First solo trip to Thailand

Hello Songsam, Thanks for your tips. Do you think I should book accommodations for the whole trip up to December 12th because of the November 25th celebrations? I’m torn and worried because I see everything’s getting booked up fast—I really don’t want to end up in sketchy places 😅... I dreamed of a long-term trip, going with the flow based on the people I meet and my mood, to avoid a super rigid itinerary and schedule. What do you think?

Hi Armelle,

Do you think I should book accommodations for the whole trip up to December 12th because of the November 25th festival?

No, not for the whole trip—just for the festival week, from November 21st to the 29th. If you want, you can also book your first night in Bangkok, for example, in the Khao San Rd/Rambutri area or a bit further north in the less crowded Thewet neighborhood. Then the next day, you can either extend your stay at the same place or switch to something that suits you better after scouting the area.

I’m torn and worried because I see everything booking up fast—I don’t want to end up in sketchy places.

Don’t trust hotel booking sites that say things like "only 2 rooms left for your dates"—it’s just a tactic to pressure you into booking quickly, but it’s not the reality. Plus, not all accommodations are listed on booking sites. You’ll find others on the spot that aren’t listed, and that doesn’t mean they’re sketchy.

I dreamed of a long-term trip, going with the flow based on meetings and inspiration, to let go of a rigid itinerary and schedule... What do you think?

Except for the Loi Krathong week, where it’s wise to book accommodations ahead, your trip can unfold just as you’d like. I’ve been traveling this way in Thailand and elsewhere for 40 years for the same reasons as you.

Something to read that might interest you if the opportunity arises there: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=11077153;#11077153 Even though it’s not the main topic, you’ll see that once I had to ask for hospitality from the monks at the nearby temple.

Hello Songsam, Thanks for your lovely stories—I really enjoyed reading them and often smiled while doing so :) Do you write travel journals?

I’m not planning to hitchhike, but your stories help me understand the country’s customs and culture better :) Here’s where I stand with my bookings: - Arrival in Bangkok on Friday the 13th until Monday the 16th (3 nights booked at a hotel in Bangkok) - Overnight bus to Chiang Mai on Monday, November 16th (bus reserved) - 2 nights booked in Chiang Mai (Monday the 16th and Tuesday the 17th)

I haven’t made any other reservations yet. Based on what you told me about the celebration on November 25th, I need to get moving on booking accommodations for the nights from the 21st to the 29th, but I’m not sure how to go about it since I don’t know where I’ll be during that time... What I do know is that I won’t be dependent on public transport because I can get around by scooter with my international license—I think that’ll be a lifesaver.

I’m not sure how to plan the itinerary from the 21st to the 29th, so I’m struggling with booking those nights. Do you have any ideas for what I could plan? Thanks for your help!

Hi Armelle,

Do you write travel journals?

No, I don’t like writing them or reading them. Just a short one here, but not a real travel journal in the way forum members usually mean (no photos, no visit details or practical info), not in Thailand, and it’s about an old trip in somewhat special conditions: https://voyageforum.com/forum/vieilles-peripeties-o-combien-birmanes-d10795073/

overnight bus to Chiang Mai (reserved bus)

Actually, you didn’t need to reserve—there are tons of bus companies running that route several times a night, so you’ve got at least twenty overnight departures (plus daytime ones). In that case, you just show up at Mo Chit, buy your ticket, and leave an hour or so later. If you booked with Nakonchai Air (NCA, the best in the country), they have their own bus terminal in Bangkok. To get there by taxi: *pai sathani lot mee Nakonchai Air ka* (go to Nakonchai Air bus terminal + polite feminine ending). For Mo Chit, just say that instead of Nakonchai Air.

-Chiang Mai: 2 nights booked (Monday 16th and Tuesday 17th)

On the 16th, you’ll be on the overnight bus from Bangkok to Chiang Mai.

I don’t know how to plan the itinerary from the 21st to the 29th, so I’m not sure how to book the nights. Any ideas for what I can plan?

Beyond what I already suggested? If you stay in the north, you could stop in Tha Thon or explore all or part of the Mae Hong Son loop, with stops like Soppong*, Mae Hong Son**, Khun Yuam***, or Mae Sariang. But avoid Pai—it’s a touristy ghetto for young backpackers (luckily, the main road bypasses it).

* The area’s really nice, with a famous cave and white-water sports. This guesthouse https://www.cavelodge.com/ is good, but their food is pretty bland. For better (and cheaper) meals, head to the 2-3 small eateries in the village 50m away. Bland food is common in most Thai accommodations across all price ranges, though portions are usually a bit bigger. I’ll send you a PM with everything you need to know about food in Thailand.

** It’s a provincial capital that’s a bit touristy but cool, with lots of interesting surroundings to explore if you have your own wheels (nature, villages, ethnic groups…).

*** A quiet village, great for breaking up the Mae Hong Son–Mae Sariang trip. Around Khun Yuam, the fields covered in yellow flowers (Bua Tong) are worth seeing. They bloom… in November and December.

Hi Songsam,

Thanks for this culinary tour—it sounds like a trip that’ll delight my foodie taste buds! I love it :) I’ve revised my itinerary based on your advice, but what’s worrying me is my plans during the Loy Krathong festival...

Is this itinerary doable with the travel time involved? I’ll admit, my lack of experience makes me really doubt the "feasibility"... Thu 19 - Sun 22: Mae Salong Sun 22 - Wed 25: Phayao Wed 25 - Sat 28: Nan Sat 28 - Mon 30: Loei Do you think this route is realistic? If so, I’ll book accommodations with free cancellation. In your opinion, are there any transports I should book in advance for these legs? The *Routard* guide doesn’t mention booking ahead... but the lantern festival could change everything, right?

Since I’m planning to go on to Nong Khai afterward, you’d mentioned taking the overnight train. Should I reserve my seat on that train back to Bangkok now?

Thanks again for your help! Have a great day

Hi Armelle, Before I answer, could you let me know where you’ll be arriving from to get to Mae Salong?

Indeed, I had forgotten... so here’s my detailed itinerary—this way you’ll get an overall idea and can let me know if it seems doable in the time I’ve got: Fri 13: arrive in Bangkok at 9:30 AM Fri 13–Mon 16: Bangkok (3 nights—I changed my mind, I’ll use the weekend to explore the city;) Mon 16: overnight bus to Chiang Mai Tue 17–Wed 18: Chiang Mai (2 nights planned) Wed 18–Thu 19: Chiang Rai (1 night planned)—is that enough? Thu 19–Sun 22: Mae Salong (3 nights planned—not the Sunday one) Sun 22–Wed 25: Phayao (3 nights planned—not the Wednesday one) Wed 25–Sat 28: Nan (writing this out, I’m thinking Phayao is too close to Nan to spend 3 nights there?..) Sat 28–Mon 30: Loei (2 nights planned—not the Monday one) Mon 30–Wed 2: Pak Chom (2 nights) Wed 2–Fri 4: Nong Khai (2 nights) Fri 4: overnight train back to Bangkok Sat 5–Fri 11: Ko Samet (probably return to Bangkok Friday evening) Sat 12: heading home—sniff... takeoff at 9:35 AM

There you go—can’t wait to hear what you think! 😊

Since your first itinerary draft, you've added 3 stops (Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Chiang Rai) that not only undermine your initial goals (few or no other tourists, authenticity, a contemplative traveler’s pace) but also eat up time that would be much better spent elsewhere.

Tuesday 17 - Wed 18 Chiang Mai (2 nights planned)

The detour to Chiang Mai for just 2 nights is completely pointless. Skip it by taking a bus straight from Bangkok to Chiang Rai.

Chiang Rai (1 night planned) – is that enough?

No. If you plan to visit the city and (especially) its surroundings, you’d need at least 3 nights. On the other hand, this is where you could rent a scooter for Mae Salong and the area for a few days before returning it when you pass back through Chiang Rai, then heading to the Terminal 2 bus station there to catch the minivan to Phayao. Ideally, and still following your original plan, Chiang Rai would just be a transit stop for you.

Nan (...) to spend 3 nights there?..)

3 nights, yes—but 4 would be better since it’s a really cool city with beautiful temples that are different from those elsewhere in the country, plus bike paths. But it could also be your second good opportunity to rent a scooter for several days to explore its lovely mountainous province, so you’d need even more time...

Nan (I’m thinking while writing that Phayao is too close to Nan to spend 3 nights there?..)

The two cities have nothing in common—they’re not visited for the same reasons. Plus, they’re not *that* close, with a 5-hour bus ride between them. That said, if you’re short on time, spending just 2 nights in Phayao is doable.

Nan (...) Sat 28 - Mon 30: Loei (2 nights planned, not the Monday night)

You won’t be able to make the Nan-Loei trip in one day. Reread my first itinerary suggestion—I included a transit stop you can’t skip, and doing it this way will let you spend just enough time in Loei to switch buses.

Mon 30 - Wed 2: Pak Chom (2 nights) Wed 2 - Fri 4: Nong Khai (2 nights)

Making such a long detour from the north just to spend a single, measly 2-night stop along Route 211 by the Mekong is pointless. Either you stretch it out to 8 nights total, as I originally suggested, or you skip the northeast entirely.

Sat 5 - Fri 11: Koh Samet (probably returning to Bangkok Friday evening)

6 nights on Koh Samet is way too much, especially since you’ll be short on time elsewhere.

Do you think I need to book any transport in advance for these routes?

Yes, the Phayao-Nan bus—but there’s no need to do it now. Just handle it directly at the Phayao bus station when you arrive from Chiang Rai. For the rest of the road transport, either it won’t be necessary or it won’t be bookable (regular buses or songthaews). In the latter case, you just hop on and find a seat (never next to a monk) or, rarely, stand.

Nong Khai—you mentioned taking the overnight train. Should I book my seat on that train back to Bangkok now?

Yes, because it’s already pretty full. Otherwise, take the bus.

Chiang Rai Bus Terminal 2—the minivan that goes (among other places) to Phayao:

Nan:

Nong Khai Station:

OK merci pour ton retour. Mon itinéraire est bien dégrossi avec plusieurs possibilités, je choisirai selon mes envies du moment. Je n'ai pas envie que ça soit la course donc peut être impasse sur le nord est ou Ko samet... . Ça sera l'occasion d'un autre voyage 😀

Bonsoir Armelle, Je suis partie seule il y a 10 ans et je vous le conseille. J'avais visité Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Lobpuri, Chiang Mai, puis les îles Koh Samiu et Koh Tao pour faire de la plongée. Il est très facile de rencontrer des voyageurs et d'échanger. Bonne soirée Anne

Merci pour votre réponse roxylady ! J'ai hâte d'y être 🙏😁 Sur un autre sujet pour info je trouve intéressant de le partager.. , Au niveau des assurances je découvre un monde...je dois anticiper car j'ai un petit soucis de santé qui s'il se reveille là-bas je devrai être traitée sur place et je n'aurai pas le temps d'être rapatriée. Je remarque qu'on est souvent "sur assuré" sur les mêmes sujets. Je suis assurée par la MAAF (mais mon contrat ne prend pas en charge les frais de secours à partir du lieu d'accident jusqu'à l'hôpital) et j'ai une carte visa premier. J'ai voulu aussi comparer avec chapka (qui est une des réf en terme d'assurance de voyage) et c'est très comparable peu de différence finalement. Le bas blesse au niveau de l'avance des frais pour les frais de secours locaux qui acheminent jusqu'à l'hôpital le plus proche qui n'est pas pris en charge par chapka (il faut donc faire l'avance et il y a un plafond de 10000e) alors que visa premier pas d'avance de frais à faire et pas de plafond . Pour chapka et visa premier concernant les frais d'hôpitaux il faut faire l'avance des frais si on reste moins de 24h. Ce qui est quand très propable vu l'évolution des techniques médicales aujourd'hui qui pratiquent beaucoup l'ambulatoire même pour des opérations (j'ai eu une grosse opération au pied en France en début d'année je suis restée seulement 8h. Aussi à ce que j'ai pu lire et vérifier les hôpitaux thaïlandais (surtout celui de Bangkok) ont très bonne réputation sans parler du tourisme médical (esthétique) qui s'est beaucoup développé. Visiblement ils sont à la pointe de ce qui se fait... Voilà je trouvais intéressant de livrer ces infos mais cela ne doit pas empêcher de parcourir le monde 😝 il faut croire aussi à sa bonne étoile....

Mon itinéraire est bien dégrossi avec plusieurs possibilités, je choisirai selon mes envies du moment. Je n'ai pas envie que ça soit la course donc peut être impasse sur le nord est ou Ko samet... . Ça sera l'occasion d'un autre voyage 😀

Si ta pérégrination te mène sur la route 211 et que tu manques un peu de temps et/ou que tu ne trouves pas de couchette à réserver dans le train Nong Khai-Bkk, tu auras la possibilité de zapper tes 2 nuits à Nong Khai car les cies. NakhonChai Air et Sombat Tour proposent la liaison Sri Chiangmai-Bkk avec globalement 3 bus/nuit.