Crossing China with your vehicle from Mongolia to Nepal
FR

Translated into English.

Original post
NA
Hi, Has anyone here already crossed China with your own vehicle (with a guide and in a group, etc.) to get from Mongolia to Nepal? And on top of that, with a dog on board? Thanks in advance for your feedback.
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XA Xagga Regular ·
Good evening, How many vehicles? With a minimum of 3 vehicles and a Chinese guide (especially in Xinjiang and from Chengdu to Nepal). There are agencies that handle all the transit permits for you, but it’s not cheap. At least $3,000–4,000 per vehicle, just for the permission to drive in China!

Then I was alone with my Land Rover! One month in Russia-Siberia and one month in Mongolia, and then I had to go back through Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, and then the Torugart Pass to enter China. The price offered by Beijing was $5,000 just for my vehicle to cross China and continue to Nepal. Today, it’s only possible and guaranteed for a minimum of 3 vehicles.

Nowadays, in principle, the route from Chengdu to Nepal isn’t open to tourists. But with a guide for the entire trip, approved by Beijing, it’s possible.

So now, I sold my Land Rover and I travel in China with a driver and his vehicle instead! In principle, it’s cheaper. In September 2018, I’m visiting the Chengdu-Nepal region. I can gather info while I’m there!

So, what’s your plan and your budget? China is very expensive because a guide is often mandatory for certain routes. Good luck with your preparations. John
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
AU Aurolatino ·
Yes, that's what I'm doing right now, with my dog too.

Here’s my experience: From Mongolia, I crossed the border at Erenhot to enter China. China required a ton of preparation, but with the agency’s approval, I can travel solo without a guide. The guide was only necessary for the border crossing at Erenhot and will also be required to cross Tibet. Total cost for 3 months of self-driving in China: 4000 €.

As for Nepal and India, that’ll be in a few months. However, I’m looking for someone who might have info on the *carnet de passage* or Triptyque. Is it possible to skip it? Or find a workaround—I’m open to ideas!
TI TifNiko ·
Hi there!

Sorry we can’t give you more info on the customs logbook, but we’d love to cross China in October 2018 with our own vehicle. Ideally without a guide, which is why we’re interested in knowing which agency you used?

Thanks in advance and safe travels!
XA Xagga Regular ·
Have you already made it to China? Back in 2009, I was in Mongolia and they wouldn’t let me cross alone. The cost was only $5000 for self-drive in China, but I got stuck at the border and had to turn back through Russia, Kazakhstan, and Uzbekistan. If you’re not in China yet, ask for a guarantee that they’ll let you cross the border solo. If you’re already in China, all good! Chinese permits have gotten more flexible!

I’m back in China for a month now, but not with my own vehicle—just with a Chinese driver and their car.

I was curious to know if you’re in China and solo. Thanks for your reply. John
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
BA Baroud3x20F Regular ·
Hi there,

We’re planning to head to Vietnam via the Silk Road, which means driving across China. Just one vehicle. Is it still necessary to hire a guide and pay $4,000 to $5,000? Or even more??

Thanks for any recent info! Cheers, Nadine
TI TifNiko ·
Hello According to the latest updates, it's impossible to travel alone with your vehicle without being accompanied by a guide. After several days of research and contacting around ten agencies, they all say the same thing and shut down any attempt at negotiation... yet we haven’t found any official text or law! It really looks like institutionalized scamming, but we don’t have a choice... We’ll be crossing China in 30 days at the start of October with two other vehicles for 2700 € (excluding tolls, parking, and camping...). For a single vehicle, the agency was asking for 6000 € if the guide rode with us and 13000 € if they had to travel with their own driver and car... since we only have 2 seats, we eventually found other vehicles to transport the guide and split the costs.

Tif and Niko
XA Xagga Regular ·
Hello, In all the autonomous regions (Xinjiang, Tibet, etc.), a guide is mandatory. In the other regions, it's possible to drive without one! I don’t think you can cross Tibet without a guide. I’m leaving on September 1st for Yunnan and Tibet—I’m looking into it! What’s your planned route in China? Happy planning. John
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
BA Baroud3x20F Regular ·
Hi everyone, and thanks in advance for any tips now or later.

We’re planning to enter China by van from Kyrgyzstan (Silk Road route) and drive all the way across to reach Vietnam—so no Tibet or other detours.

We can’t afford $6,000 or 6,000 €!!!

All suggestions are welcome.

Thanks again
TI TifNiko ·
Hello,

Even though Chinese law allows us to drive in China without a guide in certain regions... In practice, it's impossible because you need Chinese license plates and a Chinese permit, which means going through an intermediary to handle the paperwork... And that's the problem because, not knowing anyone in China, we had to go through an agency to get these documents, and no agency currently agrees to handle these procedures without organizing a guided trip afterward (despite our insistence and arguments). For the route, we're traveling from Laos to Mongolia (roughly: Erenhot - Beijing - Xi'an - Chengdu - Shangri-La - Dali...)

Safe travels in Nepal, John! For this trip, we'll go later as pedestrians because it was too complicated by vehicle 😉

Tiph and Niko - Tantor des Passeports 😛
XA Xagga Regular ·
Hi there, China is absolutely stunning on foot! You're right. I managed to drive the entire Silk Road with my vehicle, except for China. Because the permits from Beijing, the requirement to get a Chinese driver’s license, and the obligation to have a guide in Xinjiang made me change my mind. I sold my Land Rover and now I organize custom trips with Chinese partners for all my travels in China. I’ve already done it on foot—Beijing, Guilin, Vietnam—in 2 months back in 2000.

All of September 2018, I was in Sichuan, Yunnan, and Tibet (Shangri-La). For a group of 1 to 3 people, the cost is around 100–150 € per day for the vehicle and driver. They call this a "semi-independent trip." If you want a French-speaking guide, it’s an extra 100 € per day. My next—and last—trip on the Silk Road (2020) will be from Bishkek to Torugart, Kashgar, the Taklamakan Desert, and Xi’an. It’s budget-friendly in Kyrgyzstan, but very expensive in Xinjiang. To cross it, I’d need to budget 500–600 € per day for a group of 2 people, and I’m traveling solo! So we’ll see. Safe travels, John
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
XA Xagga Regular ·
You're crossing Xinjiang solo, so a guide is mandatory—and they aren’t cheap! Then there’s the Chinese driver’s license, Chinese license plates, and permits from Beijing. 5000 € is really the bare minimum! And you’re lucky if you can even cross the border alone!

Good luck with the prep. John
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
XA Xagga Regular ·
Response from my contact in China. Here are the guide prices in China already.

Regarding your friends' trip from Mongolia to Kathmandu, there are no French-speaking guides in Inner Mongolia, but we can find very good and experienced guides to accompany you during your trip. The price is 80 euros per day per group (excluding their meals, accommodations, and transportation).

I’d like to know more details so I can provide them with a detailed itinerary and quote. For example:

1. Which city will they enter China through?

2. What hotel category do they need?

3. What’s the age and type of their vehicle? Foreigners over 60 can get a temporary type C license in China, which means vehicles with 7 seats or fewer.

Don’t hesitate to contact me if you have any questions. Have a great day!

May
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
TI TifNiko ·
Yeah, we’re seeing the same rates with a guide at 80 €/day. Once you add all the agency’s extra fees for paperwork and whatnot, it comes out to 2,700 €/vehicle (for a group of 3), not including tolls, parking, camping...
AU Aurolatino ·
Hi there,

Sorry for the late reply—hopefully my experience can still help some folks:

I drove solo across China for 3 months without a guide. Only Tibet *requires* a guide by law. Most agencies push for one due to safety concerns, not official rules (except Tibet, again). So yes, it’s possible to drive without a guide, but you’ll need to find a flexible agency. Chances are slim if it’s just for tourism, though. In my case, I was filming a documentary, wasn’t always in the car, and stayed for 3 months instead of 30 days—so they made an exception.

The agency that handled my trip: **Great Way Tour** in Chengdu. Email: cj.li@greatwaytour.com (Nicolas speaks French). Honestly, the communication was *rough*. Very rough.

My plan was to cross into Nepal via Tibet, but that got canceled because the border’s closed due to landslides from severe rain that destroyed the road. Solution: we had to ship the car by boat from Tianjin port (near Beijing) to Mumbai (cost: around $1500—roughly the same as driving 10 days in Tibet with a guide. Watch out: another $900 to retrieve the car in India).

Open question for everyone: Since I had to send my car to Mumbai, I’m looking for travelers with a vehicle taking this route: Laos → Thailand → Myanmar → India. Anyone? I can split gas costs! Please share! ;)
DE Defender83 Regular ·
Hi, when I drove across China—Kazakhstan, Tibet, Mongolia—we didn’t have any camping options, nor did we see any campgrounds. The only option was the hotel recommended by the guide, but by avoiding booking a room, it was possible to sleep in the parking lot. Otherwise, you’ll need to budget for that. Happy travels.
"Celui qui se perd dans sa passion est moins perdu que celui qui perd sa passion." Saint-Augustin (354-430)
JH Jhonitto05 ·
We're planning a family trip across Asia. There will be five of us traveling in a camper van. Like many of us, we'd like to cross China in a convoy to minimize agency and guide fees. We got a quote from the NAVO agency for a Mongolia-Laos crossing in 45 days (which already seems short given the country's potential). We'd like to enter China at the end of September 2017 to avoid the harsh Mongolian cold and to be inside before the Chinese annual holiday week. Our plans have really come together—if you'd like to discuss and have similar ambitions,
XA Xagga Regular ·
2017 is done! Started in October, during the Chinese holidays. Had a blast on the road! With 1 billion Chinese people traveling! Just got back from a month in China. And made it back before the Chinese holidays! End of September! Are you going via Vietnam?
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
MA Mathéous ·
Hello,

I’m planning to drive across China in a camper van by myself, and I really, *really* don’t have the budget for a guide or all the extras. So I’m very interested in hearing about your experience. Did you need a special driver’s license, special registration plates, or a special visa (maybe a journalist visa if you were filming)? Mine will just be a standard tourist visa. I assume the agency you linked provided you with an invitation letter including a detailed itinerary. And I also assume that over three months, you didn’t follow that itinerary to the letter. Did you run into any problems? Basically, I’m looking for as much info as possible. Thanks in advance, Best,
RE RenaudTripet ·
Hello Mathéous, If you still decide to join a group to split the guide’s costs, I’m putting together a group to travel from Kyrgyzstan to Nepal via Tibet next September. We already have three vehicles, and I’d love to have five. Let me know if you’re interested or if you’d like more details. I have offers from Greatways and Navo. Best regards, Renaud www.tripetnomade.ch
Renaud Tripet, Val-de-Ruz, Suisse
MA Mathéous ·
Hi Renaud,

I might be interested, but I really can’t guarantee anything. September is a long way off for me, and I’d really love to find a way to cross without a guide. Freedom, you know 😊. But if I don’t find a way, well, sure, why not wait and do the trip with you. Mathieu,
XA Xagga Regular ·
For a trip to China, now’s the time to organize the permits. There are a lot of issues, especially if you cross autonomous regions like Xinjiang or Tibet. You can’t go without a guide in these areas, but you’re free to choose your route with your guide. The cost is around 80 € per day for a guide in these two regions. You can also share the guide with several vehicles. I always travel solo in the Middle East, but these days I always go with a local guide. I’m heading back in 2020 to finish the Silk Road in China from Kashgar through the Taklamakan to Xin Yan. I’ll be renting a 4x4 in China. I found a Uyghur driver-guide, so I’ll have no problem crossing this autonomous region! So for China, if you want to start from the Torugart Pass, I’d recommend going in a group of at least 3 vehicles if you plan to cross these two autonomous regions. Wishing you a smooth preparation.
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
RE RenaudTripet ·
Hello Mathieu, I hope you find an individual solution for crossing China. As for me, I believe it’s impossible, which is why I’m working on putting together a group to share the guide’s costs. Feel free to write to me directly at tripet@mac.com if you decide to join us. Safe travels, and maybe we’ll cross paths in Tibet. Renaud
Renaud Tripet, Val-de-Ruz, Suisse
DE Defender83 Regular ·
Hi. Check out Tibetmoto agency—they’ve got a solid solution for the China deposit that no one mentions. Big surprises with Greatway, especially for Land Rover owners.
"Celui qui se perd dans sa passion est moins perdu que celui qui perd sa passion." Saint-Augustin (354-430)
RE RenaudTripet ·
Hi, Tibetmoto is one of the operators I'm considering hiring. To be continued... Regarding Greatways' (bad) surprise, was it about the deposit? Thanks in advance for your reply. Best regards, Renaud
Renaud Tripet, Val-de-Ruz, Suisse
DE Defender83 Regular ·
Indeed, my 12-year-old 4x4 was classified as luxury and valued at 28,000 €—with the agency’s complicity, this was reduced to 9,600 €, then reimbursed 3 months after leaving China (instead of the 1 month stated in the contract) and deducted by a bunch of uncontrollable fees, including from my French bank. Not going through Greatway is a definite advantage just based on this alone. No one talks about the vehicle technical inspection (for those entering via Khorgos in the northwest): 3 days of administrative Chinese bureaucracy just to get the right to drive your vehicle, plus a riding test for motorcyclists. All of this with the complicity of guides (not linked to the agency but to the Chinese police) who are afraid of losing their jobs if they don’t go along with what’s "necessary." Three deliberate Chinese collisions, resolved by the foreigner paying a sum to the responsible Chinese party. All this to say that the agency isn’t protection—just a front for the administration—and you shouldn’t give up on going to China with your vehicle because it’s an adventure, and everything you can see and experience there is worth the hassle and precautions to get there in a group of max 4. Best regards
"Celui qui se perd dans sa passion est moins perdu que celui qui perd sa passion." Saint-Augustin (354-430)
RE RenaudTripet ·
Really valuable info. Thanks a million! Renaud
Renaud Tripet, Val-de-Ruz, Suisse
TC Tcvoyageur Veteran ·
Hi there,

Just a heads-up: I see that this discussion includes participants from several nationalities (French, Belgian, Swiss, etc.).

Everyone’s experiences are always interesting to share, but keep in mind that administrative procedures can differ depending on your country of origin.

For example: as far as I know, despite all the discussions between the French and Chinese governments over the past two years, there’s still no bilateral agreement between the two countries regarding driver’s licenses.

To drive in China, a French citizen (I’m not sure about Belgians or Swiss) will need a Chinese driver’s license. And to obtain one, you still—if I’m not mistaken—have to prove that you’ve been residing (or staying?) in China for a minimum period, which isn’t compatible with the kind of cross-China trip described in this thread.

Rather than a guide (which isn’t always mandatory, depending on the provinces you visit in China), you might actually need a Chinese driver.
Thierry

On dit souvent "Fermez la porte, il fait froid dehors !" Mais une fois la porte fermée, il fait toujours aussi froid dehors.
XA Xagga Regular ·
For the license, check https://cn.ambafrance.org/Permis-de-conduire In Tibet and the Xinjiang autonomous province, you **must** have a driver and a guide. Or get a Chinese driver's license!
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
DE Defender83 Regular ·
Hi. In 2017, I crossed these provinces with a French B license and a Chinese license without having to retake it, as did the other members of the group. However, motorcyclists had to take a driving test on a "technical course." Other vehicles underwent a very strict technical inspection—one 4x4 was rejected due to braking issues. Fuel reserves were prohibited in vehicles. (Just a small detail from my experience.) When everything is "by the book," you can travel without any risk.
"Celui qui se perd dans sa passion est moins perdu que celui qui perd sa passion." Saint-Augustin (354-430)
XA Xagga Regular ·
Since 2017, Chinese restrictions have become stricter for independent travelers. In a group of at least 3 vehicles, no problem. But solo, in Sept. 2018, driving was banned in Xinjiang and Tibet. So I’ll try Xinjiang in 2020-21 with a Uyghur friend who, just in case, could take the wheel in that province.
"En route, le mieux c'est de se perdre. Lorsqu'on s'égare, les projets font place aux surprises et c'est alors, mais alors seulement, que le voyage commence." (Nicolas Bouvier)
LA Laura24200 ·
Hi there, we're planning an Eurasia tour and China is giving us a lot of headaches. I just came across one of your comments and was hoping you could clarify a few things for us. We're traveling with our own vehicle and will be going from Mongolia to China, then India—but we're skipping Nepal and Tibet because of all the restrictions. From what I've read, though, you mentioned that we still need to hire a travel agency or a guide to cross the rest of China, or at least pay for a self-drive tour? Is that accurate? Thanks in advance for your reply

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