Je voudrais remercier les douanes malgaches qui ont pris un réel plaisir à nous bloquer sur Tamatave pendant 4 jours. 4 jours interminables à courrir du port à l'aéroport, des guichets d'air mada aux bureaux des douanes, 4 jours de bonheur absolu dans un pays dans lequel on ignore tout.
Le temps, quelle notion relative, ils ont tout le leur et nous nous sommes toujours préssés. Nous avions 17 jours pour relier Diégo Suarez depuis Tamatave, un programme ambitieux mais cependant réalisable. C'est sans compter sur l'aide des autorités locales et plus exactement du receveur des douanes. M Stanislas.
Saviez vous que vous pouvez rentrer dans le pays avec un ordinateur portable qui vaut 3 fois le prix de ma bicyclette sans être embété. Cependant, lorsque vous arrivez avec un vélo tout équipé pour le voyage, vous étes là pour faire du business, traffic de vélo ou je ne sais quoi ...
Merci à Air madagascar à qui nous avions confiés nos bagages qui les ont fait transiter par différentes villes pour finalement arriver à bon port considéré non pas comme un bagage accompagné mais comme du fret et donc recours à des professionnels du transit international pour pouvoir récupérer nos biens notamment nos brosses à dents et autres trousses à pharmacie.
Tout n'est pas noir, cependant. Nous avons pu récupérer nos vélo au bout de 4 jours de négociations et de formalités administratives. Nous avons réaliser notre périple en doublant certaines étapes et en trichant un peu en faisant du taxi brousse et du cabotage.
Enfin, nous avons fait un très beau voyage à partir du moment ou nous avons quitter les rues boueuses et sales de Tamataves. Nous avons rencontré des gens très bien et vu des paysages extraordinaires.
Si vous partez là bas, sachez que ce qui nous est arrivé n'est à priori pas fréquent, mais tout peut arriver. Les autorités sont maître de votre temps. Alors patience. Un petit cado bien placé aurait peut être était plus efficace ? Nous ne le serons pas. Prenez si vous avez une facture du vélo avec lequel vous voyagez. Evitez Air Madagascar et préférez Air Austral.
effectivement mada est un pays extra mais les autorités ne sont pas faciles pour ma part j'ai toujours effectué mes voyages là-bas avec quelqu'un du pays et cela facilite nous avons vu cependant des arrêts aller beaucoup plus vite pour d'autres qui utiliser la manière du "billet"en douce mais ne voulions pas rentrer dans cette pratique, notre ami malgache ayant déjà assez honte de cette image.
Pour le temps, ce n'est pas pour rien que la devise est "mora-mora" soit doucement doucement il faut en tenir compte dans la préparation d'un voyage là-bas surtout aux aéroport, les avions sont rarement à l'heure mais aussi les taxi brousse ou autre. c'est un pays où les imprévus sont quotidien mais les rencontres formidables.
Pour air madagascar l'avantage est juste une réduction de 10 % je crois sur les vols intérieurs.
bonsoir
Quelle formidable leçon de patience!
Les imprévus sont inévitables dans ce pays et la meilleure façon pour débloquer une situation stagnante est la patience et surtout le calme. Les gens énerves font un peu extraterrestres.
Project a vivid image of what you seek into the landscape of your life. What greets you on your way will be the images of your own creation
Effectivement, il ne faut pas être préssé. Alors pour ceux qui comme nous ont un impératif de retour, mieux vaut prévoir large au niveau du planning. Cela permet de profiter d'avantage du voyage en faisant des pauses, laisse du temps à l'arrivée pour faire des ballades et des achats et surtout permet de palier aux imprévus tels que nous avons vécus.
Je suppose que vous avez pris les pistes vers le nord (Manompana, Mananara nord, Maroantsetra), comment avez vous fait pour traverser Masoala avec les Vélos?
Entout cas chapeau pour l'exploit!
Project a vivid image of what you seek into the landscape of your life. What greets you on your way will be the images of your own creation
Je pars dans 2 semaines pour Mada au départ de Paris avec AIR MADAGASCAR, et avec vélos et sacoches !!!
Je n'ai jamais lu de tels déboires sur voyage forum ou d'autres forum avec cette compagnie.
Je croyais (et c'est ce que m'a dis la personne de la compagnie au téléphone quand j'ai réservé les billets) que nos vélos allaient en soute dans le même avion que nous ... comme ça a été le cas quand j'ai embarqué ma "fidèle" monture pour aller au Danemark et je n'ai eu aucun problème.
Alors je sais bien que le Danemark n'est pas Mada (et heureusement..)mais quand même !
Est-ce que d'autres personnes ont aussi été bloqué en douane à cause des vélos ?
Je te remercie pour le compliment mais je ne considère pas ce voyage comme un exploit, c'est disons juste un instant de liberté qui permet de rencontrer d'autres gens qui ne vivent pas comme nous et d'autres paysages encore sauvages.
Pour le trajet, nous avons fait:
J1: Tamatave - Soanierana: 165 kms de route goudronnée, vallonnée sur la deuxième partie
J2: Soanieran - Antanambe: piste sablonneuse au début puis ça s'améliore.
J3 Antanambe - Manambrousse: piste difficile jusqu'à Mananare (cailloux, dénivellé)
J4 Manambrousse - Maroantsetra: bonne piste parfois collante (sable humide)
J5 transfert par bateau depuis Maroantsetra jusqu'à Masoala (arrivée noctune et débarquement à la nage après chavirage de la pirogue qui était venue nous chercher pour nous ramener à terre)
J6: Masoala - Vinanivao: étape courte et superbe, difficulté parfois pour trouver son itinéraire.
J7: Vinanivao - Rantsieranana
J8: Ratsierana - Antalaha: décors dévasté par les cyclones et la déforestation qui fait contraste avec les paysages précédents.
J9: Antalaha - Sambava puis Vohémar en taxi brousse pour rattraper le temps perdu en début de séjour.
J10: Vohémar - Diego en bateau de commerce.
Pour traverser Masoala, vous pouvez le faire en bateau sur un boutre ou bien le faire à pied avec l'aide de porteurs. Compter 3 à 4 jours à pieds avec portage des vélos.
Pour la galère que nous avons connus, c'est apparemment pas courant si l'on en croit l'aéroport de Tamatave (M. le directeur de l'aéroport de Tamatave), si l'on en croit les gendarmes qui nous ont plusieurs fois délogé du local des douanes mais qui conprenaient notre mécontement, et si l'on en croit les autres amis ayant déjà fait un voyage similaire sur Mada.
Le magasinier des douanes sur l'aéroport de Tamatave nous a dit que ce sont de nouvelles directives venues de plus haut mais je n'ai qu'une confiance très relative dans ce type là.
Enfin Air Madagascar (agence de Saint Pierre La Réunion) nous a vendu des billets d'avion pour lesquel je me suis renseigné pour le transfert des vélos à bord. Ils m'ont dit qu'il n'y avait aucun problème. L'avion au départ de Saint Denis était un ATR (petit avion à hélice) en surcharge. Donc ils ont décidé d'envoyer nos bagages et donc nos vélos sur un autre vol. C'est la raison pour laquelle nous n'avons pas voyager avec nos vélos. Nos bagages ont été considéré comme fret en provenance de La Réunion pour Madagascar et ont pris la voie douanière pour l'importation.
Nous avons finalement pu récupérer nos baggages après de nombreux essais infructueux en signant un papier minable de transit temporaire. En clair, nous nous sommes engagé par écrit à ramener nos bagages avec nous. Mais c'est folklorique !!! Il faut remuer ciel et terre pour trouver le papier officiel et le faire signer par les personnes compétentes.
Sur 17 jours de vacances, nous avons connus 4 jours de galère et nous avons sérieusement songé à rentrer sur La Réunion lorsque la situation était completement bloquée. Aujourd'hui, je ne regrette pas d'avoir persévérer mais ça nous a réellement gacher le voyage.
A ce titre, je ne pense pas que ça fasse de la bonne publicité pour ce pays qui pourtant aurait tout intéret à attirer des devises étrangères pour le bien de sa population et pour son développement.
Quel sera ton itinéraire ?
Je te souhaite bonne chance pour ton voyage et pour ton arrivée. N'hésites pas à dire comment ça s'est passé pour toi.
Salut,
J'envisage moi aussi de partir avec vélo et sacoches mais en Octobre prochain, je ne suis pas fixée encore sur l'itinéraire définitif car je ne connais absolument pas Madagascar. Je serai interessée de connaitre ton circuit et surtout avoir ton feedback.
En attendant, bonne préparation.
Tchao
I’ve got my flight ticket sorted—departing in mid-November and returning in mid-March. I’ll arrive in Santiago and leave from Buenos Aires.
I’ve already been to southern Argentina, specifically Torres del Paine National Park, and I’d love to go back to do the full W trek (I only did the shorter version last time).
I also want to do some hiking and maybe even tackle a summit. I climb and occasionally do some mountaineering, so I’ll definitely be going with a guide.
I plan to start around Temuco in Chile, with the idea of heading toward the lakes, then taking the Carretera Austral.
I’m not sure if I’ll go all the way to Ushuaia—it’s supposed to not be *that* worth it, except for the bragging rights of saying you’ve been to the end of the world.
I saw there are lakes in Argentina too.
I don’t have a precise itinerary, but what I’d love is, once I reach the southernmost point of my trip, to take a mini-cruise to see some wildlife. Any tips for that?
What kind of sleeping bag did you take? Is a 0°C (32°F) one enough?
And one last question: white gas stove or can I get by with my gas stove?
Hi there,
I’ve been road cycling for several years, and I’m about to switch to gravel in the next few days—I’m waiting for my bike, which should arrive this week.
I’m planning a bikepacking trip in a few weeks along the Véloroute V81, also known as the Vélosud, from Biarritz to Le Barcarès.
Has anyone here already done this route? Any info is welcome, whether it’s about the route itself, gear, or accommodation. I’ll prioritize staying with locals as much as possible. On that note, I just signed up for the brand-new site *Guidon et Couette* ((www.guidon-et-couette.fr)), which offers free accommodation between cyclists across the country, but there’s almost no one listed along my route!
Thanks in advance.
Laurent.
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
After testing it for three years across various modes of transport, I’m sharing this video of a bike packing case. It’s made from recycled cardboard and shrink-wrapped, with adjustable thickness and added bubble wrap depending on the level of protection you want.
Installing spacers at the fork and chainstays makes the packaging compact. With the fifteen-odd euros for shrink-wrapping at the airport, this case travels really well.
https://youtu.be/_GDJi-GqmkM
- Low bulk (1.10m x 0.70m x 0.25m for a large frame), it fits vertically in train luggage compartments and the total dimensions (x+y+z) don’t exceed 2.40m.
- Two carrying solutions for public transport and easy handling by airport staff (no more tears in the cardboard from openings).
- Discreet packaging when dealing with bus drivers and train conductors, as it looks like an ordinary parcel.
- No need to return to the starting point to retrieve the case from your outbound trip, which you’d otherwise have to store somewhere, or deal with a bulky cover to pack in your panniers.
- You can still check tire pressure through the plastic film without damaging the packaging too much.
Drawbacks: Around 3 hours for this lengthy and meticulous process—removing the wheels, pedals, handlebars, and derailleur without misaligning them, then securing all components to the frame.
If you get a chance to test it, send me your feedback for future improvements.
Hi there, I’m planning a cross-Canada bike trip, and I’ve got a question that might seem silly, but could someone tell me how to pack a bike (in a box, with a fragile sticker... I don’t know) for a flight? Thanks in advance!
This summer, we’re planning to cycle along the EV 19 that follows the Meuse River from Langres all the way to Rotterdam.
My question is about getting back to Nantes.
Do any of you know what the best return option might be? I’d love to hear about your experiences.
I saw that FlixBus doesn’t take bikes.
By train, I think it’s possible but would involve multiple local trains.
We were also wondering if there’s a boat from Rotterdam to Saint-Nazaire that could take passengers with bikes.
Any tips or experiences you can share would be really helpful—thanks in advance!
Have a great evening
I’ve gotten used to crossing Europe by bus to return by bike.
It was really convenient to take the bike without having to disassemble it.
But FlixBus no longer accepts bikes...
What alternatives do you know about?
Thanks.
Hi there,
I’m planning to ride the Dutch section of the EuroVelo 19, from Maastricht to Rotterdam.
Since it’s too complicated to bring my bike on the train, I’m looking to rent one locally.
I’d love any tips or bike rental shop recommendations—I’m struggling to find options even in Rotterdam.
The plan is to rent in Rotterdam, take the train to Maastricht with the bike, then cycle back to Rotterdam.
Thanks in advance for any advice or suggestions!
Nath
I’m planning to cycle from Morlaix to Brest (via Roscoff and the V45 coastal route). We’ll start riding on August 16th for 13 days (with stops for island visits, surfing, etc.). Is there a lot of traffic at this time of year? I’ve got two kids, 11 and 13, and we don’t like riding in the middle of cars (we’ve already done the Vélomaritime—Caen to Cherbourg—the Loire route from Orléans to Saumur, the Vélodyssée from Nantes to Royans, and the canals like the Nivernais and Bourgogne, where there were plenty of bike-only lanes, which isn’t the case on this route).
Thanks for your help if you’ve already done this route in late August!
Virginie
I’m planning to build a new touring bike.
I want to prioritize lightness.
That said, I’m tempted by a suspension fork that could offer some comfort on rougher roads.
The recent appearance of gravel suspension forks on the market might meet my needs—at least on paper.
I’m particularly considering the RockShox Rudy Ultimate XPLR fork.
Unlike MTB forks, its travel is short: either 30 mm or 40 mm.
It weighs 1400 g, which is 400/500 g more than a steel fork.
Any thoughts or real-world feedback on this?
I’m also wondering about the durability of magnesium (lower leg) for long-distance bike touring.
And what’s the impact of skipping the manufacturer-recommended maintenance every 50 and 200 hours? That’s bound to happen on a long trip unless you carry extra gear.
More generally, how reliable are these kinds of forks?
Hi everyone,
I wanted to share with you the incredible feat my friend José, who’s 72 years old, is currently undertaking. He left Auterive near Toulouse on Monday, May 18, 2026, on his non-electric bike, heading for the North Cape in Norway!
You can follow his route on the link below—he’s currently in Sweden:
https://thierry-thomas.travelmap.net/jose-de-toulouse-a-nord-cap-2026
You can zoom in on the map and click on each stopover town to see the photos
I’m making an exception and creating a separate post this time, since it’s all about France. In May, we spent a week in Provence, specifically in the Luberon, exploring the cycling routes *Autour du Luberon à Vélo*, the *Véloroute du Calavon* (part of EuroVelo 8), and the shorter *Les Ocres à Vélo* route. Together, they gave us an amazing journey through rolling hills, vineyards, lavender fields still green in spring, and some of the most stunning landscapes in southern France.
It was, of course, the perched villages that impressed us the most. We visited Gordes, Roussillon, Bonnieux, Lacoste, Lourmarin, Ménerbes, Oppède-le-Vieux, Cucuron, and Lauris. Many of them are among the most beautiful villages in Provence, and it’s hard not to agree with that reputation.
One interesting point is the route of EuroVelo 8 in this part of the region. The official path mainly follows the old railway line of the *Véloroute du Calavon*, which is very comfortable and safe. But in our opinion, cyclists traveling EuroVelo 8 around the Mediterranean would discover even more treasures if the route passed through villages like Bonnieux, Lacoste, or Oppède-le-Vieux.
We were also pleasantly surprised by how safe cycling felt. Most of the route takes small local roads, but traffic is light, drivers are respectful, and road design really takes cyclists into account. It’s one of those places where you can ride peacefully even without separated bike lanes.
Our full story:
Around Luberon by bicycle - the most beautiful villages of Provence
You can also find all our cycling travel stories on the forum:
Cycling Thread - Europe’s most beautiful bike routes
Hi there, we’re a group of 4 cyclists looking to get from Treviso in Italy to Munich with our 4 non-folding bikes. It seems complicated! Are there any solutions? Thanks so much.
hello fellow cycling enthusiasts
here’s a travel journal of the cycling tour through the Rhône-Alpes Auvergne region by Claudio
zouli
it was the plan
http://cbandiera.free.fr/parcours/auvergne-Ralpes/
the trip was completed
story being posted online soon
1100 km in 11 days
beautiful and varied regions
Hi there, we’re planning a Munich to Venice bike trip at the end of June 2026. Getting back from Venice to Toulouse by train with 4 bikes isn’t straightforward. What return options have others who’ve done this trip chosen? Any tips or great deals would be much appreciated. Thanks a bunch! !
Hi everyone,
Happy owner of a Pegasus Estremo bike with a Rohloff hub, which is giving me trouble with the SF11-NCX-FT-E-LITE 700C TS 300/0 fork (serial number TD01329060). It’s starting to show its age, and I’d like to repair it to extend the life of my beloved bike.
The suspension is gone, and there’s an oil leak from the seals.
Does anyone know how to repair it? Where can I find parts that are about fifteen years old? Or where to find an identical replacement fork? Just to clarify, the Magura HS11 brakes are mounted using Firm Tech, meaning they’re on pivots behind the fork, facing the frame.
Hi, I'd like to know if anyone has done this route recently or has reliable info.
Does the track exist, and most importantly, is there sand (for biking)?
Any info is welcome.
Cheers,
diego ambilobe: mangaoka, manondro, ramena
vohemar sambava: masondrono, tanambao
Hi there,
New to bike touring,
I’d love to start with a section of the Via Rhona to explore and share (route to be decided).
Looking forward to exchanging tips!
I’m landing in Madagascar with a buddy before the end of April 2026. We’re planning to bike around for about twenty days or so. We don’t have a specific goal other than exploring the country and meeting the locals.
Ideally, we’d prefer a loop route starting from Antananarivo with a good chunk of it along the coast. On the bike side, we’re used to riding 6 to 8 hours a day, depending on the needs, encounters, and mood 😉 Any feedback or tips from trips around this length?
A big thank you to Lazarou for all the info you share in this forum!
I'm passionate about Morocco, which I cycled through back in 2009.
Last year, my wife and I explored the High Atlas by tandem. Completely smitten, we're heading back in April (Anti Atlas) and May (High and Middle Atlas), still on our tandem.
Do you have any info on the track between Amezri and Ali Ait Nito? Are the river crossings in the Tessaout still there? It's not easy to navigate with a loaded tandem... especially if the river level is high due to this year's heavy snowmelt!
Thanks in advance for any tips you might have, and best wishes for health in this new year!
Claudio specializes in the route of the Savoie lakes
Here are his travels
Between Bornes, Chartreuse, the Savoie foothills, and Dauphiné
Five lakes: Léman, Annecy, Paladru, Aiguebelette, Bourget, not to mention a few ponds along the way
Plenty of accommodation options: camping, hotels, and more...
A lovely route not far from his place
Rural and quite peaceful
A road cycling route created by Serge B...
First of all... happy New Year! Wishing you great roads in 2017!
I’ve been traveling for a few years now with a high-quality mountain bike, but it’s equipped with hydraulic disc brakes. I live (pedal) with the constant worry of a breakdown (leak, air bubble, heat causing the fluid to...). My bike mechanic tells me it’s impossible to switch them out for V-brakes.
What do you all think? Am I taking a big risk continuing (alone) with these brakes? Thanks in advance for your great tips!
First post here to share a quick recap of our west-to-east bike trip along Algeria’s coast in January 2025.
It was just the two of us—my partner and I—with French passports and not a word of Arabic. No friends or welcoming hosts in the country.
Under those conditions, we’d strongly advise against going.
Our original plan was to follow the coast from Algiers to Tunis. We ended up cycling from Algiers to Béjaia, then took the train from Béjaia to Annaba (with a stop in Constantine), and finally biked to the border.
We were tailed by police the whole way—whether on our bikes, on the train, or even on foot while exploring towns. On top of that, we couldn’t wild camp and were limited to the few state-approved hotels that accept foreigners. Under those circumstances, connecting with locals was especially tough.
With such an omnipresent and intrusive police presence, we’d definitely recommend against this destination for bike touring. A really sad situation that completely cuts you off from the local population...
We’d been warned, we went to check it out, and we weren’t disappointed!
Hi there,
I’m planning the route to cycle from Lille to Nordkapp with my partner.
Duration: 3 months, from May 1st to July 31st, 2026.
In the attached details below, I need to add some "non-riding" days (rest days, basically).
So I’m looking to "shorten" the trip by taking ferries or trains for some stretches. Which areas could I skip?
Thanks in advance for your great tips.
Have a good evening.
https://www.komoot.com/fr-fr/collection/4023980/-lille-cap-nord-1er-mai-au-31-juillet-2026?ref=collection
I’m planning to bike back from Poland this summer. Does anyone know a way to ship it there without having to take it apart? Otherwise, it’s a real hassle to fine-tune all the settings before departure!
Thanks in advance.
Hi, has anyone recently bought Primus or Butagaz gas, possibly puncture-style, in Dubrovnik or the surrounding area? Same question for Albania... thanks. aichatou
