Real perception of Myanmar

Hi,

Did you mention the site?

Hello, I’ve just returned from Myanmar, where I’ve completed my 7th trip since 2006. Myanmar has been experiencing an economic and tourism boom for the past 3–4 years. I recommend that travelers avoid the major tourist sites, like Inle Lake and the like, if possible. Instead, take a map of the country, spread it out on a table, and then spread some jam (preferably redcurrant) on it. Wait for a fly or mosquito to land on it. Once it does, note the spot where it landed, jot down the name of the region or town, and head there without looking back. That’s the start of a journey that promises to be off the beaten path. As the old sage from the hill with seven gates used to say, the true traveler is the one who doesn’t know where they’re going. Too late—you’ve already left, and maybe even returned. That’ll be for your next trip...

To give you a better idea, Myanmar is like Thailand was 35 years ago, though maybe not for much longer, and not everywhere. Myanmar is a large country, and there’s still a lot to discover. Myanmar is a place where the Asian soul remains authentic. Thirty to forty years of military rule have preserved that. You can even ride a bike with headphones on, something that’s no longer possible in France.

Another tip for discovering Myanmar (without the fly): toss your guidebook and iPhone out the window of the train or bus leaving Yangon.

As everywhere, you’ve got to know how to step off the beaten path 😊 Let yourself be guided by your intuition, travel without expectations, and take the time to talk (even if it’s not easy with Burmese people who barely speak English!), to settle in... step out of your comfort zone. That’s my vision of travel. Myanmar wasn’t my love-at-first-sight country. Even though it’s an enchanting place with incredibly kind people... I didn’t feel that same sense of serenity or being at home like I did in Sri Lanka. But I keep wonderful memories of it... that timeless moment in the evening with all those lights and Buddhist chants at the Shwedagon Pagoda. There were so many people, all sharing a beautiful, positive energy... The sunrise over Bagan with all those hot-air balloons in the sky, on a small, quiet temple. Meeting a monk who invited us into his monastery by Inle Lake, far from the tourist crowds. The boat ride through that little stilt village in a traditional canoe, with nothing but the sound of the oar in the water, maneuvered by a woman using her leg. Meeting that family who welcomed us into their home, and our laughter as we received thanaka and put it on them in return. And the little gem of southern Myanmar—hard to reach but so beautiful, powerful, and authentic... we’d never been photographed so much! FYI, there are a lot of tourists; we went in February. Many Burmese people are discovering their own country and its cultural richness now that Aung San Suu Kyi is president and the country is opening up to its own people (which wasn’t the case before), and it’s really touching... For all these beautiful moments, Myanmar is absolutely worth the detour 😊 Photos and videos: www.notrecoindereve.com

Hello, I see you're a fan of Burma (Myanmar). I've been there twice already: the first time, I did the classic tourist circuit—Rangoon (Yangon), Hpa An, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake. The second time, we went to meet different ethnic groups and traveled along the coast from Ngwe Saung to Sittwe, then Mrauk U, Mindat, Mandalay, and Kengtung. I loved the sites, the landscapes, and especially the Burmese people—they were incredibly kind. We were two women, and they bent over backwards to help us despite the language barrier. Especially since, for the second part of the trip, we were the only tourists. For now, this country remains my favorite. I know the political situation is a problem, but where in the world can you find true serenity these days? So let’s set aside the leaders and enjoy the country. The Burmese are thrilled to see tourists and show us the challenges of their daily lives. I’m thinking of going back soon to explore the north: from Mandalay to Myitkyina. The issue is, right now, it seems tourists can no longer take that route. Are you aware of this? Could anyone on this forum confirm it for me? Thanks for your help. Best regards;

Sorry, unfortunately I don’t know that northern part of Myanmar (my fly doesn’t either). Hope you get a helpful answer soon! It’s true that Burmese people are really charming, helpful, and pleasant. Myanmar is a very relaxing, stress-free country. Have a great next trip!

Thanks for your reply. Few tourists know about this region, which is supposedly very beautiful. Best regards

Hi Guardiani;

I don’t know if you’ve made your decision about the alternative destination (Burma), but one of the cheapest countries in that part of the world is India! Cheers, Fab.

I completely agree with you and I’m really happy to see he gave up on that trip. I’m also one of those people who loved Myanmar just because it’s trendy, I’m filthy rich, and culture doesn’t interest me at all. It was even worse than in Cambodia. If you can’t haggle a tuk-tuk down to 30 cents instead of 35, isn’t it better to just eat pad thai in Pattaya!

Hello, I’ve read all the comments your post sparked, and I’m a bit shocked! Would you say not to come to France just because Paris attracts millions of visitors? You just need to get off the beaten track (Yangon-Bagan-Inle Lake) to find a country that’s barely visited. We went to Pathein, then headed up toward Pyay, then west to take a boat that took us to Sittwe, Mrauk U, then Pakokku and Mindat. From Mandalay, we flew to Kengtung, and there, we discovered a stunning region where the ethnic groups don’t even speak the same language—but they understand each other... Our tight budget fit this trip perfectly. This was my third stay in the country, and I’m heading back in October to explore the North.

Let’s avoid prejudices (Buddhism is racist? No, some monks are! Aung San Suu Kyi stays silent? No, she’s moving forward step by step because the junta is just waiting for an excuse to seize power brutally. Democracy is being built. Hate slowly...)

Anyway... let’s steer clear of clichés and travel with an open heart. To everyone, happy travels and amazing discoveries.

I totally agree with you. For the past 10 years, I’ve been to Myanmar three times, always going off the beaten path, and as soon as I get the chance, I’ll go back. The only downside: it’s not as easy to find budget accommodation now as it was a few years ago.

Hi there,

I’ll reply to your first post to avoid diving into the later debates 😉 I assume you’ve now returned from your trip to Myanmar, and I’d love to hear your thoughts now, given the questions you had before leaving...

My husband and I went to Myanmar together, and we didn’t feel the same way about it at all. I had some concerns about all the people wanting to go there *just* “because it’s been open recently”! Umm... let’s say it’s become more accessible over the past decade, but that’s about it. This country sparks a lot of interest, and you quickly understand why: the warm welcome and kindness of the people, the stunning archaeological sites, the diverse landscapes... you really need to see it for yourself to form an opinion. I fell in love with it, even though we’d just come from Thailand and were feeling a bit tired of Thai tourism. I think it all depends on your travel habits...

Happy travels!

Hi there! I completely agree with you. I didn’t want to dive too deep into the controversy, but you said exactly what I was thinking. Cheers!

Hi, I previously forgot to attach this:

https://youtu.be/rTwCUmoEBts

I stumbled upon this discussion, 7 years later... I've been living in Myanmar for a few years now. For better or worse, foreign tourism in Myanmar is extremely low these days. This week in Bagan, I could count on one hand the number of tourists I saw while visiting the main sites.

Hi Richman, I really dream of going back, but emotionally speaking, it’s complicated to go sightseeing in a country at war 😢. Do those stunning hot-air balloons still exist?

Hi,

I think the balloons resumed their flights in 2022 after 3 years of COVID closure, unless I'm mistaken... I'm still in Bagan, I'll check for you tomorrow. The big concrete panoramic tower is open but often without electricity, so you have to climb on foot. Unlike Inle Lake, which seemed completely empty to me, there are still quite a few Burmese visitors in Bagan. On a national holiday, I was told at check-in that they were 100% full last night. Though after that, luxury hotels are slashing their prices to attract the middle class from Yangon and Mandalay. Most of the touristy restaurants have permanently closed their doors.

Okay, let's stay positive. I'm glad domestic tourism is doing well. And what's the vibe in the country like? Are there military everywhere or just in the north? (Sorry if my questions seem silly, but from France, it looks catastrophic!) Thanks

Yes and no. Lots of checkpoints on the roads, for sure. On the route between Yangon and Bagan, I had to go through 4 or 5 checkpoints. That said, not many visible ones inside Yangon or Bagan themselves... If what I'm saying makes sense...

Hello,

Right now, in this country, things can escalate very quickly. If you go, you have to manage to enjoy yourself while ignoring the fact that troops, not far away, are happily shooting at each other.

Sure, it's full of authenticity because it's still very untouched by tourists, but it's the Asian country where I ate the worst. Greasy as can be. Not having to wear shoes or, even worse, socks in the temples didn’t thrill me. In that case, I would’ve gladly had them hire staff to clean up the pigeon droppings.

The great tip for future travelers is to be among the first to go once the situation stabilizes.

Personally, I don’t give a royal damn about food and socks, Joel 😄 And honestly, I loved traveling in this country all the more because I was there just when Aung San Suu Kyi was elected!! A moment full of hope that, unfortunately, didn’t last long 😢. I really hope they find the path to peace, and while I obviously don’t plan to go there for tourism now, I’m very interested in hearing updates from someone who’s currently on the ground. Have a great day, Christelle