Bonjour à tous
Nous avons nos billets pour la Mongolie en aout 2027 (et oui, les prendre très à l'avance coute moins cher...).
Nous cherchons des contacts d'agence locale sérieuse qui pourrait nous aider à organiser notre circuit, si possible avec un interlocuteur en français. Déjà voir ce qui est possible de faire en 2 semaines, à quel prix, sachant qu'on souhaite faire à minima le desert de Gobi et le parc Tereji.
D'un côté nous souhaitons etre autonome pour certaines choses (le logement à oulan bator...) mais etre encadré pour le reste (achat vol intérieur, chauffeur, visites, transferts....) Si vous avez déjà effectué un voyage avec une agence qui vous a comblé, alors je veux bien ses coordonnées. MErci beaucoup
se rendre en Afghanistan
by Marie91
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
voyager a plein temps c est un travail amigo!!
y a pas longtemps j ai fait 3 tonneaux au kirghizstan, j ai failli casser ma pipe.
apres l accident je me suis traine jusqu a la route et ai fait du stop, je suis arrive a bon port a 11 h du soir, et en vrac.
ensuite, je me suis fait virer des pamirs par le kgb parce que je n avais pas de permis.
et la je suis en afghanistan, a etre oblige de bouffer de la viande, moi qui suis vegetarien, parce qu il n y a rien d autre...
c est pire que bosser pour sur!!!
par contre je suis etonne, il y a maintenant des internet cafes en afghanistan et ils marchent pas trop mal, c est d un d eux que j ecris maintenant.
Vol a partir de Francfort sur Ariana.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Tout dans la vie est une affaire de choix. Ça commence par la tétine ou le téton, ça se termine par le chêne ou le sapin. *Everything in life is a matter of choice. It starts with "pacifier or nipple", it ends with "oak or pine". Pierre Desproges.
Bonsoir, Naps. C'est bien de voyager comme cela à plein temps!
Je comprends tout à fait Amenosys, car je me suis déjà vue déconseiller vivement des régions ( Sinaï et sud Algérien) par des européens vivant respectivement en Egypte et en Algérie. Les motifs évoqués sont tout à fait pertinents, mais quand j'y vais, et je vais régulièrement au Sahara, je ne me suis jamais sentie particulièrement en insécurité, en tous cas pas plus qu'à Paris.
Comme quoi, les informations données aux expatriés ne sont pas toujours les mêmes que celles que nous percevons.
Ceci dit, le plus gros danger dont on m'a parlé concernant l'Aghanistan sont les mines anti-personnel: c'est un afghan habitant en France qui m'en a parlé et cela m'a été confirmé par la suite.
Bonne route
Je comprends tout à fait Amenosys, car je me suis déjà vue déconseiller vivement des régions ( Sinaï et sud Algérien) par des européens vivant respectivement en Egypte et en Algérie. Les motifs évoqués sont tout à fait pertinents, mais quand j'y vais, et je vais régulièrement au Sahara, je ne me suis jamais sentie particulièrement en insécurité, en tous cas pas plus qu'à Paris.
Comme quoi, les informations données aux expatriés ne sont pas toujours les mêmes que celles que nous percevons.
Ceci dit, le plus gros danger dont on m'a parlé concernant l'Aghanistan sont les mines anti-personnel: c'est un afghan habitant en France qui m'en a parlé et cela m'a été confirmé par la suite.
Bonne route
les mines oui ce st clair, il faut faire super gaffe.
il y a aussi l approche des elctions.
j etais a balkh il y a 2 jours et la police est arrivee et m a fait comprendre qu il vallait mieux partir.
j ai ensuite demande a des locaux pourquoi et ils m ont dit que balkh est un bled pashtoune, c est a dire pro taliban.
je suis par contre d accord avec cette expat qui dit que ca craint pour des femmes seules.
jai encore rencontre une jap qui s est faitre peloter en peline rue, elle a pris peur et a quitte le pays la pauvre.
le plus gros danger:la bouffe.
i-no-mma-ble!!!!!!!!:-)))))
bon voila quelques infos que j ai mises sur un site en anglais, je me suis dit qu il n y avait pas de raison que les francais n en profitent pas.
c est en anglais, sorry, mais c est pas dur a comprendre...
some updates about tajikistan/afghanistan: in dushanbe you can withdraw money at the atm(one at the airport, one at the tajikistan hotel and some scattered in the city), max 600 somonis. you can get us dollars as well, but they charge 2 % so it s better to take somonis and then to change it into dollars at any money changer since they have very good rates. if you start early it s possible to go from dushanbe to mazar in one day, there are corollas that leave from kunduz until late in the afternoon(400 afg). in mazar you can sleep in the aria hotel next to hazrat ali shrine for 200 afg. in kabul, you can withdraw money at the standart chartered bank in wasir akbar khan in front of the shandiz hotel, max 45000 afg. you can get usd as well, but like in dushanbe they take 2 % so you would better go to the money changer in front of the bank. the cheap hotels in kabul don t take foreigners any more so as far as i know the cheapest options now are the park residence hotel(pul e bagh e omomi)or the mustafa hotel, both cost 15 usd or a bit less if you are alone and around 10 per head if you are 2 or 3. if you need to fly out of the country: ariana airline(www.flyariana.com)flies twice a week to new delhi(tued/frid, 10500 afg), once a week to amritsar(sat, around 8000 afg)and daily to dubai(8500 afg). indian airlines flies thrice a week to delhi(tued/turd/sat, 210 usd). there are as well gam air flights to dubai for around 170 usd. regarding visas: you can get an indian visa easily, but it takes 5 days to proceed and cost 35 usd for a transit visa(they say they give you 3 days but if you insist you can get 7)and 65 usd for a tourist via. i have been to the pakistan embassy but they told me that they don t issue visas anymore unless you are working for a ngo. they told me as well that the jalalabad consulate was closed. when i was in kandahar i heard about an aussie who could get a 1 month visa there, in 2 days. but it s kandahar... and what about kandahar by the way? well, to be honnest it s a rather uninteresting town to my opinion. the city in itself is not nice and there s not much to see apart from 2 mosques where i didn t try to enter since i guessed that they are off limits to non muslims. i have to say that i didn t feel any aggressivity from the people, they just seemed surprised to see a white face with blond long hairs which is understandable:-))) the road from herat is not very interesting either, it s flat, arid, very hot and there s noting to see. the new road is not finished yet, so it s a long and dusty haul through desolated lanscape. the road to ghazni, same story except that the road is in good condition, but ghazni is nicer than kandahar, they have at least 2 forteresses and nice architecture when you go out from the center. the road from ghazni to kabul is nice, a bit montagnous with many beautiful villages along the way. if you have to sleep in kandahar you can try the khyber hotel at 100 afg if you can find it(i didn t), otherwise molwi nasser hotel(next to the kabul and herat bus stations)has rooms for 200/300 afg(bath outside/inside). don t get me wrong, i don t recommed to anybody to go there. people who go there are people like me who don t have time or will to take the central road and who trust their lucky star. for me it was fine, but who knows what will happen tomorrow, if you go there you have to bear in mind that it s a very sensitive area and that hotels have no security, anyone could enter and put a bomb. so i forewarned you, if you go there it will be at your own risks!! hope this helps...
some updates about tajikistan/afghanistan: in dushanbe you can withdraw money at the atm(one at the airport, one at the tajikistan hotel and some scattered in the city), max 600 somonis. you can get us dollars as well, but they charge 2 % so it s better to take somonis and then to change it into dollars at any money changer since they have very good rates. if you start early it s possible to go from dushanbe to mazar in one day, there are corollas that leave from kunduz until late in the afternoon(400 afg). in mazar you can sleep in the aria hotel next to hazrat ali shrine for 200 afg. in kabul, you can withdraw money at the standart chartered bank in wasir akbar khan in front of the shandiz hotel, max 45000 afg. you can get usd as well, but like in dushanbe they take 2 % so you would better go to the money changer in front of the bank. the cheap hotels in kabul don t take foreigners any more so as far as i know the cheapest options now are the park residence hotel(pul e bagh e omomi)or the mustafa hotel, both cost 15 usd or a bit less if you are alone and around 10 per head if you are 2 or 3. if you need to fly out of the country: ariana airline(www.flyariana.com)flies twice a week to new delhi(tued/frid, 10500 afg), once a week to amritsar(sat, around 8000 afg)and daily to dubai(8500 afg). indian airlines flies thrice a week to delhi(tued/turd/sat, 210 usd). there are as well gam air flights to dubai for around 170 usd. regarding visas: you can get an indian visa easily, but it takes 5 days to proceed and cost 35 usd for a transit visa(they say they give you 3 days but if you insist you can get 7)and 65 usd for a tourist via. i have been to the pakistan embassy but they told me that they don t issue visas anymore unless you are working for a ngo. they told me as well that the jalalabad consulate was closed. when i was in kandahar i heard about an aussie who could get a 1 month visa there, in 2 days. but it s kandahar... and what about kandahar by the way? well, to be honnest it s a rather uninteresting town to my opinion. the city in itself is not nice and there s not much to see apart from 2 mosques where i didn t try to enter since i guessed that they are off limits to non muslims. i have to say that i didn t feel any aggressivity from the people, they just seemed surprised to see a white face with blond long hairs which is understandable:-))) the road from herat is not very interesting either, it s flat, arid, very hot and there s noting to see. the new road is not finished yet, so it s a long and dusty haul through desolated lanscape. the road to ghazni, same story except that the road is in good condition, but ghazni is nicer than kandahar, they have at least 2 forteresses and nice architecture when you go out from the center. the road from ghazni to kabul is nice, a bit montagnous with many beautiful villages along the way. if you have to sleep in kandahar you can try the khyber hotel at 100 afg if you can find it(i didn t), otherwise molwi nasser hotel(next to the kabul and herat bus stations)has rooms for 200/300 afg(bath outside/inside). don t get me wrong, i don t recommed to anybody to go there. people who go there are people like me who don t have time or will to take the central road and who trust their lucky star. for me it was fine, but who knows what will happen tomorrow, if you go there you have to bear in mind that it s a very sensitive area and that hotels have no security, anyone could enter and put a bomb. so i forewarned you, if you go there it will be at your own risks!! hope this helps...
"J'ai rencontré aussi un français qui avait voaygé à cheval avec unpote à lui depuis... Osh ! à travers le Tajikistan, le Wakhan, Badakhshan."
Les frontieres entre ces pays elles sont passables avec un cheval? Tu avais eu le temps de discuter avec lui savoir comment il avait fait pour ce genre de details? Passeur, gros backchich, temps ou aucun problemes?
Merki :)
Les frontieres entre ces pays elles sont passables avec un cheval? Tu avais eu le temps de discuter avec lui savoir comment il avait fait pour ce genre de details? Passeur, gros backchich, temps ou aucun problemes?
Merki :)
'Le vrai miracle, c'est la foi des hommes..'
naps:
people like me ../.. who trust their lucky star.
for me it was fine, but who knows what will happen tomorrow, if you go there you have to bear in mind that it s a very sensitive area and that hotels have no security, anyone could enter and put a bomb. so i forewarned you, if you go there it will be at your own risks!!
Tu fais bien de préciser en effet.
Quelques nouvelles du front:
KABOUL, 3 septembre (XINHUANET) -- Les deux corps retrouvés dans la province de Kandahar (sud de l'Afghanistan) ont été identifiés, après avoir été autopsiés, comme étant ceux des deux touristes japonais disparus depuis presqu'un mois dans cette région, a confirmé samedi une source médicale./.. "Le couple, après avoir subi des tortures, a été tué par balles ", a ajouté cette source. http://www.french.xinhuanet.com/french/2005-09/04/content_157765.htm
Ca fait donc maintenant cinq touristes assassinés ces deux dernières années ..
KABOUL (AFP) - Les forces afghanes et étrangères ont découvert le cadavre d'un homme supposé être le Britannique enlevé mercredi dans l'ouest de l'Afghanistan, a annoncé samedi le Foreign Office dans un communiqué reçu à Kaboul, alors que les talibans ont indiqué avoir décidé de le tuer http://fr.news.yahoo.com/050903/202/4keno.html
Marie91:
Ceci dit, le plus gros danger dont on m'a parlé concernant l'Aghanistan sont les mines anti-personnel: c'est un afghan habitant en France qui m'en a parlé et cela m'a été confirmé par la suite
La recette est simple: tu renonces au trekking et autres escapades solitaires dans la nature. Le risque de marcher sur une mine dans une ville est très limité.
Les mauvaise rencontres ( voir plus haut ) son moins faciles à éviter.
people like me ../.. who trust their lucky star.
for me it was fine, but who knows what will happen tomorrow, if you go there you have to bear in mind that it s a very sensitive area and that hotels have no security, anyone could enter and put a bomb. so i forewarned you, if you go there it will be at your own risks!!
Tu fais bien de préciser en effet.
Quelques nouvelles du front:
KABOUL, 3 septembre (XINHUANET) -- Les deux corps retrouvés dans la province de Kandahar (sud de l'Afghanistan) ont été identifiés, après avoir été autopsiés, comme étant ceux des deux touristes japonais disparus depuis presqu'un mois dans cette région, a confirmé samedi une source médicale./.. "Le couple, après avoir subi des tortures, a été tué par balles ", a ajouté cette source. http://www.french.xinhuanet.com/french/2005-09/04/content_157765.htm
Ca fait donc maintenant cinq touristes assassinés ces deux dernières années ..
KABOUL (AFP) - Les forces afghanes et étrangères ont découvert le cadavre d'un homme supposé être le Britannique enlevé mercredi dans l'ouest de l'Afghanistan, a annoncé samedi le Foreign Office dans un communiqué reçu à Kaboul, alors que les talibans ont indiqué avoir décidé de le tuer http://fr.news.yahoo.com/050903/202/4keno.html
Marie91:
Ceci dit, le plus gros danger dont on m'a parlé concernant l'Aghanistan sont les mines anti-personnel: c'est un afghan habitant en France qui m'en a parlé et cela m'a été confirmé par la suite
La recette est simple: tu renonces au trekking et autres escapades solitaires dans la nature. Le risque de marcher sur une mine dans une ville est très limité.
Les mauvaise rencontres ( voir plus haut ) son moins faciles à éviter.
“I'm sure tourists would leave Somalia alive and I'm hopeful they wouldn't be kidnapped. At least, we would try to make sure they were not kidnapped, although it can happen.”
Somalia's minister of tourism Abdi Jimale Osman.
ben oui askar, c est ca.
l anglais il c est fait enlever dans l ouest, donc vers herat qui etait pourtant repute ok.
il y a toujours un risque a aller dans ces pays, et encore plus pour des femmes seules pour en revenir a ce qu on disait plus haut.
si on veut pas ce genre de risque ben y a assez d autres pays dans le monde....
Les frontieres entre ces pays elles sont passables avec un cheval?
Tu avais eu le temps de discuter avec lui savoir comment il avait fait pour ce genre de details?
Passeur, gros backchich, temps ou aucun problemes?
Apparement oui, mais si je me souviens bien ils avaient préparé leur périple pendant quelques années...
De plus, d'après ce qu'il m'avait dit, les gens hallucinaient tellement de voir deux francais traverser les Pamirs à cheval qu'ils n'ont eu quasimment aucun problème pour les passages.
En tous cas ce qui est certain c'est que c'est un genre de voyage qui se prépare minutieusement.
Apparement oui, mais si je me souviens bien ils avaient préparé leur périple pendant quelques années...
De plus, d'après ce qu'il m'avait dit, les gens hallucinaient tellement de voir deux francais traverser les Pamirs à cheval qu'ils n'ont eu quasimment aucun problème pour les passages.
En tous cas ce qui est certain c'est que c'est un genre de voyage qui se prépare minutieusement.
amensys, j'aime pas la maniere dont tu soupconne les gens de mentir, j'étais a peshawar au pakistan au mois d'avril-mai, et ben il y avait plein de voyageurs qui partait seul au pakistan.ils ont fait leur visa a peshawar super vite, certains sont reparti par l'iran...je t'envoie des que je l'ai sous la main le site de mon pote qui y a été avec des centaines de photos...y avait meme une fille seule qui est allait partir avec son petit voile rose transparent et son maquillage...quelle pétasse ! mais quelle intrépide. elle était super marrante. si quelqu'un l'a croisée, elle est reconnaissable, une jolie blonde...j'espere qu'elle se porte bien.
au fait naps, comment fais tu pour voyager a tant plein...tu exportes du charas ou quoi ? ;)
isa
"La liberté de la graine réside dans l'accomplissement de sa nature qui est de devenir un arbre"
Rabindranath Tagora
Sécurité?
Tout d'abord un fait: la principale cause de mortalité des étrangers en A est les accidents de la route.
Ensuite, il faut être conscient qu'un voyageur prend moins de risques qu'un membre d'ONG car il est plus mobile (pas de déplacement/logement fixe).
Reprenons le cas des 5 touristes morts en deux ans:
* les japonais. Tous les 15 jours, on parle d'actions des talibans dans le district de Spin Boldak. Y mettre les pieds est excessivement risqué.
* l'italien à moto: sur la route de Kandahar, en circulant seul
== > le tout dans le Sud, dans des régions pas recommandées du tout
Reste le cas des deux voyageurs lapidés au Nord de Kaboul. On a parlé de trafic, la situation n'est pas très claire mais s'isoler avec des afghans dont on sait peu de choses dans un lieu à l'écart n'est pas des plus prudents. En ce qui concerne les mines, les zones minées sont principalemnt le long des routes et dans les endroits qui servirent de ligne de front. On peut marcher en A mais il faut suivre les sentiers, ou alors s'être bien renseigné auparavant, c'est tout. Combien d'étrangers ont sauté sur une mine depuis 3 ans? A part les mines posées pour préparer des attentats contre l'ISAF ou les forces US, je n'en ai pas entendu parler. Le problème des mines est réel mais les victimes sont les plus souvent des enfants ou alors des nomades.
De manière générale, la sécu en A (j'en suis à mon troisième voyage), c'est ne pas aller n'importe où ni n'importe comment.
Pour finir, je suis énervé par ceux dont l'unique contribution sur ce forum est de "poster" des articles sur l'insécurité ou des news négatives comme si ils voulaient systématiquement dissuader les autres voyageurs d'y aller. Histoire de dire être le seul à y être allé? Quelle blague! Mieux vaut avoir un vrai discours sur la sécurité, c'est plus utile à tous. Bon voyage, en faisant attention!
== > le tout dans le Sud, dans des régions pas recommandées du tout
Reste le cas des deux voyageurs lapidés au Nord de Kaboul. On a parlé de trafic, la situation n'est pas très claire mais s'isoler avec des afghans dont on sait peu de choses dans un lieu à l'écart n'est pas des plus prudents. En ce qui concerne les mines, les zones minées sont principalemnt le long des routes et dans les endroits qui servirent de ligne de front. On peut marcher en A mais il faut suivre les sentiers, ou alors s'être bien renseigné auparavant, c'est tout. Combien d'étrangers ont sauté sur une mine depuis 3 ans? A part les mines posées pour préparer des attentats contre l'ISAF ou les forces US, je n'en ai pas entendu parler. Le problème des mines est réel mais les victimes sont les plus souvent des enfants ou alors des nomades.
De manière générale, la sécu en A (j'en suis à mon troisième voyage), c'est ne pas aller n'importe où ni n'importe comment.
Pour finir, je suis énervé par ceux dont l'unique contribution sur ce forum est de "poster" des articles sur l'insécurité ou des news négatives comme si ils voulaient systématiquement dissuader les autres voyageurs d'y aller. Histoire de dire être le seul à y être allé? Quelle blague! Mieux vaut avoir un vrai discours sur la sécurité, c'est plus utile à tous. Bon voyage, en faisant attention!
d accord avec route, le principal danger ce sont les accidents, j ai encore un doigt dans le platre apres avoir failli cassre ma pipe en 3 tonneaux au kirghizstan!!!
pour les japs, ben oui, ils ont cherche les ennuis, ils sont comme ca les japs, ils vont n importe ou, n importe quand et n importe comment, sans se renseigner sur rien, et se faire trop copain avec les locaux ce qui peut resulter en vols et autres...
quant aux ong, les pachtounes peuvent pas les blairer.
pourquoi?
parce qu en afg comme ailleurs ils se payent des 4/4 luxueux, claquent la plus grande partie du fric en frais de fonctionnement princiers, montent des projets souvent foireux dans le seul but de recevoir du fric de l occident et de justifier leurs depenses(et aussi de faire genre ils font quelque chose)et ont aussi des fois d autres buts genre propagande.
je les ai vus a l oeuvre en indonesie et la c est facile, les locaux sont non violents.
mais en afg c est pas pareil, les mecs ce sont des guerriers et ils leur tirent dessus, ben oui c est comme ca, ils ont qu a faire leur boulot correctement.
d ailleurs en afg faut toujours preciser que tu travailles pas et que t es pas avec une ong.
tu precises bien que tu es moussafir(voyageur)et ca passe tres bien...
Naps,
C'est un peu rapide au sujet des ONG. Il y a de tout dans les ONG en Afghanistan et la plupart sont des gens engagés qui font du bon boulot. L'Etat Afghan n'a aucune structure et pas les moyens de reconstruire ou d'organiser.
Les Afghans ont le sentiment que les choses ne vont pas assez vite et la hantise de l'invasion aidant, ils deviennent méfiants et ceux d'autant plus que des politiciens comme Ramazan Bachardoust ont tendance à grossir le trait (jusqu'à dire bon débarras après le départ de MSF, consécutif à l'assassinat de 5 de ses membres dans la province de Badghis). Il y aussi la cohorte des Afghans corrompus et/ou puissants qui estiment que les ONG les empêchent de capter l'argent de la reconstruction à leur profit ou les privent indirectement de leur pouvoir. Les Afghans sensés ont tendance à réclamer plus de contrôle, de coordination mais pas forcément de mettre les ONG dehors.
Les Afghans ont le sentiment que les choses ne vont pas assez vite et la hantise de l'invasion aidant, ils deviennent méfiants et ceux d'autant plus que des politiciens comme Ramazan Bachardoust ont tendance à grossir le trait (jusqu'à dire bon débarras après le départ de MSF, consécutif à l'assassinat de 5 de ses membres dans la province de Badghis). Il y aussi la cohorte des Afghans corrompus et/ou puissants qui estiment que les ONG les empêchent de capter l'argent de la reconstruction à leur profit ou les privent indirectement de leur pouvoir. Les Afghans sensés ont tendance à réclamer plus de contrôle, de coordination mais pas forcément de mettre les ONG dehors.
ce que j en dis route, c est ce que j ai entendu de la bouche des afghans, pour le reste je sais pas dans le acs particulier de l afghanistan.
par contre en indonesie je l ai bien vu de mes yeux, j ai fait une mission tout seul en independant en aceh et le comportement des ongs la bas m a ecoeure...
parcontre quand je parle des ongs je veux dire les gros trucs, ceux qui dependent de l onu, ce sont eux les pires.
les petites ongs cest different, ce sont souvent des gens devoues avec peu de moyens et ceux la je leur tire mon chapeau bien sur!
Un tuyau pour ceux qui veulent des infos sur l'A. le Ceredaf, assoc qui organise des conférences et diffuse de l'information sur l'A publie un bulletin mensuel: tout ce qui parait dans la presse sur l'A, et pas seulement la presse française: des extraits de journaux sur le web, de journaux paki traduits, de la presse int, etc... Une bonne douzaine de pages par mois et plein d'infos inédite. On peut les recevoir par mail et cela ne coute que 20 EUR par an. Les contacter?
Ceredaf 16 passage de la main d'or Paris 11 tel 01 43 57 07 44
Sinon, une "pub" pour la vente d'artisanat de l'association Afrane (mêmes locaux que le Ceredaf) dont l'argent ira pour la construction d'une école pour filles à Djalalabad. AFRANEorganise sa vente annuelle d’artisanat 1er au 11 décembre 2005 Ouvert : samedi et dimanche de 11:30h à 19h du lundi au vendredi de 14h à 19h AFRANE, 16 passage de la Main d'Or - Paris 11ème (Métro: Ledru-Rollin, Bastille, Voltaire – Bus: 61, 76, 86) Contact tél : 01 43 55 63 50
Sinon, une "pub" pour la vente d'artisanat de l'association Afrane (mêmes locaux que le Ceredaf) dont l'argent ira pour la construction d'une école pour filles à Djalalabad. AFRANEorganise sa vente annuelle d’artisanat 1er au 11 décembre 2005 Ouvert : samedi et dimanche de 11:30h à 19h du lundi au vendredi de 14h à 19h AFRANE, 16 passage de la Main d'Or - Paris 11ème (Métro: Ledru-Rollin, Bastille, Voltaire – Bus: 61, 76, 86) Contact tél : 01 43 55 63 50
ek,
j'ai appris le farsi avec la methode assimil et j'ai compris les gens, que ce soit dans un village comme a Ishkashim, ou dans une grande ville, comme Mazar. Les accents peuvent etre passablement different, mais en principe comprehensibles. Route connait mieux la region que moi, il pourra mieux te repondre.
Cette remarque s'applique aussi au tadjik, modulo quelques mots differents ( vert ne se dit pas sabz mais qabouz...), par contre les languages du Pamir sont TRES different.
j'ai appris le farsi avec la methode assimil et j'ai compris les gens, que ce soit dans un village comme a Ishkashim, ou dans une grande ville, comme Mazar. Les accents peuvent etre passablement different, mais en principe comprehensibles. Route connait mieux la region que moi, il pourra mieux te repondre.
Cette remarque s'applique aussi au tadjik, modulo quelques mots differents ( vert ne se dit pas sabz mais qabouz...), par contre les languages du Pamir sont TRES different.
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Hello!
We headed to Uzbekistan at the end of February 2026. The main goal of the trip was to explore the mountains on skis, but of course, we did some backpacking along the way too!
For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.
Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!
After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.
As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.
I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)
If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!
For skiing, we checked out two spots: first, the Chimgan and Amirsoy region. The infrastructure is brand new (hotels, ski lifts, restaurants). We managed some great tours, especially in Amirsoy, where the gondola gave us a real boost and let us go even further.
Next, we moved on to Gilan, just a stone’s throw from the Tajik border. The scenery was completely different—wild and rugged. We stayed in a super cozy little guesthouse, learned how to make Plov, and ate like kings. Despite the unpredictable weather, we had amazing ski tours. The villagers got a kick out of seeing us walk around with our skis on our shoulders—it’s probably not something they see every day!
After our skiing buddies headed home, we explored Khiva, Moynaq, Bukhara, Samarkand, and Tashkent before flying back.
As usual, we didn’t plan anything in advance, and traveling off-season was definitely the way to go. There was plenty of space everywhere. We traveled by train (except for Moynaq). It’s super easy—you buy tickets through the app, and you don’t even need to print them.
I couldn’t figure out how to post the links to the three videos I made from this trip, but you can find my channel in my profile. Have a look around! ;-)
If you’ve got any questions, feel free to reach out—I’d be happy to answer as best as I can!
Recent information about this country is scarce, so I’m starting this post in addition to my travel journal to help fill the gap.
- Which airline from Europe?
Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.
The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.
- Bishkek Airport
The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.
Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)
There are taxis and a bus available.
- Entry Requirements
No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.
- Currency
The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...
You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.
The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.
Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.
Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.
- Paying
Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.
But it doesn’t always work.
So always carry cash with you!
If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.
- Cost of Living
It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...
On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!
Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).
In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).
The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.
- Getting Around
I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.
Personally, I chose to rent a car.
If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.
Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...
An international driver’s permit is required.
Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).
Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.
Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.
If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.
Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...
Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).
There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.
Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).
Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!
Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.
A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!
Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!
Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)
- Eating
I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.
I was both wrong and right.
Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...
Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.
Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.
Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.
If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.
On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!
And alcohol?
It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).
The deadly specialty?
White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.
- Accommodation
In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.
Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.
Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).
These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.
So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!
Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.
Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!
- Climate
I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.
I packed too many warm clothes...
If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.
A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.
It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.
Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.
In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)
- Communication
I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.
We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.
To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.
Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.
Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.
The police too...
- Religion
There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.
In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.
In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.
For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.
There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...
You can find the detailed account of the trip here.
- Which airline from Europe?
Turkish Airlines seems like an excellent option. The price is very reasonable (just over 500 €), the layover isn’t too long, the in-flight comfort is decent (great movie selection), and the planes are modern. Plus, the price automatically includes 30 kilos of luggage, which is perfect for campers.
The downside: the outrageous prices at Istanbul Airport.
- Bishkek Airport
The airport is under full reconstruction. It’s chaotic. There are SIM card vendors upon arrival, but no currency exchange or ATMs in the baggage claim area. You’ll find those in the departures section, which means you have to exit and re-enter under the current setup.
Personally, I pre-booked a VTC with my hotel for the transfer to the city. (Prices vary depending on the hotel’s standard—1200 soms for mine.)
There are taxis and a bus available.
- Entry Requirements
No visa is required for French citizens for stays of up to 30 days.
- Currency
The currency is the som, and the conversion is easy—just divide by 100...
You can get soms by exchanging euros (dollars are useless) or by withdrawing from an ATM. Some ATMs charge fees. Those from Mbank and Optimabank are fee-free.
The maximum withdrawal is usually 20,000 soms.
Bills come in 5000, 1000, 500, 200, 100, 50, and 20 soms.
Coins: 10, 5, 3, and 1 som.
- Paying
Card payments are accepted in supermarkets like Globus, some restaurants, gas stations of major chains (Bishkek Petroleum, Partner Neft, Red Petroleum), some hotels, national park entrances, tolls, etc.
But it doesn’t always work.
So always carry cash with you!
If the card works, great—otherwise, it’s back to the old days of wads of bills.
- Cost of Living
It’s really cheap (gas, affordable restaurants even at a decent standard, hotels, souvenirs, fruits, vegetables, water, bread...). For example, a lagman costs only 3.20 €, fixing a flat tire is 3.5 €, a full hour-long wash for a filthy 4x4 is 6 €, washing a big bag of laundry is 3 €, and a liter of 95-octane gas is 0.86 €...
On the pricier side: guesthouses and meals in guesthouses. The value for money is poor. I paid 40 € for a mediocre room with a very basic shared bathroom, while a double with AC, private bathroom, and fridge in a non-touristy hotel cost 20 €... Meals in guesthouses are the worst I’ve eaten and often the most expensive. Plus, they’re very light—don’t expect to fill up after a long day of hiking!
Car rentals are also quite expensive (70 $ per day for a RAV4 in my case).
In short, for two people, excluding accommodation and car rental, we spent an average of 45 € per day (groceries, restaurants, guesthouse dinners, souvenirs, paid activities, gas).
The trip cost us 2200 € per person all-inclusive for 3 weeks on the ground. Roughly 1/4 for the flight, 1/4 for the car, 1/4 for accommodation, and 1/4 for everything else.
- Getting Around
I’ve met cyclists, motorcyclists, people renting cars, those who drove their own vehicles from Europe, and others using public transport and taxis.
Personally, I chose to rent a car.
If you’re not planning long hikes or multi-day horse treks, it’s a great option for exploring the country.
Each car rental company has its own list of forbidden tracks. Make sure your planned route is allowed! Don’t think about ignoring this—vehicles are equipped with GPS trackers...
An international driver’s permit is required.
Police and speed cameras are everywhere, so it’s best to respect the signs (daytime running lights, seatbelts, 40-60 km/h in populated areas, 90 km/h on roads, zero tolerance for alcohol).
Locals have a unique driving style, and it can be dangerous on main roads (they overtake recklessly...). Like in Greece, South Africa, or Malta, a two-lane road is treated as a three-lane one. You pull over to let others pass or to let oncoming traffic overtake.
Without a car (at least a pseudo-4x4), you won’t be able to go everywhere. This country is a nature destination, but nature isn’t always accessible by public transport.
If a spot is near a road, great—the bus will get you almost to the door. Otherwise, you’ll need to hire an agency or take a taxi.
Cyclists will face steep climbs and dust. I’d advise avoiding main roads as much as possible—traffic isn’t on your side...
Motorcyclists will also eat a lot of dust and should research gas stations along their route (this advice also applies to vehicles running on 95-octane).
There’s a 95-octane pump in Kazarman and Gulcha.
Bikes and motorcycles have an advantage over cars, even 4x4s, as they can access some very remote tracks that other vehicles can’t (hikers and horses can obviously take them too!).
Be careful: some areas require a permit (border zones). Research this well in advance—the formalities don’t take an hour or even a day!
Be warned: Google Maps is completely unreliable (it shows roads that don’t exist, routes you through difficult tracks instead of paved roads, etc.). It’s essential to download Maps.me in advance. This app is much more reliable for this country, works offline, and is handy for hiking navigation.
A reminder: horseback riding is like cycling... If you’re not used to it or naturally padded in the right places, your backside will suffer in no time!
Think carefully before embarking on a multi-day trek!
Finally, this country is a kingdom of construction... The Chinese have taken over the market to improve truck circulation and are paving everywhere. (Good news: the Kazarman-Osh section via the tunnel is finally open in summer, even if the road isn’t quite finished.)
- Eating
I had prejudices about Kyrgyz food.
I was both wrong and right.
Supermarkets don’t offer much that’s appealing for picnics. It’s cheap, filling food, full of junk, and not gourmet. If you follow Yuka, I think you’ll be on a diet the whole trip. Bringing some pâté, sausages, or freeze-dried meals for certain nights is a good idea...
Guesthouse dinners consist of the eternal cucumber-tomato salad, a soup, and a light noodle or rice dish where you’ll be searching for the meat... Usually tough and unidentifiable. Beef? The bread is stale, and there’s no dessert or fruit.
Breakfasts always revolve around eggs or porridge... The homemade jam is usually good.
Tea is the number one drink, followed by kompot (a fruit-based drink), Coke, and Fanta.
If you want real coffee, bring your own—it’s very rare.
On the other hand, you eat well in restaurants. Lagman (homemade noodles, vegetables, spices, and usually beef), crispy eggplant, kuurdak (a kind of lamb stew with potatoes), kebabs, plov (pilaf rice with onions, carrots, and meat), and rainbow trout... For dessert? Nada!
And alcohol?
It’s available in all Globus stores: beer, wine, spirits, and you can consume your purchases in some guesthouses (depending on the owner’s religious tolerance). It’s also available in some restaurants (Bishkek, Karakol, Osh...).
The deadly specialty?
White fermented milk balls called kurut. If you think a raw-milk camembert is strong, steer clear! This is more like an old, dry, spicy goat cheese.
- Accommodation
In remote areas, it’s better to check availability on Booking a few days in advance rather than showing up last minute with high hopes.
Booking and Airbnb only offer a small portion of what’s available.
Not necessarily guesthouses, but mostly accommodations aimed at locals (business or leisure travel).
These places are generally more comfortable. There’s even some upscale options.
So it’s necessary to scour Google Maps or Yandex Maps... These accommodations are usually found on Instagram, and WhatsApp is handy for booking!
Prices are a bit of a lottery. So is the comfort. From 20 to 80 € for a double, usually with a private bathroom. (Average around 40 €). These rates are for mid-range options.
Otherwise, this country is a paradise for wild camping. In a camper van, rooftop tent, or ground tent... There are beautiful spots everywhere!
- Climate
I thought it would be quite cool/cold at altitude.
I packed too many warm clothes...
If you’re not doing high-altitude treks or sleeping in a tent, there’s no need to overload yourself with winter gear.
A good fleece, a windproof rain jacket, and technical base layers will be enough.
It only got really cold in the evenings at Song Kul Lake and Tash Rabat, and the yurts are equipped with thick blankets and a stove.
Elsewhere, temperatures ranged from 15 to 30 °C.
In short, I used the AC more than the heater! (It’s hard to drive with the windows open unless you want to be covered in dust in no time...)
- Communication
I bought an eSIM before the trip with a data plan for Kyrgyzstan (Beeline network). Perfect for communicating via WhatsApp right after landing, but this network isn’t the best in Kyrgyzstan.
We then got a physical SIM card with an unlimited one-month plan (less than 4 € including the SIM) at a Mega store downtown. This network is much better, and you get coverage in all cities and most villages. Usually in the mountain passes too.
To make yourself understood, it’s essential to download Google Translate with French, Kyrgyz, Russian, and English options.
Very useful for translating menus, signs, and communicating with locals.
Hosts and other tourism professionals will even pull out their phones to communicate with non-Russian speakers.
The police too...
- Religion
There’s a noticeable difference between the north and the southwest of the country.
In the north, it’s a bit like Albania. People are Muslim by culture but not really by religion.
In the southwest, radical Islam is growing. Mosques are more numerous and imposing. Men are more bearded, women more veiled.
For travelers, religion isn’t an issue except for the near-total absence of pork.
There’s Russian sausage, but reading the ingredient list, it’s more like a one-way ticket to cancer than an Auvergne dry sausage...
You can find the detailed account of the trip here.
Since last year, the unification of the Russian visa with Belarus has been in effect.
For reference, EU citizens haven’t needed a visa for Belarus for two years. However, it wasn’t possible to travel to Russia. Only Belarusian and Russian citizens could move freely within the union.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
With the unified system, if you enter one of the two countries with a visa from either, you can now travel between them freely.
In the case of a Russian visa, it must be a paper visa glued into your passport—not an electronic visa.
This opens up the possibility of traveling to Russia from Lithuania via Minsk, for example, starting from Vilnius.
It also allows for travel circuits that would otherwise be difficult, despite the proximity of the cities.
So, I’m leaving on June 12th for Vilnius. A one-hour flight for around thirty euros with a carry-on bag, and from Vilnius Airport, there’s a bus to Minsk. My planned route for now is Vilnius-Minsk-Smolensk-Vitebsk-Polotsk-Pskov-Riga.
This crosses the Belarus-Russia border three times: from Minsk to Smolensk, then from Smolensk to Vitebsk, and finally from Polotsk to Pskov.
The region of this itinerary was, a thousand years ago, essentially that of the Krivichs, a local Slavic political entity. The term comes from "blood," *krew* in Polish, *krov* in Russian—basically "blood brothers." In Latvian, the word for Russians is *krievu*, by the way. Historically, the region corresponds to some of the old Russian principalities. Later, what marks Belarusian regions in general is, after the Great Schism of 1054, the division between Catholic and Orthodox zones, particularly as the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth expanded and contracted. In architecture, this corresponds to variations in Baroque styles, for example.
Vitebsk is known in France as the birthplace of Chagall. Born Russian, he first trained at the art school in Vitebsk, which was also attended by Malevich and Lissitzky, before completing his studies in Saint Petersburg, then moving to Berlin and later Paris. In Paris, Chagall met Cendrars, who had spent three years in Russia before and spoke enough Russian to help the newcomer get by a bit.
Back to the practical travel aspects: a local Pskov newspaper mentions that the Russian and Belarusian governments have a project for a Pskov-Polotsk train line. Previously, there were also plans for lines between Veliky Luki and Vitebsk, and Polotsk. A recently launched railway is Smolensk-Vitebsk, shown in white on the map, with projected lines in blue. https://pln-pskov.ru/society/583817.html https://pln-pskov.ru/society/578335.html
These will likely be "Hirondelle"—that is, *Lastochka*—the fast, spacious regional trains in Russia. Currently, all of this is done by bus, so the train is a very appealing and comfortable option. We’ll see how it goes.
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.
We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...
We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...
Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.
If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!
Philippe
We’re heading to Uzbekistan in three weeks for a month.
We still haven’t finalized our itinerary, and the extreme heat forecasted might really impact our plans. I’d love any advice on places where the heat might be a bit more bearable...
We’re arriving in Urgench and leaving from Tashkent. Generally, we only travel by bus, train, or group excursions—we don’t rent vehicles...
Originally, the plan was to visit Khiva, possibly head to Nukus for an excursion to the Aral Sea. I would’ve preferred a detour into Kazakhstan to Mangystau, but it seems either impossible or very complicated... Next, we’d head toward Tashkent, obviously stopping in Bukhara and Samarkand, with a possible stop in Nurata? Or maybe from Samarkand, a quick trip to Tajikistan in the mountains? From Tashkent, we could go to Chorvoq or the surrounding area, where it seems a little cooler, and do some hikes around Charvak Lake. I’m struggling to find solid info on Ugam-Chatkal National Park... What about the Ferghana Valley or Kokand, where the heat seems more intense? Then back to Tashkent.
If you’ve got any great tips, I’d really appreciate it!
Philippe
Hi everyone,
My partner and I are planning a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August and would love your input to refine our itinerary.
We’re thinking of spending the first part of the trip in the Almaty region, including the following spots:
Singing Barkhan (singing dune)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)
possibly Ile-Alatau National Park
After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:
Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?
I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.
Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?
More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?
Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.
Singing Barkhan (singing dune)
Altyn-Emel National Park
Charyn Canyon National Park
Ozora Ushchel'ya Reki Kensu (Kensu River Valley lakes)
possibly Ile-Alatau National Park
After that, we’d like to explore the Mangystau region around Aktau, with highlights like:
Airakty
Tuzbair Salt Lake
Kyzylkup ("Tiramisu")
Gora Bokty
Bozzhyra
Three Brothers Peaks
We’re planning to rent a 4x4 in each region and have a few questions:
Could you recommend any reliable 4x4 rental companies in both the Almaty and Aktau/Mangystau regions?
I’ve read that the Mangystau region can get extremely hot in August. Do you think it’s better to start with Almaty and finish with Aktau to hopefully have milder temperatures (less extreme😛)? For us, doing the reverse would be simpler in terms of international flights, the domestic flight, and it’d also be significantly cheaper.
Regarding the places listed above, do you think there are any must-see spots we should add, or conversely, any sites that aren’t worth the detour?
More generally, do you have any practical tips for a 3-week trip to Kazakhstan in August (road conditions, fuel availability, reservations, weather, safety, etc.)?
Thanks so much for your feedback and advice! P.S.: We’re used to traveling independently and driving 4x4s in sometimes challenging conditions (Namibia, Tanzania, Bolivia—South Lipez, Chile, etc.), and we’re also experienced hikers, used to self-sufficient treks (Patagonia, Huayhuash, Three Peaks in Nepal, among others). We’re just mentioning this to give you an idea of our level of self-sufficiency for this kind of trip.
Hi everyone!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
I wanted to share my experience from the trip I had this summer in Mongolia, in case it helps anyone get their bearings—I also relied a lot on forums myself.
We went as a couple with a French-speaking guide, Hacha, for a 17-day trek through the steppes and the Gobi Desert.
The experience was amazing—the landscapes are truly diverse and stunning. We started with a quick visit to Ulaanbaatar, then headed into the steppes for half the trip, including the Orkhon Valley, before moving on to the desert, which isn’t just sand but has incredibly varied scenery.
We traveled with Hacha, who has been a guide for 27 years and knows Mongolia inside out. She was accompanied by her daughter (with our consent). Hacha teaches French the rest of the year and speaks it perfectly. Her kindness and humor were much appreciated, and she’s become a friend. She prepared delicious homemade meals throughout the trip, adapted to European tastes since she’s used to it. We also had a driver who was really friendly and professional.
I injured myself on the way there with a sprained ankle, and Hacha immediately adjusted the pace and some activities to accommodate my injury, as well as booking more comfortable lodgings for the first few nights. She didn’t tell us it cost her extra, and we only found out later—we chose to pay a supplement, but she never asked for anything. Hacha was very fair with money, and her rates seem a bit lower than what we’d found elsewhere. She also tailors the program to the budget we gave her, and we had the option to adjust accommodations to fit our budget.
As for lodging, we stayed in tourist yurt camps (more comfortable with restaurants, showers, etc.), guest yurts, nights with nomadic families, and a few nights in tents. Our most memorable experience was two nights with nomads who welcomed us warmly, even though it was only the second time they’d hosted tourists. They shared their traditions with us, and the location was beautiful—right by a lake.
Hacha also adapted to our last-minute requests. For example, I mentioned wanting to see a shaman, which was tricky since it wasn’t planned in advance (my fault for not bringing it up earlier), but she used her contacts to see if there was a possibility. Unfortunately, no shamans were available, but we spontaneously stopped by the family of a young shaman during one of our trips. She wasn’t there, but we got to hear her parents’ stories and ask questions about the rituals to become a shaman and their experiences. It was a rare and unique moment I won’t forget!
We’ll definitely return to Mongolia as a family to explore less touristy regions (though we weren’t really bothered by tourism), as Hacha offers other off-the-beaten-path itineraries, including one that visits a turquoise lake surrounded by sand dunes—which sounds incredible, according to her.
I highly recommend Mongolia to anyone looking for an authentic trip that pushes you slightly out of your comfort zone while still feeling safe and enjoying breathtakingly diverse landscapes. And I 100% recommend Hacha—she created a personalized trip based on our requests and adapted to our needs and wishes on the spot!
Hi there,
After a long absence, I’m back on this forum where I used to post under the username NealMorse (mostly about off-the-beaten-path spots in the American West...).
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
I’m planning a trip to Uzbekistan—details still up in the air (8–10 days)—but I’d love to combine it with a stop in Kazakhstan at Mangystau (5–7 days).
One of my main reasons for traveling is to seek out and photograph deserts, especially dramatic landscapes. Mangystau fits the bill perfectly!
Has anyone here got any tips for this trip, especially how to connect the two countries? Thanks in advance
Hi there, 🙂
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
I’m thinking of taking a trip to these two countries in 2026 (late spring to early summer).
I’d arrive in Almaty and leave from Bishkek, and I’d be driving myself.
I plan to spend 1 week in Kazakhstan and 2 in Kyrgyzstan. The itinerary isn’t set yet.
My preliminary questions are about formalities, hassle levels, and the car.
From what I understand, no visa is needed, the passport must be valid for 6 months after entry, and there’s no longer a requirement to register with the authorities at each stop. In short, once you’re in, no administrative headaches.
Except for permits needed to drive in certain regions?
---/---
About crossing between the two countries:
- On foot - In a rental car
Quick? Easy?
---/---
Are both countries safe? (Meaning you don’t have to stay on guard all the time.) Are the cops corrupt? (A little, a lot, passionately, not at all?)
---/---
Is it better to rent a car for both countries or rent a vehicle in each country?
A 4x4 or something else?
Is accommodation plentiful enough that I can skip a rooftop tent, or is it better to rent a 4x4 with one?
I’ll definitely have more questions later...😉
Thanks for your answers !
Hi there,
I wanted to book a train between these two cities, but there’s no availability at the times I need.
Could you tell me if it’s possible to find a taxi to connect these two cities, or book a shared taxi for the four of us?
Thanks for your help
Estonians have become real pests at the Narva border control.
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
EER is the Estonian public radio and television service. They have a website, err.ee, with a section in Russian. The other day, on 26.06.2026, in Narva, a Swedish citizen was asked if she had any foreign currency. She mentioned $1,800 USD and 4,400 RUB. However, she was searched, and 21,000 SEK were found in her underwear (!) Here’s what the article says: "They eventually discovered 21,000 Swedish kronor" Maybe the stash seemed suspicious... She tried to backpedal, meaning to return to Estonia with the Swedish kronor, but was fined 280 €:
https://rus.err.ee/1610037940/tamozhenniki-v-narve-oshtrafovali-grazhdanku-shvecii-pytavshujusja-pronesti-v-nizhnem-bele-krony
Earlier this year, on 10.03.2026, a German citizen had 1,820 € found in the lining of her coat. She was denied entry and also fined 480 €.
https://rus.err.ee/1609962977/grazhdanka-germanii-pytalas-provezti-nalichnye-cherez-granicu-v-narve-no-byla-oshtrafovana
Bottom line: if you need to carry cash to exchange, only take USD—and make sure it’s brand new...
Hello,
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Summer 2026 hasn’t even arrived yet, and I’m already thinking about summer 2027! We’re a family with two kids, who will be 9.5 and 4.5 years old next summer (turning 5 at the end of October 2027, actually). We’d love to spend 19 nights in Uzbekistan and Kyrgyzstan—a part of the world that’s completely new to us. We enjoy traveling, do it often, and the kids are used to it (though we still need a bit of organization and comfort!). Here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 1 - Arrival in Tashkent (ideally in the late afternoon). Head to the train station (by taxi?) to take the overnight sleeper train to Urgench (1 night). Day 2 - Khiva (2 nights): Taxi transfer from the station to the city. Visit Itchan Kala, the walls, and sunset. Day 4 - Head to Bukhara (3 nights) by train (about 6 hours). Visit the historic center, domes, and workshops. Day 7 - On to Samarkand (2 nights), but this time with a private driver. Visit Registan, the necropolis, and local crafts. Day 9 - Head to Osh (1 night) in Kyrgyzstan with the private driver, who’ll drop us at the border. Long transition day (including border crossing). If it’s not too late, visit Osh’s market (otherwise, the next morning). Day 10 - Pick up our rental car (4x4 without a driver this time) and drive to Toktogul (2 nights) and the Suusamyr Valley. Day 12 - Head to the Kochkor region (350 km - 4 nights): Tash Rabat, Song-Kul Lake (yurt stay), and Aigliers. Day 16 - Depart for Karakol/Issyk-Kul (250 km - 4 nights): Jeti-Oguz, Altyn Arashan, beaches, and hot springs. Day 20: Fly home. TOTAL = 19 nights What do you think? Budget-wise:
Flight tickets: 3000 € Uzbekistan logistics (accommodation ideally with a pool for the kids and vehicle): 1600 € Kyrgyzstan logistics (accommodation and 4x4 vehicle like a Pajero/Land Cruiser): 1600 € Living & food: 800 € TOTAL: 7000 €
Does this seem reasonable? Not overestimated or underestimated? Thanks for any feedback or tips from your own experiences.
Hi there,
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
I’ve never bought a SIM card abroad or even used prepaid cards in France...
So I’m wondering how it all works?
You buy a SIM card and pop it into your phone. Okay, so far so good... 😏
But after that?
I can’t find the price of prepaid cards or how they work with MegaCom.
If someone could give me a step-by-step guide... 😊
Thanks! 🙂
Hi there! 🙂
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I’m not planning to bring all my meals for the 3 weeks of travel, but I’d like to spice up my picnic lunches and a few dinners in this country that’s not exactly known for its cuisine...
I’ve seen that fruits and vegetables are easy to find. Bread is also no problem.
I’m a bit unsure about the local cheese, but I’ll manage.
Actually, it’s what I’d put in my sandwiches that I’d like to pack: cured sausage, pâtés.
Are these foods allowed through customs?
Also, I’m thinking that bringing 3-4 freeze-dried meals could be a good option. I’ve never bought any before. Which brands are the most flavorful?
I’ve also noticed that real coffee is rare. (Meaning Kyrgyz people drink Nescafé. Sacrilege!) Can I easily find coffee there to make my own?
Finally, which supermarket chain is the best? (Meaning the one with the most variety and, above all, quality!)
Last question: where can I buy a gas stove in Bishkek? (I’ve heard that local gas canisters aren’t compatible with the stove I already own)
Thanks!
I was lucky enough to spend two stays in Tajikistan between October and November 2025. I met Fayziddin, who’s a French-speaking guide and very knowledgeable—he really knows how to share his love for his country and his valley. He’ll welcome you to his village and, in the future, to a hostel that’s currently under construction. I can’t recommend him enough!
Hi there,
We’re planning to explore Uzbekistan this summer (with the weather constraints that come with it). Our itinerary includes the three classic cities plus a few side trips here and there. We still have one week left that we’d like to dedicate to hiking. We were thinking of heading to Kyrgyzstan, but I’m open to other suggestions if we stay in Uzbekistan. Thanks!
Hi there,
After making good use of the tips on this site, I’m now adding my own contribution.
We’ve just returned from 25 days exploring Mongolia.
A trip that took us from the capital to the Gobi Desert, from the ancient capital Karakhorum to the Orkhon Valley, and also off the beaten path to places close to nature and nomadic life, all thanks to our guide Hacha.
I’m used to traveling as a couple or solo, in "backpacker" mode, and I rarely—or only occasionally—hire a guide. But this time, I have to admit that choosing a guide-interpreter and a driver was an excellent idea.
We set off as a group of four to share the costs. I’d spoken with Hacha, a Mongolian who used to work at the French Alliance, speaks perfect French, and has been organizing trips for over 25 years.
Needless to say, she knows her job inside out and has built strong relationships with nomadic families over the years. Since she only works with small groups, she can steer clear of the main tourist spots. With her help, we were able to personalize our itinerary—and even adjust it as we went along. For example, we’d planned to attend the Naadam festival in a small town, but we found out there was another festival two days later that wasn’t on the schedule. So we tweaked our route to catch both, and we didn’t regret it.
Anyway, if you’d like more details or Hacha’s contact info, feel free to reach out.
I took a few days to get some fresh air outside the Schengen-NATO prison. Between March 18, 2026, and March 25, 2026, as shown by the passport stamps:
Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.
Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.
This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.
A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.
Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/
The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.
=========================
On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.
Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.
The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.
=============
The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.
Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.
Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.
==============
About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.
It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.
By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:
Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:
============================
But let’s talk practical stuff. --
My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.
My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.
Internet --
Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.
For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.
Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.
Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.
Borisoglebsk is the Russian border checkpoint after Kirkenes, on the road to Murmansk.
Kirkenes is a tiny town with a correspondingly small airport. Nothing has changed there: the minibuses to Murmansk wait on the right as you exit the airport. They’re synchronized with the two daily flights from Oslo—the SAS around 11:00 AM and Norwegian around 11:30 AM. They stop in Kirkenes at the corner of the Scandic for an hour, where other passengers can board, then head straight to the nearby border.
This is the least hassle Frontex/Schengen border. The Norwegian agent quickly scans your passport, and that’s it. No customs, since Norway is Schengen but not in the EU. On the Russian side, there’s a passport check and a quick customs inspection. All in all, crossing both the Norwegian and Russian checkpoints takes about 15 minutes.
A paper visa is required; e-visas aren’t accepted.
Two companies run the route: Avto Ekspress and Borodin: https://ae51.ru/routes/kirkenes-murmansk/ https://borodinbus.com/
The one-way fare is 5,500 ₽. You can either buy it online in rubles with a MIR card or make a formal reservation and pay in NOK cash to the driver. I took Borodin, and the price in NOK was much more expensive than in ₽.
=========================
On March 25, I left from Pskov via the Estonian border post at Luhaama. I spent three days in Murmansk, flew to St. Petersburg (SPB), stayed there for two days, then took an evening train to Pskov.
Since the end of February—and reportedly until the end of May—the Estonians have restricted the opening hours of the two border crossings near Pskov: Koidula (Pechory on the Russian side) and Luhaama (Izborsk on the Russian side). They’re closed at night between 7:00 PM and 7:00 AM. Right now, there’s a bus from Pskov at 7:00 AM to the border. It drops you off at the end of the road where truckers—many Kazakh and Serbian—are parked on the side. You finish the rest on foot to the barrier, where there’s a quick initial check for Ukrainian stamps in passports. Then you walk to the customs building, followed by passport control at the kiosk for motorists. After that, it’s a 500-meter walk to the Estonian checkpoint. At the moment, things seem calmer. Passport control is quick. The usual silly questions in English: "Where were you? Where are you going?" I just gave my most clueless smile: "Sorry, I don’t understand." Yeah, right—I don’t speak English, especially not at an Estonian border with a French passport. If they’re in a mood, though... A very quick bag inspection. Once you exit the Estonian post, walk to the bus stop sign by the road where another coach takes you to Riga.
The catch: in my case, last Wednesday, there were two passengers (Russians) with old Ukrainian stamps in their passports. The bus from the Estonian post to Riga was supposed to leave around 9:30 AM. We ended up leaving around noon after the two were grilled by the FSB. Since it was a weekday outside of holidays, the bus was half-empty. The fuller the bus and the more people with Ukrainian stamps, the worse the nightmare. Don’t book a same-day flight from Riga. I had a flight at 6:00 PM, so it worked out.
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The Kirkenes-Murmansk route is still clearly the easiest and fastest. But it’s not the most convenient since it’s way up north.
Next, I’d say the Gdansk-Kaliningrad route in the middle of the week. Avoid weekends and holiday departures/returns.
Avoid the Narva-Ivangorod route during Christmas, Easter, May 9, and *all* summer.
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About flights from Murmansk to St. Petersburg: prices are good. I bought my ticket the day before departure on Rossiya for 7,500 ₽, including 10 kg of luggage + a handbag.
It’s the tail end of the northern lights season, and there were still crowds of Chinese tourists.
By the way, Murmansk is twinned with Harbin:
Chinese tourists are the largest foreign group, followed by Indians, then a mix of others from the Far East, Turks, Arabs, etc. Brochures are bilingual—Russian and Chinese:
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But let’s talk practical stuff. --
My domestic SIM card was restricted for SMS and internet for 24 hours. After that, if you want to keep using SMS, don’t turn off your phone—restarting triggers another 24-hour purgatory.
My Russian SIM cards (Megafon, MTS, Beeline) were activated as soon as I logged into their respective apps with my credentials.
Internet --
Telegram is heavily slowed down by authorities. To use it, you need to connect through proxy servers, which you load into the latest version of the app. Traffic is then rerouted internally within Telegram to servers outside Russia (Germany, Poland, Sweden, etc.). You can find these proxies on various channels. One is ChatVPN—check their website too.
For general internet use, like browsing the web, VPNs that work right now use the VLESS protocol. You can find several on Telegram by searching "VPN." A few free days, then payment in rubles or crypto.
Rozkomnadzor’s team are experts at this, so things can change. It’s a constant cat-and-mouse game.
Pskov is a special case. The city is near Estonia and has a large military base. Depending on NATO drone swarms launched from the Baltics, Wi-Fi can be completely suspended except for the most essential mobile apps. The drone swarms use the 4G network, and the powerful electronic jamming and drone suppression systems cause periods without Wi-Fi—including in hotels. Wired connections aren’t affected.
Hi there,
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
I’m planning to visit Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan in early June, assuming the war doesn’t spread ??? Could anyone give me some info about the eastern border after visiting Charyn Canyon? First, is it possible to head east using public transport, or should I book a tour from Almaty and stay in the east to continue on to Kyrgyzstan toward Karakol? (I mean, not return to Almaty with the tour.) It’s a bit of a vague question, but those who’ve been there will know what I’m talking about;
Thanks!
Patrice
Hello,
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
New year, new questions...😛
Since the Chinese highway isn’t finished yet (opening postponed year after year), I’m wondering what condition this track is in come June?
I’m a bit worried that the snowmelt might completely soak the track—or even that the snow might still be clinging to the mountainside near the pass...
Thanks 🙂
Hi,
Does anyone know if the travel agency "NOUVINI" in Tashkent still exists???
Or do you have another agency to recommend???
Thanks in advance!
Best regards,
Jean Pierre
Hi there,
We’re a group of 4 people who prefer to travel independently but also want to use local guides at different stages of our trip.
My question is: should we plan to hire a different guide for each stage, or just one guide for all the different legs? We’re planning to travel between stages either by taxi or public transport (train, plane…).
Our itinerary is pretty classic (3 weeks):
Visit Tashkent
Tashkent – Ferghana Valley (by train)
Explore the valley and return to Tashkent with a guide and taxi
Tashkent – Nukus (flight)
Nukus – Khiva by taxi + guide for Khiva visit
Khiva – Bukhara by taxi + guide for Bukhara visit
Bukhara – Lake Aydar Kul – Samarkand by taxi + guide for Samarkand
Samarkand – Tashkent (by train).
Is the cost reasonable for the transfers between stages? Also, I’m open to any suggestions or tips (recommended guides, etc.).
Thanks!
Bernard
Hi there,
I’d like to spend 2–3 days in the Korgaljyn area in May to photograph flamingos and other birds.
I’ll be in Astana and I’m looking for a tour that includes accommodation so I can stay for 2 days.
I’ve found the buses from Astana and info about the park’s facilities, but no accommodation or guided outings.
Has anyone done this?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Did you attend the show at the Nadir Divan Begi Madrasa in Bukhara? What are the details for booking? Thanks in advance.
Have a great day and happy travels!
Danielle
Hi,
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Planning a solo trip to Kyrgyzstan in May. Any tips or info?
Thanks
Hi everyone, happy to be back on VF!
I’ll be in Uzbekistan this coming April and will of course visit the three classics—Samarkand, Bukhara, and Khiva. However, I’d also love to get out of these cities to explore the Uzbek countryside and experience its nature. Mountains, steppes, etc. Ideally, with some great hikes passing through villages. Any spots you’d recommend? Thanks in advance
Hi,
We were wondering if anyone has recently experienced the Tashkent / Fergana Valley route by bus or taxi?
We’re landing in Tashkent at 10:30 PM with our international flight. To head to Fergana the next day, the only trains available are very early in the morning or very late in the evening (arriving at 11:30 PM in Fergana). So, we’d like to avoid that mode of transport if possible to spend half a day in Tashkent and relax a bit.
Thanks
Hi there,
We’re heading to Saint Petersburg from June 30 to July 7, 2026, and we’ll be arriving late (9 PM) at our hotel on June 30. Unfortunately, the hotel can’t pick us up from the train station. Is it easy to get a taxi at Saint Petersburg coach station?
Thanks for your help!
Hi,
We’d like to know if it’s easy to visit the Sarmych-Sai gorges from Bukhara as a day trip. Do homestays and hotels offer this?
Thanks
Hello,
We’re a senior couple planning to spend around 3 weeks in Uzbekistan, either starting at the end of March or mid-April. We’ll begin in Khiva (Urgench) and finish in Tashkent (via Termez). We prefer traveling independently as much as possible, at our own pace, and are considering hiring drivers for specific legs of our journey.
Here’s our rough itinerary:
4 nights in Khiva
4 in Bukhara
5 or 6 in Samarkand (we’d like to do a day trip to the Seven Lakes in Tajikistan)
2 in Termez
Then Tashkent and the Fergana Valley
2 in Tashkent
Does this seem balanced? Any suggestions? We’re not planning to go as far as the Aral Sea or stay in a yurt camp.
Is the weather favorable at the end of March (risk of rain)? Or would mid-April be better?
What’s the typical cost for a driver’s services?
Thank you in advance for any tips that could help us with our plans.
Andrea