Accommodation, hiking, and solo travel questions for Santo Antão
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Translated into English.

Original post
AI
Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget. If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them. For those who’ve done multi-day treks while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about itineraries you’ve done without a guide, just with a map and GPS. Thanks, and have a great day!
NO Noirenvoyage Regular ·
Hi Aichatou, I went to Santo Antão on a solo trip, and it’s truly an incredible island for hiking. The easiest way if you want to walk for several days is to sleep directly in the villages along the way: Cruzinha, Cha d’Igreja, Fontainhas, or Ponta do Sol. You’ll find plenty of small family-run guesthouses—often simple but very welcoming.

I did three days of hiking. The Paul Valley on the first day, then one of the most beautiful (and accessible) hikes is the coastal trail between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol. The landscapes are spectacular—sleeping in Ponta do Sol. And the last day was the Ribeira da Torre loop.

If it helps you prepare, I wrote a full recap here: Santo Antão hikes

Solo, I always felt safe on the island, and Cape Verdeans are very helpful with hikers.
Voyager Autrement est Possible Un Voyage à votre image Voyages en immersion et éco-responsables
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi Kris, Since March is peak season, there are quite a few tourists around, so you might run into some. Whether you can share transport and accommodation depends on the person, I guess, and their itinerary. You should know that Cape Verde isn’t the budget destination you might expect (not like some countries in Asia or mainland Africa, for example): Because it’s an archipelago, *everything* is imported and expensive (food, accommodation, fuel, transfers...)—and that goes for Cape Verdeans too. 😉 Even flights used to be pricey. Now low-cost airlines have entered the scene (good? bad?), but before, it was crazy! On São Vicente, I think there’s a kind of youth hostel (you should be able to find it on Booking), and in Ponta do Sol, there’s a new budget place that just opened with a shared kitchen, so you can cook and avoid restaurants (MeloMar). Otherwise, in small mountain guesthouses or homestays, you’re looking at around 30 € per person (night + breakfast + dinner). For a basic room in a guesthouse, it’s between 25 and... € (depending on the place). That should give you an idea. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
To keep costs down, with or without a guide, the ideal is to find 1-2 friends to travel with. ;O)
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi Kris, I was there as a couple in January, so I can’t really say what the crowd is like in March. With age, we’ve been traveling with suitcases for a few years now... My wife can’t carry a backpack for several days to do multi-stop trips, so we had to have our luggage transported from guesthouses to hotels, and with taxis, it wasn’t cheap. We also didn’t stay in the most budget-friendly guesthouses most of the time, which really blew our budget. If you’re doing a multi-stop trip without transporting your luggage, use *collectivos* and stay in guesthouses run by Cape Verdeans (many are run by foreigners—Dutch, Americans, etc.). That way, you can easily stick to a small budget (though it’s still a bit more than in Nepal). Short on time, no computer... I’ll come back later to give you some route ideas and addresses—some villages have accommodations (pensions) that aren’t online, and if some are full, you’ll always find somewhere to stay in villages or small hamlets. Housing is pretty spread out in the west. Otherwise, a sleeping bag is unnecessary—they have blankets if needed... For transport, you can often take *collectivos* to leave the main "towns"—it’s super cheap. Just check the map for where you want to stop, either to start your hike or reach your guesthouse. They stop on demand, but when you’re heading back, passing *collectivos* are always full! You’ll have to walk or take a taxi (10 times the price of a *collectivo*).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi Jean-Michel, I kinda get why you’d encourage people to go to places run by Cape Verdeans… but foreigners who’ve settled here also have the right to work. 😉 Just like foreigners in Europe can do. Would you tell someone to eat at a Parisian restaurant run by a French person instead of the local kebab place? That’d probably go down pretty badly. 🤪 I’m not trying to start a debate at all—quite the opposite. But I live here in Cape Verde as a foreigner, and like any expat anywhere in the world, it’s not always easy to find your place… even though I firmly believe there’s room for everyone, as long as you feel good where you choose to be. 🙂 Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
I kind of understand encouraging people to go to places run by Cape Verdeans... but foreigners living here also have the right to work. 😉 Just like foreigners in Europe can do. Would you tell someone to eat at a Parisian restaurant run by a French person rather than at the local kebab place? That would probably go down pretty badly.

I don’t quite get what you’re saying. I’m only chiming in here to help someone spend less on trekking... the rest doesn’t matter much to me. For info, in Cape Verde, we pretty much (unintentionally) stayed with foreigners: Dutch, English, Belgian, American, and even a German/American couple where the wife, who’s been living in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo for over 20 years, didn’t speak a word of Portuguese (great integration!). Just to clarify, we weren’t exactly on a tight budget. If I were alone, I wouldn’t have booked anything at all (I’m not big on planning) and would’ve stayed only with Cape Verdeans—first to soak up the simple local life, and second because the prices are lower. (The comfort is also more basic, that goes without saying.) I didn’t stay long enough in Cape Verde to judge, but I did notice that all the places we stayed (mostly run by foreigners) were more expensive than those run by Cape Verdeans... The main reason being that the latter often have less comfort. If someone asked me about France and a foreign backpacker asked me for cheap hotel recommendations in Paris, I’d probably say the opposite... to head to the poorer neighborhoods (18th or 19th arrondissements) and stay in hotels run by foreigners (Algerians, Moroccans, etc.).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
No worries. Like I said, no controversy—just sharing ideas and feelings.

So, I’ll confirm that in Cape Verde, you can also find accommodations run by foreigners at lower prices (not the majority, admittedly)... and, conversely, places run by Cape Verdeans at higher prices (though there are actually quite a few of those now!).

But it’s true that in the mountains, during treks, most places are run by Cape Verdeans who own the land and their homes (so either small family-run guesthouses or homestays in their actual houses). 😎 Still, it’s not exactly cheap compared to other destinations—around 30 € per night per person (including night, breakfast, and a meal). It’s still a budget to consider.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hello, for those who’ve been there recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport costs or a room? It seems like traveling cheaply isn’t easy. If you have addresses for simple accommodations or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them. For those who’ve done multi-day hikes while moving around: do you need to bring your own sleeping bag? I’d love to hear about your itineraries that can be done without a guide, just with a map and GPS. Thanks, and have a great day!

Hi Kris, And since you mentioned coming these next few days, here’s the current weather update: it’s raining, raining, raining!! Pretty "unusual" for this time of year. Hooray for Santo Antão, the plantations, and the water reserves—but watch out for slippery paths. Normally, it should calm down tomorrow or the day after, though it’ll stay cloudy.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
It’s still not exactly cheap compared to other destinations: on average 30 € per night per person (night + breakfast + meal). It’s still a budget.

Do you know the average price of meals in restaurants... For example: Once we ate at Pico da Cruz, a small eatery in the village. I paid 1.90 € for a catchupa with eggs.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
To sum up how we went about hiking... First, we asked for a quote from Nobai, a trekking agency based in Mindelo. With daily luggage transport, some guided starts to hikes, and accommodations and meals booked in mid-range/good guesthouses and hotels, it came to 840 € for just 4 days. We used their itinerary as inspiration and first did our own 4-day trek, booking the accommodations ourselves and using taxis and collectivos for transport. The following days, we made 3- or 4-day stops in 3 different places and hiked in a star pattern (loop hikes).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi there, I was talking about the evening meal. It’s usually included in the half-board option at mountain accommodations. Otherwise, you can grab a daily special for 200-300 escudos or a cachupa for cheap. Or a full midday meal at mountain lodgings typically runs 700-800 escudos.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
To sum up how we went about hiking... First, we asked for a quote from Nobai, a trekking agency based in Mindelo. With daily luggage transport, some guided starts to hikes, and accommodation and meals booked in mid-range/good guesthouses and hotels, it came to 840 € for just 4 days. We used their itinerary as inspiration and first did our own 4-day trek, booking accommodations ourselves and using taxis and collectivos for transport. The following days, we made 3- or 4-day stops in 3 different places and hiked in a star pattern (loop hikes).

Hi Jean-Michel, Just curious—was that 840 € per person or for how many people? Thanks,
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
It was for 2 people and 2 meals weren't included. One at noon (at Isabel's?) in a village halfway between Cruzinha and Ponta do Sol, and another in the evening in Ponta do Sol (we were staying at Música de Mar). So there was 1 night at Quinta Cochete (Ribeira das Patas), 1 night at Luz do Sol (Cidade das Pombas), and 2 nights at Música de Mar (Ponta do Sol), totaling 4 nights. Apart from the 2 meals, everything was included: breakfast, dinner, and the night, plus all transportation, of course, and the price of the Mindelo–Santo Antão ferry. During our stay in Santo Antão, we actually stayed: 2 nights at Quinta Cochete (Ribeira das Patas)

1 night at Luz do Sol, in Cidade das Pombas (so Cape Verdean!)

3 nights at Música de Mar (Ponta do Sol)

3 nights in Tarrafal de Monte Trigo (Mar Tranquilidade, run by a German-American couple)

1 night at Suzeth’s in Cha da Morte (so Cape Verdean!) 1 night at Alto Mira 3: Amadeu de Dos Ramos (Cape Verdean!) 4 nights at Altea Panorâmica (Paul Valley) Total: 15 nights.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Thanks so much for the info! So, for two people, that actually seems like a more reasonable price, even if it’s still a budget, of course. But in the end, it works out to 105 € per person per day for accommodation, meals (not fully covered but still a good amount), transfers, ferries, and some guided activities... If you organized it yourselves, did you manage to spend less on average?

Yes, Luz do Sol in Vila das Pombas is a great family-friendly spot and really nice! It’s a bit tucked into the bend, but it’s fine in the end.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
By organizing it yourself, did you manage to spend less on average than that?

About 25% less (estimate)—it’s hard to say exactly since we stayed an extra night at Quinta Cochete (Aluguer after getting off the ferry) and arrived later at our destination, so we didn’t do the planned hike on the first day (just a short walk) but did it on the second. We had plenty of time, so what we were supposed to do in 4 days, we actually did in 6. Taxis really blow the budget! There’s quite a bit of waiting for taxis, just like for collectivos. With a dedicated driver, we would’ve “wasted” less time.

Yes, Luz do Sol in Vila das Pombas is a great family-friendly spot and really nice! A bit tucked into the bend, but it works out.

From the outside, it doesn’t look like much, but the inside is fine. The staff is friendly, and the comfort and food are very decent.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
AI Aichatou Veteran ·
Thanks for all your info! Since the flight ticket I was interested in is no longer available, I’ll take my time planning this trip instead and would love to meet up with you. Have a great day!
PT Ptitortue Veteran ·
Hi Kris, You're welcome! Whenever you're ready! And I'm here for any questions you might have if needed. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.

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