Malheureusement ce qui ne devait pas arriver arriva.
Une attaque dans le sud Mali à qq kilomètres de la frontière ivoirienne et à un jet de pierres de Sikasso. Misseni en fait.
Cela fait suite à pas mal d'incidents et d'attaques dans le sud ouest et le centre du Mali, dont la dernière, une incursion d'une bande armée à Guiré il y a 7 jours.
Défaits au Nord, les djihadistes et bandits de ttes espèces attaquent désormais rapidement, à coup sûr en décalant aussitôt et ce, jusqu'à tout au sud. Probablement pour montrer leur capacité de déplacement quasi sans limites désormais et pour insinuer l'idée qu'on est nulle part en sécurité au Mali.
Malheureusement, je ne peux que confirmer les info de Rotsaka, je devais retourner aussi au Mali en octobre, et mes amis tant a Ségou qu'a Bamako et Sikasso me le déconseillent et me disent que des groupuscules se sont " rependus" un peu partout, et qu'il y a aussi maintenant des coupeurs de route et des gens qui rackettent, il semblerait que les habitants aient reçu un " numéro vert" pour signaler aux autorités tout mouvement suspect, ou nouveaux venus afin de pouvoir être informés.
A Ségou, le fleuve est même survolé par des hélicos, a priori de la Minusma ou Barkane, pour prévenir toute incursion djihadiste.
Je crains fort Béatrice que l'on doive retarder nos projets, pourtant il y a un an, je m'étais a nouveau sentie en sécurité, tout en n' étant pas allé au delà de Mopti, j'espérais que tout allait redevenir comme avant, mais...
oui ..... je suis navrée (le mot est faible) de voir comment cela va évoluer ... et pour les populations de la region plus que pour moi, (mais finalement tout le monde est concerné et pas seulement pour les voyages ...)
cela se sentait deja lors de mon passage en novembre-decembre-janvier au sud mali (très calme) , au burkina (dans le sud on voit très nettement l'émergence de mœurs dues à un islam rigoriste - j'ai même vu des bébés filles de 4-5 mois voilées dans le dos des mamans - nord du bénin idem , quartiers appelés par la population "quartiers boko haram" tellement les "barbus" sont présents et peu amènes.
je suis contente d'avoir effectué mon periple, rencontré des populations sympathiques, mais il y a beaucoup d'inquiétudes : au Mali et au Burkina, que de discussions j'ai pu avoir sur ce sujet ! même au sud du bénin : j'ai ainsi été interpellée au marché Dantokpa sur l'action militaire de la France au Mali. Alors qu'au Mali, on me disait "merci la France", à Bamako, à Segou, là au Bénin certains s'interrogeait sur l'EI : Islam? pas islam ? vives discussions entre béninois. Pourquoi la France bombarde l'EI ? ect ...
Nouvelle attaque au sud ouest cette fois : à Nara. Méfiance donc en particulier pour ceux qui envisagent encore de prendre le trajet entre Europe et Bamako en passant par Mauritanie et Nioro du Sahel. Cette zone reste hors contrôle et éminemment vulnérable. C est là qu'un camping cariste avait été enlevé puis tué.
Bonjour depuis Madrid, "rotsaka" et tous les camarades ici.
Il est incompréhensible l' empessement que tu as pour agrandir ou publiciter les petits exploits des djihadistes, les islamistes sunnites renovès au Malí, terre ancestral ( depuis s. XI...) du islamisme modere malekite, sunnite clasique, quelque chiisme depuis l'epoque coloniale...
Rien a voir le territoire abandonné par l'Administration Central depuis l'époque de ATT de Lere, Nampala, Nara, ou Bassikounou memme, avec la route goudrone du Poste frontalier de Goguin, la route qui descendre depuis Ayoum el Atrous jusque Nioro et Diama. Ce sont deux univers différents, ils l' ont toujours été. Tous les voyageurs fréquents sur ces latitudes savent que les pistes entre Nara, Lere et Nampala sont dangereux depuis le début de la décennie des 90.
Il est vrai que en 2011 les djihadiste on comise "l'exploit" ou " grand succès" de l'enlèvement d'un touriste français près de Diama, sur ce-la. Mais depuis les autorités locales ont mis en place les mesures nécessaires. Et milliers de voyageurs se déplacent habituellement chaque année depuis lors sans le moindre problème.
Je pense que tu joues le jeu des terroristes maximisant d'un faison irréaliste le véritable danger qu'ils représentent. Le mois prochain je vais faire un autre voyage là-bas. Et je vais vous dire mes impressions ici. Je veux voir par moi-même si les choses ont changé depuis la dernière fois que j'y étais en Janvier à 2015.
Je pense que les formes qui existent pour défendre notre liberté sont incompatibles avec la lâcheté. Salutations.
J espère que vous avez dit à tous les journalistes qui parlent actuellement des attentats en Tunisie, Koweit, Somalie et même France que ce ne sont que des complices des islamistes radicaux et qu'ils jouent leur jeu en transmettant juste des informations , Non ? Il ne faut pas parler des attentats d'hier car ce serait faire le jeu des islamistes ? Vite, passez leur donc le message : qu'ils se taisent car ils jouent le jeu des islamistes.
Il est incompréhensible l' empessement que tu as pour agrandir ou publiciter les petits exploits des djihadistes
OK alors ne disons rien. C'est cela la conclusion ? ou sinon quel délai nous accordes tu entre une mauvaise nouvelle et le fait qu'on en parle ici pour dire qu'on est pas empressé ? 1 jour ? 1 semaine ? 1 mois ? Je pensais, un peu bêtement, que plus tôt on est prévenu, mieux c'est pour adapter et prendre ses décisions.
Est ce que j'ai dit est faux auquel cas, OK, je m'incline, ce n'est pas bien car j'ai transmis une rumeur.
Sur ce site, c'est assez fréquent que le transmetteur de mauvaise nouvelle soit assimilé à la mauvaise nouvelle, votre réaction n'est donc pas très surprenante. J'y ai même eu droit quand je vivais au Mali et que soit disant j'étais un des destructeurs du tourisme au Mali parce que j'indiquais que la zone au Nord de Mopti et du delta étaient dangereuses.
Déjà j'ai vécu près de 9 ans au Mali en famille. J'y ai eu ma deuxième fille à la clinique Pasteur et y ai vécu et m'y suis déplacé jusque fin 2012/début 2013. Tous mes amis et collègues sont maliens. Je me suis balladé et ai fréquenté le Mali de Nioro à Sikasso et de Kangaba à Gao, de Nara à Mopti. J'ai vécu le coup d'Etat et les combats qui ont suivis pendant près d'1 semaine à Bamako et en famille. Bref même quand c'était la merdouille à cause des djihadistes ou de la situation politique, j'étais sur place alors me dire que :
Je pense que tu joues le jeu des terroristes maximisant d'un faison irréaliste le véritable danger qu'ils représentent.
me fait gentiment rigoler de la part de quelqu'un qui vit juste à Madrid et fait un voyage de temps en temps.
Le Mali, c'est un peu mon deuxième pays et je connais assez bien l'islam de là bas pour savoir qu'il n'a rien à voir avec les attaques et les djihadistes. Pas besoin que vous me le rappeliez.
J ai des connaissances et amis qui se sont fait enlever au Nord Niger et d autres qui ne sont pas passés loin au Mali bien avant 2013 alors pour ma part, ce n est pas de la blague et je ne vais pas aller faire mon mariole sur le site pour dire qu'il n'y a aucun risque. J'ai connu des gens qui ont payé le prix de leur prise de risque.
Voyager, se déplacer c est possible mais je ne vois pas en quoi être informé est inutile ou mal. Pour bien voyager, il faut être informé après on prend ses décisions en connaissance de cause. Je le sais pour me déplacer actuellement aussi dans des zones assez tendues en Afrique Centrale (Nord Kivu, Burundi). le plus d'infos j'ai, le plus en sécu je peux me déplacer.
Sinon comme tu le préconises, on laisse les gens dans l'ignorance et après on vient se plaindre en disant qu'on était pas prévenus ?
Et je vais vous dire quelque chose : tout le monde sait au Mali (même parmi les autorités) que la zone Nioro / Bamako est très vulnérable et cela ne date pas d'hier. Allez de Nara à Nioro discrètement, ce n'est pas bien difficile pour un gars motivé. L'enlèvement à Diema n'a rien d'étonnant, il fait suite à des enlèvements "miroirs" en Mauritanie (convoi espagnol, couple italo-burkinabe, français assassinés...). Et le Mali est bien moins controlé que la Mauritanie ou le Niger / Burkina. Ce n est pas la présidence d'IBK qui y change grand chose malheureusement. Des années de laisser allez à reprendre. IBK n'aura pas assez d'un mandat probablement.
Pour finir: "empressement à publiciser les petits actes des djihadistes" et "joues le jeu des terroristes", autant le dire franchement vous m'accusez d'être un complice des terroristes, c est cela ou j'ai mal compris ? C'est tellement insultant que je n'ai même pas de mot.
Vivez en Afrique pendant 20 ans en famille et puis revenez avec vos remarques.
Je pense que les formes qui existent pour défendre notre liberté sont incompatibles avec la lâcheté
Simplement pour finir, juste vous signaler que vos insinuations et propos me choquent profondément. Qu est ce à dire : que ma famille et moi sommes lâches de continuer à vivre sur un continent que de plus en plus de monde évite actuellement ?
Savez vous vraiment ce que c est de vivre avec ses enfants sous les balles ou la menace d'une attaque djihadiste ou d'un enlèvement ?
cool Din,
moi je trouve que c'est important d'avoir des news, non pas pour déserter le pays (j'y suis allée en novembre - décembre dernier et je compte bien y retourner) mais simplement car il faut se tenir informé. si on ne fait qu'écouter les médias en France ....🤪 donc on multiplie les sources d'infos, dont les sites comme celui-ci.
après c'est à chacun de faire marcher ses neurones.
merci donc !🙂
Merci de le prendre aussi simplement que cela le devrait. Des infos dont chacun fait bien ce qu'il veut. Rien de plus.
Je relate juste ce que je sais ou ce que j'apprends par ci par là. Aucune intention dans mes propos si ce n'est de relater ce que j'entends, je vois ou ce que je vis.
Pour ma part et dans mes déplacements, j'utilise toutes les sources d'infos alors je transmets aussi le peu que je sais en espérant que cela puisse être juste utile à autrui pour une prise de décision. Je fais aussi comme cela avec mes collègues et avec mes amis. Ils font de même avec moi et je leur en sais gré.
Ainsi
Un peu fatigué de me faire accuser de je ne sais quoi par je ne sais qui à propos d'un continent que j'aime et sur lequel j'ai vécu une grande partie de ma vie. Toujours en famille.
Bonjour depuis Madrid, "rotsaka", "cambrousse" et tous les amis ici:
Sans entrer dans les détails, vue l'étendue de ton commentaire je suis bien conscient que je t' ai dérangé avec le miene. ¡Il n' était pas mon intention!: S'il vous plaît, excusez moi.
En relisant ce que j'ai écrit je pense que je devrais apporter une précision au sujet de la dernière phrase: Parce que mon intention etè d'exprimer mes pensées de façon aussi concise que possible, avec des phrases courtes et rapides, je n'ai pas été assez précis.
L'adjectif calificative "lâche" n'a pas été dédié à vous; je voulais expreser, ou dire, l'idée générale de courage: Nous avons tous à nous défendre quand une agression vise detruire notre liberté. Ils visent à nous expulser de l' Afrique de l' Ouest, a nous phisiquement et a notre façon de voir la vie moderne du siècle XXI. Et à établir leur propre vue, celle du sixième siècle.
Je pense que nous devrions tous défendre nos valeurs et la façon de regarder la vie moderne avec courage et détermination. Sans être surmontées dans un domaine quelconque.
Bonjour,
Pas de souci. C'est aussi peut-être moi qui ai pris trop mal le message. Zen comme dit Cambrousse. Assez de conflit partout pour ne pas en créer sur le site.
Sans rancune donc.
Je pense que tu joues le jeu des terroristes maximisant d'un faison irréaliste le véritable danger qu'ils représentent.
Avez-vous vraiment conscience de la monstruosité de votre écrit ?!
Sans vouloir tout peindre en noir, je crains que le membre Rotsaka (que j'estime beaucoup !) aura encore souvent la chance de nous faire un rapport sur de tels incidents. Malheureusement, mais le proche avenir ne promet pas du bien ...
Mes conséquences personnelles : je ne vais pas visiter prochainement (et ce "prochainement" va durer longtemps) au Mali. Secundo, je vais me garder de recommander à qqn un voyage au Mali sur ce forum (le "cas Cambrousse" m'a détrompé) ... Et, svp, ne me dites pas que j'ai la paranoïa, ne me dites pas qu'une brique peut tomber sur ma tête en Allemagne ou que je peux glisser du canapée et me casser la nuque. Je ne supporte pas de telles bêtises* ...
Hery
*dans une autre discussion, je me suis discuté avec deux femmes qui ont, après l'attentat de Tunis, voté pour "continuer à visiter la Tunisie pour ne pas rendre service à l'EI". J'espère que vous connaissez le résultat fatal pour 38 ou 40 personnes ...
Bonsoir
Je ne veux pas en rajouter mais il y a eu encore une attaque à Fakola dans le Sud Mali (quasi à la frontière ivoirienne). La deuxième dans cette zone en qq semaines.
Tout cela traduit tt de meme quelque chose de la situation sécuritaire cette recrudescence d'attaques dans le Mali Sud. Pour ma part, je n ai jamais connu cela même dans les moments les plus difficiles qui ont précédé la guerre.
Alors si de devais retourner au Mali, j'en tiendrai compte. en tous les cas, pour ma part.
Bonjour depuis Madrid, "rotsaka" et tous les camarades ici.
Il est incompréhensible l' empessement que tu as pour agrandir ou publiciter les petits exploits des djihadistes, les islamistes sunnites renovès au Malí, terre ancestral ( depuis s. XI...) du islamisme modere malekite, sunnite clasique, quelque chiisme depuis l'epoque coloniale...
Rien a voir le territoire abandonné par l'Administration Central depuis l'époque de ATT de Lere, Nampala, Nara, ou Bassikounou memme, avec la route goudrone du Poste frontalier de Goguin, la route qui descendre depuis Ayoum el Atrous jusque Nioro et Diama. Ce sont deux univers différents, ils l' ont toujours été. Tous les voyageurs fréquents sur ces latitudes savent que les pistes entre Nara, Lere et Nampala sont dangereux depuis le début de la décennie des 90.
Il est vrai que en 2011 les djihadiste on comise "l'exploit" ou " grand succès" de l'enlèvement d'un touriste français près de Diama, sur ce-la. Mais depuis les autorités locales ont mis en place les mesures nécessaires. Et milliers de voyageurs se déplacent habituellement chaque année depuis lors sans le moindre problème.
Je pense que tu joues le jeu des terroristes maximisant d'un faison irréaliste le véritable danger qu'ils représentent. Le mois prochain je vais faire un autre voyage là-bas. Et je vais vous dire mes impressions ici. Je veux voir par moi-même si les choses ont changé depuis la dernière fois que j'y étais en Janvier à 2015.
Je pense que les formes qui existent pour défendre notre liberté sont incompatibles avec la lâcheté. Salutations.
Bonjour. Rotsaka est digne de confiance. Ses informations toujours nettes et modérées nous ont souvent aidé. Vous jugez avec légèreté, incompétence et même insolence. Pauvre de vous !
Une attaque a eu lieu, vendredi matin, dans un hôtel où séjournent des Occidentaux à Sévaré, au Mali. Les autorités locales font état de sept morts, dont quatre militaires maliens
à savoir aussi que Sevaré se situe dans une zone ou on ne va pas .... très au nord de Bamako, mais je n'oublie pas Segou et Sikasso
la prudence s'impose
je voulais dire qu'en l'état des choses, en ce moment, y'a quasiment plus de touristes dans ce coin là, que de toute manière c'est une zone à éviter, même si on va au Mali.
je me suis mal exprimée surement.
lors de mon passage au Mali en novembre dernier, y'avait, même plus au sud, ligne Bamako-Segou, aucun touriste (de ce que j'en ai vu, de ce que m'en ont dit les maliens).
quant à aller chez les dogons .... il semble que ce ne soit pas vraiment une destination revenue.
voila ce que je voulais dire.
c'est un propos touristico-centré j'en conviens, les populations maliennes qui vivent dans cet endroit bien évidemment se déplacent, et je pense à elles et à leurs difficultés.
Pas besoin d'agresser béa, son commentaire n'est pas ridicule, il n'y a plus de touristes au Mali de toute façon et ça n'est pas prêt de changer.
Qui va aller visiter le pays dogon actuellement sauf quelques inconscients qu'on pourrait trouver de partout?
Lorsque tu ne sais pas où tu vas, regarde d'où tu viens (proverbe Africain)
Ni aujourd'hui ni jamais, la richesse ne suffit à classer un homme, mais aujourd'hui plus que jamais la pauvreté le déclasse (Charles Maurras)
d'autant plus que je me pose vraiment des questions : je voudrais repartir (je vais le faire) en janvier et je me dis :est-ce raisonnable de repasser par le mali, même au sud ..... ?
ce n'est pas de la peur, j'y suis passée en novembre, mais bon .... y'a eu ces agressions armées au sud, vers Sikasso et ailleurs encore..
bon ! ??
Ce n'est pas à moi à qu'il faut apprendre à ne pas se rendre au Mali . A l'heure actuelle aucune région n'est préservée surtout avec un nouveau venu , le FLM
Mon message était provoquant , je le concède. Quand je ne sais rien, je ne dis rien.
ha ne vous inquiétez pas, je suis bien placée pour savoir que parfois on réagit vivement sur un forum, trop vite , cela m'est arrivé... nous nous sommes expliqués courtoisement, seul cela compte.
oui, je suis dans les interrogations.
l'an dernir, je suis allée à bamako et Segou, et j'aurais aimé aller me "promener" plus dans les régions du sud .... tous les avis m'interressent.
Bonsoir
Pour ma part, je me poserai les memes questions et je pense que je retarderai un voyage de ce type dans les mois à venir voire plus si cela ne s'arrange pas (et cela n a pas l'air de s arranger, bien au contraire).
En effet désormais l'insécurité a diffusé tout le pays avec divers groupes qui se tirent la bourre pour savoir qui fera le plus de tort au pays, à ses concitoyens histoire de se payer sa tranche de notoriété et un éventuel wallalah.
Au sud et au centre du pays, ces groupes sont capables d'opérations ponctuelles et je n aimerai pas servir de trophée à ces malades qui trahissent et le Mali et l'islam.
Plus de nuit dans les campements peuls de Koumantou ni dans ceux du Beledougou donc. Tristement affligeant. En particulier pour les maliens qui en souffrent trop meme.
I'm looking for a fishing camp in Casamance, south of the Casamance River, between Djembering and Cap Skirring—not too isolated.
Any info on Villa Terranga? I’ve sent several messages but haven’t gotten a response.
Other fishing camps?
I’m heading to Abidjan, Côte d'Ivoire for a long stay from July to September 2026. Could you please recommend any apartments for rent or a real estate agency? Thanks
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
Thanks for your feedback, tips, etc.
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing:
23/07: Arrival in Santiago
24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days)
30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days)
05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days)
11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days)
15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike?
What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car?
Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike.
There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Hello from Quebec,
I’m a French-Canadian from Montreal. I’d love to go to Senegal during the Quebec winter to shorten this long season. Two people told me it’s not worth spending a lot of money to get there from Canada because there’s not much to discover. But I’m still skeptical. I’d love to read real testimonials from travelers who’ve been there, with as much info as possible. Thanks
Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
Thanks
Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time.
Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised).
Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day.
Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer.
Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well).
But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough).
Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like.
Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed.
Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great.
Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival!
I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy!
Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM.
Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha.
Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out.
Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo).
Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun.
Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule.
I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s.
If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options?
For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have.
Thanks so much for your help!
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands:
Arrival in Praia on July 8th
Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão.
We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much).
How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough?
Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot?
Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions!
Valéry
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe?
I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share:
- Your favorite places to visit and hikes
- Accommodations that charmed you
- Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet)
- Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao)
- Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights
- Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista
- Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao:
I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)...
For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.