Vous avez vu une tortue de jardin dans un magasin près de chez vous... seul problème, son prix : 200 à 500 euros !
Vous arrivez en Tunisie, au Maroc, ... en cette saison idéale... et là, elles sont pour vous pour seulement 5 euros !
La bonne affaire que voila ! Et bien non.
La première chose que vous devez savoir c'est que cette tortue n'a rien à voir avec la Caroline de votre enfance
Bien que très ressemblantes les tortues d'Afrique du Nord ne font pas partie de la même espèce que les tortues de France. Elles ne supportent pas le jardin et ne peuvent en aucun cas se promener sur un carré de pelouse (l'humidité de la pelouse crée des rhinites qui finissent par tuer l'animal en un an ou deux) !
Si vous essayer de la sauver en vous rendant chez un vétérinaire spécialisé, il vous demandera d'investir dans un très grand terrarium et la facture sera au final beaucoup plus importante qu'une tortue achetée dans un commerce avec les papiers prouvant qu'elle provient d'un élevage.
Peut-être, vous vous dites que si elle meurt ce n'est pas trop grave car vous n'aurez perdu que 5 ou 10 euros... mais ça, c'est dans le cas où vous aurez passé la douane avec succès car en 2008, 26 personnes ont été prises en flagrant délit lors du passage en douanes. Prix de l'amende : 7 500 euros.
Par ailleurs, vous devez savoir qu'en achetant ces tortues vous appauvrissez la biodiversité du pays visité. Chaque tortue que vous pensez sauver mourra et sera remplacée par une autre capturée dans la nature qui mourra à son tour...
Alors si vous aimez le pays que vous visitez, si vous aimez la nature... ne les achetez pas !
Encore une chance...ces tortues sont encore vivantes...
Ce qui n'est pas le cas des Varans gris, des genettes, voir des hyènes rayées ou autre fouette queue...que l'on trouve chez tous les " herboristes ", vendeurs de gris-gris, du Maroc et qui pourtant figurent aussi sur la liste des espèces à protéger de l'annexe 1 de la convention de Washington....SIGNÉE PAR LE MAROC !!!!!
Les singes Magots et presque toutes les espèces de serpents figurent aussi sur la liste.
Mais on les retrouve à la vue de tous à Djemâa el fna ou ailleurs...
Les touristes " babas ", en mal d'exotisme, se pressent pour faire une photo de la gamine, un serpent autour du cou ( 20 dhs !!! ).
Ils ont raison de se presser car l'espérance de vie de ces reptiles n'est que de QUELQUES SEMAINES ( 1 à 2 mois tout au plus .. )
On se pame devant le flûtiste qui fait dresser un cobra au son de sa musique...alors que les serpents sont naturellement SOURDS...
Les seuls " charmés " semblent être les badeaux qui ne se doutent pas un instant que la position dressée n'est autre qu'une attitude de défense due à la peur et au stress engendrés par l'agression que subissent les reptiles tout le long de la journée par les manipulations et la présence hostile des passants...
La plupart des espèces ( Cobras, Vipères de Mauritanie ou " heurtante ", Couloeuvre de Montpellier ...etc ...) se voit retirer les crochets venimeux, occasionnant ainsi des abcès qui, irrémédiablement, provoqueront une mort lente et douloureuse.
Bien sûr, les touristes peu au fait de ces pratiques d'un autre âge mais que l'on regarde comme une " tradition " ( celle-ci à bon dos dans le pays pour faire passer tout ce qui est illicite ...) ne paraissent pas être les seuls fautifs....
Mais l'ETAT Marocain, SIGNATAIRE des conventions internationales....QUE FAIT-IL ????
Comme RIEN ne changera de ce côté, les touristes " RESPÖNSABLES " peuvent essayer de changer les choses en boycottant systématiquement ce genre
" d'animation " ....
Refusez de les regarder, de les photographier...et faites savoir que vous n''êtes pas d'accord...( gentillement...mais fermement.)
Le premier congrès de Marrakech, en 2007 ( ci-dessous ), a bien proposé d'inciter les touristes à ne pas acheter d'animaux ou de plantes...mais c'est encore une fois se voiler la face car les touristes ne sont qu'une infime partie de ceux qui traquent les espèces protégées.
Ce congrès aurait mieux fait d'interpeller directement les plus hautes autoritées du pays, qui ont, ELLES SEULES, le pouvoir de faire appliquer les textes internationaux QU'ELLES ONT SIGNE !!!!
Rien ne changera dans ce pays sans que les autoritées " responsables " ne le veuillent...--
" On peut juger de la grandeur d'une nation par la façon dont les animaux y sont traités. " ( Gandhi )--
Premier Congrès Méditerranéen d’Herpétologie « CMH1 »
16- 20 avril 2007 /Marrakech – MAROC
L’Appel de Marrakech
Les scientifiques de 29 pays, réunis pour le 1er Congrès Méditerranéen
d’Herpétologie à Marrakech, du 16 au 20 Avril 2007, lancent un appel solennel pour la protection de la biodiversité herpétologique du pourtour méditerranéen et d’Afrique du Nord en particulier.
« La vente massive des animaux et plantes naturels entraîne actuellement un très
grand appauvrissement de tous nos pays du Maghreb » déclare le Professeur Tahar Slimani de l’Université Cadi Ayyad. « Ce sont nos patrimoines naturels irremplaçables et nos cultures qui disparaissent et nous en sommes tous témoins » ajoute le Professeur Kalboussi de l’Université tunisienne. « Nous devons multiplier nos actions pour que les touristes européens cessent d’acheter des animaux menacés dans les pays qu’ils visitent » soulignent Antoine Cadi (Noé Conservation) et Bernard Devaux (Soptom, France). «La biodiversité actuelle est l’aboutissement d’un processus naturel, l’évolution, qui dure depuis des centaines de millions d’années. Comprendre la biodiversité, c’est comprendre son histoire par l’étude des fossiles», précise le Professeur Nour-Eddine Jalil de l’Université Cadi Ayyad.
Tortues, caméléons, fouette-queues, serpents, sont menacés par la disparition de
leurs habitats naturels et par le commerce. Les fossiles font aussi partie du patrimoine culturel et historique de nos pays qu’il faut étudier et sauvegarder. Les touristes devraient être désireux de pouvoir visiter des pays où ils pourraient admirer des animaux et des plantes uniques dans un cadre sauvegardé.
Il faut protéger notre patrimoine tout en préservant l’emploi et en améliorant le niveau de vie de chacun. Peut-on envisager une vie meilleure pour tous fondée sur la destruction de nos richesses? Les congressistes se sont accordés pour entamer des actions concrètes:
création d’un groupe de travail méditerranéen, lancement de programmes de sensibilisation et d’éducation, création d’un site internet d’information…
L’érosion de la diversité biologique de cette région méditerranéenne et de sa
mémoire (les fossiles), constitue non seulement une perte pour les populations locales, mais aussi pour l’humanité tout entière. Nous avons besoin du soutien de tous (des autorités publiques au citoyen), pour adopter une position responsable et contribuer à l’arrêt du déclin de la biodiversité d’ici 2010 comme nous nous y sommes engagés.
Contacts: Pr. Tahar Slimani, Faculté des Sciences Semlalia. Marrakech: slimani@ucam.ac.ma Pr. El Hassane El Mouden, Faculté des Sciences Semlalia.Marrakech:elmouden@ucam.ac.ma Pr. Nour-Eddine Jalil, Faculté des Sciences Semlalia.Marrakech:njalil@ucam.ac.ma Pr. El Alaoui El Fels My Ahmed, MHNM. Elalaoui.elfels@ucam.ac.ma Mr. Bernard Devaux, SOPTOM, France: soptom@wanadoo.fr Mme Barbara Livoreil, SOPTOM, France: BLivoreil@aol.com
Pour les Congressistes
Le Coordonnateur du “CMH1”
Pr. Tahar Slimani
Tu as bien fait de compléter mon message ; le mien est un peu orienté car je fais partie d'un forum consacré aux tortues et d'avril à juin, de nombreux nouveaux membres se connectent pour savoir comment maintenir les tortues.
Il ne faut rien ramener, vivant ou mort, plante ou animal sauvages. Prenez des photos et emplissez votre tête de délicieux souvenirs.
Des tortues de terre (testudo et pseudotestudo) des genres graeca, anumerensis, ibera, terrestris, kleinmanni, ... comme sur la photo que j'ai mise au début du sujet.
Bien évidemment, toutes les espèces sauvages doivent être protégées. Mais sur forum consacré à l'Afrique du Nord, je me suis dit qu'une mise en garde ne serait pas inutile en cette période où de nombreux Européens découvrent les merveilles de l'Afrique du Nord.
Coucou Michel,
Toi aussi tu m as fait peur quand j ai vu le titre !!! lol j arrivais déjà av mes griffes et puis je t ai reconnu tout de suite ... C bien de faire un peu d'infos, la stupidité des tourristes parfois, du à leurs ignorances évidement ...
Moralité, foutre la paix aux animaux et ne pas cautioner ce genre de commerce, tout ces pauvres animaux vendu ds les souks, quelle tristesse, le Marco à tellement d'autres richesses interresantes que ces etres vivants a moitié mourrant s !
Bon ds une dizaine de jours je serais sur Agadir aussi ...
bizzz
Caroline
On juge la grandeur et la morale d'une nation a la façon dont elle traite ses animaux.
Une petite question, la semaine passée au nord d'Agadir vers Tamri, il y avait un nombre assez important de dauphins et ce pas loin de la plage, est ce un phénomène habituel ? Perso, c'est la première fois que j'en vois.
Je ne connais pas cette région mais il n'est pas inhabituel que des dauphins s'approchent des côtes. Par ailleurs, les femelles lorsqu'elles mettent bas choisissent, comme les baleines, de le faire en eaux peu profondes.
Bonsoir,
Le 6 mars dernier, j'ai trouvé un cadavre (en état de décomposition assez avancée) de dauphin près de l'embouchure de l'Oued Massa (sud d'Agadir), sans trace apparente de blessure !!!
Je suis sénégalais qui vie actuellement au maroc et je veux acheter une voiture occasion en Espagne.et après 6mois je le sort dans ne territoire marocaine
He suis resident au Canada, et cette annee je pense aller passer 6 mois en Algerie pour etre a cote de mes parents, mais je pense transiter par la France pour…
Je me rends a El gouna pour une semaine. Lors de mon dernier séjour, le cout de carte wifi pré payée a l hôtel m a semble exorbitant. Est il possible d acheter…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
