taste and texture of the milk skin... no thanks.
We saw a lot of wild mushroom hotpot too. It’s on our list for later. We also passed through the Jinma and Biji gates, where I played with reflections in puddles. I *love* doing that 🙂
At the end of the day, we headed to a temple advertised as open 24/7 on Amap. Of course, when we got there, it was closed. We’ll go back tomorrow. That was the first of many disappointments with Amap this trip—I hadn’t had that issue on previous visits.
We were exhausted after that sleepless flight. Night was falling, and we decided to grab a quick bite without much appetite. We shared a delicious vegetable fried rice for 12 yuan—we even left half of it. The portions are *huge*.
After a couple of small purchases, we headed back at 9 PM, wiped out, after walking 17 km between the airports and these first steps in Kunming. I expected to see quite a few Western travelers here, but we didn’t spot a single one. Instead, we met lots of curious Chinese people, many of them super friendly and helpful—almost *too* eager, like when they’d run to serve us as fast as possible. It’s a bit much, but it’s great to be back!
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation:
An ICOCA card is essential.
I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations:
Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals:
For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés.
For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen.
Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima.
Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima.
A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto.
Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi).
Tempura and gyoza.
Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal.
One omakase meal (9 different dishes).
In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef.
Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary:
Day 1: Departure from Brussels
Day 2: Arrival in Osaka
Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki
Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi
Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido
Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima
Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade
Day 8: To Miyajima
Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto
Day 10: Southern Kyoto
Day 11: Northern Kyoto
Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa
Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago)
Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima)
Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto
Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko)
Day 17: To Tokyo
Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura
Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong
Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
This time, I landed in Monastir on a direct flight from Nice, again with Tunisair. We left about ten minutes late, and the flight lasted around 1 hour 30 minutes. A meal was served on board (cucumber salad with Edam-like cheese, carrots, and two small portions of dishes I couldn’t identify—semolina with peppers, olives, and parsley, two small rolls, a square of processed cheese, and a chocolate cake). It’s worth noting because it’s not common on flights this short.
In February, France and Tunisia were in the same time zone, but now Tunisia is one hour behind. This time difference and the flight duration work perfectly for a short 15-day trip since it takes me a few days to adjust to jet lag.
Luckily, I’d asked my hotel about the taxi fare from the airport because the drivers (there were several around me) didn’t hesitate to quote outrageous prices. The actual fare is 20 dinars, but one asked for 120 dinars. I refused, and another offered 60 dinars. I replied, "That’s too expensive—I’ll take the metro!" (Having tried the Tunis metro, I had no desire to repeat the experience in Monastir with a suitcase!). I started walking toward the metro, and one of the drivers caught up with me, saying, "20 dinars is fine!" I’ll skip the details, but the negotiation took a little while.
When I arrived at the hotel, I told the receptionist someone had asked for 120 dinars. He put his hands to his head and said, "They’re awful!" He remembered our phone call two days earlier when I’d booked (he’s the one who told me I could take the metro).
The Mezri Hotel isn’t expensive. I got a sea-view room for 75 dinars (22 €). (I’d booked a balcony room for 90 dinars but wouldn’t have had time to enjoy it.) It’s well-located but noisy because there’s no double glazing.
The receptionist is a very kind older gentleman. He called a friend whose wife is from Tozeur to find out if I should take a bus or a *louage* tomorrow and what time.
I arrived at the hotel around 7:00 PM and had time to stroll along the corniche to the ribat. Despite some run-down buildings, the seaside seemed livelier and cheerier than Sousse’s.
Monastir is the hometown of former president Bourguiba. I passed his mausoleum by taxi. There are Tunisian flags along the avenue by the sea because every year on April 6—the anniversary of Habib Bourguiba’s death—the president of the Republic visits the Bourguiba Mausoleum in Monastir to pay respects.
The taxi driver mentioned other Tunisian presidents. He complained about rising prices and insecurity, blaming President Kaïs Saïed (I’d already heard that security was better under Ben Ali).
At the end of my stay, I’ll take time to explore Monastir, but tomorrow morning, I’m off to Tozeur—a long bus ride awaits me.
With my girlfriend Christelle, we’ve chosen South Africa for our first trip to Southern Africa, focusing on safaris—after a long debate with a Cape Town/Kruger combo.
But that would’ve meant cutting out St Lucia, which would’ve been harder to fit into another trip.
And St Lucia—thanks to Michel and all those travel journals—we really wanted to go there.
So our 11-night itinerary ended up like this, mostly shaped by school holidays:
- 3 nights in St Lucia
- 1 night in Hluhluwe
- 1 night at Mkhaya Game Reserve (Eswatini)
- 1 night at Hlane Royal National Park (Eswatini)
- 3 nights in Kruger (Berg en Dal / Satara / Tamboti)
- 1 night at Shindzela Tented Camp in the Timbavati private reserve
- 1 final night in Kruger at Lower Sabie
All of this in the off-season and rainy season, just a month after catastrophic floods that killed over 150 people and seriously damaged Kruger’s infrastructure.
I’ll jump straight to St Lucia and skip the loooong journey to get there (with a layover in Frankfurt, landing in Johannesburg, a domestic flight to Durban, and the rest by rental SUV—First Car Rental, perfect, no complaints).
To motivate readers—especially some familiar faces here—I’ll drop in a first photo.
Hi everyone, we're back from a DIY USA road trip we organized from July 31, 2026, to August 26, 2026.
The destination: The Southwest USA, including Texas, Arizona, and New Mexico. Roughly 7,000 kilometers covered.
The car: A Chevrolet Equinox for two, rented through BSP Auto and Avis. Inside, we had 2 suitcases, a travel bag, two carry-on bags, a Walmart cooler, photo gear, and water bottles (a 40-pack).
The route: Dallas DFW, Fort Worth, Houston, Austin, San Antonio, Alpine, El Paso, Tucson, Sedona, Albuquerque, Amarillo, and back to Dallas to finish with a departure from DFW.
The travelers: Two seniors well advanced in years (73 and 75) but still active (nothing too physically demanding—to stay alive and fund our trips), fully independent physically, though a bit less so mentally. Big USA fans, a country where anything is possible. More walkers than hikers, preferring 3-star hotels over roadside motels, Italian restaurants over US food, frequent stops for photos, museums over nothing, naps over forced marches. Not too whiny, just enough to stay French in the land of the "great Satan," as they say.
Not great with languages—street English (but handy), and my Spanish is non-existent except for: "Hola! Una cerveza por favor!" That’s about it. My wife understands everything but refuses to speak.
The cost of the road trip: Around 12,000 €, including AF flights, the car, gas, gifts, visits, and everything else. Well managed, since we’d budgeted 13,500 € initially.
The positive side: A delight, with those endless open roads. Museums to discover. The realization of the Hispanic presence and its important history in this part of America. Lovely locals. Tourists who were more or less friendly. A terrible Texan accent that was hard to understand. Gas stations that were like real stores, with prepared food, alcohol sold in Arizona and New Mexico, and employees who were always up for a laugh!
The negative side: The heat throughout the trip... 43°C in Dallas at the end. Impossible to walk the streets. Lots of homeless people in downtown Dallas. Hotel breakfasts that were always the same. You get used to it.
So, it was positive overall, but the concept is starting to wear us out. We might rethink the DIY road trip model for next time. If the man upstairs grants us more time.
Next up, we’ll wait for the first batch of sorted photos to go through the wringer.
Here we go!!!
I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.
Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.
Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.
The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.
I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.
Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).
It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.
Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.
It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.
Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.
Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.
Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.
Saturday, November 2nd
Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.
The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.
The flight goes well, and customs is quick.
At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.
The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.
The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.
The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.
At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.
The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.
At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.
Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.
The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.
The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.
My partner and I traveled from Sunday, July 5, 2026, to Wednesday, July 22, 2026.
We spent a long time debating whether to rent a car or use public transportation. In the end, after reading so many posts about travelers getting scammed by police or rental companies—even those recommended by blogs and reviews—we decided to stick with public transport. It worked out really well. Sure, we had a little less freedom to go where we wanted, but it was way less stressful for us.
Sunday, July 5:
Arrived at Cancun Airport. Withdrew cash from the ATM in the terminal just before exiting. The ADO bus counter (they pronounce it "A-Jee-O") is right behind you when you're facing the ATM. Bus to downtown Cancun cost 145 pesos per person.
Stayed at "Rose 5," booked on Booking. The studio was super clean and perfect for one night. The owner’s instructions for accessing the place were very precise, with photos included. Check-in was self-service with a code. The ADO bus terminal isn’t far, and there are shops and restaurants nearby. We really appreciated that the AC was already on when we arrived. By the way, I’d recommend always booking places with AC—it’s *really* hot in Mexico.
Monday, July 6:
Bought a SIM card with data from a TELCEL store. My partner, who’s on Free Mobile, was able to use her regular plan. Just so you know, I found the network pretty unstable. As soon as we left the cities, neither of us—me with TELCEL or her with Free—had any signal.
Another thing to watch out for: roaming charges. I had to turn my SIM back on for less than 30 seconds to get a bank SMS code, and my phone apparently connected to the internet—resulting in an 8-euro roaming fee.
Left on an ADO bus to Chiquila for 278 pesos per person. During our trip, ADO buses were always on time, comfortable, and clean. The AC is *cranked* though, so bring something to cover up with—it gets cold. Some routes were fully booked even in the low season, so try to reserve 1 or 2 days in advance either via the app (when it works) or at the counter.
When we arrived at the ADO terminal in Chiquila, the ferry company counters were right next to it. Ferries leave every 30 minutes, alternating between companies, so no need to book ahead. Just take whichever one is leaving next (330 pesos per person).
When we got to Holbox (pronounced "Hol-bosh"), we’d booked a place via Booking called "Casa de Nana." It was a huge studio with a fridge, cooking plate, and utensils. The best part? The *location*. It was 100 meters from the beach and 200 meters from a Chedraui supermarket. They provided bath towels and beach towels, and the AC worked perfectly. There’s a key box so you can leave your keys inside when you go out. The only downside was that no one was there to let us in when we arrived, so we had to wait a while. The Wi-Fi was good, which was lucky because during our 4-day stay in Holbox, the phone network *never* worked. According to locals, that’s pretty common in Holbox, along with water outages.
Luckily, I’d had the good idea to download an offline map, which helped us find our way back to the place more easily. You can walk there from the dock.
The restaurant next to our place (La Barracuda) was great if you like seafood—I’d recommend their octopus dishes.
Tuesday, July 7:
We did a kayak tour in Holbox’s mangroves at 6 AM. We were looking for a sunrise kayak tour with a French-speaking guide. That’s exactly what we got with "Kayaking Holbox," where Diego, the owner, speaks English and French. He was joined by Gustavo, another guide.
We’d booked for a group tour, but we were the only ones. Diego still went ahead with it instead of canceling due to lack of participants, so we got a private tour at the group rate—really professional of him. They showed us this amazing ecosystem for over 3 hours. We saw all kinds of birds: pink flamingos, pelicans, egrets, frigatebirds... rays, a horseshoe crab, and a little crocodile that was *so* well hidden. Diego and Gustavo have a real eye for spotting animals—I could’ve passed by the crocodile 100 times and never seen it, it blended in so well. Their explanations about the flora and fauna were super interesting. We also got a little break where we tasted mangoes and bananas that taste *nothing* like the ones in France. A real treat—those little Mexican yellow mangoes! I’d definitely recommend Diego and his agency for a French-language kayak tour (1000 pesos per person).
In the evening, we walked to Punta Coco to see the bioluminescence. No need for a guided tour—if you really don’t want to walk, you can take a taxi. At Punta Coco, you have to pass the beach bar/restaurant and then go left into a kind of inlet that forms a lagoon. You have to wiggle your feet or move your hands in the water to create movement, which makes the light appear. Just don’t expect the kind of photos you’ve seen online—they’re all edited! It’s fun to see, but you won’t be dazzled by the light...
Wednesday, July 8:
Whale shark tour with "My Holbox Tours." Why recommend this agency over others for swimming with whale sharks? Simply because Valérie surrounds herself with top professionals to make your experience unforgettable. We were with Captain Fernando, who does everything to position the boat perfectly and make your swim easier. In the water, we were with Humberto, who also goes above and beyond to make sure you have an incredible time. He doesn’t just "supervise" like some guides from other companies who leave you on your own. No, Humberto reads the whale shark’s trajectory and guides you—all you have to do is follow him. He really puts in the effort, even holding your hand to guide you through this quick but intense encounter. Humberto also films the moment and will offer to show you the videos and sell them to you. His footage is really high quality.
Fernando and Humberto also prepared food for us. Special mention for their guacamole! Valérie is there to make sure everything goes smoothly on the boat and to answer your questions in French, English, or Spanish about these animals. If you choose My Holbox Tours, you can be sure you’ll get a top-notch experience.
About the tour itself: before you go, you should know that the sharks can be *really* far away. The day we went, it took 3.5 hours by boat to reach them. The boats are small, and let me tell you—on the way there, when we weren’t going with the waves, it was *rough*. Out of 9 passengers, 4 got seasick. But once you’re face-to-face with the shark, you forget all about that. Even if swimming with a whale shark isn’t exactly a walk in the park—they swim pretty fast, so you need some endurance to keep up. You’ll usually get 2 turns. Our first swim lasted a little over 4 minutes, and the second about 2 minutes because the shark was moving fast and we were still tired from the first swim. It might seem short, but when you’re swimming, it feels *long*. Either way, it’s an experience you *have* to do—but choose your company wisely. On the way back, there’s a stop at Cabo Catoche. Honestly, the snorkeling is pretty disappointing if you’ve done it elsewhere in the world. But the lunch stop at Cabo Catoche is really nice for relaxing (white sand and hammocks).
Thursday, July 9:
Short morning walk to Punta Mosquito at 6 AM. Really nice.
Ferry to Chiquila (330 pesos per person) + ADO bus to Valladolid (300 pesos per person).
In Valladolid, we booked "Casa Lucia" via Booking. The hotel is gorgeous, with a colonial style, and very close to the ADO bus terminal and downtown. It’s super quiet and clean. There’s a shared kitchen you can use with a fridge, microwave, and water dispenser, plus a big table by the pool and a nice indoor terrace. Breakfast was simple but included. The only small downsides were the tiny room and bathroom, no mirror in the room, and a noisy fan.
Friday, July 10:
Not far from the ADO bus terminal is the colectivo station for Chichen Itza. They offer a round-trip to Chichen Itza with an option to stop at Ik Kil cenote on the way back and then drop you off in Valladolid for 370 pesos per person (Ik Kil entrance included).
For the Chichen Itza visit, we’d booked a tour with a guide often mentioned in groups—his name is Juan Pat. He’s a Maya who lives near the site and speaks excellent French. He reserves spots in advance for you and queues up to be the first on-site. It cost 500 pesos per person + entrance fees. His tour lasts 2 hours and focuses mainly on the main pyramid and the ball court. He’s passionate and fascinating, even if some of his claims, as a Maya, might be a little biased. I think it’s *really* important to have a guide—otherwise, you’ll miss so much. You can contact Juan Pat on WhatsApp at +52 985 121 2381.
Afterward, we went to Ik Kil cenote (showers and life jackets mandatory, lockers available). It’s *very* crowded, but still really beautiful with its lush vegetation.
Saturday, July 11:
Since we didn’t have a car but still wanted to visit other cenotes that seemed hard to reach by public transport, we decided to book a taxi for the day. We agreed on 1200 pesos to take us to 3 different cenotes and wait for us at each one. (To find taxis, just look where they park near the ADO bus station.)
He picked us up at Zaci cenote, which we’d walked to. We got there at opening time and were the first ones there—had the place to ourselves for a while! 150 pesos per person. A pretty cenote in the city center with lush vegetation. It’s a bit like Ik Kil but without the deep cylindrical effect.
Cenote Xcanahaltun: the most beautiful cenote we visited. Entry 250 pesos per person. It’s a closed cenote with a hole that lets light in—a cave-like setting. You can kayak inside. There are little fish at the edge that nibble dead skin off your feet. Since it’s closed, the water is *freezing*!
Cenote Palomitas: entry 250 pesos per person. Another stunning closed cenote, even more enclosed than Xcanahaltun. The hole in the ceiling is smaller, so it was pretty dark when we arrived—kind of an eerie vibe. But when the staff turned on the lights, it looked like a "Gothic cathedral" full of bright stalactites.
Cenote Sac Aua: entry 290 pesos per person. The ticket includes a guided cave tour (tip-based). This cenote is really unique with its central island and way less crowded than Suytun. Just so you know, the water is *really* cold in cenotes. In these three, in July, we had the place to ourselves for a while and never saw more than 2 families at once—so peaceful!
Sunday, July 12:
ADO bus to Bacalar (536 pesos per person).
In Bacalar, we stayed via Airbnb with a host named Luli, who offers several rooms with shared bathroom and kitchen.
The room is nicely decorated in a pleasant setting. It’s ideally located near the lagoon and downtown. The shared kitchen is handy. The mosquito net over the bed is useful because there are *a lot* of mosquitoes in Bacalar. Luli provides a water jug, which is really nice. The only big downside is the lack of water pressure in the shower—we had to rinse off by filling a bucket. Also, there’s no real door separating the room from the bathroom. We never met Luli in person, but she was very responsive via messages. The terrace in the middle of the vegetation is lovely.
From the ADO terminal to the place, we took a taxi for 40 pesos. Since this driver was honest about the price (we’d checked beforehand), we decided to use him every time we needed a taxi in Bacalar. Here’s his WhatsApp: +52 983 184 3585.
Monday, July 13:
We did a boat tour on the lagoon with "Bacalar Francophone Activities." Since we were just the two of us, it cost 3500 pesos. If we’d managed to be 4 people, it would’ve been 1000 pesos per person.
We had a private 4-hour tour on the lagoon with Steeve and his very comfortable boat. He’s from Quebec, so his French is perfect. During those 4 hours, Steeve showed us the lagoon’s iconic spots *and* places other boats don’t go. He told us about the lagoon’s history and gave great tips on where to go and where to eat. As a little bonus, he gave us a video taken with his drone during our swimming break.
Tuesday, July 14:
We went to Los Rapidos by taxi (400 pesos round trip) and entry was 225 pesos per person. It’s *very* touristy but really beautiful. You can eat there (expensive), relax, and go down the "rapids" as many times as you want. It’s worth it if you spend a few hours there. You can’t bring in food or drinks—you leave them at the entrance and pick them up on the way out.
Wednesday, July 15:
On Wednesdays, navigation is banned on Bacalar Lagoon, so we’d planned another excursion.
Visit to Calakmul from Bacalar with ABCtours (WhatsApp +52 983 319 8359).
This agency organized a trip from Bacalar to Calakmul with a French-speaking guide. Communication beforehand via WhatsApp was smooth. Mr. Checo, the driver, and Fernando, the guide (who spoke great French), picked us up on the day. Mr. Checo drove very carefully on the long road and always made sure we were comfortable. Fernando is passionate about flora and fauna—he’s a biologist with a degree in ornithology, so he knows *everything* about animals. The slightest sound or song, and he knows what it is. He’s got an eye for spotting them, from the biggest to the smallest.
During the trip, we stopped at km 27 for a short forest walk, then went to see the two main pyramids on the site. On the way back, we stopped at the bat cave for the magical spectacle of millions of bats flying out at dusk. In the end, we saw or glimpsed (some briefly) spider monkeys, howler monkeys, a toucan, 2 tapirs, turkeys, 2 deer, and lots of birds. If, like us, you’re more into flora and fauna than archaeology, I’d *highly* recommend this agency and tour with Fernando.
It’s not cheap, but the road between Bacalar and the site is *long* (3.5 hours). Price: 3900 pesos per person for 2 (3500 for 3, 3200 for 4).
Thursday, July 16:
ADO bus to Playa del Carmen (614 pesos per person).
In Playa del Carmen, we stayed in an Airbnb. The building is on the town hall square, next to the casino.
The best thing about this place is the *location*—super close to Fifth Avenue (La Quinta). The kitchen is pretty basic, but the fridge works well. There are supermarkets nearby. The rooftop pool is really nice. The two big downsides, though, are the soundproofing (you can *hear* the neighbor’s alarm and all the events on the square) and the *total* lack of water pressure in the shower. We had to fill a trash can with water to pour over ourselves. When we told the owner, he said it wasn’t normal and someone would come fix it, but we never heard back. Based on previous reviews, this seems to be a known issue that never gets resolved.
Playa del Carmen is *very* touristy on Fifth Avenue, but in a fun, musical vibe—we never felt unsafe. There are *tons* of little souvenir shops for tourists on this street. There’s a beautiful monumental sculpture on the beach (the two figures meeting in the air), next to which you can see the Voladores show (men climbing a pole, tying themselves with ropes, and descending headfirst while "flying" around the pole). The show is tip-based and happens several times a day. In our opinion, Calle 38 is prettier than Fifth Avenue—it’s lush, green, and quieter, with the sea at the end. Great for an early evening stroll. We had really good meals at great prices at "El Tio Noy" tacos, just a few meters from Fifth Avenue in a side street.
For souvenirs, we’d recommend going to Walmart instead of Fifth Avenue—you’ll find skulls, tequila, mezcal, keychains, mugs, glasses... at good, fixed prices.
Friday, July 17:
We did the excursion to Isla Contoy. Isla Contoy is an uninhabited, highly protected island. Only 200 people are allowed to land per day on a rotating basis, so only a few companies have permission to dock there. Most agencies subcontract the day to a third-party company.
We booked through VRM (Viviendo Riviera Maya), but it was Ocean Tours Mexico that handled the tour. Contoy is a little paradise. We were accompanied by multilingual guides, including French speakers, throughout the day. Steffy gave us info about the island during a short walk on the marked trails, and Leño Tlatemoa kept the mood up on the boat rides with music and dancing. Isla Contoy is *truly* stunning, and the lunch was delicious: grilled fish and chicken, guacamole and tortilla chips, rice, fruit, drinks (everything is brought and taken back by the guides). The snorkeling part was pretty disappointing if you’ve done it in Cozumel, though. The stop at Isla Mujeres isn’t very interesting either—it’s too short to explore, and the island is *extremely* touristy. Still, the excursion was very well organized, and we had a great day (2970 pesos per person).
Saturday, July 18:
We wanted to go snorkeling in Cozumel but thought the prices from French-speaking agencies were too high. Plus, for snorkeling, we figured we didn’t *need* a French-speaking guide.
So we found a much cheaper solution by taking the ferry from Playa del Carmen ourselves and choosing an agency in Playa. The round-trip ferry cost 663.50 pesos per person. Then we took a taxi to the snorkeling boat (100 pesos). The agency we chose is called Mystic Snorkel—they don’t have a physical office. The tour cost 1400 pesos per person. It was a small boat, but that day we were the only ones, so we got a private tour at the group rate. We stopped at 4 different sites, all very different and beautiful. We saw all kinds of fish, corals, a nurse shark, and turtles. El Cielo, with its huge starfish, is *exceptional*. If you’re going snorkeling in the Yucatan Peninsula, this is *the* tour to do—the other sites are pretty "poor" in comparison.
Sunday, July 19:
Morning dive with Triton Diving. I chose the Cozumel dive option. Great experience.
Booking via WhatsApp was easy. On the day of the dive, Selene, who speaks French, was our guide. She’s *very* attentive to the group’s safety. The briefings are clear and precise. In Cozumel, we did 2 very different sites: the first was a drift dive with lots of life—beautiful corals and fish. The second was a wreck, the C53, a 56-meter boat you can enter. Not much marine life, but a beautiful wreck intentionally sunk for divers—still in great condition. An unforgettable moment. Selene even took videos during the dive, which the club sends you for free afterward. I’d *highly* recommend this club.
Just so you know, in Playa del Carmen, the beaches were full of sargassum during our stay, despite barriers and daily cleanup. Locals told us the problem is getting worse and the sargassum is arriving earlier in the season. Tourism has taken a *big* hit this summer, and they’re wondering if tourism can even survive the sargassum season anymore. A lot of tourists are heading to the islands—Isla Mujeres and Cozumel—to enjoy the beaches, as the west side of those islands is sargassum-free.
Monday, July 20:
Colectivo to Puerto Morelos. First, a colectivo toward Cancun that drops you off between Puerto Morelos town and Puerto Morelos beach (40 pesos per person), then another from that junction to the beach (10 pesos per person).
In Puerto Morelos, we’d booked a room via Airbnb at "Piedra del Caribe." *Best* place we stayed in Mexico. It’s an aparthotel. Our room was ready before check-in, so they let us in early. The place matched the description—spacious, with a comfortable king-size bed. The shower had *great* pressure, which isn’t a given in Mexico. The staff was super friendly and welcoming. They let us use the pool, restrooms, and rooftop shower after check-out while we waited for our ride to Cancun Airport. They even kept our luggage. I *highly* recommend this place.
In Puerto Morelos, there was *way* less sargassum than in Playa del Carmen—it was actually swimmable.
We did the snorkeling tour with the fishermen’s cooperative for 450 pesos per person for 2 hours. The reef is close to the beach (you’re not allowed to swim there), so the boat ride is short. It’s not as pretty as Cozumel, but it’s nice and affordable. On Puerto Morelos’s page, you can also access a small, not-very-well-preserved reef. There’s also a cenote in the sea where fresh water mixes with saltwater—the water is murky there. We had a great dinner and excellent cocktails at "La Choza del Puerto."
Tuesday, July 21:
Wandered around Puerto Morelos (check out the church and read everything—it’s entertaining!), relaxed by the hotel pool, and left for Cancun Airport by taxi (400 pesos) booked via InDrive to head back to France.
Our highlights:
- Holbox
- The whale shark tour
- The cenotes
- The local flora and fauna (so present!)
- Isla Contoy
- Cabo Catoche (except for the snorkeling)
What we liked least:
- The bioluminescence (barely visible despite good conditions)
- The food—we found it not very diverse in taquerias
- The constant tipping
- The lack of water pressure in showers (fixed, wall-mounted, no hose or showerhead)
Don’t hesitate to ask if you have any questions while it’s still fresh in our minds.
Traveling with just one spare pair of underwear, considering a hot shower a miracle, never staying in the same place too long by sleeping wherever night catches us, taking whatever local, improbable, and rickety transport we can find—this is the DNA of us wanderers. Except this time, the script for our movie is going to be a whole different genre. On paper, the destination doesn’t exactly scream epic adventure: Réunion! And what’s more... we won’t be two, or four, or even ten. We’ll be a solid thirty. All from the same family. Yes, thirty. At this point, it’s not just a trip—it’s a summer camp on the move! Why inflict this on such a peaceful island? Because my brother decided to get married there with his lovely bride. A great idea, you might say... especially when it involves relocating the equivalent of a small Ardennes village 10,000 kilometers from home for three weeks! So who’s stepping up to be the guide and wave the little flag?
So, for an exceptional trip, exceptional stories! Don’t worry, the debates at the supermarket over whether to choose plain chips or roast chicken chips, the beach picnics washed down with ti’ punch, and other rougail sausages to digest by the pool will only make it into the family archives. Here, I’ll stick to the tales of our beautiful escapes, the ones where we explore the wild corners of this little volcanic rock planted in the middle of the Indian Ocean. So where exactly are we headed?
For the first week—the subject of this first installment—we’re taking it easy. We’ll start by rediscovering the coastline, from the Souffleur in Saint-Leu to the Hermitage lagoon, before a little trip to the Cirque de Cilaos and its legendary road with 400 turns, just to get our legs warmed up.
This travel journal is therefore intended solely for my photos, to present a consistent style.
All the shots were taken with a simple Samsung Galaxy smartphone and with whatever was at hand.
All stays combined, I’ve spent the equivalent of three years at most in Thailand, and I’m not a big expert on the country.
However, after many trips, lots of reading on VoyageForum and other sites, and conversations with many locals as well as expats, my view of the country is becoming clearer, though it’s constantly evolving. You never stop discovering and learning.
I guess I wanted to piece together a puzzle, mainly for those who want to get an idea of the country here and for those who miss it.
I don’t know if this minimalist sharing will interest anyone, but it’ll do me good to put it together. After so many months without traveling and then these other long months with VF closed, there’s plenty of material available.
There’ll be a mix of places, periods, and subjects, but it might well be intentional.
I suspect many Thais have dogs because they make excellent guards for the home. Nothing better to deter burglars or to signal the presence of a snake. You’ll often see Thais tapping the top of their dog’s head, but don’t be fooled: it’s a sign of affection from them. Judging by the dogs’ reactions, they’re used to it.
Thailand is one of the countries on the planet where rabies is still present, so keep that in mind. It’s not just bites that can be dangerous, so don’t let just any dog lick you. Especially on a wound, of course.
Even though dogs often fear humans—this dangerous and unpredictable predator—we still need to stay cautious.
Be careful when walking into alleys because the dog will defend its master’s big property, be careful at night, and be careful when they’re in packs.
It sometimes crosses our minds that Thailand isn’t really made for walking around, and dogs are one of the reasons.
That said, it’s not uncommon to see them chasing bikes or scooters. Cars, though, are much rarer—they’re too big.
It seems Thais prefer to give their dogs freedom by not locking them behind gates. Though sometimes the gate is closed, the little side door is wide open. Oh, and sometimes there’s no gate in front of the property, or it’s been broken for years.
You’ll often see dogs sleeping on the side of the road, sometimes right on the road. When you arrive, they move aside nonchalantly—or not at all. It’s less funny when they suddenly appear from thick vegetation, which reminds visitors not to drive too fast. As a result, you’ll notice that dogs with injuries or missing legs aren’t that rare.
Since they believe in reincarnation and respect for all forms of life, they don’t chase dog packs away too much, and they don’t sterilize them enough. Seeing a small pack roaming freely in the countryside, you might think it’s best not to cross paths with them at the edge of a field.
A darker side of this is that euthanasia isn’t often practiced. Twice, we saw dogs at temples on the brink of death, enduring terrible suffering. No one did anything about it. The image (and the smell) of one of them, dying and emitting the stench of death, still comes back to me sometimes.
Some of you may have seen the YouTube vlog of a French woman living in Phuket who was given a little pig by her Thai friends. The well-fed animal quickly became a happy, enormous beast with its own garden. Yet, it didn’t take long for it to fall seriously ill and become incurable. In her video, the French woman described how difficult it was to find a vet willing to perform euthanasia.
You’ll often see bowls by the side of the road. Thais leave food and water in them for stray cats and dogs. Overall, they have a big heart for animals.
If you ever pop into a shopping mall, you might see people pushing their small dogs in strollers. It’s not a gimmick—it’s just that these strollers are provided for customers to put their pets in, otherwise you can’t bring them inside. It looks a bit odd when you expect to see a baby.
It was winter, a winter with beautiful weather,
A season that only exists in the southwest of America,
I remember very well what I told you that morning
A month ago... A century ago, an eternity ago...
We’ll go... wherever you want, whenever you want...
Well, yeah, back from our adventure in our enchanting American West just a month ago, we’re already taking a bite out of one of its lesser-known competitors. "Flo, if you had to pick just one reason to justify your love for the U.S., what would it be?" The greasy, dripping burgers? No, I don’t think I’m going out on a limb by saying it’d be the wide-open spaces... And that’s exactly what our new quest is taking us to—a land on the other side of the globe where the horizon also seems endless, where silence tastes like salty wind and sand, where freedom is measured in kilometers of desert tracks, where the GPS is mostly there to confirm you’re lost in the middle of nowhere... Add to that magic formula the fact that you’ll see more zebras, giraffes, wildebeest, and elephants than people per square kilometer, and you can imagine us setting foot in Southern Africa for the first time, more precisely at the small airport in Windhoek, capital of... of...? Brush up on your geography, damn it! We’re landing in Namibia!!!
To be honest, Namibian landscapes have been flirting with me for ages. So how did I resist this island of temptation for so long? First, the budget. Let’s just say that for the same amount of effort (and kidneys), the bank lets you choose two other adventures almost anywhere else on the planet. Then there were my girls. Yeah, back then, they were too little to dose up on Malarone, the only malaria remedy at the time... Long story short, ten years later, all the planets have aligned. First, I won the Euromillions! Well, almost... Let’s just say my girls are now old enough... not to take Malarone, but to stop following me on all my adventures! Jackpot! "Flo, how about a little two-person caprice, just the two of us, tackling the Namibian tracks?"
As we landed on the runway, first wow effect: The horizon is immense. It’s flat as can be, incredibly flat... So much flat space! Did I mention it was flat?... Looking into the distance, it feels like your gaze could circle the Earth without hitting a single obstacle—until you end up staring at your own backside. "Oh, what a nice view!" Well, it’s the first time I’ve seen my butt from this angle! Touching moment... Sorry, I’m rambling—must be the exhaustion from the three-flight marathon we just powered through via Ethiopia and South Africa... And yet, no time to philosophize about my anatomy. As usual, we want to rack up our first kilometers to be front and center at dawn tomorrow. After wrapping up the tedious Namibian immigration formalities and meeting the 4x4 that’ll be our companion day and night for the next fifteen days, we’re off! We’re not exactly fresh, but we’re ready to tackle the next five hundred kilometers in night mode, cruise control set due south! Just outside Windhoek, the local wildlife—a jackal—welcomes us with a smile: "Welcome to Namibia!" That’s what it said! Honest... Okay, first endless straight road, first flaming sunset, first corrugated dirt track, first Milky Way with zero light pollution... You get it—it’s definitely the day of firsts... First night camping, too, in the big trunk of our Toyota Fortuner parked by the side of the track... The real adventure, the kind that smells under the arms, can finally begin...
Here we go—finally, the big day has arrived! A trip the whole family (my two kids, my husband, and me) had been looking forward to for so long.
To keep it short, we left from Nice, arrived in Namibia on June 25, 2025, and left again on the 21st—four weeks later.
We used an agency for all the camping reservations, activities, and the car rental. At least that side of things was taken care of. Michaël was our contact throughout the planning and the trip itself.
We spent our first night at Londiningi BB. A bit out of the city center but very quiet. The rooms were spacious and clean, and we could eat on-site that evening. Perfect for recovering from the flight.
This travel journal is our second on VoyageForum, following last year’s where we recounted our four weeks in Vietnam.
The goal remains the same: since some members on this site share tips, experiences, and great deals that help us prepare for our trips, we do the same after returning—both to give back a little and in the hope that our experiences might be useful to others in some way.
Our route was as follows: Bangkok, Siem Reap, Krabi, Suratthani, Koh Phangan, Koh Tao, Chumphon, Bang Saphan, Prachuab Khiri Khan, Sam Roi Yod, Hua Hin, Phetchaburi, Bangkok.
Beyond rediscovering Bangkok, our objectives were the long-held dream of seeing Angkor and exploring southern Thailand, much of which isn’t overly touristy.
A quick big thank-you to Barbot, who took the time to answer several of our questions.
12/07/2013
The cheapest flight we found earlier this year was a Paris-Bangkok route with a layover in Moscow for 1440 €, total for two people.
So, this time we tried Aeroflot. Airbus A318 for the first leg, A330 for the second. Nothing particularly annoying to report—the passengers were very calm, the cabin temperature was comfortable, and we had enough legroom.
That said, the quality of the meal trays was pretty mediocre, and the flight attendants weren’t exactly comedians.
We’d like to remind everyone that it’s best to exchange as little money as possible at the airport upon arrival, since the rate is about 5% worse than at city banks.
Of course, we made sure to take the airport exit where you can catch official taxis to avoid getting scammed. So, we queued up, a little lady gave us the ticket, and off we went with the driver.
Generally, this system works well because these drivers are registered, know their duties, and the risks they face if they break the rules. Except that day, right off the bat, we got the scammer of the day. His first move was to snatch the ticket from my wife’s hands—the one you’re supposed to keep in case of a complaint. My husband saw it, but after a full day of travel, we were a bit out of it, and honestly, there was no reason to be suspicious. But once we started driving, the guy refused to turn on the meter. We insisted more and more firmly, but nothing. So, I used the famous method of opening the door and starting to step out of the car. At 40 km/h, that scares the driver more than the passenger. He finally turned on the meter, but that didn’t calm him down—quite the opposite. For the next half-hour, he ruined the ride by demanding extra fees here and there. Having dealt with several scam attempts last year in Vietnam, this wasn’t exactly new, and we were proud of ourselves for staying pretty zen. Still, this guy was a little scary—he was completely wired and aggressive. Honestly, it was hard not to think he was on something. He’d be perfect for a *Scarface* remake. When we finally arrived at the hotel, he followed us to the entrance. We paid the two tolls (25 and 45 baht), gave him the usual 100 baht extra for the ride, and stayed polite but firm. So, meter: 245 baht + 100 baht + 25 and 45 baht for tolls—we paid the exact amount, no way we were tipping this guy. He left furious, but he was already like that before picking us up... Anyway, avoid Mr. Chartree Chidchen, number 089 826 7308, car E2663!
We were so relieved to finally settle in at Feung Nakorn Balcony hotel in the temple district. 42 € per night, great reception, all the staff is friendly. The AC works fine, the bed seemed hard at first but turned out to be comfortable. The hotel is quiet, away from the nightlife, but at this time of year, many places are less crowded than in high season. Even with a nice fish pond and outdoor breakfast area, it’s a decent hotel, though we felt we could’ve found something better.
After a night on the plane, the first afternoon is always a bit of a slog. We napped for a few hours, and when we woke up—guess what—we were starving. We visited a temple across from the hotel (nothing special) and then decided to take the Chao Phraya Express, the river shuttle that serves many piers along the river. It was a really enjoyable experience. The steel gangway wobbles when you board and disembark, the boat sits low in the water, and sometimes you get splashed. During peak times, you’re packed in like sardines, but most of all, there’s that exotic urban landscape passing by, especially the temple rooftops.
At that exact moment, the boat was packed. We didn’t see a ticket booth at the pier, and we tried in vain to pay the few baht for the ride. The cashier on the boat was too busy, and another employee we called didn’t have time to help us. Oh well, we weren’t going to force the issue. Still, this mode of transport is super practical for avoiding traffic, and at the piers, the lines with station names are clearly marked, with colors matching the flags on the boats. Combined with a map like the *Routard* guide, it’s easy to navigate.
We easily made it to the restaurant *Harmonique*, located near one of these piers. It’s a unanimous favorite on this forum, and let us tell you—it’s well-deserved. What a wonderful experience that evening! We only saw the outdoor gazebo because there was no way we were dining inside. It’s not flashy, so those looking for a luxurious setting should look elsewhere.
That night, the staff was a bit slow, and we had to track them down several times to move things along. But oh, my friends—what a feast on the plate! Start with the appetizer platter for two at 250 baht, featuring four specialties, each more tempting than the last, followed by their famous crab curry for 200 baht. There’s *so much* crab in there! The dish is so delicious and rich that when you finish, you feel—how to put it—like it was almost *too* good, to the point where you’re almost put off eating for days. And also, oh yes, we *will* be back. Their satay chicken is just as amazing, and it would be a crime not to mention their generous dessert with ice cream, warm banana, and chocolate, plus their *excellent* almond milkshake.
Later, we took a taxi to Kao San Road, mainly to book a Ko Tao-Chumphon trip for 600 baht per person at the Lomprayah counter. In hindsight, we should’ve booked all three of our trips there right away.
Kao San Road is *ultra*-touristy—better for younger crowds, but it’s still worth seeing. There’s rock ‘n’ roll, hippies, and crowds everywhere.
We walked back to the hotel, and when we got a little lost near a canal, a really nice older Thai man spontaneously appeared out of the night to kindly point us in the right direction.
Finally, a real long night of sleep ahead—we cranked up the AC. Sweet, the vacation has begun!
Hi there,
I just got back from a trip to Sri Lanka from December 18th to January 1st with 2 adults and 2 kids (12 years old).
If it helps, here’s my itinerary.
We left on December 18th from Madrid with Qatar Airways. No complaints. I booked my tickets back in March for 800 € per person. (I flew from Madrid because I live near the Spanish border and was too worried about strikes in France.)
We arrived on December 19th at 4 PM (local time). Before leaving France, I’d booked a taxi through MyTransfer for 59 € to Sigiriya. A van was waiting for us at the airport exit.
A never-ending 3-hour drive to Sigiriya. We stayed at Samana Guesthouse—very simple, clean, with a pool and an excellent Sri Lankan breakfast. Shower and straight to bed.
Friday, December 20th: Beautiful weather, but very humid and hot. We visited Lion Rock (36 € for adults) and then Pidurangala.
I loved both sites—they’re a must-do in my opinion.
Spent the late afternoon by the pool.
Saturday, December 21st: Another gorgeous day. The guesthouse manager offered us a free 2-hour tuk-tuk tour. We first visited a lake, rice fields, the temple, and the Sigiriya market, plus the usual tourist trap—the botanical garden (no pressure to buy anything at the end).
Then we took a tuk-tuk to Dambulla Temple, the Golden Buddha, and the wholesale market.
Sunday, December 22nd: Still beautiful weather. I’d booked a taxi for 8 AM. We did all the long trips by taxi to save time. I’d ask for prices from 2 or 3 WhatsApp taxi agencies 2 days or the day before—super responsive, always got replies within 5 minutes. We headed to Ella (4-hour drive) for 22,000 LKR.
Arrived in the afternoon at Rest Full Homestay—a small, family-run guesthouse. Clean, cozy, and an amazing Sri Lankan breakfast.
In the afternoon, we went to Nine Arches Bridge. It was a Sunday, a Sri Lankan holiday, so it was *packed*—mostly locals and very few white tourists! Even though it was crowded, it was cool because it was all Sri Lankans. We waited an hour for the train. It’s worth seeing, but honestly, I didn’t think it was that amazing.
Then we headed to the station to check if we needed to book tickets for the train to Haputale—turns out, no.
Monday, December 23rd: Beautiful weather. We hiked Ella Rock—a gorgeous trek. The final stretch is steep but shaded, so it wasn’t as tough as I’d read. The whole hike is stunning from start to finish. We saw the train pass twice (one blue, one red) and lots of women picking tea.
After that, we did Little Adam’s Peak. It’s not hard, but it was *packed* with tourists—meh. Luckily, at the top, you can walk a bit farther (down one side and back up) to get some space to yourself.
What I *didn’t* like was the commercial vibe at the big café/restaurant with a pool at the entrance of Little Adam’s Peak. Loud music, all that money being made right next to little souvenir stands run by Sri Lankans or tea-picking women. Felt off.
Ended the day buying souvenirs at one of the few shops we found during the trip.
Tuesday, December 24th: Beautiful weather. Took the train to Haputale. We got to the station 30 minutes before the 9:30 AM train. We could’ve taken 2nd or 3rd class—I went with 2nd (160 LKR per person).
It was crowded, but we managed to get seats—first 2, then 3. Only a 1-hour ride, but I *loved* it—windows and doors open the whole time.
Arrived in Haputale around 11 AM, and the mist was already rolling in.
We walked to our guesthouse, The Mist Holiday Bungalow. Simple but clean, with a great view of the tea plantations. The owner’s wife is Vietnamese and used to work for French tour operators, so her French is still pretty good—helpful for us since our English is terrible. They booked us a tuk-tuk for 4:45 AM the next day (2,000 LKR) to Lipton’s Seat.
Spent the afternoon wandering around Haputale. Not much charm, but there’s a nice fruit and veggie market and a short walk through the tea plantations.
Wednesday, December 25th: Beautiful weather. The tuk-tuk was on time to take us to Lipton’s Seat. We were the first ones there—the sky was just starting to turn pink. In the end, only about ten of us watched the sunrise. The guesthouse had packed us breakfast, and we walked back down (half on the road, half through the plantations). Didn’t see any tea picking since it was Christmas, but the walk was still incredible. We took detours through villages full of kids.
After that, we visited the tea factory. The tour was really interesting, and we took the bus back down to Haputale. Such a great moment—whole families were heading to mass, dressed up and made up. All so beautiful.
At noon, we left for Udawalawe National Park. Taxi for 14,000 LKR. Stayed at River Inn Safari Cottage. *Warning*: It’s the same place as Eagle Safari Cottage. I don’t recommend it. We’d always stayed with families before, but here it was just staff—totally different vibe. The pool was nice but not very clean (water was murky). The bungalow was big and fine, but it was brand new—so new the asphalt floor wasn’t fully dry. It’s in the middle of nowhere, so we had to eat on-site. Couldn’t leave a review on Booking because they never confirmed we’d stayed, and they canceled our reservation the next day.
Thursday, December 26th: Beautiful weather. I’d booked a safari through the hotel for 5:30–10 AM for 54 USD. Honestly, yes, there are a lot of jeeps, but it was great. The kids loved it—we saw everything there was to see.
Left by taxi at 11:30 AM for Welligama (12,000 LKR).
We didn’t stay in Welligama city but at Coconut Beach, between Welligama and Midigama. *Total crush* on the guesthouse: Sky Mountain Café with View. Such a lovely family. The mom makes amazing meals at reasonable prices. The view from the hill over the sea is unreal.
Spent the afternoon walking along the beach.
Friday, December 27th: Beautiful weather. My kids are surfers. Unfortunately, there weren’t any boards their size to rent at Coconut, so we took a tuk-tuk to Welligama Bay (1,000 LKR). They surfed from 8 AM to 5 PM—rental was 5,000 LKR for the day. Meanwhile, we walked the beach and swam. Water was 29°C.
Saturday, December 28th: Beautiful weather, rain from 4 PM until midnight. Same surf day. They were so well-behaved the whole trip, so this was their reward.
Sunday, December 29th: Beautiful weather. Beach day at Coconut. *Warning*: It’s a reef break. For surfers, there are three spots (Coconut Left, Middle, and Right). The boys bodysurfed (with fins) all morning, and at 1 PM, we took the bus to Hikkaduwa.
Stayed at Hotel Universal Beach. Nothing special—right on the water, but the rooms were dark even though they were clean. The manager was super nice, but the rest was meh, and breakfast was mediocre compared to what we’d had before (2 eggs and 3 slices of toast). Plus, it was late—8 AM.
First impression of Hikkaduwa wasn’t great—way too many Russians for our taste.
Monday, December 30th: Beautiful weather. Spent the whole day exploring. Turtle Beach, then the other side of the beach (toward Galle) near the fishing port. The beach there is much wider, with scattered hotels and super quiet. It’s beautiful—I should’ve booked somewhere in that area. Ended up having a great day away from the crowds.
Tuesday, December 31st: Overcast, then beautiful, rain at 4 PM. Had to end the year (and the trip) with some surf. Rented boards for the kids (3,000 LKR per board for the day). Bad luck—the waves were on a reef break but small. Not great for them, but no big deal. They still got out of the water by 2 PM. Walked the beach (which is gorgeous), had a juice, and went for a swim. Then back to surfing in the rain at 4 PM.
Wednesday, January 1st: Left by taxi at 5 AM (18,000 LKR). Flight at 10 AM. Arrived in Madrid at 8 PM.
I could have titled my travel journal like Carmen: "Some trips are born twice." Indeed, we had considered this destination back in February 2020. However, an honest tour operator advised us against traveling at that time due to the climate. So, we gave up and opted for Guatemala instead (see "On the Mayan Lands" on this site).
So, why this title? When I was in primary school, over 65 years ago, the illustrations in my history books (Machu Picchu) and geography books (Lake Titicaca) made me dream, and those images stayed in my mind. It took until 2026 to finally make this dream come true!
We prepared our trip with Tout Pérou, a French-speaking "agency." Everything was handled via email and WhatsApp exchanges with our contact: Laurent, who was both competent, friendly, and full of good advice.
For 200 €, Tout Pérou provided us with drivers and guides whenever we wanted, helped us buy our domestic flights (cheaper when purchased in Peru), booked shuttles between airports and hotels, and got us a discount on the train ride to Aguas Calientes, as well as on the buses between Chivay and Puno and between Puno and Cusco. In short, Laurent took care of all the logistics and the Machu Picchu tickets. It was up to us to book our hotels. Tout Pérou provided a list, but we weren’t obliged to follow it. Another advantage of the package: we didn’t have to pay in advance; we paid the service providers directly day by day.
We didn’t meet Laurent in person because he was on vacation in Europe. Before his departure, he gave us a briefing, provided a summary table with the entire program, the service providers, their phone numbers, their fees, the schedules, and gave us plenty of advice (money, exchange, safety, etc.). After returning at the end of our stay, he kept checking in on us.
Lastly, we had also gathered information from Arnaud Lagadec, who runs a hotel in Cusco and offers tours of the region. He gave us a lot of useful information. Another contact: Thomas Montaigne, very friendly, who runs an agency in Arequipa (Agence Pérou Exclusif).
Day 1 – Paris to Lima
Foreword
I’ll share our trip without any pretension—I don’t have the talent of some contributors on this forum—and I’ll illustrate it with a few photos (taken with an ordinary smartphone). My comments are personal and only reflect my own views. So, please be kind! Feel free to comment on my story as you like, but let’s avoid pointless debates.
Even though we live in the south of the Paris region, true to our habits when the flight is in the morning, we chose to spend the night before our departure in a hotel near CDG and parked our car in a parking lot in Garches. This way, we avoid the stress that often comes with traveling around Paris (accidents, roadworks, traffic jams, etc.).
Check-in and border control went smoothly on that Sunday morning. Our Air France flight was uneventful. In Lima, border control took a particularly long time, and for the first time, we didn’t get an entry visa stamped in our passports.
As planned, a driver took us to the Miraflores district, where our hotel was located. We were surprised by the numerous signs about possible tsunamis, having forgotten that Peru is prone to such events and regularly experiences earthquakes. We’d see the consequences of these during our journey.
Exhausted from the early wake-up, the 13-hour flight, and the 7-hour time difference, we had dinner at the hotel before a restful night.
Note that this day was Peru’s presidential election day. As a result, we weren’t served beer—the sale of alcohol was banned that Sunday.
We did the Langtang trek (hike) from September 10th to 17th, with the first and last days being the trip from Kathmandu and back—so 6 days of actual walking. It’s a fairly well-known trek but certainly not as famous or crowded as those in the Annapurna or Everest regions, which is why we chose it.
In theory, it’s mandatory to have a guide for this trek. In reality, it seems there are ways to bypass the regulations: we met at least two people hiking without a guide—a South Korean, a New Zealander, and possibly also a couple of English women and an American couple, though we’re not sure if they had a guide.
The agency we booked with had told us it was an affordable trek for relatively older people in good shape—which is our case (I’m 72 myself). I have to say upfront that we found it quite challenging, maybe because we didn’t have good weather—it was the end of the monsoon season. To be clear, no matter your fitness level, I’d say doing this trek in the middle of the monsoon season would be suicidal.
Day 1 – Journey from Kathmandu to Syapru Besi
On Monday, September 8th, there had been violent protests in Kathmandu against the government, which had, among other things, blocked access to social media and been accused of nepotism and corruption. There were 19 deaths. The situation was very tense on the day of our departure, Wednesday the 10th. The agency warned us that public transport was very unreliable. So, we decided to take a jeep, at an additional cost of $100 ($160 minus what was already budgeted for the bus).
We left a little before 7 a.m. and it took us a good hour just to reach the outskirts of Kathmandu. Along the way, we saw several houses and vehicles set on fire by protesters.
The road to Syapru Besi is only 120 km, but it’s frankly awful. It’s always narrow, winds through endless mountains, and the shoulders range from bad to confusing to nonexistent. Several sections are just dirt tracks. We didn’t regret opting for the jeep, as we could stop several times at our convenience—if only to let Y (my Thai partner) throw up everything she had. She’d taken her usual motion sickness medication, but the constant turns, accelerations, and braking eventually made her terribly carsick.
In Nuwakot, we stopped for breakfast at a nice little restaurant, Jimbu. It was around 8:30 a.m., and we’d barely covered 60 km. The restaurant has a lovely garden overlooking the Trishuli Ganga, the river flowing down from Syapru Besi. First photo: the river in the bottom right corner, mist and clouds over the mountain on the other side.
An hour later, my second photo: the hills along the Trishuli Ganga. You can see the different crops—lush green rice paddies in the lower right and corn, already yellowed and likely harvested, in the foreground on the left. And of course, the mist and clouds through which you can glimpse the mountain on the other side of the river.
When we started looking for a summer destination a few months ago, our first criterion was to avoid extreme heat and heatwaves. We had already been to Norway two years ago and are considering going back in the future for other occasions. So, we had some fun asking ChatGPT which destinations enjoyed a mild climate during the summer without going too far. Among the list provided by the AI were the Canary Islands... The idea of a place we wouldn’t have thought of first, both not too far away and exotic enough, appealed to us: “Hmm, why not?”
This destination had never really attracted me, though Magali was a bit more interested. Five years earlier, COVID had caused a short break in my professional activity, and I had planned a trip because the flight price was attractive, and I was looking for a destination different from what usually appeals to me, more than out of deep interest. From a distance and with a social judgment I acknowledge (it’s not great, but it’s not completely wrong), I had the image of a destination for party-goers enjoying the sun without the slightest interest in local culture, with concrete coastlines and denatured landscapes—everything I detest the most. Still, I had done some quick research on the different islands and spotted Lanzarote for its beautiful volcanic landscapes, hiking trails, beaches, and the impression of a good balance between activity and fewer crowds than Tenerife or Gran Canaria. Then I dropped the idea of going, without ever reconsidering traveling to the Canaries...
Until now! Because we started researching the different islands of the archipelago to see which ones might appeal to us the most. It was La Gomera, the third smallest island of the archipelago, more praised for its hiking trails and preserved nature than for its beaches, away from mass tourism (fifty times fewer tourists than Tenerife) but still a bit more developed than its wild neighbor El Hierro, that caught our attention. Contrary to what might be suggested later, I’m not at all addicted to AI, but I use it from time to time to synthesize quick research or simply for experimentation. Since ChatGPT had started anticipating my tastes lately as if it had become my buddy (often successfully, sometimes off the mark), I asked which Canary Island would suit me best for a trip with my family. The tool answered first with... La Gomera. So, I tested it and teased it a bit to see if this suggestion was well-founded, as the method sometimes makes it contradict itself. But no luck: “You’d appreciate the wild nature of El Hierro, but with family, you’ll find little activity for the kids. You won’t like the touristy vibe of the big islands like Tenerife, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, and Fuerteventura. You could consider La Palma, but it’s really La Gomera that will suit you best, based on your interests and the criteria given.” So, we dug deeper into our research and were convinced without a shadow of a doubt that this island was the one waiting for us.
Without knowing it, we had Canarians in our circle who revealed their origins when they heard about our travel plans. One from Tenerife insisted we’d be better off choosing Tenerife (obviously...) because it also has preserved spots and that La Gomera, “you can explore it in two or three days, you’ll get bored quickly...” The other, a colleague from Gran Canaria who had never visited La Gomera, still recommended it without hesitation because it turned out her parents had just gone there on vacation: they loved it and had encountered few tourists. She also tended to think this destination was usually the subject of short stays, but according to what her parents told her, taking your time there was also a great idea. However, in our research, the idea that La Gomera is an island you can explore in three or four days max kept coming up. So, we considered combining its visit with La Palma or El Hierro, the other two that caught our eye. But hopping between islands by ferry represents a significant budget for non-Canarians, even more so for a family of four. Then, scrutinizing Google Maps, it seemed obvious that two weeks were too short to discover two islands as they deserve, and that there seemed to be plenty to see in La Gomera, given its very unique culture. After all, we read that some people spend several months a year there, others never even leave... Finally, these landscapes and this atmosphere, which seemed to us a mix of Europe, North Africa, and Latin America, tempted us. So, it would be two weeks in La Gomera, deal!
La Gomera is therefore the second... well, the third smallest island of the Canaries since La Graciosa was recently recognized as a fully inhabited island. It has the shape of a rough circle about 20 to 25 kilometers in diameter and has just over 20,000 inhabitants, half of them in its capital, San Sebastián de la Gomera, the only real town. Like its Canarian sisters, La Gomera is a volcanic formation that rose about 10 million years ago. The island is very mountainous and rugged, covered with red and black rocky landscapes. Geological activity has shaped, between the sprawling massifs that end in steep cliffs in the ocean, six coastal valleys with tropical vegetation that have favored human settlement. They divide the island like slices of a cake; from the north clockwise: the agricultural Vallehermoso, the rustic Agulo, the green, humid, and fertile Hermigua, the sunny capital San Sebastián de la Gomera, the southern and isolated Alajeró-Santiago, and the seaside Valle Gran Rey. They constitute the six municipalities (more like cantons to our French understanding) of the territory.
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
La Gomera was populated late. As with the rest of the Canaries, human presence is thought to have begun about 2,000 years ago. Groups of animist Berbers, probably fleeing persecution, gradually populated the archipelago, especially the western islands and La Gomera, becoming its small aboriginal population: the Guanches (or later Gomeros). The animist and pastoral civilization of the Guanches thrived until the Spanish takeover in the 15th century, which, after a short period of harmony and mixing with the indigenous people, suddenly ended in bloodshed... La Gomera later became the “Columbus Island” after Christopher Columbus’s stopover, increasing the blending of populations. In the 20th century, many Gomeros emigrated to Cuba and other Latin American countries in search of a better life, bringing back a mix of cultures and traits quite palpable in today’s Gomeran culture. It is, however, in La Gomera that the vestiges of Guanche culture seem to have left the most traces, in the language, gastronomy, social practices... Moreover, most Gomeros, especially in remote villages, have a particular identifiable type and proudly claim their ancestral roots, even making La Gomera a bit exotic in the eyes of other Canarians.
Perhaps that’s why it has never really wanted to develop its tourist infrastructure too much. If we set aside the tourists who visit for the day by bus or boat from Tenerife on a marked itinerary (and whom we ultimately rarely encounter), La Gomera has remained a hidden gem, a destination focused on nature discovery that attracts hikers, nature-loving divers, and scientists for its fauna and flora, and to a lesser extent, beachgoers who don’t seek overly developed coastlines. Tourist activity is therefore limited. Roughly speaking, you’ll find a majority of Spaniards, including a substantial number of residents from other Canary Islands, many Germans who have a particular fondness for La Gomera and spend long stays there or own second homes, to the point that the German cultural footprint is clearly noticeable in some places (it’s said to be Angela Merkel’s favorite holiday spot), and still quite a few French. The presence of other nationalities seemed negligible to us. Most travelers come mainly for hiking, but it’s also a prime spot for whale watching. Additionally, the seaside resorts of La Gomera—San Sebastián, Santiago, and especially Valle Gran Rey—are well-known destinations for hippies, especially German ones, ranging from chic boho hippies to old-school hippies who’ve been there for decades, quite similar to those you’d meet in India in Goa, Rishikesh, or Paharganj. Thus, practices like naturism, vegetarianism, and local organic production are quite well established in some areas.
Some practical info:
- The round-trip flight from Paris to Tenerife cost us 365 € per person (outbound with Transavia, return with EasyJet), including checked luggage and three seats reserved side by side.
- We chose two bases to explore the island: one week in Valle Gran Rey, reputed to be the most pleasant of the three seaside resorts, and one week in Hermigua, more mountainous and close to the natural park. We booked two houses with balconies and views: the first at 120 € per night, the second at 99 €.
- The round-trip ferry between Tenerife and La Gomera cost us 270 € with the company Baleària Canarias, including discounts for children aged 4 and 12, but I don’t have the exact details. It was a bit cheaper than with the other company, Fred Olsen.
- Finally, we rented a car through the agency Cicar for 360 € for 16 days, which comes to 22.50 € per day.
- Apart from that, we didn’t plan anything and decided the day before or even the morning of what we wanted to do. We didn’t invest in any paper guide on the Canaries, as information on La Gomera was scarce, but we used the very comprehensive site La Gomera Travel, a travel guide published by the Canary Islands Tourism Council, a real goldmine of almost exhaustive information on the island.
Alright, off we go for 16 days of adventure discovering La Gomera!
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Our first stop was just a few kilometers from Marrakech, at a lovely house perfect for relaxing and recharging before continuing. It’s called Bleu House, a little paradise on the outskirts of Marrakech. The welcome was very warm, with a beautiful pool and a lovely garden.
Next, we headed toward the Tichka Pass. The road has really improved in recent years—it’s much easier to drive now. No more getting stuck behind trucks, and today, the construction is practically finished.
Morocco has turned green after the recent rains. It’s a joy for the herds and shepherds.
I hesitated about writing this travel journal...
This summer, we only did the classics (the 3 northern parks and Zanzibar) and let a local agency take care of everything from start to finish.
No craziness, no risks, no sleeping under the stars, no self-drive, no venturing off the beaten path, no incidents, and not even any delays in the pre-planned itinerary...
But don’t think we were disappointed!
The whole family (there were 6 of us) came back with smiles and memories of great moments spent together.
So, if you're looking for a "classic" way to discover Tanzania, this is the place to be.
Our 2-week itinerary:
- Arusha (1 night upon arrival)
- Tarangire (1 night)
- Ngorongoro (2 nights in Karatu then Irmisigiyo)
- Serengeti (3 nights in Robanda, Togoro Plains, and Seronera)
- Zanzibar Stone Town (1 night)
- Zanzibar Matemwe (3 nights)
- Zanzibar Jambiani (3 nights)
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
This trip was in 2023, but when I wanted to write my travel journal, VF was still closed to contributions...
So, now that I've just finished my Japan travel journal here, I figured it was high time to honor this destination we came back from so enchanted.
Disclaimer 1: This is a written travel journal. There’ll be text! Too much, for some!
Disclaimer 2: This is an illustrated travel journal. There’ll be photos! Too many, for some!
I have to say, every time I try to discipline myself, to keep it shorter, to include fewer photos... I end up adding more. It feels like my dear Aunt Nicole, who exhausted us with her slide-show evenings in the 70s/80s, decided to take her revenge. The upside for you, readers, is that you can slip away anytime without offending Aunt Nicole. I won’t even notice!
Anyway, since I love maps, here’s one to give you an idea of where I’m taking you. As you can see, we only saw a tiny part of Laos (the areas circled in red); we only had 3 weeks for ourselves (my husband’s newly retired, I still work), and we prefer taking our time over rushing around like crazy.
In broad strokes, it was very classic:
First, we “settled in” at Luang Prabang (8 days), because we wanted and needed to.
From there, we took three days to venture a little further north—not far in kilometers, but as we know, distances aren’t just about km!
Then we flew south to Paksé, letting ourselves drift down to the 4,000 Islands while stopping by the pre-Angkorian archaeological sites.
We wrapped up with the Bolaven Plateau.
A few practical notes: We arrived via Bangkok, then took a Bangkok-Luang Prabang flight, having picked up our luggage in Bangkok to check it in for Luang Prabang. No issues—the Bangkok airport, which many of you know, is very well organized.
We got our visas on arrival in Luang Prabang. Quick, but to be fair, we were on a “small” plane, and the big flights had arrived earlier, so we weren’t too crowded in line!
At the end of our trip, we didn’t fly out of Paksé but from the nearby airport in Thailand, Ubon Ratchathani (a 2.5-hour drive from Paksé), then Bangkok and Paris.
You’ll notice we skipped Vientiane to stay longer in Luang Prabang. That said, there’s now a high-speed train between Vientiane and Luang Prabang—good to know—and soon the (Chinese) train will go all the way to Bangkok and even Kuala Lumpur!
With that intro out of the way, let’s dive into the heart of the matter.
To be continued: Slowing down the pace... in Luang Prabang
It’s an ancient city that breathes, a living spring.
Here, no kitschy signs like “I miss you in Fengyu,” nor mass-produced fake antiques.
The century-old houses still bear the marks of wind and rain; in the morning, you hear roosters crowing, and at dusk, smoke gently rises from the kitchens.
This city doesn’t try to please anyone—like the spring water flowing through it, it simply keeps living at its own pace.
Located in Eryuan County, in the Dali Prefecture of Yunnan, the ancient town of Fengyu is a nationally designated historical and cultural city. It’s nicknamed the “land of scholars and ink”—during the Qing Dynasty, the Fengxiang Academy produced four *jinshi* and eleven *juren* in the imperial examinations. The Bai families made studying and farming a true legacy. Even on market days, you’ll find stalls of calligraphy and paintings, while lintels and screen walls are covered with family mottos.
Fengyu was also an important stop on the ancient Tea Horse Road. It preserves the second-largest Bai architectural complex in China, just after Xizhou. The famous traveler Xu Xiake spent seven days here and compared it to the “peach blossom paradise.”
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
Let’s start with the shotengai...
Our first "wow" moment came as we stepped out of the subway in Asakusa, the Tokyo neighborhood where we’d booked our hotel for our first five nights. Exhausted after our long flight, we finally arrived and took an exit that led straight into a shotengai—one of those covered shopping streets that pop up in city centers and flourished between the 1950s and 1980s.
It was an instant aesthetic shock, like a close encounter of the third kind between the modern city, a typical Asian market with its street stalls, the vintage vibe of the arcade, the sheer abundance of goods, and the bustling crowd—a mix of tourists, pilgrims (thanks to nearby Senso-ji Temple), and locals (it’s a very working-class area).
In the end, it set the tone for a feeling we’d experience throughout the trip. Wherever we went, shotengai turned out to be fantastic spots for finding little restaurants, shops, or even fresh produce. Some are like real mazes, like in Kyoto, where we spent ages trying to relocate a restaurant we’d loved ;-)
In Kanazawa, the Omicho Market:
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
The latest travel journal about Turkmenistan dates back to 2019. Here’s a quick update on this vast desert country, which is now a bit easier to visit than before.
This is my first travel journal. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask. The country is slowly opening up, but it’s still possible to visit sites where you’ll be completely alone. In five days, I saw two Hongkongers, a few Germans, and a Chilean at the crater, ten Chinese people in a capital bazaar, and that’s it!
It’s possible to visit Turkmenistan from Uzbekistan. The easiest and most economical way is to take a taxi to the border from Bukhara. The trip takes a little over an hour.
Crossing the border takes quite a while because many Turkmen bring back items bought in Uzbekistan to resell in Turkmenistan. For example, diapers, baby products, or beauty products.
It took me over 2.5 hours to cross the border. To visit Turkmenistan, it’s mandatory to have a guide and go through a travel agency. British agencies often offer three-, five-, or seven-day trips for over 1,500 or 2,000 €.
But if your budget is more limited, you can contact a few Turkmen agencies directly by email, and they’ll make you an offer between 700 and 1,300 € for three to seven days. I took a five-day trip from Turkmenabat in the northeast of the country to Dashoguz in the north. The goal was to visit the main UNESCO-listed sites, including Merv, and archaeological sites like Nisa or Gonur Tepe.
Your guide will also be your driver. They’ll pick you up at the border. The formalities are very long because customs officers have to stamp multiple documents, and obtaining the visa you previously requested from your travel agency requires several checks. But the process goes relatively smoothly, even if each step takes a while.
Once on the other side, the first surprise is the brand-new highway all the way to Turkmenabat. A very long line of trucks stretches for several kilometers on the Turkmen side to cross the border into Uzbekistan. According to my guide, Turkmen trucks transport gas and cotton (though not this season, since the harvest is in September), but they mainly fill up their tanks because fuel is much cheaper in Turkmenistan. A full tank for a car costs about 3 €, which is unbeatable.
From the Farap border post, the goal is to reach the city of Mary, which is home to the UNESCO-listed site of Merv in its suburbs, about thirty kilometers away. This city is known as a foundation by Alexander the Great in the 4th century BC under the name Alexandria of Margiana. Several fortresses are visible.
After more than three hours on the road, we have lunch at a Turkish restaurant called Aladdin. Several quotes from the president are visible along the highway, but the road is in good condition, and we move along easily. This will be by far the best road in the country—things will get much worse later.
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
Preamble:
Africa was calling to me, so a year ago, with our usual travel companions, we decided to return to the continent we love so much.
Where to go?
Uganda quickly caught our attention—wildlife we’re used to seeing, plus gorillas and the shoebill we missed in Zambia.
We got in touch with Paul, who’s been mentioned several times on the forum back in September, booked our flight tickets, secured the gorilla permits, and by early October, the most important things were done.
We still had plenty of time to hold our "prep meetings" for the final itinerary.
Three days before departure, I sprained my ankle (my weak spot, as you’ll recall from our Colombia trip).
I wasn’t in great spirits, but after a year of waiting, nothing was going to stop me.
We’d see how it goes!
Off we went for our new adventures
If you're looking for great tips and offbeat spots, if you love exploring uncharted parts of a country, if the exotic is your adrenaline, then move along!
Our 15 days in early May in this part of Turkey (a country I first discovered during a city trip to Istanbul in 2017) will only tread well-worn paths and revisit popular routes. Simply because I kept hoping until the very end that our flight to Jordan wouldn’t be canceled. Events in the Gulf proved me wrong, so we left with:
Zero preparation.
Not a single hotel booked (well, except the first one), no visits planned, just a flight ticket bought three weeks earlier. No guidebook, no app—just the desire to explore southern Turkey and Cappadocia, whose images and the chance to stretch our legs had caught my eye.
Oh, wait—I did bring along a new guide: Gemini! Yes, my friends, generative AI was my chief advisor throughout the trip for sites to visit, accommodations, routes, and even restaurants! An experiment I wanted to try to form my own opinion on using this new technology. And what better way to test it than a Turkish getaway?
The verdict? You’ll have to wait for the trip recap to find out!
The main idea of the trip is also relaxation.
So, the plan is Antalya for a few days, the Turkish Riviera for a few more, Cappadocia as the highlight, and a return via Antalya to wrap up the trip. And it was all planned by AI!
So, if you're ready, fasten your seatbelts—cabin crew, doors to automatic and cross check—boarding for Turkey now!
It often happens that we're asked what to visit in Belgium.
And the answers usually point to Bruges, Ghent, Antwerp, and Brussels—and rightly so, as these cities are well worth visiting ;).
However, Belgium, though small, isn’t just limited to these four cities.
I live in one of them (Brussels), enjoy spending time in the other three, but I’d like to highlight some lesser-known spots that could add to the trip for those who want to see a bit more or something different.
Between trips, I like exploring one or two corners of the country where I live.
Hence the idea for a travel journal of walks.
Most of the places I’ll talk about can be visited as a day trip from Brussels, whether by public transport or car.
In chronological order of the topics covered:
- The Gileppe Dam (Liège province) - message 2, page 1
- The Domaine de La Hulpe (Walloon Brabant) - message 3, page 1
- Mechelen (Antwerp province) - message 4, page 1
- The coast - message 5, page 1
- The Westhoek, from De Panne - message 6, page 1
- The Zwin, from Knokke - message 7, page 1
- Lier (between Mechelen and Antwerp) - message 8, page 1
- Mons (Hainaut) - message 9, page 1
- The Florenville region - message 12, page 1
- The East Cantons - message 13, page 1
- Dinant - message 18, page 1
- The Japanese garden in Hasselt - message 24, page 2
- Leuven - message 29, page 2
- Louvain-la-Neuve - message 32, page 2
- Ostend - message 42 (page 3) and message 166 (page 9)
- The floralies of Groot-Bijgaarden - message 43, page 3
- Halle Forest - message 44, page 3
- Pralines - message 54, page 3
- Charleroi - message 68, page 4
- Namur - message 92, page 5
- Le Bois du Cazier (Marcinelle) - message 95, page 5
- Couques and gosettes - message 96, page 5
- Liège - message 99, page 5
- Tournai - message 115, page 6
- Oudenaarde - message 121, page 7
- Meise Botanical Garden - message 124, page 7
- Tongeren - message 125, page 7
- Beersel Castle (Flemish Brabant) - message 126, page 7
- Brussels in lockdown (messages 150 and 154, page 8)
- Notre-Dame à la Rose Hospital in Lessines (messages 161 and 162, page 9)
- Westende (message 167, page 9)
I’ll keep updating this list as the journal progresses...
This trip had been on my mind for about fifteen years.
But the discomfort of overnight stays, the difficulty of communication, and the prices of the few car rental options kept making me postpone the project.
And then, everything suddenly fell into place—I told myself, it’s time!
The preparations took longer than usual; the destination is still far from mainstream.
A bit of Kazakhstan?
Not in the end.
The south or not the south?
Yes, in the end.
Pre-book or go with the flow?
Only two stops were a leap into the unknown.
To help me find the ideal route, I made great use of this forum (thanks to everyone for patiently answering my questions!), pored over travel journals and blogs (Christian, Jeff), zoomed in on Google Maps and Yandex, and bought the guide published by OunTravela about this destination (the guide has been updated since).
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You’ve got your passport, international driver’s license, bank cards, and euros?
Off we go to Lyon—just one night left before our early morning flight.
Tomorrow night, we’ll be sleeping in Bishkek!
(Steak for my partner’s mischievous nephews...)
You’ll find here a post with some practical information.
And here, the version of the travel journal without comments.
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As a supplement, the route track.
Not necessarily ultra-accurate since Google has serious gaps for this destination...
Sundance Square Plaza is located in the heart of the eponymous district. A certain harmony emanates from the architecture of the surrounding buildings.
We walked up Main Street to admire the Tarrant County Courthouse, a replica of the state capitol, which apparently often appeared in the TV series *Walker, Texas Ranger*.
After exploring this splendid downtown, we got back in the car to head toward the Stockyards National Historic District. We parked among the first cars in the huge lot bordering the main street and were irresistibly drawn to the shop on the corner, showcasing cowboy boots and clothing... and we completely ignored the signs.
At Stockyards Station, there are plenty of restaurants and souvenir shops. We took the chance to stock up on memories amid cowboy outfits, boots, and all sorts of Made in USA souvenirs.
or even a few seconds on the back of a longhorn for about $5. Didn’t feel like trying, especially since the cow looked miserable in the scorching heat.
Despite how brief the show is, we have a blast—the succession of horns is impressive!
We recognize the setting that was briefly used for filming the *1883* series during a scene in Fort Worth.
In my itinerary, I had planned to attend a rodeo scheduled for 8:00 PM at the Coliseum. However, in the afternoon when we walked by, we found the arena really small compared to the one in Cody.
Afraid of being disappointed—and knowing we still had over 4 hours to wait until the show started—we all got lazy and decided to head back to Dallas instead.
In the same neighborhood is Swiss Avenue, a surprising street that houses some of the city’s most luxurious villas. In this district listed on the National Register of Historic Places, various architectural styles follow one another, and no two buildings look alike!
We can’t linger too long because at 10 AM, we’re off to Southfork Ranch for a guided tour of the famous ranch where the *Dallas* TV series was filmed. The ranch is still about thirty miles from downtown.
The interior rooms were apparently reproduced more or less faithfully compared to the studios.
The giant Eyeball, a realistic fiberglass sculpture
Walking toward City Hall, we get an interesting angle on a group of downtown buildings.
City Hall itself isn’t anything special. However, the view enjoyed by the employees is much more interesting.
We then reach Reunion Tower, one of the city's most iconic towers. At the top of this tower, there's a sphere containing a revolving bar-restaurant, Five Sixty, surrounded by a metal mesh with nearly 260 lamps that light up at night.
I bought a combo ticket that allows for a double visit: a trip to the top during the day for a panoramic daytime view, then a return in the evening to enjoy the downtown illuminations. We even get a cheesy family souvenir photo before taking the elevator. Can't share it on the forum... 😄
The view of County Courthouse, located right next to Dealey Plaza, is just as stunning!
After a quick elevator ride down, we enjoy a view of County Courthouse from street level.
And here's Dealey Plaza, the famous square where JFK was assassinated on November 22, 1963. At the corner of the street is the Sixth Floor Museum, a museum that details the assassination. At nearly $20 for entry to a simple museum, we're a bit put off and decide to skip it.
We continue to the memorial dedicated to JFK. Though it looks rather ordinary, it has the distinction of having been erected by the people of Dallas.
Bank of America Tower
The metal structure stabilizing Reunion Tower lights up blue thanks to hundreds of lamps.
I then suggest to the family that we head to the trendy Deep Ellum neighborhood, but we’re all exhausted from this very long day, so we decide to head back to the hotel for our last night in Dallas.
The Excelsior House Hotel, the oldest hotel in Texas, is still in operation.
Right across the street, we discover Jay’s Gould Railroad Car, the luxurious personal carriage of businessman Jayson Gould, who invested in rail development. At the time of our visit, the carriage isn’t open for tours, so we just walk around it and peek inside.
One of our favorite spots is the Jefferson General Store, which offers absolutely everything imaginable—from groceries to souvenirs, toys, and beauty products. The decor is busy but stylish, and you can even grab a coffee while playing checkers!
The First National Bank, another remarkable building.
We take a quick detour to Oakwood Cemetery before continuing toward Uncertain, which borders Caddo Lake. Some towns still have decorations from the Fourth of July.
And here we are in Uncertain, where I’d read it was possible to rent canoes to explore the heart of the bayous. But the dock is deserted, so we walk along the lake looking for a canoe rental. No luck—the two places I’d noted, which dated from before COVID, no longer exist.
Then we see a guy arrive in his massive 4x4 and launch his boat. We obviously ask if he offers tours or knows someone who rents canoes. He explains he’s in charge of cleaning the bayou and doesn’t offer any tourist services.
The inner area offers a clearer view of Caddo Lake and its iconic cypress trees.
Every now and then, we hear the distant hum of a motorboat in the main canal or the cry of a bird we’ve startled. We’re so glad we chose the no-motor option...
Even if it’s not super obvious in the photos, small posts placed regularly along the route help with navigation.
We just can’t get enough of these submerged cypress forests!
With our arms starting to tire, we decide to play it safe and retrace our steps through the inner area of Caddo Lake, where the current is very weak. Good call—on the way back, we realize we’re slightly against the current.
The different views of the lake are stunning thanks to the soft morning light, though the trees are sparse and far less photogenic than the ones at Caddo Lake the day before. Without many trees, we enjoyed the blooming water lilies in the serene atmosphere and took pleasure in watching the few birds that landed on the surrounding trees.
A beautiful bird striking a pose for us.
Again and again, those water lilies we never get tired of.
We then completed the second part of the loop through a swampy forest where the waters were covered in moss and duckweed.
Next, we headed to Natchez, with some typical Southern houses.
Our first stop was the Historic Natchez Cemetery, which is so vast that it’s possible—and recommended—to visit by car. No photo can truly capture the immensity of the site!
Some of the isolated or lined-up trees along the paved paths are remarkable.
Near the public cemetery, there’s also a military cemetery with rows of tombstones that create a striking visual effect.
Back in town, we set out to find the first historic home on our itinerary.
The bedrooms still feature canopy beds, which were more practical for hanging mosquito nets.
After an hour-long fascinating tour, we take a little stroll outside. It’s impossible to sit on the wrought-iron benches for more than 10 seconds—they’re scorching in the blazing sun.
We deliberately skip Longwood—it’s impressive from the outside, but the interior was never finished and tends to leave visitors wanting more.
When we rest on the benches under the main façade’s portico, we discover a stunning view of the Mississippi River, which once prompted Union General Walter Gresham to requisition the home during the war. Thanks to his kindness, the owners of Rosalie were able to preserve all their belongings.
Next, we visit St. Mary Basilica, known for its magnificent stained-glass windows.
Then, in the Natchez-under-the-Hill district, we stop by Forks of the Road Slave Market Site, where the second-largest slave market once stood. This memorial site is minimal—just a lawn and a few informational panels to ensure we don’t forget...
It’s barely 4:30 PM, but we decide to head to our hotel—or rather, our Linden Manor, a historic Bed and Breakfast.
When the manager shows us our suite—two bedrooms decorated with period furniture—we’re instantly transported back in time.
To wrap up the day, since we can’t dine at Linden, we head downtown, where I found a highly rated spot on Tripadvisor: Le Pig Out Inn Barbecue. The interior décor is more cafeteria-style, with plastic trays and cutlery, but the meat is delicious and easy on the wallet!
We’re served an excellent tart with scrambled eggs and potatoes, all accompanied by a single roll.
Next, we visited another plantation, Rosedown Plantation, located near St Francisville.
Inside, the original furniture has kept its initial placement.
In the bedrooms, you can admire the richness of the curtains, Aubusson carpets, embroidery, and rosewood furniture in the Gothic style.
Many boxwoods, typical of this type of garden, are really not in great shape.
The main alley is majestic, as is the case for many plantations.
We make our way to Grace Episcopal Church and its adjoining cemetery, where we find the graves of the Turnbull family, owners of Rosedown House & Plantation. The guide had just told us their story and the tragedies that befell them.
Due to the closure of Afton Villa Gardens and the lack of things to see in St. Francisville itself, we have time to check out Cat Island Wildlife Refuge—a Plan B I couldn’t find any info on.
Next, we head to Baton Rouge, the capital of Louisiana, which we’re scheduled to visit in a week. Tonight, we just stop for a fast-food dinner at Wendy’s to finally try the burger that was voted the best in the U.S.!
After reading glowing comments in various blogs, I expected to see many more beautiful mansions, like in the French Quarter of New Orleans, which we’ll discover in a few days. We were a bit disappointed, and the heat didn’t motivate us to explore every street in the downtown area more thoroughly.
I suggest visiting the Richards-DAR House Museum to the family, but after seeing so many plantation-era homes already, everyone prefers to cut the downtown visit short to get started on the USS Alabama Battleship Memorial Park as soon as possible—the highlight of the day!
The sprawling site features about thirty historic aircraft, each more impressive and unique than the last.
As a little preview, we check out some military equipment: planes, tanks, missile launchers...
Before starting the tour of the famous battleship, we walk to the end of the pier for a panoramic view of the USS Alabama.
After paying for our tickets, more stunning examples of aircraft, seaplanes, helicopters, and other military vehicles await us in a massive exhibition hall.
The inside of the submarine is perfectly maintained, making the visit totally immersive. We’re all impressed by the multitude of equipment and the space optimization. We still wonder how a crew of several dozen men could live completely self-sufficiently for weeks.
We even get to go up to the upper level to the periscope.
This warship, capable of carrying over 1,500 sailors, is so huge that we don’t know where to start the tour! A paper guide with numbers helps create a "school-like" route. But we spent so much time in the USS Drum, and it’s already 3 PM, with the site closing at 5 PM.
We decide to explore by feel, starting with the exterior.
You almost feel like you’re there... even if we’re much better off in 2023...
Back inside, with dozens of restored rooms and engine rooms just like they were back then.
The interior is structured like a real small town, with all the services and medical care needed for the sailors.
We also take the chance to climb to the upper levels to reach the highest point open to visitors. From there, we can get close to all the light and heavy artillery!
We’ve been at Memorial Park for 3.5 hours—time flew by, and we would’ve gladly stayed another hour! But the site’s closing, so we head back to our car to continue our drive to Florida, heading toward Pensacola.
Fort Pickens is pretty sprawling, but its exterior doesn’t really tempt us to explore it further.
There are a maximum of 10 people on this stretch of beach, which spans several hundred meters. Pure bliss...
After more than 2 hours, we leave the protected area to check out another beach, but we don’t linger—the sun is beating down, and we want to avoid getting badly sunburned.
Plus, the water color is way less appealing than yesterday. We swim anyway, but after 20 minutes, everyone’s already out. We watch the spectacle of Americans spending their time drinking beer cans in the water—almost everyone has one in hand!
an Irish pub, and various quaint shops.
The villa was built along the Fowl River, where we spot a family being pulled on a giant inflatable tube.
A little further on, we reach a boardwalk that overlooks a marshy area, which, according to the information signs, is frequented by water snakes and alligators.
All we see is a huge grasshopper and a few really ugly spiders.
There’s also a Japanese garden, which is Japanese in name only. Really disappointing, since there are almost no plants in that section.
In the end, we found the visit to this garden rather disappointing. The photogenic and plant-rich areas are really limited. And given the almost nonexistent crowds we saw this morning, we’re thinking the financial situation isn’t going to improve...
Since it’s 3 PM, we take the opportunity to head to our BnB in the Bywater neighborhood, a working-class area a few miles from downtown. We park the car for the next two days in an inner courtyard and start unloading everything from the car—just to avoid tempting fate.
We make our way to the southern end of the Vieux Carré, toward Canal Street, then head toward the Mississippi. Some of the wrought-iron balconies are absolutely stunning.
As night falls, we head back to Bourbon Street for a cocktail while strolling through the now-infamous street. The vibe is lively and fun, but honestly, it wasn’t what I’d imagined we’d experience here!
After dark, people really let loose—many have a beer or cocktail in hand, and each bar has its own band to draw in customers. Some singers are fantastic, while others wouldn’t make it past the *The Voice* auditions...
By the end of the evening, we walk up Canal Street to catch our bus back to our BnB.
Jackson Square and St. Louis Cathedral, where we appreciate both the cool air and the quality of construction.
On the way to Chartres Street
Here we are in front of BK House, which is closed to the public according to a sign on the gate. At the exact time of the tour, with still no guide in sight, we start to doubt. So we "force" our way in, despite the sign, and discover our guide was waiting inside.
After lunch at an excellent pizzeria, U Pizza, near the Garden District, we start exploring this second neighborhood, which contains many pre-Civil War homes built by Anglo-Saxon immigrants in the mid-19th century.
Neo-Greek and Italianate styles dominate the area, but you’ll also find many homes with the famous wrought-iron balconies. Several are undergoing restoration.
We continue our stroll through the area bounded by St. Charles Avenue, Jackson Avenue, Magazine Street, and Louisiana Avenue.
By 4 PM, everyone’s exhausted, so we decide to head back to our place to rest and have dinner.
Next up is the 1850 House & Museum, also bordering Jackson Square. The house is small and less lavishly furnished than the other historic homes we’ve visited, so we’re a bit underwhelmed.
Another evening in the French Quarter—no surprises—trying to find streets with atmosphere, but we inevitably end up back in the touristy areas...
followed by a second stop at Evergreen Plantation, which we were determined to see—even if just from a distance—since it was the filming location for Tarantino’s *Django Unchained*.
Along the way, sugarcane fields stretch endlessly...
By 8 AM, we’re at Oak Alley Plantation right as it opens, famous worldwide for its alley of 28 three-hundred-year-old oak trees. One of the best photo ops is at the gate—no entry fee required.
The plantation isn’t open to the public yet, and the gardener takes advantage of the quiet to perfectly manicure the lawn.
Some of the cabins have been restored to show what life was like for enslaved families, and several personal stories are shared.
We then follow a path shaded by another row of oaks to reach the main house, where our guide is waiting.
A few of the oaks look a bit worse for wear, but the scene remains breathtaking!
All this beauty tends to immerse us in the romance, Creole culture, and past grandeur—but it’s impossible to forget that this splendor was built on slavery and the deaths of thousands of Black people.
After the tour, we take another full lap around the gardens, which only cover a tiny fraction of the plantation’s original 450 hectares. Another angle of the villa, symbolizing the extravagant opulence of the old plantations!
But we quickly discover where the real interest of the guided tour lies. Unlike our recent experience at Oak Alley Plantation, here the guide tells us in minute detail the story of four generations of free and enslaved members of a Creole family from Louisiana.
In one of the cabins, we see an authentic register listing the value of each slave according to their category. But our guide’s fascinating account doesn’t just detail the period of slavery—it also covers the very long post-Civil War era, with all the challenges of a society where everyone was now supposed to be free.
The water lily ponds, ancient oaks, and benches invite us to wander... or maybe it’s the huge steaks we ate less than an hour ago!
A few Japanese-style ponds add to the changing atmosphere.
Time is ticking, and we need to reach our next home for the next four nights in New Iberia. Since self-check-in is possible thanks to a lockbox, we decide to stop by Lake Martin, where we’ve planned a boat tour in the coming days. With no offices open, we book five spots for the sunset tour through the Cajun Country Swamp Tour website.
We’re even lucky enough to spot several dark shapes, their upper parts just breaking the water’s surface, moving silently without a ripple. Alligators... And in the distance, a wading bird prowls stealthily, hunting for a fish or two.
A small path led us away from the main trail and into exotic vegetation. A warning sign reminded us that alligators might be around.
We all froze—wondering if we were really safe or if an attack was possible!!
A remarkable oak, the oldest and most impressive in the park.
We continued through tropical plants, a bamboo grove, a wisteria tunnel, and even a 12th-century Buddha at the heart of a Chinese garden before reaching the bird garden. To get there, we climbed to the top of a promontory overlooking a huge lake covered in duckweed. Online, you can find photos with thousands of birds on the various structures designed to welcome them.
We were clearly not there at the right time. With this heat, the few birds around barely flew before returning to rest in the shade of the trees.
It was already noon when we got back to the car, and then we headed to the Tabasco factory to learn all about how the famous hot sauce is made. The tour is self-guided, but the signposted route is well done with explanations all along the way.
After another mix with a special salt, the mixture is bottled.
The renovated buildings feature very bright colors.
The school proudly displaying an American flag.
There’s even a chance to cross the bayou on a floating dock, using a rope tied on both sides. We admire the bravery of a Quebecer who doesn’t hesitate to dip their fingers into the swampy water, which looks pretty unappetizing.
Of course, you can explore the rest of the village without making that crossing! More beautiful reconstructed houses.
We would’ve loved to stay longer, but the village closes its doors at 4 PM. We say goodbye to the actresses bringing this site to life,
We honestly couldn’t get enough of the scenery—or the alligators, which I happily photographed from every angle.
As the sun began to set, we started making our way back, picking up the pace.
The guide took us to a tree with a hollow trunk that served as a refuge for birds.
And just like that, this amazing adventure came to an end—we were completely blown away!
Finally, back to our home sweet home for a night where we’d all be dreaming of alligators.
Where there’s sugarcane, there are harvesting machines and processing plants.
The main attraction in Baton Rouge is the USS Kidd, the famous destroyer that survived World War II, serving in the Pacific, the Philippines, and Korea. It’s named in honor of Admiral Kidd, who commanded the USS Arizona and died in combat during the attack on Pearl Harbor.
Size-wise, it’s nothing like the USS Alabama—it looks tiny in comparison! Then again, destroyers are meant to be fast and maneuverable.
The various cannons are in excellent condition.
Besides the exterior, you can visit the interior facilities, like the engine room, kitchen, mess hall, and cabins.
After touring the ship, we spend time in the naval museum admiring model ships and several World War II planes, then head to the Louisiana State Capitol.
Then the modern version of the Capitol. The steps leading up to it have the names of various U.S. states engraved in capital letters.
We make sure to go up to the top floor for a panoramic view of the city. Some angles are flattering,
while others, with views of the many factories, are much less so!
After another dinner at Duffy's Diner, we end our evening by opening a bottle of pecan liqueur bought at Laura Plantation. We’ll have to finish it before the end of our trip!
The very wide canals follow one after another, without us winding through the submerged cypress trees.
And every 10 minutes, the guide calls the alligators, who show up immediately for lunch. In nearly 3 hours, we fed about twenty alligators begging for chicken scraps!!
Ah... we finally reach a more photogenic area, and we’re lucky enough to spot some large birds!
Toward the end of the 3-hour tour, we get some lively Cajun music, and our guide puts on a real show!
Most of the houses are built in their own unique style, but you can also spot "row" villas with matching colors and layouts.
At the end of Route 87, we reach Port Bolivar, where the ferry terminal is located for the 3 km crossing of Galveston Bay.
In Galveston, we park on a street near Bishop’s Palace. This is the kind of mansion you’ll find around here—and it’s easy to see why people love living in this area!
Sacred Heart Catholic Church, a luxurious and unexpected church with an oriental style.
We would’ve loved to visit, but it was closed.
Built with colorful, carved, and engraved stone, this home’s interior is as grand as its exterior. Inside, you’ll find a vast living room furnished with rare woods, Murano glass chandeliers, and stained glass. Constructed between 1886 and 1892 under the direction of Nicholas Clayton, the building was inspired by French castles.
The most photogenic part of the house is its monumental spiral staircase, highlighted by the massive wood, intricate carvings on the railings and walls, and its stained glass. Every angle reveals its beauty!
We head down to the port, where we spot a few pelicans napping or preening.
We can’t help but laugh seeing all the birds searching for the tiniest patch of shade! When it comes to midday heat, it feels like being fully dressed in a sauna!
Each villa has a façade facing the canals that lead to the Gulf of Mexico. Still, we don’t see many docked boats.
We don’t have time to visit Moody Mansion, so we head back to our hotel, Crystal Suites, for just one night.
On the right, the "welcome marker"—those dates offered everywhere as a sign of hospitality. On the left, a tribute to those stunning doors worn by time, admired all over the old quarters, including the abandoned ones.
Hospitality will often lead you to accept a small coffee, an "Omani coffee," very light, subtly flavored with cardamom, maybe a touch of saffron, and occasionally rosewater.
Here, I’ve depicted a man in the common everyday attire of Omanis: the dishdasha, mostly white (during the week and daytime; colors are more common in the evening or on Fridays and Saturdays). While you’ll see some men dressed in Western clothes, they’re very few. The white dishdasha is truly the shared attire of all men. The dishdasha, which has no hood, is distinguished by a small pom-pom attached to the collar, the furakha, which is soaked in perfume. And believe me, Omanis go overboard with it! "It smells like the pom-pom" is an expression that’s now part of our shared language, my husband and I.
Another must of men’s attire is the kuma, a small round head covering, usually white with brightly colored patterns. The keffiyeh is also worn (but without the cord called an agal in Arab countries), and it’s mostly worn by those with roots in the desert, from what I understood.
And what about the women, you might ask? Some are veiled, some in full black (but not a burka—more like a chador + abaya), due to the influence of Saudi Arabia and the United Arab Emirates, whereas the traditional outfit used to be a layering of very colorful dresses. Most of the women we saw wore neutral clothing, a plain veil over their hair, but with their faces uncovered. We also saw many saris and colorful veils—don’t forget that 40% of the population consists of Indian, Nepalese, and Bangladeshi immigrants, who work a lot in tourism, hospitality, restaurants, services, and construction.
Just to clarify, as a tourist, there’s no pressure to wear a veil, and never any disapproving looks. Of course, you’ll save the mini shorts, plunging necklines, bare shoulders, and midriffs for the hotel terrace—but I’d say that’s the same for men and women, and with the sun being strong, it’s better for your skin too.
Here’s the introduction! In the next post, I’ll tell you about my itinerary, and we can dive in!
The large solidified magma massifs that shape the heart of the island have created a large depression more protected from the sun at its center, allowing the growth of a vast laurel forest, today grouped within the Garajonay National Park, La Gomera’s green lung, which has earned it the status of a World Biosphere Reserve. Its completely European appearance contrasts sharply with the rocky and tropical landscapes of the rest of the island. Thus, the climate varies greatly from one point to another on the island: in summer, you can quickly go from a dry and sunny valley at 35°C to a humid forest area at altitude at 18°C.
Last October, we landed in Marrakech to spend a few days with family exploring Morocco’s roads.
Transport: a rented Dacia.
Accommodations: small guesthouses.
Come along, I'm taking you to this country where it's so nice to wander and slow down...
I’m inviting you on a stroll through my drawings—a completely subjective, far from exhaustive, and totally personal take, since it’s based on my own sketches. I put this travel journal together after returning in late 2024, mostly using felt-tip pens and pencils, with a few collages thrown in. I worked from our personal photos.
And in Kyoto, Nishiki Market:
Roundabouts are particularly interesting because they feature emblems of Turkmen culture, like the dog, a carpet, the Ahal Teke horse, or Muslim symbols, even though the presence of Islamic artifacts is quite limited.
A little sneak peek?
