Sécurité ou pas au Sri Lanka?
by Deffunk
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Je compte aller au sri lanka probablement en janvier ou février, je vois qu'il y a des conflits, y-a t'il une partie du SL à éviter où pas raison de sécurité ?
Et quel est la météo dès lors ?
Comme il a été plusieurs fois répondu à cette question sur le forum, il faut principalement éviter la région nord (péninsule de Jaffna et alentours), et quelques endroits de l'est (alentours de Trincomalee et Batticaloa), c'est-à dire les coins où les tamouls sont majoritaires.
Il est également conseillé de ne pas trop traîner à Colombo car c'est dans la capitale qu'il y a le plus de risque d'attentat.
On conseille aussi d'éviter les transports en commun mais il ne faut pas être parano.
Partout ailleurs, l'ambiance est paisible. Nous y étions en mai dernier et nous y retournerons dès que possible.
Pour la météo, janvier et février sont une période idéale pour le sud et l'ouest du pays.
Partout ailleurs, l'ambiance est paisible. Nous y étions en mai dernier et nous y retournerons dès que possible.
Pour la météo, janvier et février sont une période idéale pour le sud et l'ouest du pays.
Merci ça me rassure. Etant donné que je dois voyager en Inde et me rendre dans le sud pour rejoindre le SL, par où me conseillez-vous donc de passer.
Je vois sur la carte que Rameswaram est tout proche de Mannar, est-ce par là le moyen le plus facile de rejoindre le SL ? Par bateau ?
Sinon est-ce que negombo est une bon endroit pour visiter et aussi pour plonger ?
Pour le passage de l'Inde au Sri Lanka en bateau, je ne sais pas.
Negombo est un endroit pratique pour se reposer après une arrivée par avion car c'est une station balnéaire proche de l'aéroport mais ce n'est pas l'endroit idéal pour visiter et plonger.
Pour la plongée, il vaut mieux aller dans le sud, utilise la fonction de recherche dans le forum Activités aquatiques en voyage
Idem pour les visites, il y a de quoi lire sur ce forum.
Par bateau ?
Pas de liaison maritime entre l'Inde et le Sri Lanka ...
Pas de liaison maritime entre l'Inde et le Sri Lanka ...
Ah pourquoi ?? C'est pourtant si proche.
Il y a au Sri Lanka des Cinghalais et des Tamouls; ces derniers veulent l'indépendance d'une partie de l'ile, l'état cinghalais ne voulant pas en entendre parler, une rebellion ( tigres tamouls ) s'est crée et mène une guerre contre l'état depuis belle lurette maintenant.
L'état Sri Lankais soupçonnant les tamouls d'inde de ravitailler en armes les rebelles tamouls Sri Lankais par voie maritime, il a supprimé toute circulation maritime entre les deux pays, pour mieux contrôler les cotes ...
Voilà .
Ah, donc il ne reste plus que l'avion ou à la nage si j'ai bien compris.
Les tamils indiens estiment que les tamils sri lankais subissent un véritable génocide.
En octobre, les directeurs de production cinématographique et les acteurs tamils ont tenu un grand rassemblement à RAMESWARAM (point de l'INDE le plus proche du SRI LANKA).
Le 24 octobre, dans toutes les rues des villes du TAMIL NADU, une grande partie de la population s'est également rassemblée pour faire des chaînes humaines. Je leur ai promis d'en parler, voilà c'est fait. En plus vous pouvez voir quelques photos sur le blog que j'ai fait lors de mon dernier séjour en INDE : http://india2008.canalblog.com/
Je vois le monde un peu comme on voit l'incroyable, L'incroyable c'est ça c'est ce qu'on ne voit pas (Léo Ferré)
http://2010inde.canalblog.com/ et http://2011inde.canalblog.com/ et
http://2012inde.canalblog.com/
Ou le saut en longueur !
Les tamils indiens estiment que les tamils sri lankais subissent un véritable génocide.
C'est évidemment faux... Mais il est vrai que c'est la discrimination de l'administration Sri Lankaise envers les Tamouls ( postes dans l'administration et emplois "porteurs" réservés aux Cinghalais ) qui a fait germé l'idée d'un état indépendant Tamoul, on connait la suite ... Maintenant, les poseurs de bombes ne sont pas les Cinghalais, terroristes ou résistants ? Tout dépent de quel coté on se place, comme toujours ... N'empeche que c'est un immense gachis, La connerie humaine ...
C'est évidemment faux... Mais il est vrai que c'est la discrimination de l'administration Sri Lankaise envers les Tamouls ( postes dans l'administration et emplois "porteurs" réservés aux Cinghalais ) qui a fait germé l'idée d'un état indépendant Tamoul, on connait la suite ... Maintenant, les poseurs de bombes ne sont pas les Cinghalais, terroristes ou résistants ? Tout dépent de quel coté on se place, comme toujours ... N'empeche que c'est un immense gachis, La connerie humaine ...
N'empeche que c'est un immense gachis, La connerie humaine ...
Tu as mille fois raison.
Tu as mille fois raison.
Je vois le monde un peu comme on voit l'incroyable, L'incroyable c'est ça c'est ce qu'on ne voit pas (Léo Ferré)
http://2010inde.canalblog.com/ et http://2011inde.canalblog.com/ et
http://2012inde.canalblog.com/
Bonjour,
je suis actuellement en inde et doit me rendre au sri lanka dans 15 jours. Depuis quelques temps les journaux indiens relatent de plus en plus d'evenements (bombes, arrestations...) au sri lanka. Le gouvernement voudrait en finir avec cette guerre avant la fin de l'annee!!!...bref, je me demande si la situation sur place est de plus en plus dangereuse ou si les journaux dramatisent l'evenement. Est ce que quelqu'un qui se trouve la bas ou qui en revient peut me renseigner sur la situation sur place? D'avance merci
je suis actuellement en inde et doit me rendre au sri lanka dans 15 jours. Depuis quelques temps les journaux indiens relatent de plus en plus d'evenements (bombes, arrestations...) au sri lanka. Le gouvernement voudrait en finir avec cette guerre avant la fin de l'annee!!!...bref, je me demande si la situation sur place est de plus en plus dangereuse ou si les journaux dramatisent l'evenement. Est ce que quelqu'un qui se trouve la bas ou qui en revient peut me renseigner sur la situation sur place? D'avance merci
Hélène
Sudi vit au Sri Lanka, elle a posté plusieurs messages récemment, pose-lui donc la question.
Oui le gouvernement veut en finir. les tigres tamouls n'ont cessé de rompre les accords signés, toute solution de paix a echoué. Cette guerre ne peut plus durer pour l'ensemble des Srilankais Cinghalais et Tamouls modérés. Le LTTE est en train de perdre ce qu'on craint du coup c'est que n'ayant plus rien à perdre il élargit ses attentats au dela de Colombo pour destabiliser politiquement les autorités au pouvoir. Un millier de tigres tamouls brainwashed seraient en mesure de se disperser pour commettre des attentas suicides. Ces derniers temps des lieux jusque là épargné ont été touchés.
Si je devais aller au Srilanka:Une fois arrivé à Colombo direct le cap au sud mirissa, Unawatuna. De là je pars en excursion avec voiture plus chauffeur, pas de transport en commun surtout pas en ce moment. C'est mon avis personel.
Si je devais aller au Srilanka:Une fois arrivé à Colombo direct le cap au sud mirissa, Unawatuna. De là je pars en excursion avec voiture plus chauffeur, pas de transport en commun surtout pas en ce moment. C'est mon avis personel.
Elle écrase le piment noir, ses cheveux longs balaient le sol.
Bien de savoir :
L'organisation des TigresTamouls est inscrite depuis le 29 mai 2006 sur la liste des organisations terroristes par l'Union Européenne (sur la demande de l'equipe neocons usa) ... pour ceux qui en veulent savoir plus :
1 site 2 site 3 site
PS. Tiens, il me semble qu'il n y a plus personne pour crier "Tibet libre !" ....C'est devenu deja demodé ...?
L'organisation des TigresTamouls est inscrite depuis le 29 mai 2006 sur la liste des organisations terroristes par l'Union Européenne (sur la demande de l'equipe neocons usa) ... pour ceux qui en veulent savoir plus :
1 site 2 site 3 site
PS. Tiens, il me semble qu'il n y a plus personne pour crier "Tibet libre !" ....C'est devenu deja demodé ...?
PS. Tiens, il me semble qu'il n y a plus personne pour crier "Tibet libre !" ....C'est devenu deja demodé ...?
non, non, je n'ai pas changé mon avatar à la fin des JO de Pékin... mais c'est vrai que l'on n'en entend plus beaucoup parler... la chape de plomb est retombée, comme si rien ne s'était passé... le gouvernement chinois en a mis plein la vue à un monde pourtant bien aveugle, de jolis feux d'artifices et les espoirs de faire bouger les choses à l'occasion de ces JO qui partent en fumée...
non, non, je n'ai pas changé mon avatar à la fin des JO de Pékin... mais c'est vrai que l'on n'en entend plus beaucoup parler... la chape de plomb est retombée, comme si rien ne s'était passé... le gouvernement chinois en a mis plein la vue à un monde pourtant bien aveugle, de jolis feux d'artifices et les espoirs de faire bouger les choses à l'occasion de ces JO qui partent en fumée...
Ouh là, j'espère que les terroristes ne s'en prennent pas aux touristes, genre enlévement...... Je me demande si ca vaut encore le coup d'y aller au SL.
l'enlèvement n'est pas une méthode utilisé par le LTTE. Les touristes n'ont jamais été la cible des attentats, l'organisation des tigres prend soin de ne pas se mettre encore plus à dos la communauté internationale. Au début du conflit il y a environ vingt ans le ltte bénéficiait même d'un capital de sympathie de la part de l'occident. En dépit du dialogue offert par les gouvernements moderés depuis 2002 et les négociations ayant abouti a des cessez le feu sous l'égide de diplomates norvégiens le ltte n'a eu de cesse de faire marche arrière. Un consensus politique national à donné le feu vert aux autorités sri lankaises pour défaire le ltte en conquérant ses bastions au nord est.
Oui cela vaut le coup d'aller au Sri Lanka, ne pas trainer à Negombo, Colombo et utiliser un taxi personel pour les plus ou moins longues distances.
Oui cela vaut le coup d'aller au Sri Lanka, ne pas trainer à Negombo, Colombo et utiliser un taxi personel pour les plus ou moins longues distances.
Elle écrase le piment noir, ses cheveux longs balaient le sol.
Bonjour,
je suis rentrée du SL le 25 octobre. Pas de problème de sécurité, il faut biensur être prudent (pas de transport en commun, bannir les zones du nord) Je suis restée une semaine chez des amis à Colombo : pas de souci La semaine suivante, j'étais à Bentota et ses environs, pas de souci non plus
Les sri lankais ont grand besoin des touristes et puis c'est un pays magnifique, avec des gens souriants, accueillants et tellement gentils.
Bon voyage (je repartirai bien avec vous!!!!!)
je suis rentrée du SL le 25 octobre. Pas de problème de sécurité, il faut biensur être prudent (pas de transport en commun, bannir les zones du nord) Je suis restée une semaine chez des amis à Colombo : pas de souci La semaine suivante, j'étais à Bentota et ses environs, pas de souci non plus
Les sri lankais ont grand besoin des touristes et puis c'est un pays magnifique, avec des gens souriants, accueillants et tellement gentils.
Bon voyage (je repartirai bien avec vous!!!!!)
Pas de problème de sécurité, il faut biensur être prudent (pas de transport en commun, bannir les zones du nord)
en deux semaines au sri lanka (côte sud et centre), je me suis principalement déplacé en bus et train. ça reste le moyen le moins cher (et à mon sens le plus agréable, je ne pourrais pas, pour ma part, ne me déplacer qu'en taxi, mais c'est un avis personnel, et pas uniquement d'un point de vue financier...).
dans le sud, c'était un moyen extrêmement simple de se déplacer d'une ville à une autre, d'une plage à une autre, pour quelques roupies à chaque fois. on trouve des arrêts de bus très régulièrement le long des routes. il suffit de lever le bras pour que le bus s'arrête (enfin, parfois, il faut se faire remarquer pour le conducteur fasse attention à toi...). j'ai un peu retrouvé la même chose à goa, même simplicité.
et ce voyage en train, depuis kandy jusqu'à haputale... magnifique, merveilleux, inoubliable ! ça n'aurait pas pu être si magique en voiture...
bon, maintenant, on ne peut oublier le fait que les attentats visent régulièrement les transports en commun. mais le sud est une région calme, épargnée par cette guerre sur laquelle le reste du monde ferme les yeux. mais ça ne m'a pas découragé.
ce qui aurait pu me décourager, par contre (et ça d'ailleurs été le cas en inde, je préférais nettement prendre le train plutôt que le bus...), c'est la conception toute particulière qu'ont les chauffeurs sri lankais du code de la route. c'est vrai que, lorsque l'on est en voiture, on peut demander à son chauffeur de se montrer prudent, de ne pas dépasser n'importe comment. il pourra s'adapter. essayer de faire entendre son point de vue à un chauffeur de bus, j'ai essayé... au mieux, de l'incompréhension. au pire, du foutage de gueule plus ou moins ostensible. et le reste du bus qui ne réagit pas mieux, même après le 124ème coup de frein en catastrophe au cul d'un camion sur une route de montagne, et le 65ème dépassement hasardeux en plein virage...
mais malgré tout ça, je le répète (et je répète également que ce n'est qu'un avis tout à fait personnel... mais que je partage !😛), je ne conçois pas de faire un voyage "tout en tacot"... et je ne pense pas être un aventurier, totalement inconscient...
en deux semaines au sri lanka (côte sud et centre), je me suis principalement déplacé en bus et train. ça reste le moyen le moins cher (et à mon sens le plus agréable, je ne pourrais pas, pour ma part, ne me déplacer qu'en taxi, mais c'est un avis personnel, et pas uniquement d'un point de vue financier...).
dans le sud, c'était un moyen extrêmement simple de se déplacer d'une ville à une autre, d'une plage à une autre, pour quelques roupies à chaque fois. on trouve des arrêts de bus très régulièrement le long des routes. il suffit de lever le bras pour que le bus s'arrête (enfin, parfois, il faut se faire remarquer pour le conducteur fasse attention à toi...). j'ai un peu retrouvé la même chose à goa, même simplicité.
et ce voyage en train, depuis kandy jusqu'à haputale... magnifique, merveilleux, inoubliable ! ça n'aurait pas pu être si magique en voiture...
bon, maintenant, on ne peut oublier le fait que les attentats visent régulièrement les transports en commun. mais le sud est une région calme, épargnée par cette guerre sur laquelle le reste du monde ferme les yeux. mais ça ne m'a pas découragé.
ce qui aurait pu me décourager, par contre (et ça d'ailleurs été le cas en inde, je préférais nettement prendre le train plutôt que le bus...), c'est la conception toute particulière qu'ont les chauffeurs sri lankais du code de la route. c'est vrai que, lorsque l'on est en voiture, on peut demander à son chauffeur de se montrer prudent, de ne pas dépasser n'importe comment. il pourra s'adapter. essayer de faire entendre son point de vue à un chauffeur de bus, j'ai essayé... au mieux, de l'incompréhension. au pire, du foutage de gueule plus ou moins ostensible. et le reste du bus qui ne réagit pas mieux, même après le 124ème coup de frein en catastrophe au cul d'un camion sur une route de montagne, et le 65ème dépassement hasardeux en plein virage...
mais malgré tout ça, je le répète (et je répète également que ce n'est qu'un avis tout à fait personnel... mais que je partage !😛), je ne conçois pas de faire un voyage "tout en tacot"... et je ne pense pas être un aventurier, totalement inconscient...
Mes interventions sur la question de sécurité mises à part, je confirme comme tous ceux qui connaissent le Sri Lanka. C'est une ile merveilleuse, discrète, belle, les habitants souriants gentils.
Elle écrase le piment noir, ses cheveux longs balaient le sol.
Bonjour!
Je vois que la question a déjà bien été répondue... Je me permets quand même de répondre vu que ma participation a été sollicitée ;) Désolée de le faire si tard, je ne me connecte que le dimanche...
Je vis dans le sud à Tangalla. La situation n'a pas changée depuis 3 ans. Les zones touristiques restent sûr. Comme il l'a déjà été dit, les LTTE ont besoin du soutien financier des expatriés tamouls et ils ne veulent pas se mettre à dos les "blancs"... Donc aucun souci pour tous les sites touristiques, plages, triangle culturel, montagnes... Comme il est écrit partout, évitez le nord, bien après Anuradhapura donc cette ville est visitable. Trinco et Batticaloa sont ouvertes, mais nombreux check point et encore quelques risques. mais je connais mal cette zone. Arumga Bay est aussi ouverte mais il faut vous y rendre de jour et laisser le temps à votre chauffeur de rentrer de jour...
pour les transports en commun, pour moi, c'est une question de malchance, d'être au mauvais endroit au mauvais moment. il y a tellement de bus qui circulent à chaque minute dans tout le sri lanka... Je pense que vous avez plus de "malchance" de vous faire renverser par une voiture en bas de chez vous ou d'avoir un accident mortel au volant de votre voiture. Nous continuons à nous rendre à colombo en bus. Il m'arrive de penser que je suis une sécurité pour mon mari et les autres utilisateurs du bus... Il est vrai que si vous voulez 0 risque, c'est mieux le taxi.
Pour la conduite dangereuse des bus, c'est un peu pareil, il y a peu d'accidents. les bus ont la haute priorité car c'est les plus gros, tout le monde s'enlève de la route quand il voit un bus... mais c'est vrai que c'est impressionnant... les gens sont pressés d'arriver, donc ils préfèrent que le bus aille le plus vite possible, c'est pour ça qu'ils rient quand vous demandez au chauffeur de faire attention... Je peux vous dire que quand on doit faire 6h de bus, on est content que le bus aille vite et on râle quand il va trop lentement... on s'y habitue...
Les attentats dans les trains n'ont eu lieu que dans la banlieue de colombo, mais c'est pareil que pour les bus, attentats assez rares. donc profitez du train de montagne, moment inoubliable, ... même si vous faites le tour avec un taxi, il peut vous déposer à la gare et vous reprendre à votre sortie du train. le tout petit prix du train est dérisoire. le train est le meilleur moyen de profiter du paysage, il va tellement lentement et on n'est pas gêné par le trafic...
Je crois que je vous ai tout dit, mon message est déjà assez long...
Bon voyage, Séverine
Je vois que la question a déjà bien été répondue... Je me permets quand même de répondre vu que ma participation a été sollicitée ;) Désolée de le faire si tard, je ne me connecte que le dimanche...
Je vis dans le sud à Tangalla. La situation n'a pas changée depuis 3 ans. Les zones touristiques restent sûr. Comme il l'a déjà été dit, les LTTE ont besoin du soutien financier des expatriés tamouls et ils ne veulent pas se mettre à dos les "blancs"... Donc aucun souci pour tous les sites touristiques, plages, triangle culturel, montagnes... Comme il est écrit partout, évitez le nord, bien après Anuradhapura donc cette ville est visitable. Trinco et Batticaloa sont ouvertes, mais nombreux check point et encore quelques risques. mais je connais mal cette zone. Arumga Bay est aussi ouverte mais il faut vous y rendre de jour et laisser le temps à votre chauffeur de rentrer de jour...
pour les transports en commun, pour moi, c'est une question de malchance, d'être au mauvais endroit au mauvais moment. il y a tellement de bus qui circulent à chaque minute dans tout le sri lanka... Je pense que vous avez plus de "malchance" de vous faire renverser par une voiture en bas de chez vous ou d'avoir un accident mortel au volant de votre voiture. Nous continuons à nous rendre à colombo en bus. Il m'arrive de penser que je suis une sécurité pour mon mari et les autres utilisateurs du bus... Il est vrai que si vous voulez 0 risque, c'est mieux le taxi.
Pour la conduite dangereuse des bus, c'est un peu pareil, il y a peu d'accidents. les bus ont la haute priorité car c'est les plus gros, tout le monde s'enlève de la route quand il voit un bus... mais c'est vrai que c'est impressionnant... les gens sont pressés d'arriver, donc ils préfèrent que le bus aille le plus vite possible, c'est pour ça qu'ils rient quand vous demandez au chauffeur de faire attention... Je peux vous dire que quand on doit faire 6h de bus, on est content que le bus aille vite et on râle quand il va trop lentement... on s'y habitue...
Les attentats dans les trains n'ont eu lieu que dans la banlieue de colombo, mais c'est pareil que pour les bus, attentats assez rares. donc profitez du train de montagne, moment inoubliable, ... même si vous faites le tour avec un taxi, il peut vous déposer à la gare et vous reprendre à votre sortie du train. le tout petit prix du train est dérisoire. le train est le meilleur moyen de profiter du paysage, il va tellement lentement et on n'est pas gêné par le trafic...
Je crois que je vous ai tout dit, mon message est déjà assez long...
Bon voyage, Séverine
Bonjour Séverine,
Merci pour tes informations. Elles nous permettent de nous organiser car nous partons pour BERUWALA en janvier prochain.
Bien cordialement.
Merci pour tes informations. Elles nous permettent de nous organiser car nous partons pour BERUWALA en janvier prochain.
Bien cordialement.
Voyager pour combattre la maladie de tous les siècles: L'IGNORANCE !
www.bena.over-blog.fr
Bonjour!
De rien! Avec plaisir!
Toujours à disposition le dimanche...
Bon séjour! Séverine
De rien! Avec plaisir!
Toujours à disposition le dimanche...
Bon séjour! Séverine
salut severine,
je serai au sri lanka dans quelques jours et au vu de l'actualite quelque peu chargee des derniers jours pourrais tu me dire qu'elle est la situation sur place? est il possible de monter jusqu'a anuradhapura?
je serai au sri lanka dans quelques jours et au vu de l'actualite quelque peu chargee des derniers jours pourrais tu me dire qu'elle est la situation sur place? est il possible de monter jusqu'a anuradhapura?
Il n'y a d'homme plus complet que celui qui a beaucoup voyagé, qui a changé vingt fois la forme de sa pensée et de sa vie.
Personne (du moins je l'espère) n'a été assez naif pour croire que le gouvernement chinois aurait changé sa politique vis à vis du Tibet aprés les JO.
Aussi : QUE VIVE LE TIBET LIBRE....

Aussi : QUE VIVE LE TIBET LIBRE....
Carpe Diem
Bonjour!
Désolée de ma réponse tardive, je suis bien trop occupée en ce moment.
Peut-être es-tu déjà là pour te rendre compte que la situation est tranquille... et aucun souci pour anuradhapura. n'oublie pas d'aller visiter aussi mihintale qui est juste à côté et qui vaut vraiment la visite.
Bon voyage et peut-être à bientôt à Tangalla...
Séverine
Désolée de ma réponse tardive, je suis bien trop occupée en ce moment.
Peut-être es-tu déjà là pour te rendre compte que la situation est tranquille... et aucun souci pour anuradhapura. n'oublie pas d'aller visiter aussi mihintale qui est juste à côté et qui vaut vraiment la visite.
Bon voyage et peut-être à bientôt à Tangalla...
Séverine
bonjour
Apres 3 sejours au sri lanka je peux confirmer que la "guerre" au nord n'est pas plus importante que nos opérations contre les corses.
Je suis alle assez souvent à "TRICOMALEE" ville relativement pres de la zone demilitarisée, a part des postes de controle et beaucoup de réfugiés il n'y a pas de conflits
Eviter autant que faire se peut "COLOMBO" et le nord de l'isle.
Le reste notemment le sud et le centre est sans risques
je peux confirmer que la "guerre" au nord n'est pas plus importante que nos opérations contre les corses
Alors là pas d'accord, la situation n'est pas comparable, cette affirmation est une énormité.
Le conflit entre tamouls du nord et cinghalais est une vraie guerre civile avec des moyens militaires importants (tanks, aviation, bombardements) et des milliers de morts (entre 15 000 et 20 000 selon les sources) depuis 25 ans, vraiment rien à voir avec la Corse.
J'encourage les membres de VF à aller au Sri Lanka, mais pas au prix de la désinformation.
Alors là pas d'accord, la situation n'est pas comparable, cette affirmation est une énormité.
Le conflit entre tamouls du nord et cinghalais est une vraie guerre civile avec des moyens militaires importants (tanks, aviation, bombardements) et des milliers de morts (entre 15 000 et 20 000 selon les sources) depuis 25 ans, vraiment rien à voir avec la Corse.
J'encourage les membres de VF à aller au Sri Lanka, mais pas au prix de la désinformation.
re
La comparaison avec la Corse n'est qu'une image. C'est vrais que les tigres Tamoule n'ont pas les memes moyens qu"une armée réguliere, mais ce n'est pas une raison pour effrayer les touristes d'une maniere demesuré Si tu tires une ligne entre "TRINCOMALEE en passant par ANURADHAPURA et en descendant jusqu'a PUTTALAM au dessus il y a une zone demilitarise et en dessous tout le sud et le centre ne risque rien Pour ton information, les Tamouls possedent 2 avions de tourismes et il font de tant en tant des raids ('4 en 2 ans) pour lancer leurs bombes, ils doivent ouvrir les fenetres de ces avions Ce qui est vrais se sont les déportés et les gens qui fuient et surtout ceux qui vivent dansd les régions du nord
La comparaison avec la Corse n'est qu'une image. C'est vrais que les tigres Tamoule n'ont pas les memes moyens qu"une armée réguliere, mais ce n'est pas une raison pour effrayer les touristes d'une maniere demesuré Si tu tires une ligne entre "TRINCOMALEE en passant par ANURADHAPURA et en descendant jusqu'a PUTTALAM au dessus il y a une zone demilitarise et en dessous tout le sud et le centre ne risque rien Pour ton information, les Tamouls possedent 2 avions de tourismes et il font de tant en tant des raids ('4 en 2 ans) pour lancer leurs bombes, ils doivent ouvrir les fenetres de ces avions Ce qui est vrais se sont les déportés et les gens qui fuient et surtout ceux qui vivent dansd les régions du nord
Quand je parlais de tanks, aviation et bombardement, je pensais surtout à l'armée cinghalaise.
Mais l'important, c'est qu'on ne peut comparer les problèmes en Corse et la guerre civile au Sri Lanka, même comme image, la disproportion est beaucoup trop grande.
Si tu t'intéresses à mes posts sur ce pays, tu verras que j'encourage les gens à aller au Sri Lanka, pays où je retourne prochainement avec femme et enfant.
Bonjour Sudi,
Je cherche qq'1 qui soit sur place pour avoir des nouvelles fraiches. En effet, je suis en Inde et progette de partir des mardi prochain (28/04/09), mais vu les dernieres nouvelles, on me l'a fortement deconseille, ici en Inde. Les discussions du forum sont plutot rassurantes, a part une recente, sur une autre discussion, de qq'1 qui en revient et qui le deconseille vivement. Pourrais-tu me donner ton avis, toi qui es sur place? La situation est-elle identique, ou est-elle pire que d'habitude, apres les attentats de la semaine derniere. Me conseilles-tu de reporter mon sejour a plus tard, ou bien ce n'est pas necessaire?
Merci pour ton aide
Mel
Mel
Je reviens du Sri Lanka, j'ai donné mon sentiment ici : http://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2551715;sb=post_latest_reply;so=ASC;forum_view=forum_view_collapsed;page=last;#last
Bonjour Mel!
Désolée de voir ton message trop tard, tu es dans l'avion en ce moment... Mais j'ai vu que d'autres t'avais répondu, tant mieux...
Si 1977 (ton pseudo) est ton âge, on a le même âge... Si tu passes par Tangalla, ça me ferait plaisir de te rencontrer et d'échanger nos expériences de vie en inde et au sri lanka... tu peux me contacter par sms ou tél au +94 (0)775 40 26 79.
Bon voyage et au plaisir de te rencontrer, Séverine
Désolée de voir ton message trop tard, tu es dans l'avion en ce moment... Mais j'ai vu que d'autres t'avais répondu, tant mieux...
Si 1977 (ton pseudo) est ton âge, on a le même âge... Si tu passes par Tangalla, ça me ferait plaisir de te rencontrer et d'échanger nos expériences de vie en inde et au sri lanka... tu peux me contacter par sms ou tél au +94 (0)775 40 26 79.
Bon voyage et au plaisir de te rencontrer, Séverine
Salut Severine,
Alors je crois kon a le meme age.
Je n'ai encore rien prevu sur la cote sud. En fait, je pense y passer seulement s'il me reste du temps. Cela dit j'ai pris ton num de tel, et si j'y passe, je t'appelerai. Voici aussi le mien: +919740727807
A bientot.
Je suis actuellement a Anuradapuram
Mel
Bonjour!
On verra... réponse typique des sri lankais ;) J'ai l'habitude de ne rien prévoir et de tout changer au dernier moment! ça doit être pareil en inde! ;)
Au plaisir de te rencontrer, Bon voyage, Séverine
On verra... réponse typique des sri lankais ;) J'ai l'habitude de ne rien prévoir et de tout changer au dernier moment! ça doit être pareil en inde! ;)
Au plaisir de te rencontrer, Bon voyage, Séverine
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Bonjour,
Après un faux départ en mars 2026 dû à l'annulation de mes vols Qatar, je reprogramme un voyage au Kerala en novembre. Pour mars, j'avais réservé et payé le trek de 2 jours/une nuit : Tiger trail dans le parc Periyar. Puis j'ai lu des avis horribles sur le parc. Sur VF, les avis sont anciens, et ne parlent pas du Tiger Trail. Aussi, avant de réserver à nouveau (j'ai le temps), quelqu'un l'a-t-il fait récemment et peut partager son expérience et ressenti. Je parle bien du Tiger Trail, pas des activités jeep/bateau du parc en lui-même, qui semblent plus relever du parc d'attractions. Merci
Après un faux départ en mars 2026 dû à l'annulation de mes vols Qatar, je reprogramme un voyage au Kerala en novembre. Pour mars, j'avais réservé et payé le trek de 2 jours/une nuit : Tiger trail dans le parc Periyar. Puis j'ai lu des avis horribles sur le parc. Sur VF, les avis sont anciens, et ne parlent pas du Tiger Trail. Aussi, avant de réserver à nouveau (j'ai le temps), quelqu'un l'a-t-il fait récemment et peut partager son expérience et ressenti. Je parle bien du Tiger Trail, pas des activités jeep/bateau du parc en lui-même, qui semblent plus relever du parc d'attractions. Merci
Bonjour à toutes et tous
Je vais faire un séjour en Assam et j'aimerais savoir quel type d'adaptateur électrique il faut c'est à dite M ou D ou les deux ?
Merci
Hello,
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there? Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now? So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Thanks in advance for your help! 😊
Hi there, I think you're on the right track—you plan the itinerary and book the rooms in advance, and that’s it.
Not only do you save time, but you also know where you’ll be staying each night. Choosing well on Booking (or elsewhere) is actually a pleasure!
For safaris, given the number of jeeps with drivers available, it’s unlikely you’ll be turned away... the real issue is more about the concentration of jeeps around the animals.
I travel like you do—train, bus, tuk-tuk, and sometimes taxi. Ride-hailing apps like PickMe and other VTCs are mostly in big cities.
For the mountain train, due to severe flooding, service was interrupted on the line between Kandy and Ella. Check ahead, because reservations for this train are very complicated, if not impossible.
For the Colombo/Kandy train, you reserve your seats by buying the ticket before boarding. In the south, no need to book in advance for trains.
In Sri Lanka, there’s always a solution for getting around—just ask your hosts. They have trusted contacts at their fingertips. But still, compare prices—😏 smart move!
I stick to booking my nights and keep pre-planned activities to a minimum.
For reservations you can’t skip, it’s the beach stays you’ll want to secure.
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book... If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
Have a great day,
Virginie
It seems there’s a ferry from Nagapattinam to Jaffna in India. Has anyone here taken this ferry before? My main question is how to get to Nagapattinam—by train, bus? And from which town further south, of course.
Thanks, friends!
Gaston
Gaston
Hi there.
We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa.
We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee.
We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think?
As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access.
We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks, Marie
Hi there,
We just got back from a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka as a couple, and while planning the trip, we found plenty of info on the itinerary, places to see, and transportation, but much fewer clear reports on the actual budget to expect once there. Yet, that was an important point for us because we like to plan ahead a little before traveling.
So, we took the time to break down our complete budget after the trip. In our case, we spent around **930 € per person** for 2 weeks, being careful without depriving ourselves, mixing guesthouses, more comfortable hotels, quite a few activities, and even a private driver for part of the stay.
What we found interesting when crunching the numbers is that in Sri Lanka, it’s not necessarily meals or short trips that blow the budget, but rather flights, certain accommodations, cultural activities, and all those little expenses we sometimes forget, like tips.
If this can help other travelers get a better idea, we’ve put everything together on our blog with our experience, a detailed breakdown of expenses, and practical info on money while there, withdrawals, and tipping:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/budget-sri-lanka-pour-un-voyage-de-2-semaines/
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Happy travels and enjoy your adventure! !
Hi everyone,
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi there,
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
Thanks in advance.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service. Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online. Thanks in advance!
Kloki
Hey fellow travelers,
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
I’m spending two weeks studying Hindi in the mornings in Delhi, in the Hauz Khas neighborhood. What spots should I check out in this area? Any cafés to chill at? How do I get to other parts of Delhi? By rickshaw? Is it easy to negotiate the price upfront?
Thanks in advance. 😊 Marlène
Hi,
I’m leaving this Saturday for Northern India from 15/02 to 27/02. I’m planning to visit New Delhi, Agra, Chand Baori, Jaipur, Ranthambore, Bundi, Udaipur, and Jodhpur.
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
What’s the best way to get around? I was thinking of doing everything by train. Maybe taking the bus for some stretches?
As for renting a car with a driver, it seems expensive, so I’ve pretty much ruled that out. Unless someone’s got space for the same dates?
Thanks for your insights!
Hi everyone,
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
We’re heading out in March for this trek. We’re used to hiking and long-distance treks, but this’ll be our first time in Nepal.
QUESTION: People from Nepal are telling us it’s MANDATORY to have guides! Is this true, or is it just agencies trying to get work for their staff?
The Lonely Planet says: "In April 2023, the government announced that every trekker would need to hire the services of a porter or a licensed guide to obtain the TIMS permit. The law isn’t enforced, and by 2025, there were no longer any obligations for teahouse treks."
What do you think? What’s your experience? Thanks for your feedback.
Hi,
I’d like to arrive in India at New Delhi Airport with some cash. I was wondering if the exchange rates at the airport are any good or if it’s best to avoid them (and exchange in the city instead?).
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
NAMASTE NEPAL! PRACTICAL INFO AND EXPERIENCE FEEDBACK
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Stay from March 25 to April 16, 2025
· Flight tickets Air India (via Delhi) (via Skyscanner) = 1130 € per person · Planned budget (and respected without too many restrictions and while buying a few small gifts) = 2000 € for the stay for two. Buses, taxis, and entrance fees to various sites represent a budget to consider. Meals are cheap. Drinks like beer/Coke, however, are not cheap and cost the equivalent of a meal. · Exchange rate of the rupee during our stay = 0.0064 € (the exchange rate is almost identical everywhere, including at the airport). · At the airport, purchase of two SIM cards (phone) = 1000 NPR x 2 for 28 days. · Kathmandu: we had booked the hotel upon arrival: Kathmandu Boutique Hotel (+977 015 357 446 – email: booking@kathmanduboutiquehotel.com), very well located in a quiet alley off the street, south of Thamel, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square. A hotel like Nepal knows how to do, where tall people will have to duck. Night + breakfast = 18 € for two. Very warm welcome, great location, excellent value for money. · Bhaktapur: we had also booked a hotel for the end of our stay because the chance of the year 2025 made the Nepali New Year and Bisket Jatra particularly festive in Bhaktapur: Manju Baha Hotel School (+977 976 7234014 – email: manjubahahotel@gmail.com) located in an old monastery. "A social enterprise transforming an old monastery into a charming hotel, offering professional hospitality training to underprivileged Nepali youth." Night + breakfast = 32 € for two. Beautifully decorated room. Very warm welcome. Don’t miss the Changunarayan site (near Bhaktapur), it’s amazing. And if you’re lucky enough to be in Bhaktapur in mid-April for 3 days, there’s the Bisket Jatra festivities (Newari festival), joyful, noisy, fun, and wild… · Pokhara (hotel recommended by the Kathmandu hotel): Hotel Green Tara, Lakeside, 10th street, set back, quiet (Tel. +977 61 462698 – email: greentara_67@hotmail.com) · Trek permit (Lower Mustang, no need for an agency or guide, permits checked at Ghasa and Jomsom) = 2000 NPR per person (2 ID photos) · Bus Kathmandu/Pokhara and return = 2000 NPR per person · Bus Pokhara/Jomsom, 2 one-way tickets = 2800 NPR. · Taxi: negotiation with a driver we recommend, Vicky (+977 984 075 599). You explain what you want, negotiate the price, and he waits for you during the visit. Very charming, we used him several times. For example: departure from our hotel at 10 AM -> Boudhanath/Pashupatinath/Patan return at 5 PM to the hotel = 6500 NPR – Swayambhunath (round trip) = 1200 NPR · Site prices: https://ntb.gov.np/plan-your-trip/before-you-come/heritage-site-entry-fees o Visitor Pass for Kathmandu Durbar Square (for the duration of the stay, show your visa) = 1000 NPR per person (1 ID photo) o Bhaktapur Durbar Square (old town) = 1800 NPR per person o Patan = 1000 NPR per person o Swayambhu Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Boudha Stupa = 200 NPR per person o Pashupatinath Temple = 1000 NPR per person (interesting to take a guide) o Changunarayan Temple (6 km north of Bhaktapur) = 400 NPR per person o Mountain Museum in Pokhara = 750 NPR per person · E-cigarettes: e-cigarettes are banned in India and confiscated whether they’re in carry-on or checked luggage. On the way there, we had kept them in our carry-on, they were confiscated in Delhi. On the way back, learning from our previous experience, we put them in our checked luggage. Someone came to get us to take them out of our bags and confiscate them… You can find e-cigarettes and products in Kathmandu.
* * *
I’m 74 years old. I went to Nepal in 1982, 1983, and the last time in 1986. I wanted to introduce this beautiful and endearing country to my husband, and it was… now or never. So we decided it was now.
I knew the trek starting from Pokhara: Naudanda/Birethanti/Ghorepani/Tatopani/Kalopani. There was no way I was going to do that trek, especially the 1000-meter staircase to reach Ghorepani… You have to stay humble with age.
Back then, the road didn’t exist. I didn’t consider, with the construction of this road (NH48) along the western bank of the Kali Gandaki, doing a trek along a windy and dusty road. Was there an alternative hiking trail on the eastern bank? No one answered my question on VoyageForum, so I did my research online. And I found this site: "Andrées de Ruiter and Prem Rai - Trekking the Annapurna Circuit, including the new NATT trails that avoid the road - A guide to one of the most beautiful trekking regions in Nepal and the world (2011) - NATT = New Annapurna Trekking Trail".
Phew! A solution was emerging. This circuit from 2011 wasn’t fully marked. The idea was to go from Jomsom to Tatopani, so we needed to make sure the path was well-marked all the way, which we did, and the path exists, marked in red and white!
So, with the walking times information, we built our 8-day circuit:
· Jomsom/Thinigaon · Thinigaon/Chimang · Chimang/Saura · Saura/Kokhetanti · Rest day or, if in good shape: loop to Sekong Lake · Kokhetanti/Jhipra Deurali · Jhipra Deurali/Kopchepani · Kopchepani/Tatopani
It’s a senior trek, after all. So the walking times noted on the sites indicated 3 hours or even 4 hours for the two longest stages. That pace suited us fine.
On March 29, we left Kathmandu (1400m), after visiting the must-see sites, by bus to Pokhara: 200 km and 8.5 hours on a chaotic road under construction. I had a memory of Pokhara where it was the first city where you could see the Himalayan range, especially Machhapuchhare. But the pollution is such, the dust raised by traffic and construction, that no horizon is visible except the first hills around Pokhara.
We stayed 24 hours in Pokhara (820m), and on March 31, we left our luggage at the hotel and set off with our lightest backpacks: change of clothes, toiletries, first aid kit, anti-chafing cream, water bottle, sleeping bag liner, and light shoes for the stages.
We took the bus to Jomsom: 160 km/7.5 hours including stops for bathroom breaks, tea, and lunch. The road is nothing but a chaos of potholes, landslides, construction, dust, rebuilding, and mudslides. In Ghasa, the bus stops, and we’re told we’re at a checkpoint and that the two foreigners in the bus, my husband and I, need to have our permits checked, which takes a few minutes. The driving is rock-and-roll, surprising, and courteous. The drivers have their codes, and on these improbable roads, they’re virtuosos.
We could have chosen the plane, but several reasons dissuaded us: if there’s too much wind, the planes don’t take off; personally, I wasn’t reassured about landing in Jomsom, and this transport has a cost.
We arrived around 2 PM in Jomsom (2720m), and despite the early wake-up, the nearly 8 hours on the bus, and the altitude, we decided to head straight to Thinigaon (2840m). At the Jomsom checkpoint, they told us it was a 30-minute walk. Great! Except we took an hour and a half on an uphill road, bent over to fight a strong wind. But the Himalayan range is there! The Dhaulagiri, the Nilgiri, the Annapurnas as a reward.
In Thinigaon, we found a room at the "Nilgiri View Hotel" run by a didi (big sister in Nepali). From the lodge’s roof, she proudly showed us the different peaks surrounding the village and told us, worried, that it hadn’t snowed here for 3 years. She said there are very few tourists, that the season is rather in September/October/November. It seems there’s not a soul in this village, yet mules pass through the narrow street paved with large flat stones, their bells ringing. We dine at 6 PM and go to bed… Room = 1200 NPR and dinner, breakfast, and drinks = 2560 NPR.
On April 1, we set off at 9 AM, not for Chimang as planned but for Marpha! The didi from the Thinigaon lodge had said it was a 3-hour walk. The first part of this stage is attractive, the mountains are magnificent and imposing, the landscape is superb, there’s no one around, a feeling of being "alone in the world." We follow Dhumbra Tal, this small green lake. The path is a rocky track that climbs steeply. Then, around a hill, we start the big descent that joins the Kali Gandaki. We face the wind head-on, and the violent gusts take our breath away, throw us off balance, and envelop us in dust. We see the road on the other side of the Kali Gandaki. We arrive in the village of Chhairo at 2 PM, completely exhausted and with blistered feet, after 5 hours of walking instead of the planned 3.5 hours.
We’re welcomed by the village nurse, who tells us there’s a lodge in the village. Chhairo is a Tibetan village, a 20-minute walk from Marpha (according to the locals, multiply by 2 or even 3 for us…). We’re going to revise our trek plan and, first of all, spend the night in Chhairo.
The lodge is quite pleasant, and Karma, the hostess, is very friendly. She asks about our plans and suggests we stay in Chhairo the next day, from where we can visit Marpha and also Chimang, a 1-hour walk away, in light mode, meaning without backpacks. She invites us to participate in a village ceremony the next evening.
We immediately accept the proposal, as our feet need rest and the welcome is so warm… Dinner and bed!
We reworked our trek plan, which was too ambitious for our untrained bodies and, let’s face it… no longer in our first youth. In the initial plan, we thought there wouldn’t be too much elevation gain following the Kali Gandaki, but checking the map, we realize there might be significant elevation changes between Sauru and Sirkung. So we plan:
· Tomorrow: visit Marpha (2670m) and Chimang (2744m) · April 3: bus from Chhairo (2700m) to Kalopani (2530m) and continue on foot to Ghasa (2010m) · April 4: Ghasa/Pairataplo (1940m) · April 5: Pairatapla/Gadpar (1580m) · April 6: Gadpar/Narchyang (1510m) · April 7: Narchyang/Tatopani (1190m) · April 8: return to Pokhara.
Normally, it’s all downhill…
April 2, a rest day then… We set off in the morning to explore Marpha. We have to take a temporary bridge because the suspension bridge is closed due to road construction. We join the road and arrive in Marpha, a village famous for its apple orchards, brandy, cider, and apple juice production. This village is magnificent with its stone houses and monastery clinging to the hillside. The road construction spared it. There are people, but very few Western tourists.
We have lunch in Marpha and go back through Chhairo to take the path to Chimang. We cross a fragrant pine forest and find the rocky path; the landscape is splendid. We walk quietly, passing peaceful buffaloes and cows, and arrive at the foot of a stone staircase… 275 steps (which we counted on the way back) leading us to the village of Chimang. Chimang is an isolated Newari village that seems a bit desolate. Despite the slopes, there are crops on every little bit of land. Thankfully, we changed our initial program because there’s no lodge in this village, contrary to what we saw on a map… We wander through the village, which seems very deserted, have coffee in a house from another world, and then head back to Chhairo.
A rest day? = 5 hours of walking!!
Dinner and village ceremony. From what we understand, this ceremony is in honor of the Dalai Lama. Men, women, and children in traditional costumes gather twice a month; they dance, make, and offer small sweet cakes with Tibetan tea (made from tea, yak butter—often rancid—water, and salt). Surprising for first-timers…
Around 10 PM, we leave the ceremony; tomorrow morning, we need to be on the roadside by 7 AM to catch the bus to Kalopani…
This village of Chhairo is very pleasant and welcoming, no tourists, just two motorcyclists who arrived in the evening, one of whom participated in the ceremony and discreetly poured his Tibetan tea outside.
Lodge: "Norsang Tibetan Guesthouse and Restaurant". Total bill for 2 nights, 2 dinners, 2 breakfasts, and drinks = 8000 NPR.
April 3: bus from Chhairo to Kalopani, about 1.5 hours for the 20 km (200 NPR per person). We descend on the right bank of the Kali Gandaki. We find the red and white markings to resume the trek toward Ghasa. We’re in a fragrant pine forest, the Dhaulagiri on one side and the Annapurnas on the other, magnificent, and the path is pleasant and easy. We get a bit lost in this forest, always looking for the markings. Near Lete, two trekkers pass us, and we meet them again a little further on with two very young children, to whom we give the 2 hard-boiled eggs I didn’t eat this morning. They accepted them without hesitation.
We arrive in a village and ask for directions to Ghasa. The young girls point the way. But we come across a forest being logged, trees cut in all directions. We turn back and ask for confirmation. They confirm… But the two young girls catch up with us and clear the way. We have to step over, go around, and cross the felled trees, with no indication at all. Through this pick-up sticks of felled trees, the girls lead us to the top of a stone staircase, indicating that was the path. It’s the only place where we saw rhododendrons in bloom.
We descend the staircase. At the bottom, to the left, there’s a bridge to go toward Choyo, and to the right, a path to Ghasa. We take the right path and join the road. We should normally find the red and white markings, but we don’t… So we continue on the western bank road of the Kali Gandaki.
A little before the village of Misi, we see fumaroles on the opposite bank that seem to come from the ground. We don’t understand. We stopped to eat in the village of Misi (noodle soup = 600 NPR), but it’s hard to communicate with the elderly people running the guesthouse.
We continued on the road, not finding the marked path parallel to the road. Landslides, both on the left and right banks, seem to have taken over the marked routes. It’s a place where the Kali Gandaki gorge narrows, and on the opposite bank, the mountain smokes more and more, and we now hear the crackling of fire. Across from us, the mountain is burning… Our initial plan had us passing on that burning bank right now…
We arrive in Ghasa at 3:30 PM, a 6.5-hour stage but with a 1-hour stop at noon. We’re at the "Florida Guesthouse and Restaurant." From our room, we see the mountain smoking on the other side of the river, and at night, we see the flames. In this village, posters show Himalayan eagles and vultures that seem to be protected species. Indeed, we saw (and heard) 3 eagles circling today.
April 4 – Today, heading to Pairothapla or Kopchepani depending on our feet, accommodation options, and simply our desires.
No more smoke on the mountain this morning. It’s chilly, 7:45 AM, the sky is clear, just a smell of smoke outside.
Price of the lodge = 1000 NPR for the night + 3580 NPR for meals.
We cross Ghasa, which stretches over more than a kilometer. We have a drink at the last guesthouse in the village, and the didi, when she learns our destination, tells us to be careful because the villages we’re going to aren’t safe. Should we distribute our rupees in different pockets? Nah, we kept going.
At the exit of Ghasa, we find the red and white markings and take the suspension bridge to cross the boiling waters of the Kali Gandaki. The passage is impressive because the river is tumultuous. Lots of climbs and even more descents. We’re back on the eastern bank. It’s hot! On the narrow path, we meet a group of buffaloes. Who has the right of way? We decide to stick as close as possible to the rock wall and move forward calmly. The buffaloes look at us, chewing placidly, with no intention of jumping on us. Phew!
After a 5-hour stage (including stops), we arrive in Pairothapla, with hot feet and firm thighs, and decide we won’t go any further. It’s a good thing because there’s a lodge, the most basic so far, but with a great welcome. We have a meal and a short nap. The buffaloes we met on the way belong to this house. They come to drink at the fountain by the path.
Our host, very pleasant, doesn’t know what to do to please us and is very attentive. He wants to chat. He has two children, a 4-year-old girl and a 7-year-old boy. Where do they go to school? Do they go? He tells us that the fires in the mountain are caused by people, but for what reason? We won’t find out, but it’s illegal. From here, we can still see smoke rising in the distance. The wife is a bit less friendly. Corn kernels dry on a woven straw mat on the ground, and the mom sorts them.
From where we are, we overlook the valley and see the road under construction winding along the mountainside on the other bank.
Dinner on the terrace of the house overlooking the path, windbreaker and fleece on: dal bhat chicken for me and chicken curry for my husband: "organic" products, at least local production. There are small vegetable gardens everywhere with all sorts of vegetables.
April 5 – While we’re having breakfast on the terrace of our lodge, 5 porters, straps on their foreheads, heavily loaded, pass by on the path. A few minutes later, a group of 9 people appears. It must be said that since the beginning of our journey, we’ve met very few hikers. Two backpackers in Chhairo, the two hikers near Lete, two female hikers passed us before Pairothapla, a solo female hiker passed us…
The lodge in Pairothapla is called "Bimala Lodge & Thakali Kitchen" – Price for night + 4 meals + 2 breakfasts = 3000 NPR.
The descent toward the Kali Gandaki involves climbs whose steps we didn’t count. Clearly, the landslides on the mountain cause changes to the official ACAP trek marked in red and white, and the marking updates can’t keep up with the pace of these landslides. It’s almost always by chance that we find the markings. Fortunately, we can follow the power line that guides us somewhat.
Drink stop in Kopchepani, the legs are fine, but the feet don’t like being tightly enclosed. A group of trekkers with porters passes on the path. We met buffaloes that we kindly let pass; the path was wide enough, but it was a staircase going up, and we didn’t want to take any risks.
Across, a view of the magnificent Rupse Waterfall on the other bank of the Kali Gandaki, at the bottom, lots of vehicles and people.
Arrival in Gadpar after crossing a rather unwelcoming small village and cultivated gardens between dry stone walls, each better built than the last.
First lodge spotted, first lodge adopted to answer the call of our feet, and a very warm welcome from the owner. Since we hadn’t eaten at noon, we had Tibetan bread/jam. 6-hour stage including 1 hour of stops. Night + dinner + breakfast + drinks = 5060 NPR
April 6 – Today, heading to Narchyang.
For several days, we’ve seen banana trees with their bunches of fruit and even a prickly pear with large fruits ripening.
This stage is quite peaceful and pleasant. We take a suspension bridge to cross a tributary of the Kali Gandaki. While we’re resting for a moment before crossing the bridge, a couple of porters, a man and a woman, arrive and start across the bridge with their wood load in a basket held by a strap on their forehead, making them bend. We set off too… lighter than them.
On the other side of the bridge… a stone staircase, and it climbs steeply. The porter couple didn’t take this staircase; they went right on the path.
At the top of the staircase, we arrive in Narchyang after a 4-hour stage. A magnificent waterfall overlooks the village. We get lost in this fairly large village looking for a lodge. After wandering around for a while, we ask for directions, and an 84-year-old man takes us through the whole village and accompanies us to a very nice lodge run by a woman.
We chat with our hostess, who asks where we’re from and where we’re going. We explain that we want to reach Tatopani the next day and then return to Pokhara. She tells us there are 4x4s going directly to Pokhara and that it would probably be easier than taking a bus that might be full in Tatopani. After a quick consultation, we decide to return to Pokhara the next day by 4x4. She finds us a 4x4 with 2 seats left, departure at 8 AM – 5 hours on the road and 1500 NPR per person. A charming didi who does everything to be pleasant and helpful.
Narchyang community lodge = night + snacks + dinner + breakfast = 3000 NPR.
There you go, our trek ends tomorrow. Many necessary changes and adaptations to our initial trek, but no regrets, it was superb and a great experience that, for my part, I won’t be able to repeat. Always this encounter with the endearing, welcoming, curious, and very kind Nepali people. It was now or never, and we did it!
* * *
In conclusion, 3 full weeks in Nepal is a duration that allows visiting Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur, enjoying the various sites, and soaking in the atmosphere and urban Nepali life.
The trek, even revised and corrected, allowed us to get close to the impressive Annapurna and Dhaulagiri peaks. One or two acclimatization days might be necessary to get the body in tune with this magical and extraordinary land.
Hi there,
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
My partner and I are heading to Nepal for 15 days in March—she’s a schoolteacher. We’ll be trekking to Everest Base Camp and then doing the loop via the Gokyo Lakes.
We’d love to set up a fundraiser to donate to a school in Namche, along with visiting the school. It’s something that really matters to us. But it’s been tough to get in touch with a school—any ideas on how to go about this? Thanks!
Hello my fellow globetrotters, could anyone tell me how to find the French colonial cemetery in Pondicherry? It seems tricky to locate.
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
Thanks so much for your help! Take care, pace yourselves, and travel far.
Cheers, Régine
I'm looking for a small, not-too-touristy restaurant in Fort Kochi. Do you know one not too far from Jacob Road?
Thanks
Bonjour,
Nous nous apprêtons ma femme et moi pour ce circuit du 27 mars au 8 avril.
J'aimerai savoir si quelqu'un est déjà parti avec l'agence Salaun Holidays? combien de personnes en moyenne par groupe ? combien en liquidités ?
Nous avons des doutes sur les vêtements à prendre.....+ draps et taies ?
Et si vous avez des petits tuyaux pour ne pas être trop ennuyé par les mendiants et démarcheurs.
Vos remarques seront toujours bonnes à prendre.
Merci à l'avance.
Bonjour,
je voudrais faire un voyage au Rajasthan et la vallée du Gange: c'est la première fois que je ferais un voyage lointain et pense le faire avec l'agence BTtours à partir de la Belgique (ou Salaün en France). Quelqu'un a-t-il déjà voyagé avec cette agence et peut-il me donner son avis? Je pensais partir vers le mois de novembre, mais certains me disent que, même là, il ferait relativement froid (8°C) est-ce possible?
D'autre part, quelle est le meilleur moyen pour se procurer de l'argent? Peut-on entrer en Inde avec de l'argent liquide sur soi?
Merci pour les réponses.
bonjour à tous,
Je prépare un voyage en Inde du Nord (Rajasthan, vallée du Gange avec Varanasi (Benares)).
Mon agence de voyage me propose deux TO, Asia avec le circuit "Saris et Saddhus" et Salaun avec le circuit "l'inde du nord et la vallée du Gange". J'ai déjà voyagé au Sri Lanka et en Inde du Sud avec Asia. Les voyages se sont très bien passés.
Je ne connais pas Salaun Holidays. Leur circuit semble plus complet avec une journée de détente (16 jours sur place) . Voyage avec Air France.
Est ce qu'un de membre de ce forum a fait le circuit "l'inde du Nord et la vallée du Gange" avec Salaun? Puis je avoir votre avis sur le TO Salaun Holidays?
Merci beaucoup
Je prépare un voyage en Inde du Nord (Rajasthan, vallée du Gange avec Varanasi (Benares)).
Mon agence de voyage me propose deux TO, Asia avec le circuit "Saris et Saddhus" et Salaun avec le circuit "l'inde du nord et la vallée du Gange". J'ai déjà voyagé au Sri Lanka et en Inde du Sud avec Asia. Les voyages se sont très bien passés.
Je ne connais pas Salaun Holidays. Leur circuit semble plus complet avec une journée de détente (16 jours sur place) . Voyage avec Air France.
Est ce qu'un de membre de ce forum a fait le circuit "l'inde du Nord et la vallée du Gange" avec Salaun? Puis je avoir votre avis sur le TO Salaun Holidays?
Merci beaucoup
Hi there.
We’re heading to India at the end of December for a month.
I planned an itinerary: Delhi, Nawalgarh, Sikar, Jodhpur, Udaipur, Chittaurgarh, Bundi, Jaipur, Bharatpur, and back to Delhi.
Our driver told us it’s not possible because there are no roads.
He’s suggesting the usual tourist circuit, which we don’t want to do.
What do you think of my route?
Any tips?
Thanks, community!
Hello,
We’re a group of 4 looking for a driver and car for our stay in Kerala from November 22 to December 12, 2025. We’ve already planned an itinerary starting from Cochin.
We’ve traveled with a driver before during our trip to Rajasthan.
Thanks for your replies!
Yves
Hi everyone,
we’re heading to Tamil Nadu and Kerala at the start of the year for 30 days. We did Rajasthan 12 years ago, but things change fast.
I’ve read that to get a SIM card, you have to buy it at a shop and then go to the operator to get a number; you’d also need an Indian mobile number. Has anyone here had recent experience with this?
For buses and trains, do you need to book them well in advance?
Any tips are welcome—thanks in advance!
Happy holidays to all,
Philippe
Hi everyone! 🙂
My partner (who’s a teacher—hence the summer holidays) and I are heading to Eastern India for 23 days in July. This is my 5th trip to India, but her first.
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂
We fly into Delhi on July 7th and leave from Delhi on the 23rd (since our flight to Kolkata arrived late at night, and I wanted to show Agra and Varanasi to my partner).
We love getting off the beaten track and meeting people, so we’ll mostly be taking the train.
Here’s what we’re planning:
- **DELHI**: 1 night on the way (short because the plane is supposed to land at 01:55), then we take the train at 13:00 - **GWALIOR**: 3 nights, including a day trip to **AGRA** by train to see the Taj Mahal and the Red Fort (I find Agra too touristy to stay overnight). Otherwise, in Gwalior, the Fort, the temples, the Man Mandir Palace, and the Jai Vilas Palace if we have time. - **ORCHHA**: 2 nights... *maybe skip this to spend more time in VARANASI?* - **VARANASI**: overnight train + 3 nights, the Ghats, temples... maybe a day trip to **SARNATH**. - **KOLKATA**: overnight train + 3 nights. Maybe a countryside excursion to the ashram in Channa. *- Here we’re hesitating over 2 nights: either 2 nights in **SHANTINIKETAN** with a visit to **CHANNA** on the way, or a 2-day excursion to the **SUNDARBAN** nature park. But is it worth it in July during the monsoon?* - **PURI**: overnight train + 4 nights. *We’re planning to do everything from Puri, as it seems nicer than staying in BHUBANESWAR. What do you think?* Visit **KONARK** and **CHILIKA LAKE**. *Is it worth visiting Chilika Lake this season? Another question: can you swim in Puri, or is it too dangerous (waves)?* - Train to **BHUBANESWAR**, then a flight from BHUBANESWAR to **DELHI**, - 2 nights in **DELHI**, visiting Jama Masjid, and *either Humayun’s Tomb, Safdarjung’s Tomb, or Qutb Minar.*
Back to Paris. Total: 23 nights.
What do you think of these choices? What about the options we’re still unsure about *(in bold/italics)*? Thanks so much! 🙂
hi everyone, I’m putting together an itinerary for Sri Lanka in September 2026, so I’m focusing on the east side of the island because of the monsoon on the west coast:
Day 1 Kandy: botanical garden, fruit and vegetable market, traditional dance show
Day 2 Kandy-Ella train
Day 3-4 Kumana NP or Lunugamvehera Block 6+5
Day 5-6 Komari / Pottuvi lagoon safari
Day 7 head up the east coast along the beaches to reach Wasgamuwa NP
Day 8 Wasgamuwa NP early morning safari, then Polonnaruwa (temple and palace)
Day 9-10 Sigiriya Lion’s Rock and Dambulla, cave temple
Day 11-12 Wilpattu NP early morning safari, then late afternoon
Day 13-14 Kalpitiya, snorkeling and chilling
Day 15 return to Colombo
Thanks for sharing your thoughts on whether this route is doable—we’ll be traveling with a driver-guide.
Feel free to mention any great tips or good homestay experiences you’ve had, since we prefer those.
Hi everyone, Kerala experts (especially Marien!)
In January, I’m planning another trip to Kerala. We’ll arrive in Kochi and travel up the coast by train to Gokarna.
So I’m reaching out to ask if it’s worth stopping for a few days in any of the following spots (not all, of course—just one or two that are really worth it...). From what I’ve seen, few Western tourists stop along this coast, given how little info there is about it:
Mahe, Thalassery, Taliparamba, Nileshwar, Bekal, Kasaragod
I’m not mentioning Kannur because we’ve already been there, specifically Thottada Beach, and we’re familiar with the southern destinations (Trivandrum, Kovalam, etc.).
Thanks for your replies!
Anne
Hello,
My husband and I usually spend a month in January/February in southern India. We end our trip in Gokarna and fly back from Vasco de Gama Airport in Dabolim. So, it might make sense to spend a few days in a nice, quiet spot in southern Goa. Do you have any recommendations?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’d like to head to Upper Dolpo in September/October 2026.
Does anyone know the current state of the roads in the area?
Specifically for getting from Saldang to Dho Tarap.
Also, what do you think about the weather between September 20th and October 20th?
Any tips would be much appreciated.
I’ve already checked out the info on Martinpierre’s site—it’s super detailed about the region, but the details are a bit outdated.
Thanks in advance for your advice.
Thierry





