My daughter (22) and I set off to explore a bit of her grandfather’s homeland.
We left on July 26 from Roissy and arrived in Rabat with Air France.
We had a few hiccups retrieving our luggage—1.5 hours of waiting and a mini interrogation at customs about our host’s address (they asked for a reference) and questions about a Moroccan ID card I’ve never applied for. Next time, I’d better have it—dual nationals get extra scrutiny.
We headed to the ONCF station to catch the train to Marrakech. First-class tickets cost 195 MAD, with assigned seats and decent comfort… the catch? The train was delayed, so we arrived at 2:50 AM instead of 12:10 AM.
We chose the Ibis Gare, located between the ONCF station and the Supratours bus terminal. We booked two nights from France for 79.85 €. To avoid the premium-rate call, just dial the hotel directly—they’ll handle the reservation. I’d signed up on the Ibis website beforehand for a discount (free and comes with perks).
On-site, we added 44 MAD for the tourist tax (11 MAD x 4 nights). We skipped breakfast—too pricey at 6.50 € per person. The hotel has a nice pool and a pleasant setting. The shower seals weren’t perfect, but the bedding was comfy, the linens soft, and the AC worked (though it was noisy). We were overall happy with it.
We had breakfast and lunch at a café/restaurant right across from the hotel—affordable and tasty.
For phones, we bought two Inwi SIM cards for 30 MAD each and a 5 GB internet top-up for 50 MAD—more than enough for our 16-day trip. Later, we added two 20 MAD call top-ups. Total phone budget for both of us: 150 MAD.
Taxis in Marrakech: No issues. We always asked for the meter—if a driver refused, we’d just move on. No haggling for us!
Day 1: We visited the Majorelle Garden (70 MAD per person). It was beautiful and peaceful. We walked there.
In the afternoon, we took a taxi to Jemaa el-Fnaa square. The constant solicitations were exhausting—I felt like a guard dog fending people off. The worst part? We got lured deep into the medina to some sketchy spot under the pretense of seeing "Berber tanneries"—"last day!"—then had a guy grab our arms, demanding 200 MAD. I offered 50 MAD max since we hadn’t asked for anything. When he insisted, I threatened to go to the police. He finally let go for the 50 MAD. We headed back to the hotel to enjoy the pool before returning to the square for the evening. It was lively but noisy, and I found the vendors *way* too pushy. We walked back to the hotel—an hour-long stroll that was actually really nice. We kept no more than 150 MAD in our wallet at a time.
We stuffed ourselves with smoothies—they’re *so* good.
Day 2: We left at 8:30 AM for Tinghir with Supratours, arriving at 4:45 PM instead of 4:00 PM (lots of roadwork). Tickets were 130 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag.
We stayed one night at the "Retour au Calme" hostel—super cozy! 150 MAD for a room with a private shower and toilet. AC was an extra 80 MAD per night (not mandatory) but worked great. Phone: +212 5248-34924.
Breakfast was 30 MAD, and they offer tons of options, including budget-friendly choices like a couch for 80 MAD per person with shared showers/toilets. Half-board and full-board are also available. Mohamed and Alexandra are lovely. I booked by phone and paid on-site—they even picked us up from the bus station!
We took a taxi to the Todra Gorge—a breath of fresh air! It’s stunning and humbling. You feel tiny there.
Shared taxis cost 8 MAD per person (fixed price). The organization was impressive.
To get from the city center to the bus station: 3 MAD per person.
Day 3: We left at 4:00 PM for Merzouga, arriving at 9:30 PM. Tickets were 80 MAD per person + 5 MAD per checked bag.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Houssein, one of five brothers running the "Auberge Océan des Dunes." We had a lovely room with a private bathroom and kitchen access. Two rooms are available in this unit for 190 MAD per night for two, including breakfast.
Ocean Dunes Hostel
It's a family-run place managed by a brotherhood of five men.
The construction is rammed earth, the walls are 50 cm thick and retain heat... great in winter. The water in the bathrooms isn’t heated in summer... the shower is very hot (low pressure), no AC in our room but there are fans. In summer, the water can be cut off at night—bring a bucket or ask for one to have some for the night.
Don’t drink the tap water... no one does, including the locals. However, they drink well water, but they advise tourists to stick to bottled water.
This hostel also welcomes campervans and campers with tents. Others sleep on the terrace or outside. Towels and blankets are available in the rooms.
There’s no TV, but Wi-Fi is available in the common areas, and you can cook your own meals.
You can see the dunes from the hostel—20 minutes on foot to walk on them.
Day 4: Departure with a shared taxi to Rissani’s Sunday souk, accompanied by Houssein, who said he had errands to run. He wanted to come with us!! ;) and didn’t ask for anything.
15 DH per person for the taxi.
We wanted to buy plastic flip-flops but went for leather instead—same price, 40 DH.
Visit to the kasbah, which is being fully renovated—50 families live there, and it’s really nice.
Heading to Moulay Ali Cherif, the birthplace of my grandfather’s family. Not knowing the ksar where he was born, we settled for the mausoleum... refreshing.
Back at the hostel, we cooked zucchini, ate yellow melon, and then headed to Houssein’s family palm grove and the dunes... I loved it, but then I felt unwell from the heat. I went back to the room—I was a total slug!!!
Romy went back to the dunes to move around... without a hat—"It’s ugly and uncool!!!"
Then back to the hostel... couldn’t eat anything solid! Just water, water!!! Romy had a quarter of Moroccan watermelon for dinner... you can guess the result... sick all night! Couldn’t see the sunrise because it was cloudy, and we were exhausted.
Even though we were supposed to leave the room at 1 PM, they let us stay until 6 PM and took us to the bus at exactly 7 PM—they were adorable, especially since we were both so sick.
7 PM departure for Meknes... Supratours. Houssein had booked our tickets in advance.
170 DH + 5 DH per person.
On the bus, I felt like throwing up the whole way. The rest stop smelled amazing with grilled food—I wanted some!!! But I was so scared of getting sick. Arrived at Meknes station at 3:30 AM—annoying but super fresh!!! Cold, we walked for an hour to our destination and waited for a reasonable time to show up. A café owner let us in while he was setting up.
8 AM, arrived at Hemti’s, my late dad’s sister’s place. Time to sleep.
Thanks for this travel journal.
I always admire travelers who get by (and do it really well) using only public transportation.
That often means more or less long journeys "on foot."
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
Not necessarily, Alain—by using the "petit taxis" or shared taxis you find everywhere, personally I don’t really walk much (unless I want to explore a specific spot by wandering around).
It’s just a matter of getting used to it, a reflex to develop.
🙂
You're absolutely right, because there's always the option to use the "petit" or "grand" taxis, which are usually available at bus stations.
You're a perfect example of that (confirmed by Hannah when she stayed at our place in July.😉
"Il vaut mieux faire des enfants quand on est vieux, on les em...de moins longtemps (Desproges)
that said, it’s true that sometimes you’re stuck "in the middle of nowhere" in quite a few spots that are nearly impossible to explore without your own car. The trip Hannah and I took really drove that home.
But hey, they’re still amazing road trips anyway.
Days 6, 7, 8, 9 – Meknes and Fes
We discovered the concept of French time vs. Moroccan time here:
French: 30 minutes late
Moroccan: 2 to 3 hours late...
A certain leisurely pace—eat, sleep, eat, sleep, etc...
Different houses and homes, from the simple house with all the comforts to the modern home in a beautiful neighborhood with marble everywhere, one level with 5 living rooms—basically a rich person’s house. Opulence of refined food.
We were also lucky enough to be invited to share an afternoon snack in Moulay Driss in a very modest home where the key words are generosity and sharing. We only took photos of their mode of transport: the donkey.
Volubilis, which I could only see from afar due to a paralyzed foot. But Romy enjoyed it and took photos of the site at sunset for us (photos to come).
We could only spend one day in Fes—what a shame! A Moroccan woman we met on VF drove us to the Hôtel des Mérinides—what a stunning view!! Just wow! The place is truly magical. The medina, briefly! But too many solicitations. My daughter had a negative preconception, and I was struggling to walk, so it wasn’t easy. I’d go back alone.
The stories from VF members really make me want to get to know this city better.
The evening we returned to Meknes, we were lucky enough to be shown around the medina—I loved the activity in the square at nightfall. We feasted on *boubouch* and chickpeas with cumin, and always smoothies.
We had to show great determination to avoid being pulled in every direction... but we couldn’t escape the *baptême*—the baby was 7 days old.
Outfits were lent to us... the celebration happens in two parts: a party for the men in the afternoon and for the women in the evening. The chance to show off the most beautiful outfits and jewelry.
It was really fun seeing women having a blast while the men of the house were outside in the garden waiting for the party to end (6 AM). Dinner was served at 2 AM... 🤪 I was thinking about the baby being shown off like a trophy in deafening music.
What I didn’t like: seeing half-eaten bread thrown out with the trash. That didn’t sit right with me.
Friday morning, French-time meet-up with my cousin (punctual), and we visited my dad’s grave—he’s not buried in a cemetery but in a Zaouia (though I’m not sure).
Visit to the family home and a hammam that opened in May 2017—it’s gorgeous, with the option for a private space. Of course, the place isn’t mixed—separate hours for men and women. I’ll share the address later, and I think it’s 15 DH per person... super clean.
That’s it for Meknes.
Saturday, the train to Rabat—left on time but took 4h30 instead of 2 hours!! The train was pulled by donkeys, but luckily, we had first-class tickets, so we were seated. 95 DH per person.
on prices
cigarettes:
I know it's not good to smoke but:
1 pack of Marlboro in Morocco 33 MAD
At duty-free 28 € for a carton payable in euros
69 € for 3 cartons... don't try to outsmart customs.
The tram is very handy in Rabat-Salé: 6 MAD with a transfer allowed within an hour. There are 2 lines, which limits options.
Casablanca: 8 MAD, or with a rechargeable card (costs 15 MAD) it's 6 MAD.
A Coke in a café: 8 to 10 MAD
Fresh fruit smoothie: 10 to 25 MAD depending on the place and fruits.
Black coffee: 7 to 15 MAD
Bottle of water in a grocery store: large 6 MAD, small 3.50 MAD, Coke 5.50 MAD for half a liter.
Sparkling water Oulmes isn't bad.
For food:
Cheese panini with fries: 12 to 20 MAD
Moroccan salad: 10 to 15 MAD or a big salad
Grilled chicken: 10 MAD for 2 pieces (back + drumstick) (in the medina)
Fresh orange juice: 5 to 12 MAD
Watermelon: we paid 22 MAD for 8 kg.
Zucchini, tomatoes: 5 MAD/kg
Peaches, nectarines: 5 to 15 MAD
Grapes: 5 to 10 MAD
Round bread: 1 to 2 MAD.
Prickly pears: 1 MAD
Ice cream: 3 scoops for 10 to 35 MAD
Italian ice cream: 1 to 6 MAD...
Honey and sesame cakes, those twisted things... 750 g for 10 MAD
Boubouch: 5 to 10 MAD per bowl
Couscous: 22 to 70 MAD per person
Little tip for toilets: always carry tissues or wipes with you.
hi there
The train, taxis, the bus... I’ve done this several times, and it often leads to great interactions. I’m thinking of one time when we got stuck during a bus strike—waiting in Ouarzazate for hours... then a stop in a village on the way to Merzouga!
No hostels, but a young man invited us to his family’s home. Amazing welcome, good meal, comfy bed (and yes, good beers—they do drink a little alcohol), then the next day, a visit to the gorges (though the taxi was pricey)... more waiting... a walk through the palm groves...
Really a different way to experience things...
But since then, I rent a car, which lets us go where we want, when we want—and at my age, that’s a big plus!
After crunching the numbers, when there are four of us in the car, the budget is pretty much the same!
Anyway, thanks for your feedback!
It must be moving to reconnect with your roots!
francia
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
🙂
For food, I love everything on your list, except for boubouchs 😠—I just can’t do it! And yet I’ve tried 😉
Were there no more strawberries?
In March, we feasted on strawberries and raspberries.
In order:
Dakhla’s couscous
Agadir’s raspberries
Agadir’s salad
Bennis’ gazelle horns in Casablanca
Octopus tagine in Safi...
Based on my calculations, I think the car becomes cost-effective for more than 2 people... and what freedom!
As for the roots, it's just childhood memories... and also to show my daughter lots of things and landscapes, since I don’t have a great feeling about the Maghreb.
Personally, I’m not too confident about driving in the mountains... but I’ll do it one day! In cities like Meknes, though!!! Total maniacs! 😡 I thought I was going to die with a taxi! My daughter was folded in half! Not me!
We were lucky to meet a 21-year-old guy in Tinghir, an intern at the hostel "Retour au calme"... He speaks French and gets by in English, with some German and Spanish too.
Originally from the mountains, from a family of 9 brothers... he had to fight to get the right to go to school. His parents live in a troglodyte house. Great for the AC!!! 😎
In primary school, he walked 3 hours a day; in middle school, 6 hours a day. In his second year, a French mission provided them with school transport. He’s now a high school graduate and wants to go to tourism school... and he’s saving up to pay his part. My Romy said: "And we complain about taking the bus for 500 meters!"
It was a really lovely encounter.
No more strawberries or maybe frozen ones.. but the peaches and melon are so good.
The gazelle horns pastries are too sweet for me... I prefer my grandma’s, she uses half the sugar. I’ll send you her recipe sometime... simple to make but time-consuming.
For food, I only mentioned the things I bought... because my favorite starter is felfla and matécha (peppers, tomatoes, garlic, olive oil, coriander, cumin, etc.) simmered and served cold or hot. I ate it with the family because they all passed the word around!
I only really liked the boubouch from Casa, at the place where my mom used to go in the 70s. The owner is still there, old and all hunched over... and he still recognized us.
Sfeng are greasy but so good, same for msens.
Great photos of delicious eats, as they say.
Those little macarons (I think they're bitter almond macarons) are making me crave them, same with the salad & tagine!! 😛
I can tell these are gazelle horns—I eat dozens of them (I’m more into sweet than savory) when I’m over there. It’s the cookies next to them that make me think of little bitter almond macarons. Is that what they are, or something else?
I’m still reading your story. It’s going to be super helpful for anyone who wants to get a general idea of prices.
I’m really enjoying the rest of it too. I’ll write a more detailed reply later.
I’m still in Aragon—just as hot as Morocco. Yesterday it was 38°C… I’m melting, but luckily there’s AC in the room.
Take care of yourself! The heat was really tough for me... and my Romy suffered after making fun of me!!!
It's true, I wrote a little section on costs... it was a real stress for me... just trying to live normally after coming back from vacation without crying... but I guess it's understandable, right? I didn’t want to think to myself on the way back, "How am I going to manage!!! I’ll never go away again."
When I retire, I’ll travel whenever I want... but since I’m only 50, given the current situation, I’ll have to wait about 20 to 25 years for retirement!!!😕
My next trip will be solo!! No doubt about it! Playing guard dog for Romy really got on my nerves!
Customs was a pain—interrogation, overzealous bag search for my carry-on on the way back... even asking my mom and daughter to step away.
I’ll post some photos soon...
I’m looking forward to your travel journal... you make every one of your getaways sound so tempting!
So I’m replying to myself!
I’ll post the photos out of order... just as I feel like it!
On the road before arriving in Tinghir on 07/28, clean window in the bus!!
I thought it was a fortress! No, just rock! Impressive!
At noon in the sun, you can feel the heat just by looking at the photo!
The drive to make things grow!!! It's the women who take it on!!! Brave and discreet.
We were kindly asked to leave so as not to capture their hard work on camera...
Tinghir again
Didn’t want to show off!!! The peacock at the "Retour au calme" hostel—he’s still gorgeous though!! But I chased him around to get a photo...
Don’t worry, this is often what’s missing in some travel journals: "how much it costs" ;)
For the rest, I think it’s spot-on—no sugarcoating, no forced sentimentality, just your travel story and how you felt about it.
I really enjoy reading your posts.
it was hot! but they still work the fields... it's the women who do the farming.
It felt strange seeing this empty house. So many memories!!!!!! So much life, shouting, and smells of meals being prepared—because in Morocco, you eat all the time! Like many treasures, it’s unoccupied, but it’s a family heirloom... and the owner... can’t bring themselves to part with it. It’s the house of my late grandfather!
No, it's my grandfather's and then my uncle's house.
I never lived there... just visited. It's been empty for 3 years!
Yes, it still belongs to my uncle, which is how we were able to go there to take photos.
But many well-off Moroccans prefer the comfort of a modern apartment while really wanting to keep the family property empty!😕 My daughter didn’t get it!!
Best,
A.
We had this in France too... And still do. New houses next to beautiful farms, in my village.
Now the beautiful farms are being rehabilitated into housing. Some keep a lovely charm, but others, unfortunately, become "low-income housing" for rental profitability. That’s the case in my village. It’s really ugly and not very humane.
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
If it were just that... but in my area, beautiful farms are left abandoned.
The region isn’t very touristy, so vacation rentals don’t work out 😕. Plus, there are no jobs, so no young population to get excited about the charm of old buildings. Instead, awful concrete blocks like Parisian suburbs are being built, while pretty houses crumble. Here, people would rather let them fall into ruin than lower the selling price and actually sell!
Heartbreaking. 🤪
It was hot! But they still work the fields... it's the women who do the farming.
It felt strange seeing this empty house. So many memories!!!! So much life, shouting, and smells of meals being prepared—because in Morocco, you eat all the time! Like many gems, it’s unoccupied, but it’s a family heirloom... and the owner... can’t bring themselves to part with it. It’s the house of my late grandfather!
In 1967, one of the 4 open living rooms
This house is stunning—such a shame it’s not lived in!
Maybe a few updates are needed, but it’s so much better than those concrete apartment buildings where you have to install AC... and everything breaks down so fast!
Another beautiful home that’ll end up crumbling like so many in the medinas, unless it’s sold to foreigners.
Such a shame, but I get it—when I was younger, living on a farm in the countryside, I dreamed of the city, of an apartment with a bathroom, etc... At first, it was great!
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
It’s really quite sad, but in the 80s, many houses in the Marrakech medina that had been left abandoned were bought up by foreigners... Some Moroccans are outraged. Yet in more conservative cities, they hold on to them, even without the means to restore them.
For this particular house (an old annex of a palace), that won’t be the case, as modern comforts have been added over the years.
But so many others would cost more to restore than to build a new villa. In the medina, the houses are all connected.
After that, we headed to Rabat by train... the journey was really long. Another donkey-pulled train! We arrived late in the evening. The station is quite nice.
The city is huge with all these new neighborhoods... it's clean!
Hay Riad, where we stayed, is on the edge of the built-up area. Below the terrace, there’s a large garden with scattered shantytown-style housing. In three years, it’ll be upscale apartment buildings.
We really liked what makes this city special.
We did a lot on foot—it’s pleasant, especially Avenue de la Victoire in the morning. It’s lined with individual houses nestled in greenery, with wide, clean, well-maintained sidewalks. The houses aren’t new; they’re more from the colonial era. However, it’s impossible to get on or off the sidewalks with a wheelchair —I had to be careful with my wobbly leg.
I loved the cleanliness of the medina. Construction workers start at 6 AM and work until the shops open around 11 AM. The alleys are wide, and it’s easy to get around, but after 5 PM, it’s chaos! The shopkeepers are really friendly. I didn’t haggle—if the price didn’t suit me, I just moved on! Many shops display their prices.
I couldn’t resist the rows of jewelers (silver and marcasite). They let us browse without being pushy.
Some vendors, though, saw us coming and quoted outrageous prices. When I didn’t accept, they’d ask, "How much can you pay?"—just give me a fair price!
On the morning of my departure (a Friday), I took a walk through the medina. I made sure to have plenty of 1 MAD coins (6 minutes of Morocco’s minimum wage)... the beggars aren’t pushy at all. They sit and wait. You give and move on.
The Kasbah of the Udayas is so pretty—I only knew about the garden before. There are lots of cats, especially moms with their kittens!! It’s adorable, and I assume they’re cared for and fed because they’re not wild, they’re clean, and there aren’t too many... no smell at all!! The males must be kept away, and the waste is cleaned up.
We climbed up the ramparts—it’s beautifully flowered with a lovely view of the Bou Regreg... some trash down below, but you just look up!
We also went to the neighborhood around Moulay Youssef Hospital—it’s working-class but not poor. We saw so many small tailor artisans!! I sew, and my mom embroiders... so we loved admiring the work of these men. Their creations are made to order only. In the early evening, we walked through the market in this neighborhood! The stalls were gorgeous... even nicer than in the medina—it was lovely!
Girl thing—we tried a beauty salon... super clean and cheap with our currency. Eyebrows: 15 MAD, individual false lashes: 100 MAD, blowout for short hair: 20 MAD, 30 MAD for long hair, etc. Prices are displayed.
The beach—my cousin drove my daughter and me to Bouznika Beach.
It’s not for everyone!!!
Just California-style houses with guards... and gated community entrances. You have to arrive in a clean, recent car, I suppose.
The beach wasn’t overcrowded and was peaceful—no one bothering us. Lots of Moroccan women in their fifties in bikinis alongside others in burkinis... but it’s a wealthy, guarded beach... no Europeans or foreigners.
Afterward, we ate not far from there.
You choose your meat, it’s weighed and cooked... then you sit down and are served!
The place was nice, close to the beach... I loved the cooking smells. Don’t hesitate to pack up any leftovers (if they look presentable) in a plastic bag to give to those who have nothing.
That’s Rabat for you.
To be continued—I’m waiting for photos taken by my daughter.
A.
Personally, I play the lottery every week!!! just in case one day they decide to sell...
because they’ll never sell to a non-Moroccan! Like many places in Meknes.
No invaders here!
In this part of the medina, we went around in djellabas and covered with a shawl.
Best,
Personally, I play the lottery every week!!! just in case one day they decide to part with it....
because they’ll never sell to a non-Moroccan! Like many places in Meknes.
No invaders here!
In this part of the medina, we went there wearing djellabas and covered with a shawl.
Best,
y
A.
I should’ve played the lottery too to keep my parents’ farm... because it was bought by real estate dealers who resold it to Turks.... who turned it into 4 apartments just to make a profit. We’re being invaded by foreigners 😉 who are as strong as Turks. But there’s nothing pleasant left in these villages.
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
This is often the case when those who have money don’t mean well, and those who care about doing good don’t have the funds!!!
We saw it with grandpa’s house (his parents’ and grandparents’ place) that was sold—
Not torn down, and small with some land, the current owner now sees it as their family home (for them, their kids, and grandkids). It makes me happy, all the same.
That’s often the case when those who have money don’t mean well, and those who mean well don’t have the money!!!
We saw it too with grandpa’s house (his parents’ and grandparents’)—sold, not torn down, small with land. The current owner considers it his family home (for him, his kids, and grandkids). It makes me happy, all the same.
Best,
A.
That’s great!
For me, it’s not the case—the apartments are rented, and since it’s expensive, tenants change very often.
But hey, it’s just material stuff.
le mérite d'un homme réside dans sa connaissance et dans ses actes et non point dans la couleur de sa peau ou de sa religion!
Khalil Gibran
Some really beautiful restorations in the area done by the English.
Lovely restorations in the Dordogne, mainly by the English and Dutch.
The former owners sold up to move away, not necessarily to build nearby.
Young people setting up there often can’t afford to renovate the farms, so they invest in equipment instead.
Back to the topic—it’s understandable that some earthen ksars in Morocco are being abandoned, but Emeline’s uncle’s house really does make you dream.
It belonged to my grandfather, who had 7 children (still living) and 49 grandchildren... and after that, I’ve lost count!!!! It was a guest house annexed to the Pasha’s palace in the city back in the 1930s.
For me, it was my grandparents’ house where generations and lots of maids used to mix.
Inheritances, no matter the country!!!!!!!😕 It’s complicated.
And personally, I know that some of these beautiful homes have been transformed—the real zellige tiles are being replaced with patterned tiles. They don’t have a choice because to meet certain standards, changes are necessary. In this house, there were 4 huge, elongated salons
(at least 15m x 3m) with zellige tiles, stucco (sculpted plaster), and carved cedar ceilings.
Plus, on the upper floor, at least one proper bedroom with a luxury bathroom, and tons of tiny cubbyholes that were used as bedrooms. But I don’t think I know everything about this lovely home!
A big (huge) kitchen where, in my memory, at least 8 women were bustling around daily (including little maids as young as 10), far from the grandeur of the rest of the house. Plus other smaller rooms for cooking hot and cold meals.
It hasn’t changed! The kitchen is empty of any activity now, but just like in my memory.
Those who hold the know-how to restore these places are no longer simple craftsmen but "master artisans," and few people can afford their services.
There were lots of cold-water taps to allow everyone to perform their ablutions.
The hammam (shower) was always outside.
This house in 1967... I wasn’t born yet (-30 days). My grandmother is in blue, my great-aunt, and a housekeeper. (Photo taken by my French grandfather.) He had traveled to see what kind of "savage country" his daughter was going to live in. 😏
That’s all for Meknes because we’ve taken plenty of photos that take a bit longer to load.
@+
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Cela fait pas mal de temps que je parcours le forum pour glaner des idées et conseils. J'en appelle aux amoureux du Maroc « authentique » pour optimiser mon…
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
Hi there,
I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for:
meals
hotels
taxis including tips
visits...
Just an estimate, of course.
For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise?
I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel?
Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not?
Thanks a lot!
Visit to the kasbah, which is being fully renovated—50 families live there, and it’s really nice.
Back at the hostel, we cooked zucchini, ate yellow melon, and then headed to Houssein’s family palm grove and the dunes... I loved it, but then I felt unwell from the heat. I went back to the room—I was a total slug!!!
Romy went back to the dunes to move around... without a hat—"It’s ugly and uncool!!!"
Then back to the hostel... couldn’t eat anything solid! Just water, water!!! Romy had a quarter of Moroccan watermelon for dinner... you can guess the result... sick all night! Couldn’t see the sunrise because it was cloudy, and we were exhausted.
Even though we were supposed to leave the room at 1 PM, they let us stay until 6 PM and took us to the bus at exactly 7 PM—they were adorable, especially since we were both so sick.
7 PM departure for Meknes... Supratours. Houssein had booked our tickets in advance.
170 DH + 5 DH per person.
On the bus, I felt like throwing up the whole way. The rest stop smelled amazing with grilled food—I wanted some!!! But I was so scared of getting sick. Arrived at Meknes station at 3:30 AM—annoying but super fresh!!! Cold, we walked for an hour to our destination and waited for a reasonable time to show up. A café owner let us in while he was setting up.
8 AM, arrived at Hemti’s, my late dad’s sister’s place. Time to sleep.
without knowing how to take photos, the light and natural colors do it all
@+
it was hot! but they still work the fields... it's the women who do the farming.
It felt strange seeing this empty house. So many memories!!!!!! So much life, shouting, and smells of meals being prepared—because in Morocco, you eat all the time! Like many treasures, it’s unoccupied, but it’s a family heirloom... and the owner... can’t bring themselves to part with it. It’s the house of my late grandfather!
In 1967, one of the 4 open lounges
