je pars faire le gr20 la première quinzaine de septembre. Est-ce qu'il est déjà bcp moins fréquenté à cette époque? Dois-je prendre un sac de couchage ou un sac à viande suffit, je souhaiterais dormir en refuge pour ne pas avoir à porter la tente, car je pars certainement seule, les probabilités que j'arrive à un refuge et que celui-ci soit complet sont elles élevées?
Et question Bonus c'est plus sympa Calvi ou Ajaccio? Le gr se fait habituellement du Nord au Sud? OU du moins les guides le décrivent tous ainsi ?
Pour la fréquentation, demande au PNRC, tu as des contacts ICI
Il est préférable de prendre un sac de couchage, les nuits ça peut descendre à +5°. Et un sac à viande pour l'hygiène (en fin de saison, certains refuges laissent à désirer). Prends aussi des "Boules-Quiés"..... Si le refuge est complet, le PNRC propose des tentes avec tapis de sol. C'est comme tu veux mais il est préférable de dormir sous une tente pour être moins perturbé par les couche-tard et les lève-tôt (+ ronfleurs, puants...).
Inutile de réserver, ce n'est pas une obligation comme certains l'affirment. De plus, réserver t'oblige à te fixer sur les dates.
Calvi est plus sympa, Ajaccio est une grande ville. Mais Calvi est appelée le St Trop' de la Corse (comme Porto-Vecchio).
Je conseille toujours de faire sud->nord pour deux raisons : le soleil dans le dos et difficulté allant croissant (de Vizzavona à Calenzana, le plus dur).
Pour info : modification du tracé : l'étape entre Usciolu et Asinau se fait en deux jours (ou un seul si tu marches vite: 8h) : Usciolu-Matalza et Matalza-Asinau. Raison invoquée : des risques d'accident sur un tronçon qui suit une crête ; mais tu peux toujours prendre l'ancien tracé : suivre les marques de couleur grise pour retrouver les marquages classiques.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
on risque de se voir: je fais le GR20 avec deux frangins, la semaine 37, de Vizzavona à Bonifatu. On vise comme toi: portage mini (car 0 entrainement), donc nuits et repas aux refuges.
@ glougoutte, ok si tu vois une fille toute seule avec un sac deuter gris et jaune, c'est moi ! ;-)
@choupi, merci pour le lien, et pour le sac de couchage, je pensais prendre un sac à viande, et je pense que si le refuge fourni une tente, j'aurais droit à une couverture aussi, non? sinon j'ai un sac de couchage 15 degrès mais c'est jsute je pense, non?
J'y vais pour le 10 septembre.
Et après recherche des minimum de température en septembre à corte, et des altitudes de certains refuge (Ciottulu di I Mori : 1980m), il peut faire 0° à 3h du mat' !
Si ça se trouve il fera jamais moins de 10°, mais à ta place je prendrai un duvet 0° température de confort si potentiellement tu dors sous tente (le tien à 15° n'est vraiment pas suffisant).
En espérant que ça puisse t'aider à faire ton choix.
Sylvain.
mais non? mais si tu dors dans le refuge , il y'a des couvertures? il y'en a tjrs normalement en refuge....🤪
Tu veux dire qu'il n'en prête pas si tu dors dans ta tente....non?
L'année dernière, en entier , sens Nord //Sud
Et je confirme ta grande perspicacité , les refuges ne sont chauffés que par le soleil la journée..........la nuit ??
Je vais aussi m'attaquer au GR 20 début septembre dans le sens Nord-Sud. Je prends le bateau jusqu'à Bastia où j'arriverais le 7 septembre à 7h du matin. Je suis à la recherche du meilleur plan pour me rendre à Calenzana, sachant que je voyage seul ce qui elimine la piste Taxi. Il me semble qu'à cette date là ça sera la période hors-saison ce qui réduit le nombre de bus et trains?...
Sera t'il possible de prendre un repas dans les refuges, ça m'éviterait de promener trop de nourriture!
Dernière question, avez-vous une adresse de type auberge de jeunesse à Porto Vecchio pour quelques jours de détente après l'aventure?
En principe , il est possible de prendre le repas du soir en refuge, mais assez cher;Mais beaucoup font"épicerie" , plus ou moins bien achalandée ;
Pour ma part j'avais toujours un peu de pain/saucisson/fromage pour faire face " en cas " et 2 ou 3 barres;
Raison invoquée : des risques d'accident sur un tronçon qui suit une crête ;
La crète qui mène à Usciolu dans le sens sud/nord, n'est clairement pas sécurisée par endroits et pour ce qui me concerne, je me serais très mal vu la passer par temps de pluie et/ou très chargé. Or il me semble qu'elle reste commune aux 2 tracés ?
Sinon, la bouffe est hors de prix sur le GR, que ce soit le plat de nouilles au jus de viande à + ou - 10 euros que proposent certains refuges ou l'épicerie généralement spécialisée dans le refourgage à prix d'or, de produit de la marque éco+ ou carefour discount. D'ailleurs, je leur ai laissé 3 kilos et un paquet de tune ...
Bref si c'était à refaire, je prendrais d'avantage de lyophilisés !
Concernant les prestations des refuges, les réactions négatives sont nombreuses, trop nombreuses. Le GR20 ne doit pas devenir un sentier à but lucratif pour les personnes qui gèrent les refuges. Il est vrai que l'entretien du sentier et des refuges coûte cher* mais certains de ces refuges confondent rentabilité est irrespect (pour ne pas dire "foutage de gueule") : repas de cantine d'un temps passé et cher, accueil des personnes confondu avec réception de brebis dans un enclos.
Je conseille à tous ceux qui ont des choses à dire de contacter le PNRC à Ajaccio. Éventuellement aux collectivités territoriales* et pourquoi pas aux médias régionaux (liste ICI) comme le quotidien Corse-Matin et la radio France-Bleue-Corse-RCFM.
N'oubliez pas de donner aussi vos critiques positives : il y a des refuges qui travaillent avec une gentillesse digne de l'accueil emblématique de l'île.
Vous avez ICI les coordonnées de toutes les équipes du PNRC
* Le PNRC et ses services vivent (équipement et fonctionnement) grâce, surtout, à des aides et subventions des collectivités territoriales, du ministère de l'environnement et parfois des communes.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Le top du foutage de gueule reviens selon moi sans conteste au " bivouac " de Vizzanona " ou il faudra s'aquitter de 6.50 euros pour avoir le droit de planter sa guitounne sur un bout de terrain pourri ( je dis ça pour ceux qui n'ont pas la chance d'avoir une autoportante comme moi ) à 10m de la voie ferrée, douche non comprise ( 2.50 euros en plus à l'auberge de la gare ). Pour info, j'ai refusé ce racket et j'ai été m'installer derrière le parking.
accueil des personnes confondu avec réception de brebis dans un enclos.
Je confirmes, j'ai par exemple trouvé qu'un des 2 gardiens du refuge d'Asinau était juste antipathique ! Et lors de mon passage, je n'étais visiblement pas le seul ...
Celui du dernier refuge avant Conca à l'inverse, était vraiment acceuillant et chaleureux. Dommage qu'il n'ait pas eu grand chose à proposer dans son épicerie ...
Merci !
Sur VF, il y a eu déjà des réactions au sujet du refuge de Vizzavona ! Et d'autres membres de VF qui se sont plaint de certains accueils et repas...
Il faut espérer que les instances du PNRC seront lectrices de ces trop nombreux textes ! Et qu'ils réagiront.
Je fait ce que je dois de mon côté mais tout le monde doit agir !
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
J'avais fait le GR20 il y à deux ans en septembre. Aparrament ce n'est pas le mois le moins fréquenté. Le tout est de partir sur les sentiers courrant de semaine ou du moins en dehors des weekends où tout le monde arrive en corse et part en même temps sur le GR.
Juste, Smandolito : partir en milieu de semaine (sud->nord ou nord->sud) évite les départs qui se font les samedi, dimanche ou lundi ! Tu vas quand même croiser ceux qui vont dans l'autre sens que toi pendant 2 ou 3 jours. Donc, si mes connaissances en maths sont encore bonnes, il vaut mieux prendre le sens classique (le plus pratiqué) du GR20, c'est à dire nord->sud.
Question météo, septembre est normalement le mois des orages en montagne (ça commence mi-aout). Cette année (2011), ces orages et nuages qui arrivent dans l'après-midi n'ont commencé que vers le 10 septembre.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Je souhaite partir en corse et faire le Gr 20 Donc je souhaiterais avoir bon nombres d'informations, Le prix du ferry? Le départ du GR? Combien de temps pr le…
Nous avons prévu de réaliser le GR20 en août cet été avec notre propre tente mais, pour ne pas avoir de sacs trop lourds, sans portage de la nourriture…
Ns envisageons de faire la partis Nord de la GR20 en Aout/Sept 2018. Q: Est-ce que les refuges sont propres? et Est-ce que nous devons faire nos reservations à…
J'ai pour projet de faire une partie du Gr20 l'été prochain, surement avec une amie. Je suis un peu sportive mais pas au point de le faire entièrement, j'avais…
Hi there,
We’re planning an 8-day backpacking trip on the island of São Nicolau. We’re torn between taking the boat from São Vicente or an inter-island flight. I’ve heard the boats don’t always run?
We’d like to make three homestay stops to travel in a star pattern from each of the three points.
First stop around Juncalinho, second stop near Cachaco, and finally a third leg near Tarrafal. We’re looking for simple but authentic guesthouses (no hotels). Any suggestions?
Thanks
Hi there! We’re a couple setting off to walk the Porto to Fisterra trail on September 15th… We’re torn between the coastal route and the inland path—apparently, the latter has a lot of roadside sections. We’d love to hear about your experiences if you’ve done either! Thanks…
Hello,
In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão.
We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours.
One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi.
What’s the trail like?
Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,
Here’s what we’re planning:
A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.
With the agency:
An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk.
Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening.
We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old.
What do you think of this itinerary?
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
hi how can I get internet when I arrive at Haneda? I mean in areas without free wifi. Is it more interesting to buy a SIM card? If so, at the airport? thanks for your help
We're planning to go at the end of November/beginning of December to visit (with a rental car) and hike on La Palma and El Hierro for 15 full days, including 1 day for inter-island ferry transfers. What’s the best split between the two islands—8 days on La Palma and 6 on El Hierro, or even more time for La Palma? Should we have one or two home bases on La Palma? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi there,
I’m planning to cross the Gourgs Blancs Pass at the end of the month, from La Soula Refuge to Portillon Refuge. On this section near the pass, I don’t have any trail marked on my IGN map. Is the path well signposted, or should I use a compass?
Also, beyond the physical effort, are there any technical, exposed, or vertigo-inducing sections on this part?
Since I’m finding very little info, I’m being thorough with my questions.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
Not very well known: Hokkaido Island has national parks that rival those in North America. Hiking there is free (even many mountain huts) and requires no formalities. These treks are described in the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide—you can just buy the Hokkaido PDF. It’s way better than Mount Fuji. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which is very unstable in the Japanese mountains (frequent strong winds). The trails are often obstacle courses.
The Daisetsu Zan traverse is a stunning hike through volcanic terrain with a remote section in the middle that requires at least one night of camping (there are basic huts for the rest, which is popular with Japanese hikers): 4 to 6 days.
The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!
Hi everyone,
I’m leaving on Monday, August 3rd for my very first long-distance trek: the GR223 from Coutances to Mont Saint-Michel, over 6-7 days (~11-14 miles/day), solo.
I’m looking for tips from people who know this section well (Coutances → Regnéville-sur-Mer → Hauteville-sur-Mer → Bréhal → Granville → Genêts → bay crossing):
Budget-friendly accommodations: I’m struggling to find affordable stopover lodgings (a lot of what I find online are expensive vacation rentals, not really suited for a solo hiker). If you have any great spots (hostels, hiker-friendly B&Bs, nice campgrounds), I’d love to hear them!
Bay crossing: Any feedback on guides/providers leaving from Genêts for the final crossing?
General tips for a first long-distance trek: What you wish you’d known before your first time, pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?