Uzbekistan with family in the spring
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
SA
Hello,

I’ve been dreaming about the Silk Road for a long time and hope to visit Uzbekistan next year with my husband and son (11 years old). Late April to early May.

I’m planning a very classic itinerary: Tashkent - Samarkand - Bukhara - Khiva - Tashkent.

I checked the Uzbekistan Railways website, but it seems you can only book tickets three months in advance?

Otherwise, I’ve seen some people in other discussions suggest booking through Uzrailway. Are these the apps below? Are they reliable?

I really don’t want to go through a travel agency—I’d prefer to organize everything myself—and it seems the only hurdle is booking the trains. I was thinking of taking the train from Tashkent to Samarkand, then to Bukhara, and finally to Khiva, before flying back from Urgench to Tashkent with Uzbekistan Airways (is that a bad idea?🤪). What do you think?

Since we’re traveling with a child, I’d rather book and organize everything in advance to avoid any potential hassles. I tend to plan my trips much more now than I used to😏.

Would you have any great accommodation recommendations (not luxury, but not a youth hostel either)? We prefer places with charm, friendly owners, and a nice setting...

Also, I speak several languages but not Uzbek or Russian🤪... Is English widely spoken these days?

Thanks everyone 🙂
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
SM Smagghe Regular ·
Hi there,

I also did the classic train itinerary from Khiva to Tashkent.

I had chosen to land in Urgench to cross the country toward Tashkent and continue to Kyrgyzstan, but actually, we landed in Tashkent (!) and then took a domestic flight to Urgench. So if you're traveling from Tashkent to Khiva, you'll need to buy a flight ticket to get back to Tashkent (no international flights from Urgench, apparently). I flew with Uzbekistan Airways from Milan, and had no issues with this airline 🙂

I used the Uzrailways app only to check train schedules, and I usually bought my tickets the day before. I always managed to find a seat for the next day (I traveled in July). Just keep in mind that train tickets are usually bought at an office outside the station, and you’ll have to go through security checkpoints to access the platforms... So if you're buying a ticket for the same day, allow an extra hour before departure—anyway, the ticket counter won’t sell you a ticket for a train leaving within the next 15 minutes.

English is less common than Russian, but some young people speak a little and can help if you ask nicely 😉
ES Esantirulo Veteran ·
a very classic itinerary, Tashkent - Samarkand - Bukhara - Khiva - Tashkent.

I checked on the Uzbekistan Railways website, but apparently you can only book tickets three months in advance?

Nothing out of the ordinary, it's the usual timeframe— in France it's four months. So you just need to buy three months ahead, simple...

some people in other discussions suggested booking through Uzrailway. Are these the apps below? Are they reliable?

This app is the one from the national railway company.

Would you have any great accommodations to recommend (not luxury, but not a youth hostel either)? We’re looking for places with charm, friendly owners, and a nice setting...

Everyone wants that. Khiva, for example, is packed.

I speak lots of languages but not Uzbek or Russian😅... is English widely spoken enough now?

In a year’s time, no problem for basic Russian to buy things or order. Anyway, you won’t be having deep conversations with locals.
DO Domtom95 ·
Hi, I got back from Uzbekistan two weeks ago. It was really hot there (in June), with peaks at 46°C. For flights, I went with Turkish Airlines via Istanbul both ways (great airline). PARIS (Istanbul) URGENCH - KHIVA - BUKHARA - NURATA - SAMARKAND (Very comfortable Spanish TGV train) TASHKENT (Istanbul) PARIS

For hotels (all well-located in the city center): KHIVA: ORIENT STAR KHIVA (Top) BUKHARA: AN NUR (Top) NURATA: In a yurt at YANGHIKAZGAN (Meh...) SAMARKAND: EMIRKHAN (Top) TASHKENT: WYNDHAM GARDEN (Pretty classy)

For language: A lot of people (under 40) speak and understand English, and some even speak French.

For money: Euros are accepted almost everywhere in tourist cities. There are plenty of ATMs, and Visa cards are accepted.

That’s it—I’m happy to help! Dominique
Les voyages forment la jeunesse... et pas que la jeunesse !
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Thanks! That’s good to know 😊
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Thanks! 🙂

I see that for now, it’s even cheaper to fly (with Turkish Airlines) to Samarkand than to Tashkent... something to think about. I’m wondering if I could just explore the area around Samarkand without necessarily going through Tashkent?

I was also interested in spending a night or two in a yurt, but so far, I haven’t found anyone who’s really enthusiastic about it

Thanks for the accommodation recommendations—I’ll check them out! !
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
DO Domtom95 ·
It’d be a shame to miss KHIVA or BUKHARA (and TASHKENT). When you arrive in URGENCH, you’re right next to KHIVA, and BUKHARA is also a must-see. Sure, SAMARKAND is stunning and rich in heritage, but your trip would feel incomplete if you only visited that part. To get from SAMARKAND to TASHKENT, the best option is the TGV. We tried spending nights in a yurt—it was awful. The heat, terrible bedding, I ended up spending most of the night in a chair outside stargazing. In the evening, you’re swarmed by crickets after dinner and around the restrooms. The only good part was the restaurant (dinner and breakfast), which was decent and enjoyable. Safety-wise, it’s fine, and the people are friendly. (For the record, I’m heading to Bermuda at the end of August—think you’ve been there?)
Les voyages forment la jeunesse... et pas que la jeunesse !
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

Just sharing thoughts as they come to mind based on your post.

In Uzbekistan, you can take flights, and there are also cheap domestic routes. Actually, once you know where airports and train stations are located and understand the platform access procedures, you might even say that trains don’t have much of an advantage in terms of convenience. Train tickets aren’t very easy to buy; they become available quite late and are often bought in bulk by agencies, which gives the impression that trains are always fully booked. In addition to the flag carrier, Silk Avia has daily ATR flights between Tashkent and Samarkand, and by next year, the low-cost airline HomuAir might have really taken off. For international flights, Turkish Airlines is still much more convenient than Uzbekistan Airways, but be careful—if you’re heading straight to Samarkand, there are fewer flights than to Tashkent, so connections can be tighter. The other places you mentioned are very tourist-friendly cities, with more ATMs than elsewhere and a thriving tourism industry.

Michel
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Thanks, Tatra!

Yeah, what bothers me the most is getting the train tickets. I’ll need them anyway, but I’ll keep an eye on this low-cost thing—you never know.

While we’re at it, has anyone here had any experience with more "nature" destinations in the area? Nukus and Amu Darya? Seven Lakes in Tajikistan, maybe?

We really enjoy birdwatching, among other things.

Thanks! 🙂
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
TA Tatra Globetrotter ·
To give a few details:

Silkavia has a daily flight from Tashkent to Samarkand, one hour in the air, 296,000 UZS - 20 €. https://www.silk-avia.com/uz/ HumoAir is slow to actually operate flights, but if they do, it’ll be the same kind of deal.

Michel
LE Lescs Regular ·
The Seven Lakes—a really beautiful valley with a stunning setting. For birdwatching, the Arnasay Reserve on Lake Tuzkan in Uzbekistan.
CS

www.lescs.fr
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
The Seven Lakes, a very beautiful valley, stunning setting. For birdwatching, the Arnasay Reserve on Lake Tuzkan in Uzbekistan.

Thanks so much! 🙂
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
ES Esantirulo Veteran ·
Yes, what bothers me the most is getting the train tickets. I’ll need them anyway

Just to repeat: go on the official website three months before your dates. No one can promise you a ticket before the batches are put on sale by the railway company. It’s like if I want to buy a Paris-Lyon ticket now for next summer. Not possible.

Has anyone among you had experience with more "nature" destinations in the area? Nukus and the Amu Darya? Seven Lakes in Tajikistan, maybe? We really enjoy birdwatching, among other things.

I traveled through Uzbekistan by car with a Russian friend, quite extensively, from Tajikistan (via the Pamir) and returning to Europe via Nukus to Kazakhstan and then the lower Volga to Astrakhan. The Karakalpak region around Nukus is very arid, semi-desert to desert. The nature reserve of the wetlands along the Amu Darya is closer to Urgench. So that fits well with a visit to Khiva. That said, the steppes are also nature...

Logistically, a car is ideal if you want to connect several sites and get a feel for the country beyond the tourist traps. Khiva, for example, is magnificent but also packed with tourists. Actually, you appreciate the old citadel more in the evening after the shops close. With a car, you can stop in villages along the road, grab a bite in roadside eateries where the food is often cooked in a very homestyle way on stoves right next to the dining area, and people might easily ask where you’re from, etc. You get a slightly better glimpse of local life through a small lens. And there, you speak Uzbek or Russian, not English. But it’s the same everywhere—if you’re traveling around France and stop in a village or small town to eat at the local café, you speak French, not English.

Culturally, if you have a basic historical background, it’s interesting, for example, to arrive at the Amu Darya and drive across the bridge, stopping at your leisure for a view, while recalling readings about Alexander crossing the Oxus during the Macedonian expeditions in Bactria and Sogdiana. An interesting place to get a small idea of the ancient civilization of these lands, based on readings, is the rooms dedicated to the Sogdians in the Hermitage Museum in Saint Petersburg. There are usually several rooms for Central Asia. Neighboring regions oblige. There are direct flights from Saint Petersburg to Tashkent, 5 hours each way, for around 350 € round trip. That makes for a nice museum appetizer, and maybe even a visit to a local Uzbek restaurant, before heading into the field. Though Bactria and Sogdiana have been gone for a long time, and the Indo-European Sogdians have been largely replaced by Turkic nations, the existing ancient literature helps you realize how, two millennia ago, Sogdiana was connected through trade from Byzantium on one side to China on the other. Medieval and contemporary Russia served as a very natural bridge and transition, making the distant feel close. The summer before Finland closed its border, on a return trip from Russia by car, I stopped for a wash at the last gas station before the border. The guy was Uzbek.

--

A note about place names: there seems to be a strange trend in French to use anglicisms—that is, to import the English spelling of a place name (or person’s name), even though phonetically it’s different in French. For example, in the case of Nukus, English transcribes it with English "u’s"... whereas phonetically, it’s "ou" in French. And it’s with the French rendering that place names are written in books.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Thanks so much!

I get that I can’t book my train tickets just yet 🙂.

My guidebooks say you can’t rent a self-drive car (I’m thinking of trips like Nukus => Moynaq, for example). So, does anyone have a travel agency to recommend?

So far, I’ve been told about Sarbon and Islambek.

Thanks in advance!
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
We went to see the Aral Sea with this agency—it was great! A different route on the way there and another on the way back. More details here: https://www.routard.com/forums/t/trois-semaines-en-ouzbekistan-en-octobre/376659/27
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
You can find our various accommodations there.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Thanks Jean! I’ll read your travel journal right away 🙂
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
Hello again everyone,

Thanks for all your contributions!

Our tickets are booked with Turkish Airlines. We land in Samarkand and depart from there. I think I’ll save Tashkent for another time, maybe combined with the Ferghana Valley and Kyrgyzstan. But I’m getting off track.

Basically, I’m thinking of doing something like this for the trip we’re planning: - arrival in Samarkand, we land at 4 AM so we’ll probably be a bit tired. I’m planning to spend 2-3 (?) nights in Samarkand, then take the overnight train to Nukus, where an agency like Aral Sea Discovery could take us to the Aral Sea (with one night there); - return to Nukus and head to Khiva, stopping by the old fortresses; (maybe a detour through the Kyzyl Kum? A Bactrian camel ride? I think my son would love it, but I haven’t met anyone who *loved* Yangigazgan and the yurts 🤪) - 2-3 (?) nights in Khiva - Khiva to Bukhara (private transfer?) - 2-3 (?) nights in Bukhara - Afrosiyob from Bukhara to Samarkand - final nights in Samarkand

The number of nights in each place is still rough 🤪

I know I’m pretty early—some hotels haven’t even opened bookings for this time next year—but I find that researching and planning the trip is part of the fun of traveling 🙂

Thanks in advance for your tips and thoughts 🙂.
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
I devoured your travel journal! Thanks 🙂. I have a little question—I’ll send you a private message if that’s okay.

Have a great day !
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.
JE Jeeaan Globetrotter ·
I just replied to you in private. Have a great day.
SA Sawaddeekha Veteran ·
I just replied to you in private. Have a nice day.

Thanks! I managed to reply to you, which wasn’t possible this morning—probably a "bug".

Have a great day! 🙂
"If you look like your passport photo, then in all probability you need the journey" - Earl Wilson.

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