Southeast Asia · Thailand
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Tongasoa31 7 months ago · FloAsie
Thailand and TDAC: How does it work?
Hello to all the Thailand regulars.

I’ve been to Thailand several times, but it was about 20 years ago…

There’s a new system in place now, it seems.

TDAC – Thailand Digital Arrival Card.

Before arriving, I apply for a TDAC, okay. If during my stay I cross the border to spend a few days in Malaysia and then re-enter Thailand, do I need to submit a new TDAC application? Do I use the same TDAC as when I first entered the country?

Or do I initially have to pay for a Thai multi-entry visa?

Thanks in advance for your insights—I can’t find the answer online.

Pierre
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Ass2lille 8 months ago · Juju123z
Steps to recognize a Franco-Thai child?
hi everyone, I’m French and live in France, and my Thai girlfriend just told me she’s pregnant—she lives in Thailand. First step, a paternity test to set my mind at ease. What steps do I need to take to recognize the child? Can I do it before the birth or only after? Where do I need to go, and what paperwork is required?

Just to clarify, I want him to stay in Thailand but be able to come to France anytime without any issues! Thanks for taking the time to read and reply.
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Marien33 9 months ago · Songsam
From Nan to Chiang Rai: itinerary ideas?
Hi, just a quick note mainly for Samsong, even if he’s still giving me the silent treatment. I’ve been in Nan since yesterday and... I love it! So thanks, Thierry. It’s exactly the kind of place I’d been dreaming of... Even if communication is a bit tough, it’s not impossible. They don’t even know the most basic English words! Everyone laughs and they’re the first to pull out their phones to... translate. They’re even quicker on the uptake than I am. And then there’s the time I say Nan (pronounced "Nane"). They don’t understand me. After a while (sometimes a long one), they reply: "Ah, Nan?" (pronounced "Nane") 😵🤳😃

The town is exactly how you described it back in 2022. Though I’m surprised to find so many trendy, slightly intellectual "Cafés." Apparently, coffee—excellent everywhere—is king in Nan. It feels like a university town. And it seems pretty lively at night! But for now, I’m going to bed early. I caught a nasty cold, which didn’t stop me from walking 12 km this morning. But I came back to my accommodation by 3 PM (gorgeous and luxurious with top-notch service for 800 baht—even a cute local welcome gift this morning, plus other unexpected touches like a bottle of honey and chrysanthemum flowers for tea. The lady must’ve guessed I was coming down with something yesterday). I thought about going out for dinner but didn’t have the energy. I think I’ve got at least 39°C fever...

Anyway, I’m sending you this message, Thierry, because you mentioned a daily bus to Chiang Rai, so I didn’t look into it. But now it’s a real problem—no buses to Chiang Rai, only taxis. At least 2,500 baht for the cheapest one! I’ll check the bus station directly tomorrow. Online, it’s all taxis, no buses. I’d like to explore the countryside/mountains if I can find an affordable driver. Any ideas for destinations or itineraries? Thanks.
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Morlaix 9 months ago · Sincenbrin
Where to see bioluminescent plankton in Krabi?
Hi there, I’ll be spending a week in Ao Nang, including two days in Railay. I can’t find the exact info on where I can see bioluminescent plankton from the beach. I think it’s in Railay, but where exactly can you observe the phenomenon?
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Torpan 9 months ago
Thailand via Kuala Lumpur
Here’s my account of our trip to Thailand with my partner from November 22 to December 5, 2025. First off, I’d like to wish all Voyageforum.com users a very happy 2026, full of happiness and amazing discoveries on your travels! It’s thanks to the tips I gathered on this site that I planned the trip. We traveled with Malaysia Airlines (the flight price was great, but no movies in French, not even subtitled) because we wanted to explore Kuala Lumpur and visit southern Thailand. Our departure from Roissy was delayed because the plane had to go through the robotic de-icing trucks—pretty impressive! After a 12-hour flight, we arrived at the beautiful Kuala Lumpur airport around 7 AM.



Don’t forget to fill out the immigration form requested by Malaysia 3 days before arrival. We left without any issues and took the Klia Ekspress train to KL Sentral station (30 minutes, 10 €). We’d booked accommodation in a tower near the station and had to communicate with the landlord to get the keys. But while we thought there’d be Wi-Fi at the station, there wasn’t—we asked the tourism office, and they said there wasn’t any. We didn’t want to buy a local SIM card since we were leaving the next day. Eventually, we went to a Starbucks to get online, but just as we decided to head to our place, a torrential downpour hit, and we couldn’t find a sidewalk to reach our destination. We went back to the station, took the elevated metro, and finally made it to our landlord and the room on the 45th floor.

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SirkaOlly 9 months ago · Tatra
Missing maiden name on Turkish Airlines flight ticket
Hi, I booked flight tickets with Turkish Airlines 15 days ago for a round-trip for 4 people to Thailand in August 2026. On my reservation, I only included my married name, but on my passport, my maiden name appears along with my married name. I only noted one first name—I didn’t include my second or third first name. For my husband and children, I only included their first first name. I called Turkish Airlines a few days ago as a precaution, and they were very helpful, guiding me through the process of adding a comment to request the modification with scanned passports. They confirmed it would be free of charge. Today, I received a response from TK saying I need to buy new tickets with the required changes and then provide them with the new reservation details to be reimbursed for the initially purchased tickets. I called Turkish Airlines again, and they advised me to file a complaint using the initial comment I made. I did that tonight, explaining that I made these requests as a precaution—I fly every year and have never included my maiden name or other first names on my reservations, and it’s never been an issue. Plus, I can’t afford to pay for new tickets since prices have skyrocketed (+1000 € for 4 people). I’m really worried and anxious about this situation. We’ve been saving for a while to afford this trip, and I hope it gets resolved favorably. Have any of you experienced similar issues or situations like this? If so, how did it go at the airport? Thanks in advance for your help
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Touny75 9 months ago
Thailand itinerary advice for island visits
Hello, We’re heading to Thailand for 26 days (excluding flights) next July with our two teens (12 and 15 years old). My husband and I have been there several times before they were born—so that’s 15 years ago—and I’m a bit worried about some of the changes that might have happened since, especially with the rise in tourism... I’d also like to keep a pace that allows us to settle in a bit and enjoy local life beyond just the main sights. Plus, we’re pretty active. For now, our plan looks like this:

Arrival in Bangkok, where we’re thinking of spending several days (minimum 4) Chiang Mai for about a week 2 or 3 islands in the Gulf Return to Bangkok for 2 days before departure.

We’re pretty set on Bangkok and Chiang Mai, but we’re unsure about which islands to visit—I’ve read such mixed things that I’m even wondering if we should consider the coast instead. Organization-wise, I’d love any tips or feedback on whether we need to book in advance at this time of year, which transport options to prioritize (train, bus, or plane), and of course, any suggestions for stops or routes. Thanks in advance to anyone kind enough to help us prepare for this amazing trip!
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Zorro4533 9 months ago
Feedback on Thailand discovery itinerary
Hi everyone,

My partner and I are heading to Thailand for three weeks (exactly 21 days there) at the beginning of July for our first trip to Asia. During this trip, we want to discover a new culture, beautiful landscapes, eat well, do some beach time (with snorkeling), all while trying to keep it authentic and close to nature.

After some research, I’ve come up with this itinerary—what do you think?

Arrival in Bangkok on Tuesday, July 7 in the morning = 2 days Ayutthaya = 1 day Travel to Chiang Mai = 1 day (flight) Chiang Mai = 2 days Trek = 2 days Travel to Khao Sok = 1 day (flight to Surat Thani + bus) Khao Sok = 3 days (4 nights total) = For this part of the trip, would you recommend staying in Khao Sok village and doing day trips, or planning an overnight stay on the lake? Travel to Koh Phangan = 1 day (bus + ferry) Koh Phangan = 4 days (we’re thinking of staying in the northeast part of the island) Koh Tao = 2 days Return to Bangkok = 1 day (taking a ferry to Chumphon then a flight) Bangkok = 1 day

Thanks for your feedback!
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Kate 9 months ago
Looking for a beach spot near Bangkok
Hi there,

I’m looking for a beach spot within 3 hours max of Bangkok for the end of my trip (January). I know full well I won’t find that postcard-perfect vibe of the more remote islands! But I don’t have a choice. If you’ve got any ideas... no high-rises, obviously not Pattaya, somewhere quiet, swimming possible, a hotel right on the beach (and not too dirty, the beach itself!) I’ve looked at hotels around Ko Samet or, across from it, on the mainland. I spotted the Bann Pae Cabana. But nothing really exciting on either side. New ideas welcome! 🙂
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Marien33 9 months ago · Songsam
Thailand, Cambodia, or Vietnam?
I really loved Thailand, but it was too touristy for my taste. So I'm hesitating about going back and wondering if Cambodia or Vietnam would be less crowded with tourists...
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Charli120 9 months ago · Mathews
Khao Yai: Fatal fall for 6 wild elephants
Rescue operation saves two other elephants in danger after attempting to save a calf at Haew Narok

Six wild elephants died after falling into the Haew Narok waterfall in Khao Yai National Park early Saturday morning. A team of park rangers who were herding elephants back into the forest from Route 3077 in Prachin Buri heard loud elephant calls coming from Samor Poon creek, near the waterfall, around 3 a.m. Saturday. By 6 a.m., they went to check and found a calf, about 3 years old, that had drowned in the first tier of the waterfall. Two elephants were spotted trying to help it. They looked exhausted. Officials descended into the area below the waterfall and found five other drowned elephants, said Khanchit Srinoppawan, the national park chief. The waterfall was closed to the public following the incident. Mr. Khanchit said more park officials and rescuers were deployed, and ropes were used to help the two other struggling elephants at the waterfall. They were rescued at 2:30 p.m. Saturday, announced the Khao Yai Gaur nature protection group on its Facebook page. (...)

Haew Narok is the largest and one of the most beautiful waterfalls in Khao Yai National Park. Before the construction of the Prachin Buri-Khao Yai road, visitors had to walk at least six hours to reach the site.

www.bangkokpost.com/...t-khao-yai-waterfall
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YuliyaS 9 months ago · Kate
Final preparations for Thailand trip
Hi everyone,

We're leaving in less than a month, and I'm making a list of last-minute purchases. Could you please review/complete my list? We're traveling with no luggage, just one backpack per person. Here’s what I have on my list: - coral-safe sunscreen 100 ml – I started a separate thread on this topic, so if anyone can answer, thanks in advance ; - long-sleeve UV-protective t-shirts (for boat tours); - compression socks; - lightweight pants for visiting the Royal Palace (the schedule is tight, and I don’t want to waste too much time shopping at the start of the trip, unless we can find them at 7-Eleven); - waterproof pouches for phones and passports; - what else?

Thanks in advance for your tips!
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Ticapi 9 months ago
Your recommendations for 20 days in Thailand
Hello,

Our flights are booked, and we’ll arrive in Thailand at the beginning of January.

Originally, we were supposed to spend 14 days there. But after booking the flights and seeing the prices, we’ll now be there for 20 days instead.

Our initial plan was: 2 days in Bangkok 1 day in Ayutthaya 4 days in Chiang Mai 6 days around Krabi

So we have 7 more days to fill. What do you recommend?

An extra day in Bangkok? Adding more days in the north? If so, where? Exploring another region, like Kanchanaburi or Cheow Lan Lake? Traveling north in stages instead of taking the overnight train?

A few extra details about us: For us, vacation isn’t about relaxation—we love walking, exploring, and packed days don’t bother us. Hiking for hours and doing active things is what makes us happy. That said, we also enjoy visiting villages and towns if they’re worth the detour. In Thailand, we’d like to visit temples too. We’re early risers, so our days tend to be long. 🙂 In short, we like to keep things moving during our trips. 😉

Unfortunately, seeing terraced rice fields isn’t possible in January. I read there are rice fields around Sukhothai. Are they green in January?

In the north, do you recommend Doi Inthanon, Huai Nam Dang, or Doi Chiang Dao National Parks? Which one is the most beautiful and best for January?
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LyamR 10 months ago · Gaura
Sun Protection
Hi everyone, next month my wife, our 6-year-old daughter, and I are flying to Thailand. It’ll be a great chance to soak up some sun—something we’ve been missing lately here in France! But speaking of sun, I burn easily, and our daughter even more so. I was wondering what SPF to get for sunscreen and whether it’s better to buy it there or before we leave? Thanks for your tips!
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Jaunesoleil 10 months ago
Excursions to Phang Nga Bay
Hi Forum,

We’re planning a trip to Thailand for January 2027 and I’ve got some questions about visiting Phang Nga Bay:*

-I’ve read on this forum that it’s better to leave from the town of Phang Nga rather than Phuket, which makes sense, but I can’t spot any piers on Google Earth. Could someone tell me where they are? -Do hotels offer excursions that include transfers to the boat?

Thanks in advance for your replies. JauneSoleil
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Micmat2512 10 months ago · Dennis2
Passport validity for entering Thailand
Hi everyone, is there anyone sure about this topic? I’ve heard two different things. I’m leaving for Thailand on March 2nd and returning to France on March 30th, and my passport expires on September 25th. When I look at the rule that says the passport must be valid for more than 6 months upon entry, I’m good until March 25th, but on the way out, I’ll be 2 days short of the full 6 months (5 days early, to be precise).

Most people tell me it’s okay because it’s the entry date that counts, and even ChatGPT confirmed that for me. But some say no, it’s the return date that matters. So I called Qatar Airways, and even there, I got two different answers—one person said no, it’s the return date, and another said it’s fine for them. I’m not sure they fully understood what I was asking, and since I’m not in Paris, I can’t go in person either...

Just to be safe, I applied for a passport renewal at the town hall. They told me it would take 4 to 6 weeks, and I applied on January 14th, leaving on March 2nd, which is 6 and a half weeks. On the ANTS tracking, it’s been marked as "in production" since January 17th...

So, are there any experts on this topic out there? Either about whether boarding is allowed with the old passport or about the usual timeline for receiving a new passport... Am I wrong to worry in either case?

Thanks to those who reply!
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Sevellina 10 months ago · Jojoone1
French-speaking guides in Bangkok
Hi there,

I’d like to arrange a custom tour with a French-speaking guide, and I came across the "Destination Bangkok" website. Has anyone here used their services before? What did you think?

Thanks!!
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Huisclos 10 months ago · LeaChar
Thai SIM card settings on a French phone
Hi there! I’m heading to Thailand for two months. So I thought I’d get a Thai SIM card to use Google Maps for getting around cities, mostly. Here’s my question: will this SIM affect my apps? Or will they work the same as with my Orange SIM? Is there any setup I need to do, or can I just pop in the Thai SIM? I’d also like to switch back to my Orange SIM now and then while I’m in Thailand—on the same phone. Will I need to reset the phone, or will it reconnect without any issues? Thanks in advance for your tips! Best, Huiclos
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VallM17 10 months ago · Jojoone1
Your recommendations for a 2-week trip to Thailand
Hi there,

We have the opportunity to get away for a little two-week trip at the very beginning of January, just the two of us, without our kids. Because of the kids, we haven’t traveled much in Asia, so we’d love to take advantage of their absence to explore Thailand. Even though I’m used to planning our trips, I’m feeling a bit overwhelmed this time.

We’d like to visit Bangkok and head south by renting a car (we have an international driver’s license, and my husband has driven on the left before). I’ve managed to sketch out a rough itinerary that might work for us, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.

To set the scene: we haven’t booked anything yet, we don’t like spending hours on the beach (though a little time at the end of the day is fine), we love walking and sightseeing, and what we enjoy most is being independent (so if we can avoid group tours, that’s ideal).

After that intro, here’s the rough outline of our itinerary: Day 0: Paris-Bangkok flight Days 1, 2, and 3: Bangkok (Wat Pho, Grand Palace, Wat Arun, markets, boat ride through the khlongs, Jim Thompson House) Day 4: Ayutthaya Day 5: Pick up a rental car and head to Sam Roi Yot Day 6: Sam Roi Yot and Prachuap Khiri Khan Day 7: Drive south – overnight near Surat Thani Day 8: Uthayan Tham Khao Na Nai, then drive to Ao Nang (staying near Tubkaek) Days 9 and 10: Boat trips (Railay, Ko Hong, etc.) Day 11: Drive to Phang Nga with a few stops along the way Day 12: Boat tour (mangroves and Ko Tapu) Day 13: Drive to Phuket Airport and return flight

A few questions and doubts: - I’d considered Cheow Lan Lake but read some not-so-great reviews (crowds, just 3 viewpoints, and the rest was meh). What do you think? - Can we start from Ao Thalane Pier for trips to Ko Hong and Ko Tapu? - I’m not thrilled about driving through Bangkok, but I’m not sure where to rent a car west of the city (since we won’t return it to the same place, I assume it’s best to target rental companies at airports).

Thanks in advance for any tips or feedback you can share to help me (or not 😛) refine this plan before I start booking!
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Julien1932 10 months ago
Feedback on family trip to Thailand
Hi everyone... I apologize in advance if some of my questions have already been answered on this forum—I didn’t have time to read through everything.

I’m planning a family trip to Thailand in July for 6 people: - 4 adults, 1 child aged 14, and 1 aged 9. We’ve started looking into travel agencies that specialize in the country and offer custom trips.

Our initial idea was a budget of 2500 € per person for a stay of around 14 days, including:

- 3/4 days in Bangkok (visiting temples, floating markets, Chinatown, river cruise, etc.) - Kanchanaburi - Ayutthaya - 3/4 days in Chiang Mai (elephant sanctuary, rice field visits, temples, etc.) - Then a domestic flight to finish the trip in Krabi for 3/4 days (free time + excursions to Koh Phi Phi and/or Phang Nga, for example).

I’d also have liked to visit Chiang Rai, Lopburi, and Sukhothai, but we’ll have to make some choices.

So, my question is: - Is it better to go through well-known agencies to plan our trip, or is it possible to use local agencies for visits with French-speaking guides (if needed) and book flights and hotels on our own?

Does a budget of 2500 € per person seem reasonable for this kind of classic itinerary?

I’ve received (or will receive) quotes from agencies like Evaneos, Tourlane, Havas, Sawa Discovery, Nomade Aventures, etc. They all seem very professional but offer rather high-end services.

If any of you have recommendations for local agencies, I’d love to hear about your experiences. Also, is it possible to organize this kind of trip to Thailand on your own?

I know I’m not being very original, but I really want to make this a fantastic vacation with the best tips possible to avoid cutting the trip short to fit my budget.

Wishing you all a great day, and thanks in advance for your replies! Best regards, Julien
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Micmat2512 10 months ago · Aroythai
Passport validity for entry into Thailand
Hi everyone, could someone clarify a doubt for me? Here's the thing: my passport expires on 25/09, and I want to go to Thailand from 03/3 to 30/3. So, on the day of departure, it will be 6 months and 22 days before the passport's expiry date.

...So, for entry into Thailand, will there be a problem? Apparently not, but I'm not sure. And for the return, since it will exceed the expiry date by 5 days, should I be careful with the layover outside Europe due to the 6-month passport validity rule? For safety, should I choose a European layover to avoid the 6-month passport issue?

I understood that what matters is that on the date of entry into Thailand, the passport must be valid for more than 6 months, and it will be exactly 6 months and 23 days.

However, for the return to France, I leave on 30/03, which is 5 months and 25 days (just 5 days short).

I heard that they don’t check it, and if I have a layover in Doha, for example, where the 6-month rule applies, as long as I stay in the transit area and don’t go through immigration, there shouldn’t be a problem either.

But I’m not sure about anything—even ChatGPT tells me there’s no issue...

Is there an expert on this topic on this forum? Thanks in advance!
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Douwape 10 months ago · Enavent
Feedback on a less touristy Thailand itinerary in February?
Hi everyone, We’re heading to Thailand from February 3rd to 24th, as a couple (37 years old). We love local cuisine, street food, small restaurants, and quiet bars for a drink in the evening. We’re also big fans of turquoise waters and white sand beaches. Our planned itinerary looks like this:

Chiang Mai: 4 or 5 days to rediscover the city, temples, and markets. We already visited the Chiang Mai and Chiang Rai provinces a few years ago and loved it, so we’re heading back for a few days there :)

Bangkok: 3 days, with a day trip to Ayutthaya.

Then heading down to Trat province to enjoy the islands of Koh Chang, Koh Mak, and Koh Kood.

We’ve read that the southern islands (Koh Samui, Koh Tao, Koh Phi Phi, Koh Phangan, Koh Lipe, etc.) are often packed this time of year, so we’re looking for quieter islands but with some accommodations and restaurants/bars. For reference, we really enjoyed Koh Rong Samloem, Koh Rong, Phu Quoc, and the Philippine islands. 👍 Does this itinerary fit well with what we’re looking for? Or do you have other suggestions for routes or islands to prioritize during this period? Thanks in advance for your tips!
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Saramaca 10 months ago · Enavent
Too much info: which quiet island to choose in Thailand for beach time and snorkeling?
Hi there, We're heading to Thailand with our two kids (9 years old) for two weeks next February (2026). We plan to rent a car to stay independent and explore a bit off the beaten path. Still, we'd like to spend 1 or 2 nights on a nice, quiet island—just for some relaxation and especially snorkeling (even though I know it's not the best country for beautiful corals).

I've read dozens of forum pages and travel journals, but I'm still overwhelmed and can't decide where to go for a peaceful paradise-like beach with good snorkeling opportunities. We don’t need comfort—Robinson Crusoe-style camping or hammock nights work perfectly for us. No electricity or signal is totally fine. We just don’t want to pay 1000 € for a family of four to go to the Surin Islands, even if they do look like paradise.

Any suggestions?
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Lacambuse31 10 months ago · Enavent
Safety in Chanthaburi - Trat and Ko Kood
Hi, Does anyone know if it's still advised against traveling to Chanthaburi, Trat, Ko Chang, and Ko Kood? On thailande.gouv, they recommend staying more than 10 km away from the borders with Cambodia. I don’t know if that’s a good idea. But on TripAdvisor, it seems to be discouraged.
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Falsealarm 10 months ago · Kate
Which neighborhood to choose for staying in Bangkok?
Hi, I’m heading to Thailand for the first time in early 2026 and I’m really struggling to pick a neighborhood to stay in Bangkok. Apart from being close to public transport (metro, skytrain, BRT), I’m torn between several areas. I don’t mind using public transport or walking long distances, but if every trip takes 45 minutes or an hour, it’ll quickly become a hassle given our relatively short time there.

We’ll be in Bangkok twice during our trip: first for a “short” 2-night stopover (arriving from France in the mid-afternoon, then leaving the day after next for southern Thailand by plane), and then again for 3 nights before flying back to France (arriving at the airport in the late afternoon, 3 nights there, then departing for France in the late morning).

I’ve seen so many different recommendations that I’m having a hard time deciding. I’ve read that staying near the river is great for sightseeing, and that taking the boat to get around is really pleasant. But I’m worried about being a bit isolated for evening outings (eating at a cheap little restaurant, having a drink—nothing too wild!).

Chinatown is tempting for the food—it looks amazing—and it doesn’t seem too far from the main sights with public transport. But I’ve read that it’s very noisy because it’s super touristy and there’s constant truck traffic. My friend isn’t thrilled about it, especially since another neighborhood interests her because she has a great discount at a hotel near Victory Monument/Phaya Thai (the Pullman hotel). Even though it’s close to public transport, I’ve seen that it’s mostly a shopping district? And even with transport, isn’t it a long trip to visit places like the Grand Palace?

We also had a plan to stay at an ibis near BTS Nana station in the Sukhumvit area, but again, I get the feeling it’s mostly a shopping district?

Anyway, I’d love to hear your thoughts because I’m really torn!

It’s also true that I haven’t really planned our Bangkok stays yet. I’d like to do the “classic” tourist sights like the Grand Palace and eat really well! Someone told me that the big shopping malls also have amazing food 🙂

Thanks for your input!
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Tatanelo 10 months ago · Breizhwoman
First family trip to Thailand
Hi there,

We’re planning a trip to Thailand with my husband and our two 7-year-old kids. Three weeks in February/March. Our rough itinerary is: arriving in Bangkok for 3-4 days, then Chiang Mai and the surrounding area, and finally an island in the south.

-We land in Bangkok around 7 AM. Any hotel recommendations? We’d love to rest right after we arrive. Budget is around 40 € per night.

For the rest, I’m open to any tips or suggestions:

-Accommodation in Chiang Mai, and maybe a night in an elephant sanctuary park...

-Should we take the overnight train to Chiang Mai on the way there or on the way back?

-Which island should we choose?

We love authentic experiences and connecting with locals...

Thanks so much!!!

Elodie.
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Songsam 10 months ago
Hitchhiking in Thailand
Is hitchhiking in Thailand a good idea? A bad one? Safe or not?

Instead of sharing my thoughts on the subject, I’ll tell you about my four short hitchhiking "adventures" over 40 years of traveling there. Hopefully, this will help you form your own opinion.

First, a general rule I always follow in Southeast Asia: whether you're a woman or a man, in the city or the countryside, if you're a foreigner—even in a small group—never let yourself get completely isolated once night falls.

Okay, here we go.

My first time:

This happened in the late 80s in Kanchanaburi province, on route 3272/4088, somewhere between the charming Thong Pha Phum and that spot on the Burmese border where a gas pipeline—owned at the time by a major French company—crosses. I don’t remember why or how I ended up on that remote road, but since I love getting lost, it was fine. Except that it was already mid-afternoon, no songthaew had shown up after an hour of waiting, and I wanted to get back to T.P. Phum before dark. So I started walking, keeping an ear out for any approaching engine to flag down (hand flat, palm down, waving as if saying goodbye). Soon after, a slightly upscale car stopped—a high-end Japanese model. Inside was a couple in their thirties. "You guys headin’ to Thong Pha Phum?" "Sure, no problem, my good farang, hop in." I was saved. We drove for 20-30 kilometers, then the guy pulled over: "Come on, let’s grab a drink..." Later, I’d learn we were near the spot where they were spending a short vacation, south of the reservoir stretching from T.P.P. to Sangkhlaburi—a place (that part of the lake) known for its waterfront resorts for couples, families (next stop...), and other Thais out for a good time (I’d stay there myself a weekend a few years later, in a dorm room with about thirty Thai friends). We had a drink. The woman barely sipped hers. We had a second. She didn’t say anything, but I could read in her eyes what she was thinking (no language barrier for that kind of communication). Then he ordered a third. She shot her husband a disapproving, embarrassed look. As for me, aware I was still far from "home" and that night was falling, I started pretending to drink too. You can guess the rest: the guy kept ordering, got drunker and drunker, and his wife didn’t dare scold him in front of me, but the looks she gave him—and her discomfort around the other people in the roadside joint—spoke volumes.

After a (very) long while, the woman couldn’t take it anymore and finally reminded him, I assume, that they still had to take me to T.P.P. But given his state, it was unanimously decided—by both of us—that there was no way he was driving. I felt stuck, especially since I don’t drive. And her? Oh, she could. I helped the guy as best I could, and the joint’s owner, taking pity on me, lent a hand. We got him into the back seat, where he fell asleep almost immediately. It was around 8 PM when, with her husband still snoring in the back, she dropped me off at the entrance of the guesthouse in Thong Pha Phum, near the market square. I thanked her, feeling a pang of sympathy for the moment she’d have to haul her husband from the car to their room. They drove off. I was hungry. At the far end of the market square was a great restaurant with a direct view of the Mae Nam Khwae. I headed that way.
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