Hello,
A few years ago, I visited Nepal. I have wonderful memories of it. My friend (77) and I (73) would like to go back. We’re still in good shape! But let’s not exaggerate either. So, we’re looking for a relaxed trek in the mid-mountains, in touch with the local people, passing near monasteries, and with beautiful views of the peaks. And no agencies!
Can you give us some tips?
Thanks a million
Hello Mr. Alain Pont,
Among the several treks available based on your ability in Nepal, I personally recommend the "Annapurna Balcony Trek," Tamang Heritage Trek, Langtang Trek, Mardi Himal Trek, and Khopra Khayartal Lake Trek.
Which trek did you do on your previous trip?
Have a great day,
Adventure!!!
Hello,
A few years ago, I visited Nepal. I have wonderful memories of it. My friend (77) and I (73) would like to go back. We’re still in good shape! But let’s not exaggerate either. So, we’re looking for a relaxed trek in the mid-mountains, in contact with the local population, passing near monasteries, and with beautiful views of the peaks. And no agencies!
Can you help us out?
Thanks a million!
Hi there.
Here are my suggestions:
1-A trek in the Helambu region starting from Sundarijal (40 km from Kathmandu, 1-hour bus ride). Check what the agencies offer and choose the route based on the altitude and difficulty.
2- The Tamang Heritage Trail starting from Syabru Besi toward Gatlang/Tatopani, etc., over 4 or 5 days, then continue to the Langtang Valley as far as Kyanjin Gompa or toward the sacred lakes of Gosainkunda.
Example route:
https://www.nepatrek.com/trekkings/treks-langtang-gosaikunda/trek-tamang-heritage-trail/
It’s worth checking if it’s still possible to do treks without an agency or guide, as for about a year now, it supposedly hasn’t been allowed—but these rules were already put in place in the past and never really enforced in practice.
I still have a soft spot for: Pokhara-Jomsom flight and from there: by jeep to Kagbeni + on foot: the village is 1 hour away, nearby. Then: by jeep to Muktinath and explore the surrounding villages on foot. Advantage: plenty of flexibility to adjust your chosen routes. Stunning mineral landscapes (Lower Mustang!).
Plus, since you already know Nepal, it’ll definitely feel like a change of scenery.
We're not really in what you'd call trekking anymore, it seems to me...
On another note, I don’t think it’s wise or useful to take a Jeep for the Jomsom/Kagbeni route!
It’s barely a 2-hour walk with very little elevation gain (60m!). I worry that if people follow this kind of advice, the region will quickly—if it hasn’t already—become a real 4x4 circuit!
However, if you can afford it financially (the permit for Upper Mustang costs at least $500), I’d recommend a trek in Upper Mustang lasting about ten days. You enter at Kagbeni and return via Muktinath. But in that case, an agency and a guide are mandatory.
In my opinion, it’s one of the most spectacular treks in Nepal.
When I did it, I came across people—probably tired—who, as part of a group, were doing parts of the trek on horseback. This forces you to leave the alternative paths where horses can’t go and take the motorable track (built by the Chinese), where you now have to deal with quite a few Jeeps! Still, it’s better on horseback than in a Jeep, right?
Indeed, it’s not a trek, but the route has the advantage of helping you manage your efforts and energy well.
Kagbeni isn’t yet at an altitude likely to cause AMS. So, don’t ascend too quickly toward Muktinath.
Another rather interesting trek idea, provided you avoid the motorable road (which has existed for about twenty years now) and take the alternative paths (on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki). These are the paths we used to take back in the day when we did the full Annapurna Circuit from Jomsom to Pokhara entirely on foot.
Fly from Pokhara to Jomsom. On the same day of your arrival, head to Kagbeni (on foot, not by jeep)! 🤪 It takes about 2 to 2.5 hours of relaxed walking to reach Kagbeni. Stay overnight and explore the village. The next day, hike up to Muktinath, visit the temple at the edge of town (a sacred Hindu site), and the surrounding villages (Jarkhot, Ranipauwa, etc.). The day after, descend directly to Lupra and Jomsom.
Then, make your way back at your own pace from Jomsom to Marha and Tatopani (on the left bank of the Kali Gandaki).
Return by bus from Tatopani to Beni, then to Pokhara.
Jomsom - Kagbeni: on foot—why not? I’d suggested the jeep to save energy for exploring as many Tibetan villages as possible near Kagbeni, Muktinah, and of course, with the flexibility to visit others. The area is totally customizable... (without limiting yourself to the section that’s part of the Annapurna trek).
When I did it, I met people who were probably tired and, as part of a group, were doing parts of the trek on horseback. This forces you to leave the alternative trails where horses can't go and take the motorable track (built by the Chinese), where you have to pass quite a few jeeps these days! Still, it's better on horseback than in a jeep, right?
When I did this trek a few years ago, I had to rent a horse for the last two days because I had health issues. Nothing to do with AMS, though—I was just really sick. The horse didn’t take the motorable track but stayed on the trekking path along the left bank from Yara to Tetang.
It didn’t stop me from enjoying the incredible landscapes...
@Ap18
Back to the original topic, this isn’t a difficult trek despite a few short steep sections here and there.
Otherwise, as suggested, there’s the option to do shorter treks starting from Jomsom. Lower Mustang is a beautiful region, though fairly unknown since most people doing the Annapurna Circuit stop at Muktinath and take a bus to Jomsom. It’s a shame because the area is fascinating, with many monasteries (Jhong, Kagbeni, etc.), and the trail through Lupra is stunning. Unfortunately, it’s impossible to avoid the awful dusty road at the end of the route. My lungs still remember it! I have lovely memories of Marpha too.
Marfa: indeed, this village is worth it—as long as you don’t "hit" it during peak tourist season.
Yes, an amazing region! But will it stay that way once the road from China is finished?
It’s been a long time since it ended!
Back in 2014, it was already finished up to the Tibetan border north of Lo Manthang… but you’d still see very few jeeps. Since "trekking" can now be done in off-road vehicles, I can only imagine the noise and the amount of dust on the way through Upper Mustang!
Yes, I didn’t express myself clearly. The existing trail was being widened (until around 2020?), certainly for Chinese trucks—full of Chinese goods heading to Pokhara. I found it quite sad that the elders from Marfa, who didn’t go to Kathmandu for warmth in the winter, were happy about it: the increased traffic brought them extra financial interest.
Trails, jeeps... fewer horses (the preferred way to get around in the past). That’s progress, I guess.
When I did this Mardi Himal BC trek in a quick 30/11-02/12 2017 (so off-season and not on a weekend), it was quite busy, mostly with young Nepalis. More crowded than the Khopra Danda trek I’d done from 23 to 27/11. But obviously nothing like the ABC trek, which I did between Khopra Danda and Mardi Himal BC and was totally packed.
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
it’s impossible to avoid the awful dusty road at the end of the route
Oh, it is! Possible via the left bank of the Kali Gandaki. With some beautiful spots, including:
- the village of Chimang (still in its almost medieval state as of November 2017),
- the Titigaon area and its lake, with a great view of the east face of Dhaulagiri and its icefall glacier,
- the section where the Kali Gandaki is squeezed between Konjo and Ghasa (the trail descends almost to river level).
You can continue all the way to Narchyang Besi, where you can reach Narchyang Lek (a large traditional village), a possible access point to Khopra Danda (a long day’s climb off the beaten path—I only ran into one lumberjack there).
Fabrice
S'exposer à l'Etranger lointain amène à mieux connaître et comprendre sa propre Culture.
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Hi,
We’re planning to do the 4-day trek from Mestia to Ushguli without an agency. The descriptions mention that there are accommodations at each stop, but we can’t find any details about them. Has anyone got info or feedback on this route?
I'm developing a free and open-source web app for planning walking and cycling trips (and even car trips). You can create a route by clicking directly on the map to add waypoints, and it can consist of multiple stages. The app provides tools to edit the stages and the overall route, and to display useful information (distances, altitudes, and elevation changes). A relief profile can be shown as a graph for a specific stage or the entire route.
Once the route is ready, it can be exported as a GPX file, which can then be used with a GPS or a mobile navigation app.
The app is built in JavaScript and runs entirely in the web browser. It uses the Leaflet library and several OpenStreetMap-based services. Initially developed for my personal needs (I enjoy hiking and cycle touring), I’d be happy to share it with anyone who might find it useful. It’s free to use, doesn’t require an account, and the source code is available.
New to this forum, I’m planning a pretty big project for 2028.
I’m heading to Nepal to do a trek from Kathmandu all the way to Everest Base Camp (a cool 5,300 m 😄).
This trek is a bit special because even though I’ll be part of a group, I’m going solo (so far, no problem—I’m used to it). But it’s my first real trek, and it’s also a humanitarian one: once I reach base camp, I’ll stay an extra week to help clean up the waste left by tens of thousands of climbers! Since I’m originally from South America, from two countries that share the Andes, I have a deep respect for mountains—they fascinate me. So Everest… it’s kind of the trip of a lifetime!
So, a little question for those who’ve done treks to Everest before… any tips for good mental preparation (I’m already working on the physical side)?
We're planning to trek in Peru and Bolivia and would love to find some local agencies.
If you know any, could you share details on prices and, of course, the names of the agencies?
Which trek would you recommend?
Elocine
I'm heading out on a fully self-sufficient trek in Morocco (10 days) from Imilchil to Aghbalou.
Can I find screw-on gas canisters (Coleman, Primus) in Marrakech (any addresses?) or in villages between Imilchil and Aghbalou?
If not, are Butagaz canisters for camping gas (small 230g size) available?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hello, I’d like to embark on a little trip in my home country, Switzerland. I’ll start walking from La Cure, heading toward Le Noirmont first, then I’ll improvise my route—but it’ll probably follow the French border... at least as far as Lac de Joux.
I’ll decide day by day how much farther to go after that. My goal is to stay in nature as much as possible, wander around for as long as I can, and restock food in villages or towns along the way.
I’m thinking of mostly camping, but we’ll see if I end up in a hotel or another campsite depending on my route.
I’d love to reach La Chaux-de-Fonds on foot... maybe even Delémont.
The whole thing should take about a week, give or take.
I’ll be bringing my dog, and I’m preparing for this as soon as I’m ready.
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I’m not sure if what I’m planning is even doable, which is why I’m asking around.
This’ll be my first time doing something like this—wandering in nature *and* with a dog. I’m really excited for this adventure... and I need it. Thanks!
We’re really keen on ecosystems and want to hike in "natural" ancient forests—not planted woods or areas heavily degraded by human activity. Travel guides (like Lonely Planet) don’t provide much info on this. Could you point us to the most interesting spots?
Thanks in advance for your tips.
We wish you happy holidays and a fantastic 2026, full of discoveries!
Claire and Albert
Hi, this might not be the right section, but I’d like to know if it’s possible to start mountaineering with another person without necessarily hiring a guide. We’ve done quite a bit of hiking but not mountaineering—we’ll just do a half-day glacier course. After that, we were thinking of starting with La Grande Motte and the Pointe de la Traversière, which were recommended to us. Honestly, for things like roping up and knots, I’ll learn at home with lots of videos and a book.
I’d love to know if anyone has done treks in the Rwenzori Mountains and how much it costs on average, what the infrastructure is like, the landscapes, and safety in the area. Thanks so much! I’m really looking forward to your replies.
We’re leaving in 9 days for a two-week trip to Madeira, mainly to hike.
From my research, I’ve found that since last year, access to most trails—and systematically for the most popular ones—is now paid. You have to pay an access fee of 4.50 € per person per classified hike in 2026, and even 10.50 € for the most iconic hike: Pico Arieiro to Pico Ruivo. When paying, you also have to choose a day and a 30-minute time slot for your start time. Of course, this reservation is neither changeable nor refundable, even if the weather that day is terrible.
Personally, given the massive influx of tourists to the island in recent years, I don’t mind paying a fee to help maintain the trails. Similarly, setting a limit on the number of people who can hike them per day is certainly preferable to preserve this priceless heritage.
However, what’s much less fair is that in reality, most of the available spots are reserved: 1/ for Madeira residents (which is normal); 2/ for "economic operators" (meaning local tour operators). For example, if you’re a non-resident (independent tourist), no booking is possible for the Pico Arieiro hike for an early morning start before September! So, unfortunately, we’ll have to skip this hike.
It’s the same issue for Ponta de São Lourenço, the 25 Fontes, Pico Ruivo... in short, all the most popular hikes. Oh well, we’ll skip those too!
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In theory, it’s doable, but when you check the KTEL website, there aren’t any feasible schedules listed. If anyone has recently organized this with reliable, verified details, I’d really appreciate it. Thanks in advance!
Hi there,
We’re flying from Montreal to Lyon this August to go hiking in the French Alps. We’ve rented a car and will be staying at campgrounds. We’re planning to do day hikes and want to stay a few days in one spot, do a few hikes, then move on to our next camping spot. Could you share your favorite spots or any recommendations for places to spend a few days with great hikes?
A few details:
We arrive in early August and leave in early September.
We’re looking for day hikes (or shorter), moderate difficulty, with a cumulative elevation gain of no more than 1000m, and of course, beautiful scenery!
We’d prefer not to drive too much—maybe it’s best not to head too far south and deal with unnecessary heat?
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Hi there,
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I’m not planning to join an organized group—just traveling with one other person and organizing things ourselves—unless you’d recommend a local agency or guide. Finally, even though I’ll be getting maps, a topo guide, and a GPS, I’d really appreciate your top hiking recommendations.
Thanks so much for your tips!
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I’m used to hiking in the mountains, but I sometimes get vertigo, for example on ridges with drops on both sides. I wanted to check if there are any T4 or T3-T4 sections and find out if there are any very exposed passages—and if so, where—so I can plan an alternative route.
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Thanks!
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Have a great day,
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Best regards,
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Hello!
We’re spending a few days in Toraja country at the end of May. We’d love to do a day trek—taking our time—on a route that’s stunning in terms of scenery, but not a level 5 in difficulty!
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Thanks in advance
I’d like to do the Mare a Mare Sud in May over 4 days. I’ve found quite a few places to stay along the route, but I’m stuck on the start and finish.
I’ll be arriving by plane on Sunday evening and would like to start pretty early on Monday morning. Ideally, accommodation right at the trailhead (Alzu di Gallina) would be amazing, but I can’t find anything. Any tips?
Also, for the transfer from Figari Airport to Porto Vecchio or Alzu di Gallina?
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I’m traveling solo by plane to Catania in May and plan to hike the northern side of Etna, starting from Linguaglossa where I’ll arrive by bus. After that, I’d love some info on how to get up to Piano Provenzana (shuttles or hitchhiking), since it seems there’s no public transport except in the summer. Can you sleep there in a free or cheap refuge, or camp? And how far up can you go without having to hire a guide? Thanks in advance. Bernard.
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I’m heading to Morocco in August and we’ll start with a stop in Chefchaouen (we’re driving).
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We prefer wild camping and guesthouses.
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Hi there, for those who’ve been recently—is it possible to find other solo travelers in March on the island to share transport or room costs? It doesn’t seem easy to travel on a budget.
If you have any recommendations for simple lodgings or places with dorms, I’d love to hear them.
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Thanks, and have a great day!
Hi everyone!
We’re planning a 15-day road trip to Scotland this summer, specifically to explore and hike on Lewis and Harris—places we’ve never been before. We’ve visited other islands on previous road trips in Scotland (we usually go in April for a week). This would be our first time in Scotland in the summer and for 15 days. We’re looking at late August to early September.
I’m currently drafting the itinerary. We’d be crossing from Ullapool and were thinking of spending 3 nights on Harris and 4 nights on Lewis.
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Thanks!
Hi there, I’m trying to leave for 15 days very soon to São Vicente. I’m either looking to join an agency or figure things out on my own to go hiking on one of these islands or both. From what I’ve seen, it’s not easy to organize with local transport, so it gets expensive. Can I use the services of a small local agency? I’m looking for the simplest way to hike for several days. Also, how do you get from São Vicente to São Nicolau? Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Aichatou
I’ve been wanting to do this for several years, and this year’s the one. Next September, I’ll be trekking in Tusheti (Georgia), from Omalo to Shatili.
Of course, I won’t be renting a vehicle that’d just sit unused. No problem getting to Pshaveli, but from there to Omalo, it’s a dirt road (still the case?)
There must be some form of public transport since there are so many guesthouses, and not all travelers come in a 4x4.
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we’re planning a trip to Yellowstone and hoping to do a three-day backcountry hike if we get a permit.
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Hello,
I’ll be in Nepal from March 6th to 29th (we’re flying into Kathmandu via Varanasi and leaving via Delhi).
I’m a bit confused about the regulations requiring a guide.
My wife and I (we’re 63 and 64) aren’t experienced trekkers—we’re more used to walking on terrain with very moderate elevation changes. I’m looking for fairly easy hikes, possibly day trips.
Here are my questions:
- Does the Poon Hill trek from Pokhara require a guide, or is it better to go through a local agency? (I’ve seen a lot of them offering 4-day packages)
- I’d like to do a few multi-day hikes around Jomsom (Kagbeni, Mukitinath, Lupra, Marpha)... Do you need a guide for those, and can you find accommodations easily without booking in advance?
Last question—I’m really hesitant to lug around a sleeping bag or down jacket during our 6 weeks in India. Can you easily find these kinds of items at reasonable prices in Pokhara?
Thanks in advance for any tips you can share!
Yann
