notre groupe choisit cette fois le trajet inverse, de Calenzana à Conca...
Certains d’entre nous rentrent à peine d’un trek au Mali et au Burkina,
ils comptent sur le dépaysement... Ils seront bien déçus... Jugez plutôt...
En Afrique, quand une douche est en panne, on la laisse couler,
sur le GR20 aussi...
En Afrique, quand un WC est bouché, on le laisse déborder,
sur le GR20 aussi...
En Afrique, quand une fosse septique déborde, on la laisse s’évacuer,
sur le GR20 aussi...malgré la proximité de la source...
En Afrique, quand un bac à bouche est bouché, on lui casse un bord au marteau, sur le GR20 aussi...
Et les draps... verdâtres pour la circonstance, une couleur masquante...
La norme qui, sur le GR20 serait d’un change toutes les trois semaines... est largement dépassée, si l’on en croit plusieurs gardiens... L’un d’entre eux ne nous dit-il pas que ses draps sont les mêmes que la saison dernière avec ses 9000 passages ?
L’expérience faite de sortir un drap au jour, car il fait sombre dans le dortoir, et de l’examiner par transparence au soleil appuie ses dires...
Et personne ne râle ? Si, sur Internet où l’information circule à la rubrique « GR20 punaises »...
Et personne ne bouge ?
Les « gens du parc » sont dans les bureaux à Ajaccio et les gardiens démotivés par le changement de système de leur rémunération ne se préoccupent plus de l’hygiène, mais seulement de l’épicerie...
Pas tous il est vrai, une mention spéciale aux gardiens du refuge I MORI, qui tiennent la baraque aussi bien qu’en 2003...
Comment expliquer cette dégradation ?
Les refuges sont dimensionnés pour recevoir en général une trentaine de randonneurs, leur infrastructure est alors constituée de 1, parfois 2 WC et de 1, parfois 2 douches...
L’élargissement de cette capacité d’accueil par des tentes louées qui viennent s’ajouter à celles des randonneurs autonomes, peut porter le nombre d’usagers de ces mêmes toilettes à 80 voire une centaine...
On voit bien les problèmes sanitaires qui en découlent et dont tout le monde souffre, mais en particulier le « client » qui a acheté un trentième de service et n’en reçoit qu’un centième pour le même prix...
Nous avons posé la question à plusieurs offices de tourisme corses de savoir pourquoi les professionnels du voyage qui encouragent la promotion du GR20, et qui savent dans quel état sanitaire les voyageurs vont le vivre, ne disent rien : nous n’avons pas obtenu de réponse...
A ce jour dans son édito sur le topo guide, le président du parc devrait veiller à retirer ses références à la santé et au plaisir, le GR20 n’est pas une promenade de santé et le randonneur voit son plaisir amoindri par la hantise de la nuit à passer parmi les punaises et dans la saleté...
Certes pourtant, le GR20 reste le GR20, à savoir le plus rude des GR d’Europe, l’un des plus beaux aussi, et c’est tant mieux, mais il est en passe de devenir le plus insalubre et le plus malsain, n’ayant plus rien à envier de ce point de vue, aux sentiers africains
Bonjour, c'est malheureusement le lot de plus en plus de sites touristiques surfréquentés, la solution (mise a part la rénovation des installations d'accueil) serait peut etre d'instituer un quota de randonneurs comme aux USA sur certains sites. Et peut etre aussi une remotivation des responsables de gite avec controle.
Dans un pays que je ne nommerais pas, un aubergiste a qui je faisais la remarque de la crasse de sa chambre et l'état de la salle de bain (tout était cassé, en morceaux dans un coin, tiroir servant de cendrier plein de mégots etc...)m'a répondu "je suis payé la meme chose, qu'il y ai des clients ou pas, donc moins il y en a, mieux je me porte".
Une très saine conception de l'existence !
Selon le principe bien connu que "le travail c'est la santé, rien faire c'est la conserver". 😛
All Daag, lo geet mueres mäi Wecker. Äls éischt, gin ech da bei den Bäcker. Léif Madame, maacht mir séchs Mötchen dran. S'il vous plaît, parlez-vous pas français ?
mais si, nous commentons sur ce GR. Personnellement, j'ai envoyé un mail explicatif et poli, je n'ai eu qu'un accusé de réception de l'organisme qui gere le parc corse, et encore après avoir envoyé plusieurs copies à toutes les adresses mail du site !! Ils s'en foutent complétement, de toute façon tu n'est pas corse, donne ton argent et tais-toi !! Voilà ce qui transpire quand on cherche à communiquer avec eux !
J'ai envoyé une copie de mon mail à propos du GR20 à la FFRP à Paris, pas de réponse ou commentaire, qu'un accusé de réception d'un robot.
Donc, il vaut mieux aller randonner en Sardaigne, les touristes et randonneurs sont mieux respectés !!
Bonne soirée et je vais m'efforcer de suivre cette conversation.
Un peu dur, Monveymont ! Tous les refuges, tous les gîtes, toutes les structures touristiques ne sont pas délabrés ou sales. Et tous les professionnels ne font pas de ségrégation corse vs pinzutu.
Ceci étant, je suis d'accord pour l'irrespect de certains qui semblent oublier que c'est grâce aux touristes qu'ils vivent. Des petits khons, comme on en trouve partout dans le monde, faut faire avec. Et qui sait, peut-être que les khons ne sont pas ceux que l'on vise ?
J'ai collecté tous les avis sur le GR20 et les ai envoyés (sans donner les sources) à un tas d'adresses concernées : aucune réponse (depuis octobre). Mais je pense que nos démarches sont prises en considération. J'ai aussi fait une intervention sur la radio corse Radio-Bleue-RCFM. Espérons. Je reste également attentif à toutes critiques positives et négatives.
Bravo pour vos démarches aussi : plus ils en reçoivent, plus ils se bougeront.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Salut Isabelle,
JE reviens de mon GR20? Et je te confirme que c'est un peu devenu un parc touristique.
Deux choses: Les refuges commencent à mettre des douches et des toilettes très confortables. Je suis pas d'ok avec ce système car le randonneur puriste ne cherche pas le confort. Un randonneur cherche avant tout le contact avec la nature et le dépassement de soi.
Ensuite, en faisant cette randonnée je me disais que j'allais me retrouver parmi des accro de la rando. Il s'avère que certaine personnes que j'ai pu rencontrer râlaient des repas, du confort, des punaises etc... mais si ces gens recherchent du confort qu'ils aillent au CLUB et à l'hotel!
Mon GR20 je l'ai vécu comme une expérience unique, le sentier reste magnifique et difficile. Quand on arrive au bout de ce périple on a presqu'envie de verser une larme.
J'encourage tous les passionnés de la faire et les autres de rester chez eux ou d'aller dans les hôtels de luxe!
Sportivement!
www.peydelasne.com - Mon BLog sur le GR20
Visitez mon blog pour des infos sur un jeune randonneur!
Oui, Maxplas, le GR20 a été créé pour des sportifs, pas pour des touristes en sandalettes. Mais ce n'est pas une raison pour que certains refuges zappent sur l'hygiène pour ne voir que leur tiroir-caisse. Et ne pas confondre confort et hygiène : dormir sur du dur, pourquoi pas, mais sur un matelas crade qui sert d'élevage de punaises, caché par un drap qui raconte parfois certains plaisirs solitaires, je pense que mon choix est vite fait... tant que mon sommier de pierre est propre.
"Celui qui a atteint son but a manqué tout le reste"
Oui, Maxplas, le GR20 a été créé pour des sportifs, pas pour des touristes en sandalettes. Mais ce n'est pas une raison pour que certains refuges zappent sur l'hygiène pour ne voir que leur tiroir-caisse. Et ne pas confondre confort et hygiène : dormir sur du dur, pourquoi pas, mais sur un matelas crade qui sert d'élevage de punaises, caché par un drap qui raconte parfois certains plaisirs solitaires, je pense que mon choix est vite fait... tant que mon sommier de pierre est propre.
Tout à fait d'accord avec toi Chnoopi,
Retraité de l’hôtellerie
Toujours en train de fouiner...
Une campagne visant à éradiquer les punaises de lit dans les refuges a été effectué la semaine du 19 Avril par le PNCR. En principe, la campagne a été répeté…
Des nouvelles du GR20 (28 juin 2020) - Annonce du PnrC: « Pour des raisons sanitaires, seules les réservations effectuées via la centrale de réservation en…
Mes enfants auront 9 et 7 ans lorsque nous irons en Corse pour 2 à 3 semaines. J'aimerais bien marcher avec eux dans les sentiers. Au Québec, lors d'une…
Je suis à planifier une randonnée pour une boucle de 3 jours. Mon choix se porte sur le trajet passant par le refuge A Sega en empruntant l'itinéraire Mare a…
Voyager à pied › France › Corse / Paris - Île de France · 4 replies
Je suis à la recherche d'infos pour comparer le parcours des 25 bosses à Fontainebleau avec celui du GR20 Sud. Donc si quelqu'un ayant fait les deux pourrait…
I’m planning to do the Mercantour crossing following the Randoxygène route in mid-July.
I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
Can anyone give me some info on this?
Thanks!
hi how can I get internet when I arrive at Haneda? I mean in areas without free wifi. Is it more interesting to buy a SIM card? If so, at the airport? thanks for your help
We're planning to go at the end of November/beginning of December to visit (with a rental car) and hike on La Palma and El Hierro for 15 full days, including 1 day for inter-island ferry transfers. What’s the best split between the two islands—8 days on La Palma and 6 on El Hierro, or even more time for La Palma? Should we have one or two home bases on La Palma? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi there,
I’m planning to cross the Gourgs Blancs Pass at the end of the month, from La Soula Refuge to Portillon Refuge. On this section near the pass, I don’t have any trail marked on my IGN map. Is the path well signposted, or should I use a compass?
Also, beyond the physical effort, are there any technical, exposed, or vertigo-inducing sections on this part?
Since I’m finding very little info, I’m being thorough with my questions.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
hi there
I’m heading to Uzbekistan for three weeks from mid-September to mid-October 2026—a country I haven’t visited yet.
I’d love to do a few multi-day hikes in the mountains without going through a tour operator or hiring a guide. Has anyone here done this?
It doesn’t have to be all trekking; day hikes are great too.
I’m open to any tips!
Also, I see there are lots of train options if you book well in advance—does that only apply to the "fast" trains? Are there buses as well?
Hello,
In mid-November, we’ll be in Mindelo and Santo Antão.
We’ve booked transportation with Kapverden Tours.
One trip is from Porto Novo to Ponta do Sol, including the hike from Corda to Coculi.
What’s the trail like?
Then we’ll be staying in Ponta do Sol,
Here’s what we’re planning:
A hike to Fontainhas—what’s the best direction, considering we’re not great with climbs? No problem with flat terrain or descents.
Take an aluguer to Ribeira Grande and continue along the coastal road.
With the agency:
An excursion to Cruzinha with a short walk.
Return to Porto Novo via the path from Cova to… I’m not sure where yet, to pick up the car for Porto Novo, since we’ll be taking the ferry that evening.
We’ll have a guide for this hike.
We’d love to spend a day in Tarrafal, but getting back requires a boat or taxi, and it’s really expensive!
We’re a couple, 78 and 76 years old.
What do you think of this itinerary?
Not very well known: Hokkaido Island has national parks that rival those in North America. Hiking there is free (even many mountain huts) and requires no formalities. These treks are described in the LP *Hiking in Japan* guide—you can just buy the Hokkaido PDF. It’s way better than Mount Fuji. Of course, everything depends on the weather, which is very unstable in the Japanese mountains (frequent strong winds). The trails are often obstacle courses.
The Daisetsu Zan traverse is a stunning hike through volcanic terrain with a remote section in the middle that requires at least one night of camping (there are basic huts for the rest, which is popular with Japanese hikers): 4 to 6 days.
The Shiretoko traverse takes 2 days with views including an island in Russia, but the ridge is brown bear territory—there are even more here than in Denali National Park in Alaska (brown bears and grizzlies are the same). I ran into 7 in just 6 hours of hiking!
Hi everyone,
I’m leaving on Monday, August 3rd for my very first long-distance trek: the GR223 from Coutances to Mont Saint-Michel, over 6-7 days (~11-14 miles/day), solo.
I’m looking for tips from people who know this section well (Coutances → Regnéville-sur-Mer → Hauteville-sur-Mer → Bréhal → Granville → Genêts → bay crossing):
Budget-friendly accommodations: I’m struggling to find affordable stopover lodgings (a lot of what I find online are expensive vacation rentals, not really suited for a solo hiker). If you have any great spots (hostels, hiker-friendly B&Bs, nice campgrounds), I’d love to hear them!
Bay crossing: Any feedback on guides/providers leaving from Genêts for the final crossing?
General tips for a first long-distance trek: What you wish you’d known before your first time, pitfalls to avoid, etc.
Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
Any tips to make sure everything goes smoothly for us? Things I should know—or avoid? What about shepherds with their flocks of sheep? And isn’t hunting season open right now?
I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
So my question is: which hikes do you recommend where we won’t face the huge crowds that the others get? And where we can book the day before for the next day, taking the weather into account?
Finally, a quick accommodation question: we’ve booked the first week in Funchal, but I haven’t decided yet for the second week. Do you have any advice on where to stay in the south or north, preferably avoiding overly concrete-heavy and touristy spots?
I’m reposting about the logistics for Samaria Gorge.
I’d love to get recent info, especially about whether it’s possible to park my car in Omalos, do the hike, and then catch a bus back to my vehicle.
In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
Along the same lines, if you know of any great campgrounds where we can start our hike directly without needing the car, we’d love to hear your suggestions!
Hi there,
I’m planning to go hiking on this island and would like to know the best time to do it. I visited for a few days in November 2018—not for hiking but just to explore—and the weather wasn’t great, especially in the mountains. So, is a star-shaped itinerary doable if I rent a car and maybe use two different accommodations?
I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
I’m planning a trip around Cap Corse and the AGRIATES in 2026, from May 8th to 15th (there are still 2 spots left, by the way! Just DM me if you're interested).
I’d love to know which hikes are worth prioritizing in the AGRIATES. We’ll be staying in SALECCIA for two days as our base—what should we focus on from there?
A round trip to IGNHU beach? Any other suggestions?
For Ostricano, I think it’s too far for a round trip...
Thanks for your tips!
Have a great day,
Anie, Toulouse
I’d like to get some info about the GR10 Pyrenees traverse. I need help planning the daily stages and accommodations—my wife isn’t an experienced hiker but walks a lot, so I’d like to schedule shorter walking days and thus a longer overall trip in terms of number of days.
Could anyone give me some help and advice?
Best regards,
Hi there, I’m planning the Annapurna Circuit for March 2027 and I’m looking for a local agency with a local guide—preferably French-speaking—to arrange this trek for us. Any suggestions? Thanks
Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
Any suggestions you can share, please?
Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
At the end, I’d like to pick up a rental car—any advice on that too?
I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
