Looking for recent info on Kalimantan
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
GA
Hi, On September 1st, we're heading to Kalimantan for six weeks, probably from Pontianak to the Derawan Islands. I've scoured this site, which is usually my go-to 😉, and others like VoyageForum, but recent info is pretty scarce. I'd love any tips on places you've visited—our itinerary is still a work in progress. We're two couples traveling with backpacks, using buses, boats, guesthouses, and homestays. Thanks in advance!
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

bus, boat,

Which boats do you take to arrive at/depart from Kalimantan?
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi Thierry, We’ll be arriving in Kalimantan by plane from Jakarta... I was talking about local transportation and what we’re used to. But we might also take a flight on the island itself—transportation seems even longer than what we experienced in Sumatra or Sulawesi. If you’ve got any info, I’ll take it!
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hi, what are the points of interest in Kalimantan? It's obvious you'll spend time on boats—I don’t think that’s really interesting. As far as I know, there aren’t any temples like in Bali. You could possibly go to Nusantara, the new capital of Indonesia under construction. For comparison, I spent one day traveling from Kuching in Sarawak to Sibu, then another day to reach Kapit by speedboat. Otherwise, the main points of interest in Borneo are mostly on the Malaysian side.
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi Mathews, I’ve already pinpointed the Dayak culture, river excursions into the jungle from several spots for wildlife and flora, floating markets, and the Derawan Islands for snorkeling—that’s what we’re interested in. But I have very little info and no contacts there, which is why I’m posting!
SO Songsam Veteran ·
At the end of the journey, after the islands, there are currently direct flights from Tanjung Redeb/Berau to:

- Samarinda 1 to 2 times/day on Wings Air - Balikpapan 1 to 2 times/day on Sriwijaya Air, 2 times/day on Super Air Jet, 3 times/week (Tues, Thurs, Sat) on Wings Air (nothing else within Kalimantan) - Jakarta CGK once daily on Batik Air And others to Surabaya and Makassar.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi there,

what’s the main point of interest in Kalimantan?

You might want to go there precisely because not many people do (except for Pangkalan Bun to see the orangutans) or to do the Trans-Borneo trek*, which can go from Pontianak to Samarinda—Samarinda being "not too far" from the islands where Gaiatika plans to end their trip.

* A grueling 15–20 days of hiking, scrambling, boat rides, and canoeing through ethnic groups and landscapes I assume are fascinating.
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
You're right, we’ll have to look into departure options too! Thanks for the info, I’ll keep digging.
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Hi! From what I know, the Dayaks are the majority ethnic group in Sarawak. There are also traders from the Chinese diaspora. So it’s probably the same in Kalimantan. However, don’t expect to visit hunter-gatherer tribes—they all live modern lifestyles now. What’s really interesting is staying in a longhouse for a few days.
VI Vikingman ·
Hi there, What seems problematic about your plan is that the road from Pontianak to East Kalimantan is very, very long and passes through landscapes that are uninteresting and environmentally degraded. In my opinion, it's better to stick to just one region. Around Pontianak, you have two options: the coastline toward Sambas and beyond, with populations that are mostly Muslim (Melayu), "Chinese," and sometimes Dayak... This route is the easiest, and you can go all the way north to the border with Sarawak. The beaches are ordinary, even ugly, but anyway, that’s not why you’re going there, right? 😉 It’s easy to find transportation (buses, shared taxis, etc.) and hotels in all the coastal towns. The people are friendly but sometimes conservative. In short, modest dress is a must!!! The other option is to head inland into predominantly Dayak territory. If I were to introduce someone to this region, this is the option I’d recommend, especially the area around Danau Sentarum, where you can still find longhouses and interesting natural areas. I haven’t been back in a while, but I know this region offers great opportunities for treks and other encounters with locals. Be careful, though: there’s nothing for tourists since almost no one goes there, no one speaks English, hotels are often run-down, and the food is basic (especially outside the cities)... I’m less familiar with the other regions, but if you’re looking for adventure, you could also go up the Kahayan River from Palangkaraya. It’s an easy trip by road to Tumbang Miri. After that, it’s dirt roads or canoes. There are beautiful funeral monuments everywhere and endless possibilities for river trips and jungle hikes... Either way, this is a completely different way to travel... Sarawak is probably much more convenient since it’s used to receiving tourists...
MA Mathews Globetrotter ·
Thanks for the feedback, Vikingman. Just one question—are the rivers in Kalimantan big waterways? I’m asking because I’m planning to paddle down one with my packraft.
VI Vikingman ·
You’ll find a bit of everything. Rivers, streams, creeks... Lots of crocodiles too, especially near the estuaries. Bottom line: you're gonna need a bigger boat!
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi there, Thanks so much for your reply—you’ve zeroed in on a region I’m really interested in! What kind of trip did you take there? I’m expecting run-down hotels and basic food, which would actually confirm how non-touristy it is. When I mentioned Dayak culture, I was thinking of traveling up the Kapuas River to Putussibau, with the option of starting by bus to Sintang and then continuing by local boat, stopping along the way. That said, I don’t feel comfortable just showing up in a village to sleep without being announced or introduced—unless it’s a hotel, and I don’t see any between Sintang and Putussibau. After that, the plan would be to explore on foot, ideally with a local guide. To sum up my questions: Do boats run daily? How do you sleep along the way? Is it possible to find someone locally? You mentioned Danau Sentarum, which is north of "my" route. It’s probably even more remote! How do you get there, and from where? Who can introduce me? We could imagine flying back to Pontianak...
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

continue by local boat with stops along the way. (...) do boats run every day?

I think there’s a question you should ask yourself first: are there passenger boats on that river?
VI Vikingman ·
(Hello, Thanks so much for your reply—you’re actually targeting a region I’m interested in. What kind of trip did you take there?)

Hi, I’ve traveled there (especially the Sentarum area and the Sambas region), but since 2003, I’ve been going back for family reasons (last time was in 2025, for several months). We’re based inland, a few hours from Pontianak, where we go regularly (and where the food is *amazing*!!!). That said, I still sometimes grab my backpack and explore a bit (hikes, etc.).

When I mentioned Dayak culture, I was thinking of going up the Kapuas River to Putussibau, with the option of starting by bus to Sintang and then continuing by local boat with stops along the way.

That used to be very doable. Now that the road has been redone (before, it was just a dirt track—people got carsick, and the trip was exhausting), I don’t know if people still travel by river. But no worries: there were never passenger boats, just cargo boats that took people on the side. So from Sintang, I’m sure you can still work something out. I don’t see why it would be any different now. If the water level is high enough, some boats stop at Lake Sentarum to fish and relax. Otherwise, they head straight to Putussibau.

But I don’t feel comfortable just showing up in a village to sleep without being announced or introduced—unless it’s a hotel, and I don’t see any between Sintang and Putussibau.

There are hotels in pretty much every small town. And family-run guesthouses. Don’t worry about that—no one will let you sleep outside. Just watch out for bedbugs; there are *a lot* of them, and they’re worse than mosquitoes. For villages, it’s all about vibes. I’ve never just shown up unannounced, except when arriving at dusk after hours of walking. The welcome is always warm and amused. The best thing is to take your time, chat with people, and let invitations come naturally. In Putussibau, you’ll definitely get approached. Four people is a lot, though—you’ll also be approached by guides who can introduce you and suggest things. Just be aware that you might also be invited by Malays. They’re friendly too, but it’s not the same vibe as a Dayak Iban village. A good trick is to have a reason for visiting: "I’m interested in the Dayak way of life," etc. They’ll be flattered and honored. It’ll also give you something to focus on. Avoid picking an aspect of their culture that’s fallen out of use.

You mentioned Danau Sentarum, north of "my" route. Probably even more remote! How do you access it, and who can introduce us?

You can get there by speedboat from Semitau or Selimbau—I always mix them up. Or by bus from Putussibau (toward Nangabadau), getting off at Lanjak. Check for lodging and activities once you’re there. It’s not *that* isolated since it’s close to Sarawak. Anyway… For snorkeling, there are the Lemukutan Islands. Really pretty. Off the coast of Singkawang. First trip to Indonesia? If so, you haven’t picked the easiest destination, but it’s not impossible either…
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Hi there, What a great idea to visit Kalimantan! I first went to the Malaysian side of Borneo and came back a bit disappointed—even 10 years ago, it was already very structured and organized. Not long ago, we went back, but this time only to Kalimantan as a pair. Our itinerary was shorter than yours—three and a half weeks—starting in Pangkalan Bun from Jakarta. The Kumai River trip is stunning; the nature reserve is on the right, and the left bank is wild. It’s much more natural than Borneo—we saw lots of different animals in just three days. Then BANJARMASIN, a partly floating city with its drifting floating market. A great memory. Loksado: floating market, waterfalls, hikes, bamboo rafting. Everything is improvised and amazing. Back to BANJARMASIN for a flight to BALIKPAPAN, then we stayed in Loajanan on a covered fishing boat to navigate the Mahakam River. The stops were nice, but there was too much commercial boat traffic. The nights were noisy. However, with a canoe, the riverbanks were varied—small villages or more "organized" ones, the longhouses of the Dayak people. Several stops, including one for a funeral ceremony. Returning to Muara Kaman and Mijara Bengkal was a real eye-opener—people had never seen white visitors except on TV. We spent 3 to 4 days paddling from village to village in a canoe, with basic but clean accommodations. We discovered very different villages—sometimes the women had long ears. Then we headed up to WEHEA, the low point! The forest is devastated, it rained, and it’s best forgotten. We found the main road, then the port and a speedboat to Derawan. There’s a dive lodge right next to the livelier village, which you can reach on foot. We spent 3 days swimming. You’re in for a treat—there’s still so much natural beauty and diversity in both wildlife and ethnic groups. Safe travels!
HENON Eric
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi there, So much to dig into—thanks a ton! I’ll take the time to go through everything in detail with my friends and get back to you later.

We’ve already been to Indonesia several times—first discovered it in Sumatra back in 2017, then Java, back to Sumatra in 2024 (we really love it!), and Sulawesi in 2025… to the point where I’ve been improving my Bahasa year after year, even though it’s still pretty basic!

This country is magical, and the people are so welcoming, no matter where we’ve been so far. A true discovery.
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi Eric, We keep crossing paths on this forum as our destinations overlap—thanks for your reply! I’ll definitely get back to you after I’ve looked into your info. 🙂
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

staying in Loajanan on a covered fisherman's boat to sail the Mahakam River

Does the Mahakam also flow through Loa Janan? Maps show it passes about thirty km further north in Samarinda before its delta begins. Or is that not the case?
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi, If needed, to avoid returning from the Mahakam via the same route, there are currently 1 to 2 daily flights from Melak* (on the river) to Balikpapan around midday. No air options from other villages further upstream.

If you feel like changing your plans to Bunaken instead of Derawan, the Balikpapan-Manado flight isn’t daily—currently departing on Mon, Wed, Fri, and Sat in the late afternoon.

* 0°13'47.04"S 115°49'17.05"E
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Hi there, It's not easy to summarize this itinerary in a few lines, but I might have made a mistake in my notes: Yes, Loa Janan is indeed on the banks of the Mahakam River (about 30 km south of Samarinda), and that's where we boarded. It took us 3 hours from Balikpapan to Loa Janan while sightseeing. I just found a map of the Mahakam River from the Delta to Tering in the west, with recommended stops—some of which I still remember. Have a good evening!
HENON Eric
VI Vikingman ·
Hello, So much to digest—thanks a ton! I’ll take the time to go through everything with my friends and get back to you later. We’ve been to Indonesia several times, starting with Sumatra in 2017, then Java, back to Sumatra in 2024 (we really love it!), and Sulawesi in 2025... to the point where I’ve been improving my Bahasa year after year, even if it’s still pretty basic! This country is magical, and the people are wonderful, no matter where we’ve been so far. A true discovery.

Okay, I feel better now. As a traveler, I definitely preferred Sumatra. In Aceh, I visited villages just as remote as in Borneo... where no foreigner had set foot in decades... But the vibe is more relaxed among the Dayaks, less rigid. Especially with the Ibans. Palm oil has really reduced Kalimantan’s appeal. Many places are now completely uninteresting, and on a human timescale, it’s unfortunately permanent. Illegal gold mining is also a huge problem... very widespread. And they use mercury too. I only go back out of necessity (this fall, if all goes well)... The upside of the region is that it’s still very untouristed and authentic. Dayak culture is experiencing a resurgence of interest, which can sometimes feel artificial and contradictory, but the communal way of life remains warm and welcoming for respectful visitors... The Melayu and Madurese, who are very present, are also lesser-known ethnic groups. But their often very orthodox religious practices make them less accessible to Westerners. That said, if you’re staying for 6 weeks, you’ll have plenty of options, including combining several regions... For practical info, it’s like the rest of Indonesia: easy to find on the spot. You’ll also see lots of photos on Facebook. Some places barely visited by foreign tourists are popular with Indonesians, who love social media. I’m thinking especially of Lake Sentarum. Other ideas: I’ve never had the time, but I’d love to explore the Natuna and Karimata Islands, off West Kalimantan. Natuna, I think there’s a PELNI ferry. Karimata, I have no idea, but it looks amazing! Lemukutan is closer and more accessible.
VI Vikingman ·
Heads up on last-minute info: there’s a terrible drought over there. Water’s really scarce in the villages. And Lake Sentarum is dried up...
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Hello and thanks for this timely update. The Mahakam River is also affected, but upstream near the Malaysian border. Fuel shortages for the canoes, and a 25 kg bag of rice now costs over 1 million Indonesian rupiahs. The dry season is expected to end by late September, right? Our traveler will keep an eye on things depending on her itinerary. Eric.
HENON Eric
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi Hervé, thanks for the info, Oh no, so this really isn’t the time to visit that region. We’d inevitably be consuming water at the expense of their already limited supplies. We’ll have to rethink our plans after gathering more information. Thanks to you too, Eric—this helps us expand our research. Well, travel is full of surprises, even in the planning stage. Long live flexibility!
VI Vikingman ·
Yes, right now Pontianak is also surrounded by "forest" fires (which may be over by the time you arrive) and the air is unbearable: all the schools in the city are closed... For water, it's mostly a comfort issue: there’s still enough to wash (pumped from wells or directly from riverbeds), but the water quality is very poor and the risks to your skin are significant... In short, conditions are even harsher than usual. We’ll still be there at the end of September barring any unforeseen circumstances...
VI Vikingman ·
Yes Eric, it's really tough over there too. This exceptional drought isn't unfortunately limited to Europe...
HE Henon21 Veteran ·
Hi there, Drought in Kalimantan, earthquakes in Sumatra and Flores, and not far away, floods and landslides in northern Vietnam, Laos, Cambodia, etc... you're right: let's keep our spirits up and hit the road. Have a great weekend, everyone!
HENON Eric
VI Vikingman ·
Hi there, Did you end up going after all? I hope not... The situation is disastrous. Two months without rain, insane pollution... Pontianak airport is closed, as are all the schools... Not the time to go sightseeing there. What a nightmare!!!
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi there, We’re off to a good start but beginning in Pangkalan Bun, arrived yesterday. Hope your trip at the end of the month sees better weather—for you and for the locals.
GA Gaiatika Regular ·
Hi, I sent you a private message at the end of August—maybe you didn’t see it? We did end up going, but we’re starting in Pangkalan Bun, arrived yesterday. We actually skipped Pontianak. Hope the weather improves for your trip later this month, for you and for the locals.

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