Visiting northern Laos with a driver from Luang Prabang
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Translated into English.

Original post
ZI
Hi, I’d like to visit northern Laos by car with a driver from Luang Prabang. Anyone able to share their experience and give me the contact details for a private driver? Thanks for your replies!
ER Ericdu38 Regular ·
I’ve already been to Laos. I didn’t book in advance because you’ll find what you need on the spot.
ZI Ziggy34 ·
Ok, thanks for your reply
LA Larsay Globetrotter ·
Northern Laos, very mountainous, is stunning. Head to NONG KIAW. Here are my travel notes on the subject: NONG KIAW A must-do! I did it from Luang Prabang on a rented scooter. 140 km of a pretty dull road, but it’s good except for a 30 km stretch that’s quite battered by Chinese trucks working on a big dam (another one!). My advice: unless you’re doing a loop, go by bus and explore the village on foot or by bike. If you go by scooter, don’t be surprised if you don’t see any signs or kilometer markers labeled "Nong Kiaw," because the town is officially called Muang Ngoi, even though the village of Muang Ngoi shown on maps is an hour by boat north of Nong Kiaw—the markers say "M. Ngoi."

The setting in Nong Kiaw is beautiful. A small town on the Nam Ou River, surrounded by tall limestone peaks and cliffs (the highest mountain reaches 1,700 m). There are plenty of guesthouses, most on the other side of the bridge built by the Chinese in 1973. I chose the right bank to stay at the Nam Ou River Lodge (a small dirt path just south of the school, then left). Impeccable rooms at 100,000 kips with a shared balcony overlooking the river, plus a huge terrace. The owner, Mr. Mang, also runs a top-notch travel agency (just before the bridge at the corner of the main road and the one along the river), Nong Kiaw Adventure Tours, which I recommend for excursions since it’s the only locally born operator (fluent English). At the right bank corner of the bridge, Sendao Chittavaong GH is great value, with woven bamboo garden bungalows (fan only) at 80,000 kips and concrete bungalows with AC and a river-view terrace at 100,000 kips. For those with a bigger budget, on the left bank side of the bridge, the Nam Ou River Lodge has elegant overwater bungalows and a restaurant with a river-view terrace. $55 per night, but only $35 in low season. For food, Coco Bar, on the right at the entrance of town, is good but not very traditional, or Alex, traditional, on the other side of the bridge, then right in the middle of the small houses.

Nong Kiaw is a paradise for nature walks. Classic programs in the area combine boat trips, trekking with visits to Khmu villages (pronounced "kamou"), waterfalls, and caves, plus kayaking. The most popular program—a fantastic day trip—is the boat ride up to Muang Ngoi (1 hour of stunning scenery), visiting the Sop Jam weaving village, then trekking, and returning by boat or kayak (the kayak return takes about 2.5 hours). Departure at 8:30 AM, usual return at 5 PM. 370,000 kips per person, with discounts for groups. Another very popular option is the same itinerary over 2 days with an overnight stay in a guesthouse. There are also 3- and 4-day programs. Mr. Mang can arrange all of this easily. Actually, I had rented a scooter because I planned to continue along the Nam Ou to Muang Ngoi and beyond, but the road is so badly damaged that even locals don’t venture there (I tried it for 3 km—it was hell!).
Méfiez-vous de la vie, car les ratés ne vous rateront pas!
ZI Ziggy34 ·
Thanks Jacques for all these details! 😊
MO Montagnard74 Globetrotter ·
Hello! Not much detail, this is like the bible of the area! 😉 Just a quick correction: the guesthouse by the water for "those with a bigger budget" is called the Ou River House. Breakfast by the water there is absolutely amazing. Be aware, there are only 6 rooms and they’re often fully booked.

"Le véritable voyage de découverte ne consiste pas à chercher de nouveaux paysages, mais à avoir de nouveaux yeux." Marcel Proust

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