Voyage 2 semaines au Cap Vert fin décembre
by IsabelleHu
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour.
Nous arrivons à San Vincente le 28/12, vol retour le 13/01.
Mon mari et moi désirons faire de la rando sur Santa Antao, en étoile a priori à partir de deux ou trois endroits où nous logerons. J'aime nager et je préfèrerais donc dormir sur la côte la plupart du temps. Je comptais prendre le ferry vers Porto Novo dès notre arrivée pour nous rendre au premier logement. J'avais identifié Ponta do sol, mais on m'a dit que si nous logions là-bas, il faudrait pour toutes les randos (sauf celle de la côté), nous rendre d'abord à Ribeira Grande. Du coups, il vaudrait mieux dormir sur Ribeira grande (qui n'est pas très jolie d'après ce que j'ai pu lire), pour toutes les randos région Cova de Pol, Pico da Cruz, etc.
Second logement à Ribeira da Cruz pour rando zone de Maraços (cela vaut-il la peine?). Troisième logement à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal pour rando dans les montagnes à l'Ouest.
Qu'en pensez-vous? Quelles sont les plus belles régions où randonner? Les villes les plus chouettes où se poser? Merci pour vos conseils 😉
Isabelle
Bonjour,
>>J'avais identifié Ponta do sol, mais on m'a dit que si nous logions là-bas, il faudrait pour toutes >>les randos (sauf celle de la côté), nous rendre d'abord à Ribeira Grande. Du coups, il vaudrait >>mieux dormir sur Ribeira grande (qui n'est pas très jolie d'après ce que j'ai pu lire), pour toutes >>les randos région Cova de Pol, Pico da Cruz, etc.
en effet il faut repasser par Ribeira Grande...mais c'est à à peine 10 minutes en collectifs. et sincèrement, pour se "fixer" qq jours, le village de Ponta do Sol est bien plus chaleureux, intéressant et animé (vie de pêcheurs, qq bars et restos avec musique etc...) que ribeira Grande! De plus, si vous aimez vous baignez, à Ponta do Sol c'est possible depuis les rochers (bien qu'en cette période la mer soit pas mal agitée!), aps de baignade possible à Ribeira Grande. Vous pouvez sans souci faire les randos de Cova, Paul et Pico da cruz en dormatn malgré tout à PdS.
>>Second logement à Ribeira da Cruz pour rando zone de Maraços (cela vaut-il la peine?).
Vous avez trouvé un logement à Ribeira da Cruz?? Je n'en connais pas, donc je suis interessée si vous avez trouvé. Mais Ribeira da Cruz peut-être un bon point en itinérant, mais pas hyper intéressant de s'y baser qq jours....pour Maroços ou Alto Mira ou Bordeira de Norte, il vaudrait mieux être à Ribeira das PAtas (Cha de Morte). Aussi plus facile niveau transport. car quasiment aucun collectif de et vers Ribeira da Cruz. Donc vous allez payer une fortune en transport privé.
>>Logement à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal pour rando dans les montagnes à l'Ouest.
Je ne vois pas trop quelles randos vous pensez faire depuis là bas??!! Si vous êtes à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal, il n'y a grosso modo que la rando de bord de mer entre les 2, et une petite balade dans la vallée de Tarrafal. Sachez que pour aller à Tarrafal il faut compter environ 3h de route/piste depuis Porto Novo...donc on n'y va pas juste pour une nuit. et pas de route jusqu'à Monte Trigo (il faut sit marcher soit se faire emmener en bateau de pêche). A Montre Trigo il n'y a que la montée jusqu'à Norte (8h de montée) mais pas possible de revenir dans la journée. Si vous voulez privilégiez la rando en étoile, alors Tarrafal n'est pas l'endroit idéal. Par conte il y a une plage.
Autre hébergement possible: Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul. De là: rando de Figueiral de Paul, Santa isabel jusqu’au pico da cruz, Janela, Penede, la cascade de Neve etc... Voilà mon avis Marie
en effet il faut repasser par Ribeira Grande...mais c'est à à peine 10 minutes en collectifs. et sincèrement, pour se "fixer" qq jours, le village de Ponta do Sol est bien plus chaleureux, intéressant et animé (vie de pêcheurs, qq bars et restos avec musique etc...) que ribeira Grande! De plus, si vous aimez vous baignez, à Ponta do Sol c'est possible depuis les rochers (bien qu'en cette période la mer soit pas mal agitée!), aps de baignade possible à Ribeira Grande. Vous pouvez sans souci faire les randos de Cova, Paul et Pico da cruz en dormatn malgré tout à PdS.
>>Second logement à Ribeira da Cruz pour rando zone de Maraços (cela vaut-il la peine?).
Vous avez trouvé un logement à Ribeira da Cruz?? Je n'en connais pas, donc je suis interessée si vous avez trouvé. Mais Ribeira da Cruz peut-être un bon point en itinérant, mais pas hyper intéressant de s'y baser qq jours....pour Maroços ou Alto Mira ou Bordeira de Norte, il vaudrait mieux être à Ribeira das PAtas (Cha de Morte). Aussi plus facile niveau transport. car quasiment aucun collectif de et vers Ribeira da Cruz. Donc vous allez payer une fortune en transport privé.
>>Logement à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal pour rando dans les montagnes à l'Ouest.
Je ne vois pas trop quelles randos vous pensez faire depuis là bas??!! Si vous êtes à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal, il n'y a grosso modo que la rando de bord de mer entre les 2, et une petite balade dans la vallée de Tarrafal. Sachez que pour aller à Tarrafal il faut compter environ 3h de route/piste depuis Porto Novo...donc on n'y va pas juste pour une nuit. et pas de route jusqu'à Monte Trigo (il faut sit marcher soit se faire emmener en bateau de pêche). A Montre Trigo il n'y a que la montée jusqu'à Norte (8h de montée) mais pas possible de revenir dans la journée. Si vous voulez privilégiez la rando en étoile, alors Tarrafal n'est pas l'endroit idéal. Par conte il y a une plage.
Autre hébergement possible: Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul. De là: rando de Figueiral de Paul, Santa isabel jusqu’au pico da cruz, Janela, Penede, la cascade de Neve etc... Voilà mon avis Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Bonsoir Marie,
Merci pour ton message.
>>Vous avez trouvé un logement à Ribeira da Cruz?? Je n'en connais pas, donc je suis interessée si vous avez trouvé. Mais Ribeira da Cruz peut-être un bon point en itinérant, mais pas hyper intéressant de s'y baser qq jours....pour Maroços ou Alto Mira ou Bordeira de Norte, il vaudrait mieux être à Ribeira das PAtas (Cha de Morte). Aussi plus facile niveau transport. car quasiment aucun collectif de et vers Ribeira da Cruz. Donc vous allez payer une fortune en transport privé.
Non, je n'ai pas cherché de logement encore, je regarde d'abord où s'établir... :-). Ok pour Ribeira des Patas (Cha de Morte), je présume qu'il n'y a pas de piscine publique...??
>>Logement à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal pour rando dans les montagnes à l'Ouest. Je ne vois pas trop quelles randos vous pensez faire depuis là bas??!! Tope de Coroa, Morro de Campo, Campo redondo par exemple, toute cette zone entourée sur la carte au 40000, mais si c'est pas chouette, on va ailleurs... 😄
> Autre hébergement possible: Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul. De là: rando de Figueiral de Paul, Santa isabel jusqu’au pico da cruz, Janela, Penede, la cascade de Neve etc... Voilà mon avis Donc si je comprends bien, tu conseilles Cha de Morte, et soit Ponta do sol, soit Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul (que je ne trouve pas sur la carte ni sur le net... 🤪) Sinon, éventuellement d'autres endroits proches de la mer et de randos sympas? 😎 Merci! Isabelle
Merci pour ton message.
>>Vous avez trouvé un logement à Ribeira da Cruz?? Je n'en connais pas, donc je suis interessée si vous avez trouvé. Mais Ribeira da Cruz peut-être un bon point en itinérant, mais pas hyper intéressant de s'y baser qq jours....pour Maroços ou Alto Mira ou Bordeira de Norte, il vaudrait mieux être à Ribeira das PAtas (Cha de Morte). Aussi plus facile niveau transport. car quasiment aucun collectif de et vers Ribeira da Cruz. Donc vous allez payer une fortune en transport privé.
Non, je n'ai pas cherché de logement encore, je regarde d'abord où s'établir... :-). Ok pour Ribeira des Patas (Cha de Morte), je présume qu'il n'y a pas de piscine publique...??
>>Logement à Monte Trigo ou Tarrafal pour rando dans les montagnes à l'Ouest. Je ne vois pas trop quelles randos vous pensez faire depuis là bas??!! Tope de Coroa, Morro de Campo, Campo redondo par exemple, toute cette zone entourée sur la carte au 40000, mais si c'est pas chouette, on va ailleurs... 😄
> Autre hébergement possible: Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul. De là: rando de Figueiral de Paul, Santa isabel jusqu’au pico da cruz, Janela, Penede, la cascade de Neve etc... Voilà mon avis Donc si je comprends bien, tu conseilles Cha de Morte, et soit Ponta do sol, soit Vila das Pombas ou Val de Paul (que je ne trouve pas sur la carte ni sur le net... 🤪) Sinon, éventuellement d'autres endroits proches de la mer et de randos sympas? 😎 Merci! Isabelle
>>Non, je n'ai pas cherché de logement (Ribeira da Cruz) encore, je regarde d'abord où s'établir... :-).
>>Ok pour Ribeira des Patas (Cha de Morte), je présume qu'il n'y a pas de piscine publique...??
oui alors je pense qu'il n'y a pas d'hébergement à Ribeira da Cruz...en tous cas pas connu. Et de toutes façons vous y seriez très isolé.euh....concernant la question sur la piscine publique....alors non. pas de piscine publique. Vous verrez ce sont des iles très sèches et arides et même si Santo antao est une des plus verte et humide, l'eau est un denrée rare et précieuse (surtout cette année où il n'a pas plu). Donc ils ne n'amusent pas à remplir des piscines. Mais on peut faire trempette dans le réservoirs d'eau pour les cultures (quand ils sont plein). et puis il y a bien 1-2 hôtels avec piscine. Mais ce n'est (heureusement) pas la majorité.>>Tope de Coroa, Morro de Campo, Campo redondo par exemple, toute cette zone entourée sur la >>carte au 40000, mais si c'est pas chouette, on va ailleurs... 😄
Tarrafal, c'est joli pour la plage, ou comme départ ou fin de traversée en itinérant. Mais ce n'est pas un bon spot pour faire des randos à la journée. Pas possible de faire le tope de coroa depuis là directement...il faudrait reprendre un transport jusqu'à Campo Redondo. Bon si vous vous calez bien avec les aluguers (transports collectifs) qui partent à 5h30 le matin pour Porto Novo et ceux qui en reviennent dans l'après-midi....mais ça fait une grooooosse journée de marche d'aller jusqu'à cha de feijoal (2h) de faire le sommet (5h) et de revenir à la route (2h)!!! avec l'incertitude du transport.>>Donc si je comprends bien, tu conseilles Cha de Morte, et soit Ponta do sol, soit Vila das Pombas >>ou Val de Paul (que je ne trouve pas sur la carte ni sur le net... 🤪)
oui. avec une grosse préférence pour Ponta do Sol entre PdS et Vila das POmbas si c'est pour y rester qq jours. Le Val de Paul, c'est toute la vallée qui part de Vila das Pombas , là où il y a la route qui monte. Tu as la carte au 1/40000 de Santo Antao (indispensable pur faire vos randos). Si oui, alors c'est le val qui est juste à la gauche du Figueiral de Paul. D'ailleurs quand tu cherches des hebergements sur les sites de reservations tu vas souvent trouvé "Val de Paul".>>Sinon, éventuellement d'autres endroits proches de la mer et de randos sympas? 😎 ben comme point pour se fixer qq jours et randonner, ceux là me semblent le mieux. Tu peux aussi aller à Cruzinha, et faire qq randos par là bas. Mais c'est moins vivant aussi et plus éloigné (déjà que tu voulais pas à Ponta do Sol!! hihi!) Des randos sympas?? il y en a un sacré paquet! Ca va dépendre de votre niveau aussi? Lombo Branco/Santa Isabel/Penede/ Chade Pedras-Coculi/Xoxo-pico da Cruz par rabo curto/PdS-Cruzinha/Cha d'Igreja-Mocho/Lagoa-Cha de Pedras/Alto Mira etc.... Marie
oui alors je pense qu'il n'y a pas d'hébergement à Ribeira da Cruz...en tous cas pas connu. Et de toutes façons vous y seriez très isolé.euh....concernant la question sur la piscine publique....alors non. pas de piscine publique. Vous verrez ce sont des iles très sèches et arides et même si Santo antao est une des plus verte et humide, l'eau est un denrée rare et précieuse (surtout cette année où il n'a pas plu). Donc ils ne n'amusent pas à remplir des piscines. Mais on peut faire trempette dans le réservoirs d'eau pour les cultures (quand ils sont plein). et puis il y a bien 1-2 hôtels avec piscine. Mais ce n'est (heureusement) pas la majorité.>>Tope de Coroa, Morro de Campo, Campo redondo par exemple, toute cette zone entourée sur la >>carte au 40000, mais si c'est pas chouette, on va ailleurs... 😄
Tarrafal, c'est joli pour la plage, ou comme départ ou fin de traversée en itinérant. Mais ce n'est pas un bon spot pour faire des randos à la journée. Pas possible de faire le tope de coroa depuis là directement...il faudrait reprendre un transport jusqu'à Campo Redondo. Bon si vous vous calez bien avec les aluguers (transports collectifs) qui partent à 5h30 le matin pour Porto Novo et ceux qui en reviennent dans l'après-midi....mais ça fait une grooooosse journée de marche d'aller jusqu'à cha de feijoal (2h) de faire le sommet (5h) et de revenir à la route (2h)!!! avec l'incertitude du transport.>>Donc si je comprends bien, tu conseilles Cha de Morte, et soit Ponta do sol, soit Vila das Pombas >>ou Val de Paul (que je ne trouve pas sur la carte ni sur le net... 🤪)
oui. avec une grosse préférence pour Ponta do Sol entre PdS et Vila das POmbas si c'est pour y rester qq jours. Le Val de Paul, c'est toute la vallée qui part de Vila das Pombas , là où il y a la route qui monte. Tu as la carte au 1/40000 de Santo Antao (indispensable pur faire vos randos). Si oui, alors c'est le val qui est juste à la gauche du Figueiral de Paul. D'ailleurs quand tu cherches des hebergements sur les sites de reservations tu vas souvent trouvé "Val de Paul".>>Sinon, éventuellement d'autres endroits proches de la mer et de randos sympas? 😎 ben comme point pour se fixer qq jours et randonner, ceux là me semblent le mieux. Tu peux aussi aller à Cruzinha, et faire qq randos par là bas. Mais c'est moins vivant aussi et plus éloigné (déjà que tu voulais pas à Ponta do Sol!! hihi!) Des randos sympas?? il y en a un sacré paquet! Ca va dépendre de votre niveau aussi? Lombo Branco/Santa Isabel/Penede/ Chade Pedras-Coculi/Xoxo-pico da Cruz par rabo curto/PdS-Cruzinha/Cha d'Igreja-Mocho/Lagoa-Cha de Pedras/Alto Mira etc.... Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Pour de la rando sur les hauts plateaux, j'ai déjà recommandé sur VF de loger chez Dona Isabel Névés à Norte (Morrin d'Egua).
Mais 2 nuits à Tarrafal valent la peine aussi.
Salut marie,
Je m'incruste sur cette discussion car les sujets rando et points de dèparts logements sur Santo Antao m'intèressent :))))). J'ai suivi tes conseils et on a réservé les vols internes, merci bien (voir dessous)!
Bref, pas facile de choisir d'où graviter pour faire les randos. J'ai bien lu tes commentaires ci-dessus et ça m'a inspiré :) MERCI 1ère partie/base de PdS pour rando dans ces coins là 2ème partie/ avec changement éventuel de base camp/base: Vallée de Paul ou Vila das POmbas 3/ on pensait sef aire la route jusqu'à Tarrafal pour faire une pause plage et changer de paysage et y faire qq petites balades meme si certes j'ai bien compris, il n'y a pas de rando journée de là-bas
Qu'en penses-tu, conseille tu plutot la vallée coté Alto Mira? ou autre?
Ce qu'on recherche sur 6 jours: -3 points de chutes au total (si t'as une meilleuree suggestion- bienvenue!) -belles randos avec paysages variés- à ne pas louper! -difficulté mix de 3 à 6-7h par jour dénivellé mix aussi peu ou +/- 1000 ok -plaisir varié avec visites de petits villages et des petits moments de far niente pour varier et se reposer
Je suis ouverte à tes suggestions selon ton expertise et/ou meme pour une suggestion d''itinèraire..
Dernière question LOGEMENT: Bcp d'hébergements sur booking me semble chers par rapport à ce qu'on peut trouver parfois (type appart ou pension en fouillant)- est-ce qu'il y a bcp de pension/ guest house que l'on peut trouver sur pplace non rèservables via internet? > Je préfère vraiment faire vivre les locaux avec peu de moyens qui n'ont pas la chance de se publiciser sur internet mais qui valent vraiment la peine..plutot que de nourrir toujours les meme qui ont de quoi se referencer et se faire taxer par booking.
*Pour info itinéraire 15 jours de séjours, on devrait faire 2 jours Sal 1 nuit Mindhelo* avec transfert immédiat le matin vers: 6 jours sur Santo Antao 1.5 jours Sao Vicente* 4 jours Praia
* Je laisse un peu de flou sur combien de temps on consacrera a Sao Vicente car avec les jours fériés de Noel ça va dépendre des transports qu'on va trouver sur place.. (j'ai vu qu'il n'y a avait pas de ferry le 25.12)... le 26.12 ça à l'air normal
Voilà, la piplette a fini!! Merci mille fois >Marie pour tes conseils précieux car on peut pas dire que Lonely Planet sur ce coup soit très doué sur la destination...
Amélie
Je m'incruste sur cette discussion car les sujets rando et points de dèparts logements sur Santo Antao m'intèressent :))))). J'ai suivi tes conseils et on a réservé les vols internes, merci bien (voir dessous)!
Bref, pas facile de choisir d'où graviter pour faire les randos. J'ai bien lu tes commentaires ci-dessus et ça m'a inspiré :) MERCI 1ère partie/base de PdS pour rando dans ces coins là 2ème partie/ avec changement éventuel de base camp/base: Vallée de Paul ou Vila das POmbas 3/ on pensait sef aire la route jusqu'à Tarrafal pour faire une pause plage et changer de paysage et y faire qq petites balades meme si certes j'ai bien compris, il n'y a pas de rando journée de là-bas
Qu'en penses-tu, conseille tu plutot la vallée coté Alto Mira? ou autre?
Ce qu'on recherche sur 6 jours: -3 points de chutes au total (si t'as une meilleuree suggestion- bienvenue!) -belles randos avec paysages variés- à ne pas louper! -difficulté mix de 3 à 6-7h par jour dénivellé mix aussi peu ou +/- 1000 ok -plaisir varié avec visites de petits villages et des petits moments de far niente pour varier et se reposer
Je suis ouverte à tes suggestions selon ton expertise et/ou meme pour une suggestion d''itinèraire..
Dernière question LOGEMENT: Bcp d'hébergements sur booking me semble chers par rapport à ce qu'on peut trouver parfois (type appart ou pension en fouillant)- est-ce qu'il y a bcp de pension/ guest house que l'on peut trouver sur pplace non rèservables via internet? > Je préfère vraiment faire vivre les locaux avec peu de moyens qui n'ont pas la chance de se publiciser sur internet mais qui valent vraiment la peine..plutot que de nourrir toujours les meme qui ont de quoi se referencer et se faire taxer par booking.
*Pour info itinéraire 15 jours de séjours, on devrait faire 2 jours Sal 1 nuit Mindhelo* avec transfert immédiat le matin vers: 6 jours sur Santo Antao 1.5 jours Sao Vicente* 4 jours Praia
* Je laisse un peu de flou sur combien de temps on consacrera a Sao Vicente car avec les jours fériés de Noel ça va dépendre des transports qu'on va trouver sur place.. (j'ai vu qu'il n'y a avait pas de ferry le 25.12)... le 26.12 ça à l'air normal
Voilà, la piplette a fini!! Merci mille fois >Marie pour tes conseils précieux car on peut pas dire que Lonely Planet sur ce coup soit très doué sur la destination...
Amélie
Bonsoir Amélie,
Eh bien eh bien ! Que de questions !
Je vais essayer de donner qq éléments de réponses…mais je précise une fois de plus que ce ne sont que mes avis et opinions et pas forcément la « vérité vraie » ! D’autres vous donneront peut-être d’autres infos ou d’autres coups de cœurs.
-Concernant Tarrafal : il y a bien 1-2 randos à faire. Celle entre Tarrafal et Monte Trigo, et la petite vallée de Tarrafal. Perso j’aime bien comme point final de la traversée, mais pas trop y aller pour y aller. Ceci dit si vous voulez de la plage alors c’est à peu près la seule sur Santo Antao. Je dis juste que comme il faut 3h pour y aller et idem pour en revenir, ça vaut le coup pour au moins 2 nuits (voire 3). Donc, moi, je conseille Tarrafal quand on a plus que 7 jours à Santo Antao. Si tu ne passes que 6 jours sur Santo Antao, ben si tu prends 2-3 jours pour Tarrafal, il ne reste plus grand-chose pour le reste…et c’est de mon point de vue un peu dommage. Tu auras l’occasion de voir des plages à Sal et Sao Vicente. Autant profiter de la montagne et de la verdure à Santo Antao. Depuis Ribeira das Patas tu peux faire Bordeira de Norte, Forquinha/Alto Mira, Cirio, Lagedos. Mais bon, y a pas la plage ! ;O)
-Concernant le prix des logements. Je ne sais pas ce que tu appelles « cher ». Le Cap Vert n’est de toute façon pas une destination bon marché. Je dirais qu’en gamme moyenne, pension ou hôtel standard, il faut facilement compter entre 35-50 euros/chambre double. Tu peux parfois trouver à 20-25, mais c’est plus rare. Mais tu peux trouver/réserver des hébergements un peu différents sur ce site : http://www.bela-vista.net/accommodation-Santo-Antao-e.aspx Certains ayant le repas du soir inclus vu le manque d’offres en restos dans certains coins. Donc dans ce cas le prix est souvent donné par personne avec repas inclus. Concernant le fait de trouver sur place sans réserver….c’est possible, oui. Mais ça dépend un peu de la période, des endroits et de votre flexibilité (être prêt à payer plus si il n’ y a plus rien d’autres, ou dormir dans un truc un peu moins classe si pas autre chose non plus). Je vous conseille quand même d’appeler au moins de la veille pour le lendemain si vous êtes en itinérant. Vu que vous semblez vouloir cibler 3 points de chute, alors autant réserver une fois que vous aurez décidé où. Et t’es pas obligé de passer par internet et booking and Co. Tu peux trouver les téléphones ou mails ou facebook et les contacter directement.
Voilà déjà qq avis/idées/opinions Bonne soirée Marie
-Concernant Tarrafal : il y a bien 1-2 randos à faire. Celle entre Tarrafal et Monte Trigo, et la petite vallée de Tarrafal. Perso j’aime bien comme point final de la traversée, mais pas trop y aller pour y aller. Ceci dit si vous voulez de la plage alors c’est à peu près la seule sur Santo Antao. Je dis juste que comme il faut 3h pour y aller et idem pour en revenir, ça vaut le coup pour au moins 2 nuits (voire 3). Donc, moi, je conseille Tarrafal quand on a plus que 7 jours à Santo Antao. Si tu ne passes que 6 jours sur Santo Antao, ben si tu prends 2-3 jours pour Tarrafal, il ne reste plus grand-chose pour le reste…et c’est de mon point de vue un peu dommage. Tu auras l’occasion de voir des plages à Sal et Sao Vicente. Autant profiter de la montagne et de la verdure à Santo Antao. Depuis Ribeira das Patas tu peux faire Bordeira de Norte, Forquinha/Alto Mira, Cirio, Lagedos. Mais bon, y a pas la plage ! ;O)
-Concernant le prix des logements. Je ne sais pas ce que tu appelles « cher ». Le Cap Vert n’est de toute façon pas une destination bon marché. Je dirais qu’en gamme moyenne, pension ou hôtel standard, il faut facilement compter entre 35-50 euros/chambre double. Tu peux parfois trouver à 20-25, mais c’est plus rare. Mais tu peux trouver/réserver des hébergements un peu différents sur ce site : http://www.bela-vista.net/accommodation-Santo-Antao-e.aspx Certains ayant le repas du soir inclus vu le manque d’offres en restos dans certains coins. Donc dans ce cas le prix est souvent donné par personne avec repas inclus. Concernant le fait de trouver sur place sans réserver….c’est possible, oui. Mais ça dépend un peu de la période, des endroits et de votre flexibilité (être prêt à payer plus si il n’ y a plus rien d’autres, ou dormir dans un truc un peu moins classe si pas autre chose non plus). Je vous conseille quand même d’appeler au moins de la veille pour le lendemain si vous êtes en itinérant. Vu que vous semblez vouloir cibler 3 points de chute, alors autant réserver une fois que vous aurez décidé où. Et t’es pas obligé de passer par internet et booking and Co. Tu peux trouver les téléphones ou mails ou facebook et les contacter directement.
Voilà déjà qq avis/idées/opinions Bonne soirée Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
car on peut pas dire que Lonely Planet sur ce coup soit très doué sur la destination...
parce que tu as trouvé un guide Lonely Planet du Cap vert?? Je ne connais que le Petit Futé, le Bradt et le Olizane.
parce que tu as trouvé un guide Lonely Planet du Cap vert?? Je ne connais que le Petit Futé, le Bradt et le Olizane.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hello Marie,
Merci pour ton message et conseils. Pour Tarrafal, c'est un peu ma peur aussi..l'idée était de passer Noel dans un endroit perdu pour etre plus loin des touristes (et folklore, si folklore il y a mais je doute).. Je suis de ton avis! Tu auras l’occasion de voir des plages à Sal et Sao Vicente. Autant profiter de la montagne et de la verdure à Santo Antao. mais reste à convaincre chéri chéri.. ;( il veut intercaler avec des jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée (on aime pas rien faire) mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours..> DOnc selon toi, la partie extreme ouest de l'ile cela ne vaut pas la galère que c'est pour s'y rendre si c'est pour y passer 2 jours proportionnelemnt au temps qu'on a sur place (6j)? > Si t'as un conseil sur un endroit sur l'ile hors Tarrafal dans cette optique suis preneuse... (= jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours) Merci bcp pour les conseils rando et réservations, je vais regarder l'autre site. J'ai essayé d'envoyer qq mails mais on peut pas dire que ce soit les champions de la réponse- mais je suis pas étonnée et cìest meme logique.. > t'avis acheter une SIM sur place j'imagine? Effectivement c'est ce que j'ai vu 35-50 euros/chambre double. mais j'en trouve quand meme (pas partout, pour le moment à Mindhelo) à 20-25.. si c'est bien je te filerai les contacts au retour si tu veux :) T'inquiète je sais bien que c'est subjectif, comme les guides d'ailleurs, mais c'est parce que j'ai l'impression qu'on aime voyager de la meme facon que je te demande ;)
Merci bonne journée! Amélie
Merci pour ton message et conseils. Pour Tarrafal, c'est un peu ma peur aussi..l'idée était de passer Noel dans un endroit perdu pour etre plus loin des touristes (et folklore, si folklore il y a mais je doute).. Je suis de ton avis! Tu auras l’occasion de voir des plages à Sal et Sao Vicente. Autant profiter de la montagne et de la verdure à Santo Antao. mais reste à convaincre chéri chéri.. ;( il veut intercaler avec des jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée (on aime pas rien faire) mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours..> DOnc selon toi, la partie extreme ouest de l'ile cela ne vaut pas la galère que c'est pour s'y rendre si c'est pour y passer 2 jours proportionnelemnt au temps qu'on a sur place (6j)? > Si t'as un conseil sur un endroit sur l'ile hors Tarrafal dans cette optique suis preneuse... (= jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours) Merci bcp pour les conseils rando et réservations, je vais regarder l'autre site. J'ai essayé d'envoyer qq mails mais on peut pas dire que ce soit les champions de la réponse- mais je suis pas étonnée et cìest meme logique.. > t'avis acheter une SIM sur place j'imagine? Effectivement c'est ce que j'ai vu 35-50 euros/chambre double. mais j'en trouve quand meme (pas partout, pour le moment à Mindhelo) à 20-25.. si c'est bien je te filerai les contacts au retour si tu veux :) T'inquiète je sais bien que c'est subjectif, comme les guides d'ailleurs, mais c'est parce que j'ai l'impression qu'on aime voyager de la meme facon que je te demande ;)
Merci bonne journée! Amélie
Guides papoers
j'habite en Italie et j'ai trouvé un guide Italien + dans le Lonely Planet sur L'afrique de l'ouest, il y a une partie sur le CAP VERT.
J'ai payé pour télécharger seulement cette partie, si tu veux je te l'envoie en MP mais c'est en italien... :( Tu comprends?
>>Pour Tarrafal, c'est un peu ma peur aussi..l'idée était de passer Noel dans un endroit perdu >>pour etre plus loin des touristes (et folklore, si folklore il y a mais je doute)..
Bon à TArrafal il y a aussi pas mal de touristes….vu que c’est le coin isolé que tout le monde veut voir ! ;O) Pas trop trop de folklore non plus. Il faut dire que Noel est une fête plutôt « famille ». Le « folklore » et la fête c’est surtout pour nouvel an.
>>(il veut intercaler avec des jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée (on aime >>pas rien faire) mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours..
Bon c’est vrai qu’en dehors de la rando les activités sont limitées sur Santo Antao. Mais il y a la pêche. Concernant le timing, ce n’est que mon avis….mais si tu prends déjà 2 nuits (donc 3 jours) pour aller à Tarrafal, ben il ne reste plus grand-chose pour le reste…mais à vous de voir ! Chacun fait comme il aime ! Il est vrai qu’à Tarrafal on peut se baigner et plonger.
>>J'ai essayé d'envoyer qq mails mais on peut pas dire que ce soit les champions de la >>réponse- mais je suis pas étonnée et cìest meme logique..
En effet…accès à internet parfois compliqué pour eux.
> t'avis acheter une SIM sur place j'imagine?
Oui.
>>mais j'en trouve quand meme (pas partout, pour le moment à Mindhelo) à 20-25.. si c'est >>bien je te filerai les contacts au retour si tu veux :)
Oui oui, je sais qu’il y en a….mais à Mindelo, à ce prix-là, faut pas s’attendre au super truc . Si jamais moi je vais toujours au Cha de Cricket : pas cher et relativement correct et bien situé. Je deconseille le chave d’Ouro. Marie
Bon à TArrafal il y a aussi pas mal de touristes….vu que c’est le coin isolé que tout le monde veut voir ! ;O) Pas trop trop de folklore non plus. Il faut dire que Noel est une fête plutôt « famille ». Le « folklore » et la fête c’est surtout pour nouvel an.
>>(il veut intercaler avec des jours plus calmes avec qq trucs à faire dans la journée (on aime >>pas rien faire) mais sans faire forcément des rando tous les jours..
Bon c’est vrai qu’en dehors de la rando les activités sont limitées sur Santo Antao. Mais il y a la pêche. Concernant le timing, ce n’est que mon avis….mais si tu prends déjà 2 nuits (donc 3 jours) pour aller à Tarrafal, ben il ne reste plus grand-chose pour le reste…mais à vous de voir ! Chacun fait comme il aime ! Il est vrai qu’à Tarrafal on peut se baigner et plonger.
>>J'ai essayé d'envoyer qq mails mais on peut pas dire que ce soit les champions de la >>réponse- mais je suis pas étonnée et cìest meme logique..
En effet…accès à internet parfois compliqué pour eux.
> t'avis acheter une SIM sur place j'imagine?
Oui.
>>mais j'en trouve quand meme (pas partout, pour le moment à Mindhelo) à 20-25.. si c'est >>bien je te filerai les contacts au retour si tu veux :)
Oui oui, je sais qu’il y en a….mais à Mindelo, à ce prix-là, faut pas s’attendre au super truc . Si jamais moi je vais toujours au Cha de Cricket : pas cher et relativement correct et bien situé. Je deconseille le chave d’Ouro. Marie
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
merci bcp Marie pour tes réponses et conseils logment Mindhelo, on avait déjà réserver mais je vais comparer et qui sait, annuler et changer :) Merci
Tu m'as pas dit pour le guide LP, tu veux que je te l'envoie?
tu avais réservé le chave d'ouro??
Bon si tu prends les chambres plus chères au 1er étale alors ça peut aller...
Mais je deconseille les pseudo-chambres du 2eme: c'est sous les toits et il y fait une chaleur abominable sans compter les moustiques; ils ont simplement monté des parois en papier de cigarette pour faire des pseudo-chambres, et les 2 sdb communes sont vraiment limites limites. A cela s'ajoute le bruit de la route et du monde le soir. C'est ok pour y passer une brève nuit d'escale, mais pas top pour s'y poser qq jours.
Le cha de cricket est au même prix, mais beaucoup plus propres et confort (même si rudimentaire) et bien situé: un peu excentré mais pas trop loin du centre malgré tout, et pas loin de la plage.
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Hello, non non, on a réservéau Simabo's backpacker (double CVE 2,640) une nuit à l'aller, et Casa Linda Rua cocco (appart CVE 1.850 )une nuit au retour..
Ca m'a l'air pas mal et c'était pas cher ;)
Merci, je regarderai quand meme!!!
ok. Alors interessée par ton opinion sur ces 2 logements à ton retour!! Comme ça, ça peut donner des idées pour els prochaines fois!
M
Faites que le rêve dévore votre vie afin que la vie ne dévore pas votre rêve.
Yes!!!! sure :)
Super et merci pour cette conversation ,
on est 3 amis ( 2 filles , 1 gars) et on part 2 semaine en janvier
On est justement entrain de s'occuper de l'organisation et on se pose pleins de questions sur le couchage , notamment est ce quil vaudrait pas mieux prendre des duvets au cas où il n'y ai pas d'hebergement
Qu'en pensez vous ?
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Hi there,
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
I’ve been looking for a destination for a 2-week trip early next spring, and Cape Verde has been growing on me. (The flight isn’t too long, the temperatures are more than pleasant, and it’s an unknown country for me.)
The thing is, Cape Verde is pretty complicated when it comes to inter-island transfers, and I don’t want to spend my time in airports or on ferries—especially since those transfers aren’t exactly known for their reliability...
So, I’d like to limit internal flights to just 2, meaning the island I arrive on plus one other.
I’ve ruled out the all-inclusive islands: Sal and Boa Vista.
I’m torn between combining Santo Antão + São Vicente or Fogo + Santiago.
The goal of the trip is to see beautiful landscapes, go on day hikes (nothing multi-day), swim a little—though I prefer quiet spots—and enjoy 1 or 2 days in a city, but not much more than that!
In your opinion, which option would be the best, and why?
Thanks! :)
Hi,
Have you got any recent feedback from a trip back from São Tomé?
We're heading there in a few months.
One question among others: is swimming—well, snorkeling—risky there?
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Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Benin in July, and I saw there were a few recent discussions about this destination. Would you have any suggestions for nice places to stay in Cotonou that won’t break the bank, as well as in other cities (Porto-Novo, Ouidah, etc.)? Thanks sooo much for all your valuable tips!
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Hello,
We’re two senior travelers and would like to visit Cape Verde in Feb 2027.
We don’t hike but love meeting people, culture, and nature.
Which islands would you recommend, and do you know of any local agencies?
Thanks a million!
Hello,
We’re a family of 5 (2 adults and 3 kids who’ll be 2, 7, and 10 years old) planning to visit the islands of Santiago, Fogo, and Maio this summer. We’ll have 22 full days on the ground. It’s a shame (financially, logistically, and environmentally speaking!), but we’ll be taking 4 flights: a round-trip from Santiago to Fogo and another from Santiago to Maio. We’d like to position Maio toward the end of our stay since we enjoy ending our trips with a quieter beach phase.
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
For now, based on flight schedules and dates, we’re thinking of doing: 23/07: Arrival in Santiago 24/07 – 30/07: Fogo (5 full days) 30/07 – 05/08: Santiago (5 full days) 05/08 – 11/08: Maio (5 full days) 11/08 – 15/08: Santiago (3 full days) 15/08: Return to France
FOGO: Of course, we want to visit Cha das Caldeiras, where we’d like to spend 3 nights. We’d love to explore the valley and are also considering hiking the smaller Pico (the taller one seems too ambitious for us with the kids). Do you have any info on that hike? What else do you recommend doing on the other days? Where can we go for other walks? I’ve seen that it’s possible to descend from Cha das Caldeiras to Monteiros, but I’m worried it might still be too challenging. It looks amazing!! But how do we manage with our luggage? Otherwise, the north of the island intrigues me, though we’re not thrilled about São Filipe, even though we know we’ll have to spend at least one night there before returning to Santiago.
On this island, we initially thought about not renting a car, but I’m wondering if that’s a good idea for us with all the luggage. If we do rent one, is it easy to reach Cha das Caldeiras by car? Any advice is welcome!
MAIO: Here, I think renting a car will be essential for us to get around easily. We’d like to do an excursion to observe turtle nesting. I haven’t found much info on this—where and with whom should we go? Otherwise, the plan is to do some snorkeling directly from the beach, independently, since we’ll need to take turns so one adult can stay with our 2-year-old. Any spots you’d recommend?
Which towns would you suggest staying in? All options work for us—we’re fine with settling in one place or splitting our time (e.g., 3 nights in one spot and 3 nights elsewhere).
Basically, I’m open to all tips and recommendations for this little week on Maio (short walks, places to relax, beaches, etc.)!
SANTIAGO: Nothing too original, but for Santiago, we’re considering visiting Cidade Velha, Tarrafal, and Ribeira da Prata (for the black sand beach and natural pools), as well as Serra Malagueta for a hike. There must be so much more to do, especially with the time we have. What else would you recommend?
I’m struggling to figure out how to organize our time there since we’ll have 5 full days first, then 3 more. How would you do it?
Thanks,
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Hello, my wife and I are planning a trip to Cape Verde at the end of May for 20 days. We’re still unsure which islands to prioritize (they all look amazing!). Santo Antão and São Vicente seem like must-sees. Which other islands should we visit, given that we love hiking (nothing too challenging) and swimming?
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Hi everyone!
The forum has been a huge help during my moments of doubt, and since Cape Verde isn’t a destination with many discussions, I felt I had to share my trip report 🙂
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
First, the EASE: I could never validate it from my phone—I tried 50 times without success, and on the computer, it worked the first time. Then, Cabo Verde Airlines: forget online check-in. I went to the airport early to get my window seat (and in the end, the plane wasn’t full—I had three seats to myself, so I could finish my night peacefully). No in-flight entertainment for those who don’t sleep on planes.
Monday 9: Flight + arrival at Antonio’s (Oia Mindelo Guesthouse). Antonio’s apartment is up on the hill, but really, it’s only a 10-minute walk to the beach and 10 minutes to the city center (depending on where in the center). He picked me up at the airport (1000$). I continued relaxing by doing... nothing on the beach. Dinner in town at Café Mindelo: a pretty place, but otherwise meh—expensive and not necessarily good (2100$ for a beer and a fish that didn’t seem freshly caught as advertised). Tuesday 10: Antonio offered to do a tour of the island (for cheap), and we left with his other guests (a lovely English couple, 76 and 77 years old). Stops at Salamansa (I felt something special on that beach—I could’ve stayed there for an hour doing nothing), then another scenic spot, a restaurant, and Baias das Gatas (I took a quick dip, but to me, it had less charm than Salamansa). Then we crossed the island to return to São Pedro (beautiful but windy; the village looks cute). Exhausted, I went to bed early because of the ferry to Santo Antão the next day. Wednesday 11: Antonio took me to the ferry, and we’ll see each other again since he’s hosting me at his aunt’s place during Carnival. On the ferry, I had a Booking.com reservation for what I thought was in Ribeira Grande (the town), but it was actually *in* the ribeira—specifically in Manta Velha (aluguer to Cruzinha ~600$). I thought I’d fallen into a hole, but I ended up loving it—Casa Familiar Gilda. Gilda is a divine cook (dinner for 1000$—don’t eat lunch, or there won’t be room), the village has a typical rural Santo Antão vibe, the place has great energy, and you can get around easily by aluguer. Thursday 12: I left early by aluguer to Ribeira Grande (250$), then another aluguer to Ponta do Sol (100$)—a sleepy beauty at that hour—to do the Ponta do Sol-Cruzinha hike, finishing in Cha de Igreja. Departure at 8:22 AM from the cemetery in Ponta do Sol, passing through Fontainhas (those doing it the other way will have a fabulous climb at the end 😏), and let’s go! I loved this glimpse of rural life—past or present—the sea is stunning, and we were shaded most of the way (though it goes up and down, it’s manageable). The arrival at Cha de Mar is breathtaking, and Cruzinha is a charming little town (arrived at 12:30 PM). I’d brought my swimsuit after reading there was a beach, but I packed it back up—too many waves and big pebbles. I continued to Cha de Igreja (25 more minutes) after a short break (ask for the path that doesn’t go by the road). It’s adorable with its church square (you don’t see this layout much elsewhere). I might’ve stayed longer to enjoy the place, but a taxi driver asked if I wanted to return to Manta Velha (1000$), and like a fool, I said yes (it was 2:30 PM—I could’ve waited for the 4:30 PM aluguer for 100$, but oh well). But since I still had energy, I decided to see if I could find a grog distillery. I ran into a French guy arriving at Gilda’s, and we ended up talking to Rodrigo, who explained everything from A to Z about how they make grog (the simple cane juice is amazingly good—but the work is clearly tough). Friday 13: Transfer to Xoxo on Djalma’s advice 😉, where I’d booked a room at Casa Xoxo. I did the hike to Rabo Crusto... it’s tough, but I kept quiet when I saw a pregnant woman doing it with her two little ones 😄. There’s also a distillery I didn’t linger in, and I took a tea break with that wonderful landscape before heading back. I couldn’t find the path Jean-Michel had told me about (take a right at the village entrance), so I went back down to the water reservoir to turn off and take the waterfall path (anyone can point it out if needed). The bedding at Casa Xoxo was perfect, but the dinner atmosphere was less family-like. Saturday 14: No one at Casa Xoxo could tell me when the aluguer passed, so I scarfed down my breakfast and headed down a bit. I found one (not sure if he’d planned to work, but there were three of us, so he left). Arrived in Ribeira Grande, an aluguer driver told me the coastal road to Porto Novo was closed and we had to take the Corde road—but no one was leaving, so we’d have to charter... Sometimes, you just have to say it: aluguer drivers say there’s no ride just to make you pay the private price (3500$). But this time, it was true! With another French couple, we wanted to go to Tarrafal. Our driver called the Porto Novo-Tarrafal aluguer to wait for us. The Corde road is stunning—more different landscapes (thorny forest, misty peaks...). Changed aluguers in Porto Novo and headed to Tarrafal. Another world—lunar landscape on the way. Arrived in Tarrafal and relaxed. Sunday 15: Hike from Tarrafal to Monte Trigo, left at 8 AM, and I’m glad I did—I was in the shade until about 9:30 AM, then the sun got strong. Beautiful walk, arrived in Monte Trigo around 11:30 AM. The people weren’t particularly friendly, but oh well. Swam at the little beach in Monte Trigo (the water is *so* good). I waited for other French people who had “booked” a boat for the return. Came back with Javi (50 min—1000$ each), who lent us masks and snorkels for some snorkeling. Had grog with Ludo, Estelle’s husband, who was waiting at the bar, then filled my grog bottle at the *mercearia*. I admit, it’s delicious, but I don’t remember much of that evening 😇🤪. Except Javi put on a show saying he’d been robbed, had no money, and needed to pay the boat owner, etc. People paid again (apparently not me, since Ludo, Estelle, and I arrived at the restaurant after Javi’s drama). FYI, Javi does this often—my host had warned the couple renting the other room to watch out for him because he scams people for money. So Javi is 35 with hazel/special-colored eyes. But if you don’t repay the “service,” the day was still great. Monday 16: Several of us were taking the late-afternoon boat, so we chartered an aluguer (7000$) to avoid the 6 AM one—trip—boat to Mindelo. Antonio picked me up at the ferry, and boom—Carnival! I found a spot on Rua de Lisboa. My neighbor was from Santo Antão just for Carnival, spoke French, and explained that last year’s Carnival started 3 hours late because a float couldn’t fit under the power lines 😏 (like they don’t know the height by now hahaha). On Monday, it’s the teachers (nice—kind of a warm-up) and the Madingas. Once they passed my spot, I followed them along the route—I LOVED it! By midnight, they still hadn’t reached Praça Nova, and the police told them to speed up, but I loved that energy! Tuesday 17—Mardi Gras: Beach day, then Carnival! Antonio had bought me a seated ticket just in case (300$). Ended up in front of a punch stand, where I ran into two French women I’d met in Manta Velha. Two guys from Mindelo talked to us, and we did Carnival with them. And what was bound to happen, happened: a float couldn’t pass because... it was taller than the power lines 😏😏😏. The dancers kept dancing while the crowd tried to lift the cable. Finally, a guy in a tree climbed higher and used a pole to lift it... and the parade could continue 😉. Around 12:30–1:30 AM, when the concert was supposed to start, the power went out. I went home and later learned the concert started around 3 AM. Wednesday 18: I went home because I was taking the boat back to Santo Antão, heading to Casa Familiar Gilda. Walked the loop from Manta Velha. Thursday 19: Left early for Ribeira da Paul to do the loop to Sandra’s House. It’s truly breathtaking! Back at Gilda’s, I chilled. I wanted to go to Sinagoga’s natural pools, but the hike had worn me out. Friday 20: Return to Mindelo on the red company’s ferry—no comparison: way more comfortable than the blue company’s, especially for someone prone to seasickness. Beach. Exhausted, I struggled to sleep because the shop on the ground floor of my rental had a party until 3 AM (and the windows aren’t double-glazed—*hi*—but that’s common in Mindelo). Saturday 21: Ran into Estelle and Ludo by chance (the city’s small), and we arranged to share a taxi the next day since we had the same return flight. Beach (I tried Lazaretto Beach, but nope—not great—dead fish + weird smell = bad signs). So Laginhia was fine, and in the evening, a restaurant with singers, then Caravelle (the ground-floor shop didn’t bother me since I got home when they were saying goodbye 😏). Too bad—I dance salsa, bachata, kompa, zouk, but not kizomba hahaha, but it was still fun. Sunday 22: Took a taxi with Ludo and Estelle (1200$). Arrived *ages* before takeoff (no exchange office—get escudos in town if you have any left). Boom—CDG, boom—RER... home.
There you go—a super long trip report. Not sure if it’ll help, but the digital detox was amazing. These two islands are very different but so beautiful. I only got a glimpse, but they’re worth the trip. I was lucky to see Carnival (what joy in that city!) and happy the Cambodia ticket (my first idea) was way too expensive 😉
Hi,
Without booking in advance through an agency, is it possible/easy to organize luggage transfer from one night to the next between accommodations in Santo Antão?
Thanks.
Easily accessible from Sal or São Vicente, São Nicolau is the forgotten island of the Barlavento group. With two large villages, volcanoes, jagged peaks, lush valleys, and vast rocky expanses, it has nothing to envy its big sister Santo Antão. It’s slipped under travelers’ radar a bit (in January, there were probably fewer than a hundred European tourists on the whole island), and that’s just fine! Accommodations aren’t overrun by groups like in Santo Antão, and connecting with locals is even easier. But don’t come to São Nicolau for wild nightlife—it’s incredibly peaceful here, and on Sundays, it’s total silence!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
A little favorite of mine: Pensão Jardim in Ribeira Brava, the capital; Residencial Palice in Queimadas; and especially Pousada d’Anna in Estância de Brás, where the raging sea crashes against the black lava spurs.
Weather-wise, it was chilly this year but perfect for hiking. If you’re up high (like Monte Gordo), dress warmly or wait for spring! Fog gusts can ground you completely. Trails are generally less marked than in Santo Antão; if you’re wary of apps, you can find a 1:50,000 map at the small travel agency in Tarrafal.
Those who enjoy sharing experiences with other travelers over a Strela or two in the evening might feel a bit frustrated on São Nicolau, but the island’s beauty, the resilience of its farmers in extreme conditions, and the kindness of its people make it a fantastic stop for any visitor to Cape Verde!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a trip to Senegal in early July 2026 for a week with my teenage daughter.
We’ll be staying in a bungalow at Club Les Filaos.
I’d love to hear your advice, especially about visits and excursions. The hotel offers them directly, but I’m wondering if it’s better to go with their organized tours or hire local guides you’d recommend.
What do you think are the pros and cons of each option?
I’d also appreciate tips on currency exchange—where’s the best place to do it to avoid any nasty surprises?
Finally, if anyone’s stayed at this hotel recently, I’d love to hear your thoughts! I’ve read both glowing and terrible reviews, so I’d really value your firsthand experiences.
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Thanks in advance for your tips and feedback! !
Hi
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Which taxi app do you recommend for Senegal? Are there shared taxis from Dakar Airport to La Somone? If not, do you have an idea of the price for a taxi?
Thanks in advance
Hi everyone,
After a year where I’ve worked way too much and with a house under renovation, it’s become essential to take a breather. My contract ends on 01/30, and I’ll try to find a new client for early March, so overall, let’s go somewhere in February!
I thought Réunion with the full trek around the Mafate cirque for reconnecting with Nature would be perfect, but since it’s cyclone season, it wasn’t such a great idea. Then came the idea that Southeast Asia could fulfill the peace-and-beach vibe, especially Cambodia with its cultural past, but the flight ticket price and a chat with a friend made me change my mind—and boom, Cape Verde popped up, with Santo Antão for hiking and São Vicente for culture and the beach.
So I bought a ticket a week ago, and oh, what a coincidence—it’s during Carnival!
Except now, I don’t know if it’s reality or just exhaustion talking, but I feel like I’m making a mess of things.
I’ve traveled a lot without even booking the first night, but this time, I pre-booked 2 nights in Mindelo (though one of them ended up canceling itself).
But the main issue is that I arrive on Monday, 02/09 at 6 PM and leave on Sunday, 02/22 at 11 AM, and there’s a little hiccup in the logical organization—actually, several hiccups—since I don’t really have any organization right now, and that’s where I need help
Because Carnival is in full swing from 02/15 to 02/17, right in the middle of my trip, so the logic of my visit to Santo Antão isn’t clicking for me. Plus, I just checked, and there’s zero accommodation available in Mindelo from 02/15 to 02/18 😕
So I don’t know: should I skip Carnival, should I forget about planning and just wing it once I’m there, should I stay on São Vicente after Carnival (because I read Montaganrd’s trip report, and he made São Vicente sound like a rock !), or should I keep in mind the option of heading to Santiago afterward and buying a return flight to Paris from Praia?
I need help 🏴☠️
Hi everyone, thanks for your advice! I’m starting a new thread because it seems my first one about Senegal was deleted—or maybe it’s just my computer acting up again 😉. Anyway, I’ve decided to go to Benin instead. I’ll be there from January 5th to February 2nd—why count the days when you love traveling😄? I’d love all your tips on accommodations, restaurants, and itineraries. I’m basically starting from scratch to plan my trip.
Hi there,
We’re heading to Senegal for 4 weeks in February 2025.
We’ve booked a 7-day cruise on the Bou el Mogdad departing from Saint-Louis.
That’s all we’ve planned so far—we’re also thinking of exploring Casamance after the cruise.
Any ideas for things to do while traveling between Dakar and Saint-Louis? We’ll arrive in Dakar 5 days before the cruise sets off.
Thanks so much for your tips!
Edith
Hi there,
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
I’d planned to go to Benin in 2026, but given the recent events and upcoming elections, I’m thinking I’ll wait to see what happens after the elections.
Has anyone traveled to Benin recently or is planning to go soon?
Hi there,
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
I’m trying to find out the dates for the best parades at the Mindelo Carnival in 2026, but I’m having trouble figuring it out. When I search for "Mindelo Carnival 2026," I get different dates and no clear schedule. I’ve found the parade on Tuesday, February 17, 2026, and the one on Sunday, February 22, with the grotesque makeup, which seem the most interesting. On the other hand, some say the São Nicolau Carnival is more authentic than Mindelo’s. If you’ve experienced this firsthand—not just theoretically but actually been there—I’d love to hear your practical tips.
Thanks in advance!
Elisabeth
Hi,
We’re heading to Cape Verde in January. We’re scheduled to arrive in Praia on a Saturday around 11 AM.
I read somewhere that the exchange rate for Euros to Escudos is the same everywhere—110 escudos for 1 euro. Can anyone confirm this? If that’s the case, I assume there’s a currency exchange desk at the airport, and the rate isn’t too bad? So, it’s better to exchange at the airport, right? What do you think? I don’t want to use ATMs.
Otherwise, are banks in town open on Saturdays? I read they close by 3 PM?
Hi there, I’m planning a trip to Santo Antão with some hiking (for me) but not for my partner. I’d love some help figuring out if my plan is doable in terms of time and transportation:
- Day 1 – Arrival by boat from Mindelo, then aluguer to Cova (and overnight nearby)
- Day 2 – Hike to Paul / aluguer for my partner
- Day 3 – Aluguer to Ponta do Sol
- Days 4 & 5 – Ponta do Sol
- Day 6 – Hike to Cruzinha / aluguer for my partner (overnight in Cruzinha)
- Day 7 – Aluguer (or taxi) to Xoxo (overnight in Xoxo)
- Day 8 – Aluguer to Porto Novo + boat to Mindelo
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Does this plan make sense with the local transport options? For accommodations, I’d love any suggestions you might have. Thanks so much for your help!
Hello,
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
We’ve booked our tickets for July—there’ll be 4 of us, maybe 6 (all in our sixties). We’d like to visit 4 islands: Arrival in Praia on July 8th Return from São Vicente on July 29th
Between those dates, I’m not sure how to split our time across each island. We’ll definitely spend at least a week on Santo Antão. We’re planning to visit Santiago, Fogo, São Vicente, and Santo Antão. We’re looking for easy hikes, diving, sightseeing, and a little beach time (but not too much). How do you think we should divide the 3 weeks among the islands? Is 3 days in Fogo enough? Are guides essential, and can we easily find them on the spot? Should we rent a car, given we won’t just be hiking?
Thanks in advance for your advice, tips, warnings, and anything else you can share… and I’ve still got plenty more questions! Valéry
Hi,
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
I arrive in Fogo at 11 a.m. (if the ferry is on time) from the ferry departing Praia. From what I understand, the collectivos to Cha das Caldeiras leave late morning? Do you think I can leave the same day?
My question is: should I spend a night in São Filipe? I don’t want to take a taxi—it’s too expensive.
Thanks,
Patrice
Hello,
We’re a couple in our sixties and have finally decided to spend 15 days in Cape Verde from March 1 to 15, 2025, focusing exclusively on the four Leeward Islands.
We’ve planned to take the boat between these four islands and adjust our stays based on the ferry schedules. If there are any difficulties or need to adjust the route, we might take a flight instead.
Here’s our planned itinerary with the boats:
Day 1: Flight from France to Santiago Island
Day 2: Boat from Santiago Island to Brava Island
Day 3: Brava Island
Day 4: Brava Island
Day 5: Boat from Brava Island to Fogo Island
Day 6: Fogo Island
Day 7: Fogo Island
Day 8: Fogo Island
Day 9: Boat from Fogo Island to Santiago Island
Day 10: Santiago Island
Day 11: Boat from Santiago Island to Maio Island
Day 12: Maio Island
Day 13: Boat from Maio Island to Santiago Island
Day 14: Santiago Island
Day 15: Flight from Santiago Island to France.
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Based on your experiences and knowledge, could you share: - Your favorite places to visit and hikes - Accommodations that charmed you - Restaurants you enjoyed
Thanks in advance to all travelers and locals from these islands who’d like to share their favorite spots! !
Hello,
We’ve just returned (2 senior couples) from 18 days in Cape Verde (21/01 to 7/02) that we really enjoyed. The temperature was great—20° to 27°—admittedly a bit windy at times, but the friendliness of the Cape Verdeans made up for it.
Paris Orly, direct flight with Transavia (cheap if you book in advance). We landed in São Vicente, with a 12 € city transfer. We had a fantastic 2-bedroom apartment in downtown Mindelo—Av. Fernando Ferreira Fortes, "Casa So Morabeza"—for 58 € per night. The owner lives in France and communicates instantly via WhatsApp.
We spent 2 days exploring the (beautiful) city of Mindelo and its port activity, plus a private taxi tour of the island (6000 CVE for the day).
Then we took the Armas ferry (recommended company—1500 CVE) to Santo Antão.
From there, a collectivo (450 CVE per person) took us to Ribeira Grande, a central base for hikes.
We stayed in a brand-new, modern, and well-equipped 2-bedroom apartment—*Apartamentos Modernos*—for 6770 CVE per night, staying 6 nights. I highly recommend it for its location in town and proximity to *aluguers* and *collectivos* for hiking.
The hikes were stunning:
- The coastal trail from Fontainhas to Cruzinha (taxi for 1500 CVE)
- The route from Corda to Coculi (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The trail from Cova to Cidade de Pombas (taxi for 2000 CVE + 100 CVE per person for the return)
- The hike from Miradouro to Ribeira Grande (taxi for 2000 CVE)
- The coastal road from Ribeira Grande to Ponta do Sol (visit and lunch at *Mini Familiar* in the city center—excellent and affordable) for the round trip.
Ribeira Grande has plenty of restaurants, but avoid *5 de Julho*—it’s loud and slow.
We loved: *Bellcanto*, *Cantinho da Amizade*, and *Boca-Fina Churrasqueria*.
Meals with drinks cost around 800–1000 CVE.
Back to São Vicente by ferry (1500 CVE), then an airport transfer (12 €) and a flight (99 €) to Santiago’s Praia. The airport-to-city transfer was 15 €.
We stayed at *Kelly’s* in Plato, Praia, which was disappointing—not ideal for two couples—but well-located.
One day was spent visiting the massive *Suspicia* market, then a collectivo to Cidade Velha (2 x 200 CVE round trip per person). We hiked up to the fort, explored *Rua Banana*, and had lunch at *Praça do Mar* by the beach.
We rented a car for 6 days (29000 CVE) from *Slimpycar* in Praia.
On Saturday, we visited the huge *Assomada* market—don’t miss it!—then hiked to *Boa Entrada* and *Poilon*, the largest and most impressive tree we’ve ever seen.
We stayed for 2 nights (138 €) in a beautiful valley in *Picos*—a spacious, lovely house with 2 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, and a large living area, surrounded by nature and animals.
Lina, the charming neighbor, prepared dinner (8.50 €) and breakfast (4.50 €) for us.
Next, we headed to *Tarrafal*, stopping to visit the concentration camp (500 CVE)—a must-see—before arriving.
We spent 3 nights (184 €) in a fantastic house called *"Maison Familiale"*—huge, with 3 bedrooms, 2 bathrooms, 2 kitchens, 5 toilets, and a large terrace with sea views. It was absolutely stunning and very close to the beach and numerous restaurants.
We did a beautiful 3.8 km hike to the *Farol da Ponta Preta* lighthouse.
Tarrafal’s beach is lively and pleasant, with bars, restaurants, and even acrobats!
We also explored *Ribeira da Prata* to see the *Piscina Natural de Cuba* (not easy to find).
We loved discovering isolated villages like *Ponta Furna*, *Ponta Labrão*, and *Fazenda*.
For food, I recommend *Mira Mar* at *Mama’s*.
On the way back to Praia, we took the east coast route via *Calheta de São Miguel*, *Pedra Badejo*, and *Praia Baixo*—nothing extraordinary, just a rugged, wild coastline with beaches that seemed a bit tricky to access.
Our last evening in Praia was nice. The seaside esplanade was lively, and many Cape Verdeans were swimming at *Prainha* beach, which seemed very accessible and safe.
If you’d like more info—addresses, etc.—feel free to message me privately. I’ll respond.
Jacquesler.
Hi everyone,
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
I’d like to share our travel plans for March 2026 to get your valuable feedback...
- Arrival in Sao Vicente on Tuesday, March 3rd at 9:20 AM from Lisbon (EasyJet) - Direct departure the same day or the next day for Santo Antao – 3 or 4 nights on Santo Antao (depending on whether we spend the first night in Mindelo or on Santo Antao) - Return to Sao Vicente for 3 nights - Flight to Boa Vista via Sal (Cabo Verde Airlines) on Tuesday, March 10th – 5 nights on Boa Vista - Return flight on Sunday, March 15th (Boa Vista to Porto: EasyJet)
Given the various bits of info I’ve seen about the unreliability of inter-island transport, is this itinerary realistically doable without stress? Would it be better to just take a simple flight from Sao Vicente to Sal and end the trip there (from where it’s also possible to return to Europe or France)? I’m still more drawn to Boa Vista... but I’m worried that two flights in a row might be complicated, unless it’s the same plane that just makes a stopover and continues...
Also, I’m calling on the expertise of hikers for Santo Antao: I’m not a big sports enthusiast—I enjoy walking when I travel, but not distances much longer than 10 km, and nothing too difficult (especially steep climbs where I quickly run out of breath)... For the hike from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha: can you confirm that the hike is easier in the direction from Ponta do Sol to Cruzinha (less climbing)? I’ve found info that this hike is 14 km and takes about 5 hours. Do you think it’s possible to shorten it by taking a taxi or *aluguer* to Fontainhas? If so, how long would the hike be then, and how much time would it take?
For the hike from Xoxo (starting at the Bela Vista kiosk on the Cova road), I’ve found info that it’s 12 km and takes 5 hours of walking. I think it goes to Ribeira Grande. Apparently, you can shorten the hike and find *aluguers* on the road near Café Melicia... In that case, do you know how long the hike would be? Is this the hike that lets you walk along *levadas* (like in Madeira), cross banana plantations, and pass by the Cachoeira de Vinha waterfall?
Sorry for all these questions, but I can’t find a guide with hikes and difficulty levels... I think two hikes (one along the coast and one inland with terraces, *levadas*, and banana plantations) would suit our level.
On the third free day, do you think we could rent a 4x4 to explore: take the two scenic routes on the east side and maybe venture a little off the beaten path (without taking risks, of course)... Otherwise, hire a guide for the day: do you have any recommendations and an idea of the price?
One last thing: in March, is it worth (or pointless) to choose accommodation with a pool (especially on Santo Antao)? Is the pool water warm enough? What about the ocean temperature?
Thanks so much for your help, have a great day!
Hi there,
We're on a backpacking trip, traveling by public transport/motorcycle taxis. We're in Noubou, south of Salemata in Senegal, just a stone's throw from the Guinean border. Do you know if it's possible to cross the border in this area? Where do we register? Can we cross the border without an official border post and just register in the first town we come to? We have our visas for Guinea.
Hi there,
Which island would be best for a one-week solo trip at the end of November?
I’d like to explore with a local guide who can help me discover Cape Verdean culture.
It’s still just the beginning of the plan…
Thanks to anyone who’d like to share some tips!
Which hotels offer half-board on Santiago Island?
Also, I’d love some contacts for guide-taxis—I’m traveling solo and really want to discover authentic spots.
Hi there,
I’m leaving for Cape Verde at the end of the week. I’ve heard that transportation isn’t very reliable, so I’d love your advice:
- My return flight is from Sal on the night of August 13–14
- I’ll be in São Vicente until August 10
- I found an indirect flight (São Vicente–Praia–Sal) on August 9–10 and a ferry on August 10 as well
- I’m traveling alone with two kids, ages 6 and 9
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
In your opinion, which option is more reliable and comfortable?
Thanks!
Hello,
We’re planning a trip to São Vicente and Santo Antão in January.
We’re a couple (ages 51 and 57).
My husband is really into hiking. As for me, I’m not at my best right now—I’ve just recovered from a long illness and am still on medication that exhausts me and causes a lot of pain, so I won’t be able to keep up with very "physical" hikes.
That said, I still enjoy walking in nature.
We’re looking for advice on where we could stay. A place where my husband can go hiking while I take shorter walks. But also somewhere I can relax in nature, maybe go for a swim if possible, and enjoy local life—markets, music, etc.
Boat trips would be a great bonus for us.
Thanks in advance for your suggestions.
Virginie






