Real perception of Myanmar

Hi there,

Burma is definitely the Southeast Asian country I loved the most. But it’s hard to say what a trip there looks like today—I went in 2005... (and just to clarify, Burma hasn’t *recently* opened up; it’s been possible to travel there for a long time). Back then, there were very few tourists—things must’ve changed, but I doubt the country is as touristy as its neighbors. Apparently, Myanmar had 4.5 million visitors in 2015, compared to 32.5 million in Thailand.

So, whether it feels "too touristy" really depends on your own reference point...

Because if all this hype is a bit exaggerated, maybe we’ll just go somewhere else.

Hmm. I don’t really get it. We go places because *we* want to, right? Not because strangers (whose tastes or travel styles we don’t even know) liked it or not.

Because if all this hype is a bit exaggerated in the end, maybe we’ll just go to another country.

Hmm. I don’t really get it...

For my part, I totally get it... “visiting a country” says it all

and boom, I add one... nah, two stamps to my passport...😕

good evening

I’m currently in Myanmar. To answer the question—yes, there are tourists, but since it’s not peak season right now, it’s still manageable. Even when you do run into other travelers, it’s not that bad. I’ve even been able to visit pagodas and temples in Bagan and met more locals than tourists. That said, if you go for sunrise or sunset, it *is* crowded (that’s actually where I’ve seen the most people, or at the hotel).

But hey, if you decide to visit a country, there are bound to be tourists. Personally, I chose to come now before it gets even more crowded. I think it’s a shame to skip a place just because of tourists. That’s just my take!

chrystelle

Hello,

There are six to ten times fewer tourists than in Thailand, and yet I much prefer Thailand. Goes to show, it's all relative. What you should tell yourself is: I’ll go now instead of later, when there’ll be three times as many tourists."

Just to let you know, we're on an 8-month trip across Asia. We've already been to several countries, and the reason I'm asking this is because we've just been to Cambodia, which we didn't really enjoy.

Since we're traveling on a tight budget, it's really frustrating to end up in a country that isn't pleasant. Cambodia cost us quite a bit (more than all the other countries we've visited), and if we decide to buy flight tickets for Myanmar and pay for those super expensive visas, we really want to be sure we'll like it. While it's impossible to know for sure in advance, Myanmar is the country we're most unsure about what to expect.

It's obvious we'll encounter tourists there, and that's not a deal-breaker. But that's exactly why we want to know what to expect. Myanmar seems to be a country of many fantasies when you read blogs or watch documentaries.

And while I'm convinced I'll like it, I'm afraid I might have been too influenced by everything that's said about it.

My wife and I much preferred northern Laos, Vietnam, and Thailand over Myanmar and Cambodia. Thailand and Vietnam are better in terms of prices than Laos. Myanmar is really cheap, but the food isn’t great at all.

There’s a bit of a "trendy" vibe with Myanmar, and if you criticize it, some people act like you’re a heretic. I never blindly follow those kinds of trends. You can check out my travel journals for these destinations by clicking on my username.

Hi there, If you didn’t enjoy Cambodia with Angkor or Tonlé Sap (if I’m not mistaken), it’s pretty much certain you won’t like Bagan and Inle Lake—two of Burma’s main tourist spots. And if you thought Cambodia was expensive, I’d steer clear of Burma, where accommodation prices are even higher.

Good evening,

For me, I love Thailand for its landscapes, its beaches, and how easy it is to adapt. Sri Lanka with its stunning landscapes, wildlife, and flora, and its people. Cambodia isn’t as "beautiful"—the beaches aren’t amazing, and the wildlife and flora aren’t mind-blowing... yet it’s the country I prefer, for its people. I can’t explain it; it’s just how I feel 😐

Hi Guardiani,

I think the travel journal I made last year should answer some of your questions: https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=7437125;#7437125

That said, I can’t tell you if you’ll like it or not! Even when we visit the same places, we never have the same experience.

I think it’s a country for those who love real culture shock and for whom connecting with locals is essential.

For me, it was one of the most beautiful discoveries of my life as a traveler 😉

While I’m at it, I’d be really interested to know what you didn’t like about Cambodia because I’m planning to go there next year!

Thanks in advance for your reply, and happy thinking!

Christelle

Thanks everyone, I’m reading your messages with a lot of attention and interest. It’s true that as it’s becoming the trendy destination, it’s only natural to have questions—though it’s probably not for nothing either. The country’s recent opening brings a lot of mystery. It’s a bit like if North Korea opened up to tourism; I’d be the first to want to go, without really knowing if I’d actually like it in the end.

After checking accommodation prices on Agoda and Booking, it’s pushing me even more not to go to this country. We’re trying not to exceed a budget of 10-11 € per night, and prices climb quickly in Myanmar. We’ve just been to Cambodia and Laos, two countries that had a certain impact on our finances (Laos much less, though). With the visa cost, I doubt it’s a good idea for us right now. Of course, the longer we wait, the more we risk losing that authenticity. And I don’t doubt for a second that it’s a wonderful country.

I console myself by thinking we experienced a real change of scenery and an amazing trip in Sri Lanka, that the people in Laos are really friendly, and that the landscapes in northern Vietnam are among the most beautiful we’ve ever seen. Every country is different, of course, but hey, we do what we can ;)

About Cambodia, the people are very nice too—that’s not the issue. The main thing is that we came from northern Vietnam, and suddenly, in terms of landscape, we lost a lot. It’s so flat; from east to west or south (we didn’t go north), you see the same scenery. Plus, we always try to eat in little local spots with the locals during our travels. We’ve always managed to do that—except in Cambodia. Hygiene often put us off, and the smells were hard to handle. Everywhere, there’s a strong smell of grilled food mixed with sewage. So after 15 days, we decided to head to Laos earlier than planned.

That said, we met quite a few people who loved the country—everyone’s experience is different. Ours wasn’t great. Solene40, I hope you have a better experience than we did and that you’ll love the country! :)

It’s really pointless to ask for opinions from people you don’t know. How can anyone give you advice when they don’t know you either? Reducing everything to money, especially in Southeast Asia, is a bit sad, and I’m being polite—it’s one of the cheapest regions on the planet, which explains the number of tourists. If you look around locally, you can find great places to stay and eat for very little, but these spots aren’t on Booking. I’d recommend going to Bagan, and if you really don’t like it, well… that’s disheartening. Otherwise, just continue your journey through Myanmar.

There’s really no point in asking for opinions from people you don’t know. How can anyone give you advice when they don’t know you either? Reducing everything to money, especially in Southeast Asia, is a bit sad—I’m being polite here—knowing it’s one of the cheapest regions on the planet, which explains the number of tourists. If you look locally, you can easily find accommodation and food for very little, but those places aren’t on Booking. I’d recommend going to Bagan, and if you really don’t like it, well… that’s just disheartening. Otherwise, you can continue your journey through Myanmar.

Couldn’t agree more. I’d even take it further—if you can afford a flight ticket costing several hundred euros to go to Asia, you shouldn’t be nickel-and-diming over 15 or 20 € for a hotel room. Travel around France a bit, and you’ll see whether the cost of living is higher or lower than in Myanmar, Cambodia, or Laos.

Sometimes I think about how some people pay 600 € for their flight ticket and still have a 7,000 € budget for their stay in a country, while others, after buying the same ticket, only have 600 € left to spend on the ground. More often than not, it’s young people, but not exclusively.

The privileged ones are those who at least have the financial and physical means to travel.

Absolutely. But with 600 €, while we're at it, you can spend three weeks in Myanmar. Try doing the same in France, Belgium, or Switzerland with hotels, transportation, and meals.

Ah, that’s exactly why I’ll meet you in Bangkok instead of Courchevel or Monte Carlo.

To be honest, even if I were much wealthier, it’d still be the case...

To be honest, even if much wealthier, it would be the same...

Besides, Mr. Nicolas Sarkozy goes on vacation to Phuket—enough said...

As for Burma, there’s one question that’s been completely overlooked; so I’ll give you the answer 😛; if you don’t like pogroms, don’t go to Burma. Buddhism, the other religion of love and peace, regularly targets Muslims—and not in a peaceful way. Destruction of property and murders are commonplace there, with the blessing of Nobel Peace Prize winner Aung San Suu Kyi, who has never once spoken out against it.

"Silence means consent," doesn’t it?

Thanks to everyone for your replies. We could have left it at that, but honestly, when people judge me without knowing me, it tends to annoy me.

Dear Daisyone, if you're lucky enough to live in the lap of luxury and hold that kind of discourse, good for you, but unfortunately, that’s not our case :) As I always say, I think traveling is a lifestyle choice, not just luck. No matter your budget, you can find a way to travel—maybe not exactly how you’d like, but still. We’re on a several-month trip in Asia, for which we gave up our apartment, and we continue to work remotely to fund it. But since we don’t earn much money, we really feel the difference between a room at 10 € and one at 15 €. It’s not about a 2-week trip; it’s several months. Over that kind of time, it makes a real difference. But let’s be clear, I’m not complaining at all. I’m already so happy to be traveling—rooms at 5 € or 10 € suit me just fine! That said, I find the judgment implying we’re freeloaders completely exaggerated. You know nothing about our finances.

I’ll add that if I’m so attached to Booking or Agoda, it’s because my partner is autistic (Asperger’s). I invite you to read this article to understand what that means: http://bapetcec.com/cec-et-le-syndrome-d-asperger/. The unexpected is very stressful for her, and there’s already so much of it. At least the internet lets us manage things in advance. I didn’t mention this in my original post because I didn’t think I’d have to pull out my credentials just to get opinions.

Finally, you ask how you can help me when we don’t know each other. Gosh, should we shut down all internet forums then? Isn’t that the point—to ask strangers for help? Isn’t that what VF is for?

In the end, we won’t be heading to Myanmar after all. It’ll be for a future trip when we’re better prepared. We’re currently in Vietnam and looking for the cheapest next destination.

Thanks to everyone who shared their insights—it was a huge help, even though I don’t know any of you from Adam.

No, I’m not living in luxury and I’ve been traveling on a tight budget for years. I’m sorry if I offended you—my response was a bit harsh. And, you know, it’s by sharing a little more about your "personalities" that we can better understand your situation.

I have a friend who just spent a month in Burma on a very tight budget, and he managed just fine. But it’s true that he doesn’t book anything in advance and always asks locals for cheap tips on the spot.

Good luck! Have a very good trip! !

Hi there, You're right, it's exaggerated. Even the enthusiasm is overblown by the Burmese authorities, who announce every year that they want to reach 5 million tourists but never manage to do so. 90% of the travelers on this forum will tell you it's an authentic country or their favorite destination in Asia. Don’t believe them—they’re just doing what everyone else does by saying that. It’s just to be trendy. You're absolutely right to move on; there's nothing to see. Head to Thailand, Vang Vieng in Laos, or Angkor—they're much more authentic.

So I’d love to hear your general thoughts. Were you disappointed? Or, on the contrary, did it meet your expectations?

Surprised, delighted, back in 2012... I’m going back tomorrow after all these years...

Tastes and preferences are personal, after all.

Fair enough. But with 600 euros, while you’re at it, you can spend three weeks in Myanmar. Try doing the same in France, Belgium, or Switzerland with hotels, transport, and meals.

600 euros for three weeks in Switzerland? Never... or you’d be sleeping on benches. An Ibis hotel in Switzerland (for reference) averages 130 CHF. More expensive than Hong Kong. A meal averages 20 CHF. 😉 But I think you were talking about Europe in general.

If you can afford a flight ticket costing several hundred euros to go to Asia, you shouldn’t quibble over 15 or 20 euros for a hotel room.

Totally agree... travelers who arrive in Myanmar from Thailand and complain that a Coke costs $1 or that accommodation is too expensive are either clueless or have serious money issues. I’ve seen quite a few like that in Myanmar who can’t accept that it’s pricier than the rest of Southeast Asia...

I can’t help but think that some Burmese must see us as total idiots when a grubby backpacker haggles hard over $3 or $5 off a room or a few cents off a street skewer (I saw this in 2012 in the country... yes...).

As for the rest of the topic, having traveled a lot in Asia—especially Southeast Asia—I’d say Myanmar is the most beautiful country I’ve visited in the region. The people are friendly, and there’s so much to see everywhere....

the more we risk losing authenticity

Hi there, Could you share your definition of authenticity and what "loss" means to you?

minglabar

I just got back from Myanmar, and after spending 34 days there, I can say that hotels are definitely the biggest part of the budget. I opted for dorms, which are really nice and decent. Next up were bus trips, then meals, which aren’t too expensive—a dish costs between 1,000 and 2,500 kyat depending on the region, which works out to about $0.70 to $1.70. In total, I spent just under 740 €, including $18 for the extra 6 days and the visa.

That seems reasonable to me, since I’m not familiar with other Southeast Asian countries.

chrystelle

Hi Christelle, I’m writing because I’m planning a trip to Myanmar in October for 26 days, but I’ve started looking into it and it seems like the travel times are pretty long. I was thinking of arriving in Bangkok, then taking a flight to Yangon for 2 days, heading up to Mandalay, visiting Inle Lake and Bagan over 10 days, then making my way down to Hpa-An and crossing back over the Thai land border. I usually get around by bus or even train. I stay in guesthouses, and if you’ve got any cool recommendations, I’d love to hear them! I eat street food or at local restaurants. I’m traveling without any preconceptions and just going with the flow of the people I meet. Looking forward to hearing back! Cheers, Marie-Jo

I did this exact route at the end of February. I’d recommend flying from Bangkok to Mandalay and then heading south. I visited Yangon between Inle Lake and Hpa-an. To avoid long bus rides—and given my age—I took domestic flights twice. 😏Obviously, it’s more expensive.

hi

I’m going to post a message about my itinerary and the addresses of the hotels I stayed at.

That’s what sharing on the forum is all about—I got my ideas and more or less my whole route from here.

I flew from Nice to Bangkok, then the same day to Yangon. I went back up to Mandalay for my return flight to Bangkok.

It’s better to fly Bangkok to Mandalay and then work your way down, visiting Bagan, Inle Lake, and Hpa-An before heading to the Thai border. chrystelle

Thanks so much for the reply! I’m also in the "senior" age group, but I prefer public transport. I’m going to start preparing my trip. marie-jo

Hello, thank you so much—this confirms my idea of taking a flight from Bangkok to Mandalay and then heading down from there. I’m wondering about returning via the land border—are there any issues crossing through northern Thailand? I was thinking of going further south, around Sangkhlaburi on the Thai side.

Another question about the visa: I’ll get it done in France, but since my flight will be coming from Bangkok? I also plan to book my flight to Mandalay from France.

Sorry to bother you, but I’ve been to India twice, Thailand once, then Cambodia and Sri Lanka last October, and I never had any trouble planning things. This time, I’m completely lost... I only started traveling at 61, and I love it! I plan things roughly because I go with my gut and follow my whims. For example, in Cambodia, I only had time to do the Tonlé Sap lake tour, which I loved, along with Siem Reap. In Sri Lanka, in a month, I didn’t even have time to go north. I can’t wait to hear your recommendations—if they’re not too expensive, I’m happy to stay in dorms. A month always feels too short, but it’s better than nothing. I have a small pension, and I do night shifts on the side to pay for my trips. Some might say that since I’m paying 700 € or even 480 € for my ticket by going through Bangkok, I could spend more there. My on-the-ground budget will be 800 €—is that doable? Thanks for the answers!

Hi,

Those who do the classic circuit are often disappointed. Those who venture off the beaten path are really happy.

"Officially, there were 4.5 million visitors to Myanmar."

This figure is official, but in reality, half of them are business visas reclassified as tourist visas, which are easier to obtain.

I totally agree with you. Yes, places like Nyaungshwe, Bagan, or Mandalay have lost some of their charm in my eyes, unlike spots such as Mrauk U, Phekon, Khamti, Hpa An, Kaleta, Mindat... and many more. And I think there are still other wonderful places in Myanmar, far from the classic tourist sites. I already have a little idea for my next trip in October.

It also depends on how you visit so-called tourist spots.

I haven’t been to Myanmar yet, but we spent 10 days in Siem Reap. Out of those, 5 were at the Angkor site—by waking up a little early or going in the opposite direction of the tourist buses, we were often alone in the temples. When I look at my photos, there’s often not a single tourist in sight (okay, fine, at Bayon I waited a while for there to be no one 🙂).

Being alone in Bagan must be possible too

Yes, it's possible in Bagan—the site is so vast, and there are fewer tourists because of the earthquake.

Avoid March and October—lots of Chinese tourists.

hi

I got my visa from France via e-visa with my flight from Nice to Bangkok then Yangon—no issues entering Myanmar.

chrystelle

Hi there,

Of course, there are more and more tourists in Myanmar. It's up to you to get closer to the locals to discover the real Myanmar. Try cycling around Bagan among the temples while exploring the countryside, opt for small family-run restaurants, and stay in small hotels instead of 5-star ones... Don’t hesitate to wander through the colorful markets and, most importantly, share smiles with the Burmese people. Enjoy Inle Lake, but also take walks in the surrounding countryside to discover villages and their inhabitants...

I spent 5 weeks alone in Myanmar, organizing my trip myself without any agency. I have excellent memories of it, and above all, I always felt safe. I also made great connections with both locals and travelers from all over the world. Have a great trip!

Hi there, Two years ago, I spent 26 days in Cambodia, which I loved. The Cambodians are very welcoming. Accommodation is cheap and good quality. I visited Siem Reap twice—once on the way there and once on the way back (I was coming from Thailand). I only did the lake tour, and I really enjoyed it. Okay, it’s true that the landscape is flat and might not interest everyone, but the Cambodians are so welcoming (I’m repeating myself…). Getting around by bus isn’t expensive, but if you want to go off the beaten path, you can take motorbikes or tuk-tuks. I spent 800 € total for 26 days, all included. I attended two weddings (apparently, March is wedding season). In March, the rice fields are dried up, but there are so many people to meet, and quite a few Cambodians speak French. Good luck with the preparations! marie_jo

Hi there, I might be jumping in a bit late to the discussion, sorry about that! I’ve taken two long trips to Myanmar, so if you check out my blog, you’ll find quite a bit of info and photos. It’s true that there’s less demand to go there now, and hotel prices have really gone up. The Burmese people are lovely and super helpful—venture a little off the beaten path, and you won’t be disappointed. Just look it up online: dobledou travel in myanmar If you’ve got any questions, don’t hesitate! Safe travels

Thanks so much, Marie José—I was already sold, but you’ve just confirmed my choice. It’d be for next March, so perfect for wedding season, and too bad about the rice paddies 😉. Have a great evening, Christelle

Hi Marie-Jo, I’ve written quite a few articles about Myanmar, a country I really loved. Feel free to check them out on my blog and ask me any questions you might have. Hope you have an amazing trip in this incredibly welcoming country...

http://maglobetrotteuse.com/carnets-de-voyage/asie/birmanie

hi

did you see I posted my itinerary on the site?

chrystelle

Hi,

Did you mention the site?

Hello, I’ve just returned from Myanmar, where I’ve completed my 7th trip since 2006. Myanmar has been experiencing an economic and tourism boom for the past 3–4 years. I recommend that travelers avoid the major tourist sites, like Inle Lake and the like, if possible. Instead, take a map of the country, spread it out on a table, and then spread some jam (preferably redcurrant) on it. Wait for a fly or mosquito to land on it. Once it does, note the spot where it landed, jot down the name of the region or town, and head there without looking back. That’s the start of a journey that promises to be off the beaten path. As the old sage from the hill with seven gates used to say, the true traveler is the one who doesn’t know where they’re going. Too late—you’ve already left, and maybe even returned. That’ll be for your next trip...

To give you a better idea, Myanmar is like Thailand was 35 years ago, though maybe not for much longer, and not everywhere. Myanmar is a large country, and there’s still a lot to discover. Myanmar is a place where the Asian soul remains authentic. Thirty to forty years of military rule have preserved that. You can even ride a bike with headphones on, something that’s no longer possible in France.

Another tip for discovering Myanmar (without the fly): toss your guidebook and iPhone out the window of the train or bus leaving Yangon.

As everywhere, you’ve got to know how to step off the beaten path 😊 Let yourself be guided by your intuition, travel without expectations, and take the time to talk (even if it’s not easy with Burmese people who barely speak English!), to settle in... step out of your comfort zone. That’s my vision of travel. Myanmar wasn’t my love-at-first-sight country. Even though it’s an enchanting place with incredibly kind people... I didn’t feel that same sense of serenity or being at home like I did in Sri Lanka. But I keep wonderful memories of it... that timeless moment in the evening with all those lights and Buddhist chants at the Shwedagon Pagoda. There were so many people, all sharing a beautiful, positive energy... The sunrise over Bagan with all those hot-air balloons in the sky, on a small, quiet temple. Meeting a monk who invited us into his monastery by Inle Lake, far from the tourist crowds. The boat ride through that little stilt village in a traditional canoe, with nothing but the sound of the oar in the water, maneuvered by a woman using her leg. Meeting that family who welcomed us into their home, and our laughter as we received thanaka and put it on them in return. And the little gem of southern Myanmar—hard to reach but so beautiful, powerful, and authentic... we’d never been photographed so much! FYI, there are a lot of tourists; we went in February. Many Burmese people are discovering their own country and its cultural richness now that Aung San Suu Kyi is president and the country is opening up to its own people (which wasn’t the case before), and it’s really touching... For all these beautiful moments, Myanmar is absolutely worth the detour 😊 Photos and videos: www.notrecoindereve.com

Hello, I see you're a fan of Burma (Myanmar). I've been there twice already: the first time, I did the classic tourist circuit—Rangoon (Yangon), Hpa An, Mandalay, Bagan, Inle Lake. The second time, we went to meet different ethnic groups and traveled along the coast from Ngwe Saung to Sittwe, then Mrauk U, Mindat, Mandalay, and Kengtung. I loved the sites, the landscapes, and especially the Burmese people—they were incredibly kind. We were two women, and they bent over backwards to help us despite the language barrier. Especially since, for the second part of the trip, we were the only tourists. For now, this country remains my favorite. I know the political situation is a problem, but where in the world can you find true serenity these days? So let’s set aside the leaders and enjoy the country. The Burmese are thrilled to see tourists and show us the challenges of their daily lives. I’m thinking of going back soon to explore the north: from Mandalay to Myitkyina. The issue is, right now, it seems tourists can no longer take that route. Are you aware of this? Could anyone on this forum confirm it for me? Thanks for your help. Best regards;

Sorry, unfortunately I don’t know that northern part of Myanmar (my fly doesn’t either). Hope you get a helpful answer soon! It’s true that Burmese people are really charming, helpful, and pleasant. Myanmar is a very relaxing, stress-free country. Have a great next trip!

Thanks for your reply. Few tourists know about this region, which is supposedly very beautiful. Best regards

Hi Guardiani;

I don’t know if you’ve made your decision about the alternative destination (Burma), but one of the cheapest countries in that part of the world is India! Cheers, Fab.

I completely agree with you and I’m really happy to see he gave up on that trip. I’m also one of those people who loved Myanmar just because it’s trendy, I’m filthy rich, and culture doesn’t interest me at all. It was even worse than in Cambodia. If you can’t haggle a tuk-tuk down to 30 cents instead of 35, isn’t it better to just eat pad thai in Pattaya!

Hello, I’ve read all the comments your post sparked, and I’m a bit shocked! Would you say not to come to France just because Paris attracts millions of visitors? You just need to get off the beaten track (Yangon-Bagan-Inle Lake) to find a country that’s barely visited. We went to Pathein, then headed up toward Pyay, then west to take a boat that took us to Sittwe, Mrauk U, then Pakokku and Mindat. From Mandalay, we flew to Kengtung, and there, we discovered a stunning region where the ethnic groups don’t even speak the same language—but they understand each other... Our tight budget fit this trip perfectly. This was my third stay in the country, and I’m heading back in October to explore the North.

Let’s avoid prejudices (Buddhism is racist? No, some monks are! Aung San Suu Kyi stays silent? No, she’s moving forward step by step because the junta is just waiting for an excuse to seize power brutally. Democracy is being built. Hate slowly...)

Anyway... let’s steer clear of clichés and travel with an open heart. To everyone, happy travels and amazing discoveries.

I totally agree with you. For the past 10 years, I’ve been to Myanmar three times, always going off the beaten path, and as soon as I get the chance, I’ll go back. The only downside: it’s not as easy to find budget accommodation now as it was a few years ago.