Guest houses in Srinagar

Hi there,

My experience in Srinagar dates back to 2009, but I don’t think much has changed on this topic.

I chose to stay only on a houseboat for 6 days, which had its pros and cons. On the plus side, you get the privilege of being on Dal Lake with long stretches of relaxation in this stunning setting. During my stay, there was a curfew—as often happens—and it was forbidden to walk on land after a certain hour, so staying on the houseboat was safer. The downside was that, even though you can take a shikara (sorry, I don’t know what else to call them!) at any time from the houseboat to explore the lake or reach land, leaving the lake means negotiating with a boatman each time. Kashmiris are often tough negotiators, and then there’s a few minutes’ journey to reach the shore (depending on where you are on the lake). Sometimes I felt a bit stuck on my houseboat, but the curfew was mostly to blame for that.

To answer your question, there’s no "must-do"—it’s up to you whether you prefer enjoying the lake or exploring the city. But if I were to return to Srinagar today, I’m not sure I’d stay *only* on the lake, as I remember having less time to discover the city. Especially since if you want to cruise the lake, staying in a houseboat isn’t absolutely necessary. You just need to get near a shore, and a boatman will come to you offering a ride and plenty of other services.

hi, thanks for your reply, which confirms that I should make two choices for practical reasons. We’ve booked the first two nights on a houseboat, and we’ll decide what to do next once we’re there.... We’ve got plenty of time since we’re leaving for 30 days and will arrive directly in Srinagar and explore Kashmir and Ladakh during this period from mid-May to mid-June. If you’ve been to this region, do you have any tips, contacts, or info to share? We’re open to any suggestions. Looking forward to hearing from you, Rozenn

For Kashmir or Ladakh?

Hi there! We’re arriving in Srinagar and flying out of Leh a month later. We’re planning to visit the Nubra Valley and the Tso Moriri and Pangong lakes for an 8-day taxi circuit. We’re also considering the Zanskar region for 5 days if the roads are passable. Before reaching Leh, we’re thinking of spending 3 days in Sonamarg, then Lamayuru, Alchi, and the Cham Valley before heading to Leh. We’re unsure about Pahalgam—we’re not trekkers, but we can handle half-day hikes. That’s roughly our plan! We’ll be there from May 15 to June 14. Thanks!

My trip to Jammu-Kashmir was back in 2009, so it’s a bit hard to give you contacts now. I remember that in Sonamarg, you could do treks or just go for hikes on foot or horseback. I didn’t stop in Pahalgam, but the little neighboring village of Aru was a wonderful base for a walk or a trek in that typically Kashmiri vegetation. In Ladakh, the Nubra Valley (especially Turtuk) and Pangong Tso were real highlights. Alchi was nice, and Lamayuru was amazing, especially from the ridges up high. Leh was a must-stop, of course—some buzz but also lots of Indian tourists. I didn’t make it to Zanskar.

Hello, thank you for your reply, which confirms and continues to guide us. Tourism has undoubtedly changed this region, but it still sparks the desire to discover it and meet the people there. Thanks for your messages! Rozenn

I forgot to mention that my trip to Jammu-Kashmir was back in 2009, but my Ladakh trip is a bit more recent and dates from 2016.

Have a great trip and happy encounters!