31-Day Japan Itinerary: From Kyushu to Tokyo
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
LE
Hello everyone, what a pleasure to be back on this forum!

My partner and I are heading to Japan for the first time from mid-December to mid-January for 31 days. It’s a long-held dream we’ve been saving for over two years, and we want to enjoy ourselves while also being mindful of our budget for parts of the trip. We’d love to explore Tokyo, but we’ve chosen to spend more time in nature. My partner plans to get his driver’s license translated locally so we can rent a car. We’ve heard from friends who’ve been that Japan isn’t the best place for improvisation, so we’ve tried to allow plenty of time in each location to avoid rushing. Still, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary we’ve planned—whether it’s feasible in terms of travel and how interesting it seems. Given the recent increase in the JR Pass price and the fact that we’ll spend about ten days on Goto, Ojika, and Yakushima (where the JR Pass doesn’t cover travel), we don’t think it’s worth it for us. Instead, we’re planning to take the train from Tokyo to Fukuoka and then use buses and ferries for the rest of Kyushu. Here’s our itinerary:

1- December 13 / Arrival in Tokyo, one night in Tokyo, then departure for Fukuoka by train on the morning of the 14th.

2 - December 14-16 / 2 nights in Fukuoka, sightseeing, then departure on the evening/night of the 16th by ferry to Ojika Islands.

3 - December 17-21 / 4 nights on Ojika, cycling and exploring, then departure on the 21st by ferry to Fukue on the Goto Islands.

4 - December 21-24 / 3 nights on the Goto Islands, renting a car to explore, maybe a trip to Hisaka. Departure for Nagasaki by ferry on the morning of the 24th.

5- December 24-26 / 2 nights in Nagasaki, visiting the city and memorials, possibly the hot springs in Unzen. Departure on the evening of the 26th by bus or ferry (?) to Kumamoto.

6- December 26-29 / 3 nights in Kumamoto, sightseeing, day trip by car to Mount Aso and surrounding areas. Departure on the 29th in the late afternoon by bus to Kagoshima, overnight in Kagoshima.

7- December 30 to January 2 / Morning departure by ferry to Yakushima for 3 nights, hiking and exploring the island. Departure on January 2 on the only ferry (?) in the early afternoon back to Kagoshima.

8- January 2 to 5 / Uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to the 5th at a ryokan in Kurokawa Onsen and then head back to Fukuoka and Tokyo by train on the 5th. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we’ll arrive in Kagoshima in the late afternoon, we thought we could head back up to Kumamoto by train or bus—going to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us with very little time. But is it worth staying another 2 nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’ll already be there for 3 days from December 26-29? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the afternoon of the 4th for our overnight stay?

9- January 5 to 13, Tokyo and its endless things to do and see, then back to France!

If you have any advice on any of these stops, we’d love to hear it! Have a wonderful day.
BE BeneFukuoka Veteran ·
Hello, I find the Kyūshū section really well-balanced. And what a surprise to see Ojika among the destinations! The island is still relatively unknown but so beautiful. I spent 3 nights there (plus the one on the ferry—amazing) just a month ago, and I can’t wait to go back. Fukue is also a big favorite. Don’t hesitate if you have any questions about these islands (or Kyūshū in general).

8- January 2nd to 5th / uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to 5th in a ryokan at Kurokawa Onsen, then leave by bus for Fukuoka on the 5th before taking the train to Tokyo. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we arrive in the late afternoon in Kagoshima, we thought we could head up to Kumamoto by train or bus because getting to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us very little time there. But is it worth spending 2 more nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’re already there for 3 days from the 26th to the 29th? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the evening of the 4th for that night?

First tip: if you want to stay in Kurokawa, check availability right away. It’s still New Year’s holidays at that time, and the village might be packed. I think you’ll have already seen a lot during your first stay in Kumamoto, so I’m not sure it’s worth going back. Why not just stay in Kagoshima? Between the volcano, Ibusuki and its sand baths (so nice in winter), Chiran, the entire Minami-Satsuma peninsula, Kirishima, etc., there’s plenty to see and do.
Spécialiste du tourisme francophone à Kyûshû et guide à Fukuoka http://www.benefukuoka.com | https://www.instagram.com/bene_fukuoka
SI Sissi57 Globetrotter ·
Hello, I’m responding about the budget aspect, because Japan has a reputation for being an expensive country that I think is very undeserved. I’ve taken two trips there in 2018 and 2023.

For car rental: return the car in the same prefecture to avoid one-way fees. This usually means planning a loop itinerary.

When choosing accommodations, if you’re renting a car, pick hotels with parking. You can’t park on the street, so you’ll need to find a public parking lot near your lodging—it’s not always easy.

Speaking of hotels, budget-friendly options aren’t too pricey. Chains like Toyoko, APA, and Dormy, for example, let you stay for around 60 € per night. A hearty buffet breakfast is included, and there’s usually some Western food if you prefer. They also always have a laundry room. It’s not "traditional Japanese" if you’re hoping for a ryokan-style stay, but it’s very much modern Japan since the clientele is mostly Japanese.

As for food, restaurants aren’t expensive. Train stations usually have lots of eateries, and unlike in Europe, they’re not sketchy areas. You can easily eat for 20-30 € for two. At convenience stores (7-Eleven, Lawson, etc.), you’ll find meals like sushi platters, onigiri, more Western-style sandwiches, custards, fruit, pastries, and instant noodle soups (great in a pinch). There’s a seating counter and kettles, so you can eat on the spot. Often, there’s also a display with hot food at the checkout. If you had a big hotel breakfast, this is a practical and very budget-friendly option.
Je n'aurai pas le temps...
LE Lenriviere ·
Thanks to both of you for your replies :)

Yeah, I can’t wait to discover Ojika! For Kurokawa, we’ve already booked, and it’s true that a lot of places are fully booked—plus, many are closed at this time of year... I have a question about the Goto Islands: I read somewhere that a car is essential to get around there. Is that really the case? Actually, my boyfriend really wants to drive, but we’re still keeping in mind that he’ll need to get used to driving over there and test the waters. It’s true that it might be simpler to stay in Kagoshima when we get back from Yakushima. I’ll look into the routes to Kurokawa on the 4th.

Thanks, Sissi, for all the budget info :)
SI Sissi57 Globetrotter ·
Driving in Japan isn’t a problem at all. You get used to driving on the left pretty quickly, and Japanese drivers are generally pretty relaxed—except they don’t stick to speed limits on the highway. Outside of highways, traffic can be really slow. The most important thing is to have a GPS, and make sure the rental company sets it to English. You can enter your destination using a phone number, which makes things easier (everything has a phone number!)

During our last car rental, the company had put a small magnetic sign on the car’s fender. When we translated it, it said that a foreigner was driving. So we took it off (it’s not a mandatory sign).
Je n'aurai pas le temps...
BE BeneFukuoka Veteran ·
I have a question about the Goto Islands—I read somewhere that a car is essential to get around. Is that really the case?

On Ojika, it’s not essential. The island is small enough that you can get around by bike, but a car is still more convenient (we really appreciated having one with two young kids). On Fukue, though, it’s a must. I don’t have a license, so I spent a week relying on buses. Even though there are quite a few, they don’t cover the whole island—or if they do, it takes forever. I ended up having to join a bus tour to visit places I wanted to see, like Cape Osezaki (no buses go there at all).

Why not rent a car on Ojika to get used to driving on the left? The roads are really quiet, and people drive slowly.

If you’d like ideas for things to see on Ojika, I posted our whole trip on Instagram in pinned stories and started making posts: https://www.instagram.com/bene_fukuoka/ (I also talk about Fukue, a bit earlier in the year).
Spécialiste du tourisme francophone à Kyûshû et guide à Fukuoka http://www.benefukuoka.com | https://www.instagram.com/bene_fukuoka
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi there, Just a heads-up that translating your driver’s license for Japan can take up to 2 weeks—something to keep in mind if you’re staying for 31 days. You’ll need to apply online via the JAF app, but only while you’re in Japan. It costs 4,000 yen (about 24 €) by credit card, if nothing’s changed. Alternatively, you can do it in person at a JAF (Japan Automobile Federation) office, but processing times vary from a few hours to 2 weeks. 😠
Cordialement, Patrick.
SI Sissi57 Globetrotter ·
Another option, which is more expensive, is to go through the agency DestnationJa......., which charges 80 euros, but this allows you to get your translation before leaving. The translation is valid as long as your national driver’s license is valid. I don’t know how it works for a French license, but my Swiss license doesn’t have an expiration date. So I don’t need to renew the Japanese translation.
Je n'aurai pas le temps...
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

For the French driver’s license, you can get the new card format for cars at 15 years old—unless it’s for medical reasons, in which case you’ll need to renew the card later.
Cordialement, Patrick.
NA Nathalie971 Regular ·
Hello,

What a great idea, the Goto Islands! I was hoping to go this year, but it’ll have to wait.

I’ll answer in no particular order.

For the French driver’s license—if it’s the old dark pink paper version—there’s no expiration date, so the translation will be unlimited. On-site, it takes a few hours. I did it in Kyoto, and we only waited 1 hour, but you’ll need to factor in travel time. You can probably do it in Tokyo or Fukuoka. Check the JAF agencies. Getting it done beforehand through an agency takes 2 weeks and offers peace of mind, but it’s *very* expensive—more than 3 times the on-site price. It’s up to you to decide what works best.

For driving, ... On the left side, I had the same concerns, but don’t worry—it’s easy to adapt. Japanese drivers are calm and rarely honk, which actually stresses *us* out. Plus, the cars are automatic, so you don’t have to worry about shifting gears. For GPS, twice now, it hasn’t worked well with phone numbers. The last rental car I had, though, had a Google search function that worked perfectly when entering an address. Worst case, plan for Maps.me—it works offline if you download the maps ahead of time. If you have internet, Waze or another GPS is fine. Make sure to ask the rental company to show you how to use the main features if you’ve never driven an automatic before.

For returning the car, dropping it off at the same location saves money. However, depending on your plans and budget, the extra fee for returning it in another city might fit into your itinerary. Returning it to the same place adds a constraint—see if that works for you. I’ve rented in one place and returned in another several times, and it was more convenient for me. The extra cost was around 100 €.

I also vote for staying in Kagoshima—the area is fantastic, and the vibe is really pleasant.

Finally, booking in advance isn’t essential (except for certain places), but it’s practical. With free cancellation, you can adjust your plans based on your mood, the weather, or how you’re feeling. However, I think booking ahead is cheaper. Right now, I’m in Japan unexpectedly, and all my bookings were made a week in advance. The accommodation options are limited, and the prices are much higher than on my previous trips, where I booked 3–4 months ahead.

And yes, renting a hotel with parking if you have a car is a must.

Driving in Japan is a pleasure.

Good luck!
https://voyageforum.com/forum/decouverte-japon-tokyo-archipel-ryukyu-okinawa-d9857265/ https://voyageforum.com/forum/escapade-japonaise-shikoku-kyushu-yakushima-tokyo-d9999494/ https://voyageforum.com/forum/kyushu-entre-fukuoka-nagasaki-automne-2024-japon-d10654938/

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