A Month in Laos and Cambodia

And since you've been well-behaved (not that there's been a crowd since the site reopened ;)), here's a little photo post from the area:



















We hesitated for a long time, but the backpack was full...

Okay, the tricky question because I had booked a "package" with a guide that included everything: tuk-tuk, driver, guide, entry to the villages, and boat (65$ pp). Except for meals and the 3-day Angkor pass (62$).

Ah, got it. I was wondering how to do it again if my trip to Cambodia happens. We had the same service through an NGO. It was a bit more expensive, but part of the profits went toward supporting the villages (especially the schools). We were alone, a couple in a boat with a guide and a woman who drove us.

But for us, it was our first visit, so we were just left with the magic of the place...

So, 3 days at Angkor—is that too much?

So Angkor over 3 days... isn't that a bit much?

No, it's not too much, especially since we alternated with Tonle Sap in between. I would’ve even liked a bit more time to "explore" more remote, "rustic" temples—to get a feel for what Agnès might’ve experienced in those quieter spots. Afterwards, the least bearable part was the afternoon heat; the pool back at the hotel was a welcome relief in the evenings...

Absolutely right, 3 days is even too short for those who aren’t just passing through. Not to mention that several sites are kilometers away from Angkor. For our part, we would’ve needed at least a 5-day itinerary.

Hi there, we’re heading to Cambodia in February 2025 and Angkor is definitely on our itinerary. Could you possibly send me the contact details for your French-speaking guide via PM or otherwise?

Thanks in advance.

Sunday 7th to Thursday 11th January: The Beach

I had a beach stay on my checklist with my travel buddies. Not an easy task in this country—Cambodia isn’t exactly known for its beaches, and I didn’t want to head back to Thailand to avoid too many flights mid-trip. After a night on the bus, which went via Phnom Penh, we arrived in Sihanoukville. This huge beach town didn’t seem all that interesting from what we saw, but it’s where we caught the speedboat to Koh Rong Sanloem, next to Koh Rong.





We picked this island because it’s said to be quieter and especially better for scuba diving, which Mariel loves. We also chose Saracen Bay Resort, the most beautiful hotel in the bay, for our 4 nights in paradise. And the choice—aside from the cost (nearly $100 a night)—turned out to be spot on!





Four days out of time, lulled by the sound of waves, punctuated by the passing tractors—the only way to get around the island.





That said, Koh Rong Sanloem isn’t much more interesting beyond what it offers: a stunning bay in the middle of crystal-clear waters. I’d even say the post-Covid era has left its mark—we saw a few abandoned resorts, and the overall state of the bay could spark some debate... Not to mention the other side of the coin when you wandered inland. But we were on the most beautiful part of the bay, with perfectly clean sand.

So, four days of pure relaxation, with a few hikes around the island, a day of diving (or snorkeling for the rest of us), massages, and other beach activities. Not many dining options, but the hotel’s chef more than delivered at pretty reasonable prices (that private beachside barbecue is still a highlight...).

But as they say, all good things must come to an end (though why, really?). Back to the mainland on Thursday afternoon, then a daytime bus back to Phnom Penh for our last few days of the trip.

Thursday 11th to Saturday 13th: Phnom Penh

So it’s around 9 PM when our shared van drops us off at its final stop. Two days left for us, a few more for our friends. Here again, the long anticipation of our trip (and the fact we were a group of four) let me pull out all the stops. A little off the city center, we’ll be staying at the Peninsula Phnom Penh. A stunning two-bedroom apartment on the 17th floor, rooftop and pool on the 25th, an extraordinary view of Phnom Penh—all for $75 per couple per night, including breakfast at Eric Kayser!! By far our best choice on the trip, and a great way to wrap it up!!!



View from my bed!

French-style breakfast

. Was it the hotel choice or the end of the trip, but we loved Phnom Penh. The *Routard* guide and what I’d picked up here and there had really undersold it, but the three days we spent there were great. No physical guide this time—just the Grab app (100% approved) for getting around and my paper guide for the main sights. But it was the nighttime vibe we preferred, since the days were just too hot...













. But Saturday arrives, and we have to leave our friends and these amazing countries. It’s with a heavy heart that we head to the airport in the late afternoon for another three flights—via BKK and Abu Dhabi—back to Geneva....

And the Verdict?

Well, yeah, what’s the final take on this month in Asia?

Overall, it’s excellent. Our last trip to this part of the world was in Vietnam, and the weather didn’t help. I was a bit put off by how commercialized (?) the people we met seemed—like we were just walking dollar signs. Here, especially in Laos, it’s all about kindness.

Personally, I loved having my friends along. Turns out they’re great company (and almost always on time!)

I fell in love with Laos—at least what I saw of it. My only regret is not staying longer and having to make tough choices. The vibe is great, the smiles feel genuine, and the food is amazing! Next time, though, I’d probably do less motorbiking (that round trip from Pakse to Don Det really takes a toll on your backside!)

Cambodia also left a great impression. I expected Angkor to be more overrun with tourists, but hiring a guide was a fantastic idea. Four days there is the bare minimum.

A big downside, though: Koh Rong Saloem. The island just isn’t (or isn’t anymore?) up to par.

Phnom Penh was a pleasant surprise—thanks to our hotel and the four days we spent on Koh Rong, we were ready for some city energy.

So, all in all, a winning return to Asia. I’m already itching to go back, and November’s got me missing the warmth of the places and the people... Thanks for following along! [:P]

Was it the choice of hotel or the end of the trip, but we loved Phnom Penh. The Guide du Routard and what I’d picked up here and there had really sold it short.

Sometimes the Routard guides are way off! I loved it: great walks through the markets, the Royal Palace, a fun vibe early in the morning when people are doing their gym, and excellent food!

One big downside for Koh Rong Saloem—the island’s overall condition isn’t (no longer?) up to par.

Maybe Koh Rong would’ve been a better choice?

And thanks for following along :P

I had a blast :P

Thanks for this travel journal—it really makes me want to buy a flight ticket to Laos right away! ![;)]

For beach time, I’d gone to Sihanoukville and stayed at the historic Independence Hotel. The beach was great. The rest of the seaside resort, though...

Another travel journal, one of the more recent ones, with quality far above what we’ve too often been shown. Useful info, insightful reflections, pleasant images—real quality, you know?

Thanks for this awesome travel journal—it brought back great memories and made me want to head back to Southeast Asia!

At Le Routard, they can be real donkeys sometimes! I really enjoyed it: lovely strolls through the markets, the Royal Palace, great vibe early in the morning when they do their gym, and excellent food!

Oh, we totally agree! A capital city on a human scale... As for Le Routard, I’m finding it harder and harder to rely on them— they really need to step up their updates...

A big downside for Koh Rong Salmoen—the overall state of the island isn’t (no longer?) up to par.

Maybe we should’ve chosen Koh Rong instead?

We’ll never know. But even the snorkeling was disappointing—we were expecting more marine life...

Well, if I’ve managed to make you want to go back, challenge accomplished! [;)] Thanks for your interest, and see you soon for new adventures!

Thanks for this travel journal, Bruno—always a pleasure to follow you along! [:)]

Another travel journal, among the most recent, of a quality far superior to what we’ve too often been shown. Info, insightful reflections, pleasant images—quality stuff, really.

Coming from a sector specialist, that means a lot!!! Thanks for reading

Thanks for this travel journal, Bruno—always a pleasure to follow you! [:)]

Thanks to you! This part of the world isn’t your usual travel spot, huh? [;]

Thanks, this isn’t your usual travel spot! [;)]

True, it’s lacking in wild animals.

Thanks Bruno for this travel journal—it really makes me want to go back! [:)]

Thanks for this awesome travel journal—it brought back great memories and made me want to return to Southeast Asia.

Hi there, Thanks for following along!

Thanks Isabelle! See you soon on another travel journal! [;)]

What a huge pleasure it is, thanks to this forum, to be able to dream again through this travel journal of places we've been or to pick up interesting tips for others we don't yet know. So thank you all for treating us, and a big thank you to the forum for coming back to life.

Thanks Daniele for your message! It really means a lot to know it’s been read, given the work it takes!

Such a beautiful travel journal! It really makes me want to go! Thanks again!

Sylvain

Lovely travel journal! It really makes me want to go there! Thanks again! Sylvain

Thanks Sylvain for stopping by here! But don’t spread yourself too thin—there’s still work to do out west! [;)]

Hi Bruno, and thanks for this travel journal. Last year, I’d already followed your Peru-Bolivia journal; we were supposed to go to those countries in February 2024, but we had to cancel at the last minute due to a health issue. In February 2025, we’re heading to Laos and Cambodia to finish with a week in southern Thailand. So I loved your amazing Laos-Cambodia journal—I really appreciate it!

Hi Michel, This is truly the heart of what a travel journal is all about: inspiring fellow travelers and (possibly) giving them useful tips. Looks like you nailed it—I really appreciate you letting me follow along this far!

Hi Bruno,

Thanks for this travel journal and these really lovely photos [:)] I think it’s great when travelers take the time to write journals.

Like you, I really enjoyed Phnom Penh—a city to explore on foot and by tuk-tuk. I stayed for 3 days and have no regrets.

Have a wonderful day, Pascale

Thanks Bruno for this amazing travel journal. We’re heading back to Vietnam for Tết then to Cambodia starting January 25th for six weeks. It’s true that Koh Rong Samloem has been ruined over the past few years... it’s such a shame.

Hello Bruno,

Thanks for this travel journal and those lovely photos [:)] I think it’s great when travelers take the time to write these journals.

Like you, I really enjoyed Phnom Penh—a city best discovered on foot and by tuk-tuk. I stayed there for 3 days and have no regrets.

Have a wonderful day, Pascale

Good evening Pascale, I don’t need to tell *you* how much work goes into a travel journal, given your profile [;)] So thanks for following along [:p] Have a great evening and happy future travels !

Thanks Bruno for this wonderful travel journal. We’re heading back to Vietnam for Tết then to Cambodia starting January 25th for six weeks. It’s true that Koh Rong Samloem has been disfigured over the past few years... it’s really a shame.

Hi Joël and welcome back to the forum!

I’d love to experience Tết! I was in Hanoi for New Year’s in 2019 and really loved the vibe!

For Koh Rong Samloem, I softened my feelings in the journal, but I was really disappointed with what we found outside the 5-star resort and the idyllic beach (and even then, just the part in front of our hotel…). After all, we’d come looking for a 5-star resort and an idyllic beach…

Thanks Isabelle! See you soon on another travel journal! [;)]

So where’s the next destination? [;]

Thanks Isabelle! See you soon on another travel journal! [;)]

So, what’s the next destination? [;)]

Could be one of your travel journals 😄

Hi there, we’re heading to Cambodia in February 2025 and Angkor is definitely on our itinerary. Would it be possible to get your French-speaking guide’s details via PM or otherwise?

Thanks in advance.

Thanks for this lovely travel journal and these beautiful photos—they brought back some great memories! I was in Laos in 2018 and stopped in Luang Prabang, which I really loved (so beautiful and peaceful). I also struggled a lot on the road between LP and Nong Kiaw! Then Muang Ngoi, so far from the world... Paksé, Champasak (and the stunning Wat Phou), Don Kon where life is so good... All of it makes me want to go back for sure!

Last year, I traveled up the Mekong from Phnom Penh to Stung Treng, near the Lao border, before turning toward Banlung. I really enjoyed that part of Cambodia—less touristy than the coast. And I thought I’d love to do it again, this time continuing north into Laos and the 4,000 Islands, maybe even following the river further...

About Siem Reap, I agree with Attila—it’s changed so much, especially the city, which feels overrun by Chinese businesses (my first visit was in 2008)... Sihanoukville? Don’t even get me started—it’s ruined. But it’s almost inevitable: revisiting a place years later, either you don’t recognize anything (the most common, depending on how many years have passed), or you can still find your bearings and see the chaotic development since your last visit, which can stir up a little nostalgia.

Anyway, thanks again for your journal—it’s really great! !

Hi Pascal, and thanks so much for your reply!

Actually, this trip reconciled me with Asia—Vietnam didn’t quite live up to all its promises. I rediscovered a bit of what I loved so much in Myanmar back in 2015, especially in Laos: the kindness, the warmth, and the sincerity of the people. And judging by your profile, I don’t think you’ll disagree with me on that ;)

Vietnam didn’t quite live up to all its promises

You wouldn’t be the only one saying the same thing... But why? Any connection to the welcome you received?

In Vietnam, especially in the north, they can be a bit Chinese in terms of behavior. You can hardly blame them for not being friendlier than a lot of Westerners. Either way, it’s definitely a country worth visiting.

I’ll answer both, even though it’s not really related to the topic—I can feel the curiosity bubbling up [;)]

1/ the weather Bad weather followed us from the Chinese border (we went all the way up to Lung Cu) to Danang. So much so that we skipped the Mekong Delta to extend our stay on Phu Quoc by 3 extra days.

2/ the feeling of being a walking dollar sign. Always, always trying to take more from you. And if they can scam you along the way, it’s because you weren’t paying enough attention. Yet we didn’t just stick to cheap places (or when you’re paying $10 for your room, I get why they’d try to take $2 more). It’s one of the few countries where I’ve had so many financial hassles (bad karma that year?). Bookings not honored, prices changing, random change given, attempts to charge twice for buses…

A feeling I’ve never had in Laos, Cambodia, or Myanmar. In LP, someone even chased me down to return my wallet.

3/ the noise and chaos. Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi are really something else.

But I 200% agree—it’s undeniably a country worth visiting. Ho Chi Minh City is mesmerizing, the north is stunning, Lan Ha Bay is etched in my memory (I’d skipped Halong), Ninh Binh was breathtaking, and I’ll never forget my New Year’s Eve in Hanoi. We saw magnificent palaces in Hue, and Hoi An is one of my most beautiful memories…

I also made some amazing connections there…

And I think the weather played a big part in how I felt about it.

For the travel journal (I can feel the fans panicking ), the vibe on that part of the forum at the time didn’t really encourage oversharing (to put it politely)

Hi Bruno,

Ah yes, Myanmar (in 2018) remains my best memory in terms of hospitality and kindness, authenticity, etc... I spent 4 amazing weeks there, and that country will always be in my heart. I hope the situation there improves soon, even though it’s far from certain given how things are going.

About Vietnam, here’s my take: First visit in 2008, from south to north in a month (so quite fast), and I had very mixed feelings about the Vietnamese—they weren’t very friendly or smiley and were really tough in business... But I went back this year from early January to mid-February: after a month in Cambodia, I was able to spend 45 days there without a visa (new rules for certain countries). Looking for sunshine, I stayed quite a while in the Mekong Delta, then slowly made my way north while keeping an eye on the weather, which gave me this:

And I had 45 fantastic days—I found the Vietnamese super friendly and smiley, and I felt really good there the whole time. So much so that when I arrived in Chiang Mai, I found the Thai people much less smiley—I noticed it almost immediately and naturally... (just to clarify, I wasn’t haggling much, as the prices seemed fair to me).

So, are northern Vietnamese more difficult than those in the south? It’s always tricky to generalize, but from talking to other travelers, it does seem possible... [;)]

Hey Bruno,

Since I was only notified about VoyageForum reopening the day before yesterday (), I’m slowly catching up on my backlog... Thanks for the (virtual) trip, which partly took me back to the one we did in Laos in 2019—I even found the dream boutique hotel! ... Just kidding, it was more like Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, and Muang Ngoi—all under a gorgeous blue sky (which wasn’t the case for us, and left me with mixed memories). Like several others, I have a soft spot for Myanmar in this part of the world. Unfortunately (especially for the Burmese), I’m not sure if I’ll ever be able to go back! I haven’t read the Cambodia section yet... maybe later [;)]

Hello Bruno, Since I was only notified of VF’s reopening the day before yesterday (), I’m slowly catching up on my backlog...

Hi Muriel! No worries, you’re very welcome! Especially since the travel journal is now etched into the web forever!

Thanks for the (virtual) trip, which partly took me back to the one we did in Laos in 2019 (I found the dream boutique hotel! ... just kidding, more like Luang Prabang, Nong Khiaw, and Muang Ngoi)... all under a gorgeous blue sky (which wasn’t our case and left me with mixed memories).

No trouble booking at the Dream—it’s at the top of rankings on many sites. However, the bamboo bridge won’t be rebuilt; a concrete walkway is being installed instead. Good for locals, not so great for the folklore.

The weather is a huge factor in a trip’s success. My stepdaughter did the same route in April and didn’t see the sun for 8 days (on top of the weather, the slash-and-burn farming didn’t help).

Like several others, I have a soft spot for Myanmar in this part of the world. Unfortunately (especially for the Burmese), I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to go back!

I dream of going back! The Bagan plain is just stunning.

However, the bamboo bridge won’t be rebuilt; a concrete footbridge is in the works.

Yeah, too bad for the charm—it was really nice and handy (and that toll was a clever touch ). If it’s being replaced with a permanent bridge, it’s definitely better for the locals.

Hi Bruno, Congrats and thanks for this travel journal (I’m a bit late to the party, sorry about that ). It’s such a pleasure to read, and the photos are gorgeous.

Plus, it’s so great to see so many VF members again

Hi Bruno, Congrats and thanks for this travel journal (I’m a bit late to the party after the post ). Really enjoyable to read and some gorgeous photos.

Hi Anne, Thanks for reading! Once it’s posted, there’s no such thing as late for a travel journal [;)], so no worries, you’re very welcome!

Hi there,

Thanks so much for taking the time to share these travel journals. We’re heading to Laos in April with our two daughters, aged 10 and 8, and this couldn’t have come at a better time.

Have a great day! Aurélie

Hi Aurélie, Thanks for your feedback, that’s great to hear! You’re going to have a fantastic time! Don’t hesitate if you have any questions before you leave—I might be able to answer them ;) Have a great day

Hi there,

What a wonderful story—it swept me away and convinced me to pick these two destinations for our next trip.

Thanks! !

Hello,

What a wonderful story—it swept me away and convinced me to choose these two destinations for our next trip. Thanks!

I hope it’ll be as magical as ours was. Thanks for reading!

Hi Bruno,

Thanks for this suggestion. I’ll take the opportunity to ask you a question—I’m starting to plan our trip, and I’m not exactly ahead of schedule since it’s in a month!

I was wondering how to do the Bolaven and Thakhek loops. It seems like most travelers do them by scooter, which must be amazing, but we’re traveling with our kids, and I don’t find it very safe for them. *Especially with me behind the wheel ;)*

What do you think?

Thanks so much for your feedback, Aurélie

Hi Aurélie, Thanks for your reply—it’s great to hear from you! You’re going to have a blast! Don’t hesitate if you have any questions before you leave—I might be able to answer them ;) Have a great day!