Backpacking itinerary in Tunisia
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Translated into English.

Original post
FA
Hi there,

I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.

First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?

ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)

TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?

KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...

SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?

OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
MA Manondugard Regular ·
Hello,

I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November as a backpacker (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, to be adjusted.

First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule to book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south since I've already been there a long time ago and want to stay independent). I've roughly sketched the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few cities without budget accommodations (even on Airbnb), which makes me stay longer where they are available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (duration in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout on booking sites first, arrive, and book on the spot for cheaper (no site commission + possible negotiation)? And by the way, are hotels not listed on sites and found randomly on the spot much cheaper?

ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)

TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: Day trip to Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) - bring a picnic + option: Hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip): is it worth it? Doable alone?

KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...

SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: Day trip to El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day trip to Monastir? Is it worth it? + option: 1 day trip to Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?

OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone there? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?).

Thanks for your comments and opinions on the options. Once I've adjusted the duration, I'll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)

Hi, great idea not to book accommodations in advance except maybe the first two nights to get organized for the rest. (I travel this way on all my trips, and since I’m also planning Tunisia soon, I’ll do the same—it’s a win-win for you and the owner to negotiate on the spot with cash.) For the rest, I’ll trust the other forum regulars who know Tunisia well to answer you, and their info will be precious for me too! 😊
Christine
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Yeah, I often adjust as I realize I’ve gone faster (or slower) than planned on certain legs, or even just to follow the weather. But the only thing that bothers me here is that when I check the main accommodation booking sites, places with reasonable rates (10-20 €) seem really rare—or even nonexistent—in most cities! !
MA Manondugard Regular ·
Yeah, I often adjust as I realize I’ve gone faster than planned (or the opposite) for certain legs, or even just to follow the weather. But the only thing that bothers me here is that when I look at the main accommodation booking sites, places with reasonable rates (10-20 €) seem really rare—even nonexistent in most cities!

Try this site where you can find some for 7-10 €: https://www.hostelworld.com/fr/auberges-de-jeunesse/afrique/tunisie/ Or here for Sousse: https://www.hostelworld.com/fr/chambres-hotes/afrique/tunisie/
Christine
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi Julien, I’m not sure I can be much help since I don’t really do backpacking trips in Tunisia, but I’ll share a few thoughts about your plans. For convenience, I always use my own vehicle. But some friends are really happy traveling by bus. Between Sousse, Monastir, and Mahdia, you can take the Sahel Metro—it’s reliable and friendly. Personally, I’d steer clear of *louages* (shared taxis)—they scare me—but they’re also a great way to meet locals. Yes, I think a multi-destination trip makes sense. Since you’re arriving in Tunis, you could loop back via Sfax, Djerba, Tozeur, or Monastir. No need to retrace your steps. Transavia and Nouvelair often have good prices, but watch out for extra fees—cabin baggage, seat selection, etc. Last time I flew, Tunisair ended up being cheaper, and as a bonus, they served a decent free meal! It might actually be smarter to arrive in the north to take advantage of the weather, which can worsen as winter sets in, then head south where it’ll be milder. I’m not sure what you mean by "the desert in the south," but if you’re going that way this time of year, my top tip would be Tozeur and the mountain oases—Tamezret, Douiret, the *ksour* (fortified granaries). Have you heard of Chebika, Tamerza, and Midès? They’re really worth visiting in November. You didn’t mention Djerba—it seems like Djerba and/or Tozeur would be more interesting than Gabès, which I don’t find very appealing. But others might disagree. For Tunis, I’d add the Central Market and the modern city. Sidi Bou Saïd and Carthage—definitely. Dougga too. Zaghouan, I’m not sure—I haven’t been there in ages. Kairouan, yes, but maybe just a day if you can get there early and not on a Friday. Sousse—everything except Port El Kantaoui, which I don’t think is a must. It’s a pretty port with gardens, but it’s all hotels, shops, and kid-friendly attractions—meh. Yes to the Dar Am Taïeb Museum—discovered it recently. Check out the leather shop run by the owner’s nephew, at the top of the souks when coming down from the archaeological museum. Make sure to visit the Sousse souk *after* the museum, on your way down to the Great Mosque—not the other way around. El Jem—yes for the amphitheater, but also the small museum and the little restaurant across from it. Monastir—yes for Bourguiba’s mausoleum, the marina, and the ribat. I’d add the old presidential palace—it’s a bit out of the way but really interesting. Mahdia—my hometown! I’d say yes just for the massive marine cemetery, the ribat, and the Punic port. Gabès and Sfax aren’t my favorites, but Kerkennah is nice for a stroll—though I’d still pick Djerba. In November, after school holidays, there won’t be many backpackers, so you can book your stays the day before based on what interests you. Don’t hesitate to ask if you have more specific questions as your plans take shape.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, and thanks for all this info. I think I’ll have more specific questions later, actually.

For now, still trying to figure out the overall duration and which airports to use. 1. Length of stops: - For Tunis: does 5 days still sound good if we include the central market and the modern city (skipping Zaghouan for now)? - For Kairouan: you suggested one day—got it (maybe arrive at noon and leave the next day at noon). - For Sousse: I’m guessing 3 days is still fine, even without Port El Kantaoui? - For Monastir and Mahdia, I’ll plan at least one day each (if that’s enough), but do you have any suggestions on where to stay? Stay in Sousse and use the "métro du désert" for a round-trip day trip? Or stay in one of the two cities (maybe nicer, but what about prices?)? => Total: around 12–14 days, depending on transport and arrival/departure times.

Finally, about the "desert"—yes, I meant Tozeur and the oases, and probably the other places you mentioned. I was thinking of skipping them for three reasons, but let me know if this makes sense: - Twenty years ago, I did a guided tour with 3–4 days in a 4x4 (canyons, granaries, marabouts, dunes, mountain oases, Tataouine—I don’t remember all the names) and then 3 days at an all-inclusive hotel in Djerba. Well, I don’t travel like that anymore... - It seems like you *need* a guide and/or a car, which I’d rather avoid... - With everything else already planned, I’m not sure I’d have time to add something meaningful in two weeks (hence my mention of Gabès, though I’m not convinced).

Have a great evening.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
You could maybe make it shorter—4 days in Tunis—but you mentioned you easily linger in museums, so 5 days seems reasonable if you spend a good amount of time at the Bardo. Also, a full day in Carthage to see the dozen or so scattered sites (the ticket is combined), and half a day in Sidi Bou Said for the charm of this pretty village. Check the opening hours for La Maison du Baron d'Erlanger (the Museum of Musical Instruments), Dar El Annabi, and wander around the village in the late afternoon.

For Kairouan, I’d say one day on-site is enough to avoid expensive hotels.

Sousse: 2 days is plenty, plus a day in El Jem.

Monastir: half a day is enough, but do check the opening hours for the sites, especially the former presidential palace.

If you go to Mahdia, avoid Fridays—it’s market day, and it’s chaos.

For Monastir and Mahdia, I’d say half-days are enough, but in winter, everything often closes early in the evening.

Djerba: no need for a guide or tour operator—you can really get by on your own with taxis.

In Erriadh, besides the synagogue, artists have been painting in the streets for about ten years now, and it’s really nice to get lost in the alleys of this pretty village. I’d say that alone is worth the trip to Djerba.

For Tozeur and the mountain oases, a 4x4 isn’t necessary, but I’m not sure public transport runs smoothly.

The south—Tozeur, Douz, Matmata, and the ksour—is really great this time of year when it’s not too hot.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi, I haven’t looked at flights yet, so the duration might change a bit, but here’s a slightly more detailed version. I ended up adding Tozeur to vary the environments and because there’s an airport (and the Routard guide says the town itself is worth a visit). As for Djerba, I skipped it because I had to make choices and Tozeur seems more "different" from the rest of my trip (and also because I get the impression Djerba requires a car or taxis).

TUNIS Day 1: arrival, and depending on the schedule, visit the medina and/or colonial city Day 2: Zitouna Mosque, Tourbet El Bey Mausoleum, Dar Bach Hamba + medina and/or colonial city Day 5: Carthage (open daily 8:30 AM–5 PM) Day 3: Bardo Museum (closed Mondays) Day 4: Sidi Bou Said in the morning, incl. Dar El Annabi (half-day) & Maison du Baron d'Erlanger (Ennejma Ezzhara) + extra time in Tunis’ souk/medina on the way back Day 6: Round-trip to Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – bring a picnic Option: Zaghouan hike (750m+, 10km round-trip) – is it worth it? Doable solo?

SOUSSE (From Tunis: shared taxi 1h30, bus 3h) Day 7: medina, archaeological museum (9 AM–5 PM, closed Mon) Day 8: the Ribat (fortress), Dar Am Taïeb Contemporary Art Museum, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) Day 9: El Jem + museum (60km away: 1h by train, 1h30 by bus, 1h30 by shared taxi, last return at 5 PM) Day 10: Round-trip to Monastir (30 min on the Sahel metro): ribat, mausoleum, mosque, presidential palace if accessible Day 11: Round-trip to Mahdia (1h40 on the Sahel metro): Ottoman fort, marine cemetery, stroll

KAIROUAN (2 hotels at 60 DT in the Routard guide) Day 12: Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque... Day 13: Finish visits and/or bus to Tozeur (5h)

TOZEUR (3 hotels at 40–50 DT according to the Routard guide) (Bus from Kairouan if not on Day 13) Day 14: palm grove, Museum of Traditions Day 15: old quarter; Nefta (25km)? Option: visit something outside the city by taxi or public transport (but what?) Day 16: flight

Thanks everyone for your comments.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Bonus problem: returns from Tozeur don’t run every day, so either: - I do it in 15 days instead of 16, cutting out, say, the day in Monastir - I do it in 17 or 18 days, but then what should I add? Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, I already thought it was a bit of a shame to go to Tozeur without visiting the mountain oases... Make the most of it! It’s often the best day of the trip. If you don’t have a strict return deadline.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there,

My main constraint is the return flights from Tozeur, three days apart...

The *Routard* guide says that Tozeur itself is worth visiting, but it also mentions the three oases. The first two seem doable by *louage*: the one to Tamerza stops at Chebika on the way (last return from Tamerza around 3 PM). So I could plan them for Day 15 in the version without Monastir.

Question 1: If I start with Chebika, does anyone know if you can get to Tamerza afterward by hitchhiking or taxi, or if there are many *louages* passing through in the morning from Tozeur? Question 2: What’s the price for a round-trip taxi to visit all three oases from Tozeur? Is it common to share with other travelers?

If I’m going for 17 days, I still don’t know where to add an extra night since I feel like I’m already spending enough time everywhere... And I have this little uncertainty—I sometimes end up ahead of schedule when I realize I’ve seen all the planned sights at a stop earlier than expected...

Has anyone who’s been to Tozeur tell me if it’s a nice town to wander around aimlessly if I have "extra" days?

Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Tozeur is a really pretty little town with a beautiful palm grove where it's lovely to stroll around. Its brick architecture is very distinctive. However, you can explore it quite quickly. There's the small Archaeological and Traditional Museum in the Ouled El Hadef district, which you shouldn't miss. Souad, the museum's manager, will share her knowledge with a lot of poetry. I'm not sure what's still open at the Dar Cheraiet museum. You can walk to the belvedere, more for the panoramic view than for the slightly dilapidated sculptures (unless everything has been restored since my last visit), and go to the brickworks to see how bricks are made. I don't know if it's still the case, but there used to be two buses a day running between Tozeur and Tamerza, as well as organized excursions by travel agencies and hotels. Tamerza is quite busy, especially since it seems the Tamerza Palace hotel has reopened. In this region, I've even picked up hitchhikers before. To tell you where you might waste a bit of time, let me know how you're getting to Tozeur?
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
I'm thinking of heading there from Kairouan (4-5 hours by road, depending on sources, on the bus coming from Tunis).
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
So not via the south, otherwise you could’ve spent a day in Douz. I don’t know if the excursions with the Bey’s train in Metlaoui have resumed? Anyone know?
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi everyone,

It looks like the Lézard rouge has resumed service since last May, as part of the government's effort to revitalize Saharan tourism and remote regions.

Departure from Metlaoui station, easily reachable from Tozeur (or Gafsa) by *louage*, around 10–10:30 AM depending on the day of the week.

Check online for details.

Calaf
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Awesome! Thanks Alain for your reply. The reopening of the Tamerza Palace, the train du bey—all of this is moving in the right direction... So Julien, you can take the train du bey for a little stroll through the gorges of the Oued Selja. And also check out Alain’s older posts for things to do in Tozeur...
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Thanks to Calaf and you. I looked into it, and sure enough, some sites mention it reopening in May 2025. However, there’s no official site anymore. I found phone numbers, opening hours, and days that vary slightly depending on the sources (pre-2025), so I think I’ll have to ask once I’m there to be sure. Just in case, here’s the info for anyone interested or who wants to try: "Information and reservation Tel: + 216 76 241 469 Fax: + 216 76 241 604 Email: lezardrouge@topnet.tn"

Otherwise, I’ll ask again upthread in case Calaf has an idea: "If I start with Chebika (by louage), does anyone know if you can get to Tamerza by hitchhiking or taxi afterward, or if there are many louages passing through in the morning from Tozeur?" I’ll add: for the return from Tamerza, are there louages without any problem if it’s not too late, like after lunch? Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
I assume the buses still go from Tozeur to Tamerza?
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi there,

Every time I’ve visited the mountain oases—often—I’ve done it in a rental car from Tozeur. I love being completely independent and not relying on anyone or anything... So I don’t want to give out wrong info, but the locals in Tamerza and Mides *do* have to get around—there’s not much up there—so there are buses or *louages*... BUT: how often do they run? I’d say don’t miss them! Your best bet is to ask at the bus station, right in the center of TZ, on the main road toward Nefta.

Have a great trip!

Calaf
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Ah, I think seeing all these excursions, shared taxis, mentions of *louage*, etc., I assumed there weren’t any buses! The SNTRI does list "Tamerghza"... But like in other countries, can you flag down a bus on the road in Tunisia (in Chebika, for example) and buy your ticket from the driver?
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, Here’s the latest version of my independent 15-day itinerary (it’s a bit tight since I added Zaghouan for variety, but I’ll drop Monastir if needed). Any comments, warnings, clarifications, or suggestions are welcome!

TUNIS Sat 1: arrival around 1 PM, visit the medina and/or colonial city Sun 2: Carthage (open daily 8:30 AM–5 PM) Mon 3: Zitouna Mosque, Tourbet El Bey Mausoleum, Dar Bach Hamba + medina and/or colonial city Tue 4: Bardo Museum all day Wed 5: Round-trip to Dougga (2-hour bus to Tebersouk + taxi) – pack a picnic Thu 6: Hike in Zaghouan (4–5 hours round-trip), check bus schedule to Zaghouan (Bab Alioua) Fri 7: Sidi Bou Said, including Maison du Baron d’Erlanger (Ennejma Ezzhara) & Dar El Annabi (Train at 5:20 PM or bus at 4 PM to Sousse.)

SOUSSE Sat 8: medina, archaeological museum (9 AM–5 PM, closed Mon) Sun 9: The Ribat (fortress), Dar Am Taïeb Contemporary Art Museum, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) Mon 10: Mahdia (1h40 min by Métro du Sahel): Ottoman fort, marine cemetery, wander around Tue 11: Round-trip to Monastir (30 min by Métro du Sahel): ribat, Bourguiba Mausoleum, mosque, presidential palace if accessible Wed 12: El Jem + museum (60 km away: 1h30 by bus or louage, last return at 5 PM)

(Bus to Kairouan, 1 hour)

KAIROUAN Thu 13: Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque... Fri 14: Finish visits and/or bus to Tozeur at 2 PM or 4 PM (4–5 hours)

TOZEUR Sat 15: Chebika oasis by louage (confirm return, with the same driver or by flagging a regular bus?), then medina Sun 16: Little train from Metlaoui at 10 AM or 10:30 AM, then return: palm grove, Museum of Traditions Mon 17: Morning flight.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, This schedule’s pretty packed, but I think it’s worth it for the variety. On Day 3, to get to Zitouna Mosque, you’ll walk through part of the souks. I’m not sure which city to drop—Monastir or Mahdia—what do you all think? For Chebika, we’d need to plan ahead so we can also make it to Tamerza. Have a great trip! !
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Julien,

Did you end up making your trip to Tunisia?

I’m thinking of going for two weeks in February and I’d really like to know if it’s not too complicated to get around by public transport?

Thanks in advance.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, Yes, I’ve done it, and no, it’s not difficult. I’d suggest taking advantage of being near bus stations (like when you arrive!) to check the schedules for your next leg. My hotels weren’t always well-informed, and not all companies have websites. And of course, if buses are scarce, there are always *louages* (get there early to wait less).

The only slightly tricky spot was Tozeur: to visit the mountain oases without spending the night (because in that case, there’s a bus that returns to Tozeur in the morning, I think), you *must* take a *louage*, and there’s only one per day that leaves around 7 AM and returns around 11 AM–12 PM. Plus, it doesn’t go to Midès (but mine took me there alone with an extra 20 dinars, including a one-hour wait). So it’s impossible to do all three visits in one day by *louage*. That said, the tourist office, like other locals, told me hitchhiking on this road was doable. Note that you can also walk in the canyon between Midès and Tamerza. So between *louage*, walking, and hitchhiking, you should be able to do everything in a day. For my part, I passed through Tamerza but didn’t visit it.

Finally, the little "Lézard rouge" train wasn’t running due to a transfer of operations from one company to another.

Happy travels!
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there! So how was your trip? You’re not telling us— What was your itinerary? Which stops did you make? Your highlights, your disappointments?
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks Julien for all these details—it reassures me about getting around.

But for a woman traveling alone, I’m not sure if hitchhiking is safe.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi Mraissa,

I followed the exact route I posted earlier, with one change to the schedule: I had planned an extra day in Tunis (my whole itinerary was actually quite flexible), so I ended up with an extra day in Tozeur, which was really too much, especially since the Metlaoui train is closed due to a change in operator.

My absolute favorite was probably the medina of Kairouan (and I loved the mosque in the same city, Dougga, the tip of Mahdia with a stunning stormy sky, the Bardo Museum, Sidi Bou Said, Chebika, and the hike in Zaghouan was really refreshing).

As for disappointments, Monastir (let’s just say the fortress is nice, but that’s about it—I even went to Sayada to fill the day), and Carthage wasn’t very interesting either (I think you can stick to the area around the museum (closed) and its view, plus the Antonine Baths, all in half a day)...
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi! Since you mentioned it took you twice as long as other visitors, I thought your itinerary was reasonable.

Aside from the Métlaoui train, were you able to do all the planned visits? Even if the train isn’t running, you can still walk around the western Selja gorges on foot.

In Tozeur, did you go to the small Souad museum? Is Dar Cheraiet open?

In Monastir, did you visit the Bourguiba Museum in the former presidential palace? The ribat, the mausoleum, the museum, the waterfront, the marina—did you also find time to go to Sayada?

Sayada isn’t very interesting except for the weekend market...
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Yeah, but that’s normal—there’s bound to be a bit of adjustment over such a long trip. But I can confirm I took my time with the visits, whether it was museums, archaeological sites, or even wandering around the medinas on a whim (both day and night to catch the lighting effects). Otherwise, yes, I did all the visits listed in my program, plus a few extras (I had the *Routard* guide).

For Tozeur, I had no idea about the gorges without the little train... I skipped the small medina museum (though I visited the medina itself twice), but I went to Dar Cheraiet (there are now only two sections, so two ticket options—the one the *Routard* says is better for kids isn’t available anymore). I also went to the palm museum in the palm grove (I forgot its name) and, to wrap up the day, the belvedere with the giant molded faces on the promontory. It’s a tourist nightmare: hordes of ATVs zigzagging between visitors and camels, (local) tourists shouting, buses honking—almost a caricature of the worst tourism can offer. In a way, it’s interesting to see from the belvedere, but the most surprising part is that all the chaos dies down (a bit) BEFORE sunset, so you can actually watch it from above without too much disturbance. For my part, I was chatting with a friendly old camel driver who organizes bivouac excursions in the desert, so I actually have good memories of the whole thing and went back twice!

For Monastir, I left Sousse early in the morning. I didn’t go to the presidential palace, but I don’t remember why (did I completely forget about it, wasn’t it in the guide, or was it too far?). On the other hand, I did visit the mausoleum, then the cemetery, then the marina (and its pile of out-of-service boats in a corner—so strange!), then the tip of the peninsula behind the marina, with its former tennis courts (on a wind-swept plot!), and the ribat for sunset. As for Sayada, I went there after lunch when I wasn’t sure what else to visit. After passing an uninteresting (and closed) site listed in the *Routard*, I lucked out by continuing randomly toward the coast and following it to the fishing port, which was pretty nice with its colorful boats. They even took some photos of me (I looped around by arriving at one station and leaving from another).
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Michèle,

I see you know Tunisia well. I’m heading there in mid-February for 14 full days, and I think I’ll stick to the northern half of the country. It’s my first trip there.

I’ll be getting around by public transport (train and bus).

Do you know Le Kef? Is it worth including in a short trip at this time of year (weather-wise)?

Thanks in advance.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi Marie, If this is your first trip to Tunisia, I’d say it’s a shame you’ve chosen the northern part in February. Generally, at this time of year in the north, it can be quite cold, damp, and windy. This is actually the perfect time to head toward Tozeur, Douz, and the mountain oases—maybe even Djerba. The south will be much milder. It’s been a long time since I’ve been to Le Kef, but it’s a pleasant destination, though not absolutely exceptional—it really depends on the route you’re taking. I’m not sure it’s worth the time and cost... It’s likely to be quite cold there, and most budget hotels don’t have heating, so personally, I’d avoid it. It all depends on your tastes and what you’re looking for. Have you booked your flight tickets yet? Which airport are you arriving at? If I may suggest—and if you’re not attached to a particular region—consider changing your plans, land in Tozeur or Djerba, and do a multi-destination trip so you don’t have to backtrack to your arrival airport. We can chat about it.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks for your reply.

I’m gonna book the ticket today. I was planning to arrive and leave from Tunis, but I might take your advice because I know bad weather can really ruin the trip. Cold isn’t too much of an issue in big cities where there’s plenty to do indoors, but otherwise, it’s a problem.

Otherwise, I’m not specifically looking for "backpacker" accommodations.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
... big cities where there’s plenty to do indoors ... Yes, if like in our cities, museums, shops, and other places are heated. In Tunisia, not everyone has central heating—far from it—and it’s actually indoors where it can get cold, like hotel bathrooms or even bedrooms and inside houses. We’re used to dressing warmly when we go outside, so it’s not too much of a problem. Personally, at this time of year, I’d recommend flying into Tozeur and returning from Djerba—but maybe not enough to fill 15 days, unless you’re quick with your visits, in which case you could return via Monastir. On Transavia or Nouvelair, you don’t need to buy the tickets together. But watch out for prices—it’ll be the French school holidays. Don’t forget it’ll be Ramadan, so many places where cafés and restaurants will be closed at lunchtime and often in the evening too. But everywhere, you’ll need to plan to cover up. Since Fayech’s original post was "backpacker itinerary in Tunisia," I’ve kept that in mind...
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
I finally booked a ticket with arrival and departure from Tunis. In winter, there are few direct flights from Nice to Tunisia, so I’ll reserve the first few nights in Tunis and then decide based on the weather.

For sightseeing, I like to take my time, and I usually stay at least three nights in one place. I’m not going to try to see all of Tunisia in 14 days!

I didn’t realize it was Ramadan—this will be my first time visiting a Muslim country during Ramadan. I hope everything won’t be closed.

By the way, someone mentioned Tabarka—what do you think of it?

I posted my question in this thread because, like Faiyech who started it, I also travel by public transport and I’m going for roughly the same length of time as them.

Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to reply, and if I have any other questions, I’ll start a new thread.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi there,

I’ve stayed at the Tiba Hotel in Tunis before—it’s right in the city center, just 5 minutes from the Medina and 50 meters from Avenue Bourghiba. The price is really reasonable, even if the rooms are a bit small.

Address: Rue Ali Bach Hamba, Tunis, Tunisia Phone: +216 71 240 322

It’s a great spot for a few nights.

Have a great trip!
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks Alain for this address!

Either way, I’ll post a review when I get back.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi, Tabarka is a really beautiful destination in the summer since it's in the north, so it's a bit cooler than the other coastal spots. This time of year might be a little chilly. Going via Ghar el Melh, Raf Raf, Bizerte, Cap Serrat, and Sidi Mechrig lets you explore the rugged northern coastline. Inland, it's a slightly mountainous region with vast fields. You should check out Sejnane for the pottery made by local women—it's now famous beyond Tunisia’s borders. Aïn Draham, Jendouba, Le Kef, Kesra, and Makthar are villages and towns worth discovering. Dougga is definitely the most stunning archaeological site to visit in Tunisia. Even during Ramadan, you can always find a small grocery store to buy bread and a can of tuna or *La Vache qui Rit*. Just be mindful of the schedules around *iftar* (the breaking of the fast), as public transport and life in general come to a halt. And often, it doesn’t start back up again. Many shop owners take advantage of this period to close and do renovations. Plan your stops carefully—there aren’t many hotels or transport options in this region.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

Thanks for all this info, especially about Ramadan and transport!

I’m guessing it also affects the opening hours of museums and other tourist sites? Given the timing, maybe it’s best if I stick to more touristy areas.

For now, the places I’d like to see include the Bardo in Tunis, Dougga, Kairouan (and maybe head to Sbeitla from there?). Everyone’s also raving about Sidi Bou Said, but I hear the visit is pretty quick.

I never plan a precise route, but based on what you’re saying, it might be better to do so this time.

Thanks again for all the details.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Of course, Sidi Bou Saïd—you’ll want to see the Baron d'Erlanger’s house, and if you’ve got time, Dar El Annabi. Wander around the port and the heights, then grab a tea at Café des Nattes—it’s the perfect spot to hang out...

Not so quick, either—you can easily spend 2 or 3 hours at the Baron’s house or the Ennejma Ezzahra palace.

Getting there is super easy with the TGM (Tunis-Goulette-Marsa train).

If you’ve got a little extra time, take a stroll to La Marsa and check out the French ambassador’s residence, Dar Kamila. Lovely spot!

In Tunis, don’t miss the souks, the modern city, and the weekly market...

The Bardo, Kairouan, and Dougga are must-sees, of course.

I think a lot of restaurants close during the day for Ramadan and only a few reopen in the evening. Some use this time to do renovations.

Definitely plan ahead and double-check that your plans can go ahead during this period and what the hours are.

Be extra careful with transport schedules, too.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks so much, Michèle, for all this extra info!

I’ll "get to work" on the planning, and if I have any more questions, I’ll come back to you.

Anyway, I think going to Tunisia during Ramadan could be a really interesting experience—it’s a chance to discover the country in a different way.

While searching online, I saw that in 2025 there’ll be light displays in Tunis during Ramadan (Medina of Lights), but I haven’t found anything for this year. In Kairouan, during the second half of Ramadan, there’s the Festival of Sacred Music, but I won’t be there anymore.

Thanks again for all your tips!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Mraissa,

I’m getting back to you to ask if you have any idea about the taxi fare from Tunis Airport to the Medina (I haven’t booked my hotel yet, but I’m thinking of staying in that area—anywhere nearby, really).

Do you need to negotiate the price, or is there a fixed rate from the airport? Also, do the taxis have meters?

I had a really bad experience in Warsaw, so now I’d rather know how things work beforehand.

Thanks in advance.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, Generally, it's around 20 dinars for 15/20 minutes. But to avoid any nasty surprises, make sure to agree on a price before you set off. Prices are often 50% higher at night. Taxis do have meters, but they only use them if they feel like it... Otherwise, there are also buses 35 and 635 that go from the airport to Tunis Marine station, which is at the bottom of Avenue Bourguiba. I don’t know if you’ve been following the recent weather events that have hit Tunisia, but places like Sidi Bou Said, for example, have experienced severe flooding that might affect your trip. Outside of Tunis, many towns in Cap Bon and the Sahel region have suffered from flooding and rough waves, and the seafronts have been badly damaged. I’m currently in Mahdia, and the temperatures are cold and it’s very humid. Pack a lightweight rain jacket or a rain poncho in your luggage—it doesn’t take up much space... When you book a hotel, don’t forget to ask if there’s heating. Interiors without heating can be freezing. When are you leaving?
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

Thanks for the info about taxis—I’ll make sure to ask for the price before we leave.

I’m leaving on February 15th.

Since you mentioned it could be cold, I’ve made sure to book hotels with heating and pack warm clothes!

While looking into what to expect during Ramadan, I saw some reports in the Tunisian press about bad weather, but I didn’t realize it was that serious.

For now, my route looks like this: Tunis (with Carthage and Sidi Bou Said), Hammamet, Sousse, and Kairouan. I haven’t really "planned" the areas around Hammamet and Sousse yet or my exact stops.

Thanks again for all the great tips!
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

In the Tunisian press, I saw that even today Tunisia is on alert for violent winds and heavy rainfall. They really haven’t been lucky—going from drought to destructive floods. With climate change, this is unfortunately the case in many countries. I hope these new storms won’t cause too much human or material damage (buildings, agriculture, etc.).
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, The climate situation is indeed quite worrying. Here in the east-central region, it's still very windy but no rain yet today—unlike the past few days. I took a little walk on the beach this morning and noticed that, on top of the piles of seaweed, the sea is washing up some of the trash that’s been dumped in it. It’s not a pretty sight—all the little beach huts used as cafés and the permanent structures have been devastated, along with the walls along the corniches that protect against the sand. There are also storm warnings in the south, but I imagine the temperatures are milder down there...
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Here in the eastern center, still a lot of wind but no rain yet today

Storm warnings in the south too

I’d read that all of Tunisia was on orange alert today—the bad weather is also hitting parts of Morocco and Algeria.

Last night, I was watching an ARTE show on YouTube about Tunisian cuisine (specifically from Cap Bon), and they showed a family harvesting bitter orange flowers. They were complaining because the flowers were yellow due to the drought, and they were really worried about the groundwater levels. One family member had given up growing these flowers to switch to strawberries, but with the drought, the strawberries weren’t very big. This was near Nabeul, and I think this region has been one of the hardest hit by the recent floods...

Hopefully, for Tunisians, the situation will improve quickly so they can get everything back on track for the high season.

Otherwise, yes—depending on the season, the sea and the streams flowing into it leave a lot of waste on the beach. I noticed this in Central America too; it was also "winter" there. Lots of plastic straws, plastic bottles, toys, etc., and a strong sewage smell where the streams emptied out.
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Mraissa,

Are you still in Tunisia? I saw that the bad weather just won’t let up—heavy rain was forecast for the South today.

I read that it’s a disaster for agriculture, especially citrus fruits, strawberries, and potatoes. A lot of sheep have died too. It’s unprecedented in 70 years.

In the French online press, there are articles about Sidi Bou Said saying these storms have put the village in danger (they mention it was already at risk before), with rocks breaking off cliffs and falling into the streets, shops closed, etc. I had no idea things were this bad.

It’s the whole Mediterranean basin that’s affected—today there are floods in southern Spain, Morocco too, and we don’t know when it’s going to stop....
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there! Yes, we’re still in Tunisia, and we’re supporting the local economy—cough syrup, throat lozenges, Doliprane, emergency doctor visits, and even a specialist for my husband... 😷 The weather still isn’t great, but it’s a bit more normal today—mild and humid. A friend told me yesterday that Djerba is actually quite pleasant. As I mentioned before, February is really a good time to visit the south, but not the north. For us, we’ll be leaving on the 20th, at the start of Ramadan, because for us, this period has more downsides than advantages. In Mahdia, there are few festivities during this time, and if there’s any entertainment, it’s usually in the last few days before it ends. As for Sidi Bou Said, the village is built on a fragile hillside. Building permits are more or less processed, and it’s clear that construction or expanding existing buildings—like we’ve seen recently—should no longer be allowed. Tourists will also need to learn to walk a bit more, and buses shouldn’t be allowed to drive up and park at the top of the village. Even the placement of small shops around that famous parking lot needs rethinking. We didn’t go this time, so I can’t really say what it’s like now. Let us know what you find if you go! Don’t hesitate to ask if you need tips or info.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Michèle,

Thanks for asking about Tunisia!

At the moment, I know I’ll be landing in Tunis on Sunday, February 15th, and I’m supposed to leave on the 19th or 20th to continue my trip—but where to? It’ll depend on the weather. If it’s really bad, I’ll grab a flight ticket to Djerba or take a bus to Tozeur.

In Tunis on the 16th, I’m planning to visit the medina. The next day, I’ll check out the Bardo before Ramadan starts (officially on February 19th, I think), though museums might have reduced hours. Before leaving Tunis, I’d also love to see the medina at night during Ramadan, after the fast breaks.

I’ve been looking for info on Ramadan nights in Tunis but can’t find anything for 2026. For previous years, I saw that there’s a cultural center dedicated to stambali that hosted special Ramadan evenings—I’d be interested in that, but I haven’t found anything for this year yet.

Finally, I was planning to skip Sidi Bou Saïd because of the damage from the bad weather (I’m really disappointed), but I’ll see what people say on the ground to decide if I can still go.

I wish I’d taken your advice to land in Djerba and spend my time there, especially since I think the bad weather isn’t over yet....
" Celui qui voyage sans rencontrer l'autre ne voyage pas , il se déplace " ( Alexandra David-Néel )

" Ahora todos quieren ser latinos , no , ey , pero les falta sazon , bateria y reggaeton " ( Bad Bunny )
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi, I still think you should visit Sidi Bou Said, even though there’s been some damage. It seems the Baron’s Palace is open. You won’t have anything to compare it to, but Sidi Bou Said will surely still have a lot of charm despite the scars. And it’s not far from Tunis, so you’re not taking any risks. For the rest, museums are usually closed on Mondays. Markets also tend to have little activity on Mondays, and none on Friday afternoons. During Ramadan, life slows down a lot—especially transportation—and many shopkeepers and restaurant owners take time off. If you’re planning to fly here, it’s probably because your tickets aren’t changeable—too bad! There are no charter flights here, which makes domestic flights relatively expensive. Information about events is usually only available at the last minute. Yesterday, it rained for most of the day; today, no rain yet, but it’s gray and windy.
La terre entière est ma patrie et la famille humaine est ma tribu.

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