Après une hausse démente (entre x5 et x10) du prix des camps avec leur privatisation il y a deux ans, le gouvernement du Botswana est en train de décider une hausse très importante du tarif d'entrée dans les parcs.
Moremi et Chobe : ancien tarif 120 pulas - nouveau tarif 350 pulas / pers / jour
Les parcs du Nord : ancien tarif 30 pulas - nouveau tarif 200 pulas / pers / jour
Voiture immatriculée au Bots : de 10 à 50 pulas
Voiture immatriculée hors Bots : de 10 à 150 pulas
Exemple : pour une famille de 4 à 3rd Bridge :
Camping : 2 adultes = 452p, 2 enfants (1/2 tarif) = 226 p, total = 678p
Parc : 2 adultes = 700p, 2 enfants (1/2 tarif) = 350 p, 1 voiture = 150p, total = 1200p
Total pour une nuit = 1878 pulas, soit presque 200 euros pour une nuit de camping basique !
Il semblerait que pour ceux ayant déjà décidé de leur séjour 2012, la seule façon de "profiter" des anciens tarifs soit de réserver et payer maintenant… Pour les autres, il est peut-être temps de regarder ailleurs, non ?
je crois que la politique clairement affichée est malheureusement d'en finir petit à petit avec les self-drivers dans les parcs.
Pour les entrées de parcs, on est encore loin des prix pratiqués au Kenya et en Tanzanie mais on s'en approche tout doucement également.
voir ailleurs ? Zambie c'est pareil sinon pire et peu accéssible au self drive
reste le Zimbabwe avec quelques incertitudes sur la situation économique du pays
je crois que la politique clairement affichée est malheureusement d'en finir petit à petit avec les self-drivers dans les parcs.
Sûrement ! Et avant de les saigner le mieux possible !
Pourquoi trouves-tu que la Zambie soit moins accessible au self drive ? Au premier abord et pour le peu que j'en ai lu pour l'instant, il semblerait que les résas ne soient pas obligatoires, en tout cas pas un an à l'avance comme au Bots… Les prix des parcs y sont effectivement élevés (30 USD pour South Luangwa), mais les camps ont l'air moins chers.
Hwange et Mana Pools au Zimbabwe sont effectivement bien tentants. Mais Robert est toujours là… Bien que j'ai lu aujourd'hui qu'il souffre d'un cancer généralisé et qu'il ne doit plus en avoir pour très longtemps. Mais va savoir ce qui va se passer après pour la succession.
Pourquoi trouves-tu que la Zambie soit moins accessible au self drive ? .
à cause de l'état des pistes, des conditions d'accès et de l'éloignement des parcs entre eux.
D'aller de Kafue à South luangwa c'est tout un programme.
C'est faisable bien sûr mais ça prend du temps
je garde un souvenir assez mitigé de ma visite du Kafue en 2007. Ça a peut-être changé depuis mais je n'y crois pas trop. 😉
.......je crois que la politique clairement affichée est malheureusement d'en finir petit à petit avec les self-drivers dans les parcs.......
Ce n'est pas nouveau, ni très surprenant.
Lorsque j'y étais fin mars 2010, j'avais entre les mains une revue hebdo (sudaf) de voyage.
En éditorial, le rédacteur sudaf interpellait (assez violemment) le ministre du tourisme du Botswana sur le pb des coûts. La réponse du ministre avait été claire. Il voulait supprimer les voyageurs indépendants "impossible à gérer" selon lui et sélectionner les voyagistes (les critères de choix n'ont pas été évoqués !!).
Le problème touche aussi les sudafs qui ont une culture profonde du camping et qui fuient vers la Zambie ou Angola.
Et ça durera tant qu'il y aura des benêts pour payer des sommes dingues...... le jour où il n'y en aura plus du tout, ça changera
Le problème touche aussi les sudafs qui ont une culture profonde du camping et qui fuient vers la Zambie ou Angola.
C' est bien vrai qu' en Namibie où on avait un peu côtoyé des Afrikaners (et + rarement des Anglophones) dans certains campings , parfois d' étape en étape , ils avaient une organisation et une pratique impressionnantes . Quelquefois même 3 générations qui voyageaient ensemble ...
Peut-être que les treks historiques (quand même il y a presque 2 siècles) et les étapes nocturnes autour du feu et à l' intérieur du "laager" vécus par leurs ancêtres ont imprimé ça dans leurs gènes ... 😉
Et ça durera tant qu'il y aura des benêts pour payer des sommes dingues...... le jour où il n'y en aura plus du tout, ça changera
Conclusion à mon avis un brin optimiste sur de possibles sains réflexes du consommateur pour "réguler le marché" .
Sur certains sites touristiques de l' Ouest gérés par les Navajos , les tarifs progressent assez fortement depuis des années , et la demande est toujours aussi forte ! ... 🤪
.....Peut-être que les treks historiques (quand même il y a presque 2 siècles) et les étapes nocturnes autour du feu et à l' intérieur du "laager" vécus par leurs ancêtres ont imprimé ça dans leurs gènes ... 😉
Je le pense aussi ...... le fameux "pot" en fonte bien noire, suspendu à un trépied au dessus du feu qui cuit, pendant des heures, je ne sais quelle soupe ou viande en est, à mon avis, la preuve. C'est assez drôle car cette gamelle est en vente dans tous les magasins d'"outdoor" en Afrique du Sud.
Conclusion à mon avis un brin optimiste sur de possibles sains réflexes du consommateur pour "réguler le marché" .
Sur certains sites touristiques de l' Ouest gérés par les Navajos , les tarifs progressent assez fortement depuis des années , et la demande est toujours aussi forte ! ... 🤪
Peut être, mais la réponse est dans ton propos. Tu dis que la demande est toujours aussi forte ...... donc les "benêts" sont encore là. Je rêvais de l'époque future où il y en aura beaucoup moins ..... crise aidant
Et puis, en Afrique, il existe des pays merveilleux, avec des gens merveilleux, et des animaux vraiment sauvages qui n'ont pas encore vu des hordes de 4x4.
Ce n'est pas le Moremi, le Chobe, Le Masai mara, Le Ngorongoro. Il faut chercher un peu et prendre le temps ......
Je le pense aussi ...... le fameux "pot" en fonte bien noire, suspendu à un trépied au dessus du feu qui cuit, pendant des heures, je ne sais quelle soupe ou viande en est, à mon avis, la preuve. C'est assez drôle car cette gamelle est en vente dans tous les magasins d'"outdoor" en Afrique d
Oui , c' est ça , le fameux "potjie" ou "potjiekos" ! (On avait vu tout ça il y a longtemps au musée des Voortrekkers de Prétoria)
De la cuisine bien mijotée et bien goûteuse sans doute , car c' est dans les vieux pots ... 😉
Moi aussi, la Zambie me titille.
South Langwa a l'air extra et Zambezi, pas mal du tout.
Les entrées sont chères, mais les camping tout à fait abordables.
Je le mets au programme... de 2013 peut être...
Big 5 pour small 4 ou l’Afrique Australe en famille : Le Cap, Namibie, Botswana, Zimbawe
- Partie 1 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3855088;
- Partie 2 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3990834;search_string=namibie
"D'aller de Kafue à South luangwa c'est tout un programme.
C'est faisable bien sûr mais ça prend du temps "
Ah bon?!, rejoindre la route vers Hook Bridge ou plus à l'est si vous êtes plus bas (piste vers le sud bien avant Mukambi), rejoindre Lusaka (2h30) puis emprunter la Great East Road jusqu'à Chipata. Descendre sur Mfuwé. La piste est en travaux pour être bitumée.
Un peu de temps c'est tout à fait normal étant donné la taille du pays...
Il semblerait que ce dernier tronçon, jadis très éprouvant, soit en pleine réfection.
Autre avantage de Zambie : les safaris à pied sont autorisés dans les parcs nationaux.
Big 5 pour small 4 ou l’Afrique Australe en famille : Le Cap, Namibie, Botswana, Zimbawe
- Partie 1 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3855088;
- Partie 2 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3990834;search_string=namibie
Bonjour Pierre77N et bonjour à tous.
Merci pour vos commentaires que je lis regulierement avec beaucoup d'interet.
nous partons 3 semaines au botswana en AOUT 2012. (3 defenders 12pax (6 adultes et 6 ados) chez AJC4X4)
J'ai reservé les campsites
5 nuits chobe (ihaha et savuti)
5 nuits Moremi (northe gate et xakanaxa)
2 nuits khumaga
J'ai enormement de questions, mais j'ai encore le temps pour toutes les poser.
Comment et à qui (une adresse?) payer les parks fees en avance pour eviter l'augmentation?
des idées d'hebergements sympas et pas cher pour : kasane, maun, serowe et gweta?
Mes choix de capsites sont ils bons pour: la faune? pour le confort (sanitaires)?
Merci d'avance
Serowe : Khama rhino sanctuary assez bon spot de campings avec game drive matinal pour aller voir les rhinos
Maun : Y a plein de lodges qui font camps, Audi camps, Crocodile camps... pour la pluspart ils sont situés pas loin de la route en direction de Moremi. Selon votre horaire d'arrivée à Maun, vous pouvez faire les courses et le plein de tout puis prendre la route direction Moremi et faire un arrêt au Kaziikini camp http://www.kaziikinicampsite.com/Kaziikini%20Campsite qui est bien plus sympa et isolé. (Y même possibilité de restauration sur place en réservant à l'avance.
Pour kasane, il y a aussi plein de lodges avec camps annexes les véritables camps sont en dehors. Si vous voulez dormir en hôtel à Kasane pour par trop cher : Waterlily lodge
Les camps que tu as choisi dans Chobe et Moremi offrent tous des blocs sanitaires décents avec WC, douches (eau chaude qui devient froide en fin de journée !!), grands eviers extérieurs pour laver vaisselle et linge, plus ou moins eloignés de ton camp.
Visites animalières de toutes tailles très probables, allant des inévitables hordes de babouins voleurs aux éléphants, hippo et même Lions... Ces visites se font le plus souvent la nuit donc très grande prudence dès la nuit tombée.
N'hésite pas pour tes questions...cela nous refait faire le voyage😉
Merci pour ces infos, j'ai en effet trouvé un formulaire sur le site de « maunselfdrive ».
J’étais déjà en contact avec eux, ils gèrent, en effet, quelques « public campsite » dans les nat. Parks Ca va symplifier les demandes, je les contacterai lundi.
Je vais aller voir les campings auxquels tu fais référence mais en fait, j'ai des fortes pressions du management familiale (60% de femelles dans la horde, je ne veux pas d'ennuis, moi) pour un peu de confort en sortie de "camping brousse" et je cherche plutôt des hôtels, Lodge, gites et autre hébergements en dur au meilleur rapport qualité prix.
Pendant que je vous tiens ;
Sais tu si le niveau de la rivière Boteli a commencé a baissé et si les pistes autour de khumaga sont praticables (mais j’ai encore le temps) ?
Voici le programme, si ca peut inspirer des réflexions, particulièrement les 160km entre Ihaha et savuti, est-ce trop long pour une journée ? Peut-on passer par la route ? Est-ce faisable par la piste le long de la chobe river ?
Tes "femelles "😮 n'ont pas tort, apres 6-7 jours de bivouac avec parfois des douches H.S, des nuits agitées du fait des zanimaux bruyants et envahissants, un peu de confort, c'est cool et réparateur.
A Kasane j'ai séjourné au Waterlily une année et au Kubu lodge une autre. Le Waterlily est bon marché mais il faut éviter les chambres côté route. Il y a deux niveaux de chambres : celle du RDC avec douche et wc privés et celle de l'étage avec parfois 3 grands lits dans la chambre et wc et douches communs.
Le Kubu offre des grands bungalows sur pilotis façon "out of africa", c'est très calme, intime mais bcp + cher.
A Maun j'étais en camp, donc joker.
Pour la rivière Boteti, j'ai tenté de la traverser en aout 2010 pour faire un petit raccourci entre le CKGR et Nxai : arrivé devant..on a pique niqué et..fait demi tour : impossible à franchir : une profonde et large riviere
Ihaha savuti en 1 journée : oui très faisable mais partir de bonne heure pour avoir une bonne marge.
La Chobe boat Cruise : Yes !! un moment magique, surtout avec le soleil couchant. Privilégie les petits bateaux à 6 places
A quelle heure arrive ton avion à Jo-burg ? car viser Serowe le soir même, après la fatigue du vol, le temps de recuperer les bagages, les 4x4 etc.. En arrivant tôt le matin, j'ai arrété ma première étape à Mokopane. et j'ai du y arriver vers les 16H00. Sachant que la nuit tombe à 18H00 et qu'il te faut une petite heure pour les formalités de frontière (un peu plus car vous êtres nombreux)... ca va être le rush.
Par contre Serowe-->Joburg au retour c'est sans probleme car tu peux partir tôt
Pour la journée Serowe--> Kasane compte 8/9 heures de route.
D'une manière generale, si tu maitrises l'anglais, je te conseille vivement de t'inscrire sur le forum SA 4x4 community où cela fourmille d'infos et de news fraiches sur l'état des pistes, les camps etc etc :
http://www.4x4community.co.za/forum/index.php
Sinon, as tu remarqué que de Kasane, tu pouvais faire une visite en une journée aux Chutes Victoria qui valent vraiment la peine...c'est....grandiose.
Merci pour tes commentaires pertinents (comme d’habitude sur VF):
Avant propos :
Concernant le sujet initial de la discussion en cours (j’ai conscience d’avoir largement digressé) ça ne va pas être facile de boycotter les Parks du Botswana sous prétexte d’augmentation des « fees ». J’ai vécu la même situation avec l’instauration des « conservation fees » en Afrique du sud il y a quelques années, mais je n’ai pas pu résister et j’ai continué à y aller régulièrement (d’autant que pour le Botswana, j’ai déjà réservé et payé les campsites).
Concernant ton dernier message :
Je vais réserver le Water-lily à Kasane (20 chambres seulement, je vais m’y prendre rapidement).
L’avion d’AF arrive à 09h50, effectivement, ça va faire short pour rejoindre Serowe. Mais si je m’arrête à Mokopané, il reste encore 1000 km a faire jusqu'à Kasane avec la frontière à passer, la aussi ça va faire très long. Les femelles vont me tomber dessus, c’est sûre. Il faut que je trouve quelque chose (help welcome).
Je me suis donc inscrit sur 4x4comunity.za , la Boteti est toujours très haute. (Bon ; il reste un an, un bon siphon de baignoire et hop, la voila vide, ou presque).
Vicfalls :
Cette année, je privilégie les parks et les animaux (c’est ce que je préfère en fait, particulièrement les éléphants qui sont, à mon avis, les animaux les plus sympa de la création) donc pour les Vicfalls, un jour peut-être mais j’appréhende la foule et les formalités, j’ai peur d’un truc genre « piège a touriste » mais c’est certainement un apriori, non ?
Pour l'avoir vécu l'an dernier, en convoi de 3 véhicules (pas plus !), avec des amis, c'est vraiment très sympa de voyager à travers Chobe et Moremi. Ça lève pas mal des angoisses qu'on pourrait trouver à se retrouver seul face à une piste inondée. Et les soirées sont inoubliables. Un seul bémol peut-être : j'ai l'impression que du fait de notre nombre autour du feu les visites nocturnes ont été peut-être un peu moins nombreuses qu'en petit comité.
Vous prévoyez de prendre le temps dans chaque parc, c'est bien ! Nous étions passés trop vite. J'espère seulement que le niveau du delta ne va pas continuer à battre des records chaque année, sinon, il va finir par devenir quasi impossible de circuler dans Moremi. Par exemple, en 2010, entre North Gate et Xakanaxa on passait avec 1m d'eau environ, cette année, plus d' 1m50 et piste fermée. L'an prochain ???
Comment et à qui (une adresse?) payer les parks fees en avance pour eviter l'augmentation?
Ce qui me semble le plus évident, c'est ce qu'avait fait Michelle (Rivièrefox), contacter directement la DWNP. MaunSelfDrive est réputé, mais j'imagine qu'il prendront une com.
Department of Wildlife and National Parks
P. O. Box 131 Gaborone, Botswana Tel. +267 397 1405 Fax: +267 391 2354 E-mail: dwnp@gov.bw
Si le mail n'obtient pas de réponse, tu peux faxer ou téléphoner.
des idées d'hebergements sympas et pas cher pour : kasane, maun, serowe et gweta?
Le seul que je puisse suggérer, c'est Maun Lodge à Maun. Prix raisonnables, chalets plutôt sympas, bon buffet, clientèle mixte tourisme/affaires et blancs/noirs ce qui est plutôt rare.
Pas vraiment dans la nature, mais après 10 jours en immersion, un petit retour vers la civilisation ne fait pas trop mal !
Mes choix de campsites sont ils bons pour: la faune? pour le confort (sanitaires)?
Oui, ils sont "évidents". Les sanitaires de Savuti sont un peu bof, mais il n'y a pas d'autre choix ! Tu pourrais peut-être juste basculer une nuit ou deux à 3rd bridge (North Gate, 1 nuit - Xakanaxa, 2 nuits - 3rd Bridge, 2 nuits) sauf que tu as déjà payé !
La Boteti monte plus haut que jamais, mais il y a un "ferry" vers Khumaga (connais pas personnellement). Le coup de la vidange de baignoire, je ne compterais pas trop dessus, la montée des eaux dans ce coin faisant suite non seulement à la montée des eaux de l'Okavango, mais aussi à des mouvements tectoniques quasi-imperceptibles qui inversent les pentes de ces étendues ultra-plates. Je peux me tromper, mais j'ai bien l'impression que la situation actuelle va perdurer quelques années.
Vic Falls… Je ne ferais pas le voyage exprès. Je ne ferais pas non plus tout le Caprivi juste pour y aller. Mais être si près et ne pas aller voir… Quand même !
Une fois payé les 30 USD de visa (Les formalités sont de la rigolade) et les 30 USD d'entrée dans le parc qui semblent surtout disproportionnées par rapport au niveau de vie apparent, c'est quand même un spectacle ! Après… rafting, saut à l'élastique, hélico etc, etc, on est pas obligé d'y passer !
Quand je dis regarder ailleurs, je pense à la Zambie, au Zimbabwe, au Malawi… De toute façon, je sais bien que le self drive dans la région revient très cher, mais c'est la seule façon (presque) raisonnable.
Merci pour ces réponses, ça commence a bien se préciser, super.
J’ai « mailé » au DWNP. Si j’ai une réponse positive et que j’arrive à payer les « park fees » 2012 au tarif 2011 je ne manquerai pas de vous le faire savoir.
Sur tes conseils, pour Maun
Je vais réserver au Maun-Lodge des familly challets, bon compromis et très raisonnables.
Sur les conseils d’Eric pour Kasane.
Le water-lily lodge, plus cher et il y a du pour et du contre sur les différents blogs en cours mais j’y crois (il est quand même pas donné).
Sous la pression, je vais étudier un crochet aux Vicfalls, vous pensez qu’il faut combien de temps ? Une demi-journée en se levant de bonne heure, c’est bon ?
Je vais essayé de supprimer une nuit à Khumaga (soit 1 iso 2) j’ai en effet peur qu’avec la flotte, ce soit pas aussi intéressant, un avis ?
Je vais réserver au Maun-Lodge des familly challets, bon compromis et très raisonnables
On avait dormi dans nu bungalow famillial du "Maun Rest Camp". C'était propre et agréable. Le prix était acceptable. On avait bien apprécié après les nuits de camping.
Le water-lily lodge, plus cher et il y a du pour et du contre sur les différents blogs en cours mais j’y crois (il est quand même pas donné).
On a passé une nuit au Water Lily et une au Chobe Safari Lodge. A prix équivalent, le CSL était vraiment plus luxueux (bouffe pas terrible compte tenu du prix).
Sous la pression, je vais étudier un crochet aux Vicfalls, vous pensez qu’il faut combien de temps ? Une demi-journée en se levant de bonne heure, c’est bon ?
Mais alors, une grosse demi journée, bien grosse. Ca dépend de ce que tu veux faire après.
Bon préparatifs
alex
Big 5 pour small 4 ou l’Afrique Australe en famille : Le Cap, Namibie, Botswana, Zimbawe
- Partie 1 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3855088;
- Partie 2 : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=3990834;search_string=namibie
Il faut prévoir la journée à Vic Falls quand même… Je suis aussi certain que pour rentrer, s'il n'est pas tard, ça vaut le coup de prendre par le parc le long du Zambèze. C'est ce qu'on avait prévu. Mais 2 4x4 sur 3 étant arrivés avec 20 h de retard, nos plans avaient été bien perturbés dans ce coin.
AMHA, personne de ton groupe ne regrettera d'arpenter le petit chemin qui fait face aux grandioses chutes....
Tu peux l'organiser cela via un TO local qui embarque tout le monde (plus simple pour les formalités) mais de toute façon il faudra se lever tôt (passage frontière) compte 3-4 heures pour bien prendre le temps de savourer, avec pique nique sur place. Retour donc dans l'après midi. A voir avec un TO local si tu peux enchainer avec une Chobe Cruise dont le départ se fait vers 15H00 mais cela risque d'être short. Si c'est faisable, la nuit qui suit va être un festival pour les neurones qui en auront pris plein la vue....bouh..que d'émotions
Pour les logements regarde la discussion du 2 décembre 2010 oùj e donnais des infos et des photos:
http://voyageforum.com/...4;page=unread#unread
Re: Circuit de vingt et un jours au Botswana en hiver austral 2011
Au Water Lily (photo 5-6-7 du message ci-dessus renseigné) nous étions au 2ème ét., jolie petite chb, sdb, WC privé, avec Air Co, - photo ci-dessous- donnant sur le jardin et piscine (calme), Chb 7 (+ n°6 pour notre fils).
Les dames ...qui t'accompagnent devraient apprécier.
Situation intéressante (banque et Spar), l'hôtel s'occupe d'organiser de nombreuses d'excursions.
Je te conseille de reconfirmer ta résa 2 ou 3 mois avant de partir et encore la veille de ton départ !
Plusieurs personnes (dont nous)ont eu la mauvaise surprise qu'on leur dise qu'il n'y avait pas de résa !
Un des gérants du camp Kwando (Caprivi) nous a raconté avoir eu aussi cette blague : résa qlq jours plus tôt, OK puis lors de son arrivée, pas de résa !
Heureusement cela s'arrange finalement bien en général.
Il faut souvent s'armer de patience pour les échanges avec le Botswana : DWNP, pareil pour le Water Lily ( Pimprenelle a eu les mêmes difficultés), pour le Liya (photo 3)et pour le Gweta lodge.
Est-ce dû au tempérament assez lymphatique des Botswanais, aux mauvaises connections internet ? Un peu des deux je pense 🙂
Pour les paiements des entrées de Moremi , dès le paiement exécuté par notre banque j'ai reçu confirmation du DWNP par mail puis les "vouchers" et preuves bancaires une 2 ou 3 semaines plus tard par courrier.
A Maun nous avons logé à l'Okavango river lodge, notre chb était propre + moustiquaire+ ventilo au plafond mais elle avait vraiment bien besoin d'être rafraîchie .
Merci à Michelle, Pierre, Eric et/ou Carole et Alex pour leurs précieux conseils.
Info :
AJC4x4 en en joint venture avec Bushlore (le saviez-vous?), les véhicules réservés appartiennent à Bushlore, j’espère qu’ils sont en bon état (j’ai entendu de tout sur cette agence de loc.).
Petit souci avec AJC4x4, Nandi m’a fait une cotation valable 60 jours. 15 jours après, au moment de payer l’acompte, la facture était plus élevée de 70 rand par jours et par véhicule.
Apres de longues palabres, nous avons fini par nous entendre sur la mise à disposition d’un GPS à 0€ mais ça ne compense pas tout, soyez vigilants.
Apres réflexion, nous zappons certainement les Vicfall (au maximum, nous prendrons la decision sur place) , je sais que ça ne va pas plaire à tout le monde, mais nous avons peu de temps a Kasane et je ne veux pas tenter de modifier les resa dans Chobe et Moremi, c’est déjà assez compliqué a organiser avec la multiplicité des agences gestionnaires de campsites.(à mon avis, ils ne veulent plus de self drivers)
Salut,
Oui, j'ai fait des demandes de prix pour 2012 et j'ai vu qu'AJC4x4 travaillait avec Bushlore. Du coup ils demandent un peu plus cher pour la même prestation et ne proposent pas les mêmes possibilités de pick up/drop off !
Dommage, ça semblait intéressant de passer par une compagnie plus petite…
La plupart des retours sur Bushlore sont bons, en tout cas leurs véhicules semblent corrects. Le problème, c'est qu'en cas de panne dans le bush, ils t'abandonnent à ton sort (en tout cas c'est ce qui est arrivé à Eric et Carole). Mais je me demande si d'autres loueurs feraient mieux à ce point de vue… D'où l'intérêt de louer un bon véhicule bien équipé pour limiter au maximum les risques de panne.
Comme convenu, je reviens vous faire part des mes démarches avec le DWNP.
La question était de faire le point sur :
o les démarches à suivre pour payer les « park fees » en avance.
o Les rumeurs d’augmentation
o La possibilité de payer en 2011 les tarifs en vigueur pour un voyage réservé pour 2012 ;
J’ai téléphoné au bureau de Maun au + 267 686 12 65 .
J’ai été en contact avec Seemong (très sympa).
Elle m’a confirmé qu’une augmentation des tarifs était à l’étude pour 2012 mais que rien n’était encore décidé.
Démarche :
Envoyez les vouchers de réservation confirmés et payé (au moins les acomptes) par fax à l’agence de Maun au + 267 686 12 64 avec un courrier expliquant que vous souhaitez payer les « park fees ».
Préciser les nombres
o d’adultes
o d’enfants
o de 4X4.
o De jours
o Les campsites.
o Vos coordonnées
(Pour moi : Kwalate Safari pour Ihaha et Kakanaxa et SKL pour Savuti, north gate et Kumaga, en tout 12 jours).
Seemong m’a envoyé (rapidement) une facture avec un formulaire de débit de carte de crédit.
J’ai renvoyé le formulaire dument rempli et signé.
J’ai payé les tarifs en vigueur (AD 120 pj/pp , ENF 60 pj/pp, 4X4 50 pj) soit les tarifs 2011 pour une résa pour aout 2012 ;
Voila. Si vous avez des résa en cours pour 2012, vous pouvez payer maintenant, ça marche.
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana / Zambie · 5 replies
Je suis en train d 'organiser un road trip en afrique australe et notamment l'itineraire et plus precisement les distances. J'ai le temps par contre j'ai du…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 8 replies
Bonne Année 2026! Nous préparons un voyage au Botswana. Merci d'avance pour vos avis sur le transfert de Maun à Kasane (ou dans l'autre sens) par la route…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 7 replies
Je commence tout juste à préparer notre voyage pour fin aout 2026 mais j'ai lu à plusieurs reprises que les réservation des camping étaient à faire très en…
Le départ: David toujours à l’heure pour nous conduire à l’aeroport. Au comptoir, on me signale que mon passeport est abîmé et qu’elle doit se renseigner si je…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 2 replies
Je rentre de ma première expédition en véhicule + tente trajet Nord Namibie jusqu'au Delta de l'Okavango (18 jours). En bref: - La route qui relie Shakawe à…
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
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Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?