Traverser l'Amazonie par les fleuves...
by Naps
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
bon voila, je vais donc traverser tout ca jusqu a la cote atlantique.
en fait ce qui m interesse ce st d aller dans des petits villages le long des affluents et de la marcher vers d autres villages plus recules.
j ai du temps, mais pas trop d argent bien sur!!!😎
donc je voudais savoir:deja d ou ce st mieux de demarrer:
de tabatinga depuis iquitos?
ou alors plus au sud genre a rio branco et de la remonter le rio jurua jusqu a fonte boa?
ou sinon de boca de acre remonter le rio purus jusqu a manaus?et aussi bien sur vers ou il y a des bleds interesants.connaisez vous la terra indigena javani pres de la frontiere du perou?et la terra indigena yanomami pas tres loin de boa vista?et la reserva extrativista chico mendes pres des frontieres avec le perou et la bolivie?
je precise que je compte bien tout faire par moi meme et ne pas joindre un quelconque tour via une agence.
je suis preneur de toute info et vous en remercie d avance...
je sais bien koudou, mais je connais la jungle de borneo, indonesie et papouasie et j ai mon hamac mousticaire donc ca va, et je prendrai des guides bien sur, mais des guides locaux, sans passer par une agence.
c est pas complique:
tu deboules dans un petit bled, te renseignes sur les bleds alentours puis prends un local pour t y emmener.
questions subsidiaires:remonter le rio japura depuis tefe, ca vaut le coup?ou descendre un rio dont je n ai pas le nom depuis tefe aussi?quelqu un est il deja alle a mamiraua?ce st faisable en independant sans payer 300 dollars pour 3 jours?meme question pour amana pas loin?
je tiens a preciser qu au niveau des bleds je ne demande rien de tres precis car je sais que ce genre de trucs ne se mettent pas sur un forum, mais je voudrais juste avoir quelques directions genre:
tu pars de tel bled, remontes ou descends telle riviere et vois ce que tu peux faire...
merci d avance!!!!
salut Naps!
Je ne peux vraiment te répondre car je ne connait que les grands fleuves du Pérou soit le Rio Maranon et Ucayali... Mais si tu voyages sur les gros bateaux de l'amazonie au Brésil et au fil de tes rencontres avec les gens à bord, je ne vois pas pourquoi ce passage vers l'Atlantique serait impossible...
Avec ben du temps, du débarque à gauche et à droite pour tes balades dans la jungle... et tu remontes à bord d'un autre bateau pour un petit bout...
A+
Altaus
Je ne peux vraiment te répondre car je ne connait que les grands fleuves du Pérou soit le Rio Maranon et Ucayali... Mais si tu voyages sur les gros bateaux de l'amazonie au Brésil et au fil de tes rencontres avec les gens à bord, je ne vois pas pourquoi ce passage vers l'Atlantique serait impossible...
Avec ben du temps, du débarque à gauche et à droite pour tes balades dans la jungle... et tu remontes à bord d'un autre bateau pour un petit bout...
A+
Altaus
Altaüs
Chaque expédition en prépare une plus grande!
Chaque expédition en prépare une plus grande!
oui, je sais bien que ce st possible et que els locaux sont une bonne source d infos, mais ce que je voulais c est juste avoir quelques directions pour preparer mon itineraire parce que l amazonie ce st grand.
par contre je crois que je vais apsser par le perou depuis lima, donc si tu as des infos sur ce genre de trucs(belle foret, villages indiens typiques et pas mercantiles, guides locaux aps cher, abscence de tours organises etc...)sur le maranon(ce st celui qu on prend depuis yurimaguas, non?)et le ucayali je suis preneur, merci...
Salut,
Pour ce que je connais le mieux, c est a dire le Perou :
Il faut savoir qu en dehors des routes principales et pour rentrer dans des coins recules et des reserves, il faut bien souvent l autorisation des natifs. Car, sans autorisation, pas d entrer. Disons qu il s agit plutot de faire connaitre ses intentions.
Tu parlais du Yavari (frontiere Perou-Bresil), tu peux le descendre mais il faut savoir que si tu t enfonces, tu rentres chez les Korubos et se sont pas des rigolos. De la tri frontiere, tu peux aussi t enfoncer sur le Putumayo. Mais, fais attention quand meme, c est une grosse zone narco.
Sinon, accessible et plus pacifiques, tu as les Ashaninka, sur les derniers contreforts de la cordillere de Vilcabamba. Tu peux y acceder par Satipo entre autres. Il y a plusieurs points d entree. Possibilite de rallier plusieurs villages en s enfoncant dans des paysages incroyables (gorges + montagnes + foret).
Tu peux aussi faire un tour sur les rives du Pachitea chez les Shipibos Conibos. Ces communautes sont beaucoup mieux preservees que celles de l Ucayali. Tu peux rentrer par Pucallpa.
Tu as les Huambisas et les Aguarunas (jivaros). Tu peux rentrer par Santa Maria de Nieva. Plutot aller sur le Santiago que le Cenepa. Les Aguarunas (Cenepa + Marañon) ne sont pas toujours tres commodes.
Une fois sur le Santiago (Aguarunas + Huambisas), tu peux traverser la cordillere de Campanquiz pour atteindre les communautes jivaros (Huambisas/Achuars) reculees du Morona. Compter 4 jours de marche.
Il y a de nombreux chemins en foret. Du Morona, tu peux t enfoncer plus loin encore. Les narcos sont presents dans ce coin.
Il y a beaucoup d autres plans mais, le probleme, c est que sans argent, tu ne pourras jamais aller bien loin car il faut payer l essence de la pirogue ou du peque-peque et/ou le guide et/ou la nourriture. Et, au final, ca revient assez cher. Si tu as vraiment du temps tu peux prendre juste des peque peque (si tu veux sortir des grands axes, il faudra que tu les loues dans tous les cas + donner le diario du motoriste + l essence), ca rame (sans jeu de mot) mais ca consomme peu. En peque, tu voyages a l allure du fleuve.
Il y a beaucoup d autres plans mais, le probleme, c est que sans argent, tu ne pourras jamais aller bien loin car il faut payer l essence de la pirogue ou du peque-peque et/ou le guide et/ou la nourriture. Et, au final, ca revient assez cher. Si tu as vraiment du temps tu peux prendre juste des peque peque (si tu veux sortir des grands axes, il faudra que tu les loues dans tous les cas + donner le diario du motoriste + l essence), ca rame (sans jeu de mot) mais ca consomme peu. En peque, tu voyages a l allure du fleuve.
Es un hombre que se va, la lagrima se queda.
Je n'ai rien à ajouter... Zitoune est le grand connaisseur du Pérou hors piste...
A+
Altaus
A+
Altaus
Altaüs
Chaque expédition en prépare une plus grande!
Chaque expédition en prépare une plus grande!
Hallo Naps,
J'ai fais déjà beaucoup d'expéditions dans la forêt Amazonniene.
Regarde mon site: www.bloggen.be/erico
Je sais que c'est en néerlandais mais les (20) photos montrent assez.
D'abord j'ai vécu au Brésil et je parle très bien la langue portugaise brésilienne.
Ensuite j'ai cherché plusieurs années avant de trouver de bon guides qui m'accompagnent.
Ma question est: quand est-ce que tu veux faire ce tour?
Je peux te donner des adresses et des noms des gents qui peuvent t'aider.
Salutations
Ericos
merci beaucoup zitoune, ca c est de l info!!!
en fait j en ai des sous, mais quand je dis que je n en ai pas je veux dire que je n aime pas les jeter par les fenetres et que je ne prends pas des tours aux prix surgonfles.
bon maintennat faut que je trouve une carte correcte de l amazonie peruvienne et bresilienne.
je vais commencer par le perou et vais aller voir certains des trucs que tu m as dit.
tu crois que ca craint vraiment les korubos au yavari?
parce que ca a l air prometteur.
ericos:
je vais commencer par l amazonie peruvienne dans disons 2 semaines, et ensuite je passerai au bresil.
bien sur toutes infos de ta part seront les bienvenues.
mais comme j ai deja dit je suis radin.
je prendrai des bateaux locaux tant qu il y en aura, et ensuite paierait un prix raisonnable a un gars qui a un bateau et au final un autre prix raisonnable a celui qui me guidera.
mais les tours a 1000 rais c est nao!!!!
je comprends pas encore bien le porto quand ils parlent vite mais eux me comprennent, et d ici a ce que j y arrive je le parlerai, c est rien du tout d apprendre ce genre de langue.
j ai jete un oeil a ton site, j ai vu que tu y parles du pantanal.
ca t a plu?
j en reviens a peine...
je comprends un peu le neerlandais et je vais detailler tout ca dans les jours qui viennent.
ce qui m emmerde un peu ce st que je vais etre comme d habitude tout seul, ca me donne moins d elan.
quelqu un veut venir?
zitoune?
@Naps,
Pour le moment tu as trois problèmes.
1) Tu es seule pour faire cette expédition. Tu ne peux pas partager les frais. Donc...
Les expéditions que je fais ne sont pas du tout chères. Environ 20 Euro par jour par personne, tout inclus. Nombre maximale: 5 personnes.
Bien sur qu'il y a des frais fixes (essence, moteurs, guides etc..) et si tu devrais payer tout toi mème; alors ça va couter plus.
Si je suis seule pour faire un tour, je fais le suivant: j'accompagne mon ami-guide en pechant (il est pecheur professionel) et moi je ne pai que l'essence et la glace. Pas plus. Comme ça, ça me coute environ 20 euro par jours. Bien sur qu'il vend les poissons pour lui.
2) Tu ne parles pas bien le portugais. Je ne connais pas les Perouens mais je connais bien les Brésiliens et je crois que ça va être très dificile d'expliquer ce que tu veux etcetera. Attention aussi: moi je connais mon guide. C'est mon ami déjà des années mais je n'accompagnerais jamais un type dans cette région qui je ne connais bien. JAMAIS.
3) Le période de l'année. C'est maintenant la saison humide. Il pleut beaucoup et fort dans la forêt Amazonniene. En plus, le niveau d'eau est haut maintenant et on ne voit rien des animaux ni de oiseaux. Pour ça je fais mes expéditions toujours en juin/octobre.
En parlant du Pantanal, ça c'est autre chose!!
Là bas, tu n'auras pas ces problèmes.
Il pleut là bas aussi, mais le niveau d'eau dans le Pantanal du Sud, ça dure des mois avant que ça arrive au point maximal. Il y a toujours des animaux et oiseaux.
Voilà mon avis.
Salut
Ericos
merci ericos.
et oui, je sais, je suis seul.
bon, je vais peut etre trouver des gens pour m accompagner, va savoir...
le porto t en fais pas, d ici a ce que j arrive la bas je le parlerai, ce n est jamais qu une langue latine de plus.
la pluie oui, en effet, mais tant pis, si vraiment ca pleut trop ben je ferai juste une reconnaissance et reviendrai un autre jour.
de toute facon les animaux et les oiseaux on n en voit jamais beaucoup dans les forets et puis je suis alle en afrique et rien ne peut battre un safari la bas.
ce qui m interesse ce sont les villages et les indiens...
bon et sinon tes expeditions c est vers ou?
desole, mais je n ai pas encore eu le temps d aller detailler ton site internet, la je suis e train d eremonter assez rapidemment sur le perou...
Mais expéditions sont des descentes des afluents de Rio Madeira. Ce sont les rivières les plus spectaculaires de l'Amazone. Beaucoup de chutes et beaucoup d'animaux et oiseaux. Aussi pas mal d'indiens. On les visite mais on ne reste jamais longtemps chez eux. Ils en veulent de trop. Si tu ne donne pas, ils commencent à être méchants.
En tout cas; bon voyage
ok merci, je vais voir ca.
deja je vais commencer par le erou vu que l amazonie ne st pas accessible depuis le sud du bresil a cause des pluies.
je vais aller voir 2-3 coins conseilles par zitoune, puis le rio javari, puis la region de boa vista et tere.
je te tiens au courrant pour le madeira...
zitoune, j ai localise les coins dont tu m as parle sur une carte et je pense partir de lima a la merced, puis sipito, puis l ucayali, puis le yavari puis je verrai si j irai au bresil ou si je ferai une boucle avec retour sur lima par le maranon.
parce qu en fait je commence a me demander si finalement ca vaut le coup d aller du cote bresilien.
il ne semble pas qu il y ait plus a voir que du cote peruvien et en plus ca va couter une fortune car d une part les distances sont beaucoup plus grandes et d autre part le bresil est 2, voir 3 fois plus cher que le perou.
sans parler du fait que beaucoup d endroits du cote bresilien ne sont pas accessibles en independant ce qui implique passer par une agence ce que je me refuse a faire, que d autres necessitent des permis des fois quasi impossibles a avoir et que d autres encore ne sont pas desservis par des bateaux locaux donc c est louer une pirogue et trouer le porte monnaie.
la traversee de l amazonie en elle meme ne semble avoir que peu d interet, ce st mythique ok, comme la traversee de la siberie ou de la patagonie que j ai deja faites, mais en fait ce st kif kif, c est a dire que ce st tres long et ennuyeux car toujours pareil du debut a la fin, dans le cas de l amazonie les bateaux sont loin des rives vu la taille de l amazone et puis bon, la foret ce st la foret, au bout d un jour ca gave et 10 jours sur un bateau, meme si je fais des stops, ca me semble un peu long et chiant.
qu en pensez vous les gars?
Salut,
Desole pour le temps de reponse mais j etais en vadrouille.
Pour les korubos, oui, ca peut craindre. De plus, il faut du temps pour descendre quand meme et surtout des motoristes qui soient motives.
Ce qui revient vraiment cher dans tout ca, c est l essence. Comme je t avais dis, les peques peques consomment quasiment rien mais c est lent. A toi de voir. L avantage, c est qu ils passent partout.
Est ce que ca vaut le coup d aller du cote bresilien?? Non, sauf pour aller sur le Tapajos. Sinon, reste au Perou. Tu en feras autant si ce n est plus.
Pour ce qui est du temps a passer en foret...A chacun de voir. De mon cote, je sais que passer des jours entiers sur une pirogue/bateau (pas un gros bateau), en faisant des haltes chez des gens qui vivent dans un autre monde, en dormant dans le hamac dans le bateau, et en regardant tout ce vert et ecouter tous ces bruits, ca m eclate comme un mome. Maintenant, il y a effectivement peu d interet a traverser l Amazonie en bus ou en bateau, via l Amazone ou autre grande autoroute, si ce n est de ce dire qu on l a fait. Mais bon...
Ce qui est sympa, c est de se focaliser sur une riviere et ses affluents, voire de faire un peu de marche pour apres rejoindre une autre riviere. Comme cela tu auras une vue d ensemble pour ensuite rentrer dans le detail et aller ainsi des communautes les plus accessibles a celles deja plus compliquees d acces.
Dans tous les cas, n oublie pas que pour certains coins que j indique, il te faudra l autorisation des natifs pour rentrer sur leur territoire, c est a dire, leur expliquer tes intentions.
Merci pour l invitation, mais j en reviens. J y repars debut mars, en septembre et certainement en octobre. Entre mars et septembre, repos, boulot et, pour changer d air, quelques balades en haute montagne.
A + et n hesite pas.
Es un hombre que se va, la lagrima se queda.
merci zitoune!
du temps j en ai.
de l energie un peu moins car je suis en fin de trip et ai accumule pas mal d heures ces dernieres annees mais ca ira...
ce que tu me dis sur le bresil confirme bien ce que j en pensais, mais je vais quand meme me renseigner pour ce tapajos.
en fait ce que je compte faire, mais ca peut changer, ce st demarrer de satipo, de la aller soit directement a puerto bermudez a pied et en bateau, soit faire un detour par la reserva comunal ashaninka avant d aller a puerto bermudez.
puis de la aller sur le pachitea, puis apres pucallpa j aviserai s il y a l air d y avoir des trucs valables sur le trajet qui mene a iquitos.
et ensuite ma fois je sais pas.
le marañon?
le bresil avant de rentrer en france?
a ver...
la en fait je suis a lima pour encore quelques jours car j ai grand besoin de me reposer et pense partir debut mars.
si tu es interesse et si on a des itineraires qui s accordent fais le moi savoir, ca serait volontiers...
il y a quelques trucs qui me chiffonnent:
tout le monde me dit qu il faut se presenter avant d entrer dans un village.
concretement ca veut dire quoi?
leur dire que je viens jeter un oeil parce que je suis interesse par leur culture etc...?
et on me dit aussi qu il faut souvent arriver les bras charges de cadeaux.
qu en est il reellement, parce que ca ce st pas trop mon truc.
sinon j imagine bien qu il faudra que j arrive avec ma bouffe, mais pour dormir dans les villages ca le fait comment?
je paye en sous?
en bouffe?
en nature(hehehehhehe!😎)?
Salut,
Pour ce qui est des cadeaux...Tu ne vas quand meme pas arriver avec de la verroterie! Donc, bof. Je ne suis jamais arrive avec des cadeaux dans un village amazonien et j ai toujours ete bien recu. Par contre, il m est arrive de laisser a une ou plusieurs personnes quelque chose qui m appartenait en quittant les lieux, un souvenir en quelque sorte. A toi de voir en fonction de tes rapports avec les gens.
Pour ce qui est de l autorisation = montrer ses intentions :
En fait, dans certains cas, il faut expliquer ce que tu viens faire avant de penetrer sur leur territoire. Dans ton cas, tu dis simplement que c est du tourisme. C est tout. En quelque sorte, c est une prise de contact qui leur permet de te rencontrer, de s assurer que tu ne travailles pas pour des petroliers par exemple, avant que tu te balades sur leur territoire. C est tout, ca evite les malentendus, et ce n est pas le cas partout. Tu pourras te rendre dans de nombreux endroits sans avoir a realiser cette demarche.
Pour ce qui est de la nourriture. Amene effectivement une base puis complete en achetant du gibier chasse ou du poisson peche par les villageois (si y a du poisson et du gibier dans le coin bien sur). Tu as aussi, parfois, des petites tiendas dans les communautes qui vendent quelques conserves (generalement du thon).
Pour dormir, il y a souvent dans les communautes une ou plusieurs maisons vides qui se louent. Generalement 10 soles par jour, parfois un peu moins, parfois un peu plus. Il se peut aussi que le chef te prete un espace dans la maison communale ou bien, qu il t heberge chez lui ou un famille. Tout depend du temps que tu resteras en fait. Prend un hammac ou bien, s ils te foutent dehors🏴☠️, prends une tente!
Voila en gros.
A +
PS : la je suis a Lima mais je pars demain au nord du pays.
PS : la je suis a Lima mais je pars demain au nord du pays.
Es un hombre que se va, la lagrima se queda.
ben pour les cadeaux on m avait dit qu il fallait ramener genre du tabac, des vetements etc, mais moi non plus je ne suis pas pour ce genre d etrucs.
laisser un souvenir en partant ca m arrive, en fonction en effet du feeling que j ai eu avec les gens.
pour la bouffe ok, ce st comme partout...
expliquer mes intentions pas de bleme, ce st vrai que les pauvres sont tres menaces par les petroliers et escrocs de tout poil...
pour l hebergement j ai mon hamac mousticaire de toute facon, mais je me demandais si prendre ma tente serait utile car j ai un pote qui peut la ramener en france.
en foret de basse altitude c est inutile mais la je ne connais pas trop la topographie et l altitude et s il caille la nuit ce st l enfer en hammac, le froid te vient du bas et ce st le dos qui trinque.
je suis a lima aussi, pour je suppose encore 3-4 jours.
si tu as le temps et que ca te dit de passer dire bonjour je suis a la casa del mochilero, chacalltana 130 a(a l etage), pres de l ovale morales barros dans miraflores, tel 4449089.
sinon ben bon voyage dans le nord et encore merci pour les infos...
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We're planning a trip to southern Chile in November. Here's our tentative itinerary:
Day 1: Arrival in Santiago, then a flight the next day to Balmaceda where we'll pick up a rental car to reach Coyhaique.
Day 3: Walk in the Coyhaique National Reserve, then continue to Puerto Chacabuco. Return to Coyhaique for the second night.
Day 4: Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo for a hike in the national park. Continue to Puerto Tranquilo and stay there for 3 nights.
Day 5: Boat tour on Laguna San Rafael.
Day 6: Day trip to Monte San Valentin Glacier.
Day 7: Excursion to the Marble Chapels, then drive to Puerto Guadal. We'll stay there for 3 nights.
Day 8: Walk along Lago Carrera and return to Puerto Guadal.
Day 9: Rio Baker Valley and, if possible, a glacier excursion.
Day 10: Drive to Cochrane and hike in Tamango National Reserve. We'll stay 2 nights in Cochrane.
Day 11: Walk in the Chacabuco Valley.
Day 12: Drive to Caleta Tortel. We'll stay there for 2 nights.
Day 13: Cruise in the Rio Baker delta.
Day 14: Return to Cochrane.
Day 15: Return to Balmaceda in two stages.
Day 16: Continue the return journey.
Day 17: Return the rental car and head back to Santiago.
After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.
What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days? Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations. martine
After this, we're also planning to explore northern Santiago. I'll post about that part once I have a clearer idea of the route.
What do you think of this itinerary? Is it doable in 17 days? Thanks in advance for your tips and recommendations. martine
Hi everyone! So happy to be back on this forum—it’s packed with such useful info! 🙂 My husband and I are planning a 2.5-week self-drive trip to Colombia at the end of the year, including some domestic flights. My first question is: is it possible, easy, and safe to do a road trip in Colombia?
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Below is our draft itinerary (with questions at each stop):
29/11: France → Colombia. Overnight in Bogotá. 30/11: Exploring Bogotá: La Candelaria and Montserrate. 01/12: Gold Museum (closed on Mondays). Drive to Zipaquirá (1.5 hrs) to visit the Salt Cathedral. Then drive to Villa de Leyva (3 hrs). Explore the town. Overnight in Villa de Leyva. 02/12: Return to Bogotá via Laguna de Guatavita (5 hrs). Is it worth the detour? Overnight in Bogotá. 03/12: Flight to Pereira. Drive to Salento. Overnight in Salento. 04/12: Cocora Valley (hike among the wax palms) followed by a drive around the area. Are there any waterfalls or other sights nearby? 05/12: Visit a coffee finca—any recommendations? Then explore the surroundings: Filandia, Manizales, waterfalls? Hot springs? Which ones? 06/12: Flight to Medellín. 07/12: Exploring Medellín: Centro, Plaza Botero, Comuna 13. How do you visit Comuna 13? Is it easy to get around Medellín? Metro? Buses? 08/12: Drive to Guatapé (2 hrs). Visit the town, stroll around the lake, then El Peñol. Overnight in Guatapé. 09/12: Return to Medellín. 10/12: Flight to Santa Marta. Drive to a hotel near Tayrona Park. 11/12: Tayrona—El Zaino entrance. 12/12: Tayrona—Palangana entrance, then Bahia Concha and Santa Marta. What do you think? 13/12: Drive to Minca (45 mins). Can we reach the village by car? Pozo Azul and Marinka waterfalls. Overnight in Minca (or back in Tayrona?). 14/12: Drive to Puerto Nao (5 hrs). Stop in Ciénaga on the way + boat tour in Nueva Venecia and/or Buena Vista? Not enough time? Overnight in Puerto Nao. 15/12: Exploring Cartagena: Centro, Getsemaní, the walls + La Boquilla if we have time. 16/12: La Boquilla (is it really worth it?) if we didn’t have time yesterday, then back to the beach. 17/12: Return to France.
So, what do you think? Is this doable, or should we tweak it? Thanks in advance for your invaluable feedback and tips! 🙂
Hi there, I’ll be in Brazil from December 10th to the end of February.
I’ve sketched out a rough itinerary but I’m not sure how to arrange it—considering the climate, year-end holidays, and Carnival.
Basically, I’m thinking of the Amazon, the Northeast coast with Lençóis Maranhenses National Park (but skipping Chapada Diamantina),
Ouro Preto, Paraty, and Ilha Grande—but no Rio visit.
Is this doable in 3 months?
Which direction should I take for this itinerary?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone, does anyone know the agency Ventura Travel Agency (not ventura travel)? After lots of research and quotes, it’s the only one offering Uyuni at a reasonable price while meeting all the criteria: transfer to the border, private-room accommodation, and a very fair rate. Other agencies or guides either offer shared rooms, no border transfer, or prices that are way too high. But I’d love to hear some reviews about this agency. Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
We're planning a trip to Chile to visit the Atacama Desert and then head toward Putre, Lauca, Salar de Surire, etc.
Which would be the better time to go, April or November?
Is an SUV enough?
Looking forward to your tips!
Hi, I'm looking for a local agency in Uyuni to do the trip and tours from Uyuni to San Pedro de Atacama. Thanks for sharing your experience!
Hi there,
Could you recommend any car rental agencies in Calama and Punta Arenas? Best regards,
Could you recommend any car rental agencies in Calama and Punta Arenas? Best regards,
Hi everyone, French travelers in Chile—what credit cards do you use for your various car rentals in the country? I’m traveling in September and was planning to switch my regular debit card (a VISA PREMIER in deferred debit mode) for the deposit guarantee.
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
My rentals are with Figal in Punta Arenas, Econautos in Arica, and Chilean Rent a Car in Temuco, and all of them want the deposit on a credit card. For me, deferred debit *should* work, but I’ve read comments saying the opposite.
How’s it actually working on the ground with these rental companies right now? Will a deferred debit card work, or not at all?
In France, banks don’t issue credit cards, right—or am I mistaken?
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone, is it still possible to travel in Ecuador outside the Amazon region? If so, do you have a reliable agency to recommend? All your recent experiences from the past few months would be greatly appreciated. Thanks so much
Hi,
We’re heading to Buenos Aires for 3 days in November and would like to do a guided tour of a few neighborhoods. There are "free" tours, but none in French. Does anyone have a guide to recommend so we can really get to know the city beyond just the architecture?
Thanks
Hi there,
I’m desperately looking for info on the schedules and routes of (shared) boats to visit the islands of Lake Titicaca.
From what I’ve found, there’s a *combi* (bus) that leaves from Puno to go to Llachon. Where do you catch it? What are the schedules and frequency? Does it take about 1 hour?
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
Then in Llachon, you can take a boat to Amantani (45 min). Same question—where do you check for frequency and schedule? After that, from Amantani, boats go to Taquile and then Uros. Do you have enough time to visit the islands between two boats? Frequency and schedule?
The goal is to do this tour independently (no agency) over 2 days. Thanks for any tips you might have!
Hey everyone,
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin
I just got back from a trip to Bolivia and wow—what a wake-up call. It’s not the easiest country, but it’s absolutely stunning.
I started with Isla del Sol, perfect for easing into the altitude at a relaxed pace. Try to stay in the northern part of the island—it’s quieter and the views are insane. And the trout there? Unreal. Quick tip: bring cash in small bills; they almost never have change, and cards are rarely accepted.
Next up, La Paz. The city’s pretty wild, built in every direction. I did a few hikes in the area, including the famous Charquini Lagoon (the blue lake) at over 5,000 m—let’s just say I struggled 😅 but it was so beautiful it was totally worth it.
After that, I headed to Sajama. It’s cool, especially for the hot springs, and I stayed in Tomarapi. But honestly, if you’re short on time, you can skip it without too many regrets.
The highlight of the trip: the Salar. I did it starting from Tupiza, and I *highly* recommend going Tupiza → Uyuni. Way less crowded at the start and the landscapes are super varied. For the tour, I used SplitYourGuide to find a group, and it worked out great. Super handy for splitting costs and meeting people.
I wrapped up in Sucre—this city is gorgeous, all white, with such a chill vibe. And the salteñas + ice cream? Next level 😋
Bottom line: Bolivia’s a bit rough around the edges, sometimes exhausting (shoutout to the altitude), but it’s 1000% worth it.
If you’ve got questions or need tips, I’m happy to help! Martin
hi,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
I was planning to go to Réunion and stay in half-board accommodation with non-professionals, but it seems that’s not really the custom there—or maybe my budget isn’t big enough.
So, since I’ve already traveled around Ecuador and Peru, I’m now looking at Argentina, especially for its mountains (like the ones in Réunion that tempted me, even though—frustratingly—I could only admire them from below).
I plan to get around by bus and don’t know in advance where I’ll sleep, so I won’t book ahead. If I like a place, I might stay for several days.
I know that in Chile, it’s easy to find half-board accommodation, but what about in Argentina?
I’d like to stay with locals in half-board without it being a professional setup. I’m not sure if this is common practice there. It’s up to me to find someone willing to host me. What do you think? What would be a fair price (keeping in mind that 40 to 50 € is the max I can spend on accommodation, breakfast, and dinner)?
Looking forward to your feedback.
Best regards,
Hi everyone,
We’re heading to Patagonia for three weeks in November, starting from Coyhaique in Chile.
We won’t have a car, and I’m struggling to find information about transportation options for a few parts of the itinerary we’d like to do:
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions! Thomas
1) From Perito Moreno (the town, near Los Antiguos), we’d like to travel down Ruta 40 to visit Perito Moreno National Park and then cross into Chile via the Paso Roballos (at the latitude of Bajo Caracoles) to reach the road to Cochrane. Without a car, it seems we’ll need to use private agencies to get to the national park—do you have any recommendations or suggestions? Also, does anyone know if it’s possible to cross into Chile via Paso Roballos (from Bajo Caracoles) without a rental car? That is, without having to go all the way down to El Chaltén or back up toward Perito Moreno/Los Antiguos, etc.?
2) The second stretch that seems a bit tricky (though still easier, in theory) is from Caleta Tortel to Villa O’Higgins on the Chilean side. Do we have to go back through Cochrane, or are there ways to get directly from Tortel to Villa O’Higgins?
3) Finally, we’d like to hike into Argentina (El Chaltén) from O’Higgins. Any recommendations for this? Do we need to go through an agency? What’s the estimated duration of the trek?
As you’ve probably gathered, we want to visit some off-the-beaten-path spots but don’t have a car, so we’re looking for the best possible compromises.
Thanks so much in advance for all your suggestions! Thomas
Hi,
we’re planning a round trip from San Pedro de Atacama, Chile, to Salta, Argentina, in two months. On the way there, we’ll take the northern route via Susques, Route 27, then 52. But for the return, we were thinking of taking the southern route via San Antonio de los Cobres, Route 51, then 23. Is it similar to the northern route in terms of road surface? How busy is it, and are there gas stations? Basically, should we be worried about doing it in an SUV that’s supposedly 4x4 but has regular road tires and no second spare wheel, obviously...
I’ve seen that we can stop over in San Antonio de los Cobres.
Thanks for your feedback.
Raf.
Hi,
we’ll be in Calama at the end of March 2026, and I’m looking for a reliable car rental there for a 7-day road trip to Salta, Argentina. But I’m struggling with the car rental agencies in Calama because the reviews can be scary. I saw Gyg, which has great ratings, but I’m a bit wary (5/5 from 59 reviews—either the guy’s amazing or it’s fake...), but I can’t find any recent reviews on VF in general.
For Punta Arenas, I booked with Dachelet and didn’t have any issues with email exchanges.
Thanks in advance.
Raf.
Hi everyone!
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto
9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car
10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night
14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena
15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)
16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory
17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)
18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)
19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco
20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón
21-Villarrica Volcano
22-Parque Huerquehue
23-Activities on-site
24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there
25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site
26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?
27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?
28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro
29-Explore Chiloé
30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas
31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)
32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)
33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén
34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?
35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique
36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo
37-Hike Cerro Castillo
38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo
39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores
40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities
41-Drive to Cochrane
42-Parque Patagonia
43-Drive to Chile Chico
44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car
45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city
46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales
47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
50-Drive to Punta Arenas
51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)
52-Explore Buenos Aires
53-Explore Buenos Aires
54-Explore Buenos Aires
55-Flight back to France
I’m planning the trip of my dreams for next November—Chile! I’d love to get your thoughts on my potential itinerary. I know it’s a big investment in terms of both time and money, so every bit of feedback, suggestion, or info helps immensely. Thank you in advance!!
1-Flight to Santiago
2-Explore Santiago
3-Explore Santiago
4-Bus from STG to Valpo (2h) + visit Valparaíso + night in Viña
5-Visit Valparaíso + bus back to STG (2h)
6-Flight to Calama + bus to San Pedro + explore and acclimate in San Pedro + car rental in the afternoon (+Chaxa?)
7-(Very early) Valle del Arcoíris + Laguna Cejar + Valle de la Luna
8-Laguna Miñiques & Miscanti + Salar de Talar + Laguna Tuyajto
9-Geysers El Tatio early in the morning + Cañón de Guatín + return car
10-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
11-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
12-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni
13-Excursion to Salar de Uyuni + return to San Pedro for the night
14-Bus to Calama + flight Calama-La Serena + explore La Serena
15-Excursion to Reserva Pingüino + bonus time (sunset at Playa Tongoy or elsewhere...)
16-Rent a car in Pisco Elqui & Vicuña + Observatory
17-Return car in La Serena + flight Santiago & Puerto Montt (4h)
18-Rent a 4x2 car + drive to Temuco (4h)
19-Reserva Nacional Malalcahuello + hike + night in Temuco
20-Parque Nacional Conguillío then drive and night in Pucón
21-Villarrica Volcano
22-Parque Huerquehue
23-Activities on-site
24-Drive to Valdivia + explore and night there
25-Drive to Puerto Varas (via Frutillar, etc.) + activities on-site
26-Salto Las Cascadas + Parque Nacional Vicente Pérez Rosales (Salto del Petrohué) + Canoeing/Rafting?
27-Drive to Parque Alerce Andino (round trip 3h) + hike Sendero Sargazo?
28-Drive to Castro + explore Chiloé and night in Castro
29-Explore Chiloé
30-Explore Chiloé + return to Puerto Varas
31-Drive to Cochamó (1h30) + drive to Hornopirén (2h30)
32-Ferry to Caleta Gonzalo + drive to Chaitén (1h20)
33-Parque Nacional Pumalín, night in Chaitén
34-Drive to Puyuhuapi + Sendero Ventisquero Yelcho?
35-Ventisquero Colgante + drive to Coyhaique
36-Drive to Villa Cerro Castillo
37-Hike Cerro Castillo
38-Drive to Puerto Río Tranquilo
39-Excursion to Glaciar Exploradores
40-Mármol Cathedral + lake activities
41-Drive to Cochrane
42-Parque Patagonia
43-Drive to Chile Chico
44-Ferry Chile Chico-Ibañez + drive to Coyhaique + drop off car
45-Flight to Punta Arenas (1h30) + explore the city
46-Rent a car + drive to Puerto Natales
47-Drive to Torres del Paine in the morning + hike to the base of the towers (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
48-Torres del Paine hike 2 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
49-Torres del Paine hike 3 (return to Puerto Natales for the night)
50-Drive to Punta Arenas
51-Flight Punta Arenas-Santiago + flight Santiago-Buenos Aires (2h)
52-Explore Buenos Aires
53-Explore Buenos Aires
54-Explore Buenos Aires
55-Flight back to France
Good evening,
We’d love to go in November to enjoy some beautiful beaches for about two weeks, preferably around Bahia, as November/December seems like a great time.
We’ve already traveled to Brazil several times and know the south of Rio as well as the region between São Luís and Fortaleza, and Chapada Diamantina...
What advice would you give us: the south with Itaparica, Morro de São Paulo, Boipeba, Barra Grande—or all four? Or maybe the north?
Thanks in advance for your help
Hi everyone, it’s been a while since I last posted!
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
First time in South America for me, my wife, and our 7-year-old son. I’ve put together this itinerary and would love to hear your thoughts:
Bogotá 28/07 – 30/07: Arrival. Which neighborhood and outings would you recommend? Flight to
2 Filandia 30/07 – 03/08: (255 €). Waterfalls and horseback riding, Cocora Valley, Hiking, Nearby villages. Flight to 3 Tayrona 03/08 – 07/08: Hotel La Casablanca
Hike with Tierra Nevada and the Kogui village (any feedback?). Return by inner tube for the little one. Short night hike. Second hike to La Piscina, etc., return by 🐎.
4 Cartagena 07/08 – 10/08: Air-conditioned bus. Staying in Getsemaní? Mangroves & the Castle, exploring the city.
5 Bogotá 10/08 – 12/08
Feel free to share your feedback! Have a great day!
Seb
Hi,
During an upcoming trip to Peru, we’ll have one day to explore around Arequipa (excluding Colca Canyon) with a car and driver.
We’ve got a few options:
- Toro Muerto petroglyphs and dinosaur footprints at Querulpa
- Ruta del Sillar and Quebrada de Culebrillas
What do you think? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance! Larri
What do you think? Any recommendations?
Thanks in advance! Larri
We’re a group of 6 friends with an average age of 70, all mobile, and we’re planning a trip to Peru in September/October 2026. Below is an idea of what we’re looking for: a French-speaking guide, accommodation in 3-star hotels or homestays with comfort.
Duration: 16 to 20 days on-site.
Visit the main sites with immersion in the culture and way of life.
Which francophone agency in Peru would you recommend? Thanks
Hi there!
I’m putting together my itinerary for Brazil, looking for beautiful natural spots with wildlife, flora, and great hikes...
I’ve come across the Cananeia / Super Agui / Ilha do Mel region and the PETAR / Intervales / Alto Ribeira area.
Has anyone here been to these places? If so, do you have any recommendations for accommodations and activities?
Thanks in advance!
Best,
Olivier 🌍
Hello,
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?
I’ll be in ARICA in northern Chile at the end of May 2026 and want to get to TACNA. Are there taxis, buses, or collectivos that run the border crossing route?
After that, bus to AREQUIPA (Peru): any bus company you’d recommend?