Par 2 fois j’ai tenté de faire ce post et, presque à la fin, le texte est parti dans les limbes des méandres de mon ordi, sans nul doute grâce à mon extrême compétence en la matière.
Je retente une 3ème fois, l’angoisse au bout des doigts.🏴☠️
Ayant énormément apprécié les commentaires, aides, conseils et bons plans en tout genre de ce super forum, je me devais contre vents et marées d’y apporter ma modeste contribution.
Je vous livre mes péripéties préparatoires à l’aventure tant attendue du mois d’août prochain.
Le premier enseignement a en tirer, c’est que pour un tel voyage " self drive en Afrique Australe ", il faut s’y prendre tôt à l’avance, presque un an je dirai, principalement pour les meilleurs prix des billets d’avion (plus c’est tôt moins c’est cher), et pour la difficulté certaine à obtenir des places de camp site dans les incontournables must que sont Sesriem, Etosha, Chobe et Chutes victoria…. La palme revenant au camp d’Ihaha à Chobe pour lequel j’ai envoyé des dizaines de mails avant d’avoir des places. Pour ces sites là, le fully book n’est peut être plus une légende.🤪
L’équation de départ était de faire en 26 jours : la Namibie du sud au nord, Chobe et les Chutes Victoria avec un budget non extensible à souhait. Après les premières estimations, nous avons opté pour un départ et arrivée depuis Johannesbourg en Afrique du Sud. L’économie réalisée sur le poste avion et location 4x4 " fully equiped " était d’environ 1800 euros. De plus les mauvais retours sur les mésaventures des disparitions inquiétantes de bagages entre Jo’burg et Windhoek ne me disaient rien qui vaille.
Il a fallu sacrifier deux jours sur le voyage pour les longues distances du départ et du retour, ainsi que deux sites sans aucun doute remarquables : le Pays des Himbas et l’Okavengo (mais en deux jours cela n’aurait pas été possible non plus) Peut- être une autre fois…..
Les participants au voyage sont : ma femme, junior (12 ans) et votre serviteur.
Pourtant quelques déboires sont venus gripper la machine et ont revu à la baisse les économies projetées : 🙁🙁
Nous avions initialement réservé et payé nos billets via Vivacances : pour un vol Paris-Doha-Jo’burg sur la Qatar airways, départ le 31/07 de Paris arrivée le 01/08 à Jo’Burg pour un tarif de 2300 euros.
Nous avions contact avec un loueur de 4X4 (www.southafrica4x4.co.za ) qui nous proposait les 26 jours de loc, sans excess, avec tout le barda et le GPS en prime pour 20000 zar : Nous n’avions encore rien payé.
Début janvier tout semblait être réglé, les principaux camp sites et lodges ou B&B d’étapes bookés et la plupart payés (ou arrhes envoyés).
Lorsque patatra, la scoumoune est arrivée : 😠😠
Mi janvier, un petit mail tombe : la Qatar a modifié des horaires de vols. Le transit de 4H00 a Doha se transforme en 24H00 et l’arrivée ne se fait que le 2 août à Jo’burg. Coup d’oeil sur le planning, soit il faut zapper Fish river canyon, soit il faut tout retenter les résas. Je sais déjà que Sesriem est totalement complet (depuis plus de deux mois) et que vu la galère pour Ihaha….
De plus 24H00 à Doha dans l’aéroport……..
Nous avons annulé le vol, et pris d’autres billets par Emirates. Bilan : un surcoût de 500 euros ! ! ! et toujours pas de remboursement des premiers (il faut compter 3-4 mois dit Vivacances)
Autre gros soucis, mon loueur de 4x4, pourtant si aimable et prolixe en novembre et début décembre, ne donne plus signe de vie. Depuis mi-décembre et malgré les relances de mails avec accusé de réception : Nada ! Silence radio !
Je ne me vois pas d’ici un ou deux mois à rechercher un autre loueur et m’entendre dire qu'il n'y a plus de disponibilité.
Après une ultime tentative il y 3 semaines (toujours sans réponse), je me suis résigné à rechercher un autre loueur. J'ai trouvé celui là qui me semble bien: www.bushtrackers.co.za et qui a de bons feed back sur le net. Surcoût entre 2500 et 5500 zar, si j’arrive à obtenir la petite ristourne que je pensais qu’il faisait.
Enfin bon, quand je lis Grisemote et l’épisode de l’attaque de la diligence, je me dis que l’aventure Afrique Australe doit se mériter…..😉
Alors voici mon itinéraire avec les étapes.
31/07 : Décollage Charles de Gaulles 15H30
01/08 : Atterrissage Jo’burg 10H50 prise en compte du 4X4, courses diverses et nuit dans les environs (peut être là http://www.dalberryguesthouse.co.za )
Super beau voyage en perspective, mais purée ça fait des bornes...
Le trajet, à vue de nez, ça parait un peu gourmand ("moi ce que j'en dis" clin d'oeil à Nobody...😉).
Juste une remarque parce que je connais pas tous les endroits où tu passes :
Pour Sesriem tu peux aussi essayer ça : http://www.kuangukuangu.com/ (Kuangukuangu ça veut dire Voie Lactée, c'est de bonne augure non ?)
Je ne suis pas sur que www.southafrica4x4.co.za loue leurs propres véhicules, mais je n'en sais rien. T as essayé Britz ?
Pour ma résa de 4x4, avec les ennuis de Vynnilove (britz) et les non-réponses (4 loueurs) des loueurs Sud'Af ou Maun, je suis passé par une valeur sure (en tout cas connue) : Asco va me livrer mon 4x4 à Maun pour 300 euros de plus après Négo (fidélité).
N'oublie pas de me chauffer la place à Ihaha, mais ne chatouille pas les éléphants...!
Et si tu peux poster un message juste à ton retour pour indiquer les gros pièges ou les incontournables, j'en profiterai juste avant de décoller le 29 Aout, et suivre une partie de tes traces (ne laissent pas trop d'indices hein...! 😏😏😏)
Et pour les chutes tu as tranché entre le coté Zambie ou Zimbabwé ?
Tous tes "petits" soucis, en Septembre tu auras envie d'y être encore dedans... !
Bonne préparation.
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Joli programme... puisque j'ai fait le même... 😉 ou à peu près... !!!
Quelques nuances en effet : d'abord le départ qui s'est fait du Cap et non de Jo-Burg (Je ne connaissais pas la région de Capetown, et je ne le regrette pas, c'est superbe !), ce qui permet d'arriver au Fish River Canyon par en dessous... 😉. Mais surtout le fait que nous avions choisi l'option "Voiture normale + Lodges et Hôtels" et non "4 x 4 + Camping"... Si tu fais une recherche dans les posts de septembre/octobre, tu devrais trouver l'étude comparative que j'avais faite et qui avait montré que c'était nettement plus avantageux...😊
Mais ce que j'en dis... 😛 (Comme dirait Francky4 !!! 😎😉)
Ceci étant, j'aurais quelques suggestions, que j'espère constructives... :
deux nuits à Fish River Canyon ne sont peut-être pas nécessaires... Ce qui te permettrait d'en passer une de plus dans des endroits plus fascinants...
même chose pour les quatre nuits dans le coin de Sesriem... A moins que tu aies envie de faire un concours de châteaux de sable 😉
très bonne idée de prévoir une excursion Mola-Mola (Choisir le Marine Dune Day : dauphins, pélicans, cormorans et otaries le matin, déjeuner sur la plage avec huitres et champagne 😛, et safari en 4x4 dans les dunes l'après-midi)
si tu as récupéré une nuit aux deux précédentes étapes, profites-en pour faire une journée de plus dans le coin : Swakopmund, Welwitschia Drive, Cape Cross (plutôt que d'y aller depuis le Spitzkoppe)...
le cheetah park d'Otjitotongwe est super, et tu peux prévoir d'y passer la nuit, ce qui te permettrait d'éviter de risquer de rouler de nuit en arrivant sur Etosha, si tu fais le "Cheetah Tour" qui se termine assez tard dans l'après-midi.
à Kasane, ne surtout pas louper un "sunset boat cruise" sur la Chobe... Sublime !!! 😮
Pour les Chutes Victoria, vérifie bien avec ton loueur que tu as le droit d'emmener le véhicule en Zambie et au Zimbabwe. Un conseil : faire la visite à pied depuis le Zimbabwe et un survol (hélicoptère ou ULM) depuis la Zambie (possible de prendre un tour depuis le Zim avec passages de la frontière inclus)
Une autre option pour ton retour vers Jo-Burg : passer par Lobatse et faire étape au Pilanesberg, superbe petit parc 🙂, à côté du kitchissime Sun City...🤪
Rassure-toi, ça ne t'ai pas arrivé qu'à toi de perdre tout après de nombreuses heures de boulot (en ce qui me concerne sur les carnets de voyage), si ça peux te soulager un peu...
Ceci-dit, tu peux t'envoyer un message privé à toi-même, que tu sauvegardes de temps en temps (tu t'en écris plusieurs) et à la fin tu copies-colles dans cette rubrique!
Je pense comme Nobody que tu as une nuit de trop à Sesriem (2 nuits sur place c'est suffisant) et qu'en partant de Walvis Bay tu peux aller diectement à Cape Cross (tu ne vas pas y passer des heures...) et ensuite Spitzkoppe et nuit là-bas, tu gagnes 1 nuit que tu peux reporter à Cheetah Farm.
Concernant Fish River Canyon : certes j’y passe 2 nuits mais la première c’est en arrivant depuis Upington. En fait, je n’aurai que la journée du lendemain à consacrer entièrement au canyon (petite rando au programme)
Concernant Sesriem : Je ne passe que 2 nuits sur place. Celle d’avant fera suite à la route depuis Aus et hors du parc. Je ne peux pas passer à Kuangukuangu (dommage j’en conviens) car c’est trop au Nord (je viendrai du sud) j’avais trouvé aussi cet endroit http://www.littlesossus.com.na/frame.htm mais ils ne font plus camping
Pour la sortie Mola Mola, je note le Marine Dune Day. Je demanderai à mon hôte du B&B de me réserver des places, c’est peut être plus prudent. Oui pour le Champagne….les huitres bof-bof (je les donnerai à Madame)
Pour l’ordre de Passage depuis Walvis Bay à la Cheetah farm, vous m’êtes d’une grande perturbation car il y a 3 points que je veux faire : Cape Cross, Brandberg et Spitzkoppe. Or les variantes dans l’ordre de passage de ces 3 points sont multiples…Je ne sais plus par où commencer. Il me semblait que le plus " logique " était de faire Walvis-Spitzkoppe-Cape Cross et Brandberg.
Pour la nuit à Otjitotongwe, c’est une très bonne idée, si toute le monde s’accorde à dire que c’est sympa (Camp site possible ? ). En fait, je n’avais pas encore décidé où passer la nuit du 13/08 (jour de visite de la Cheetah’s farm)
Pour les Chutes, j’ai tranché : en venant de la Namibie, je ne passe pas par le Botswana mais directement en Zambie, par le pont de Katila Mutilo et je dors côté Zambien. J’irai quand même côté Zimbabwe mais je ne sais pas encore si j’irai à pied ou avec le 4x4. Les camp sites semblent se raréfier (le Maramba si plébiscité ne fait plus de place de camping), le Zambezi Waterfront lui ressemble un peu.
Un grand YES pour la Chobe sunset Cruise: faut- il la prendre exclusivement depuis le Chobe safari Lodge, ou celle du Kubulodge est-elle kif kif ?
Je trouve l’idée de descendre depuis Palapaye sur Gaborone et Lobaste pour faire le Pilanesberg très séduisante (j’ y avais aussi pensé). Mais j’ai peur que cela fasse trop loin pour le peu de temps qu’il me restera.
J’ai une question : sur ma carte " Reise know how " certaines routes sont marquées " permit required ", notamment à l’Est de Swakopmund et au Sud Est de Walvis (Naukluft Park) :cela veut- il dire qu’il y a un droit de passage à payer ou qu' il faille vraiment une autorisation spéciale ?
Je retiens la suggestion de Francky4 et je tacherai de satisfaire sa requête en rentrant.
Pour les Chutes, j’ai tranché : en venant de la Namibie, je ne passe pas par le Botswana mais directement en Zambie, par le pont de Katila Mutilo et je dors côté Zambien. J’irai quand même côté Zimbabwe mais je ne sais pas encore si j’irai à pied ou avec le 4x4. Les camp sites semblent se raréfier (le Maramba si plébiscité ne fait plus de place de camping), le Zambezi Waterfront lui ressemble un peu
Juste un détail: sache que pour le passage à pied ou non vers le Zimbabwé, tu payes de nouveau l'entrée(visa) à l'aller ET au retour, par contre je ne me rappelles plus les tarifs, mais je sais que pour nous 5 c'était loin d'être anodin!
En ce qui concerne le Maramba, ne regrette rien, la partie camping n'a rien d'extra!
Pour la Chobe-cruise, au niveau de la qualité des prestations je ne sais pas, mais le Chobe safari lodge était un peu moins cher que l'autre!
Quelques réponses à tes questions... :
Otjitotongwe : ils ont effectivement des "Camping facilities" ... Cf. leur site.
Comme je logeais au Chobe Safari Lodge, c'est bien évidemment leur "boat cruise" que j'ai utilisé (assez crowdy)... Aucune idée donc sur la qualité des autres... 🤪. Mais il ne doit pas y avoir beaucoup de différences... Tu peux voir des photos de ce safari en cliquant sur le lien dans ma signature... dont celle de l'éléphant à cinq pattes (ou deux trompes... 😛😉😊) ci-dessous 🙂
pour ce qui est du parcours de retour vers l'Afrique du Sud, je ne suis pas du tout sûr que tu y gagnes en temps en passant par le Waterberg (attention aux "speed traps" 😕) plutôt que par le Pilanesberg... Mais ce que j'en dis... 😉 Vérifie avec les calculateurs d'itinéraires.
Il y a effectivement un "laisser-passer" nécessaire pour circuler sur la Welwitschia Drive et vers la Vallée de la Lune... Il faut se le procurer au bureau de l'Environnement et du Tourisme à Swakopmund (Dans la rue principale)... Nous l'avions acquis, mais n'avons rencontré aucun point de contrôle... Alors, ce que j'en dis... 🏴☠️😛
Voili, voili...😎
PS. Pour les huitres, tu devrais essayer, elles sont en effet très douces, un peu comme les huitres de palétuvier que l'on déguste en Guyane ou à Djibouti...😛.
Nous partons egalement pour la namibie l'été prochain (13/07 au 20/08). Pour les mêmes raisons que toi nous atterissons en afrique du sud (au CAP) et prnons le 4*4 au CAP également chez :
www.drivesouthafrica.co.za
Ils nous ont parus bien, pas trop cher. A voir.
Ils doivent avoir une agence a johanesburg
A bientôt peut-être sur la route mais nous seront certainement devant....
Non, non, pas du tout... Le messum crater est à une vingtaine de miles au S.O. du Brandberg, alors qu'il s'agit d'un paysage lunaire de la vallée de la Swakop que l'on peut observer depuis la Welwitschia drive...
En tapant "Moon Valley Namibia" chez Gougueule, tu en auras de nombreuses photos d'heureux voyageurs...🙂
C'est à voir en fin d'après-midi, avec la lumière rasante...
Pour les réservations sur Sessriem, pas trop de soucis on peut camper à l'extérieur, ce que nous avons fait, en juillet dernier, à partir de 16 heures, qq campeurs investissent un terrain à 200m de l'entrée. On paye l'emplacement si on veu prendre l'accès à la gate la veille. Sinon personne ne te demande rien.
Pour tous les autres camp site sauf Etosha que nous avions réservé. Nous avons partagé les emplacements avec des rencontres par le forum ou sur place. Les emplacements sont grands on ne se gène pas.
Pour le mola mola, on a tout de meme était déçu, c'est vrai que nous l'avons fait sur la fin de notre périple.
Après 3 semaines de liberté, de nature, d'autonomie on a eu du mal a se retrouver confiné dans un 4x4 à 8 au milieu de touristes bruyants.Il faut dire que le temps était très brumeux (mais c'est souvent) et que l'on ne voyait pas grand chose. Enfin pas un souvenir impérissable vu le prix. Les huitres sont bien meilleures au Raft à Walwis bay bon resto beau cadre et pas trop chèr .
J'ai vu que tu allé sur N'Gepy camp c'est sympa, on a adoré la balade en mokoro à ne pas louper.
bonjour
essayez voir avec l agence Tourmaline à windhoek,
ils sont tres efficaces et l agence est dirigee par un français ...
il vous trouvera une voiture
il a reussi à faire changer notre voiture par une societe de location en pleine periode de pointe! et nous faire donner une 4x4 neuf au lieu de la casserole du debut(mais qui avat quand meme fait deja 3500km)i
bon voyage
Bonjour,
Beau périple et beaucoup de péripéties.
Nous aussi, nous avions un projet qui, on le pense, tenait la route, et v'lan !, tous les campsites du Botswana sont pleins.
Tes réservations sont elles déjà faites et comment as-tu procédé ?
salut Robinette,
les campsites du Botswana ne sont sûrement pas plein mais c'est leur politique d'annoncer fully booked en permanence. 🤪
alors ne perds pas espoir et insiste encore et encore
l'autre option reste de prendre le risque de se pointer sans réservation mais c'est plus risqué.
le nord Chobe ne pose pas de problème car tu peux dormir à Kasane.
Salut Vinnylove,
Nous avons demandé à notre loueur de voiture s'il pouvait nous réserver Sesriem et Etosha ainsi que les campsites du Botswana.
Il le pouvait car il est en relation avec une agence et c'est cette agence en Namibie à qui le Botswana a répondu que tout était plein. Ils avaient seulement 2 jours de libres pour Savuti et encore ce n'est pas les dates que l'on souhaitait.
On va peut être essayé de lui demandé de refaire sa demande.
Merci encore pour ta réponse.
Pierrette
Je voudrais vous apporter ma réflexion sur les fully booked, tout en indiquant que c'est de la pure théorie à 2 balles car je n'y suis pas encore allé !!
Certes les années précédentes, il a été constaté à moultes reprises que le fully booked était sur le papier mais pas dans les camps MAIS :
La Namibie devient de plus en plus visitée et donc dans les périodes juillet-août, les petites structures "campsite" des sites incontournables (Sesriem, Etosha) idem pour Chobe au Botswana sont vite remplies. Deux phénomènes accentuent également ce risque de réelle carenceLes récentes multiples apparitions de la Namibie dans des reportages sur les destinations "coup de coeur" et les malheurs du Kenya ont probablement détournés aussi une partie des voyageurs en recherche de terre d'Afrique.Certains lodges privés situés en périphéries de ces sites et qui proposaient en plus des tentes de luxe et bungalows, des emplacements pour les campeurs disposant de leur matériel, ont cessé ces offres. Je l'ai constaté autour de Sesriem, de Chobe et des Chutes Victoria.
Maintenant Robinette, je crois me souvenir que tu pars en Septembre. Il y aura certainement un peu moins de monde et le fully booked ne sera encore peut être que sur le papier.
En fait ce problème concerne essentiellement le Botswana, plutôt que la Namibie.
Nous avons rencontré sur place des gens dépités car on leur avait dit que c'était complet, et ils ont trouvé un camping quasi vide!!! A priori les agences de voyage réservent d'office des emplacements qui ne seront finalement peut-être pas occupés, d'après ce que j'ai compris!
Ce doit être mes origines belges, je réagis que maintenant en relisant...
03/08 : Route jusqu’à Fish River Canyon, nuit au camps de hobas
04/08 : Fish River Canyon nuit au camps de Hobas http://www.namibweb.com/canyon.htmSi tu as prévu une journée de marche, c'est OK (en saison sèche le fond du canyon est accessible), mais si tu n'es pas marcheur, tu auras peut être fait le tour en une demie journée, je ne sais pas... Ou une journée de repos pour décompresser de ton voyage-avion... Ouai
05/08 : Route pour Aus direction Sesriem peut- être nuit là: http://members.fortunecity.com/neisiprest/neisiphome.
1/ le site internet indiqué n'existe plus ! J'espère que le lieu existe encore (je rigole...)
2/ Tu seras parti de Hobas, ça va faire des bornes si tu veux pas t'arrêter à Aus (camping sympa). D'où peut être, partir de Hobas la veille ap-midi et dormir à Seeheim pour gagner un peu de temps, et commencer la route au Nord de Aus, D707.
Pour info il y a un camping - bungalow très sympa à Betta qui peut être une alternative à Aus si tu as le temps d'y arriver avant la nuit.
06/08 : Direction Sesriem par route 707 nuit là : http://www.natron.net/tsauchab (camp de Sesriem déjà plein dès octobre)
07/08 : Sesriem nuit au camp ! !
08/08 : Sesriem nuit au camp ! !
http://www.namibian.org/travel/lodging/sesriem.
Ca fait trois nuits, deux jours complets sur Sesriem plus le matin avant de partir pour Walvis Bay. Ouai pourquoi pas. J'ai l'impression que une journée et demie (=une nuit) sur place peuvent être suffisants.
17/08 : Longue route via Rundu direction Caprivi nuit sur Bagani (peut ête là : http://www.ngepicamp.com
Là encore, on a l'impression que tu fais plein de bornes et après tu restes " " " longtemps " " " sur place (à Vic falls).
Sur la route de Vic falls, dans le parc de Mahango, il y a des endroits sympas pour faire "plus cool", ou à
Tu vois idem pour Chobe : tu y reste 4 nuits et après tu cours. (Combien de temps à Waterberg ? Combien de temps entre Waterberg et Jo'Burg airport, pour rendre la voiture faut compter une petite heure...)
Ces remarques sont complètement subjectives.
Tu as choisis un superbe parcours très complet, mais tu risques d'avoir aussi des souvenirs de routes interminables. Mais c'est aussi une façon de faire : Beaucoup de route, puis prendre ton temps... une sorte de stop and go-speed. Why not.
Voilà mes remarques tardives.
Dis nous si tu as résolu tes Pb de 4x4.
Est ce que tu as déjà réservé (et déjà payé ) tes campings et autres hotels ? tu crois qu'il faut le faire avant d'arriver sur place ?
Bonne préparation
Bon voyage à vous trois
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
j'ai déserté le forum depuis quelques temps pour cause de vacances mais j'y reviens!
merci Franky pour t'être penché sur mon itinéraire.
La boucle que j'ai envisagé dans le temps qui m'est imparti m'a imposé des étapes et des choix plus ou moins stratégiques.
J'ai choisi également l'option "grands bonds": grandes journées de route et pauses assez longues car les kms ne me font pas peur. Je préfère ce type d'organisation à l'option "sauts de puce" (étapes plus courtes mais moins de temps sur place).
De plus, le 1er jour de chaque étape est souvent une arrivée dans l'après-midi et cela ne compte pas vraiment.
Concernant la nuit au Neisip, je n'ai pas eu de réponse et je vais effectivement chercher un autre camp du côté de la D707. Le campsite du ranch KOIIMASIS me parait des plus sympatiques.
J'ai réservé quasiment tous les B&b et les campsites pour lesquels j'ai versé soit un acompte soit la totalité (surtout par ceux qui sont gérés par le NWR ainsi que le camp d'Ihaha au Botswana). Pour moi, "y a pas foto": en y allant au mois d'août (je ne serai pas le seul touriste européen), je ne prends pas le risque d'arriver un soir sur un site où le seul camp du coin est complet ou fermé ou.... Je n'ai pas envie de stresser à en chercher un pendant des heures à la lumière des phares.
Ce voyage nous apportera sans doute assez d'aventures inattendues et m'éviter des tracas que je peux gérer avant le départ me parait sage.
Mes problèmes de 4X4 sont résolus car j'ai choisi un autre loueur, le premier n'ayant plus, de nouveau, donné de signe de vie... (j'ai laissé un post quelque part sur le forum à ce sujet...)
bonjour
Avec mon épouse, nous partons le 2 aout prochain pour 4 semaines à CAPE TOWN
De là, nous voudrions visiter la NAMIBIE
Est-il judicieux de louer un 4x4 avec tente, au CAP puis de rouler vers la NAMIBIE
ou est-ce préférable de le louer à WINDHOEK
merci de vos suggestions
cordialement
Philippe
salut,
il est préférable de louer en AFS plutôt qu'en Namibie car les prix sont moins chers
de plus tu peux en profiter pour faire le fabuleux Kgalagadi transfrontier park sans oublier le Namaqualand. A cette saison tu devrais avoir les fleurs.
Hello grisemote, vinnylove and co, ... et surtout tous ceux qui (oh! les veinards) se préparent à partir vers les grands espaces d'Afrique australe ... particulièrement donc moreli, chobe, savuti:
concernant la Wild life qui des mois avant annonce que les camp sites sont "fully booked" !
et pour info: ci-dessous copié-collé d'un mail d'avril (copié sur un forum sud-africain)
NB: j'ai aussi pu vérifier cela personnellement quand j'y étais (2 années différentes)
Donc: moralité, même si on vous répond que c'est full, fully booked, allez-y !!!
Nicole
Botswana and Accommodation. Greetings all,
We have just got back from an 11 day trip to Bots. We also got the whole story from Bots. tourism regarding fully booked campsites all over the country.
Day one we stayed at Khama and although they said they were full they eventually said that we can squeeze in anywhere and sort out the payment when we left. Upon going into the campsite....hardly a soul...go figure. The same on day two at Khubu Island.....got there....the little dude (Vusi) on the bicycle asked us if we were going to stay the night, we said yip and he said follow me I have lots of sites to choose from.Once again no hassels. Then on day three in Maun we stayed at the Okavango River Lodge (very nice place btw and the pub serves an awesome cold cappies and coke and a half beef bunny chow) also no issue with camping there either.
Day four found us at Moremi, North Gate...tried our luck and it seems that BWF find it hard to ignore an extra Pula or two and we had no issue getting a camp site. Day Five at Savuti...same thing no issue. Day six and seven found us up at Chobi so we tried Ihaha and .....surprise surprise....no issues either. Days eight and nine at the campsite at Chobi River lodge...also a breeze......and day ten at Nata lodge....paid and in we went.
So folks what I am saying is....dont let the 'WE ARE FULLY BOOKED' story scare you. The wildlife guys wont turn away an extra pula or two and they will get you a site.
We went in blindly and came out with our eyes wide open at what an awesome place Botswana is. So folks what I am saying is....dont let the 'WE ARE FULLY BOOKED' story scare you. The wildlife guys wont turn away an extra pula or two and they will get you a site.
We went in blindly and came out with our eyes wide open at what an awesome place Botswana is.
bonjour a tous, nous revenons de notre voyage au botswana du 10/04/2008 au 24/04/2008.
vous allez aimer la nuit a ihaha on a dormie 2 nuits extraaaaaaaaa, attention au crocodile qui ce fonde avec la vegetation, attention aux buffles et au elephants on a eu une frayeur de ce faire encercler par les buffles et les éléphants en meme temps c'est a dire que les arbustes sont haut et on ne vois pas un éléphant derriere(bizarre!!!)
et bien oui y a un éléphant et l'instant d'aprés il y est plus, il ce cache derriere les arbres.
on a dormi a coté d'une famille de babouin, et le matin on a eu la visite d'un phacochère pour le ptit dèj.
ihaha c'est extraaaaa j'ai adoré.
a bientot.
si vous voulez plus de renseignement.
de plus la reserve nous a couté 425 pula pour un 4x4 et 3 personnes.
a+
"l'homme, blanc en Europe, noir en Afrique, jaune en Asie, et rouge en Amerique n'est que le meme homme teint de la couleur du climat."
citation de Georges louis leclerc, comte de buffon
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 27 replies
On commence à prépare notre programme (2 semaines en 4x4 équipé de tente) pour un circuit en Namibie en juillet... 2016 (ben oui on s'y prend tôt!) et donc on…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Namibie · 5 replies
Alors au final avec mon amie nous avons choisis un voyage organise pour la Namibie en juin et j aurais quelques questions. Deja que pensez vous de air…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Afrique du Sud · 7 replies
Pour préparer individuellement notre voyage en AFS...cherche aide pour effectuer les démarches...de réservation...etc... construire notre voyage...dans notre…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Botswana · 17 replies
Notre départ pour 3 semaines en self drive approche et je me pose certaines questions quand à "la logistique camping". Lorsque vous allez faire les courses,…
Afrique de l'Est et Australe › Afrique du Sud · 6 replies
Je me lance dans la préparation d'un séjour en famille pour l'été (en France) prochain. Nous serons 5 (avec mes enfants de 18-16 et 11 ans) et partirons pour…
Nous revenons de dix jours en Tanzanie. Nous avons eu la chance d’être guidés par Gishaman. Toujours de bonne humeur, bon conducteur et très bon guide. Grâce à lui nous avons eu la chance de voir non seulement les big5 en une journée mais aussi plein d’autres animaux. Il travaille pour l’agence locale Blit Safaris qui a assuré un très bon suivi de notre voyage. À conseiller !
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
Botswana and Accommodation. Greetings all,
