Bnjour aux amoureux du Soudan,
Je vois que le Soudan est encore visité et traversé par quelques voyageurs qui semble l'apprécier autant que je l'aimé quand je l'ai visité il y a 33 ans, en 1980.
Je vous propose de le revisiter avec une sélection de mes diapos de l'époque, afin de voir s'il a beaucoup changé ou pas.
A cet époque le pays n'avais pas connu la guerre civile. Il n'y avait aucun problème de sécurité, mais les transports étaient très laborieux et l'hébergement inexistant. De ce que j'ai pu lire de vos posts ou blogs (Jérémie et Claire), ce qui n'a pas changé c'est la gentillesse des habitants, les problèmes de langue, et les insectes le soir le long du Nil qui vous rentrent par les yeux, bouche et oreilles ;-)
1ere partie:
Assouan - Wadi Halfa:
Une seule possibilité, le bateau, c'est à dire deux bateaux reliés l'un à l'autre par une barge, chargés de gens et de marchandises, qui faisiaent le trajet en 3 jours. 3 jours à regarder le paysage, les soudanais jouer aux cartes, boire du thé, partager la nourriture... Ca non plus ça n'a pas du changer:
je ne sais pas pourquoi les images s'affichent en imagettes, elles sont pourtant chargées sur le site...
2eme partie: Wadi Halfa - Khartoum
Là encore pas trop le choix, c'est le train. Pas de route goudronnée, et le Nil non navigable. Un vieux train colonial, bondé, qui s'arrêtait des heures, soit pour cause de panne, soir pour laisser passer un train annoncé sur la même voix unique.
A chaque arrêt les gens sortaient, mais il ne fallat pas trop s'éloigner car il pouvait repartir et si on le ratait il fallait attendre le suivant 3 ou 4 jours après. Nombreux, pour éviter la foule, montaient et voyageaient sur le toit du train. Le trajet durait une petite semaine, avant d'arriver à Khartoum. Ça si que ça a changé!
A Khartoum, je me rappelle des superbes et nombreux jus de fruits servis par des marchands ambulants ou pas, qu'on pouvait enfin déguster: canne, goyage, mangue, etc... Il fallait un profiter car le reste du voyage, ce sera un autre menu...
c'est bien le même (ou presque..) je parle du Ferry ... le pays lui a forcement un peu changé !!!😛 surement as tu un super souvenir de la nuité sur le pont supérieur et de l'excellente nourriture du bord !!!!🙂😉
nous avons été enchanté de l'accueil des soudanais lors de nos 2,5 semaines de traversée du pays.. je n'ose le recommander a visiter ( hors overlander) la peur panique provoquée est trop grande 😉😉😉
nous y avons fait uniquement des Bush camp (hors Karthoum) et avons été accueillis par les nubiens et les soudanais de façon fort aimable et accueillante..
bon c'est vrai les contrôles de police et autres sont pesants... mais uniquement emprunt de curiosité ( du moins de notre vécu)
L'objectif initial était de rejoindre Juba, au sud. Mais c'était l'été, saison des pluies, quand le Nil déborde pour former une vaste étendue d'eau (le Sudd) dans lequel même les bateaux se perdent, ce qui a rendu si difficile la remontée du Nil par les explorateurs. Donc la voie ferrée était coupée, tout comme les routes. Seule solution, contourner par l'ouest en tirant vers le Kordofan, via El Obeid, Kadugli, et voir si de la bas on pourra rejoindre Juba. La encore pas de toute goudronnée. Il y avait bien un train mais on venait d'en manger une semaine, donc on a opté pour la piste en transports en commun. C'est à dire que de vieux camions Bedford, par dessus leur cargaison, embarquaient des passagers entassés et ballotés dans tous les sens par les cahots de la piste. Dialogue difficile: quelques mots d'anglais et d'arabe, mais des sourires, des rires et des échanges. Quand le camion s'enlisait, tout le monde descendait pour pousser.
A l'arrêt pas d'hotels, mais des espèces de relais qui servaient du chaï (thé), des fouls (fèves bouillies) et parfois du mouton. Pour lits, des angarebs, cadres en bois avec des lanières en cuir ou cordes comme matelas. Et les pauses chaï à l'ombre des baobabs!
Rustique, mais je me souviens surtout de la gentillesse des soudanais, et de la totale sécurité: pas un vol, pas une escroquerie: un voyageur c'est sacré.... Qui donc sont les plus civilisés?
Est ce que ça a changé?
A cet époque le pays n'avais pas connu la guerre civile. Il n'y avait aucun problème de sécurité, mais les transports étaient très laborieux et l'hébergement inexistant. :
Juste un petit justificatif: la première guerre civile soudanaise a eu lieu de 1955 à 1972.... (je suis en train de faire une recherche sur le Soudan, donc ça m'a fait tilté de lire ça).
Joli compte rendu de voyage, merci de partager ces souvenirs. Je me rends au Soudan en septembre puis en février, j'espère faire de belles rencontres.
Je suis allée en Nubie soudanaise en février 2012. Mon voyage était essentiellement axé sur les "Pharaons Noirs" et les Nubiens. J'ai été très intéressée par les Temples (Soleb, Musawwarat Es Sufra, Naqa etc.), Méroé et ses pyramides bien sûr, les tombes, pyramides (Nuri), le Jebel Barkal, Old Dongola, etc., les paysages qu'offrent le Nil, les gravures.... et la population nubienne si accueillante. J'ai essentiellement dormi chez l'habitant dans des maisons nubiennes. De cette expérience, j'ai l'impression que en dehors de Kartoum qui a changé depuis 1980, les villages n'ont pas beaucoup changé. J'ai traversé le Nil en empruntant ferry, bateau à moteur ou felouque et toujours la même impression d'être dans un autre monde. J'ai adoré ce voyage, étant accompagnée d'un chauffeur et guide je n'ai pas été confrontée aux "tracasseries" policières.
Ci-joint une photo du ferry : le Coran pour la protection d'Allah et le boulon pour les manoeuvres.
Cordialement
C'est vrai que les tombes napatéennes d'El Kuru sont magnifiques.... et que bon sang....les soudanais sont accueillants 🙂
bien que voyageant seuls les contrôles de police n'étaient pas aussi pesant que cela... il faut qu'ils occupent leur temps.. nous en étions une source 😉
Je suis partie avec Lendi Travel, -Waleed Arafat-. Mon guide était le conservateur du Musée du Djebel Barkal. Le talentueux chauffeur (jamais un problème dans les dunes) était aussi un excellent cuisinier. Tous les deux étaient vraiment gentils et à l'écoute. Tous les deux parlent anglais.
Cela a été un très beau voyage, j'avais fait mon itinéraire avec tous les sites que je voulais visiter. J'ai dormi chez l'habitant dans des maisons nubiennes plusieurs nuits. Le confort est un peu sommaire mais c'est tellement bien de rencontrer les gens et de voir comment ils vivent.
Cordialement
Même organisation mais avec Mashansharti. notre guide était le conservateur du musée de Krt. le chauffeur était cuisinier et nous faisait tous les matins des crêpes super. nous logions également chez l'habitant.A dongola, nous avons dormi chez la soeur du guide qui a préparé pour nos enfants des gâteaux d'anniversaire car lors de nos 2 passages c'était leur anniversaire; Génial et très émouvant. notre circuit nous a conduit sur les 2 rives du nil jusqu'à Abri au nord en passant par l'île de Saï. A méroé, avons dormi en campant devant les pyramides!!!
Amitiés
Ah les merveilleuses crêpes du petit déjeuner ! Pourtant je suis bretonne et j'en ai mangé des crêpes dans mon enfance, celles confectionnées tous
les matins par Hatim étaient vraiment très bonnes. Très, très beaux souvenirs, et je me demande si je ne retournerais pas au Soudan pour revivre ces beaux
moments.
Merci pour ces photos et, à toutes et tous, pour vos commentaires sur ce si attachant Soudan (et surtout ses habitant(e)s) que j'ai connu comme expat. Dans les années 2000.
La vie y était parfois rude, mais si chaleureuse et basée sur des valeurs simples, mais fondammentales ! J'ai la nostalgie ...
Heureux de voir que 20 ou 30 ans après, le point commun à tous les souvenirs est la gentillesse des soudanais.
Avec beaucoup de retard (because vacances) je termine mon retour sur le Soudan en 1980:
Nous arrivons enfin à Kadugli et aux les Monts Nouba rendus célèbres par Leni Rifenstahl, et c'est... la Normandie! Enfin je veux dire abondance de verdure, de paturages. Les village groupés autour de petits monts faits de blocs de grès, c'est superbe. Je n'ai pas vu les fameux combats avec des bracelets tranchants célèbrés par la photographe, mais j'ai connu là le choc culturel qui m'aura marqué dans tout le voyage: un jour le Bedford s'arrête, comme souvent, pour faire monter un passager. Et grimpe dans la benne du camion un grand gaillard tout mince, vêtu d'un court pagne, les cheveux teints en arrière au henné et armé d'un courte lance. Il fait mon age apparemment, et il est tout aussi surpris que nous. Si c'est le premier homme "primitif" que je rencontre (jusqu'à présent tous les soudanais croisés étaient vétus de djellabahs ou de longs pagnes), il est clair que nous sommes les premiers blancs qu'il voit! Nous sommes aussi fascinés l'un que l'autre. On tente une conversation... anglais, arabe... rien, il ne parle que son dialecte local. Je lui donne une cigarette, il me donne des feuilles (du khat?) à mâcher, mais c'est toute la communication que nous réussissons à établir. Deux heures après il descend du camion, et moi qui n'ai même pas pris une photo.
Malheureusement à cause du retard que nous avons pris, et vu la vitesse d'escargot à laquelle nous progressons, nous ne pouvons nous enfoncer plus dans les monts Nouba et nous abandonnons notre projet de descendre dans le Sud. Nous filons donc vers l'ouest vers Babanusa pour voir si on peut choper un train pour remonter vers El Obeid et Khartoum. Encore un échec; le train est bondé. Mais quand je dis bondé, c'est bondé à la soudanaise, c'est à dire que c'est archi plein dedans, archi plein sur les marches, et archi plein sur le toit (voir photo)! Inimaginable pour nous, nous on va rentrer à nouveau en camion. Le retour sera cool, à noter une invitation à un mariage à El Obeid, et nous revoila à Khartoum ou nous pouvons reprendre quelques forces.
En efet, j'ai du perdre 10kg (et il n'y en avait pas trop): à manger des fouls à tous les repas, plus une assiette de mouton tous les 4 ou 5 jours, on fond plus vite qu'avec un Ducan!
Voilà, c'est terminé, mais 32 ans près j'ai encore la nostalgie de ce pays et de ces habitants!
Merci pour ce récit. Je n'ai pas eu la chance de visiter ce pays comme toi, n'ayant parcouru que la Nubie et
disposant d'un temps limité pour ma découverte.
Les photos ci-jointes sont le reflet de la Nubie Soudanaise du début 2012. Ce pays de contraste entre la
piste des 40 jours et ses caravanes de chameaux, les musiciens de musique tradionnelle nubienne, cet homme
qui continue de confectionner ses sièges et qui s'offre une pause avec son téléphone portable dont il faut
avouer il avait un peu de mal à utiliser (il faut dire qu'il n' était pas tout neuf !), un lendi (genre de felouque)
qui vous permet de vous déplacer dans un silence impressionnant sur le Nil (très beau souvenir), les magnifiques
coucher et lever de soleil (soit sur les temples, le Nil, ou dans le désert), Kartoum et son célèbre marché
d'Omdurman où j'ai acheté des dattes plus ou moins sèches et tellement délicieuses. Il y a beaucoup d'autres
photos pour illustrer ce pays et sa population très attachante. Après le Yémen (mon pays de coeur) c'est cette
partie du Soudan qui dans ces dernières années de voyages m'a apportée beaucoup d'émotions.
Comme pour beaucoup d'autres pays et régions de ce monde il y a la vision internationnale (avec les régimes en
place) et la réalité sur le terrain : des populations très chaleureuses et hospitalières qui sont les premières
victimes de cette vision négative de leur pays.
Je comprends ta nostalgie, le pays a changé dans les grandes villes, le changement est plus lent dans les campagnes même si par contraste les nouvelles technologies sont accessibles dans des lieux improbables : mon chauffeur passait beaucoup de temps au téléphone, mon guide recevait ses mails, alors qu'il me semblait que j'étais au milieu de nulle part (vision occidentale).
Encore merci.
Gisèle,
il n'y a que dans notre beau pays que le téléphone ne fonctionne pas partout!!! Effectivement au soudan, le chauffeur était toujours au téléphone (il en avait même 2). il s'étonnait que nous ne téléphonions pas et voulait nous payer une carte!! Mais cela a été aussi vrai au fin fond de l'Ethiopie en 2012 et cet été au Ladakh dans des vallées encaissées de l'Himalaya.
bonne journée
East and Southern Africa › Soudan / Égypte · 12 replies
Je projette, quand ce sera possible à nouveau, de me rendre à Khartoum, et de là, descendre le long du Nil jusqu'à Louxor. J'ai quelques questions: Pour le…
Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
We're heading to South Africa for a month with 5 adults.
We'd like to rent a vehicle that can accommodate 5 people and all our luggage.
We're starting in Cape Town and ending in Johannesburg.
What vehicle would you recommend?
EDITH
Hi everyone!
I’m still planning my Cape Town to Johannesburg trip in January 2027.
I saw a documentary about the San people in Namibia, and the same day, I stumbled upon the Lonely Planet page about !Kwah Ttu.
I checked out their website to learn more, including Michel’s travel journal about it. I’m really keen to go.
So, I’m thinking of dedicating:
- either 1 day out of the 4.5 I have in Cape Town...
- or making a detour to !Kwah Ttu on the day I leave Cape Town for Montagu, instead of visiting Franschhoek and its Saturday market...
To the VFers who’ve already been: is it really worth spending a day there?
Thanks in advance for your feedback!
Malijp
Hi there,
I’m planning a gorilla trek in Bwindi, Uganda. I’m torn between the classic option (1 hour with the gorillas) and the habituation trek (4 hours with the gorillas but a more expensive permit). Has anyone done the habituation trek? Both? If so, I’d love to hear your feedback (including on the difficulty).
Thanks
I’ve read some travel journals here but I still have a question.
We’re heading to Uganda next February. The gorilla permits are booked, and the flight tickets are sorted too.
My question is about the chimpanzee trek. I’d love to know whether it’s better to book the habituation experience (4 hours) or the standard trek (1 hour).
The price difference isn’t huge, but I keep wondering and I’d hate to miss out on a great experience.
Thirty years ago, I traveled to Zanzibar (Tanzania) with my children. Since I’ve since started a new family, I took the opportunity of a trip to Kenya to bring my new family along: my wife, who’s Kenyan, and my 10-year-old daughter.
Zanzibar has really changed in 30 years.
It’s become the island of taxes.
It all starts upon arrival: I think it’s the only country in the world, besides the visa, where Zanzibar insurance (and no other) is mandatory—it costs 40 €. If you didn’t purchase it before arriving, good luck getting it: the IT systems are unreliable. With a bit of luck, it’ll take at least an hour to process! And of course, this insurance is useless—if you get sick, it’s recommended to use your home country’s insurance because if you use Zanzibar’s, your national insurance won’t cover you anymore.
I wanted to show my daughter the red colobus monkey, which is endemic to Zanzibar. I paid for a tour that was supposed to be all-inclusive. First, we visited a spice farm, where a farm guide took charge of us—meaning commissions were involved, of course! The tour was very good and informative, though. When we arrived at Jenzhi Park (the colobus park), the guide told us he "forgot" there was an entrance fee (50$).
Aware of the system, I decided to book an Ocean Blue tour through the Zanzibar Tourism Office. After two hours of driving, we stopped at a beach—and were left there. No boat was ready to take us. Since my wife speaks Swahili (the language in Zanzibar), after an hour, a captain with his own boat agreed to take us along with his family.
Another attempt. The main attraction in Zanzibar (besides the city) is Changuu, the Prison Island. You have to take a motorboat and pay the captain, which is normal.
But in Zanzibar, to even get on a boat, you first have to pay a tax! Once we arrived at the island, it started all over again! Thirty years ago, access was free, and the entire island (about 1 km²) was open. Today, there’s a small office, and you have to pay a hefty fee to enter. But enter where? A paved path leads to about 15% of the island—the rest is off-limits. In total, I paid 100 € for my wife, daughter, and myself just to visit a tiny portion of the island! Avoid this!
For the rest of our stay, we stayed at a 5-star hotel with golf, horseback riding, tennis courts, evening concerts, etc.—undeniably high-level comfort. One last thing: if you want to rent a car, it’s affordable and useful for exploring the island’s diverse landscapes, but there are speed cameras at every corner on the main roads. The fine is supposedly 100 $, and it’s hard not to get one!
I told you: Zanzibar, the land of taxes. I used to think my country, Belgium, was the tax champion—I’ve found something even better!
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
In Nov./Dec. 2022, I went on a safari in the region and we suffered from the extreme temperatures caused by the "El Niño" phenomenon in the Indian Ocean at that time. On top of the extreme heat, there can be torrential rains, flooding, etc., which have led to disasters with casualties.
We're now just 5 weeks away from our trip to South Africa 🙂 and *so* excited to explore (just a tiny bit of) this amazing country.
I need to buy some binoculars but have no idea which model to choose. I don’t really know what to look for (and I don’t want to spend too much).
Thanks in advance to anyone who can give me some tips!
We just got back from ten days in Tanzania. We were lucky enough to be guided by Gishaman. Always in a great mood, a good driver, and an excellent guide. Thanks to him, we not only saw the Big Five in one day but also loads of other animals. He works for the local agency Blit Safaris, which provided excellent support throughout our trip. Highly recommended!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
