Bangkok - Chiang Mai - Koh Samui in summer

Translated into English.

Original post
WA
Hi everyone, I’ve spent two solid months reading the Lonely Planet and pretty much every post about Thailand here, plus French and English blogs. Now I’d love to get your expert opinions on our itinerary. We’re heading off in August 2025 with our 7-year-old daughter. We only have a maximum of three weeks off, and I’m keeping an eye on flight prices before booking (1400 € per person really stings [:/]). So here’s what I’ve planned—let me know if you spot any major issues or if I’ve been way too "optimistic."

D1 - Arrival in Bangkok / rest, quick visit, overnight stay D2 - More temple visits, etc. D3 - Morning flight to Chiang Mai D4 - More Chiang Mai sightseeing D5 - Day trip to Chiang Rai (guided tour to book: blue and white temple), return to Chiang Mai late in the evening D6 - More Chiang Mai visits / Elephant Nature Park in the afternoon D7 - Morning flight to Koh Samui, sightseeing D8 to D10 - More Koh Samui visits D11 to D13 - Ferry to Koh Phangan D14 to D15 - Ferry to Koh Tao D16 - Return to Koh Samui, then flight to Bangkok D17 - Day trip to Ayutthaya, return to Bangkok in the evening D18 - Flight back to France :(

I know a lot of you recommend heading straight to Chiang Mai to recover from the international flight, but my partner and I NEVER sleep on planes (personally, I’ve been flying to Taiwan since I was little and have never slept more than an hour on a 14-hour flight...), so it’s essential for us to rest upon arrival . That’s also why I opted for domestic flights instead of the sleeper train—I know we’d lose over 10 hours and wouldn’t be able to rest properly in those conditions. And I’m sure you’ll also say BKK > North > South is too much for three weeks, but I really want to see as much as possible. Given how much the flights will cost, I’m not sure when we’ll be able to come back .

So, questions: 1. Since we’ll only be in Bangkok for a maximum of two nights and need to easily reach the airport with luggage (and a child), which neighborhood should we prioritize? We’d love to experience the evening vibe of Asian night markets, ideally within walking distance of the hotel or just a few metro stops away. I’ve looked at Chinatown, but the BTS seems far... Should we go for somewhere near BTS Saphan Taksin or BTS Krungthonburi? But is the area lively in the evening with food courts, etc.? We’d also like to treat ourselves to a hotel with a pool.

2. Have we planned too many days in the south? Should I skip Koh Tao and just do Koh Samui + Koh Phangan? My partner and daughter aren’t strong swimmers, so we’re looking for beautiful beaches without too much current. Crowded beaches don’t bother us—we just want stunning turquoise waters without killer waves . Going all the way to Koh Tao and then back to Koh Samui to catch the flight to Bangkok seems too stressful. Is it still possible these days (I haven’t seen any recent posts on this) to head to Koh Samui in August and decide on the spot how many nights to spend in Koh Phangan or Koh Tao based on how we feel, booking hotels as we go? Or is that too risky?

If you have any better suggestions for fitting all this in while reducing internal flights, I’m all ears for your great tips
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

- Chiang Mai to Chiang Rai is a 7-hour round-trip bus ride. Trying to do it with visits included in the same day is unreasonable.

And you’ll also say BKK>North>South is too much for 3 weeks

I see 2.5 weeks of travel, not 3. It won’t be the entire North and South but a very small part of each, so it’s doable in 2.5 weeks. What’s surprising, though, is the large number of days dedicated to beach time compared to the North—it gives the impression that your stop in Chiang Mai is just there as a justification.

Did we plan too many days in the South?

See my two remarks above.

flight tickets (...) (1400 € per person stings [:/]).

After a quick search, I see that for a Saturday departure* in August and a mid-week return, prices are more around 1100 euros. It’s still expensive but not as bad as 1400 €. Also, kids under 12 sometimes get a small discount—add that criterion when choosing your airline.

* Departing and/or returning on a weekend is usually more expensive.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Congrats!

You’ve planned the most insane itinerary I’ve seen so far!

That said, reading your post, I get why.

Do yourself a favor: skip Chiang Rai—it won’t add anything for you—and drop either Samui or Phangan.

Use those extra days in the Chiang Mai area, where there are so many diverse activities to try.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
GA Gaura Veteran ·
Hi there, I’ve been to Thailand a dozen or so times, from north to south, with or without kids, little ones or teens... in December, January, or February, so during the cool season, traveling by domestic flights, train, big buses, death-defying minibuses, taxis, and more. Your itinerary has way too many places and therefore too many transport legs—it’s a huge time-waster. If you’re stopping in Bangkok on arrival, you won’t do much on the first day because you’ll be exhausted. On the second day, visit the Grand Palace—even the kids love it because it’s bursting with color and full of massive, fantastical creatures. If you’re not too tired, check out Wat Pho.





On the second day, you can take a river bus to the end of the line and see life along the banks and the traffic on the river. You can stop to visit Wat Pho if you didn’t see it the day before—the giant reclining golden Buddha is unforgettable.

On the other side of the river, stop at Wat Arun, which lines the waterfront.



If you’re new to Thailand, what really matters is the change of scenery. In the north, Chiang Mai is enough. It’s a big city that feels familiar in some ways, but if you stay in the "square" (the historic center within the moat), you’ll have 40 temples within walking distance, including some of the most beautiful ones.













The area is really lively—sure, there are other tourists, but also lots of Thai people who come to pray at the temples, and plenty of monks. There are also restaurants, hotels (the ones I stay at in winter don’t have pools), and weekend night markets along the main street. Lots of agencies offer activities in the surrounding countryside and mountains... In Chiang Rai, the temple architecture is the same (Lanna style), except for the recent White Temple. I only go there with friends who are into Asian architecture because it’s a long trip, and I take a flight back to Bangkok or elsewhere without returning to Chiang Mai.

Someone else might be able to tell you where to see beautiful rice fields in the north at this time of year. For the beaches, I’m not familiar with the ones you’re interested in, but you’ve already got some answers. Have a great trip!



gaura
WA Waterlily78 ·
Thanks so much for your quick reply! I’d seen on GetYourGuide day trips to Chiang Rai from Chiang Mai—leaving at 7 AM and returning at 10 PM. Honestly, I think I’ll take your advice and skip that tour. Or maybe add 2 extra nights there and cut 2 from the southern islands. Flight tickets still aren’t booked 😅 I set up an alert on Skyscanner. We’re still seeing around 1300 € with one stop in Dubai, or 1400 € for a direct flight with Thai Airways. Yeah, we’re also keeping an eye on weekday flights.

Question: Do you know if Bangkok’s airport is a nightmare to reach by public transport? If it’s anything like CDG Étoile (for those who know), I’m seriously considering booking the direct international flight and then connecting straight to the domestic flight to Chiang Mai. We’ll be exhausted, but at least we won’t have to make the trek back to the airport after just 2 nights in Bangkok. In that case, how many hours should we ideally allow between landing in Bangkok and our departure for Chiang Mai? 2 hours? 4 hours? Thanks!!
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi there, Thanks for taking the time to reply. I read your travel journals about Thailand 😊 You suggest skipping Samui and Phangan. Based on my research, I was almost ready to do the opposite and skip Koh Tao. Is it because of the island’s more authentic vibe that you prefer it? I read that it’s better for snorkeling and strong swimmers, which isn’t our case. Snorkeling means coral beaches, which is why I was ready to skip it—especially since getting back to Bangkok for the return flight is a real hassle. Otherwise, when we arrive in Samui, should we head straight to the farthest point, so Tao, then come back to Phangan, and finally spend a few days on Samui before the flight to Bangkok (if I stick to the original plan of visiting all three islands!)? What do you think?
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hello, Your photos are amazing 🤩 we love visiting temples when we're in Asia. Thanks for the Bangkok itinerary idea! You seem to know this city well—would you have any recommendations for neighborhoods to stay in where there are lots of night markets and everything is within walking distance? I read that areas near BTS Saphan Taksin or Krungthonburi are practical and close to the river for visiting temples, but posts don’t mention the evening vibe. We’re planning to do a lot of sightseeing during the day and then head out on foot in the evenings to snack before heading back to the hotel, depending on our daughter’s energy (and our feet’s!).

Thanks also for your tip about staying in the "square" in Chiang Mai. I haven’t started researching neighborhoods for that city yet, but now I’ll know what to prioritize 😊

After your feedback on Chiang Rai and others’ before you, I’m really starting to doubt whether adding that stop is worth it. Thanks again!
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Question: Do you know if the airport in Bangkok is a real hassle to reach by public transport? Is it like CDG Étoile?

From CDG Étoile, you don’t take off—you triumph. [;)] Bangkok’s main airport, Suvarnabhumi (BKK), is easily reachable by the Skytrain, which helps avoid the traffic jams (from 6–10 AM and 3–8 PM) from the city center. However, the Skytrain doesn’t directly serve tourist areas, so you’ll still need another form of transport to reach one of its stations. The airport is also accessible by urban buses and special "airport" buses (I’ve forgotten the name). Otherwise, there’s the metered taxi. In any case, except for the Skytrain, never forget the traffic jam issue.

I’m seriously considering booking a direct international flight and then connecting straight to a domestic flight to Chiang Mai. We’ll be exhausted, but at least we won’t have to make the trip back to the airport after 2 nights.

That’s exactly what I’d do in your situation. Just make sure your connecting flight departs from Suvarnabhumi (BKK). Currently, Bangkok Airways*, Thai Airways**, AirAsia***, and Thai VietJet**** operate from there. If you take the Thai Airways international flight arriving at BKK around 6 AM, all these airlines have flights that’ll get you to Chiang Mai before 11 AM.

*Check at CDG if you can check your luggage straight through to Chiang Mai—it seems Thai Airways (international) and Bangkok Airways have commercial agreements, so in Bangkok, you’d only need to "transfer" and handle all formalities + baggage claim in Chiang Mai. **Same as above with Bangkok Airways. ***Low-cost. Be careful when booking—some of their flights to Chiang Mai depart from Don Mueang (DMK), the other airport, which is far from BKK. ****Low-cost.

In that case, how many hours should we ideally allow between arriving in Bangkok and departing for Chiang Mai? 2 hours? 4 hours? Thanks!!

Arrival at BKK → connection at BKK: 2 to 2.25 hours (including formalities + baggage claim at BKK). Arrival at BKK → connection at DMK: 4 to 5 hours.
GA Gaura Veteran ·
Hello, As I mentioned, we mostly went to Bangkok in the winter, so we didn’t need a pool—the heat was bearable. We don’t like areas with lots of hotels and the touristy night markets that come with them. We often went to the Silom and Saladaeng districts, which are part of Bangkok’s economic and commercial center. There are quiet little hotels tucked away in the alleys, and *so* much life—the Thais work in offices and shopping malls. Starting in the morning, street stalls sell prepared fruit, ready-to-eat snacks, and other treats. They’re replaced by different cooks at lunchtime and in the evening. Until COVID, there was a food court behind the Central Department Store (the local Galeries Lafayette)—it was like a canteen for the people working in the area, and for us too... with authentic Thai quality and prices, not tourist prices. I assume it’s still there. There were also restaurants, of course. Every evening (6 out of 7 days), we’d buy mangoes with coconut sticky rice from the corner of Silom Road—the photo of the owner is on our kitchen wall!

Don’t miss mango sticky rice wherever you go (the rice can be blue, colored by butterfly pea flowers), Kao Soy in Chiang Mai—a local curry noodle soup with crispy noodles on top (you can find it at Picard)—and massaman curry, the favorite of Europeans. Massaman is a dish from the Muslim south, traditionally made with lamb, and it includes potatoes. Buddhists make it with chicken or beef. And don’t forget Chiang Mai sausages, pineapple pork served with dried pork... Safe travels and bon appétit! I see that the last little place we stayed at is still on Booking—it’s called Urban House and still has great reviews.
gaura
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
My take, really, is that with such a short trip, I’d pick just one of the three spots.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
GA Garcinlazare Regular ·
For the islands, if I were you, I’d just stay on Samui. From there, you can do the following day trips: - To Phangan for the day, leaving from Mae Nam with the Lomprayah catamaran (20-minute crossing). Hire a private taxi for the day and have them show you around the island. Lots of beaches, all as beautiful as each other, like Haad Son Beach, Chaloklum, Thong Naï Pan Yaï, and Haad Rien (the Full Moon Party beach). Avoid going a week before or after the party—way too crowded. The dates are easy to find online. - Ang Thong National Marine Park - Koh Madsum and Koh Rat by longtail boat - Koh Nang Yuan

For where to stay, based on what you’ve said, Crystal Bay beach is a great choice. There are 5 or 6 hotels right on the beach, almost all with a pool. At this time of year, the beach is at low tide, and the water is crystal clear. You’ll find restaurants nearby, including one that serves excellent French or Thai food at reasonable prices in a lovely setting. It’s also very clean. You’ll be just 3 km from Lamaï, with its night market, restaurants, and other attractions.

For the north, don’t forget you’ll be there during the rainy season, but that doesn’t mean it’ll rain every day or all day.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Hi there, I don’t quite understand your desire to visit so many places... You’ll spend all your time in transit, and choosing several islands doesn’t seem wise either. If you want to explore the north a bit, my advice would be to stick to Chiang Mai and its surroundings—there’s plenty to do within 50 km of Chiang Mai. Skip the rest, especially Chiang Rai. As for the islands in the Gulf of Thailand, I’d recommend avoiding Koh Samui. It’s become too polluted and overcrowded... I first visited this island in 1975—a little paradise where people lived off fishing and copra harvesting. Ten years later, things started to deteriorate (in my opinion) with the arrival of electricity and paved roads, then screens and "video"... Finally, with the construction of the airport came the era of concrete! The charm is gone. If you like crowds, noise, marine pollution, rarely clear water, and concrete, then Koh Samui might be for you—just like Pattaya, where the water might even be clearer. Koh Phangan has certainly changed a lot too, but I think there are still some quiet spots left on the island... If I were you, I’d stick to this island—it’s a bit more "natural."

We’d like to treat ourselves to a hotel with a pool.

Affordable hotels (with a pool) by a *khlong* where you can walk along the canal for a short distance to find a "boat stop" on the Chao Phraya, giving you the chance to get around all the tourist areas by river. Lamphu Tree House: https://www.tripadvisor.fr/Hotel_Review-g293916-d940156-Reviews-Lamphu_Tree_House-Bangkok.html
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi everyone, thanks a million for all your tips! Mango sticky rice is already one of my favorite desserts, and reading your posts makes me even more excited to be there!! Wishing you all a wonderful day
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi, thank you so much for this detailed reply. I’ll follow your advice and Jojoone1’s too! I’ll go over all the valuable tips everyone’s given me and fine-tune my trip to make it more realistic
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hello, You seem to know Samui well. Is the sea no longer crystal clear these days, or is it just at this time of year? Crowds and tourists don’t bother me—in fact, I chose Samui as the main island for our trip because I thought it was the perfect balance between city and beach. However, if the seas are a bit murky, that might be less appealing to us . Are there still some beaches you’d recommend over others in August in terms of water "quality"? Thanks so much for the accommodation tip—I’d seen it mentioned in a lot of posts too. Noted for Chiang Rai—everyone says to avoid that stop, so I’ll take your advice.
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi there, I really want to thank you for such a detailed response. It’s exactly all the info I needed to get organized. I get that it’s gonna be tough to find accommodation close to the Skytrain AND also want a lively neighborhood . And if taking a taxi, count on an extra hour in traffic jams. Good call on the luggage transfer directly through Thai Airways—I’ll look into it ahead of time.

Anyway, thanks to everyone for taking the time to reply. And for repeating the same thing to people who keep asking the same questions, whether out of ignorance or just to feel reassured

Have a great day!
GA Garcinlazare Regular ·
What Djalma says isn’t entirely wrong. If you stay on this beach, you’ll notice that in the morning and until around noon, you’ll be swimming in what feels like "Vittel" (bottled water). The water gets a bit murky with the tide, and if it’s crowded in the afternoon. It’s nothing like a Mediterranean beach where, by 11 AM, you’re dipping into a bacterial soup.
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
You seem to know Samui well. Is the sea no longer crystal clear these days, or is it just at this time of year? Crowds and tourists don’t bother me—in fact, I chose Samui as the main island for our trip because I thought it was the perfect balance between city and beach. However, if the seas are a bit murky, that might not be as appealing . Are there still some beaches you’d recommend over others in August in terms of water “quality”?

I wouldn’t say I *know* it well—I’ve been there at three different times, the last just after the airport was built… so that wasn’t exactly yesterday! I’m nostalgic for the days when there were no roads or electricity, and hardly any concrete except for a few buildings in the main village where you’d arrive on the island. All the “bungalows” back then were made of wood (bamboo) with palm-leaf roofs! Even in the very early days of tourism, I’d noticed that the water quality (clarity) was worse in all the Gulf of Thailand islands (Samui, Phangan, Tao, etc.) compared to the Andaman Sea islands (Phuket, Phi Phi, Lanta, etc.). Though I’m sure that also depends on the season… Since I’m mostly interested in what’s underwater (snorkeling, diving), I’ve always preferred the latter. That was until my last trip to Thailand/Malaysia: Koh Muk, Koh Kradan, Koh Lipe, Koh Tarutao… The two best for snorkeling were Koh Muk and Koh Lipe (though the latter is now overcrowded), and summer isn’t the best time to go there anyway.

At Samui, the most beautiful beaches (as always) are the busiest ones (Chaweng and Lamai), but since I prefer tranquility, I’d go for Bophut. My main interest was exploring the island’s interior, as snorkeling in Samui isn’t great—except maybe in a small cove I’ve forgotten the name of, in the south of the island.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Thanks also for your tip about staying in the "square" in Chiang Mai. I haven't started looking into neighborhoods for this city yet, but now I know what to prioritize! 😊

Great tip indeed. In the square, a quiet and charming area with guesthouses in alleys where two cars can barely pass each other (so it's pretty much pedestrian-only): just west of Tha Phae Gate in sois 1 to 5, which run north from Ratchadamnoen Rd up to Moon Muang Rd Lane 5.

Thanks to your feedback on Chiang Rai and others before you, I'm really starting to doubt whether it's worth adding this stop.

You’re wrong to doubt—go for it! Chiang Rai is also a lovely city to visit (and much less touristy than Chiang Mai) and deserves at least 3 to 4 nights to explore its nearby attractions: the White Temple, the Blue Temple, the King Mother Royal Villa and (especially) Garden (a must-see), the border vibe in Mae Sai, Chiang Saen and its majestic Mekong... Within the city, there are also some beautiful temples. Plus, the surrounding countryside is perfect for biking—try the area west-southwest of the old airport, right near the city. Cut down on beach time, and you’ll have time to go.

Mango sticky rice is already one of my favorite desserts

In the local language: khao niou mamouang.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
On this one, I totally disagree with you. The White Temple, for me, is exactly the kind of thing to avoid: recent, paid entry, ultra-touristy. Just like the Blue Temple, there’s no historical appeal—just flashy, concrete stuff.

Honestly, if the Chiang Rai area could compete with Chiang Mai, we’d have known about it ages ago.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Personally, when I suggested skipping Chiang Rai, it was just to give you more time by the sea or on the islands (like Phangan). When I used to travel to Southeast Asia with my family, I preferred the beach for the kids... Mine weren’t big fans of temples🤪
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Exactly, the main reason for skipping Chiang Rai is that the trip isn’t long enough to include it.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
SO Songsam Veteran ·
I totally disagree with you on this one. The White Temple, to me, is exactly the kind of thing to avoid: recent, paid entry, ultra-touristy. Just like the Blue Temple, there’s no real historical appeal—just flashy, concrete eye candy.

Yes, I completely agree that the White and Blue Temples don’t have much real interest and are mostly just eye candy, but they’re pretty. Now, whether it’s in Chiang Mai or Chiang Rai, why do people visit temples? For their history? I don’t buy that for a second—most go because they’re beautiful and photogenic, that’s it. As for the "paid entry" aspect, some of the most famous and visited temples in Chiang Mai are now paid too, so that’s not really an excuse in favor of the White Temple, but the facts speak for themselves.

Honestly, if the Chiang Rai region could rival Chiang Mai’s, we’d have known about it for ages.

Honestly, I’ve long thought that the Chiang Rai region can easily rival Chiang Mai’s for many of the same reasons—and others—and from all the time I’ve spent on forums, I know I’m far from the only one who thinks so. That said, I wouldn’t go so far as to say one is better than the other—both are worth seeing.
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
That’s a reasonable argument, I see your point.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
PA Partirdeloin Regular ·
On this one, I totally disagree with you. The White Temple, to me, is exactly the kind of thing to avoid: recent, paid entry, ultra-touristy. Just like the Blue Temple, there’s no historical appeal—just flashy, concrete eye candy.

Hello,

I don’t share your view on this either.

The "age" of a monument (temples in this case) doesn’t always determine its interest, just as being recent doesn’t automatically make it uninteresting.

While I find the White Temple delightfully kitsch, there are others like it elsewhere in Thailand. But the Blue Temple, which I’ve never seen another example of, is more unique and might justify a visit—plus, it’s free, unlike the White Temple (at least it was when I visited).

I think I read somewhere that the person behind the White Temple project was inspired by Gaudí and his Sagrada Família in Barcelona, which, like the White Temple, is still unfinished.

Going back to the old vs. new debate, in the same vein, I could take you to see some modern churches in France that, at first glance, wouldn’t even catch your eye. But inside, they hide little "treasures" that rival those in much older buildings.

Best regards,

Partirdeloin.
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi everyone, Sorry I’m not replying to everyone specifically. I get the "old vs. new" debate. Last year, I really wanted to go to southern Taiwan to see a monument (Dragon & Tiger Pagodas) because the pictures looked amazing. My dad tried to talk me out of it, saying it was just soulless new construction. We went anyway, and I totally saw what he meant when I saw the brand-new, shiny paint... Same with the Fo Guang Shan Monastery and its huge golden Buddha. Everything just seemed *too* new. Thanks for reminding me of that experience. It’s true that the Instagram-worthy blue-and-white temple in Chiang Rai initially drew me in. Or maybe for a future trip where I could spend several days there, enjoying the rice fields and nature around Chiang Rai.

In the meantime, I’ve spent days and nights searching for hotels. No problem making a choice for Chiang Mai, but I’m stuck on Koh Phangan and Koh Samui (we’re visiting both islands after all). It’s not easy finding the perfect place based on our criteria: AC, pool, beachfront if possible, and—most challenging—two beds (one double + one single). After reading all the negative reviews on Booking, especially about rocky beaches, coral, murky water, and the sea being un-swimmable due to low tide in August, I’m having a full-on depressive episode —not to mention all the stuff I’ve read about car rental scams... The flight tickets still aren’t booked, and my Google Flights alerts are telling me the nonstop fare has jumped to 4,300 € for the three of us. Great, even with a comfortable budget to start with, I feel like this trip is going to cost us a fortune. I totally get all your advice about not trying to do too much—yeah, traveling + accommodations add up fast.

Anyway, I’m wallowing in despair, but I also have the flu, my daughter does too, and we had to cancel Christmas tomorrow, so I’m just venting. Things will look up once I’m better and flight prices drop to 3,800 €

Happy holidays to all!
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
First off, sorry about this tough time—don’t get discouraged, just think of the heat and sunshine!

I’m not sure if it’s still the case, but airlines like Qatar often had great deals in the first half of January for summer travel. Keep an eye on that. Before COVID, you could find round-trip tickets for around 1000 € per person, but I’m afraid 1400 € might be a good price now. Any readers able to confirm?

Watch out for the Instagram effect. Where it goes, authenticity often disappears. Just in downtown Chiang Rai and especially Chiang Mai, there are tons of temples that are centuries old—it’s really something else. That said, it’s all about personal taste. Newer temples can be spectacular, aesthetic, and great for photos. Like the older ones, they’re dedicated to venerating Buddha and his teachings.

Don’t stress too much about hotel reviews—you’ll find everything and its opposite. Even by the sea, a hotel with a pool will at least save you from jellyfish, which are pretty common in that area.

Check out Agoda; it’s often cheaper than Booking. From my experience, August to January are the best months for prices if you’re booking for summer. Don’t wait too long—there are lots of Thais, Malaysians, Indians, and Chinese travelers, and they’re *extremely* numerous.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
GA Garcinlazare Regular ·
I’m getting back to you after reading this comment.

For rental cars, go with the international companies: Hertz, Budget, Avis, Sixt, etc. You won’t have any bad surprises, and you’ll be fully insured if you choose that option. I’d advise against renting from local agencies—you won’t have any guarantee of insurance, and I’m not even talking about the vehicle’s maintenance.

About the beach I recommended, I’ll say it again: what negative reviews have you read? Don’t forget that some people, for a relatively reasonable price, expect services worthy of a palace. It’s exactly the same with airlines.

Merry Christmas
WA Waterlily78 ·
hi, thanks for your encouraging words on this Christmas Day

"You’ve gotta be wary of the Instagram-worthy. Where it goes, authenticity dies." Exactly!

I also read about the risk of box jellyfish—so scary. But life’s an adventure

Yeah, I noticed Agoda had bigger discounts than Booking. I think once the holiday season’s over, airfares will drop a tiny bit. I’ll buy them once and for all, along with all the hotels, and that’ll be that.
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi, I took note about the "official" car rental companies. Good to know—I thought it’d be convenient to go directly through the hosts.

For accommodations right on Crystal Beach, unfortunately, for our dates on both Agoda and Booking, there’s only one place left, and it only has one bed for the three of us.

What do you think about the sea in the north in August around Mae Name Beach or Bo Phut Beach? There are quite a few places that would work for us there. That would also let us get closer to Fisherman’s Village and head to the night market in the evening. I’m saying this, but I think the night markets only start on Fridays, and we’ll be flying to Bangkok on Friday.

The opening days of night markets in Thailand are so confusing too—I planned my departure day from France to line up our days in Chiang Mai with the Saturday/Sunday Walking Street and our arrival at the end in Bangkok for Chatuchak Market, etc. You’ve got to think of everything!
GA Garcinlazare Regular ·
The risk of "box jellyfish" is zero for the period you're considering. Very high between October and December (rainy season). It’s not in Samui that you should look for "authenticity". There’s nothing authentic left there
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Don’t stress too much about hotel reviews—you’ll read one thing and its opposite. Even by the sea, a hotel with a pool will at least save you from jellyfish, which are pretty common in that area.

Love this tip!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
I said something really stupid and I don’t know what it was?
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
No no, no silly stuff... I love your safety-conscious side: the pool to avoid jellyfish in the sea. Good call! But you’re forgetting the sandflies on the beach ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
I’d shared this on the forum before: one day in July on Phangan, I let myself fall backward, arms spread out in the sea, right at the edge of the beach. Two or three months later, I found out that a child aged 5 to 7 had died almost in the same spot after coming into contact with one of those tiny jellyfish. Box jellyfish—one-third of the time, it’s fatal, and another third of the time, it leads to serious neurological damage.

Yeah, it’s pretty rare, but it’s the kind of thing I just can’t get out of my head.

Anyway, I’ve run into way fewer mosquitoes—I think they’ve all migrated to France [;)]
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
, I just found out that a child aged 5-7 died almost in the same spot after coming into contact with one of these tiny jellyfish. Box jellyfish are fatal in one-third of cases and cause severe neurological damage in another third.

That’s not very reassuring! In the end, the pool option is better... if it’s well-maintained!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
True, especially in the low season, some pools are only maintained when groups are staying there. I’ve seen places where the pool’s only purpose is to take a nice photo on the first day for booking sites. Overall, it’s acceptable. It all depends on the owner of the place.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
PA Partirdeloin Regular ·
Hi there,

For the "Instagrammable" side of things, if you're interested, you might want to check out this report here

Otherwise, my buddies have already given you plenty of great tips (by the way, we nickname our national Jojoone "Huggy the Good Tips" and even if it's not true, I just had to say it! [:p][:p])

Just a little extra tip for hotels—some allow kids to stay for free (check the age limit), often with a rollaway bed. Don’t hesitate to ask; it doesn’t hurt to try...

As for the islands, I can’t really help much since I’ve never been there and probably never will—unless I have a Thai friend with family there who invites me... Hey, a girl can dream, right?

Anyway, sorry to hear you’re feeling under the weather during the holidays. I hope you still have a pretty good time, and you’ll probably make up for it with New Year’s. Wishing you all the best!

Sending you a bit of tropical warmth (temperature-wise, no misunderstandings here...).

Best regards,

Partirdeloin
DJ Djalma Globetrotter ·
Love the video! [;)] That’s reassuring!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XCOyB7WStI https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g2eI67iCbKY
PA Partirdeloin Regular ·
Anyway, I ran into way fewer mosquitoes—I think they’ve all emigrated to France ;)

Hi,

If tiger mosquitoes are becoming more common in France, it’s because they’ve quickly figured out there’s more to snack on here. ;)

In Thailand, in a mixed Thai/farang group, you can bet the farang group will get hit harder by them. :/

Best,

Partirdeloin
PA Patrick91230 Globetrotter ·
Hi there,

There are much cheaper flights for August 2025. For example, departing on 06/08/2025 with a direct flight on Air Calin and returning on 26/08/2025 with a 1h35 layover in Ho Chi Minh City on Vietnam Airlines for 996 €. You can find even cheaper options, but with longer layovers.
Cordialement, Patrick.
SO Songsam Veteran ·
Hi,

The opening days of night markets in Thailand are also really confusing. I planned my departure day from France to match our days in Chiang Mai with the Saturday/Sunday Walking Street

Don’t get too excited by the word "market." This one (Sunday Market) is just a tourist market selling what Thai and foreign tourists usually like: souvenirs, t-shirts, food stalls, second-hand clothes, massage stands, local-style knick-knacks, small handicrafts, etc. I remember when the Tourist Police used to patrol the crowd with foreign officers in their home country uniforms. It’s not unpleasant to stroll around for an evening, but if you’re looking for a market where locals buy fresh produce to cook their meals, this is definitely not the right place. You can safely consider it an extension of the Night Bazaar, which offers the same kind of stuff and is located a bit further outside the square. The Night Bazaar is open every night, so no matter which days you’re in town, you’ll at least get to see one of these two similar attractions.

and our arrival at the end in Bangkok for Chatuchak Market

If you have a green thumb, it’s also open on Wednesdays and Thursdays for plants (plus a few other stalls, but to a lesser extent). It’s much quieter on those days than on the weekend.
PA Partirdeloin Regular ·
Just a little follow-up to my previous message regarding flight ticket prices for next summer, which adds to what Jojoone already told you.

I just received this from one of the airlines I use:

"Dear Madam / Sir ...,

As a member (loyalty program), we’re thrilled to give you an early heads-up that our promo offers to dream destinations are coming soon!

Set a reminder in your calendar for December 27, 2024! We’ll send you more details very soon.

Get ready to plan your 2025 vacations with , where your comfort and satisfaction are our top priorities."

This marks the start of the "sales season" at the beginning of the year, which, of course, many airlines will join.

So, it’s worth checking regularly what’s happening on that front.

That said, the recurring delays from aircraft manufacturers in deliveries are one of the reasons for high ticket prices. There’s simply more demand than available seats, and the airline market is governed by hyper-capitalist supply-and-demand rules (when it suits them)...

I’ll probably ruffle some feathers again by mentioning trains in Thailand, but one advantage of their system is that it’s not governed by this "law" of supply and demand. You pay the same price whether you book 6 months in advance or 1 month before. That said, you do need to be careful—not about the price, but about availability, since they don’t add extra cars or trains. Maybe one day that’ll change? But I’ll admit, I’m in no rush. If only SNCF, which is a state-owned company like here, could do the same...

As for the previous post mentioning much lower fares with multi-airline options, that’s certainly true, but they force you to finalize your purchase through the comparison site’s platform, which—as has often been discussed here and elsewhere—comes with huge risks if something goes wrong (delays, cancellations, strikes, etc.). For three tickets, personally, I wouldn’t take that risk, but to each their own...

Again, it’s worth repeating: using these sites to get an idea of what’s out there is fine, but for the actual purchase, always go to the airline’s official website if you don’t want your vacation to turn into a nightmare.

Best regards,

Partirdeloin
GA Garcinlazare Regular ·
Hi there,

Mae Nam is pretty quiet compared to Chaweng and Lamai. The beach isn’t as nice as Crystal Beach (just my opinion, no offense to anyone). You definitely won’t be fighting for space since it stretches for a few kilometers. I’ve never gone swimming at Bophut Beach. That said, just a few kilometers away, you’ve got two beaches at Thong Son Bay. Just so you know, once you get there, you’ll have to pay for parking . You’ll see that half the beach is busy (beachfront restaurants with sun loungers and access from a villa complex), while the other half is deserted. The downside is that trash isn’t cleared on the vegetation side . The second beach is to the right after passing some bungalows. It’s either deserted or frequented by naturists, depending on the time of year.

As for Bophut’s night market, it’s open on Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays.
GA Gaura Veteran ·
If you want to see the night markets, I can confirm that in touristy cities, they’re set up for Thai and foreign tourists, with Chinese trinkets and fake handicrafts. In the countryside, you’ll find real local markets with second-hand clothes, small rides, bouncy castles, good food, kitchenware, farming tools, and yes—Chinese trinkets too...

To experience a real market in Chiang Mai, head to Warrorot Market one morning by tuk-tuk. It’s a covered market where you can find everything, including lots of things we can’t even identify. Outside, there are stalls selling flowers and fresh produce (not to mention grilled sausages).

The deeper you go into the market, the less tourist-focused the products become. I bought teak spoons and other utensils there for cooking in my woks. You’ll also find pseudo-handicrafts. I saw Akha women in traditional dress making garlands from little multicolored fabric elephants mass-produced in Chinese factories... you’ll find the same ones in northern Vietnam.



















gaura
CH Chlipounii ·
I'm probably replying a bit late, but Green Papaya on Koh Phangan is great—it has a pool, is right by a beautiful beach, and we stayed there as a family of three with our 5-year-old daughter at the time! :)
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hello, We’ve actually booked everything already :) But it’s good to know that the beach near that hotel is nice!

By the way, I’ll take the opportunity to ask—does anyone know if, as a general rule in Koh Samui or Koh Phangan, when you see a nice hotel, you can go in and use the pool while ordering something at the bar/snacks for an afternoon or evening to enjoy the vibe? If you also recommend any spots on either island with fire shows or similar in the evening, that’d be awesome! Thanks!!
WA Waterlily78 ·
Hi everyone, we’re back from this amazing trip to Thailand! So, I’m here to share my story I tried to jot things down as we went along, so I’ll give lots of details hoping it’ll help those of you planning your future vacations—and if, like me, you had a thousand questions/anxieties before leaving These are just my personal opinions and what I learned on my first trip, so feel free to correct me if I say something silly.

We left from July 31 to August 18, so 19 days including flights, with my partner, my 7-year-old daughter, and me: International flight CDG > Bangkok Suvarnabhumi (Thai Airways) 4-hour layover in BKK, then domestic flight to Chiang Mai (Bangkok Airways) Day 1 to Day 5 = Chiang Mai // we stayed 5 nights in the old city near Phra Singh Day 6 - Domestic flight Chiang Mai > Koh Samui (Bangkok Airways), then ferry to Koh Phangan (Seatran) 2 nights on Thong Nai Pan Yai Beach 2 nights on Haad Yao Beach 1 night in Thong Sala to get closer to the pier Day 11 = Ferry Koh Phangan > Koh Samui (Seatran) 2 nights on Lamai Beach 2 nights in Fisherman Village Day 15 = Domestic flight Koh Samui > Bangkok (Bangkok Airways) 3 nights near MBK Center Day 18 at midnight = International return flight to CDG

First off, about the layover in Bangkok on the way to Chiang Mai—one of you advised me to take an airline that partners with Thai Airways so our luggage would go straight through without us having to pick it up, recheck it, or go through immigration, etc. That’s why I chose Bangkok Airways, and there were no issues with the luggage—it all went through smoothly (we still put AirTags on them just to track them). You have to mention it at the check-in counter in CDG. They put the tag directly on the luggage with Chiang Mai as the final destination. Since check-in at our hotel in Chiang Mai wasn’t until 2 PM, I didn’t want to stress us out after a long international flight, so I planned a 4-hour layover between the two flights. Honestly, we could’ve taken the earlier flight, but from what I remember, there was only an extra 1 hour and 40 minutes

As soon as you board the plane (departure at 1:40 PM French time), they consider you on Thai time. A meal is served within the first hour, which we thought was lunch, but then they immediately gave us a sandwich with another bottle of water. We didn’t understand why until they turned off all the lights. Turns out, for them, the meal was dinner, and the sandwich was in case you got hungry during the night. Sure enough, the lights only came back on 2 hours before landing when they served breakfast.

For info, when you exit the international flight in Bangkok, you end up in an area with McDonald’s, Burger King, a pharmacy, currency exchange booths, etc. That’s where we exchanged a little money just in case, while waiting to go to the exchange bureau I’d researched in Chiang Mai. We wanted to head straight to the gate for the domestic flight, thinking there’d be more shops after security (where they scan your bags and you have to toss your water bottles), but to our surprise, there was absolutely nothing after that. Just a drink vending machine and a tiny counter where you could buy the same drinks, coffee, chips, or sweet biscuits—nothing substantial—and of course, restrooms. So eat, walk around, etc., before heading to the terminal. You’ve got time; the transfer area is really small.

A few essentials, in my opinion, for a great trip: -We got an eSIM, and I honestly don’t know how we would’ve managed without it. It was great for geolocating when we were visiting temples on foot, planning our visits, buying tickets in advance on 12Go, etc. We each paid 8 € (including a welcome discount) for 10 GB, and it was enough—even though I had Google Maps open almost all day, and I checked social media a bit in the evenings. We still had 3 GB left when we got back.

-We used the Grab app for everything in Chiang Mai and Bangkok. Even if we didn’t take a taxi, it helped us know the fare for a given trip so we could negotiate with tuk-tuks or songthaews. There’s no Grab on Koh Phangan, but on Koh Samui, it seems InDrive is more popular. We used it once, and it was actually cheaper than Grab. Create your Grab account before you leave, and link your French credit card to it. That way, you won’t have to do it when you land. Note that the displayed price already includes all fees (like 20 baht for the Grab service, plus about 4 or 5%—from what I remember—for using a French credit card). You can also pay in cash for each ride, but we wanted to keep as much cash as possible. If you’re in a taxi and you like the driver, you can ask for their contact info, or often there’s a big sign in the back seat with their WhatsApp number. That way, you save 100-200 baht compared to booking through your hotel reception. Taxis are expensive on the islands (minimum 400 baht for even the shortest trip), whether you go through the hotel or contact the driver directly. But after seeing so many tourists with scraped-up arms and legs or covered in bandages, we decided to take taxis instead of renting a scooter. It worked for us since we were changing hotels/locations on the island every two nights anyway.

-A baht converter app, which lets you see at a glance if that little souvenir you’re eyeing at the night market is way overpriced. So if the seller refuses to negotiate, just walk away. Chances are you’ll find it somewhere else.

-One thing we learned about Thais: they’re VERY punctual. If your reservation says pickup at 8:30 AM, but you get a text saying meet at 8:20 AM, it’s not a lie to make sure you’re on time by 8:30 (like in France, lol ). It means they’ll be ready and waiting for you at 8:15. More broadly, all the flights were on time or landed about 20 minutes early. All the hotels let us check in even though we were 2 hours early.

-If you’re a woman or traveling with kids (not saying men don’t need this too [;)]), always bring tissues/toilet paper with you. Most public restrooms in night markets (which are paid, by the way, but 5 baht is nothing) or temples didn’t have any paper.

-Sunscreen, after-sun lotion, and UV-protective shirts are a must, at least for kids. Don’t underestimate those big gray Thai clouds. My partner and I got a massive sunburn on our first day in Koh Phangan after spending 3 hours in the rain in the sea. It even ruined a trip we’d planned to Ang Thong Marine Park, so it was really silly of us not to reapply sunscreen when the bottle was right there on the shore. You can spot the real tourists by the red shoulders Another thing that helped us a lot: beach shoes like slipstops. Super practical for rocks/coral (or broken glass) or just walking on scorching sand.

Next post on Chiang Mai (for those of you who had the patience to read this far)!
JO Jojoone1 Globetrotter ·
Congrats on your return. It’s not that common, and it shows how considerate you are toward others. For splitting up your trip, it looks like you’ve really balanced your own wishes with the advice you got.

I occasionally check the UV levels for Thailand now—something I never used to do—and I’ve noticed they’re consistently very high. You often see it on our Anglo-Saxon friends rocking a vanilla-strawberry or lobster look.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
WA Waterlily78 ·
Thanks for your message! [:)] Yeah, the UV index was very often at 11! I didn’t even think it could go above 10, since in the Île-de-France region, it rarely even hits 9 and that was already scarlet red on the weather apps.

Speaking of weather, I’ll take the opportunity to say that more than a month before our trip, I checked the forecast for Chiang Mai / Koh Samui - Koh Phangan / Bangkok every day, and every day it predicted rain, storms, etc. I was pretty desperate. Well, guess what? In 19 days, we only had heavy rain that actually disrupted our activities twice, and it lasted a maximum of 2 hours each time. Most of the time, it rained at night while we were sleeping (especially on the islands), otherwise, it was 90% just a big overcast sky. Thankfully, because on the rare occasions we had bright sunshine with no clouds, the heat made walks much harder. So don’t stress about the weather—even in the middle of August, it’s still very manageable. Maybe we were just really lucky, but the weather is something we can’t predict anyway. The key is to "go with the flow" and enjoy your vacation, whether it’s pouring rain or blazing sun.

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