Southeast Asia · Cambodia

Hi there, we're looking for **self-sufficient hikes** (day trips and multi-day treks), mainly in **Northern Vietnam**, and possibly a bit in the central region.

+If you’ve got any in **Thailand** not too far from Bangkok or in **Cambodia** not too far from the country, that’d be great too!

We’d really appreciate your tips!

Thanks! 🙂

Does it seem feasible and reasonable to travel to Laos (or Cambodia) as early as January or February 2025? I don’t have any precise information about the damage these countries have suffered.

hi there since the forum is back up, let’s try to gather some updated info. first off, arrival formalities are changing—starting January 1st, you’ll need to fill out an electronic form before arrival. This replaces the paperwork you used to fill out on the plane or at the airport (for air arrivals). Here’s the link: https://www.arrival.gov.kh/. for visas, the same options remain: e-visa, visa on arrival, or visa at the embassy. The standard price is $30 on arrival, but at land borders, be prepared for a small "extra" for "cigarettes or coffee." don’t forget your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return. regarding airlines, prices are pretty high for carriers like Singapore, Qatar, Emirates, Vietnam Airlines, and Thai. EVA Air is a great Taiwanese airline with slightly lower fares, but ongoing pressure from mainland China and quasi-blockades could cause delays or issues—something to watch. there are cheaper Chinese airlines, but friends from China advise being cautious with connections. Worth double-checking. transport is evolving too—there’s now a highway from Phnom Penh to Kampot. Soraya, a well-known bus company, has disappeared. More highway projects are in the works. Buildings are popping up fast, just mentioning this for those who haven’t been to Cambodia in a while.

Hi there, I’ve flown with all three, and they’re all great. Nowadays, for the same flight, the layover duration can vary depending on the airline. Have a great trip! Bernard

Hi there,

This will be my first trip to Thailand, which will be the first stop on my Asian journey. This time, I’d like to leave with a one-way ticket so I can return to France from the last country I visit.

First and foremost, I’d like to confirm whether it’s possible to get a VOA (Visa on Arrival) when I land in Thailand without any prior steps? Is proof of onward travel (like a return ticket) required to get this visa?

If so, does it have to be a round-trip ticket from the country I’m arriving from, or can I use a flight or train ticket from Thailand to a neighboring country as proof of exit?

For Cambodia and Vietnam, is it also possible to get a VOA on the spot?

I’d also love any tips or important info you think might be useful about Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam—my planned destinations—especially regarding accommodation, transportation, points of interest, and, of course, any personal advice or experiences you’d like to share!

Thanks so much to everyone, and I wish you all an amazing 2025 filled with health, travel, and discoveries! !

Hi there, I’m flying to Phnom Penh on December 22, 2019. It’s a one-way ticket with no return. Will I run into any issues at customs or check-in? I have no intention of settling in the country—I just haven’t decided where to go next yet. Is it a good idea to show proof of a bus or train ticket to a neighboring country, like Vietnam? Has anyone else been in this situation? Thanks

Hi everyone, Following a last-minute cancellation from our guide due to illness, I’m looking for a guide—preferably French-speaking—for the day of February 5th in Phnom Penh. We’re a group of 10 adults. Thanks, Alain.

Hi, I’m writing because I’ve seen conflicting info online. Does anyone know if I need an ID photo to enter Thailand from Cambodia at the Psar Pruhm / Ban Pakard border crossing? I have a French passport and will be staying in Thailand for 8 days. Thanks so much for your help.

Hi, is it possible to get to Ko Kut from Kaoh Kong or Khlong Yai without going back up to Trat and transiting via Ko Chang? Thanks for your replies

Hi everyone, I’m heading to Cambodia at the end of the year. I’ll be coming back via Thailand. I’d love to know if there’s a boat from Cambodia to Koh Kut Island. If you’ve done this trip, thanks in advance for shedding some light on it!

Hi,

I applied for an e-visa on January 8th and still haven’t received a response as of January 17th, even though the advertised processing time is three days. Anyone else experiencing these unusual delays? Can we file a complaint? Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards.

Hi there, a regular reader of the forum for planning my past trips—I’m now reaching out to ask for your thoughts on a 12-day itinerary in Cambodia, as so much there appeals to me... Thanks for your tips and feedback!! Day 1: arrival in PP Day 2: PP Day 3: PP to Kampot (bus) Day 4: Kampot to Kep (scooter) Day 5: Kampot to Koh Rong via Sihanoukville Day 6: Koh Rong Day 7: Koh Rong Day 8: Koh Rong to Sihanoukville to Siem Reap (flight) Day 9: Siem Reap Day 10: Siem Reap Day 11: Siem Reap Day 12: departure from Siem Reap

I was thinking of exploring Tonlé Sap Lake to visit the floating villages during our 3 days in Siem Reap, but I’m also considering squeezing in a stay in Battambang since it seems worth visiting... Is the lake level high enough in February to make it worthwhile?

Thanks for your input!

Hi, we're heading to Cambodia. We have the e-arrival visa, which was introduced last September and needs to be done only 7 days before departure. I'd like to know if we can complete the declaration online instead of on the phone, which would require printing the declaration. Thanks for your reply. Best regards

Hello everyone, My wife Fanny and I, along with our three kids (ages 10, 12, and 14), are planning a two-week trip to Asia during the February break. This would be our first big family trip, and we’re looking to mix discovery, a change of scenery, some relaxation, and cultural immersion. We want to avoid overly organized tours or over-touristed destinations. Over 20 years ago, Fanny and I used to travel as a couple with backpacks, especially in India and Mongolia, but things have surely changed a lot since then. Now, we’re torn between: • Thailand: for its diversity (beaches, temples, nature) and accessibility for a first family trip. • Laos-Cambodia combo: for a potentially more authentic immersion, but we’re wondering if it’s well-suited for kids. - Sri Lanka: it seems amazing and family-friendly? Is the political situation stable enough? We have a few questions:

Which destination would you recommend for this kind of family setup? What itineraries might work for two weeks without feeling too rushed?

Logistics-wise: can we travel with a round-trip flight ticket, book a few basic hotels, and improvise the rest once we’re there? Or do we need to plan everything in advance (transport, accommodations, activities) for this time of year?

Thanks in advance for your valuable tips! Mathieu

Idea for a 15-day itinerary in Cambodia... - 3 nights in Phnom Penh, arriving at 6:30 PM. (2 days to explore the city). - 2 nights in Battambang - 4 or 5 nights in Siem Reap (2 days for Angkor, 1 day for Kulen, 1 day for Tonlé Sap Lake) - 2 nights in Kampot - 2 nights on Koh Rong. What do you think? Thanks... Alain.

Hi there,

1) I’d love to get some recent info on crossing this border. We’ll be entering Cambodia through Siem Reap Airport with an e-visa (electronic visa), and I’d like to know if we’ll be able to leave Cambodia through this border crossing without any issues using this type of visa.

2) I’m also looking for info (company names and schedules) on public transport options to Battambang/Pailin and then to Ben Pakkad/Chantaburi. Or, since there’ll be six of us (5 adults and 1 young child), would it be better to go for a taxi instead? If so, I’d appreciate recommendations for reliable taxi companies. Price isn’t a deal-breaker for the taxi option.

Thanks in advance!

Hi there,

We’re supposed to fly in four days—my partner, our two kids, and me—for a one-month trip to Cambodia. While applying for an e-visa, we just realized that both our passports won’t be valid for 6 months after our stay ends, which is a key requirement for getting a Cambodian visa. I don’t know how, but we totally missed this info!! Our tickets aren’t refundable, and we’ve booked several non-refundable hotels there too...

Has anyone been in this situation or have any ideas or solutions?

Thanks so much in advance!!!!

SIEM REAP You can now rent scooters just about everywhere in Siem Reap, but at rip-off prices—$15–18 a day instead of $5–10 like everywhere else in Indochina. The best options are tuk-tuks or, even better, electric bikes ($12, but with a 50 km range, so they won’t let you go to Banteay Srei or the River of a Thousand Lingas in the Kulen Massif, which are too far). **WARNING:** Wear a helmet, or they *will* catch you. Scooters are banned from going from SR to the stunning temple of Koh Ker in the northeast and continuing to Battambang; no idea why!

My favorite little hotel in Siem Reap? The Neth Socheata, tucked in an alley off Thnou St near the market—lovely rooms, and the owner speaks great English. Then there’s the Ivy Guesthouse with its little garden, but it’s “always full,” according to the owner. For something upscale but still affordable, a fantastic spot is the Pavillon Indochine, tucked away on a quiet side street on the way to the airport—elegant, with incredible attention to decor, a terrace restaurant, garden, pool, etc. Everything you’d want for $70 including breakfast. I also spotted a hostel for backpackers, the Angkor Thom Hostel, with small 6-bed dorms for $4 with a fan or $6 with AC (18 Wat Bo St).

Food-wise, it’s all amazing! Pub Street has turned into a noise nightmare, with speakers blasting what’s supposed to be music but is just *boom, boom, boom, boom, boom*—run away, even though the pizzas at the Italian place Il Forno are really good. The famous and excellent Tigre de Papier has changed its name to Paper Tiger and is still just as good (lunch only, though, because across the street there’s a huge bar blasting *boom boom boom*, so you won’t be able to hear each other during dinner). On the other hand, the Italian-Cambodian El Toro on Pub Street is perfect, with fantastic pizzas and divine lasagna (go to the first-floor dining room—there’s a big bar across the street blasting *boom boom boom*, but at least you can still talk). Due to the lack of customers during COVID, all the French restaurants—Barrio (three times alas!), Les Deux Sœurs, Le Bel Air, and Le Mozart—have closed. The only one left is L’Olivier, which is pricey. I also discovered a great Moroccan restaurant (though run by a Sudanese man and his French wife), Le Tajine, on Strung Thmei St, 09 68 89 78 27. **WARNING:** For tagines and couscous, you need to order at least in the morning; wine and beer are fine. To get there, turn at the corner of the Cineplex behind the big market at the start of Sivatha Boulevard.

I finally went to the Khmer dance show. Beautiful dancers and dances, but **EAT BEFORE OR AFTER**—the meal is so awful that most Westerners leave it on their plates.

THE ANGKOR TEMPLES Use the excellent *Routard Cambodia* guide. Just a few tips: - Start with the pre-Angkorian Roluos group, 15 km before Siem Reap on the road to PP—it’s the “ancestor” of the temples.

- To avoid the big crowds at Angkor Wat, Bayon, and Ta Prohm, go between noon and 2 PM when everyone’s having lunch. - Speaking of lunch, the crowds flock to the hundred or so mediocre food stalls on the left side of Angkor Wat. Instead, head to Angkor Thom after the stunning Pre Rup temples, all the way to the small Sras Srang basin. Along the basin, there are several restaurants with terraces offering first-floor views of the water, and no crowds. Afterward, cross to the other side of the basin—you’ll end up in the countryside with charming villages where locals seem to live as they did during the temples’ golden age (at its peak, the population was estimated at 600,000–800,000, making it the largest city in the world. The theory for the abandonment is water shortages caused by overpopulation).

- I climbed Phnom Bakheng for the famous sunset, but the crowd was so ridiculous that instead of seeing the temple at sunset, you just see the heads and shoulders around you.

- There are tons of small temples that most people skip, and they’re missing out. My favorites: Thommanon, Neak Pean, Ta Som, and especially Pre Rup, an amazing brick complex with 14 towers.

**Big disappointment:** You can no longer climb to the first floor of Bayon, where you used to stand magically among the giant head statues. So, admire the beautiful bas-reliefs on the outside, but there’s no point going inside—you’ll just see a dark, square corridor with nothing interesting.

ANGKOR FURTHER AFIELD The wonderful Banteay Srei temple. A gem! I couldn’t find the bas-relief stolen by Malraux in the 1920s (fun fact: what he was doing in Indochina—stealing a bas-relief to sell for a fortune in France to cover his massive gambling debts on the stock market, where he ruined his very wealthy American wife—was an open secret. But the French authorities in Saigon, who hated him for his leftist views, decided to let him do it and catch him red-handed, which worked perfectly. He avoided jail only because all the leftist intellectuals in Saint-Germain, Sartre, Beauvoir, and co. cried scandal—though the real scandal was the looting).

30 km of excellent paved road further north, a great spot: the Kulen Massif and the River of a Thousand Lingas (at one point, you’ll come to a T-junction—turn left). Along the road at the foot of the massif, on your right, there’s a great restaurant, Bourey Sovann (where the food is excellent). The trail to the river starts just before it on the left. **Warning:** There are two sites for the River of a Thousand Lingas. One is accessible via a private road, so there’s a $20 toll, and you need to arrive before 11 AM because the road is narrow and traffic flows downhill after that. You’ll end up in a site full of shops, snack stalls, and two good restaurants, including one by a beautiful waterfall. However, the thousand lingas aren’t as spectacular there.

Banteay Srei + the River of a Thousand Lingas makes for a fantastic day. **WARNING:** You used to be able to go to the river and waterfall by scooter or tuk-tuk, but it’s now forbidden. So **go by taxi**—otherwise, you’ll be hiking 12 km round trip up a steep trail.

If you leave Siem Reap early, you can even add Beng Mealea temple on the way back, making a triangular route: SR-BS-Khulen-BM-SR (or the reverse).

If you have time, visit Banteay Samré temple, 10 km west of the Angkor Thom complex. A lovely site with very few visitors.

I’ve never been to the famous Preah Khan on a hill overlooking Thailand. There’s a big dispute between the two countries—the Thais insist the temple belongs to them because the entrance is in their country. There have been serious clashes in the recent past, and landmines are still abundant off the marked paths. They even claim the entire Siem Reap province is theirs and should be returned, arguing it was Thai in the past. It takes two days (6–7 hours each way), with an overnight stay in the nearby village (small hotels and one luxury option with a garden and pool, but it’s expensive).

TONLE SAP People talk about “floating villages,” but that’s a big mistake—these are actually villages of astonishing stilt houses, 4 meters high or more, due to the lake’s major floods. The most famous is Chong Khneas, which I skipped because it’s packed with tourists. Instead, I really liked Kampong Phluk, which is much quieter. To get there, continue on the road past the Roluos group until you reach a parking lot with pirogues lined up. They’ll take you down the river, stop at this amazing village for a walk, and then take you to the Tonle Sap, a true inland sea. At one point, you’ll pass through a flooded forest that you can explore by small boat. At the junction of the river and the Tonle Sap, and on the lake itself, there are floating restaurants where the food is great. Note that in the dry season, you can reach the village by scooter.

BACK TO PHNOM PENH AND ON TO SOUTHERN VIETNAM Since I’d planned at least 15 days in the Mekong Delta between Chau Doc and Saigon, I skipped Battambang, etc. With no desire to endure the dusty road from SR to PP again, I simply loaded my bike onto a bus with the great company Rith Monty (book at their office in SR on the small square at the start of Sivatha Boulevard—$10 for the bike and $6 for me), also known as Paramount. Their buses stop on 136 St right in the middle of PP. I’ll also mention the excellent Giant Ibis, with big modern buses that always leave on time—unlike the others.

I spent the night in PP, and the next morning took the fast boat from PP to Chau Doc with Hang Chau Tourist (buying the ticket the day before is recommended—$25—either at your hotel or the port, and they’ll pick you up at your hotel by tuk-tuk to take you to the port). Departure from PP at noon, arrival in Chau Doc around 4 PM. The boat is great—comfortable and fast. A crew member takes your passports for Cambodian exit formalities, and you handle Vietnamese immigration yourself—it all takes 15–20 minutes. The route isn’t on the Mekong but on the Bassac River to the border, then a wide north-south canal to Chau Doc (the arrival is really nice). In the Chau Doc-PP direction, the boat leaves Chau Doc at 7:30 AM.

Hello, My wife and I are planning a 15-day trip to Cambodia. Could you share some itinerary ideas with us? Thanks

Hello fellow travelers!!!! I want to warn as many people as possible about what happened to me in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, during my trip across Southeast Asia. I know there are already several posts on this forum about this topic, but I think one more won’t hurt—to help stop the activities of this gang of Filipinos operating across Asia. I was extorted out of $4000 after being lured into an underground Black Jack game. They invite you to their place for some innocent reason, drug you, make you play, and then rob you. To my great regret, this bad experience has happened to several people, but I realized it too late. What happened to me is as much my fault as theirs: my naivety and their dishonesty. So, be careful when you travel—don’t trust people too quickly. I hope this post helps. Cambodia remains a magnificent country for me, and most of the people are wonderful. Big up!!!!! Travel safe, Julien

A fascinating documentary about a Khmer treasure discovered in the Savannakhet region. The documentary places this discovery within the cultural environment of the Khmer era, from Wat Phu (Champassak - Laos) to Angkor (Cambodia). https://www.arte.tv/fr/videos/116856-000-A/laos-le-tresor-oublie-de-la-civilisation-khmere/