Bonjour à tous,
Je compte voyager un peu au Maroc et surtout assister au festival Gnaoua à Essaouira. Le reste du séjour sera consacré à la visite de Fès et Marrakech. C'est en fait une amie d'origine marocaine qui m'a donné l'idée de faire ce voyage et de l'accompagner. Il semble toutefois qu'elle n'avait pas perçu toutes les implications que cela pourrait avoir. Après avoir appris que je devrais prendre une chambre séparée partout où l'on irait, ce qui fait déjà nettement plus cher, elle me dit maintenant que nous risquons (enfin, surtout elle) de subir une forte réprobation de la population locale si l'on nous voit ensemble où que ce soit. Bref, ce qui m'apparaissait comme une expérience vraiment sympa - voyager au Maroc avec quelqu'un qui connaît bien le pays, sa langue et ses coutumes - tourne au cauchemar avant même d'avoir commencé, et il est trop tard pour annuler sans perdre beaucoup d'argent. Est-ce exagéré ?
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
Quoi te dire ? Rien d'autre que te dire que c'est vrai ! Vous ne pourrez pas partager la même chambre, puisque vous n'êtes pas mariés et qu'elle est censée d'être musulmane... C'est ainsi !
Qu'on vous verra ensemble dans des régions où elle n'a pas d'attache familial ou amicale, je ne vois pas le problème sauf si elle est très typée (et encore..), a-t-elle la nationalité marocaine ?
LILI
Il n'y a personne qui soit née sous une mauvaise étoile, il n'y a que des gens qui ne savent pas lire le ciel. (Dalaï Lama)
mais rien ni personne ne vient à bout de ceux qui défendent une cause juste... (Mano Dayak)
elle me dit maintenant que nous risquons (enfin, surtout elle) de subir une forte réprobation de la population locale si l'on nous voit ensemble où que ce soit.
Tout dépend de ce que l'on appelle "ensemble". Ici même les couples mariés font preuve de beaucoup de discrétion et de retenue dans la rue. Aux terrasses des restaurants, en général, personne ne vous demandera votre acte de mariage (les hôtels y sont obligés ce qui est différent).
Quant aux endroits où elle a de la famille... le plus simple serait sans doute, si elle le "sent" de se faire inviter par la famille, bien entendu en chambre séparée, ce qui ferait taire les ragots.
Mais sinon, en général, oui, la vie d'un couple mixte non marié n'est pas super simple en dehors des très grandes villes.
Tout dépend de ce que l'on appelle "ensemble". Ici même les couples mariés font preuve de beaucoup de discrétion et de retenue dans la rue. Aux terrasses des restaurants, en général, personne ne vous demandera votre acte de mariage (les hôtels y sont obligés ce qui est différent).
Quant aux endroits où elle a de la famille... le plus simple serait sans doute, si elle le "sent" de se faire inviter par la famille, bien entendu en chambre séparée, ce qui ferait taire les ragots.
Mais sinon, en général, oui, la vie d'un couple mixte non marié n'est pas super simple en dehors des très grandes villes.
Oui évidemment, s'agissant d'une simple amie, je n'ai pas l'intention de lui faire des câlins en public 🙂
Nous ne comptons pas nous rendre ensemble dans sa famille, elle va y aller seule par la suite et c'est dans une tout autre région (près de la frontière algérienne).
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
Bonjour,
J'ai pas mal voyagé au maroc, avec la femme marocaine qui est devenue, après, mon épouse.
Pas dans les grandes villes du nord, mais dans le sud!
En camping, une fois sur deux, on me demandait l'acte de mariage, en hotel, il m'est arrivé que l'on me demande rien!
Vous pourrez aussi négocier, le prix "des chambres"
Les campings communaux, m'envoyaient das les campings privés, (beaucoup louent des chambres)
Il semble que dans les hotels isolés a l'èxterieur des aglomérations, ça passe mieux!
En fait , cela dépends si l'hotel est controlé ou non?
Sinon, dans la rue ou ailleurs, il n'y a pas de problèmes particuliers, surtout dans les villes touristiques, les couples mixtes sont lègions.
Ce sera un peu plus lourd a gérer, mais , il ne faut pas annuler, vous allez vivre une petite aventure.
Tenez nous au courant
Cordialement
patrick
marche à l'étoile meme si elle est trop haute
(Alexandra David- Neel)
voyager n'est pas arrivé mais parcourir le chemin(stevenson)
Merci Patrick, cela me remonte un peu le moral même si nous n'allons pas changer nos plans de logement pour autant, du moins dans la phase Essaouira. C'était plutôt le reste qui m'inquiétait. J'ai l'habitude de dormir seul donc...
Je voudrais surtout m'assurer qu'on ne va pas être insultés ou qu'on ne va pas lui faire la morale à tout instant pendant ce festival où l'on se rend tout de même pour prendre du bon temps...
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
je suis également dans le meme cas que Petitalia, et comme lui jamais inquiété de me promener avec ma femme marocaine
jamais je n'es eu a fournir quoi que ce soit a la police, la seule contrainte sera comme dit précédemment la présentation de l'acte de mariage pour la reservation d'une chambre d'hotel....sinon pas de problème, tu ne sera pas inquiété dans la rue ou lieux publics
Ca ne s'annonce pas si mal que ça finalement, et tant mieux ! Peut-être bien qu'on a un peu noirci le tableau du côté de mon amie pour la "contrôler" ?
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
Bonsoir,
Si quelqu'un se fait insulter dans la rue ce sera sûrement elle et non pas vous.
Mais il faut quand même noter que personne ne peut savoir que vous n'êtes pas mariés les gens dans la rue ne peuvent pas deviner.
Si la police cherche à vous embêter ce qui est peu probable il faut défendre votre amie, prendre un ton indigné et surtout ne rien donner vous ne risquez rien.
A l'hôtel effectivement vous devrez prendre deux chambres sauf peut être dans certains hôtels plus chers.
Bonsoir,
Si quelqu'un se fait insulter dans la rue ce sera sûrement elle et non pas vous.
Mais il faut quand même noter que personne ne peut savoir que vous n'êtes pas mariés les gens dans la rue ne peuvent pas deviner.
Si la police cherche à vous embêter ce qui est peu probable il faut défendre votre amie, prendre un ton indigné et surtout ne rien donner vous ne risquez rien.
A l'hôtel effectivement vous devrez prendre deux chambres sauf peut être dans certains hôtels plus chers.
Ce n'est pas parce que moi je ne me fais pas insulter que je vais passer un meilleur moment que mon amie (même si je ne comprends pas ce qui se dit) !!!
Enfin bon je crois que ça ne se passera pas trop mal dans l'ensemble, et c'est l'essentiel.
Pour les chambres c'est déjà réglé... On n'est même pas dans le même hôtel mais les deux établissements sont tout proches.
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
Pas de parano, il n'est pas interdit au Maroc qu'un homme accompagne une femme. Personne dans la rue ne vous posera de question.
Pour l’hôtel il vaut mieux respecter la loi.
Je suis marié avec une Marocaine, musulmane, je suis Français catholique et jamais personne en dix ans ne nous a poser de problème.
Bon voyage...Keep cool.
Sumac86.
heu..français catholique, mais forcement converti à l'islam
pour constituer un dossier de mariage d'un chrétien à une musulmane, il faut joindre un certificat de conversion du future mari à l'islam .. un simple formalité avec un prénom de circonstance, en prime !
Camus, l'écrivant, peut se reverser pour devenir Sumac, une épice turc, par exemple
Eh bien finalement il semble que le voyage prend une toute autre tournure et que je serai sans guide la plus grande partie du temps.
L'amie en question fait venir un neveu de Casa pour l'accompagner sur le festival et je devrai donc me débrouiller seul, mais je suppose que j'y survivrai 🙂
On a deux vies. La deuxième commence le jour où on réalise qu'on en a juste une.
Bonjour.
Je suis français et je vis au Maroc depuis plus de 5 ans. Je dois te donner quelques précisions sur tes interrogations.
Il faut savoir qu'au Maroc un(e) marocain(e) qui a la double nationalité est considéré comme un marocain car il ne peut perdre sa nationalité. Je suis marié à une marocaine et nous voyageons beaucoup à travers le pays. C'est vrai que dans les hôtels il faut prouver le mariage pour partager la même chambre. Par contre, en dehors de cela jamais nous n'avons été confrontés à quelque problème que ce soit. Donc en respectant les usages, tout devrait bien se passer.
A priori tu sembles remplir toutes les conditions pour que vous passiez un excellent séjour.
Tiens-nous informé.
Erik
Nous n'héritons pas de la terre de nos ancêtres, nous l'empruntons à nos enfants - Antoine de St-Exupéry
ils veulent tous te marier ?
Si il y a une autre personne avec vous ce sera mieux !!! pour que vous ne vous posiez pas de question sur le qu' en dira t on !
JE VOUDRAIS AVOOR DS CONSEIL PAR DES PERSONNE AYNAT DEJA FAIT LA TRAVERSER TANGER SETE ALLER RETOUR QUELLE EST LA MEILLEUR COMPAGNIE POUR LE MOI D4AVRIL MERCI…
Début 2017 nous partons au maroc pour la sixième fois. voila 5 ans nous avons fait la connaissance d'une famille marocaine et nous avons vu leur petite fille…
J'habite au Maroc et j'ai pris cet été 2013 le ferry Tanger Med - Algeciras avec la compagnie Frs. Mauvaise pioche et je voulais partager avec vous mon…
Je pars avec royal air maroc fin juin entre paris et ouagadougou (burkina faso) avec une escale de 9h a casablanca que pensez vous de cette compagnie? avez…
Nous avons besoin d'emmener notre voiture au Maroc, quelles compagnies Ferry pouvez vous nous conseiller? Merci de bien vouloir partager vos expériences.…
Hello,
In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse.
We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options.
Thanks in advance!
This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.
After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.
My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.
That’s a lot of cities.
Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...
So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.
If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)
Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉
Hello,
I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.
There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.
I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...
I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...
Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...
Hello,
I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026.
I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application:
- Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip?
- Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room?
- Is it checked during inspections?
- Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa?
- If so, does it need to be paid in advance?
I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency.
If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!
Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling.
We’d organize the journey together, of course.
Thanks for your feedback!
Safe travels to all,
Dom, Dijon, 64 years old
I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.
I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).
I’ll be getting around by public transport.
I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.
If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.
I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.
Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.
A few questions:
1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!
2) What documents are required for the car?
3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊
Hi there,
I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026.
In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.
I’m reaching out to gather your thoughts on an itinerary (10 days... or more?) I’d like to do at the beginning of June 🙂.
Just so you know, I’m planning to do this trip solo (25 years old), using only public transport and just a backpack. I’ve already been to Marrakech and climbed Mount Toubkal two years ago...
I’ll be arriving in Tangier.
Day 1-2: Explore the city center, hike around Cap Spartel...
Day 3: Stop in Tetouan
Day 4-5-6: Chefchaouen and a day hike in the Rif Mountains
Day 6-7: Discover the city of Fes (I’ve heard so many great things!!)
Day 8: Stop in Meknes and possibly visit the historic site of Volubilis
Day 9-10: Rabat (I’ve heard mixed things... some good, some bad)
After that, I have the choice of heading back to Tangier for my return flight... or going down to Agadir (also a possible return flight) and extending my trip by 5 days :)
From what I can tell, everything is well connected by bus (CTM) or train (ONCF).
Another question: Is the vibe in Moroccan youth hostels for meeting people the same as what you’d find in Western Europe?
Thanks in advance for your replies and your kindness! 😊
Tickets for entry to Majorelle Garden are only issued online via an official site
(though there are fraudulent sites out there). On the official site, they ask for legitimate info
(name, nationality, etc.). What made me go "hmm" was the request for both an email address
AND a password (with confirmation). Is this normal?
Thanks for your replies.
Hi there, a group of girlfriends and I are heading to Tunisia. We’d love to know how much cash we should bring for 6 days, considering everything’s already paid for at the hotel. Thanks for your tips!
I’m finalizing the loop I’d like to do in May over 13 days, starting and ending in Essaouira.
We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary:
From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure)
Arrival and departure: Essaouira
Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest
Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities
Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering?
Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac
Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel
Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac
Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep
Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac
Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac
Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest
Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay
Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac
Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight)
Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online
We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide?
👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.)
🍽️ Restaurants / meals
We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal.
👉 Any thoughts?
👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.)
For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal
Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊
🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood
We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street).
👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍
Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is...
My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music.
Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians?
We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley.
If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening
Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada
Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon
Day 6: Luxor
Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon
Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada
Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van.
Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!
Hi everyone, just back from the 8-day Marrakech-Merzouga loop by car, and I’d love to share my feedback in case it helps some of you. Big thanks to all the forum members who kindly answered my questions!
Trip from Friday the 20th to Saturday the 28th, flying out of Marseille with Ryanair
- Landed late around 8 PM local time, exchanged some currency, and the rental agency (Magdaz Car, which I highly recommend) delivered the car straight to the airport with some great route tips (don’t blindly trust Maps.me). The night drive was a bit intense—lots of people out and about due to Ramadan. Stayed at Riad Midhou (really nice) on the outskirts of the city, which made it easy to hit the road the next morning.
- Day 1: Marrakech to Skoura. The drive was smooth, roads are great, but watch out for roundabout priority—it’s different from France. Beautiful route. Quick stop in Ouarzazate for lunch, Ait Benhaddou for the view (stunning), and the Fint Oasis (meh...). Spent the night at Taloute Ecolodge in Skoura, overlooking the palm grove (super cozy).
- Day 2: Skoura to Todgha Gorges via the Valley of Roses and Dades Gorges.
Adventure-packed day! We crossed the Valley of Roses (pretty, but not as amazing as I’d hoped) and took a "shortcut" recommended by the *Routard* guide to reach the Dades Gorges without backtracking. After asking locals, they said, "It’s doable." Turns out it was a narrow, rocky cliffside track—no way to turn around! A stressful moment, with a nice scratch on the bumper and a good sweat. Fine in an SUV or 4x4, but not in a Logan... Then the Dades Gorges (nice) and a detour through the north to reach Todgha from above. Gorgeous mountain road and a quick stop on some snow patches—touching African snow! Spent the night at *Les Gorges de Todgha*—great place, except for the bathroom. The Todgha Gorges themselves are stunning!
Day 3: Todgha to Merzouga. Beautiful drive, and the view of the erg (sand dunes) on arrival is breathtaking! Totally worth the trip. Explored the desert and stayed at *Café du Sud* hotel just outside Merzouga—absolutely gorgeous.
Day 4: Merzouga. Desert exploration and chilling by the hotel pool (with a bonus sunburn). Lunch in Merzouga—I recommend *Dakar*—their lemon tajine was amazing. Spent the night in the hotel’s luxury camp, including a camel ride. The camp was beautiful, but I was disappointed we weren’t deeper in the desert given the price (100 € per person, including dinner, breakfast, and camel ride).
Day 5: Merzouga to Tamnougalt. Gorgeous route. First fine (a supposed stop sign...) but the officer was super nice—only 150 MAD. Stayed at *Kasbah Maktob*, right in the middle of ruins—really unique and beautiful!
Day 6: Tamnougalt to Marrakech. Another beautiful drive, and a second fine (minor speeding), same amount. Crossed a windy mountain pass during a big storm—traffic was blocked in the opposite direction (not sure why), causing massive jams for those coming from Marrakech. A few downed cables, but nothing serious. Arriving in Marrakech was tricky—hard to find the rental agency, and the traffic was intense (watch out for GPS trying to send you through the medina). Ask the rental company to meet you somewhere quiet. They didn’t even notice the damaged bumper... Stayed at *Riad Zifamo* in the heart of the medina. Big change of pace—so many people and so much hustle!
Day 7: Marrakech. Lots of wandering through the souk and a quick trip to Gueliz (not essential). A few tips for the medina: watch out for scooters weaving too fast, always negotiate prices (aim for at least 1/3 off what they ask, unless it’s a small amount), don’t buy spices—more expensive than in France! Head to the *Carrefour Market* in Gueliz for better prices. In the end, not many truly unique items—you’ll find more or less the same things everywhere.
Day 8: Early morning flight. We’d booked a car to the airport from the riad, but a taxi would’ve been fine—plenty available even at 7 AM. Security wasn’t an issue (we had lighters and liquids over 100 ml).
A few extra notes: Pleasantly surprised by the road quality—just a few potholes here and there, but overall very drivable. Watch out for the police—they’re everywhere! The car cost me 30 € per day (with the *Routard* discount) and about 90 € in gas. No safety concerns, no harassment, and no stomach issues, despite the ice in Marrakech. Breakfasts at the hotels were usually hearty—take advantage! The timing (end of February) was perfect—pleasant daytime temps and cool nights. Since it was Ramadan, nothing unusual to report, except it was hard to find food outside Marrakech at lunchtime.
If I did it again, Merzouga is a must, but I’d spend a night in a real desert bivouac, deeper in the dunes. My stops (no more than 300 km a day) were well-paced, and with so few cars on the road, it wasn’t tiring—even though I’m not usually a fan of driving...
Happy to answer any questions!
