Bonjour,
Je serais en Birmanie en decembre, j aimerais connaitre vos coups de coeur du pays.
Juste 2 ou 3 noms (autres que Yangon-Inle-Mandalay-Bagan-Ngapali), des endroits insolites et hors des sentiers battus qui vous ont particulièrement marqué.
Que ce soit à l intérieur du pays ou sur la côte... ou même une île paradisiaque... ? 😇
Je ne me suis pas vraiment écartée du circuit classique qu'est en effet Rangoon-Mandalay-Pagan-Lac Inle.
Pour moi toute la Birmanie est un coup de coeur, c'est même souvent insolite !
Même dans les endroits touristiques, on se sent au bout du monde, parfois loin de toute civilisation.
C'est vraiment une atmosphère unique.
En 1 mois, (28 jours plus exactement !), il y a tellement de choses à voir en restant dans le circuit classique, qu'il est difficile je crois de sortir des sentiers battus. Et puis les trajets sont longs et on perd beaucoup de temps...
J'ai particulièrement aimé la petite ville de PYIN U LWIN, accessible en pick up depuis Mandalay.
C'est une ambiance très spéciale, qui ne ressemble pas trop au reste de la Birmanie. C'est en altitude, c'était le refuge des britanniques qui recherchaient des températures plus fraiches pendant la saison chaude.
Il y a de nombreux indiens, Népalais, Pakistannais. Le marché est intéressant, les balades en ville se font en de jolis petits fiacres. Sinon, rien à faire de particulier, 2 nuits suffisent.
Kengtung sinon doit être une région insolite, peu visitée par les touristes, mais faut y aller...
Question île paradisiaque, ce n'est pas vraiment l'endroit !
(Photos des fiacres à Pyin U Lwin)
www.asimania.com
La question ne serait elle pas plutot : quelle est la liberté de circulation en Birmanie ? Sortir des sentiers battus est ce un droit (pour les touristes, bien sur )?
Et si la réponse est : ce n'est pas possible ( ce que je crois, certainement parce que je suis désinformé), alors quelle est la différence entre le voyage solitaire et celui des TO dans le cadre d'un parcours fléché, balisé, encadré de fait par le pouvoir dictatorial ?
J'ai adore MINGU, de l'autre cote de l'Irriwady par rapport a Mandalay. Mis a part la pyramide et la + grosse cloche en bronze du monde (impressionant!), il y a une atmosphere tres speciale. J'ai bien regrette d'en partir. Je vs signale qu'on peut dormir dans le monastere se trouvant en face de la pyramide. Ca doit etre super de passer 2-3 j dans cet endroit!
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Au sud de Moulmein, il y a un Bouddha couché en construction d'environ 180 mètres de long et de plusieurs dizaines de mètres de haut.
L'intérieur est composé d'une multitude de salles dans lesquelles il y a des reproductions de scènes religieuses.
Les personnages et les décors sont en plâtre, c'est surprenant de réalisme naïf. Même si on est lassé de voir des centaines de Bouddhas et de stuppas, cette construction étonne et fascine.
Cette visite peut se faire dans le cadre d'un voyage jusqu'à la plage de Tse Tse. Sur le chemin, il y a d'autres choses à voir.
En face de Moulmein, l'île de l'Ogre est à voir, pour l'atmosphère assez particulière de ses villages et paysages.
Ce séjour peut se faire en prolongation d'un voyage au Rocher d'Or.
Le train moulmein - Yangon traverse de jolis coins.
Le trajet en bateau de Moulmein à Pha An est assez sympa.
Les plages et villages de pêcheurs situées au sud de Ngwe Saung donnent l'occasion de faire une très agréable ballade.
Idem pour les plages situées au nord de Chaung Tha.
Au nord de Nyang U, il y a un joli temple. Y aller par bateau plutôt qu'en en calèche. 5 mn de bateau de la jetty.
Ce temple est très différent des autres temples. Un peu à l'écart se trouve un monastère. Il n'y a qu'un moine qui vit dans un petit capharnaüm.
Comme Larsay, j'ai beaucoup aimé MINGUN, on prend un bateau depuis Mandalay le matin vers 9 heures, cela permet déjà de voir un peu qu'elle est l'ambiance sur le fleuve Irrawaddy.
Puis on accoste dans un petit village sans voitures, où l'on circule à pied et en char à boeuf.
Il y a effectivement la cloche la plus grosse du monde, aussi un édifice monumental en pierres construit par un ancien roi et non terminé. Il y a aussi un temple sur plusieurs niveaux, tout blanc, qui ressemble à un gros gateau chantilly...
L'ambiance est sympa, malheureusement il y a beaucoup de touristes...(dont on fait partie bien sûr!)
Comme dit Larsay, cela doit être agréable de passer une nuit, pas d'hôtels pour le moment, mais il y a effectivement un monastère ou hospice où l'on peut peut-être passer la nuit. ( Il me semblait pourtant que c'était un hospice pour les personnes agées.)
Normalement, les touristes reprennent tous le bateau vers 1 heure de l'après midi.
Comme le pense Rogerbartas, il est difficile de s'écarter des sentiers pour touristes, bien sûr la région est contrôlée et il y a des "chek point" partout....
En dehors du circuit classique et de quelques excursions, difficile de s'éloigner. Mais il y a peu de touristes tout de même et ce n'est pas un voyage ambiance "tour opérateur"...
(Photo de la pagode inachevée et photo du temple tout blanc)
www.asimania.com
Bonsoir David .
Je ne suis jamais sortie des sentiers battus, mais je rejoins les autres Amoureux de la Birmanie, pour te confirmer que tu ne seras pas confronté au tourisme de masse !! Loin de là !!
Le circuit 'classique ' te semble sans doute trop couru, mais les endroits et les gens y sont magnifiques ...
J'avais adoré le Rocher d'Or quand les pélerins allument une quantité de bougies et prient, au coucher du soleil.... C'est magique, hors du temps et empreint d'une ferveur quasi inégalée .. Tu pourras découvrir la même ferveur dans plein d'autres temples et en particulier à Schwedagon ...
C'est justement mon point: les touristes rentrent a 13h. Je suis sur que, sans coucher au monastere-et je comfirme qu'on peut car j'ai demande- on peut negicier un bateau pour retourner en fin d'apres-midi pour le prix d'une tasse de cafe a Paris
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
Il n'y a pas de touriste que ne hante le désir de "sortir des sentiers battus". Il veut faire quelquechose que les autres n'ont jamais fait. Le besoin d'être unique, d'une façon ou d'une autre, augmente au fur et à mesure de la standardisation. Aldous Huxley - Le monde en passant (1926)
Pour un premier voyage de 1 mois, je suppose, contente-toi du classique Rangoon-Bagan-Mandalay-Inle-Bago
Pyay pour ses stupas aux formes étranges
Moulmein pour le plus grand Bouddha couché au monde et Npa' An avec le temple aux Bouddhas avec python - vivant !!
Bago pour ce temple ou se déroule chaque jour des cérémonies en hommage aux nats
Salay au sud de Bagan
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
Eh oui, on suit bêtement le troupeau, de peur de se trouver dans une galère, par exemple de ne pas trouver un endroit pour dormir .
Quel dommage, je suis bien d'accord, on est un peu idiots nous les touristes...
Tu as raison, ça doit être vraiment cool de rester plus longtemps à Mingun ! Et je ne vois effectivement pas pourquoi on ne pourrait pas trouver un autre bateau pour rentrer.
Remarques si tout le monde se passe le mot pour rester là bas, il va falloir qu'ils construisent un hôtel, et ce ne sera plus si cool...
(Je rajoute 2 photos de Mingun, j'adore ce temple qui me fait penser à un gateau chantilly...)
alors quelle est la différence entre le voyage solitaire et celui des TO dans le cadre d'un parcours fléché, balisé, encadré de fait par le pouvoir dictatorial ?
LA différence, qui à mon sens n'est pas négligeable, est que les TO sont beaucoup plus taxés par le "gouvernement" que les voyageurs indépendants.
De plus, l'argent des touristes dépensé par l'intermédiaires des TO va toujours dans les même poches. Pas celui des "solitaires" qui est dispatché dans les p'tits buisness indépendants et non gouvernementaux.
Voilà mon avis, qui je le reconnais, a été grandement influencé par les conversations que j'ai eu avec des birmans (commerçants, hoteliers, etc...), au sujet des TO.
Je ne suis pas du tout d'accord. La majorite des touristes sont des moutons qui ne veulent surtout pas s'aventurer hors de ces fameux sentiers battus qui n'en sont d'ailleurs nulle part (dans le Nord Vietnam, Ba Be, personne, Dong Van, moins que personne; on nous casse les pieds avec Sapa et Along "trop touristique"; Halong, y'a 3000 iles, il suffit de ne pas aller dans celle ou tout le monde va et, a Sapa, tout le monde suit en troupeau la riviere; tu vas dans l'autre sens, a droite, u gauche, et y'a plus personne). De plus, faire des recherches pour en sortir, c'est fatiguant, hein? c'est plus facile de refiler le bebe a un TO. Sans compter toutes les idees fausses, comme le paludisme au Vietnam (faut vraiment aller le chercher!) ou les legumes frais locaux a ne pas manger (c'est marrant, j'en mange tous les jours, et je suis en pleine forme), et la bouteille d'eau en permanence comme s'ils etaient au Sahara. Remarque, moi, ca m'arrange, ils ne viennent pas m'emm... la ou je vais
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
l'argent des touristes dépensé par l'intermédiaires des TO va toujours dans les même poches. Pas celui des "solitaires" qui est dispatché dans les p'tits buisness indépendants et non gouvernementaux.
N'exagère pas Poildeyack ...tu me ferais croire que c'est du tourisme humanitaire !
Nous les touristes, on va aider les Birmans...Quelle farce, arrétez cette comédie !
Allez en Birmanie, si ca vous chante...mais de là a accomplir un devoir moral ou exprimer une opposition à la junte ...il y a de la marge !
Nous les touristes, on va aider les Birmans...Quelle farce, arrétez cette comédie !
Allez en Birmanie, si ca vous chante...mais de là a accomplir un devoir moral ou exprimer une opposition à la junte ...il y a de la marge !
+ 1
A +
321
200 jours à pied,
seul, sans guide,
aux confins du Laos : CLIC
Ne t'emballe pas cher ami !!! Tu poses une question sur la différence de voyager en TO et en indépendant, je te donne simplement mon opinion.
J'ai bien conscience que ce n'est pas du "tourisme humanitaire", un devoir moral ou une façon de s'opposer à la junte. J'ai juste le sentiment que la population en profite plus, that's all... Peut-être me trompe-je ???
Maintenant je reconnais ne pas être un grand fan des TO, et encore moins pour la Birmanie.
bonjour Roger, c'est nicole, j'espère que tu vas bien! Tu connais mon attachement au cambodge et à l'asie en générale. Après beaucoup de questionnement j'ai décidé de partir en Birmanie. Je suis donc partie l'année dernière en solo. J'ai beaucoup voyagé dans les bus avec les birmans et j'ai beaucoup discuté avec eux. Ce qui revient c'est"ne nous laissez pas !" évidemment on ne changera rien à la situation politique, mais ne pas les écouter ou ne pas les entendre serait une catastrophe. C'est un peuple très attachant, j'ai eu des contacts extraordinaires, des moments de sympathie inoubliables. Hélas, je n'oublie pas tous ces endroits touristiques désertés où les petits artisans étaient "en désespérance", je me suis retrouvée dans des endroits où j'étais la seule touriste ! Alors là c'est quoi la solution pour tous ces gens qui vivent du tourisme ? Car il y en a ? Bagan par exemple ne vit que de ça.
et quand tu leur demandes si on doit boycotter (car j'ai posé la question) la réponse est non. J'ai pris ma responsabilité d'aller dans ce pays et d'y retourner, car je suis tombée amoureuse des birmans.Ils sont dans le dialogue, ils ont envie d'échanger alors surtout écoutez ce qu'ils ont à dire. Je corresponds par internet avec un jeune birman de Mandalay qui apprends le français et je compte bien le revoir. Et je n'ai pas envie qu'on me donne mauvaise conscience parce que je vais en Birmanie, la mauvaise conscience serait de ne pas les entendre ! Je voulais réagir pour les Birmans qui ne méritent pas qu'on les oublie et qu'il faut garder dans notre coeur.
amitiés
on ne voit bien qu'avec les yeux du coeur - Saint Exupéry
J'ai un couple d'amis Vfiste actuellement en Birmanie et ils conservent, bien entendu mon respect et mon amitié, je pense simplement qu'il faut y aller consciemment, je dis d'ailleurs pareil pour le Cambodge.
C'est pour celà que de temps en temps je tire une salve...afin de ne pas banaliser ce qui ne doit pas l'être.
Des témoignages comme le tien me font plaisir... Cordialement!
Bonjour, Je voulais remercier "Nicole" pour son message !Nous y sommes allés au mois de mars et je suis revenue avec les mêmes sensations et sentiments que vous . Je corresponds aussi avec quelqu'un habitant Yangon qui me dit le désarroi des chauffeurs-guide par manque de touristes. Nous espèrons pouvoir y retourner dans quelques mois ....
Je le transmet à Aldous Huxley - qui est l'auteur de mon préambule - mais je pense qu'il n'est plus en état de le lire 😎 "Remarque, moi, ca m'arrange, ils ne viennent pas m'emm... la ou je vais"
Alors sois heureux et moi aussi
Encore merci pour les bonnes infos que tu distilles sur ce forum; tu as au moins un lecteur 😎
"Nous ne sommes plus une communauté d'être humains qui se parlent mais un conglomérat de grappes de consommateurs en niches, séparés les uns des autres par des obsessions diverses et innombrables. Nous sommes de l'ère de la désintégration." Marc Moulin (1942-2008) in Humoeurs
Je suis contente moi aussi de voir que nous pensons la même chose.
Je crois que ceux qui décident d'aller en Birmanie, tout en sachant parfaitement ce qui s'y passe, ne peuvent qu'être d'accord sur une chose : Ce pays est terriblement attachant pour ses habitants et a besoin d'aide.
Les Birmans ont envie de communiquer, ont besoin que l'on témoigne.
Même si nous ne pouvons pas grand chose, voyager "en routard" permet à quelques familles d'avoir de petits revenus, qui ne vont pas dans les poches de l'état....
Bien sûr il faut boycotter les organismes d'état le plus possible, mais boycotter le pays ne sert qu'à l'isoler encore plus et ne fait pas avancer les choses.
Un tout petit exemple : souvent dans les guest house, le propriétaire vous proposera de vous emmener en voiture jusqu'au bus, ou à l'aéroport, plutôt que de prendre un taxi. C'est un peu d'argent gagné pour la famille. On peut donner quelques pourboires, acheter aux artisans, etc...
Ce n'est pas grand chose mais c'est important pour eux. Et même les soutenir moralement, car il n'y a pas que l'argent.
Pour tous ceux qui aiment ce pays et veulent en savoir plus, je signale au passage que le dernier numéro de "GRANDS REPORTAGES" ( Novembre), est sur la Birmanie.
La préface est intéressante et explique pourquoi il faut aller en Birmanie, et ce qu'il en est de la situation du pouvoir.
Merci pour ton post et pour ta réaction.
www.asimania.com
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Hello,
After 1 night in Khao Sok, I’d like to find a 2 Days 1 Night package on the lake.
After reading a lot, I decided to "break the bank" and treat ourselves to a private tour—mainly to avoid the crowds.
But after contacting several operators, they offer "private tours" that are very expensive (around 700 €), yet in the details, the boats can only leave from the pier at 10 AM like everyone else. (I was hoping to leave much earlier.) The morning program is the same for everyone too (private or not). They drop us off at noon at our floating hotel (I’d chosen Phupha Waree). Free afternoon (swimming or kayaking in front of the hotel). We head back by boat for a 1-hour sunset ride. And the next morning, we leave the hotel at 8 AM to be at the pier by 9:30 AM at the latest—end of the trip.
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Hi,
I wanted to get some info about the cable car and the bridge—I see lots of different options...
How much time should we allow for these two activities? If we arrive around 4 PM, will we have enough time to visit without rushing?
Thanks
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Hi,
On September 1st, we're heading to Kalimantan for six weeks, probably from Pontianak to the Derawan Islands.
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Thanks in advance!
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Hi dear community,
I'm planning to visit Cambodia this winter, right after Christmas, for my first solo trip and my first trip to Asia. For two weeks (yes, I know it's short, but I really can't do more...). I have two main desires: Siem Reap and the countryside, the villages, the Mekong...
What do you think of this itinerary? Arrival in Siem Reap, departure from Phnom Penh.
SR: 5 days (1 day for arrival, 3 for the temples, 1 for the lake and its villages)
Kratie (stop on the way to Mondolkiri): 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days there)
Mondolkiri/Sen Monorom: 4 days (1 day of travel, 1 day there, 2 days of treks)
PP: 3 days (1 day of travel, 2 days of sightseeing)
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I’m planning a family trip (my wife and I, both 47, and our two sons, aged 5 and 12) to Malaysia for the last week of June and the first two weeks of July 2027.
We used to love road trips as a couple, then as a trio, but since our second child arrived, we’ve taken a break with "camping village" style trips.
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Hello,
We’re a family of four with two teens aged 16 and 18. We’re heading to Thailand this summer. We’ll arrive in Bangkok and plan to take a flight to Luang Prabang.
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Hello everyone,
Not long ago, I used to travel as a couple, but my husband has since passed away, and I’ve decided to set off again. The trip I took to Cambodia in January 2025 did me a world of good.
I’m now considering Thailand, a destination we never included in our plans because even 15 years ago, people said it was too touristy. Still, I’m thinking about the itinerary below, but I don’t feel up to arranging buses, trains, or guides on my own while I’m there. I’m looking for one or more drivers and have been in touch with an agency, but their offers are just copy-paste group tours that I don’t want.
So, if you have any contacts, experiences, or advice, I’d be so grateful if you’d share them with me. Here’s my rough plan:
Arrival in Bangkok
Ayutthaya (2 nights)
Kanchanaburi (2 or 3 nights)
Sangkhlaburi/Sai Yok (3 nights)
Sukhothai (2 nights)
Lampang (I’ve planned 3 nights, but that might be a bit much—it depends on what time I arrive in the city)
Chiang Mai
Chiang Dao
Pai
Chiang Rai
I was thinking about the Mae Hong Son loop—thoughts?
What do you think about staying overnight at the Golden Triangle?
When I look online, of course, I can find agencies that organize tours to national parks, etc.
I’m retired but in great physical shape. I’d rather go hiking than sit in hot springs with crowds of tourists who’ve all arranged meet-ups. I don’t want to spend a day at an elephant camp, and I don’t want to visit Karen villages.
I’d love to hear your advice.
Thank you all,
Hi everyone,
Could you share your thoughts on my 3-week itinerary?
We’re a small group (family + friends) of 12 people, planning to leave around January 21, 2027.
Here’s my itinerary:
3 nights in Bangkok
4 nights in Chiang Mai
3 nights on Koh Samui
3 nights on Koh Phangan
4 nights in Krabi
4 nights in Phuket
I’m also open to any great tips you might have...
Thanks, everyone! Alain.
Hi,
From Malacca to get to Jerantut, is it better to go back to KL and take a bus from there, or take a bus to Tampin and then a train? Any feedback on the "Jungle Train"? (duration, price, comfort, etc.). Thanks
Hi there,
We’re planning a 3-week family trip next summer with our three kids, who’ll be 8, 8, and 7 years old.
After some research, we’re leaning toward Malaysia to combine nature/forests and paradise beaches. The idea is to introduce our kids to the country’s culture, nature, and wildlife.
We want a great trip but without splurging on luxury options like high-end lodges and resorts. We’re looking for comfort with a touch of authenticity—basically, a good middle ground.
I’ve started putting together an itinerary and would love your expert advice and tips to help us build this amazing trip with our little ones.
Day 1: Departure from France
Day 2: Kuala Lumpur
Stay at a hotel near the airport or KL Sentral.
Just one night.
Day 3: Morning flight to Sandakan (Borneo).
Stay in Sepilok
Day 4: Sepilok:
* Orangutan Center
* Malayan Sun Bear Center
* Rainforest Discovery Centre
Day 5: Depart for Kinabatangan.
Boat safari in the late afternoon.
Day 6: Sunrise safari.
Jungle walk.
Evening safari.
Day 7: Final safari.
Return to Sandakan.
Flight to Kuala Lumpur, then to Kota Bharu (or overnight transit depending on schedules).
Day 8: Transfer to the port.
Boat to the Perhentian Islands.
Days 9 to 13: Perhentian Besar
5 full days.
* Snorkeling
* Hiking
* Turtle watching
* Wild beaches
* Relaxation
Day 14: Return to the mainland.
Bus or private car to Taman Negara.
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Flores and then Bali at the end of September.
We’ve already visited both but this time, once we’re in Labuan Bajo, we’d like to take a boat to the Komodo Islands to see the famous Komodo dragons.
I don’t want to sleep on the boat—just a day trip would be perfect.
Does anyone know a reliable and friendly provider to recommend?
Thanks in advance, and have a great summer!
Summer seems to be the best time weather-wise for Bali.
And since summer’s when we can take a long trip, let’s go for Bali... even though we know it’ll be *packed* with people!
So we’ll steer clear of the island’s south...
Our current plan (19 days on the ground, 7 stops):
- 4 Nights (3 days) in Ubud
2 days for rice terraces / activities (Tegallalang, Campuhan Ridge, Monkey Forest, Bird Park, coffee plantation, market (?), dance "pestacle," cooking class and/or spa)
1 day with a driver for the Temples (Pura Gunung Kawi, Tirta Empul Spring, Pura Mengening, Goa Gajah...)
- 2 nights in Sidemen (1 day for Pura Kehen + Batur Caldera + Pura Besakih and 1 day to relax in the rice terraces)
- 3 nights on Gili Meno (Rest and beaches) from Padangbai
- 2 nights in Amed (1 day from Padangbai with the Abang rice terrace and Tirta Gangga baths, and the next day a boat tour in Amed)
- 4 nights in Pemuteran (1 day for transfer and rest, 1 day to visit Kawah Ijen, and 2 days of snorkeling at Menjangan Island)
- 2 nights in Munduk (1 day with the Dayang rice terrace and the 3-waterfall hike, 1 day at Pura Ulun Danu Bratan)
- 2 nights in Jatiluwih (1 day in the rice terraces, and on the last day, we’ll stop by Pura Taman Ayun in Mengwi and Pura Tanah Lot before catching our red-eye flight).
Accommodations in homestays or hotels.
Transportation to be arranged on-site with the lodgings (?)
Boat to Gili Meno to book in advance (?)
Kawah Ijen excursion to plan ahead (?)—check with the homestay (?)
Thanks for your thoughts/comments to help us explore this destination...
After reading and researching, we're planning the following stops in Cambodia in January 2027:
- Phnom Penh
- Kampong Cham
- Kratie
- Siem Reap
- Battambang
- Kampot (round trip)
I'm wondering about the direction of these stops, which could also influence our international flights.
Either a round trip from Phnom Penh in the order above.
Or landing in Siem Reap with the following order:
This second option would save us the Battambang - PP - Kampot trip but means doing a round trip to Battambang from Siem Reap and placing the "highlight of the trip" (Angkor) at the beginning of our stay.
Hi there,
We’re planning to travel from Chiang Rai to Luang Prabang next November.
We’d like to take a slow boat from Chiang Khong—or rather from Huay Xai in Laos—with an overnight stop in Pakbeng.
Could you let us know if the boat still leaves Huay Xai in the late morning? If so, what time roughly, and what’s the price for the trip?
Thanks for your help!
Alod
We (3 adults: 68, 65, and 25 years old) are just back from a short trip to the Philippines, and I’d like to share a little summary of our journey. First of all, I’d like to thank everyone who contributes to this forum about this destination and answers the questions of those who aren’t familiar with it. I should also mention that my comments are personal and don’t reflect anyone else’s opinions. Since I don’t have any literary or photographic talent, I’ll stick to the facts and share a few details about the sights, hotels, and restaurants.
Preparations:
We chose this destination in December and quickly booked our flight tickets (540 € with Turkish Airlines) for a departure on February 16 and return on March 5, 2019. We then contacted two French-speaking tour operators based in Manila, asking them to put together an itinerary based on our wishes (places to visit, type of accommodation) and our budget. We wanted to see the rice terraces in northern Luzon, the hanging coffins in Sagada, before flying to the Visayas (Bohol, Siquijor, etc.), and the Taal Volcano, while limiting our nights in Manila as much as possible. In the end, we opted for Alize, whose itinerary and quote matched our request almost perfectly. Our exchanges helped us refine our circuit.
International flights:
The round-trip flights went smoothly. Turkish Airlines, while not at the level of Asian or Gulf airlines, does the job just fine.
Day 1:
We landed on time (6:15 PM) on Monday, February 16, at Terminal 3. We exchanged our euros (near the car rental counters), and I can confirm the exchange rate was very good. On the way to the St. Giles Hotel (decent and affordable for a transit night), we got our first glimpse of Manila’s dense traffic. The Makati district, where our hotel was located, offers a wide choice of restaurants, so we grabbed a quick bite to recover from the trip.
Day 2:
This day was dedicated to transferring to Banaue. Fortunately, we had a comfortable van and an excellent driver for this journey, which took all day (8 to 9 hours with stops). We got a taste of driving in the Philippines—and it’s terrifying. You wouldn’t want to drive on these roads. The first thing that struck us was the relatively good condition of the roads and the cleanliness (a change from other Southeast Asian countries). This impression lasted throughout our trip. Around 6 PM, we checked into our room at the Banaue Hotel (large, charm-free, but with a beautiful view of the rice terraces).
Day 3:
With the help of a local guide, we took a jeepney to Batad. And then—wow! The rice terraces form an amphitheater overlooking the small village. Under the sun, it’s simply spectacular and breathtaking! Even though we’re familiar with rice terraces (Sapa, Bali, Thailand, etc.), we were dazzled by so much beauty. We spent the day walking along the terrace walls. This place is timeless and fully deserves its UNESCO World Heritage status. However, we returned to the hotel exhausted (due to our ages and lack of exercise). We had dinner with our driver at the Las Vegas restaurant in the center of Banaue. The meal was decent, cheap, and the Filipino owner played the guitar to accompany our dinner.
Day 4:
Today, our driver took us to Sagada. The mountain road offered spectacular landscapes (about 1.5 to 2 hours). Along the way, we stopped in Bontoc to visit the small but interesting anthropological museum. It features old photos and various objects from the Ifugao tribes, as well as a reconstruction of primitive dwellings.
We then went on a short hike in Sagada with a very friendly local guide who explained the region’s funeral rites. The walk started at the communal cemetery before reaching “Echo Valley,” where we saw the first coffins hanging on the cliff. We continued to the “Underground River” and a small waterfall, ending our journey in the “Lumiang Cave” burial cave. All in all, this day was very interesting. On the way back, we made a few photo stops.
In the evening, on our driver’s recommendation, we ate at the “Bistro,” a French enclave in the center of Banaue (good pizza, roasted quail, homemade fries).
Day 5:
Today was a transfer day. To limit fatigue and nights in Manila, our tour operator arranged a flight from Clark to Tagbilaran (Bohol), saving us 2 to 3 hours of driving. But to catch our flight, we had to leave very early: 5:30 AM. Our kind driver dropped us off on time at the airport. To use it, we had to pay a 150 PHP tax per person. The Philippine Airlines flight (15 minutes) left early and was far from full. Upon arrival, we were taken to the Loboc River Hotel, on the banks of the river of the same name. A very charming lodge lost in a tropical garden. We stayed in a stilt cottage overlooking the river. We relaxed a bit in the lovely pool. This place is really great—the staff is charming, and the food is excellent for a reasonable price.
Day 6:
This day was dedicated to exploring Bohol. The program was classic, starting with the tarsier sanctuary. We saw a few specimens in a small garden, each pointed out by a staff member. It was both good and disappointing because the animals were in pseudo-freedom in a small enclosure. Then we went to the “Chocolate Hills” and climbed 240 steps to admire the panoramic view of the hills—but by 10 AM, it was crowded. On the way back, we stopped at the butterfly garden, which was uninteresting: tiny, with few butterflies. We consoled ourselves by photographing beautiful flowers. To please our teen, we stopped at the Loboc Eco Tourism Adventure Park and crossed the river lying down, suspended from a steel cable (300 PHP). Finally, we had the traditional lunch-cruise on the Loboc River. It was a factory-like experience, and the meal was unremarkable. The only good thing was the singer on each boat and the lush vegetation. Afterward, we visited colonial churches and the cathedral, remnants of the Spanish presence, before returning to the hotel for a well-deserved dip in the pool. Note that for those interested, there’s an arena near the hotel where cockfights are held every Sunday—something Filipinos are passionate (if not obsessed) about.
Day 8:
Very early departure for the port. We boarded a *banca* in search of dolphins. After about an hour of sailing, we were lucky enough to spot around a hundred dolphins. Our boat then headed to the small and charming island of Pamilacan. After a walk through the little village, we came across locals traditionally building a boat. They told us it takes about a month to finish their outrigger boat. Then we had to choose our snorkeling spot between the coral garden, the fish park, and the turtle enclosure. Note that a fee is charged for each spot: 150 PHP per place and per person. It felt a bit like we were being ripped off, especially since the spots weren’t amazing—we’d see much better on Apo for much less. We had lunch on the island at one of the many small eateries (350 PHP per person).
Days 9 and 10:
On our return, we were taken to the Bohol Sea Resort on Panglao Island, where we stayed for 2 nights. It’s a small, recent establishment in a quiet corner of the island. It’s relaxing—maybe a bit too much. It has a nice pool and access to Danao Beach, but the view is blocked by a flotilla of boats. We didn’t try their diving school. The meals were good. If we had to do it again, we’d skip this stop to spend more time in Negros.
Days 11 and 12:
We took a fast ferry (Ocean Jet) from Tagbilaran port to Dumaguete and were taken to the Thalatta Resort, about 20 km away near Zamboanguita. We stayed there for 2 nights. Let’s just say it was our favorite. It’s a small place facing Apo Island. The rooms are simple, and the pool, nestled in a magnificent tropical garden, is fantastic. The staff is friendly, and the meals are very good. The hotel has its own diving center (snorkeling gear provided) and its own boats. We booked the Apo Island excursion: 1,350 PHP per person, including lunch. It was incredible: magnificent corals, colorful fish, and turtles of all sizes. The crew was endlessly kind and didn’t hesitate to dive to guide us to the best spots. In short, a perfect day. This site is ranked among the top 5 diving spots in the Philippines.
Since we were lucky enough to be there on a Wednesday morning, we explored the surprising Malapay Market, a 10-minute walk from our hotel. You’ll find numerous stalls selling vegetables, fruits, live or dried fish, and handicrafts. Enclosures are set up for selling livestock (calves, zebu, pigs). There are also restaurants. We were lucky to see two pigs roasted traditionally on a spit. There are few Europeans, and the people are warm. A great moment.
We left this beautiful place with regret because we didn’t have time to visit the island or go swimming with whale sharks.
Days 12 to 15:
From Dumaguete port, we took a short crossing (1 hour with Ocean Jet) to Siquijor Island to reach the Coco Grove Beach Resort. A beautiful hotel nestled in a spacious tropical garden. Several restaurants and bars, 4 pools. Despite the size of the place, it remains intimate. You can snorkel (corals and fish) right in front of the beautiful beach. We stayed in a very pleasant duplex suite. For those interested, there’s a spa and a diving center. You can also take the Apo Island excursion (offered at 1,950 PHP).
We spent our days relaxing between the pool and the beach. In the evening, the sunsets over Negros and Apo were stunning.
We booked an island tour with a comfortable tricycle from the hotel (1,500 PHP). The circuit was classic and allowed us to go around the island. We discovered beaches, the famous 400-year-old ficus tree with its enormous roots, and its equally famous foot bath with its cleaning fish. Then we visited the St. Isidore Convent before heading to the Cambugahay waterfalls and their four pools. The setting is idyllic, and the water is surprisingly good—we had a lot of fun swimming. We had dinner at a restaurant overlooking the island, where you can see Apo, Cebu, and Negros. In the end, Siquijor turned out to be a real little tropical paradise.
Since the hotel restaurants were expensive, we dined at nearby establishments: Fuego (clean, good—excellent raw fish—and quiet), Chekesch (louder), and the very pleasant Baha Bar, which brews its own beer and offers more refined cuisine.
Days 15 to 16:
We left at dawn to return to Dumaguete and its airport by ferry. We had breakfast at the Coco Grande Hotel, an annex of the previous one. The Philippine Airlines flight went smoothly. A driver took us to the town of Taal. We stayed at Paradores Del Castillo, right in the heart of the old town. It’s a charming old house with only 6 rooms. The various rooms are decorated with antiques—a real little museum. The garden is pleasant and opens onto the town.
It’s an old early 19th-century house converted into a hotel, beautifully arranged with 6 rooms in the heart of the city. The restaurant in the garden is very pleasant and offers a panoramic view.
We visited an old Spanish house before heading to the beautiful Basilica of St. Martin of Tours, one of the most beautiful religious buildings in the Philippines. A mass was in progress, allowing us to gauge the Filipinos’ fervor before we could visit. When we left, it was dark, and we could admire the illuminated building. We ended our evening by exploring the night market with its many fruit and skewer stalls. A nice surprise.
In the morning, we were taken to the shores of Taal Lake, an ancient caldera where a second volcano has formed in the middle of the lake, which in turn contains another lake. We boarded a *banca* to reach the island in the middle of the lake. This was followed by an uphill walk, made difficult by the high temperature (36°C) and the dust on the path. The dust was worsened by the many horses carrying (or bringing back) the less courageous. To illustrate the difficulty of the climb, the trail is marked by the Stations of the Cross and its 14 stations. We were panting while our guide trotted far ahead. Our effort was rewarded when we reached the summit and its viewpoints over the inner lake and the surroundings. The wisps of smoke seen here and there confirmed we were on an active volcano. Inside the lake, there are supposedly 45 small volcanoes, one of which emerged during its last eruption in 1911.
On the way back, we had lunch by the lake before returning to Manila and the Bayleaf Hotel, whose main merit is its location in the Intramuros district. In the late afternoon, we walked along the walls of the old city.
We had dinner on the hotel’s panoramic terrace overlooking the city and the bay.
Day 17:
Last day! Our tour operator joined us for a tour of the Intramuros district. He enriched the visit with comments on the history, geopolitics, and economy of the Philippines. We visited the Manila Cathedral, destroyed 7 times in the past (6 earthquakes and the 1945 bombing). It’s beautiful, and its stained glass is magnificent. We couldn’t enter the San Agustin Church, the oldest Catholic building in Manila. We passed by the memorial to the Battle of Manila, which claimed over 100,000 lives. We visited the area around Casa Manila, which was closed on Monday, and had a drink at Barbara’s cabaret, located in a historic house. A very enriching morning.
Then we went to the Mall of Asia, the world’s largest shopping mall, to buy some souvenirs (Kultura store) before being taken to the airport. We exchanged our last pesos at the buying rate right after check-in.
The return flight went smoothly. We regretted not being able to use the facilities of Istanbul’s new airport, as its opening was delayed by another month.
Finances:
In the end, we spent 1,640 € for the international flights, 4,200 € for the stay (hotels, visits, various transports) with the agency (whose professionalism we can only praise), and about 700 € for meals, tips, and souvenirs.
Summary:
Luckily, we had beautiful weather throughout our stay, with temperatures between 26 and 35°C. Discovering the Philippines was a wonderful experience. The diversity of the landscapes, the kindness of the Filipinos, the cleanliness, and the truly delicious fruits (especially pineapples and mangoes). We were never harassed, unlike in many touristy countries. On the other hand, the food, though generally cheap, wasn’t exceptional.
Since this country is so vast, we might return in the near future.
Though I’m not a specialist on this destination, I’m happy to answer your questions based on my experience.
So, my flight tickets have just been booked for a trip to Cambodia from November 4th to 27th, 2025.
I’ll be traveling solo and want to explore this amazing country while getting a bit off the beaten path.
I’m arriving in Phnom Penh and also departing from Phnom Penh.
My goal is to travel as much as possible by bus and scooter.
What itinerary would you recommend?
What are the must-do things?
I’m open to all tips and info.
Thanks in advance for your help and responses.
