Partir au Costa Rica avec une agence spécialisée ou par ses propres moyens
by Gabiluis
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour, je suis déjà allée à deux reprises au Costa Rica et je voulais y emmener une amie pour 2 semaines. Il s'avère que cette copine à des attentes plus pointues que moi étant biologiste de formation. Et donc, je me suis dirigée vers Escursia qui organise des séjours/circuits à theme. Mais c'est très cher. Donc, j'aimerais savoir si nous allons sur place par nos propres moyens, pourrions nous trouver aux différents lodges où nous logerons des guides ayant un bonne base pour satisfaire sa curiosité de scientifique tant sur la faune que la flore ? Voilà, notre question. Nous voulons aller entre autres, à Santa Elena, Arenal, Cerro de la Muerte (Lodge Savegre ou Palaiso del Quetzal), Corcovado. Merci à vous, :)
Bonjour,
Je ne sais pas si ça répond à votre question mais vous pourriez vous assurer avant de réserver d'obtenir les services d'un guide biologiste. C'est une formation certifiée au Costa Rica.
Un commentaire par rapport à l'agence de voyage, dans la description du circuit Voyage Naturaliste, ils écrivent que vous aurez l'occasion d'observer une Harpie Féroce dans le Corcovado, c'est un rapace assez rare donc ils s'avancent un petit peu je crois :-)
Si vous organisez vous même le voyage, dans le secteur de Monteverde, je vous conseille de passer la nuit dans les stations du parc Bosque Eterno de Los Ninos. Là vous pouvez louer les services d'un guide c'est très pro.
Il existe aussi une dizaine de parcs privés qui s'adressent à une clientèle exigeante et que vous pourriez pouvoir trouver dans le Lonely Planet, par exemple Rara Avis
Autre truc important: faites des excursions nocturnes (interdites au parc du Corcovado) car la majorité des amphibiens insectes et reptiles sont actifs la nuit. Si un circuit ne vous propose pas ce type d'excursion ce n'est pas vraiment à conseiller.
Et voilà
Je ne sais pas si ça répond à votre question mais vous pourriez vous assurer avant de réserver d'obtenir les services d'un guide biologiste. C'est une formation certifiée au Costa Rica.
Un commentaire par rapport à l'agence de voyage, dans la description du circuit Voyage Naturaliste, ils écrivent que vous aurez l'occasion d'observer une Harpie Féroce dans le Corcovado, c'est un rapace assez rare donc ils s'avancent un petit peu je crois :-)
Si vous organisez vous même le voyage, dans le secteur de Monteverde, je vous conseille de passer la nuit dans les stations du parc Bosque Eterno de Los Ninos. Là vous pouvez louer les services d'un guide c'est très pro.
Il existe aussi une dizaine de parcs privés qui s'adressent à une clientèle exigeante et que vous pourriez pouvoir trouver dans le Lonely Planet, par exemple Rara Avis
Autre truc important: faites des excursions nocturnes (interdites au parc du Corcovado) car la majorité des amphibiens insectes et reptiles sont actifs la nuit. Si un circuit ne vous propose pas ce type d'excursion ce n'est pas vraiment à conseiller.
Et voilà
Bonjour ,
Pour quoi ne pas opter pour aller dans une agence de voyage et monter vous même votre circuit . celle-ci pourrais vous assurer qu'un guide biologiste vous suivent tout au long de votre périple . c'est d’ailleurs ce que j'ai vais quand j'y suis été . Pour la différence de prix je n'ai vraiment pas regretter . D’ailleurs une fois en foret (ou jungle) un bon guide fais toute la différence . J'ai rencontrer beaucoup de groupe qui fessais le même circuit et qui n'avais vu que très peu de faune . pour nous c'étais l'opposé . j'ai même permis a une petite famille française de nous accompagner et de profiter l'espace d'une journée de notre guide . il on trouvé que cette journée avais été la nuit et le jours avec leur périple jusqu’à présent .
Faite attention au guide local pris sur place a deux reprise on m'as imposer un guide . j'étais donc accompagner de notre guide attitré et du guide locale et je ne peu te dire le nombre de connerie que celui débitais .
S'aviez vous que le Costa rica étais initialement au milieu du super continent et que c'Est pour ça qu'une fois séparer celui-ci a hérité d'autant de bio diversité et de faune . ( la preuve : on retrouve le jaguar , l’eucalyptus et le café dans le même pays 😕 ) bref si vous aimer ce genre de fable je crois qu'un bon guide local peu faire le boulot ! 😄
autre petite anecdote . ce même guide nous montre une fleur qui pousse en spiral ( j'ai oublier le nom ) il nous mentionne que celle-ci est l'exemple parfait du concepts de Pythagore et que ses feuille pousse de façon exact au millimétré prêt et en angle. Notre guide n'as rien dis mais j'ai compris que en temps que botaniste il trouvais que le monsieur y allais fort . Plus tard il nous présente une fleur miniature et nous dis que c'est la plus petite orchidée au monde . J'ai vu notre guide virée pourpre et une belle discutions espagnol s'en ai suivis . Je ne suis pas expert de la langue mais j'ai crus reconnaître quelques noms peu recommandable sortir de la bouche de notre guide . Notre ami local a terminer la randonner 50 pied en avant de nous et n'as plus dis un mot durant les 20 min restante de la visite .
Bref je ne dis pas qu'il son tous comme ça mais vous avez des chance de tomber sur ce genre de pingouin qui vis que pour son pourboire . 😏
Pour quoi ne pas opter pour aller dans une agence de voyage et monter vous même votre circuit . celle-ci pourrais vous assurer qu'un guide biologiste vous suivent tout au long de votre périple . c'est d’ailleurs ce que j'ai vais quand j'y suis été . Pour la différence de prix je n'ai vraiment pas regretter . D’ailleurs une fois en foret (ou jungle) un bon guide fais toute la différence . J'ai rencontrer beaucoup de groupe qui fessais le même circuit et qui n'avais vu que très peu de faune . pour nous c'étais l'opposé . j'ai même permis a une petite famille française de nous accompagner et de profiter l'espace d'une journée de notre guide . il on trouvé que cette journée avais été la nuit et le jours avec leur périple jusqu’à présent .
Faite attention au guide local pris sur place a deux reprise on m'as imposer un guide . j'étais donc accompagner de notre guide attitré et du guide locale et je ne peu te dire le nombre de connerie que celui débitais .
S'aviez vous que le Costa rica étais initialement au milieu du super continent et que c'Est pour ça qu'une fois séparer celui-ci a hérité d'autant de bio diversité et de faune . ( la preuve : on retrouve le jaguar , l’eucalyptus et le café dans le même pays 😕 ) bref si vous aimer ce genre de fable je crois qu'un bon guide local peu faire le boulot ! 😄
autre petite anecdote . ce même guide nous montre une fleur qui pousse en spiral ( j'ai oublier le nom ) il nous mentionne que celle-ci est l'exemple parfait du concepts de Pythagore et que ses feuille pousse de façon exact au millimétré prêt et en angle. Notre guide n'as rien dis mais j'ai compris que en temps que botaniste il trouvais que le monsieur y allais fort . Plus tard il nous présente une fleur miniature et nous dis que c'est la plus petite orchidée au monde . J'ai vu notre guide virée pourpre et une belle discutions espagnol s'en ai suivis . Je ne suis pas expert de la langue mais j'ai crus reconnaître quelques noms peu recommandable sortir de la bouche de notre guide . Notre ami local a terminer la randonner 50 pied en avant de nous et n'as plus dis un mot durant les 20 min restante de la visite .
Bref je ne dis pas qu'il son tous comme ça mais vous avez des chance de tomber sur ce genre de pingouin qui vis que pour son pourboire . 😏
Bonjour, Françoise
Tout à fait d'accord avec Patopersil pour vous conseiller Rara Avis : réserve privée de 1 000 ha créée par un biologiste américain dans les années 80 ; à une quinzaine de kms d'Horquetas, on y monte à cheval ou dans la remorque d'un tracteur, vue la difficulté d'accès du lieu. Pour la recherche du quetzal, je vous recommande Eddy Serrano, le propriétaire du Mirador des Quetzals (et en fait le frère du proprio du Paraiso del quetzal que vous citez) : son fils a une formation de biologiste et est très efficace pour trouver cet oiseau magnifique (entre autres, il imite à s'y méprendre le chant du quetzal mâle). Site : miradorquetzalescr.com Enfin, pour le Corcovado, je vous conseille la lecture d'un article de notre blog franco-costaricain qui s'appelle "Alfredo, le rocker du Corcovado" : mandaté par le gouvernement costaricain, il protège 45 ha de la forêt primaire collés contre le Parc national ; il n'est pas guide mais connait parfaitement le milieu où il vit depuis 1986. Passer quelques jours avec lui, au coeur de la forêt, est une expérience inoubliable. Bienvenue dans ce pays qui est aussi un peu le mien !
Tout à fait d'accord avec Patopersil pour vous conseiller Rara Avis : réserve privée de 1 000 ha créée par un biologiste américain dans les années 80 ; à une quinzaine de kms d'Horquetas, on y monte à cheval ou dans la remorque d'un tracteur, vue la difficulté d'accès du lieu. Pour la recherche du quetzal, je vous recommande Eddy Serrano, le propriétaire du Mirador des Quetzals (et en fait le frère du proprio du Paraiso del quetzal que vous citez) : son fils a une formation de biologiste et est très efficace pour trouver cet oiseau magnifique (entre autres, il imite à s'y méprendre le chant du quetzal mâle). Site : miradorquetzalescr.com Enfin, pour le Corcovado, je vous conseille la lecture d'un article de notre blog franco-costaricain qui s'appelle "Alfredo, le rocker du Corcovado" : mandaté par le gouvernement costaricain, il protège 45 ha de la forêt primaire collés contre le Parc national ; il n'est pas guide mais connait parfaitement le milieu où il vit depuis 1986. Passer quelques jours avec lui, au coeur de la forêt, est une expérience inoubliable. Bienvenue dans ce pays qui est aussi un peu le mien !
"Etre est plus indispensable qu'avoir. Le rêve, c'est d'avoir de quoi être." Frédéric Dard (San Antonio)
Merci à tous deux. Oui, je connais une agence qui travaille avec des locaux et peut organiser notre voyage selon mes destinations. Je dois juste m'informer pour savoir si je peux juste me déplacer via le service de car privé qui relie des 'spots' ou des lodges entre eux, car je n'ai pas envie de devoir conduire. En tous les cas, merci de vos réponses.
Merci à tous deux. Oui, je connais une agence qui travaille avec des locaux et peut organiser notre voyage selon mes destinations. Je dois juste m'informer pour savoir si je peux juste me déplacer via le service de car privé qui relie des 'spots' ou des lodges entre eux, car je n'ai pas envie de devoir conduire. En tous les cas, merci de vos réponses.
Vérifier la possibilité que le guide conduise et que l'agence qui l'emploie fournisse le véhicule . Pour ma part au canada la différence de prix étais tellement mineur que nous avions opté pour cette option . Le guide nous suivais et il fessais office de chauffeur .
Bonne journée
Vérifier la possibilité que le guide conduise et que l'agence qui l'emploie fournisse le véhicule . Pour ma part au canada la différence de prix étais tellement mineur que nous avions opté pour cette option . Le guide nous suivais et il fessais office de chauffeur .
Bonne journée
Me voilà quelque peu dépitée car l'agence que j'ai contactée me propose un transport individualise et ça me couterait 300 euros par jour. Je leur demandais de m'organiser avec style 'voucher' mes trajets d'une ville à l'autre. Avec transports publics et privés. Mais c'est un refus net. C'est curieux car j'ai pu voyage ainsi au Pérou, en Turquie. Mais ici au Costa Rica, ça ne semble pas être la formule habituelle. Je vais donc revoir mes reservations d'hôtel pour voir s'ils sont accessibles facilement. Merci pour vos conseils
Salut ,
Cela fonctionne dans les pays ou les agence on plusieurs guide sur le pouce. au Costa rica ce que j'ai crus comprendre les guide son beaucoup indépendant et fonctionne a contrat . biens sur il sont libre d'accepter ou refuser . j'imagine qu'un contrat qui stipule que celui=ci ce déplace en bus (et devras payé ses transport) n’intéresse aucun d'entre eux . Par contre 300 euro par jour je trouve la facture un peu salé . ils on pesé très fort sur le crayon. Je suis presque sur que ce n'est pas le prix usuel et ce n'est pas ce que j'ai payer . faite jouer la concurrence ou faite travailler une de vos agence en France .
Bonne continuité ! 😉
Bonne continuité ! 😉
Bonjour, Françoise
Tout à fait d'accord avec Patopersil pour vous conseiller Rara Avis : réserve privée de 1 000 ha créée par un biologiste américain dans les années 80 ;
Pour autant que je sache, et j'y passe assez souvent (!), Rara Avis a fermé ses portes depuis quelque temps.
Tout à fait d'accord avec Patopersil pour vous conseiller Rara Avis : réserve privée de 1 000 ha créée par un biologiste américain dans les années 80 ;
Pour autant que je sache, et j'y passe assez souvent (!), Rara Avis a fermé ses portes depuis quelque temps.
Santo Domingo de Heredia - Costa Rica - GPS lat. 09º58'40.1" long. 84º5'35.6"
Bonjour,
Effectivement, moi aussi je trouve que 300€ par jour, c'est fort de café ! 🏴☠️
Je viens de réserver mes billets d'avion pour un départ fin mars 2018 et après avoir vu un peu tous les avis, nous allons nous déplacer en utilisant les bus, et quand il le faudra une voiture avec chauffeur/taxi au coup par coup, et prendre aussi des excursions organisées sur place dans les agences locales. C'est comme ça que je procède d'habitude, sauf en Inde ou les deux fois j'ai loué une voiture avec chauffeur, car prix vraiment dérisoires.
Pas envie de louer une voiture et conduire, trop d'impondérables possibles (détérioration, vol, accident, panne mécanique), et ça n'arrive pas qu'aux autres... 😊
Quasiment personne ne vient conter ses mésaventures, car on a plus envie de faire un retour positif de ses vacances que de dire qu'il pleuvait tout le temps et que la voiture est tombé en panne. 😉
Le temps fuit sans retour.
Bonjour,
Je pars dans qq jours au Costa Rica avec mes 3 ados. Je ne suis pas fan de conduite et suis totalement d'accord avec vous sur les risques et déboires possibles ! Je vais privilégier les transports publics pour les trajets desservis. Malheureusement certains spots semblent peu ou pas desservis, est-il commun de prendre un chauffeur pour un trajet de ville à ville, ou pour quelques jours ? Avez-vous une idée des tarifs à la journée ? avez-vous des noms d'agences locales à partager ? sinon je verrai avec les hôtels une fois sur place.
Merci
Bonjour Sandrine, comme j'ai fait pas mal de recherches pour me déplacer au Costa Rica, hormis les bus locaux publics, il y a plusieurs agences de 'shuttle' comme par exemple Interbus et gray line tours qui propose leurs services. Par ailleurs, pour d'autres spots, il y a parfois des agences locales qui organisent une journée à tel ou tel endroit. J'ai retenu Creo Travel agence recommandée par Lonely Planet. Bonne chance
Merci ! Interbus revient très cher pour 4 adultes/ados, je vais voir ce que donne Gray line tours et Creo Travel. Si vous avez d'autres infos "pratiques/logistiques" je suis preneuse. Je me demandais si le parc Tortuguero valait le détour, apparemment la ponte des tortues est moins "touristique" à Playa Samara (et surtout l'endroit est moins excentré). Un avis sur la question ?
Bonjour,
Gabiluis vous a répondu pour les bus. Pour ma part, je réserverai tout cela sur place.
Pour ce qui est des véhicules avec chauffeur ou des taxis pour faire un trajet de point à point faute de bus, ou parce que c'est plus pratique, là aussi je pense que sur place vous n'aurez pas de mal à trouver, entre votre hébergement, les agences de voyage ou les transporteurs.
C'est l'avantage de ces pays très touristiques.😎
Le seul conseil pratique, c'est qu'une fois arrivé à votre point de chute, occupez-vous en premier lieu du moyen de transport pour votre étape suivante. Ensuite, vous êtes tranquille et pouvez profiter sereinement des lieux 🙂
Bon voyage.
Le temps fuit sans retour.
Bonjour, Sandrine
Pour préparer un trajet en bus public, vous pouvez utiliser le site dédié : www.horariodebuses.com Il contient notamment les plans des villes avec la localisation des stations de bus (qui sont parfois un peu difficiles à trouver). Vous pouvez confronter les infos trouvées à celles du site officiel du tourisme costaricain : www.visitcostarica.com/ict/paginas/home.asp Il donne des renseignements concernant les horaires, les prix, les stations. Précaution : si le temps entre deux correspondances vous semble un peu court (plus ou moins un quart d'heure), prenez le bus précédent. Au CR, les bus publics vont pratiquement partout : j'en ai même pris un qui va jusqu'à la communauté indigène du village de Bambù, dans la Talamanca, c'est dire... Au pire, il y aura toujours quelqu'un pour vous emmener où vous voulez pour un ou deux "rojos" (1 000/2 000 colones). Si vous souhaitez voir des "arribadas" de tortues en Août, vous avez le choix : - les tortues vertes : Tortuguero. - les tortues noires : plages Cabuyal, Minas et Nombre de Jesus le bord du Pacifique. - les tortues de Ridley : plages Nancite et, surtout, Ostional, sur le Pacifique. A propos du Parc de Tortuguero : je ne le trouve pas exceptionnel et préfère de beaucoup une balade en barques à rames sur les canaux au lever du jour ; ça, c'est "magique" ! Besoin d'autres infos pour préparer votre voyage ? notre blog franco-costaricain peut vous aider. Bienvenue dans ce pays qui est aussi un peu le mien !
Pour préparer un trajet en bus public, vous pouvez utiliser le site dédié : www.horariodebuses.com Il contient notamment les plans des villes avec la localisation des stations de bus (qui sont parfois un peu difficiles à trouver). Vous pouvez confronter les infos trouvées à celles du site officiel du tourisme costaricain : www.visitcostarica.com/ict/paginas/home.asp Il donne des renseignements concernant les horaires, les prix, les stations. Précaution : si le temps entre deux correspondances vous semble un peu court (plus ou moins un quart d'heure), prenez le bus précédent. Au CR, les bus publics vont pratiquement partout : j'en ai même pris un qui va jusqu'à la communauté indigène du village de Bambù, dans la Talamanca, c'est dire... Au pire, il y aura toujours quelqu'un pour vous emmener où vous voulez pour un ou deux "rojos" (1 000/2 000 colones). Si vous souhaitez voir des "arribadas" de tortues en Août, vous avez le choix : - les tortues vertes : Tortuguero. - les tortues noires : plages Cabuyal, Minas et Nombre de Jesus le bord du Pacifique. - les tortues de Ridley : plages Nancite et, surtout, Ostional, sur le Pacifique. A propos du Parc de Tortuguero : je ne le trouve pas exceptionnel et préfère de beaucoup une balade en barques à rames sur les canaux au lever du jour ; ça, c'est "magique" ! Besoin d'autres infos pour préparer votre voyage ? notre blog franco-costaricain peut vous aider. Bienvenue dans ce pays qui est aussi un peu le mien !
"Etre est plus indispensable qu'avoir. Le rêve, c'est d'avoir de quoi être." Frédéric Dard (San Antonio)
Bonjour, Adriaan
Je ne vous ai pas répondu tout de suite, bien que votre info m'ait beaucoup surpris, parce que je voulais la vérifier. Je suis donc allé sur le site de Rara Avis et me suis fait passer pour un client potentiel tout en mentionnant votre affirmation. Voici ce que vient de me répondre la chargée des réservations : "no no hemos cerrado, únicamente hemos hecho algunas modificaciones para ajustarnos pues ahora vienen menos personas, solo operamos el Waterfall Lodge, y organizamos las fechas de las reservaciones para atender nuestros visitantes los mejor que podemos, pero definitivamente no estamos cerrados. Muchas gracias por preguntarnos, esta información que mencionas nos ha hecho mucho daño. Saludos Viviana" Ce qu'il faut en retenir selon moi : dorénavant, ils reçoivent moins de touristes (j'avais constaté ce changement la dernière fois que j'y suis monté, par rapport à ma 1ère fois en 2010 : beaucoup d'étudiants nord-américains qui y faisaient des expériences vues nulle part ailleurs, seulement cinq touristes) ; ils n'ont conservé qu'un lieu d'hébergement. La raison de ce changement ? le fondateur de Rara Avis est un universitaire biologiste, pas quelqu'un lié au milieu du tourisme ; après les années 2000 où ils ont reçu une quantité de touristes pour vulgariser leurs découvertes, ils ont voulu se recentrer sur leur vraie raison d'être : étudier la flore et la faune locales, c'est ce qui fait tout l'intérêt d'y aller. J'espère que vous, Adriaan, vous partagez cette conviction avec moi. Au passage, je ne peux m'empêcher de penser que ceux qui sont à l'origine de cette rumeur de fermeture sont les requins du tourisme costaricain qui se targuent de "traiter 8 000 touristes à l'année" sur un autre forum bien connu...
Je ne vous ai pas répondu tout de suite, bien que votre info m'ait beaucoup surpris, parce que je voulais la vérifier. Je suis donc allé sur le site de Rara Avis et me suis fait passer pour un client potentiel tout en mentionnant votre affirmation. Voici ce que vient de me répondre la chargée des réservations : "no no hemos cerrado, únicamente hemos hecho algunas modificaciones para ajustarnos pues ahora vienen menos personas, solo operamos el Waterfall Lodge, y organizamos las fechas de las reservaciones para atender nuestros visitantes los mejor que podemos, pero definitivamente no estamos cerrados. Muchas gracias por preguntarnos, esta información que mencionas nos ha hecho mucho daño. Saludos Viviana" Ce qu'il faut en retenir selon moi : dorénavant, ils reçoivent moins de touristes (j'avais constaté ce changement la dernière fois que j'y suis monté, par rapport à ma 1ère fois en 2010 : beaucoup d'étudiants nord-américains qui y faisaient des expériences vues nulle part ailleurs, seulement cinq touristes) ; ils n'ont conservé qu'un lieu d'hébergement. La raison de ce changement ? le fondateur de Rara Avis est un universitaire biologiste, pas quelqu'un lié au milieu du tourisme ; après les années 2000 où ils ont reçu une quantité de touristes pour vulgariser leurs découvertes, ils ont voulu se recentrer sur leur vraie raison d'être : étudier la flore et la faune locales, c'est ce qui fait tout l'intérêt d'y aller. J'espère que vous, Adriaan, vous partagez cette conviction avec moi. Au passage, je ne peux m'empêcher de penser que ceux qui sont à l'origine de cette rumeur de fermeture sont les requins du tourisme costaricain qui se targuent de "traiter 8 000 touristes à l'année" sur un autre forum bien connu...
"Etre est plus indispensable qu'avoir. Le rêve, c'est d'avoir de quoi être." Frédéric Dard (San Antonio)
[...] Je suis donc allé sur le site de Rara Avis et me suis fait passer pour un client potentiel tout en mentionnant votre affirmation. Voici ce que vient de me répondre la chargée des réservations :
"no no hemos cerrado, únicamente hemos hecho algunas modificaciones para ajustarnos pues ahora vienen menos personas, solo operamos el Waterfall Lodge, y organizamos las fechas de las reservaciones para atender nuestros visitantes los mejor que podemos, pero definitivamente no estamos cerrados.
Muchas gracias por preguntarnos, esta información que mencionas nos ha hecho mucho daño.
Saludos
Viviana"
[...] le fondateur de Rara Avis est un universitaire biologiste, pas quelqu'un lié au milieu du tourisme ; [...] ils ont voulu se recentrer sur leur vraie raison d'être : étudier la flore et la faune locales, c'est ce qui fait tout l'intérêt d'y aller. J'espère que vous, Adriaan, vous partagez cette conviction avec moi.
[...].
Je connais trop bien la situation de Rara-Avis, que j'ai visité avec ma famille plusieurs fois dans les dernières années. Cette année, en passant par Horquetas où "était" l'acceuil et départ pour les 17 km jusqu'aux "cabinas" (je l'ai fait plusieurs fois à pied - presqu'impossibles les 3 derniers km ), l'endroit est totalement abandonné. Les structures en montagne n'ont vu entretien depuis Dieu saît combien d'années. L'endroit est superbe, sans aucune doute. Pour qq sans prétentions et prêt à marcher la distance avec son sac-à-dos, n'hesitez pas. C'est loin d´ un tourisme de masse. Vous devrez même oublier votre iPhone! C'est dommage.
Je connais trop bien la situation de Rara-Avis, que j'ai visité avec ma famille plusieurs fois dans les dernières années. Cette année, en passant par Horquetas où "était" l'acceuil et départ pour les 17 km jusqu'aux "cabinas" (je l'ai fait plusieurs fois à pied - presqu'impossibles les 3 derniers km ), l'endroit est totalement abandonné. Les structures en montagne n'ont vu entretien depuis Dieu saît combien d'années. L'endroit est superbe, sans aucune doute. Pour qq sans prétentions et prêt à marcher la distance avec son sac-à-dos, n'hesitez pas. C'est loin d´ un tourisme de masse. Vous devrez même oublier votre iPhone! C'est dommage.
Santo Domingo de Heredia - Costa Rica - GPS lat. 09º58'40.1" long. 84º5'35.6"
Une autre suggestion: La Selva.
http://www.ots.ac.cr
Bonjour Pierre,
Merci pour votre réponse sur les Tortues, mais je n'ai pas réussi à localiser les différents endroits cités. Pouvez-vous me donner une "grande" ville à proximité de chacune de ces plages ?
Si vous souhaitez voir des "arribadas" de tortues en Août, vous avez le choix : - les tortues vertes : Tortuguero. - les tortues noires : plages Cabuyal, Minas et Nombre de Jesus le bord du Pacifique. - les tortues de Ridley : plages Nancite et, surtout, Ostional, sur le Pacifique.
Merci encore ! Sandrine
Merci pour votre réponse sur les Tortues, mais je n'ai pas réussi à localiser les différents endroits cités. Pouvez-vous me donner une "grande" ville à proximité de chacune de ces plages ?
Si vous souhaitez voir des "arribadas" de tortues en Août, vous avez le choix : - les tortues vertes : Tortuguero. - les tortues noires : plages Cabuyal, Minas et Nombre de Jesus le bord du Pacifique. - les tortues de Ridley : plages Nancite et, surtout, Ostional, sur le Pacifique.
Merci encore ! Sandrine
Bonjour, Sandrine
Plages Cabuyal et Nantie : il n'y a pas de "ville" à proximité ; elle se trouve entre les deux parties du PN Santa Rosa et au N-E de l'aéroport Daniel Oduber (Liberia). Plages Minas et Nombre de Jesus : au Nord de Tamarindo et au Sud de Brasilito. Lpage Ostional : à côté du village El Ostional ; à côté de Nosara. Un dernier petit conseil : quand vous n'arrivez pas à localiser un endroit, aller sur le site Airbnb ; taper le lieu voulu, il apparaît sur une carte où on peut zoomer. Bonne suite de préparation !
Plages Cabuyal et Nantie : il n'y a pas de "ville" à proximité ; elle se trouve entre les deux parties du PN Santa Rosa et au N-E de l'aéroport Daniel Oduber (Liberia). Plages Minas et Nombre de Jesus : au Nord de Tamarindo et au Sud de Brasilito. Lpage Ostional : à côté du village El Ostional ; à côté de Nosara. Un dernier petit conseil : quand vous n'arrivez pas à localiser un endroit, aller sur le site Airbnb ; taper le lieu voulu, il apparaît sur une carte où on peut zoomer. Bonne suite de préparation !
"Etre est plus indispensable qu'avoir. Le rêve, c'est d'avoir de quoi être." Frédéric Dard (San Antonio)
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Hi there,
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it... Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)? According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later). Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Thanks for your tips!
I’m heading to Guatemala for 18 days in August with my 11-year-old and I’m wondering if renting a car makes sense—not so much because of the road conditions, but because I’d like to spend about 3 days in Livingston. Since it’s only accessible by boat, I’d have to leave the car in Río Dulce. Maybe possible at a hotel, but that means paying for a rental for 3 days without using it... Same issue for Semuc Champey—it’s only reachable by 4x4, and I won’t be renting that type of vehicle.
Also, has anyone traveled from Panajachel (Lake Atitlán) to Cobán (to explore the caves and waterfalls in the area)? According to Google Maps, it’s a 6-hour, 44-minute drive... so whether by car or minibus, it’s *really* long (same for Cobán-Flores later). Are there any interesting stops along the way where I could spend a night? And if I’m not renting a car, is it possible to take two private shuttles for this route?
Thanks for your tips!
Hello,
We're planning 15 days in Chiapas. We already spent 3 weeks in the Yucatán 4 years ago.
What would you recommend in Chiapas? Our idea is to rent a car so we can move around freely—there’ll be two of us.
Thanks for your tips on great places to stay, restaurants, and sights to visit!
Hi there,
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap. It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!" The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
In 2024, I spent two months solo in El Salvador. While I’m still putting together my travel journal on Myatlas, here’s a quick recap. It’s a country where it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency.
SAFETY:
For a long time, the country was considered one of the most dangerous in the world because of the "maras," ultra-violent gangs. But today, I think it’s the safest country in Latin America.
BUDGET:
For French tourists, the country is very affordable, especially in the less touristy regions.
TRANSPORT:
I got around everywhere by local bus.
Local buses go everywhere and run all the time. For me, it’s the best way to travel in El Salvador—you’re fully immersed, moving at the pace of the locals, and interacting with Salvadorans who are eager to connect with travelers.
I saw all sorts of things on those buses—I’ve got dozens of stories!
PEOPLE:
I’m used to traveling all over Latin America, and for me, Salvadorans are the warmest and most welcoming. Everywhere you go, people say, "Welcome to El Salvador!" The connections and long conversations with locals were my favorite part of the trip.
TOURIST CROWDS:
The country isn’t well-known among European tourists, but Americans and Quebecers visit. Overall, it’s still pretty low-key, especially compared to other Central American countries. That said, tourism has been growing since security improved significantly.
WHAT I LOVED ❤️
-Suchitoto, one of the most beautiful colonial towns in Central America.
-The volcanoes—there are so many! Santa Ana is the most touristy.
-The lakes—also plentiful. Coatepeque is the most famous, but there are lots of lagoons too.
-The mountainous regions, where the cooler weather is a nice break: La Palma, Perquín, Cerro El Pital, etc.
-The charming villages along the Ruta de las Flores, especially Nahuizalco with its nighttime atmosphere and food stalls. Juayúa and others are great too.
-The conversations with people who lived through the horrors of the civil war in Perquín and Cinquera. I met one of them by chance while waiting for a bus.
For surfers, El Salvador is a paradise, with world-famous beaches.
WHAT I LIKED LESS:
I loved almost everything, but I found the archaeological sites a bit underwhelming. Joyabaj de Cerén is billed as the "Pompeii of El Salvador," which is a stretch (though it *is* a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its historical value).
Hi there,
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this! Philippe
I’ve been reading some really conflicting info about the best ways and advantages of exchanging euros for Mexican pesos. For those with recent experience, could you shed some light? Is exchanging at the airport currency exchange offices more worthwhile? Other advice suggests that withdrawing with an international bank card is the best option. Thanks for sharing your experiences on this! Philippe
Hi,
We’re planning a trip to Mexico this summer (loop through Yucatan, Quintana Roo, Campeche). We’re thinking of using public transport or possibly renting a car. The French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website has a lot of recommendations. Are these states safe for solo travelers? Are there any precautions we should take or areas to avoid?
Thanks,
Hi everyone, I’m planning to go to Panama in December and I’d like to know which city is closest to the Panama-Costa Rica border—and just across the border in Costa Rica—to buy the cheapest bus ticket? Just so I have proof of onward travel when I take my flight, thanks.
When planning a trip to Panama, you often hear about Panama City, Bocas del Toro, Boquete, or even San Blas. Yet, there’s a region that remains relatively under the radar in travel guides: the Arco Seco.
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Looking forward to exchanging tips with you!
Joëlle
Located on the Pacific coast, between the provinces of Panamá Oeste, Coclé, Herrera, and Los Santos, the Arco Seco enjoys a generally drier climate than the rest of the country. Even during the rainy season, you’ll often find more sunshine here than in other parts of Panama.
For travelers who love alternating between beaches, nature, hikes, and local discoveries, this region is definitely worth a detour.
A few ideas for visits:
• The beaches of La Ensenada, El Palmar, Punta Barco, and Coronado
• Surfing at El Palmar, one of the most well-known spots on the Pacific coast
• Kitesurfing at Punta Chame, which is highly reputed!
• El Valle de Antón, nestled in an ancient volcanic crater, with its hikes, waterfalls, artisan market, and hot springs
• Various hikes offering stunning panoramas
• The waterfalls in the San Carlos and El Valle areas
• Golf at Vista Mar or Coronado
• Fishing villages where you can still buy freshly caught fish directly from local fishermen
What I particularly love about this region is that it lets you discover a more authentic and peaceful side of Panama while remaining easily accessible from Panama City.
I’ve been living in San Carlos for several years now, and I’m still discovering new places, trails, beaches, and hidden gems.
If anyone is planning a trip to this region and has questions, I’d be happy to share my favorite spots and personal recommendations.
Looking forward to exchanging tips with you!
Joëlle
Hello everyone,
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips. I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize. We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days. So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides? Thanks in advance for your valuable advice. Marilyne
I’m reaching out to tap into your knowledge and experiences, as my partner and I are heading to Guatemala and Belize for the entire month of February 2020, and we could really use some tips. I was thinking of spending 20 days in Guatemala and 10 days in Belize, especially since our flight arrives in Guatemala City and departs from Belize. We were considering hiring a driver-guide for part of our time in Guatemala. Which part do you think would be best? We’re choosing this country for all the culture and traditions it has to offer, so skipping a guide entirely would be a shame—but I can imagine it’d be tough to keep one for all 20 days. So maybe a week or ten days. What kind of budget should we plan for? And most importantly, do you have any contacts for reliable driver-guides? Thanks in advance for your valuable advice. Marilyne
Hi there! We’ve decided to head to Panama this summer and would love to do a road trip with a rental car—there are four of us, and our kids are 20 and 23. Do you have any recommendations on must-see spots and things to avoid? Any great tips for accommodation, restaurants, or activities? Thanks so much for your help
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip around Mexico and looking for the best way to get from Mazunte to San Cristóbal de Las Casas by bus.
Has anyone done this route before?
Thanks in advance!
Philippe
I’m planning a trip around Mexico and looking for the best way to get from Mazunte to San Cristóbal de Las Casas by bus.
Has anyone done this route before?
Thanks in advance!
Philippe
Hello,
We’re heading to Playa del Carmen for two weeks in August with our 4-year-old child.
We’ve seen that you can visit places like Tulum or Cozumel on your own using colectivos. For Coba, we’re hesitant to go alone because we’d like to see the cenotes and the Mayan village.
But we’d prefer to find a French-speaking agency that guarantees small-group tours, especially for Sian Ka’an.
We’d rather avoid the "mimi tours" even though they’re recommended by a lot of people and the *Guide du Routard*, based on the reviews we’ve read.
I’m interested in the agency Muuch Ximbal, which seems to offer slightly different outings. There’s also H and L Tours or Delphine Fautré’s agency (though the last two don’t list excursion prices). We also found Promomaya, but apparently, they don’t have an on-site agency.
Do you have any tips or other agencies to recommend?
We’d also like to swim with dolphins but outside of the Xcaret and Xel-Há parks. Do you know of other ways to swim with them, maybe even in the open sea???
I’ve also seen that it’s possible to swim with whale sharks—is this doable with a 4-year-old who doesn’t like putting her head underwater yet? Have any of you done it? This excursion is quite expensive, and I’d be okay with swimming with them, but just sailing on a boat without being able to see them would be disappointing.
PS: Our Spanish isn’t very good.
Thanks in advance for your replies.
hi there,
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22. We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short. So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day - Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán - Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover: Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22. Actually, I have a few questions: Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough? We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it. Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market. We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day? We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees. We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive. Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost. Thanks so much for your help! Annick
we’re traveling as a couple to Guatemala from Feb 8 to 22. We’ve realized that given the distances, it feels a bit short. So, we’ve decided to limit ourselves to:
- Antigua: 3 nights (from Feb 8 to 11), including the arrival day - Lake Atitlán: from Feb 11 to 14 – 3 nights in San Juan La Laguna, including the morning trip from Antigua to Lake Atitlán - Chichicastenango: from Feb 14 to 15 – 1 night to attend the Sunday market and visit the cemetery
We have 7 days left that we’re not sure how to organize to cover: Flores – Tikal – El Remate, then head back to Guatemala City for our flight on Feb 22. Actually, I have a few questions: Do you think the time in Antigua and at the lake is enough? We might do the Pacaya Volcano, which is accessible for beginners, and that’s it. Should we spend a bit more time at these two spots: Antigua and the lake? If so, we’d have to skip the Chichicastenango market. We’re also thinking of leaving Chichicastenango to head to Flores, then staying overnight in El Remate. Does that seem doable in one day? We’ve noted that the trips are long, and since we don’t want to rush, we’ve reduced the number of accommodations. Even though we know we won’t see everything, we don’t want to miss the must-sees. We’re also wondering if we’ve planned the route in the right direction, or if we should head straight to Tikal when we arrive. Anyway, I know this is long, but we’re a bit lost. Thanks so much for your help! Annick
Hi everyone,
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
My partner and I would like to travel to Mexico during the Christmas holidays. We’re well aware that this is a peak tourist season, but it’s the only time of year when we can take a long trip (over two weeks) due to work commitments.
We’re looking to avoid overly touristy areas and travel independently (renting a car). We want to explore Mexico’s history, take our time, and enjoy nature and the sea.
I’ve never been to Mexico before, and I’m considering the following regions (not all of them, of course): Yucatán (outside Quintana Roo), Baja California, Oaxaca, or Chiapas.
I’ve more or less ruled out Chiapas for safety reasons (even though the nature there looks amazing), and I’d love to hear your thoughts on the other regions. From experience, I know that even in highly touristy areas, you can often find quieter spots with good planning and by avoiding the main hotspots. For example, we were in Thailand last year during the same period, and aside from 2-3 places, we had a very peaceful trip—sometimes even being the only Westerners around. Would the same be true for Yucatán or Baja California?
Do you have any recommendations for nice, less touristy spots? What are your thoughts on the regions I mentioned?
Thanks so much for your help, and I hope you have a great weekend!
Hi there,
We’ve had to change our plans, so we’re heading to Guatemala from October 16 to 25, 2025 (in just 6 days 😱 😊😕), with two kids aged 8 and 10. No time difference for us.
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ?? Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough. Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day? I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times: - How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please? I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕. Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus? Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Here’s our itinerary: Day 1: Morning: Arrival in Guatemala City at 9 AM. Drive to Antigua (1-hour shuttle) / Afternoon: Stroll around Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 2: Explore Antigua / Night: Antigua Day 3: Visit the area around Antigua OR hike a volcano (Acatenango?) / Night: Antigua Day 4: Drive to Chichicastenango for the big market (how many hours?) / Afternoon: Iximche ruins? Or the hanging bridges at Atitlán Reserve? Or spend the day in Chichicastenango / Night: Panajachel Day 5: A day by boat visiting villages around the lake and checking out local crafts (which villages to pick?), Night: Panajachel Day 6: Drive to Flores with 1 stop? Should we go to Semuc Champey? (how many hours?), Night: ?? Day 7: Drive to Flores (how many hours?), Night: Flores Day 8: Yaxha (1.5-hour drive each way with a driver), Night: Flores Day 9: Day trip to Tikal, Night: Flores Day 10:: Flight from Flores to Guatemala City, then departure at 4:30 PM
About hiking a volcano, I’ve read mixed reviews. Some say it’s easy, others say it’s tough. Is there a kid-friendly hike where we could see lava from a volcano? Is it only visible at night? Do we *have* to sleep at the top and come down the next day? I’ve heard of people doing it with 2-year-olds by carrying them, and others using horses—but I guess the horses don’t go all the way up? Seeing a real volcano would be amazing! I think it’d be a memorable experience for the kids. It’d be so cool to say, "We did that as a family!" But maybe it’s way too hard and a bad idea...
I’m struggling to find reliable info on travel times: - How long is the drive from Antigua to Chichicastenango, please? I’ve read shuttles leave at 7 AM and arrive at the market by 8:30 AM, but I’ve also seen people say it’s a 4-hour trip 😕. Are the times on Google Maps reliable?
A blog mentioned visiting Chichicastenango’s market in the morning and Iximché in the afternoon. That seems like a lot of driving, especially after leaving Antigua in the morning. What should we do in the afternoon instead?
Days 6 and 7: The trip from Panajachel to Flores. Any advice on taking an overnight bus? Should we go during the day with a stop at Semuc Champey? Or fly and spend the extra day somewhere else?
Day 8: Is a full day at Yaxha too much?
Thanks so much for your help—it’s *so* valuable with such short notice! 😅 😅 😅 THANK YOU PS: If you have recommendations for private drivers, shuttle services, or any firsthand experience, I’d love to hear it!
Hi, a friend will be in Panama at an all-inclusive resort and was wondering if it's worth visiting the Canal in a single day, and also which attractions shouldn't be missed.
Is it better to choose a package deal? What's the recommended mode of transport for this trip?
Thanks
We’re a retired couple in our 70s looking to spend six weeks in Costa Rica between mid-January and mid-March 2026. We’d like to stay in comfortable bungalows (2x3 weeks) and rent a car for the entire period. We enjoy light hiking and some beach time, but we also love relaxing on a shaded veranda, reading, and unwinding. Which places would suit these preferences? We have a lot of experience with this kind of stay in the French West Indies or Indian Ocean islands but have never been to Central America. Does anyone have good tips?
Hi there, after my trip to Nicaragua in January, I’m planning to visit Honduras and El Salvador during the same journey. Can anyone tell me where to cross the border from Nicaragua to Honduras by bus? Is it doable? Safe? And most importantly, what’s a good route to take and what’s worth seeing in Honduras in a safe way?
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
Thanks for the tips!
Is it better to travel with a group (through an agency) or is solo travel no problem?
P.S.: And for El Salvador, same question—what’s a good route and what’s generally worth seeing? Is it better to start in the south (El Salvador) and then head north to Honduras before continuing to Guatemala, or...?
Thanks for the tips!
Hi there,
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency. If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t. No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto - The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul - The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán - Antigua, very touristy but beautiful - Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-deux-mois-au-pays-de-la-couleur
I spent two months alone in Guatemala this summer, without a guide or agency, and I’d love to share a quick recap of my impressions.
● First off, it’s really easy to travel without a guide or agency. If you want a guide for excursions, you can easily find one through the many agencies in Antigua or Panajachel. In Flores, there are also plenty of agencies offering multi-day jungle treks.
● I got around by shuttle for part of the "classic" and more touristy route. To step off that path, I took "camionetas" (chicken buses) or minibuses.
For me, "camionetas" are the best way to get around Guatemala. They let you travel everywhere, fully immersed, at the local pace. They run all the time and are even an adventure in themselves.
Shuttles are direct, but local buses aren’t. No matter how you travel, trips take a while because roads are often in bad shape, and in the mountains, you can’t overtake.
● As for safety, there’s nothing unusual compared to other Latin American countries. Just keep in mind it’s not Europe. As a solo woman, I try not to draw too much attention—though traveling alone already does that. Like in other countries, I was often asked where my kids and husband were, and I just gave whatever answer I felt like.
● Budget-wise, Guatemala isn’t too expensive for French tourists, but Antigua and Panajachel—two very touristy spots—are pricier.
● Guatemala is a small country but incredibly rich in culture and nature (volcanoes, mountains, beaches, etc.). You can easily spend several days (or even weeks) in each region.
● My top picks ❤️:
- The Mayan markets, especially the one in San Francisco El Alto - The Ixil Triangle: Nebaj, Chajul, Acul - The stunning landscapes around Todos Santos Cuchumatán - Antigua, very touristy but beautiful - Lake Atitlán, also touristy but gorgeous
I planned to climb Pacaya Volcano, but early in my trip, there was an earthquake in Antigua, and by the end, I wasn’t in the mood. Climbing Acatenango is more spectacular but also more challenging.
● Biggest highlights ❤️ ❤️:
- Tikal—it’s THE must-see site, an incredible mix of archaeology and nature!
- The Joyabaj Fair, which I hadn’t planned to visit but ended up spending a week at: Mayan ceremonies, equestrian parades, diverse dances, processions with Mayan priests, and especially the "palo volador"—the highlight of the festival!
● Small letdown 👎:
- Ranchitos del Quetzal, where I went hoping to spot the quetzal. I knew it wasn’t the right season, but I was still disappointed—I didn’t see any other birds either, and the hiking options were limited. It also took me a slight detour from Cobán.
If you have any questions, I’d be happy to answer them.
● If you’re interested, I kept a more detailed travel journal, and I’m working on another one just about the Joyabaj Fair:
https://www.myatlas.com/borboleta/guatemala-deux-mois-au-pays-de-la-couleur
Hi there,
We’re planning a road trip in Mexico.
Is it feasible to rent a car from Mexico City to Oaxaca? What’s the road safety like?
After that, we’d like to take a domestic flight to the Yucatán. Same question—especially about safety when visiting Palenque.
We have a child, so we don’t want to take any risks with safety.
We speak Spanish and have already lived in Nicaragua for two years.
What’s the weather like in August? We’re a bit unsure.
Thanks for your help and tips!
Marc
We’re planning a road trip in Mexico.
Is it feasible to rent a car from Mexico City to Oaxaca? What’s the road safety like?
After that, we’d like to take a domestic flight to the Yucatán. Same question—especially about safety when visiting Palenque.
We have a child, so we don’t want to take any risks with safety.
We speak Spanish and have already lived in Nicaragua for two years.
What’s the weather like in August? We’re a bit unsure.
Thanks for your help and tips!
Marc
Hi there,
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy). So, we’re leaning toward something like this: - Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city) - Puebla: 3 days - Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?) - Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours) - Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Thanks for your help!
We’re planning a 15-day family trip in February 2026 (with 3 teens). We’ll be visiting friends who live in Puebla. Initially, I was thinking of the Yucatán, but after reading up on it, I don’t think it’s the right fit for us (too crowded, too touristy). So, we’re leaning toward something like this: - Mexico City: 2 days (Teotihuacán + city) - Puebla: 3 days - Tehuacán: 2 days (to break up the trip—is this a good choice? Is there enough to do for 2 days?) - Oaxaca: 3 days (Hierve el Agua, Monte Albán, city/tours) - Pacific Coast: 4 days (snorkeling, excursions)
Does this seem balanced? We’d like to end on the coast for some relaxation, ocean time, and fun for the kids. I’ve seen lots of excursions offered along the coast but can’t decide where to stay. Puerto Escondido? Huatulco? The beaches seem better for snorkeling in Huatulco, but I’ve read mixed things, and it’s farther away. What do you think?
For transportation, is this doable by bus? I’m struggling to find a decent bus between Tehuacán and Oaxaca (overnight schedules), and I’m not sure how to get around the coast. Also, how do we handle luggage between cities? We usually rent a car.
Finally, I’d love feedback on the Pacific Coast excursions—I get the feeling some are worth it and others aren’t. Is bioluminescence really magical? Are dolphin-watching tours ethical and not too "factory-like"? (We skipped them in Quebec and just watched whales from shore.) Can you see sea turtles up close?
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone,
There’s not much info out there on Nicaragua in general, which is why I posted my questions here on the forum... but didn’t get many answers since it’s tough to find any anyway.
It’s a stunning country, but my experience was mixed.
There are areas with very few tourists (which is exactly what we were looking for), but as a result, there’s almost no way to get around (unless you walk, and even that’s not easy or always possible) and no real tourist infrastructure.
Finding info is nearly impossible—there’s practically nothing, so it’s hard to know what you’ll find in a given place, whether it’s worth taking a 12-hour bus ride across the country, only to turn around 48 hours later.
The easy and pleasant spots: Granada, Ometepe, San Juan del Sur and the Pacific beaches, León, and the Corn Islands. These are the places mentioned in guidebooks (the rest is jungle to the east, not many roads south of the lake, and no boats on the lake either—except for the Rivas-Ometepe connection). Venturing off the beaten path is really tough.
The Caribbean coast: aside from the Corn Islands (which are very touristy but not easy to reach by ferry from Bluefields), or if you want to take a flight with La Costeña, book in advance—there are often very few seats! The rest isn’t particularly satisfying, especially Pearl Lagoon, where swimming isn’t possible due to unsafe water. Don’t expect a postcard-perfect setting. But everything’s worth it if you have the time...
Buses: there are plenty, and they’re super cheap—but be warned, they stop everywhere, take forever, and are loud (though kind of charming in a vintage way). Too many buses can ruin a trip.
Lodges: affordable on a small budget, except in Managua and along the entire Caribbean coast! For example, beaches like El Tránsito (which is gorgeous) charge at least $50 or $60 per night for a basic room. Good to know.
In Matagalpa, we tried to rent a motorcycle to get around—impossible. I asked everywhere, but there was no way. So we cut our stay short because once you’ve explored Selva Negra, there’s not much else to do (an 8-hour bus ride to see a waterfall? No thanks). These might seem like small details, but they really matter when you want to enjoy where you are and discover nice spots—you end up stuck.
Bring plenty of mosquito spray + oral antihistamines: mosquitoes and bites are a *serious* nuisance. (I got over 200 bites in one go during a trip to a humid tropical forest, even though I was covered and protected.)
All in all, it’s an adventurous, exploratory trip. The people are great, and we never felt unsafe (even though some travelers have had *really* bad experiences). I thought there’d be a carnival since it was the right time of year—nothing. No dancing, not festive at all (compared to Brazil, for example, it’s the complete opposite).
We saw animals, but no toucans, for example!
For a beautiful, pristine, and well-organized trip, everyone agrees—go to Costa Rica, but be prepared to pay a lot more. Nicaragua is something else entirely. For surfers, though, it’s amazing! Personally, I love watching fish in clear, calm waters, hiking in nature, and swimming—I think I picked the wrong destination, but I’m glad I got to experience this totally wild side of Central America! :-)
Hello,
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala. Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua - Atitlán - Lanquín - Río Dulce - El Remate – Flores - Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín - Lanquín – Río Dulce - Río Dulce – El Remate - Flores – Guatemala City
Thanks for your help
Here’s our itinerary for 15 days in Guatemala. Does it seem logical in terms of distances to avoid overly long trips? If not, which stop should we cut?
- Antigua - Atitlán - Lanquín - Río Dulce - El Remate – Flores - Guatemala City
Could you help me estimate the approximate travel time for these routes by tourist bus or shuttle?
- Atitlán – Lanquín - Lanquín – Río Dulce - Río Dulce – El Remate - Flores – Guatemala City
Thanks for your help
Hi everyone,
I’m so happy 🙂 to be traveling again after 5 years without a trip. I’m heading back to Costa Rica for 18 days from December 12th to 30th with a friend. We’re doing San José-Sarapiquí (2 nights), then Sarapiquí-Tortuguero (3 nights), then from Tortuguero heading to the Cahuita and Puerto Viejo area. We’ll spend about ten days in that region, then make a 2-day stop somewhere before flying back out of San José.
From what I’ve read on this blog, Puerto Viejo seems like the "rasta," party-friendly spot, which is honestly the kind of place I tend to avoid—too touristy. I’m looking for places surrounded by beautiful nature. I’ve already spent several weeks in Drake Bay (in 2019 and 10 years before that) and loved it. My friend also wants to visit the Bri Bri.
Could you recommend some authentic spots in this southern Caribbean area? Your favorite places—whether it’s sights to see, accommodations, or even your favorite little restaurants 😛?
What’s the most authentic way to visit the Bri Bri? What’s your take on that?
And finally, what beautiful stop would you recommend before heading back to San José?
A huge thank you to everyone!
Have a great day,
Zineb
Hi everyone,
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Thanks, and have a great week.
Marie.
We’d like to do a tour to Yaxchilan and Bonampak from Palenque, but it seems there are tons of travel agencies offering this tour. We’ve also read about a lot of disappointments... any recommendations?
Thanks, and have a great week.
Marie.
Hi,
I’m heading to Cancun next January and I’m looking for a rental car.
I’m overwhelmed by all these cheap offers from sites like Booking, Carigami, and others...
Some reviews mention extra insurance fees that had to be paid on the spot.
I’d love to hear about your experiences—what company did you use? Were you charged any additional costs?
A lot of ads redirect to Touracancun, but they don’t seem trustworthy to me.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi,
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are: - Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier? - Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Thanks for your answers.
Claire
My son is finishing up a year of working holiday in Canada soon. His plan is to take a bus from Montreal to Florida on 10/26, stay there for a few days, then fly to Cancun, Mexico. From there, he doesn’t have a precise plan yet, except to head down to Panama if the security situation in the countries he’ll cross allows it. Then, in March 2026, he’ll take a flight to Martinique, where he’d like to either find a sailboat (as crew) for the return transatlantic crossing (option 1) or do a sailing internship that includes the crossing (option 2).
So my questions are: - Will he be able to re-enter Mexico without an exit date or proof of a flight back to Belgium? Would being able to prove his return by sailboat with a specific date (option 2, the sailing internship) make things easier? - Are there any countries to avoid between Mexico and Panama? He’s traveling backpacker-style on a small budget.
Thanks for your answers.
Claire
Hi everyone, absolute travel lovers after our 20 trips to the USA, we’ve decided to head to Mexico in February (flight already booked: Nice to Cancun on February 20th, returning on the evening of March 1st).
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things: - **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island? - **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend? - **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres. Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour. Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 2 – February 22nd**: Ek’ Balam + Cenote X’Canché → Valladolid
Drive from Cancún to Ek’ Balam (~2h). Visit the archaeological site. Swim at Cenote X’Canché. Drive to Valladolid (~30 min). Overnight in Valladolid.
**Day 3 – February 23rd**: Chichén Itzá → Bacalar
Early departure to Chichén Itzá (~45 min). Guided tour + optional visit to Ik-Kil cenote. Drive to Bacalar (~4h). Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 4 – February 24th**: Bacalar
Boat excursion to the "Laguna of Seven Colors." Cenote Azul + Fuerte San Felipe. Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 5 – February 25th**: Bacalar → Tulum + Ruins, Cenote & Beach
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum. Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view). Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera. End the day at Playa Paraíso. Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal. Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal. Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen. Evening on 5th Avenue. Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino). Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min). Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos. Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport. Return rental car. Return flight.
I’m mainly hesitating about trying to do too much, as usual when discovering a new country. Here’s my itinerary—I’m unsure about a few things: - **Day 1**: Should we stay relaxed at the resort we booked, or should we do Isla Mujeres instead? If we stay, when’s the best time to visit the island? - **Day 3**: If we visit Chichén Itzá right at opening, will the Ik-Kil cenote be quieter in terms of tourists? If not, which cenote nearby would you recommend? - **Big decision**: Should we go all the way down to Bacalar or not? After that, it feels a bit rushed. **Day 6** is mandatory, or are there other options? Honestly, I’m counting on your advice!
For context, we’re a family of four (with very grown-up kids who are used to traveling), and we’ve already rented an SUV for this period. Thanks in advance for your help—it’ll be invaluable!
**Departure – February 20th**: Arrival in Cancún
Arrival at 8:20 PM, pick up rental car. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 1 – February 21st**: Isla Mujeres
Ferry from Cancún to Isla Mujeres. Playa Norte, snorkeling, golf cart tour. Return to Cancún. Overnight in Cancún.
**Day 2 – February 22nd**: Ek’ Balam + Cenote X’Canché → Valladolid
Drive from Cancún to Ek’ Balam (~2h). Visit the archaeological site. Swim at Cenote X’Canché. Drive to Valladolid (~30 min). Overnight in Valladolid.
**Day 3 – February 23rd**: Chichén Itzá → Bacalar
Early departure to Chichén Itzá (~45 min). Guided tour + optional visit to Ik-Kil cenote. Drive to Bacalar (~4h). Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 4 – February 24th**: Bacalar
Boat excursion to the "Laguna of Seven Colors." Cenote Azul + Fuerte San Felipe. Overnight in Bacalar.
**Day 5 – February 25th**: Bacalar → Tulum + Ruins, Cenote & Beach
Drive (~3.5h). Settle in Tulum. Visit the Mayan ruins of Tulum (stunning ocean view). Swim in Gran Cenote or Cenote Calavera. End the day at Playa Paraíso. Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 6 – February 26th**: Sian Ka’an Reserve
Guided excursion:
Option Muyil (half-day): boat tour + swim in the Mayan canal. Option Punta Allen (full-day): dolphins, turtles, snorkeling on the reef.
Overnight in Tulum.
**Day 7 – February 27th**: Tulum → Akumal → Playa del Carmen
Morning: snorkeling with turtles in Akumal. Lunch, then drive to Playa del Carmen. Evening on 5th Avenue. Overnight in Playa del Carmen.
**Day 8 – February 28th**: Playa del Carmen → Puerto Morelos
Free morning in Playa del Carmen (beach or Cenotes Azul & Cristalino). Afternoon: drive to Puerto Morelos (~30 min). Overnight in Puerto Morelos.
**Day 9 – March 1st**: Puerto Morelos → Cancún → Return flight
Relaxing morning in Puerto Morelos. Drive (~30 min) to Cancún Airport. Return rental car. Return flight.
Hi there,
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Thanks in advance!
Stéphane
Back in 2002, we spent two weeks in Playa del Carmen. We did day trips to Cozumel, Isla Mujeres, Chichén Itzá, Tulum, and Xcaret.
We’re heading back at Christmas with our two daughters, aged 15 and 19. I’m sure it’s changed a lot with the booming tourism.
Flights are booked: Paris-Cancún on 19/12 (arriving at 8:20 PM) and Cancún-Paris on 01/01 at 1:30 PM. We’re still finalizing the itinerary because we want to explore but don’t want to switch hotels too often. We’ll be there for 13 nights and 12 days, so we’re choosing among: - Playa del Carmen - Cozumel - Holbox - Valladolid - Tulum - Mahahual
We won’t do everything, so any tips would be great! I’m also unsure if renting a car is the best option.
Thanks in advance!
Stéphane
Hi, can you tell me if there’s a bus or shuttle from Alajuela to the Nicaragua border via Los Chiles? I’d like to avoid going through San José.
Thanks for your help!
A fantastic trip, dominated by the Altiplano, volcanoes, and especially the Mayan people!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over. In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans. Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy! Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall. The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different. We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!
Our route: Antigua – San Lucas de Toliman (Lake Atitlán) – Chichicastenango – Sayaxché – El Remate – Flores – Río Dulce – Livingston – Antigua I won’t describe our trip in detail but will highlight a few points that go beyond the usual routes and really won us over. In Antigua, it’s easy to take a chicken bus from the bus station next to the central market in the eastern part of the city to visit nearby villages. We went to Santa María de Jesús on a Sunday without seeing any other Westerners. We got lost in its colorful market, ate at a *comedor* with local dishes we didn’t find anywhere else, and were surrounded by incredibly welcoming Mayans. Several villages around Lake Atitlán are well-covered by travelers and guides like *Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, but if you want to stay somewhere more authentic, I recommend San Lucas de Toliman (we stayed at *Casa Qatzil*—great place!). It’s in the southeast of the lake, with a market on Tuesdays and Fridays, a central square full of locals (more of those super-friendly Mayans!), and the option to visit other villages by *lancha* (boat) for the day. A walk toward the lake lets you pass by the washhouses, and there are hikes accessible by *pick-up* (shared transport), like the twin volcanoes Tolimán and Atitlán or Cerro del Oro (less challenging!). We loved visiting Santa Catarina Palopó—get lost in its maze of steep alleys, admiring the blue facades with their characteristic paintings. There are direct *chicken bus* connections to Chichicastenango in 1.5 hours. Cheap and convenient, though a bit bumpy! Chichicastenango is famous for its market, described as the largest in Central America, on Thursdays and Sundays. A flood of tourists arrives between 10 AM and 1 PM, shuttled in by organized buses from Lake Atitlán and Antigua. But if you have time, stay overnight the day before and enjoy the market before 10 AM or in the afternoon. This little town (more of those welcoming Mayans!) is worth lingering in for a day or two to visit the cemetery, extraordinarily colorful and a site of Mayan rituals. Also take time to go to *Plaza Baktun*, a site considered sacred in Mayan culture where religious ceremonies take place around seven sculptures several meters tall. The ruins of Aguateca are barely excavated (most structures are still covered in vegetation) and are only accessible by boat, traveling up a tributary of the Río de la Pasión to the sound of howler monkeys and birdsong (1.5 hours from Sayaxché). We felt like we got a sense of daily life in the ancient city—not just its religious dimension—with its ravine for sheltering women and children during attacks, its cliff, and defensive walls. Alone with our *lancha* driver, who acted as our guide in the barely cleared jungle, this site doesn’t overlap with Tikal at all—the vibe is completely different. We stayed in El Remate instead of Flores to visit Yaxhá and Tikal, at *Posada Ixchel* (great place!). This quiet little town lets you stroll along the lake and hike in *Cerro Cahui*, a protected biotope leading to a viewpoint. Plus, it’s on the way to the sites, saving 45 minutes per trip.
Feel free to ask me questions about the places, accommodations, etc.—I’d be happy to answer!





