sorry for the accents, I’m in Dubai right now.
I just got back from India after a short 10-day trip to the Golden Triangle (Delhi-Jaipur-Agra).
I noticed a lot of hippie-style Anglo-Saxon tourism. Sure, there’s the change of scenery, the temples, the Taj Mahal, and the low cost of living,
but personally, all I saw was:
misery, filth, chaotic traffic, non-stop honking, diarrhea despite eating at restaurants recommended in the *Routard* and *Lonely Planet* guides, noise, lots of homeless people, delayed trains with uncomfortable first-class carriages, pushy vendors, rickshaw drivers, and beggars, humid heat, dust, nothing worth bringing back, no sidewalks so you’re constantly on edge, questionable hygiene in hotels and restaurants, and locals who treat visitors like cash cows.
So my question:
What do people really love about India for those who go multiple times, especially on the same circuit?
Personally, I think it’s just the fact that you can spend without worrying about your budget, and that’s what attracts the French during this period of low purchasing power.
actually, you just seem put off by the tourists you met there
I only know South India—I don’t know if “love” is the word, but being called out, amazed, shaken up in your usual ways—that’s really what makes traveling in India worthwhile. The history, the art—that can also keep the interest going, right? There’s still plenty to explore.
I think you’re just having a little slump 😉😉😉
Why do people love India? You’d need a psychoanalysis to answer that properly… I’m only half-joking. 😉
Why didn’t you like India? The reasons you give show you just didn’t click with the people, their way of life, their qualities (and their flaws). You’re totally entitled to feel that way. But the deeper reasons why you didn’t enjoy your trip are just as hard to pin down as answering your question.
Part of the answer (just part of it) can be found in the excellent book "Crazy About India."
A sense of freedom: thanks to the exchange rate and cost of living, of course, but also because once you’re on Indian soil, there’s barely any control. Transportation, accommodation, and food options are endless and varied. Hardly any aggression toward travelers—unlike Indians, who are "trapped" in their groups (caste, family, social circle, etc.), we’re "untouchable" in the opposite way. When traveling, you’re (partly) freed from French social constraints.
The feeling of traveling through both space and time.
As you overcome challenges and get used to Indian society, you get the impression of winning small victories over yourself every day.
Discovering other customs, religions, or philosophies helps you step back and put your own into perspective. And after a few years, you realize that beneath the veneer of a different culture, people are the same from Brest to Kanyakumari (they share the same core values).
In many places, an art and joy of living that makes you want to share it (even if most Indians have to spend a lot of energy just to earn enough to live—or even survive).
Etc., etc.
Normally, your question should spark some reactions. 😉
about India, I saw the same things—the poverty, the dirt, the beggars, the rickshaws that won’t leave you alone, the pollution... I had an upset stomach, even spent two days and two nights in two different hospitals (not for me, though...), ran into shady people, took trains that were 3 or 4 hours late, slept in sketchy rooms where the lazy fan just stirred hot, humid air, the mosquitoes, the insane traffic, the horns that drilled into my eardrums... guys tried to scam me out of a few dozen rupees, push stuff on me I neither needed nor wanted... I saw tourists who had zero respect for the Indian way of life, zero respect for the culture or religion, acting like they owned the place... people in shorts trying to get into temples and yelling when they weren’t allowed in... and even me, dressed "decently," sometimes couldn’t enter certain temples either...
but...
but none of that stopped me from being fascinated by this country, from really falling in love with it. And while I kept my distance and maintained my Western perspective, I genuinely loved this trip. It changed me. Because India *is* that: it provokes extreme reactions. There’s no "meh" in India, no half-measures. It’s a massive country, so full of contrasts... the south, the north, Rajasthan, West Bengal, Tamil Nadu, or Goa... Rameswaram or Bangalore... the feeling of having seen multiple countries in one...
and the struggles fade from memory (only coming up now and then with a smile...) to make room for the amazing memories... those fleeting encounters, the landscapes, those moments where you get to live a little differently... I’ve rarely felt as free as I did during those few months of travel. And that freedom wasn’t just about the cost of living (seriously, who cares about purchasing power in France when you’re in the Thar Desert, facing the Taj Mahal, on the ghats of Varanasi, or on the backwaters of Kerala...). It was so much more about the novelty surrounding me, even when it was tough... freedom comes at a cost...
if your experience was negative, I genuinely appreciate you sharing it... it’s part of the picture. For the travel experience to be complete, there’s room for everyone! Each person adds their own touch, their own color...
and most of all, give yourself a little chance to change your mind... don’t decide that India will never offer you anything more than poverty and pollution...
Good evening,
I’d say you can feel both a strong attraction and a strong repulsion.
After returning, I think it takes a while to figure out which one wins out.
At first, you only remember the harsh aspects of this country of extremes—poverty, dirt, suffocating smells, overcrowding, noise—and then, little by little, those memories fade, and other, completely opposite sensations come back: different scents like fragrant incense, jasmine, or the beauty of temples and certain architecture that you might not have noticed clearly at first. The breathtaking landscapes stretching as far as the eye can see, the deserts, the silence, and the powerful presence of nature (animals or flora).
What I loved was the energy of the Indian people, their will to survive, and a certain optimism despite everything. The perpetual surprise in the streets, where something is always happening. The incredible presence of spirituality too.
If you’ve just come back and are readjusting to our easier ways of life, it’s normal to feel these negative sensations. In a few months, you might even want to go back—or maybe not—but for now, you’re still too "in the moment."
What’s certain is that India is a country that *shakes you up*...
I’ve been going to India since 1975, and now I spend 3 months there every year!
I love India for all the things you’ve mentioned that are so different from Western countries... It’s as simple as that!
Have you noticed the beautiful smiles of Indian children, even though they’re so poor?
They smile anyway!
Hi,
I got back from India a few days ago. At first, especially in the beginning, I had the same impression as you—dirt, noise, dust. So much so that I considered cutting my trip short. In the end, I didn’t. It’s true that I saw some amazing things: beautiful landscapes, stunning temples, and lovely people.
I loved: Kerala and the backwaters, Hampi, Pondicherry, Mumbai, and the little train to Ooty. I hated: Madurai, Thanjavur, and Chennai.
As for the people, contrary to other comments, I found them sad and fatalistic. The kids smile like kids everywhere, but most of them are forced to work. Honestly, I don’t think they’re happy. It’s a very unjust country, where you see no signs of progress or development—no new roads being built, no new infrastructure. Everything feels old, like nothing has been done in 30 years. And yet, we hear about the "Indian miracle"—I didn’t see it.
I still have good memories from the trip, and I don’t regret going, but I’m not sure I’d want to go back.
mooiiii
Well, that’s exactly why I travel: to feel out of place, see how others live, and realize how lucky we are to have enough to live on—unlike those poor people who harass us. It’s true that in the end, it’s annoying that everyone harasses us, but hey, it’s like "rich" is written on our foreheads... As agoa said, those poor kids with their beautiful smiles—they might be poorer in money, but they’re richer inside. I just got back, and I mostly saw French tourists. I think dressing *baba cool* is more about blending in with the locals because wearing shorts, a camera around your neck, and tank tops for girls—you *will* get harassed more! Also, I noticed (maybe it’s a coincidence) that if I didn’t have a bag and wore a Punjabi, I got harassed way less (almost not at all).
I love the people—they’re really nice and welcoming, not aggressive. I find the driving hilarious, honestly! You *do* risk your life crossing the road, but drivers are so used to avoiding pedestrians and everything else on their path that you just have to relax—it’s *us* who aren’t used to it!
The beauty of the Taj Mahal almost made me cry! Unfortunately, I didn’t make it to Rajasthan.
As for hotels, if you pay French prices—like 40 € a night—you’ll find them very comfortable, even luxurious! If you pay cheap, well, you get what you pay for!
But I think you didn’t enjoy it because of the heat. I just got back from Delhi too—we actually went to Kerala, and it was much less oppressive. On the way back to Delhi, I thought I’d stop in Jaipur before heading home, but once I got to Delhi, I started getting tired of the harassment. I was exhausted, and I think it was because of the heat. When I got back to France, I regretted not staying a little longer!
we don’t see any sign of progress or development—no new roads being built, no new infrastructure. Everything’s old, and it feels like nothing’s been done in 30 years, even though we hear about the "Indian miracle." I sure didn’t see it.
The reasons you didn’t like India are actually right there in your question: time. You can’t appreciate this country on a 10-day itinerary! On my first trip, it took me about a week just to acclimate, and on top of that, I don’t think you did the best of Rajasthan—you missed Jaisalmer, Udaipur... cities that are human-scale and truly charming. As for accommodation, if you’d been willing to pay what you’d pay in France, you’d have gotten high-end places with people looking after you like royalty ;). Like I always say, a trip to India takes preparation, study—you’ve got to love the history of civilizations and be ready for a journey that won’t always be a walk in the park. You don’t just end up here by flipping through a catalog between Izmir and Majorca, haha!
“Poverty,” “so many homeless people,” “pushy beggars”: India has one of the poorest populations in the world. Weren’t you aware? Hard to ignore, though…
I get that it can feel uncomfortable at first, that you might feel like a voyeur. On your first day in India, you feel like a spectator, and what you see isn’t a show at all.
But once you move past that stage, the real discovery begins—and what you take away has nothing to do with the degrading list you’ve made. Cultures, a history, ways of life, and systems of thought that are thousands of years old, with extreme sophistication and rare refinement. Friendly, cheerful people. A breathtaking cultural and architectural heritage. Stunning landscapes. An unforgettable experience of “the other.” How can anyone stay indifferent to all that? Unless you arrive loaded with prejudices and ethnocentrism.
India doesn’t give up its beauty and grandeur without effort—it has to be earned. Discovering it requires wanting to understand what isn’t obvious at first glance.
You’re entitled not to like it and to prefer Club Med-style resorts with sterile bungalows, but please, don’t discredit an entire country and nation that you clearly don’t understand and haven’t even tried to.
NO, the locals don’t see “visitors as cash cows.” Some, whether in need or not, take advantage of tourists’ money—it happens everywhere, more or less visibly. And if we have enough money to travel, which is a privilege you don’t seem to appreciate, we have to accept that. It’s a small price to pay for our freedom and privileges.
Otherwise, the vast majority of people in the country just live their lives, like you and me in France, and couldn’t care less about tourists. Here, like anywhere else, get this into your head: as a tourist, you’re not the center of the world or everyone’s attention. Thank goodness!
Not content with badmouthing the country and its people, you’re also venting your anger at Western tourists who come and go. If you really think we love India because we can “spend without counting,” then you’ve missed the point entirely.
Seriously, what are you even doing on this forum? Forget about India, Indians, and everyone like me who’s interested in the country, its people, and their cultures—they’ll be grateful!
“Just as we care for the members of our body, why not care for all people as parts of humanity?” (His Holiness the Dalai Lama).
Thanks! 😎 Finally, you saved me some ink in this eternal "pros and cons of India" debate.
As long as this forum exists, there will always be people who come to "complain" about this country, but that’s just how it is—everyone has their own perspective on things...
It might even be a good thing: India will never be overrun by tourists as long as there are other "fun" destinations (Club Med and the like, as you said).
You can understand the culture shock someone feels when they arrive for the first time—we’ve all experienced it to some degree—but a short 10-day trip, maybe on a Goa beach... 😎 Otherwise, it’s pretty superficial.
At least it gives us a chance to talk about it 😉. And those who love it don’t keep count.
Isn’t it a bit too easy to say that if you don’t like India, it’s because you prefer Club Med? 😅
Personally, I’ve never been to Club Med. I travel once or twice a year, have been doing so for 15 years, mostly as a backpacker, and mainly in Asia. During my trip to India three years ago—specifically in the south—I came back saying "never again." My husband, on the other hand, loved it… even though we took the same trip.
It took me ages to even consider going back, but I’m finally ready. It’s not on the agenda this year, but three years later, I can return. This time, it’ll probably be Rajasthan for three weeks, taking my time to "soak it all in," even if it means not seeing everything… and maybe going back again.
Yes, you can come back from India feeling overwhelmed, depressed, outraged, or even sickened—without being a Club Med fan or anything like that… and even if you were, so what? Everyone deserves happiness ;) It’s crazy how travel doesn’t always make people more tolerant… 😜
But now I understand why people say you either love India or hate it, and for me, it was a fine line.
It’s not the most beautiful country I’ve visited, it’s not the cleanest (far from it), and it’s not where the weather was best, etc....
Yet it’ll probably be the country I appreciated the most and the one that left the biggest mark on me.
Why?
The Indians in general.
I’ve never talked to so many locals in the countries I’ve visited. I’ve never had so many genuine conversations with people from a "poor" country I was traveling through—so many opportunities to discover a country, a culture, a way of life.
I was in Thailand 8 months ago.
It’s a country I really like—I’ve been there three times—but...
Compared to India, everything there is more beautiful, cleaner, cheap, and the welcome is amazing.
But everything felt so sanitized and so tailored to tourists that even while backpacking, I felt like I was at Club Med and, in the end, didn’t really connect with Thai culture.
Anyway, I think we could talk about this kind of thing for hours.
The question: *Who really loves India?*
Well, there’s *liking* it, and then there’s *love*—and love is subjective.
Everyone has the right to love or not love a place.
Basically, I think India is all about certain principles and values you won’t find ANYWHERE else. There’s "curiously" a "category" of travelers for whom it’s a UNIQUE AND EXCEPTIONAL destination. Now, explaining why is a long story—there are hundreds, even more posts on this forum where people like Stalingrad, Nalesnik, and many others regularly share their experiences. We’re not all the same, thankfully—everyone has their own sensitivities and subjective perspective.
But spending 10 days versus several months—it’s not the same at all. Going to India "prepared" or by chance isn’t either.
Some people… cry when it’s time to leave. Others, once they’re "home," can’t wait to come back as soon as possible. Generally, that doesn’t happen after just 10 days (often the opposite—check the travel journals or some blogs).
As for Club Med… yeah, it’s a much more popular option for people who just want to enjoy their vacation rather than go to India. Spending 3-6 months nonstop at Club Med—I don’t know if there’d be any survivors… 😉
In India, it’s a whole different story.
Anyway, I think 3-4 weeks is the minimum for anyone to really discover the essence of this country. After that, nothing in your life will ever be the same. (Super dramatic, oh well 😛)
Okay, sure, you can call me intolerant, but maybe think a little before writing. After all, it wasn’t me who wrote the following terms: « misery, filth, hellish traffic, honking non-stop, diarrhea despite the restaurant recommendations in the *Guide du Routard* and *Lonely Planet*, noise, many homeless people, delayed trains and uncomfortable first-class carriages, pushy vendors, rickshaws, and beggars, humid heat, dust, nothing interesting to bring back, no sidewalks so you’re constantly on edge, questionable hygiene in hotels and restaurants, and locals who see visitors as cash cows. »
Or: « I think it’s just the fact that you can spend without counting, and that’s what attracts the French in this period of low purchasing power. »
So YES, you can dislike India, but NO, you’re not really allowed to say just anything and drag the country and its people through the mud. They deserve some respect. They’re not there for the pleasure of tourists!
The worst is still the « nothing interesting to bring back. » What does that even mean? Is it about souvenir items? The country has some of the most diverse handicrafts in the world. That’s surprising. Or is it about human experience? Life lessons? In that case, the country isn’t to blame—it’s more about the traveler’s lack of openness, don’t you think?
« True happiness does not depend on any being or any external object. It depends only on ourselves. » (His Holiness the Dalai Lama)
Tolerance isn’t about letting people say whatever they want or letting Western contempt toward peoples who never asked for it be expressed.
We really wonder what you're doing on this forum. Forget about India, Indians, and all those who, like me, are interested in the country, its people, and their cultures—they’ll be grateful to you.
I don’t know what you learned during your stay in India, but it clearly wasn’t tolerance. This is a travel forum, and everyone is free to share their positive or negative opinions about the trips they’ve taken.
And as others have said, just because someone didn’t really enjoy India doesn’t mean they prefer Club Med.
For my part, I can’t say I didn’t like India—it’s a fascinating country—but it’s the first time I’ve come back from a trip with such negative feelings.
I’m not surprised by your reaction, especially if you spent 10 days in India doing the Delhi/Jaipur/Agra triangle without knowing the country, its culture, or its civilization. What you said is true—except for the "nothing interesting to bring back" and the generalization about the locals—but what you saw on that "triangle" (I find that expression ridiculous) is only a tiny part of India, the "tourist zoo" side. The people who harassed you aren’t representative of the population as a whole... You saw the country through a fence and formed an opinion based on that, nothing more. India doesn’t give itself up easily; you have to take your time, explore the backroads, understand it, and study it beforehand.
You know, the first day I arrived in Paharganj in Delhi, I thought I’d landed in hell—it’s awful, the places, the dirt, the people, a bit like you described. And now that I live in Delhi, call it home, and have my bearings, I still feel the same way about Paharganj! Even middle-class Delhi residents think so: to them, it’s a sketchy neighborhood they wouldn’t dare set foot in. But Delhi isn’t Paharganj, just like Paris isn’t Barbès or the souvenir shops on Rue de Rivoli! I love Delhi—its history, its heritage, its diversity—even if everything is far from perfect, far from it. I love Delhi, and I love Paris too, but for different reasons. No comparison; you have to appreciate these cities for what they are and not blame them for what they’re not.
Everyone who loves India loves it for their own reasons, which vary widely. But you need a reason to go to India. When I hear people say they’re afraid of seeing poverty, I don’t know how to respond. If I had to give you ONE answer, I’d say I love India because it’s a country that will always surprise me, always remain inexplicable, unpredictable, mysterious. India is never the same: it’s eternally captivating because it’s unsettling.
Some will tell you it’s the spirituality, others the music, the food, the landscapes, the Himalayan treks, or the change of scenery...
Come on, here’s one reason for *you* to love India: there are eucalyptus trees everywhere! 😛
I took the time to read your message and the various replies, which I found very measured and understanding. India represents 20% of the world's population, living in challenging conditions but with great merit, especially given the existence of a democratic electoral system through universal suffrage. Not many emerging countries can say the same! India is home to a dominant religion (Hinduism) that’s extraordinarily tolerant and open to others. Did you know some Hindus raise their children in other religions so everyone can benefit from the protection of multiple deities? India is hundreds of millions of individuals who wear irresistible smiles despite social and physical hardships; it’s rickshaw drivers pedaling with unbelievable energy to get you to your destination without a single complaint. India is a history and culture(s) that Westerners should bow to—Versailles is like a wooden shack compared to Jodhpur Fort. India is a daily culinary wonder (I spent a month there without a single bout of diarrhea—pro tip: drink *a lot* of water), and a constant aesthetic marvel.
To appreciate this country, you need an open mind, not Western blinders.
Saying it’s a place you go to avoid spending money is disrespectful to those who truly want to know and appreciate it. You can also spend a fortune there in hotels where they’ll serve you steak-fries-salad.
I went last year and I’m returning in a month, partly retracing the same route because I was so captivated by certain places.
I get that for some, recurring stays at the same "Club Med" are an alternative. I have friends who make that choice—they spend without counting the cost and can afford it. I don’t look down on them. But I think that kind of vacation might suit you better, as long as you keep your blinders on.
Hi, I'm about to open an account (payment card) with N26 Black (seems more transparent in its presentation and explanations) or maybe Revolut (but it seems to…
Hello,
Planning a cruise on the Brahmaputra in January—should we worry about being bothered by those little critters? One of us has allergies.
Thanks for your replies
Hello!
We're a family of 4—3 adults and a 14-year-old. We're seasoned travelers with a passion for science, culture, and history. In short, we love discovering and learning.
We'll be in India for 3 weeks, from December 11, 2026 (in Goa) to January 3, 2027 (in Thiruvananthapuram).
We're looking for one or more drivers to handle the journey and guides who speak clear, fluent English, French, or Spanish. We'd love guides who are knowledgeable, passionate about their region, and able to answer our countless questions while giving us in-depth insights into the places, rituals, culture, and more.
Do you know of such guides or drivers, or have any tips on how to find people who can help us create unforgettable memories?
Thank you so much in advance!
Cat
Hello,
We are two couples of friends aged between 65 and 70. Do you have a local agency or a local French-speaking driver-guide to recommend for a trip around Sri Lanka between February 14 and March 14, 2027? We’re open to any tips for our trip. The reviews and advice for agencies found on the forum are several years old. Thanks for your help.
Hi there,
Our trip to India, starting at the end of October, is taking shape.
I’d like to book a hotel in Delhi for our first three nights and another in Amritsar, where we’ll be staying during Diwali.
I’ve realized it’s really hard to trust the reviews on Booking. Have any of you stayed at and can recommend mid-range hotels in these two cities?
Your feedback could help us decide!
Thanks in advance.
Hi there, we're planning to go to Haridwar and Rishikesh in February, either from Delhi or from Amritsar where we'll be beforehand. What's the best way to get there? Driver, private car, train? Your tips would be much appreciated... thanks
Hi, I'm thinking of attending the Nagaur Fair in Rajasthan, which takes place from February 12 to 15, 2027.
Has anyone been to this fair? Is it just a livestock market or a real festival with music and dancing? Since it’s quite a detour for me, I wanted to know if it’s worth it. Thanks!
I'm also considering a trip to Sri Lanka.
I'm surprised to find so few references to Jaffna in the comments.
Does that mean this destination isn't worth it?
Thanks for your thoughts!
We’re heading to Sri Lanka for 23 days in January 2027—there are four of us—and we’ll wrap up the trip with 5 days in Mumbai. Our itinerary is coming together, but what do you think? (We can’t change the dates since our flights are already booked.)
We still have one night to slot in, and I’ve tentatively planned it in Tangalle, though it was a bit random. Would it make more sense to place it at a different stop? Or is there an intermediate stop I might be missing?
I’ve got accommodations sorted everywhere except Mumbai—it’s a nightmare (either way too expensive or really dodgy). By default, we’ve spotted the Residency Hotel Fort, but 70 € a night (with a discount) for a hotel that doesn’t offer anything special in India?!
I’m planning a short visit to Pokhara around mid-February 2027 (it’ll be my 4th time in Nepal 😊, over 40 years!). I’d like to book a room in advance rather than looking when I arrive. I’ve checked a bit on Bxxking.com and see lots of options. I’m used to scoping out the surroundings of places listed, just to avoid ending up in areas that are either unappealing or far from everything.
So, I see quite a few offers around the lake (Lakeside?), but every time I check what it looks like, the streets seem really uninviting. It’s kind of like a construction site with buildings everywhere… Nothing like Bhaktapur (for example) or even Thamel, where the streets seem way more pleasant.
Could anyone give me some advice?
Also, I don’t really get the impression that Pokhara is worth a visit of several days. The lake, sure, but once you’ve seen it—what else is there?
I’m interested in the 10-day/8-night "Discover Nepal" tour offered by Capitales Tours, among others.
For Day 4, it lists Kathmandu-Mugling-Pokhara as 200 km and 8/9 hours of travel.
Is this duration due to the road conditions? I assume the stop in Mugling for lunch is included in the travel time.
For Pokhara-Chitwan, only the distance is mentioned: 160 km. Should I expect a long bus ride there as well?
The proposed flights would be with AIR-INDIA via DELHI. We had issues with AIR-INDIA before—they denied us boarding for Paris even though we arrived at the airport more than 3 hours early. There was no specific counter for PARIS; the counters were for all destinations, and we waited in line for over 2.5 hours only to be told "too late"...
Thanks for your advice: Mum49
Is it still like this?
Yeah, VF, which used to be so responsive, still doesn’t even have a thread about this devastating mudslide that’s ravaged a region of Nepal where hundreds have died and hundreds more are missing (provisional toll). But from the images, we know the number of victims is going to be terrifying.
Thoughts to everyone affected, including, according to early reports, many travelers..
Hello,
We’ve already traveled to India twice before, but only for two-week stretches (2013, a loop from Mumbai including Hampi, and in 2019, Tamil Nadu). This time, we’re leaving at the end of October for nearly three months of travel—something completely new for us! We’ll arrive in Delhi and depart from Bangalore. Our goal is to explore Northern India and then head down to Kerala, taking a maximum of one flight and prioritizing trains.
Traveling for this long should let us plan longer stops to slow down the pace and fully enjoy our trip...
What are the places you’ve loved with this in mind?
I’ve already thought of Gokarna... Do you have any other suggestions, especially in Northern India?
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Hi there,
I’m planning a trip to Bangladesh for tourism during All Saints' Day 25. The government website is pretty discouraging! I’d love to hear from people living there or who’ve been recently before I buy my tickets.
How’s the security level and feasibility of a circuit (boat, train, bus around the country)? We’re used to basic conditions :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Cécile
I’ll be landing in Srinagar on October 23rd. I’ve decided to visit this region of India that I haven’t explored yet to discover new landscapes and, especially, their crafts.
I don’t have anything planned so far. I’ll be staying for about two weeks before heading back to Pushkar.
I’d love any tips you can share—small towns or villages to visit, ideas for affordable and authentic accommodations, workshops to check out, and so on. I’m open to all your suggestions!
I might head toward Jammu, where a host has offered to put me up for a few days.
Thanks in advance, and take care!
Hi,
I’m looking for an organized tour in Northern India that goes through Agra (of course!) over about twenty days, prioritizing 2-day stops given the long distances or flights.
So far, my search has led me to these tours:
Intimate Rajasthan + Ganges Valley
Intimate Rajasthan and Goa
Confidential Rajasthan + Goa circuit
The number of kilometers is still pretty overwhelming and a bit scary.
Thanks for your feedback!
bcricri14
Practical tips from my 105 days of erratic wandering in India
Day 1 (10/10/2006): arrived in Mumbai around noon. Bus No. 338 5 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) 20' to Andheri station. Train 6 Rs to Dadar. Train 41 Rs to Lonavla 2h30 Hotel Chandralok 500 Rs **
Day 2: bike rental 7 Rs/h (too expensive, normal price 2-3 Rs/h) visit to the caves of Bhaja and Karla.
Day 3: train 28 Rs to Pune 1h20 Hotel National 416 Rs *
Day 4: train 141 Rs (with reservation) to Satara 2h45 Hotel Sagar 364 Rs **
Day 5: bus 110 Rs to Pandharpur 4h Hotel Aishwarya 450 Rs ***
Day 6: bike rental 2 Rs/h
Day 7: bus 125 Rs to Ahmadnagar 4h20 Hotel Parijat 250 Rs *
Day 8: train 151 Rs (!ticket for a mini 600 km trip!) to Jalgaon 5h30 Hotel Plaza 200 Rs **
Day 9: round-trip bus 38 Rs to Ajanta 1h30 + shuttle 6 Rs 5' Site entrance 250 Rs
Day 10: train 47 Rs to Khandwa 3h + bus 40 Rs to Omkareshwar 2h Ganesh G.H. 150 Rs *
Day 11 to 13: Omkareshwar
Day 14: bus 35 Rs to Maheshwar 2h45 Akashdeep Rest House 200 Rs **
Day 15: bus 8 Rs to Dhamnod 20' bus 20 Rs to crossroads 14 km from Mandu 1h40 bus 9 Rs to Mandu 20' Ram Mandir Dharamshala 100 Rs + 5 Rs for hot water *
Day 16: bike rental 3 Rs/h
Day 17: bus 50 Rs to Indore 4h Hotel Neelam 209 Rs
Day 18 to 20: Indore + round-trip bus 30 Rs to Ujjain 1h45
Day 21: train 82 Rs to Bhopal 5h30 Hotel Ranjeet 358 Rs *
Day 22: train 10 Rs to Sanchi 1h20 Jaiswal Lodge 200 Rs + 15 Rs for hot water! *
Day 23 and 24: visit to Sanchi + bike rental to visit the caves of Udayagiri
Day 25: train 69 Rs to Jhansi 5h + tempo 5 Rs to bus station + tempo 10 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) to Orccha 25' Sri Mahant G.H. 200 Rs **
Day 26 and 27: bike rental + train 20 Rs to Datia 30' + bemo 6 Rs to city center. Return bus 15 Rs 1h15
Day 28: bus 100 Rs to Khajuraho 4h Yogi Lodge 150 Rs **
Day 29: bike rental 30 Rs/day to visit the temples
Day 30: bus 70 Rs to Satna 4h + train 56 Rs to Jabalpur 3h Hotel Banjara 350 Rs **
Day 31: bike rental 2 Rs/h and visit to the Marble Rocks (50 km round trip)
Day 32: bus 50 Rs to Mandla 3h Hotel Satyam 250 Rs ** Round-trip bus 15 Rs to Ramnagar 1h15
Day 33: bus 60 Rs to Dindori 4h + bus 45 Rs to Amarkantak 3h (hellish road) Sarvodya Lodge 250 Rs °
Day 34: Amarkantak
Day 35: bus 25 Rs to Pendra Road 1h30 + train 120 Rs + 109 Rs (reservation) to Nagpur 8h Hotel Grand 257 Rs **
Day 36 and 37: bike rental + round-trip 25 Rs to Ramtek 1h40
Day 38: train 141 Rs + 125 Rs to Hyderabad 10h Hotel 3 Castles 200 Rs ° + Hotel Suhail 200 Rs °
Day 39 to 41: stay in Hyderabad
Day 42: train 48 Rs to Warangal 3h30 Hotel Surya 410 Rs **
Day 43: 60 Rs to Vijayawada 4h15 Hotel Sindhuri 275 Rs **
Day 44: round-trip bus 21 Rs to Amaravati 2h
Day 45: train 98 Rs to Visakhapatnam 7h30! (normally 6h) Hotel Sri Sampath Residency 250 Rs **
Day 46: train 111 Rs + 95 Rs to Puri 11h30 Travellers Inn 100 Rs ° + Hotel Z 300 Rs ***
Day 47 to 52: Puri + round-trip to Konarak
Day 53: train 38 Rs to Bhubaneshwar 1h15 Hotel Upasana 275 Rs *
Day 54: train 70 Rs to Balasore 4h bus 26 Rs to Baripada 1h40 Hotel Ambika 225 Rs °
Day 55: bus 25 Rs to Balasore 1h40 train 66 Rs + 68 Rs to Calcutta 6h30 Hotel Paragon 270 Rs * Hotel Crystal 350 Rs **
Day 56 to 62: Calcutta
Day 63: 60 Rs to Bishnupur 5h Hotel Monalisa 200 Rs *
Day 64: stay in Bishnupur no bike rental!
Day 65: bus 20 Rs to Bankura 1h30 bus 20 Rs to Durgapur 1h15 bus 28 Rs to Bolpur 2h15 Hotel Nisa 150 Rs *
Day 66 and 67: visit to Bolpur/Shantiniketan. Refused bike rental at ... 100 Rs/day!!! (Communist state of Bengal!!!)
Day 68: bus 20 Rs to Sainthia bus 35 Rs to Baharampur 4h30 bus 7 Rs to Murshidabad 40' Hotel Manjusha 350 Rs **
Day 69: bike lent by the friendly hotel owner and visit to Murshidabad
Day 70: bus 8 Rs to Baharampur 35' bus 60 Rs to Malda 6h (hellish road) Hotel Pratapaditya 231 Rs **
Day 71: train 66 Rs + 70 Rs to New Jalpaiguri 4h Hotel Holydon 250 Rs °
Day 72: train 52 Rs to Darjeeling 9h30! (normally 7h) Hotel Pineridge 500 Rs **
Day 73 to 75: Darjeeling
Day 76: train to New Jalpaiguri 9h30 + overnight train 271 Rs
Day 77: Patna Hotel President 482 Rs **
Day 78: stay in Patna
Day 79: train 18 Rs to Gaya 3h10 tempo 10 Rs to Bodhgaya 30' Deep G.H. 400 Rs!! °°
Day 80: return to Patna
Day 81: round-trip train 36 Rs to Rajgir 4h! (normally 3h)
Day 82: train 75 Rs to Varanasi 5h! (normally 4h) Yogi Lodge 150 Rs *
Day 83 to 87: Varanasi
Day 88: overnight train 310 Rs to Jaipur Evergreen G.H. 250 Rs **
Day 89: bike rental 30 Rs/day round-trip to Amber
Day 90: bus 59 Rs to Sikar 2h30 bus 23 Rs to Fatehpur 1h30 Rajshri Rest House 300 Rs *
Day 91: round-trip bus 12 Rs to Mandawa 30'
Day 92: round-trip bus 17 Rs to Churu 1h30
Day 93: bus 80 Rs to Jaipur 3h30 Evergreen G.H.
Day 94: bus 105 Rs to Bundi 5h30 Shivam G.H. 200 Rs **
Day 95: bike rental 3 Rs/h
Day 96: auto-rickshaw to station 45 Rs 25' train 44 Rs + 50 Rs to Chittorgarh train 21 Rs to Udaipur (total trip 8h) Badi Haveli 330 Rs **
Day 97 to 99: Udaipur + round-trip bus 45 Rs to Ranakpur 3h30
Day 100: bus 143 Rs to Ahmedabad 5h30 Hotel Manila 300 Rs **
Day 101: Ahmedabad
Day 102: bus 99 Rs to Bhavnagar 4h30 Hotel Vrindavan 200 Rs *
Day 103: round-trip bus 22 Rs to Palitana 1h10
Day 104: bus 85 Rs! to Ahmedabad 5h30 + overnight train ? Rs (feels like the end of the trip!)
Day 105 (January 22, 2007): train 6 Rs from Dadar to Andheri 20' + bus 5 Rs + 5 Rs (bag) to International Airport 20'
More figures
British Airways flight price Brussels-London-Mumbai-London-Brussels 576 €
Exchange rate from 55 Rs to 58.6 Rs per euro
Average room price 272 Rs/night
Daily budget 11 €
Chai from 1 Rs (Calcutta-Bengal) to 6/7 Rs (Rajasthan)
Bottle of water from 6 Rs (Udaipur), 8 Rs (Varanasi) to 12/13 Rs
Internet from 8 Rs (Warangal), 10 Rs (Calcutta, Indore, Hyderabad), 20 Rs (often) to 40/60 Rs!! (Rajasthan)
Beer in a restaurant from 85/100 Rs (often) to 150/165 Rs (Varanasi/Udaipur)
More details on request
Hello everyone,
we got back from our trip to Kashmir and Ladakh three weeks ago.
We spent 4 weeks there, including one in Kashmir.
We’re really happy with our stay in Srinagar and Sonamarg. The Kashmiris gave us a very warm welcome and seemed pleased to see tourists who weren’t Indian. In fact, over the 4 days we spent in Srinagar, we only saw 4 people who looked European... Srinagar is stunning with its lakes and the lively Mughal gardens. No trouble getting around, whether by shikara, rickshaw, taxi, or on foot. The houseboats are gorgeous, unfortunately controlled by consortiums. We took a taxi to Sonamarg (20 €).
Sonamarg (two nights) and its glacier are easy to explore, either on horseback or on foot, but it’s becoming a leisure spot for Indians.
To get to Ladakh afterward, we opted for a private taxi (quite expensive at 100 €, but the road is long). Since we’re a couple, it allowed us to stop whenever we wanted... and the route is beautiful all the way to Lamayuru, with our first snow-covered pass under snow when we crossed around May 21st. Then we stopped in Mulbek and Kargil before arriving in Lamayuru (three nights). We took another taxi to Alchi (26 €), spent one night there, and took the local bus at around 8 AM to Leh (3 €, a comfortable one-hour ride). We arrived in Leh around 9:30 AM, and Gyatsel from Tsarap Guesthouse came to pick us up with our backpacks. His guesthouse is located 500 meters from the market square in Leh, in a quiet little alley with no traffic. We highly recommend it because Gyatsel is invaluable for arranging taxis and organizing off-agency circuits...
His accommodation is super comfortable, and he cooks with vegetables from his garden. His wife also helps out... It’s Gyatsel’s mother who tends the garden. Through him, we arranged permits for the Nubra Valley up to Turtuk, then the Pangong and Tso Moriri lakes (we didn’t do the latter due to snow overnight!). We also crossed the Changtang (magnificent) to reach Thiksey, Stakna, Hemis, and returned to Leh. Six days in a private taxi (400 €). Since the roads were clear, we headed to Zanskar for 5 days in a shared taxi (28 € round trip for both of us). The route from Leh to Zangla follows the Zanskar gorges (impressive!).
We discovered Padum, Pibiting, Karsha, and Puktal, which you can reach via a small 7 km road and a 45-minute walk to finish, plus the sacred summit on the way to Manali.
Back in Leh, we extended our permit to visit the Aryan Valley by taxi (round trip, two days, 90 €).
We spent our last two days resting in Leh—the altitude is really tiring...
I’m sharing these taxi prices as a guide for a couple.
Accommodation ranged from 12 € in Leh to 30 € at Pangong Lake (the most expensive), but averaged around 15-17 € per night.
We’re not trekkers, but we love walks, discovery, and meeting people along the way. It was an amazing trip, and we even discovered a very old monastery a few kilometers before Lamayuru, where a monk took us—timeless...
I’m sharing these details because it’s hard to find precise information about Kashmir.
I’m heading to Sri Lanka for 3 weeks in July with my two 11-year-old kids, and I’m wondering about how to organize the trip. We’re used to traveling on the go, staying 1 to 2 or 3 nights per place depending on how we feel.
Do you recommend planning the itinerary and booking accommodations in advance to save time once we’re there?
Or is it pretty easy to organize everything as we go without any issues?
Same question for activities: Should we book safaris and tours ahead of time, or can we arrange them easily on the spot? Is there a risk of not getting a spot, for example, to visit a park since we’ll be there in July?
We’ll be using local transport (train, VTC via PickMe, tuk-tuk) to get from one place to another.
In short: Are there any must-book things we should reserve now?
So far, I only have the flight tickets!
Hi there, I think you're on the right track—you plan the itinerary and book the rooms in advance, and that’s it.
Not only do you save time, but you also know where you’ll be staying each night. Choosing well on Booking (or elsewhere) is actually a pleasure!
For safaris, given the number of jeeps with drivers available, it’s unlikely you’ll be turned away... the real issue is more about the concentration of jeeps around the animals.
I travel like you do—train, bus, tuk-tuk, and sometimes taxi. Ride-hailing apps like PickMe and other VTCs are mostly in big cities.
For the mountain train, due to severe flooding, service was interrupted on the line between Kandy and Ella. Check ahead, because reservations for this train are very complicated, if not impossible.
For the Colombo/Kandy train, you reserve your seats by buying the ticket before boarding. In the south, no need to book in advance for trains.
In Sri Lanka, there’s always a solution for getting around—just ask your hosts. They have trusted contacts at their fingertips. But still, compare prices—😏 smart move!
I stick to booking my nights and keep pre-planned activities to a minimum.
For reservations you can’t skip, it’s the beach stays you’ll want to secure.
I’m trying to find out if it’s still possible to travel from Mumbai to Goa by ferry or any other sea route. My search results aren’t very clear, and if it *is* possible, I can’t figure out where to book...
If anyone has any info, I’d really appreciate it—thanks in advance!
It seems there’s a ferry from Nagapattinam to Jaffna in India. Has anyone here taken this ferry before? My main question is how to get to Nagapattinam—by train, bus? And from which town further south, of course.
Thanks, friends!
Hi there.
We’re spending a month in Sri Lanka in March, and we’ll have one week left after leaving Polonnaruwa.
We’re torn between spending it in the Jaffna region or on the east coast between Batticaloa and Trincomalee.
We’re divers, so the east coast appeals to us for snorkeling, beaches, and lagoons—but it seems like late March might not be the best time for that coast. What do you think?
As for Jaffna, the culture of the region, its more authentic feel since it’s less touristy, and the offshore islands all appeal to us too—but it seems far from the rest of the country and harder to access.
We have to choose because we won’t be able to visit both sides, and I’d love to hear your thoughts.
Thanks, Marie
Hi there,
We just got back from a 2-week trip to Sri Lanka as a couple, and while planning the trip, we found plenty of info on the itinerary, places to see, and transportation, but much fewer clear reports on the actual budget to expect once there. Yet, that was an important point for us because we like to plan ahead a little before traveling.
So, we took the time to break down our complete budget after the trip. In our case, we spent around **930 € per person** for 2 weeks, being careful without depriving ourselves, mixing guesthouses, more comfortable hotels, quite a few activities, and even a private driver for part of the stay.
What we found interesting when crunching the numbers is that in Sri Lanka, it’s not necessarily meals or short trips that blow the budget, but rather flights, certain accommodations, cultural activities, and all those little expenses we sometimes forget, like tips.
If this can help other travelers get a better idea, we’ve put everything together on our blog with our experience, a detailed breakdown of expenses, and practical info on money while there, withdrawals, and tipping:
https://aventures-sans-mesaventure.com/budget-sri-lanka-pour-un-voyage-de-2-semaines/
We’re a group of 5 heading to the Everest Base Camp trek in early April. We won’t have a porter or guide—we’re used to hiking independently and have already done the Langtang trek and the Annapurna Circuit (back in 2003!).
I’d love to know if it’s necessary to book lodges in advance or if we’ll easily find availability during this busy season. Also, will we find lodges all along the route between the main stopover villages, or only in those villages? I remember there were plenty everywhere on the Annapurna Circuit. We want to stay as flexible as possible.
We’re heading to India in March 2026 and had planned to visit the parts of the Meenakshi Temple that are open to non-Hindus. However, the temple is currently undergoing major renovations—with all the towers covered in scaffolding—which might really take away from the experience and our stop in Madurai.
After some frustrating and vague online searches, and before we reshuffle our itinerary, I’d love to know—if possible—the most accurate expected completion date for the renovation work.
We’re planning a trip to Nepal and would love to do a helicopter tour to Everest with Namche Heli Service.
Has anyone here used this agency? I can’t seem to find any reviews online.
Thanks in advance!
