J1:
Nous arrivons à Marrakech à la nuit tombée avec une petite demi-heure de retard ; direction l'hôtel Immouzer où après une courte ballade dans la médina , nous nous endormons très vite .
Aucun bruit ne vient troubler cette première nuit.
J2:
Très bon petit déjeuner à l'hotel ( aaahh, les crèpes marocaines...), prise en main de la Logan par l'intermédiaire de Medloc et départ pour le Tichka par une route superbe.
De la neige mais le col est ouvert , partout des silhouettes dans les montagnes.
D'où viennent-elles , où vont-elles?
Nous arrivons à Ait Benaddhou par le bas du village, avec la lumière de fin d'après-midi , c'est très chouette .
Arrêt photo-photo et jolie rencontre avec un garçon qui a pour compagnon une iguane et deux petits chiots . Il montre aux gosses comment on peut trouver des fossiles .
Installation au Dar Panoramic chez Brahim et visite du ksar.
Avant il faut traverser l'oued à dos de mulet (un vrai racket organisé😐!)
Au retour , les commerçants sont agréables et nous achetons des petits objets en pierre d'albâtre.
Soupe , coucous , salade d'orange et petits biscuits au dîner : extra-frais , extra -bon.
J3:
Quelques kilomètres plus haut se trouve le petit village de Tamdaght.
On se dégourdit les jambes dans le verger mais ne visitons pas la kasbah.
Direction , la vallée du Dadès .
Nous traversons Ouarzazate . Des centaines de lampadaires bien alignés sur des trottoirs pavés nous accueillent Quelle drôle de ville !C'est plein de restaurants à la mode , de cyber-café :une enclave ou un oasis ( c'est selon !) de modernité .
Ca ne nous plait guère , on s'y arrêtera au retour si on a le temps...
Nous visitons la palmeraie de Skoura avec un guide très agréable ( dont je peux donner les coordonées en MP).
C'est une belle ballade de plus de deux heures au millieu des palmiers dattiers , des champs de fèves , de luzerne, de carottes.Tout est vert, calme , les petits oiseaux chantent , il fait enfin chaud. J'ai beaucoup aimé.
Installation chez Ali dans les gorges du Dadès.
Départ pour une mini randonnée près de l'hotel mais la proximité de l'oued tumultueux ( à cause des fortes pluies qui nous ont précédés )me fiche la trouille .
"déstresse, maman déstresse!" me disent les enfants mais je n'y parviens pas.
J4:
Heureusement , les paysages traversés me font digérer le petit déjeuner (garanti tout industriel) et le prix payé pour la nuit chez Ali .
D'énormes cailloux sont tranquillement posés sur le bithume et l'oued affleure la route.🤪
Plus loin la route en lacets est vertigineuse.
Nous faisons demi-tour (On a parfois regretté de ne pas avoir un4x4) , direction Tineghir où nous installons au camping Azlag (excellent accueil , prix imbattable).
Le patron discute avec un camping -cariste français qui insinue de façon très maladroite que les marocains sont fainéants :"Vous aimez bien vous reposer , on ne vous voit pas souvent travailler!"
On écoute la conversation un peu 😠 mais le patron ne se démonte pas et rétorque
avec tact qu'un ouvrier marocain gagne environ 60dh par jour et qu'avec ça il peut manger et c'est tout .
"En France , vous travaillez et après vous pouvez vous faire plaisir "( genre acheter un camping -car pour sa retraite à environ 50 000 euros).
Rien de grave , mais cette conversation m'a mise mal à l'aise .
Promenade dans la palmeraie et rencontre (dans l'ordre )avec :un gamin collant, une mule désobéissante , un retraité des usines Perrier revenu au bled parce que " si tranquille ici).
Au retour , les gosses investissent un tamaris comme zone de jeu . Nous sommes rejoints par le garagiste d'en face , son frère et son père encapuchonné.
Immédiatement , il entame la conversation et nous raconte sa vie d'écolier ( il a adoré le livre" Sans famille" et nous en parle avec les yeux qui pétillent).
On reste là au bord de la route sous un arbre ( sûrement un arbre à palabres) à discuter une bonne heure , on en oublie qu'on avait prévu d'aller visiter les gorges du Todgha avant la nuit.
Excellent repas , dommage que le patron ait invité un rabatteur.
Je regrette de ne pas avoir prévu deux nuits à Tineghir.
Départ pour Merzouga où j'ai réservé une méharée par l'auberge Sahara.
Sur la route , nous sommes arretés par la police pour excès de vitesse. on sauve la mise par quelques excuses et économise 400dh.
Accueil chaleureux d'Omar et départ pour la ballade à 15h30 à dos de dromadaire. C'est absolument génial ( mais très inconfortable 😕) .
Hanaé résume ça par un " on se croirait dans une carte postale" auquel on ne rajoute rien.
On grimpe jusqu'à la grande dune mais je n'arrive pas à temps pour le coucher de soleil 😊.
Le silence est total :nous passons la meilleure nuit qui soit depuis notre arrivée et (aussi la plus chaude).
J6:
Et re -sur les dromadaires pour le retour.
Il fait très chaud , la douche est la bienvenue et on traine au bord de la piscine jusqu'à midi.
A Alnif , nous visitons une mine d'extraction de fossiles dans la montagne ( s'adresser au magasin Ihmadi Trilobites Center, de vrais passionnés apparemment connus des spécialistes).
Mes trois gamins ( ( y compris le papa)cassent du caillou pendant deux bonnes heures et repartent avec des trilobites à foison . Ils sont ravis .
Il se fait nuit et nous avons du mal à trouver une chambre , nous atterrissons finalement à l' hotel Bougader super moderne et que je ne conseille pas.
J7:
Déjeuner à Adgz sur une placette agréable.
Des commerçants nous proposent de troquer des vêtements d'enfants ou des médicaments .
Arrêt à Ouarzazate où nous visitons la kasbah de Taourirt . Ce n'est pas la peine de payer l'entrée :on n'y voit pas grand chose, c'est cher et les guides sont désagréables .
Retour à Ait Benaddhou . Nuit dans une auberge tenu par deux français dont je finirai bien par retrouver la carte! Rapport qualité prix imbattable.
J8:
Retour sur Marrakech . En une semaine , les paysages du Tichka ont changé :il n' y a plus de neige , les amandiers sont vraiment en fleurs et les touristes sont plus nombreux.
Nous nous perdons en voiture dans la médina jusqu'à ce que nous nous fassions arrêter par la police une nouvelle fois. Elle nous réclame 400 dhs pour avoir soi-disant griller un stop .On parlemante de looooooongues minutes jusqu'à ce qu'ils acceptent un bakschih de 10 euros .Au moment où tout allait s'arranger , la moutarde me monte au nez et je les menace d'écrire une lettre à leur supérieur !
Très mauvaise idée de ma part : ils établissent immédiatement une contravention au prix fort. Dernier recours : je prends ma fille dans mes bras et fais semblant de pleurer . Et ça marche.Ouf!
Déjeuner sur la place , provisions de patisseries à la patisserie des Princes et départ pour l'aéroport.
L'avion aura plus de deux heures de retard à cause de la grève des contrôleurs.
Super voyage , accueil partout bienveillant mais il a manqué 2 jours à notre périple qui nous auraient permis de profiter d'endroits où on était vraiment bien ( Tineghir et Merzouga).
Budget : 1600 euros pour nous 4 ( dont 860 euros de billets).
merci d'avoir pris le temps de faire le récit de votre périple, ça sert aux futurs voyageurs!
Je serai éventuellement intéressée par le nom de votre guide (en MP) pour la palmeraie de skoura...ce n'est pas les propositions qui manquent (surtout par MP) mais je préfère de loin un guide "teste" par un vfiste!
bonjour, je pars ce soir pour Casa et pour les mêmes raisons que que mon voisins du dessus, j'aimerais avoir aussi les coord. de votre guide pour la palmeraie de Skoura.Merci André
mais pourquoi un guide pour la palmeraie de Skoura ???? c'est surement parmi les pires qui existent , ceux qui insistent lourdement devant la kasbah d'Amerdil, et qui finissent obligatoirement en boutique !!
Un plaisir , cette palmeraie , on part , face à la montagne , et on revient avec la montagne dans le dos, en comptant les 1, 2 ou 3 oueds qu'on a traversé.
Pour ceux qui insisteraient, chaque auberge peut en procurer, pour 100 dh la demi journée. pas besoin de s'échanger les coordonnées , ce sont les mêmes.
bonjour.
D'accord avec raoulx;pas besoin de guide pour une simple balade.Toutefois guide indispensable si on veut faire le tour et visiter , en utilisant sa voiture, les multiples kasbahs, éparpillées dans la palmeraie.C'est ce que je fait à chaque fois que je visite skoura et dernièrement en décembre avec un guide compétent recommandé par le gérant de la kasbah Amerdil.
lien pour partager des images des kasbahs de skoura et région.
bon voyage.
Avec deux enfants , un mauvais sens de l'orientation et surtout des crues dues à de fortes pluies, je préfère prendre un guide qui ne nous a d'ailleurs pas du tout harcelés .
Merci beaucoup pour ce récit fort pertinent ! Nous semblons partager bien de semblables sentiments et avons fréquenté de mêmes lieux .
A travers celui ci je me suis remémoré de biens beaux moments ... Merci ! Merci et Merci !
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Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
Hi,
This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car.
Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.
Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!!
Thanks
Hi everyone,
We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route.
Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
