Bangkok - Chiang Mai - Koh Samui in summer
by Waterlily78
Translated into English.
We can't keep count of the floods this year in Chiang Mai, Chiang Rai, and even parts of the south. Don't forget that during this season, Samui, Phangan, and Tao usually offer favorable weather.
Above all, it's best to advise people, for all of Thailand, to avoid prioritizing August, May, September, and October.
« Tout le monde s'interroge sur comment laisser une meilleure planète à nos enfants, mais on devrait plutôt penser à laisser de meilleurs enfants pour notre planète. » Clint Eastwood
You're absolutely right. However, if like me you don’t have the option to travel at another time of year (3 weeks of mandatory closure in August, out of 5 weeks of annual leave ), there’s no need to be pessimistic and assume you’ll spend your entire holiday in pouring rain.
I just spent 2 hours pouring my heart into writing about Chiang Mai and lost my window—oh despair, oh rage! I checked the site to see if a draft was saved... Oh well ☹ I’ll start over.
Chiang Mai It was excellent advice to push on to Chiang Mai to recover from the international flight instead of staying in Bangkok. We all loved this city—its daytime tranquility, the magnificent temples around every corner, and the lively night market atmosphere in the evening. It’s also the perfect place to take a famous tuk-tuk ride with the family (something I strongly advise against in Bangkok due to pollution and traffic).
After a 36-hour journey, we arrived at the hotel at noon. Surprisingly, we weren’t too tired—a dip in the pool, a shower, and we were off for our first meal on Thai soil. A shabu shabu I’d spotted, the perfect meal to recover from a long trip.
Just a stone’s throw from our hotel, our first temple was naturally the Wat Phra Singh. We took our time strolling, admiring the architectural details and its golden stupas. Later, we learned that many women and couples get photographed in traditional outfits inside the temples, which can be rented, by the way.
We took our first tuk-tuk to reach the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar / Kalare Night Bazaar, which is open every day. We negotiated the fare based on the estimated Grab price. You’ll usually pay more for a tuk-tuk, but it’s an experience worth having at least once—we loved it. We had our first fresh coconut at the market (delicious!) while listening to live music, snacking here and there throughout our visit. The night market isn’t very big and can easily be explored in under 1.5 hours if you take your time. We also exchanged some money. Now’s the time to start scouting for souvenirs you’d like to bring back, checking market prices, and testing your negotiation skills 😄. It’ll give you experience for the bigger night markets to come. Don’t jump on the first stall—you’ll likely find the same item elsewhere or at another night market. With practice, you’ll learn which prices are reasonable or too high. We then headed back to the hotel to sleep.
The next morning, we took a songthaew (it was waiting in front of the hotel) to our first temple. I admit I didn’t really understand how to take a songthaew—I didn’t dare hail one on the street—and every time we talked to drivers outside temples or night markets, it was *much* more expensive than Grab. For convenience (and the AC, let’s be honest), we mostly got around Chiang Mai using Grab, especially since rides arrived in under 2 minutes.
Wat Chiang Man A lovely temple with a stupa surrounded at its base by elephants. The carvings could’ve used a good cleaning, but personally, I prefer the authenticity of old stone over the shiny, modern stupas like those at Phra Singh.
Wat Phantao A standout temple, entirely made of teak. We found it beautiful and went back a second time at night—it was stunning when lit up. Inside, there’s a large wooden offering urn, and to drop in your donations and wishes, you have to climb a small wooden ladder. Metallic gold leaves for writing your name are available on a small table. Outside, you can have fun ringing the large bells lined up along a bamboo platform one by one.
Wat Chedi Luang Absolutely a must-see. The magnificent entrance, guarded by two fierce green Yaksha, sets the tone. In the main building, take the time to sit and soak in the atmosphere. On the right, 12 statues covered in gold leaf and 12 zodiac animals are lined up. For a donation, you can get a gold leaf to stick on the statue of your birth month. Further on, discover the massive brick chedi guarded by intimidating Nagas and elephants—walk around the back to see them. You can admire other viharas with their layered roofs, one made of teak and another covered in silver. For gong bath enthusiasts, strike the huge gong and let its deep, dark vibrations wash over you.
Wat Jetlin A peaceful haven that doesn’t seem well-known to tourists. We crossed the surprising rattan bridge over the pond, where our daughter fed the enormous catfish for a few baht. Benches are set up in the shade—perfect for admiring the water lilies.
After sweating through the morning, we headed for AC: the Central Chiang Mai mall. We took a Grab (20 minutes from the old city), but free shuttles also go there. Like all malls in Asia, the basement is dedicated to food courts. The advantage is that everyone can order what they want, and then we all eat together at the tables in the middle. Nothing special about this mall—it’s a manageable size (not like Bangkok’s mega-malls) and pleasant to explore after a hot day. There’s a Popmart for collectors and a Bouncetopia (huge inflatable structures—bring socks to avoid buying them on-site) to make our daughter happy after all the walking she did without complaining 😄.
Back to the old city via Grab, heading to the Saturday Night Market (Wua Lai Walking Street). It’s easy to explore in a straight line near the South Gate of the city walls. There’s everything—food (with seating), clothes, trinkets, restrooms if needed. We thought it’d be bigger; we finished in about 1.5 hours. As usual, don’t hesitate to negotiate prices—if they won’t lower it, move on.
The next day, Grab to Wat Jed Yot, which is in a lush garden. We took some great photos. A woman had lots of birds in tiny cages. For a fee, you can release a bird. In Buddhism, releasing a caged bird brings good karma. I have serious doubts about whether Buddhism actually approves of imprisoning living beings, especially since these birds likely return to their captors who feed them.
On the way there, we saw the large MAYA Lifestyle mall. After the temple, we took a Grab there for lunch. Big mistake—we got stuck in traffic. I think everything is always jammed around this mall. Twice during our stay, we passed that roundabout and wasted so much time in the car. Nothing special about this mall—we just went to eat, then headed back to the hotel for a family massage at Lila Thai Phra Singh. It’s a chain that helps reintegrate former female inmates. We each paid 350 baht for a 1-hour foot massage (my daughter got feet, hands, and head). We had a very relaxing time together. It was exactly what I wanted—not the traditional deep massage.
With the soothing effects of the massage, we tackled the famous Sunday Night Market, which starts right in front of the massage parlor across from Wat Phra Singh. It stretches in a straight line and across all the road segments up to Thapae Gate. How to describe it? As someone who loves night markets, I got my fill—lengthwise, widthwise, and every which way. After 3 hours, we still hadn’t reached Thapae Gate—there were just so many stalls to see, explore, and discover. But seeing the city wall nearby, I gave up and told everyone we were heading back to the hotel. It’s a must-do in Chiang Mai. We got some great prices on souvenirs I wanted to bring back.
The next day, Grab to Doi Suthep and its iconic 300-step staircase lined with Nagas. We cheated and took the funicular. The temple is in the mountains, and the road there twists and turns, though it’s fairly wide. Bring motion sickness meds if you’re prone to it. The place is simply magnificent, magical, majestic. On a clear day, you’ll also get a stunning view overlooking the city. Walking down the steps, there’s a small “village” with lots of souvenir shops and restaurants. We had a simple but delicious meal there.
On the way down the mountain, make sure to stop at Wat Phra Lat—it was my absolute favorite. Nestled in the jungle, you’ll be sheltered from the sun under dense vegetation and bamboo forests. A small waterfall to cool your feet will delight kids and adults alike. It’s a timeless place if you want to meditate, with a stupa covered in moss... a truly enchanting escape.
On the way back, we asked the taxi to drop us at Thapae Gate, thinking there’d be some entertainment, but there was absolutely nothing that Monday night. So we took another Grab to the Chiang Mai University Night Market, where I’d read there were more kawaii items. It really wasn’t worth the trip—we didn’t find anything interesting to see or buy.
The next day, we had a 9 AM tour booked on GetYourGuide: bamboo rafting in Mae Wang and a visit to an elephant sanctuary. As mentioned, the van was supposed to pick us up at 8:30, but by 8:15, the guide was already panicking because we weren’t there 😄. Luckily, we were early, knowing how punctuality works locally.
The rafting was very gentle and relaxing—no Indiana Jones adventures. Unfortunately, it started raining, but since we were already in swimsuits, it didn’t matter. We then went for a jungle walk with the elephants, which wasn’t very relaxing—there were steep slopes. Let the elephants go first if you don’t want to end up on a hill watching one slide toward you in slow motion . After feeding them, we continued the walk through the jungle to a waterfall. It was a real obstacle course—crossing rickety “bridges,” muddy paths 15 cm from a drop, handrails that broke when you grabbed them... In short, there was enough adventure to satisfy our touristy lives. Our daughter managed with my partner’s help, but I wouldn’t recommend this with younger kids. Still, it was a beautiful day.
Side note: Even at 9 AM in the jungle, we didn’t get a single mosquito bite. Have all the mosquitoes immigrated to France? We barely got bitten in Thailand at all.
And that wraps up our 5 nights in Chiang Mai. If you’re only going for a few days, I recommend planning it so you’re there over a weekend. It’d be a shame to miss the Saturday and especially the Sunday Night Market, which are open on Saturdays and Sundays. On Monday and Tuesday nights, we didn’t know what to do, and after the University Night Market flop, we went back to the Night Bazaar, which we’d already explored thoroughly. Five nights was the perfect amount of time to discover the city. If we ever get the chance to return, I’d add 2 more nights to visit Chiang Rai. Next post: our flight to Koh Samui / Koh Phangan!
Chiang Mai It was excellent advice to push on to Chiang Mai to recover from the international flight instead of staying in Bangkok. We all loved this city—its daytime tranquility, the magnificent temples around every corner, and the lively night market atmosphere in the evening. It’s also the perfect place to take a famous tuk-tuk ride with the family (something I strongly advise against in Bangkok due to pollution and traffic).
After a 36-hour journey, we arrived at the hotel at noon. Surprisingly, we weren’t too tired—a dip in the pool, a shower, and we were off for our first meal on Thai soil. A shabu shabu I’d spotted, the perfect meal to recover from a long trip.
Just a stone’s throw from our hotel, our first temple was naturally the Wat Phra Singh. We took our time strolling, admiring the architectural details and its golden stupas. Later, we learned that many women and couples get photographed in traditional outfits inside the temples, which can be rented, by the way.
We took our first tuk-tuk to reach the Chiang Mai Night Bazaar / Kalare Night Bazaar, which is open every day. We negotiated the fare based on the estimated Grab price. You’ll usually pay more for a tuk-tuk, but it’s an experience worth having at least once—we loved it. We had our first fresh coconut at the market (delicious!) while listening to live music, snacking here and there throughout our visit. The night market isn’t very big and can easily be explored in under 1.5 hours if you take your time. We also exchanged some money. Now’s the time to start scouting for souvenirs you’d like to bring back, checking market prices, and testing your negotiation skills 😄. It’ll give you experience for the bigger night markets to come. Don’t jump on the first stall—you’ll likely find the same item elsewhere or at another night market. With practice, you’ll learn which prices are reasonable or too high. We then headed back to the hotel to sleep.
The next morning, we took a songthaew (it was waiting in front of the hotel) to our first temple. I admit I didn’t really understand how to take a songthaew—I didn’t dare hail one on the street—and every time we talked to drivers outside temples or night markets, it was *much* more expensive than Grab. For convenience (and the AC, let’s be honest), we mostly got around Chiang Mai using Grab, especially since rides arrived in under 2 minutes.
Wat Chiang Man A lovely temple with a stupa surrounded at its base by elephants. The carvings could’ve used a good cleaning, but personally, I prefer the authenticity of old stone over the shiny, modern stupas like those at Phra Singh.
Wat Phantao A standout temple, entirely made of teak. We found it beautiful and went back a second time at night—it was stunning when lit up. Inside, there’s a large wooden offering urn, and to drop in your donations and wishes, you have to climb a small wooden ladder. Metallic gold leaves for writing your name are available on a small table. Outside, you can have fun ringing the large bells lined up along a bamboo platform one by one.
Wat Chedi Luang Absolutely a must-see. The magnificent entrance, guarded by two fierce green Yaksha, sets the tone. In the main building, take the time to sit and soak in the atmosphere. On the right, 12 statues covered in gold leaf and 12 zodiac animals are lined up. For a donation, you can get a gold leaf to stick on the statue of your birth month. Further on, discover the massive brick chedi guarded by intimidating Nagas and elephants—walk around the back to see them. You can admire other viharas with their layered roofs, one made of teak and another covered in silver. For gong bath enthusiasts, strike the huge gong and let its deep, dark vibrations wash over you.
Wat Jetlin A peaceful haven that doesn’t seem well-known to tourists. We crossed the surprising rattan bridge over the pond, where our daughter fed the enormous catfish for a few baht. Benches are set up in the shade—perfect for admiring the water lilies.
After sweating through the morning, we headed for AC: the Central Chiang Mai mall. We took a Grab (20 minutes from the old city), but free shuttles also go there. Like all malls in Asia, the basement is dedicated to food courts. The advantage is that everyone can order what they want, and then we all eat together at the tables in the middle. Nothing special about this mall—it’s a manageable size (not like Bangkok’s mega-malls) and pleasant to explore after a hot day. There’s a Popmart for collectors and a Bouncetopia (huge inflatable structures—bring socks to avoid buying them on-site) to make our daughter happy after all the walking she did without complaining 😄.
Back to the old city via Grab, heading to the Saturday Night Market (Wua Lai Walking Street). It’s easy to explore in a straight line near the South Gate of the city walls. There’s everything—food (with seating), clothes, trinkets, restrooms if needed. We thought it’d be bigger; we finished in about 1.5 hours. As usual, don’t hesitate to negotiate prices—if they won’t lower it, move on.
The next day, Grab to Wat Jed Yot, which is in a lush garden. We took some great photos. A woman had lots of birds in tiny cages. For a fee, you can release a bird. In Buddhism, releasing a caged bird brings good karma. I have serious doubts about whether Buddhism actually approves of imprisoning living beings, especially since these birds likely return to their captors who feed them.
On the way there, we saw the large MAYA Lifestyle mall. After the temple, we took a Grab there for lunch. Big mistake—we got stuck in traffic. I think everything is always jammed around this mall. Twice during our stay, we passed that roundabout and wasted so much time in the car. Nothing special about this mall—we just went to eat, then headed back to the hotel for a family massage at Lila Thai Phra Singh. It’s a chain that helps reintegrate former female inmates. We each paid 350 baht for a 1-hour foot massage (my daughter got feet, hands, and head). We had a very relaxing time together. It was exactly what I wanted—not the traditional deep massage.
With the soothing effects of the massage, we tackled the famous Sunday Night Market, which starts right in front of the massage parlor across from Wat Phra Singh. It stretches in a straight line and across all the road segments up to Thapae Gate. How to describe it? As someone who loves night markets, I got my fill—lengthwise, widthwise, and every which way. After 3 hours, we still hadn’t reached Thapae Gate—there were just so many stalls to see, explore, and discover. But seeing the city wall nearby, I gave up and told everyone we were heading back to the hotel. It’s a must-do in Chiang Mai. We got some great prices on souvenirs I wanted to bring back.
The next day, Grab to Doi Suthep and its iconic 300-step staircase lined with Nagas. We cheated and took the funicular. The temple is in the mountains, and the road there twists and turns, though it’s fairly wide. Bring motion sickness meds if you’re prone to it. The place is simply magnificent, magical, majestic. On a clear day, you’ll also get a stunning view overlooking the city. Walking down the steps, there’s a small “village” with lots of souvenir shops and restaurants. We had a simple but delicious meal there.
On the way down the mountain, make sure to stop at Wat Phra Lat—it was my absolute favorite. Nestled in the jungle, you’ll be sheltered from the sun under dense vegetation and bamboo forests. A small waterfall to cool your feet will delight kids and adults alike. It’s a timeless place if you want to meditate, with a stupa covered in moss... a truly enchanting escape.
On the way back, we asked the taxi to drop us at Thapae Gate, thinking there’d be some entertainment, but there was absolutely nothing that Monday night. So we took another Grab to the Chiang Mai University Night Market, where I’d read there were more kawaii items. It really wasn’t worth the trip—we didn’t find anything interesting to see or buy.
The next day, we had a 9 AM tour booked on GetYourGuide: bamboo rafting in Mae Wang and a visit to an elephant sanctuary. As mentioned, the van was supposed to pick us up at 8:30, but by 8:15, the guide was already panicking because we weren’t there 😄. Luckily, we were early, knowing how punctuality works locally.
The rafting was very gentle and relaxing—no Indiana Jones adventures. Unfortunately, it started raining, but since we were already in swimsuits, it didn’t matter. We then went for a jungle walk with the elephants, which wasn’t very relaxing—there were steep slopes. Let the elephants go first if you don’t want to end up on a hill watching one slide toward you in slow motion . After feeding them, we continued the walk through the jungle to a waterfall. It was a real obstacle course—crossing rickety “bridges,” muddy paths 15 cm from a drop, handrails that broke when you grabbed them... In short, there was enough adventure to satisfy our touristy lives. Our daughter managed with my partner’s help, but I wouldn’t recommend this with younger kids. Still, it was a beautiful day.
Side note: Even at 9 AM in the jungle, we didn’t get a single mosquito bite. Have all the mosquitoes immigrated to France? We barely got bitten in Thailand at all.
And that wraps up our 5 nights in Chiang Mai. If you’re only going for a few days, I recommend planning it so you’re there over a weekend. It’d be a shame to miss the Saturday and especially the Sunday Night Market, which are open on Saturdays and Sundays. On Monday and Tuesday nights, we didn’t know what to do, and after the University Night Market flop, we went back to the Night Bazaar, which we’d already explored thoroughly. Five nights was the perfect amount of time to discover the city. If we ever get the chance to return, I’d add 2 more nights to visit Chiang Rai. Next post: our flight to Koh Samui / Koh Phangan!
Sorry for the long silence—back-to-school season and its flurry of emergencies caught up with me.
Continuing the trip: we left Chiang Mai for Koh Samui, with Koh Phangan as our final destination.
Out of the entire trip, the islands were the part I researched the most and had the most doubts about, with mixed reviews on murky water, sand littered with dead coral, low tide depending on which side of the island you're on, the island itself, or the time of year. In the end, I decided it was better to change hotels and coasts every two nights, and overall, that was a good idea—if you don’t factor in the fact that taxis are *super* expensive .
Our flight from Chiang Mai to Koh Samui (Bangkok Airways) cost 726 € for the three of us, which was a *huge* chunk of our overall trip budget. Keep that in mind if you want to do both cities and islands in one trip like we did. The flight was at 11:30 AM, and they served a meal during the flight.
At the airport, I bought tickets on 12Go for the ferry crossing from Koh Samui (Bangkrak Pier) to Koh Phangan (Thong Sala Pier). Based on our arrival time, I chose Seatran, which was scheduled to depart at 1:30 PM. I think it was only 10 baht more (it also depends if you pay by card or PayPal, etc.) than buying at the port or directly on Seatran’s website, which wasn’t very user-friendly, by the way. We paid 30 € total, including card fees. I hesitated a lot about buying in advance, not knowing if we’d make the ferry on time, but I’m glad I did. It’s better to have peace of mind and guarantee your spot.
We were supposed to land in Koh Samui at 1:20 PM but arrived at 1:00 PM. A little shuttle took us quickly to the tiny airport. Luggage was out by 1:20 PM. Following the exit, we came across a desk labeled “transfer by boat / taxi.” I expected to see different counters for Seatran, Lomprayah, etc., but it seemed like one general desk handled everything. We mentioned we’d booked the 2:30 PM crossing via Seatran and asked if the transfer was guaranteed—they said yes. The van transfer cost 20 €. We waited about 20 minutes for our turn, which stressed us out a bit about making the ferry. In the end, we arrived at the port with 40 minutes to spare—phew! We had to queue at the counter to pick up our tickets, but there weren’t many people despite it being Full Moon Party week (we were there on a Wednesday). We were the first to board the ferry, and boarding started at 2:00 PM (departure on time at 2:30 PM).
Okay, I’ll be honest—I tend to get motion sickness in *any* kind of transport, and this crossing had me anxious for months. I had my homeopathy, Vogalib, the local Yadom [:P], airplane sick bags—basically, I was prepared for the worst. But guess what? I almost fell asleep during the crossing! The ferry was huge and stable, it was a beautiful sunny day (no wind), and I’d positioned myself right under the AC in the center of the boat. Perfect.
When we arrived at Thong Sala Pier, we followed the crowd, and a pre-booked taxi (750 baht) was waiting for us to take us to our hotel in Thong Nai Pan Yai. The road was *super* hilly—I got a headache from it. Thankfully, the boat hadn’t made me sick right before. The ride took 45 minutes, and I understood why 12Go mentioned taxis might refuse to go all the way to Thong Nai Pan Yai—it’s *really* remote.
Thong Nai Pan Yai I won’t give my opinion on the hotels we booked, but I’ll comment on the places we stayed. At first glance, we found the bay almost *too* wild, too “natural,” probably because of the 2-star hotel we’d booked. But looking back, it was the most authentic bay we visited. Almost deserted, just us in the water, swimming while looking at the lush forest and mountains—it doesn’t get more 5-star than that, I promise. I felt *so* lucky to be there in that moment.
The bay was lined with smooth boulders on both sides, giving major island vibes. Our hotel was on the far-right side of the bay. At that spot, the water isn’t swimmable because of the rocks and the fishing boats docked there. At low tide, you can even see the coral reef sticking out. We swam toward the middle of the bay, which was easily reachable in just 100 meters on foot. The whole stretch had fine sand, no coral or rocks, and was deep enough (waist-high) for swimming, with shallow spots here and there—perfect if you have kids who aren’t strong swimmers yet, like ours. That said, the water wasn’t crystal clear or turquoise—it was murky and emerald green.
At the far-left side of the bay, a weird stream of dirty water was flowing into the sea, with bottle debris too. I *don’t* recommend staying on that side—there aren’t many accommodations there anyway. The day after we arrived at the hotel, it was pouring rain. It rained almost every night during our stay on Koh Phangan, but that didn’t stop us from going for a swim. We’d put on sunscreen, but like the tourists we are, we didn’t watch out for the big clouds and rain and started feeling the sting after 2 hours. Result? Huge sunburns for my partner and me. Don’t underestimate Thailand’s cloudy weather! The UV index was almost 11 every day on the islands. *Always* bring UV shirts (I couldn’t find my size there—I wear a 46). I’d planned to book a day trip to Angthong National Marine Park, but our shoulders talked us out of it.
You *have* to go to 2C Bar to watch the sunset. The view is incredible. Built on different levels, you’ll find the best restrooms with a view on the island 😂. It was *such* a highlight of our trip. The road to get there was honestly the steepest we’d ever walked in our lives—we laughed so hard we almost had to crawl up on all fours. But it’s doable with a kid, and use your phone flashlight for the way back because there’s *zero* lighting.
Haad Yao
After two nights, we booked the next two at Haad Yao Beach. The taxi from Thong Nai Pan Yai cost 1,000 baht, arranged through the hotel. I *don’t* recommend this beach at all—the sand is littered with coral and rocks, and sometimes even *huge* rocks in the water (ouch, toes!) [:(]. You have to go to the center of the bay to find fewer corals, but in front of the restaurants Coco Locco and Amara (tried it, not amazing), there are *tons* of young party tourists blasting music, drinking beers in the sea. We *hated* that vibe. At 6 PM, the water was waist-high but still murky and *scorching*—like 45°C. With our sunburns, it was barely bearable, and we left quickly. Another time, we went in the morning, and same thing—*boiling* water, like a petri dish .
Since the hotel’s sea was useless, we took a taxi to explore other beaches (400 baht one way for all trips).
Malibu Beach: No interest—murky water, very low tide at 11 AM, lots of rocks and coral in the water. But since it’s pretty wild with all the coconut trees lining the beach, you can take some nice photos.
From Malibu Beach, we walked along the shore to Chaloklum Beach, and *that* was great. In front of Seaside Restaurant, the water was high with pristine white sand. We swam along the bay, and after the pier, we reached Chalok Lam Beach—the *best* beach we found on Koh Phangan! The sea was deep, with small waves (manageable), immaculate sand—super Instagrammable . There’s a little stone staircase where you’ll find small restaurants, a pharmacy, two 7-Elevens, and a cheaper Lotus supermarket.
Thong Sala For our last night on Koh Phangan, I wanted to get closer to the pier for the ferry back to Koh Samui the next day. Big mistake—the sea on the entire left side of Thong Sala Pier is *not* swimmable. And when I say “sea,” it was so far out you couldn’t even see it. I don’t know if it’s always like that, but the wind was *intense*, and there were several kitesurfing schools. I’d also booked this hotel to check out the shops around the pier. There are quite a few “fluorescent” clothing stores for the Full Moon Party, the Phangan Food Court was okay (shady, with clothing stalls), and Pantip Market had a decent selection of international dishes, but it was expensive. It’s better to stay one more night somewhere else on the island and take more taxis in the morning before the ferry—the town isn’t worth it. There were barely any pedestrian sidewalks, and cars were speeding like crazy. We found the experience pretty unpleasant and even dangerous.
Next post on Koh Samui 😊
Continuing the trip: we left Chiang Mai for Koh Samui, with Koh Phangan as our final destination.
Out of the entire trip, the islands were the part I researched the most and had the most doubts about, with mixed reviews on murky water, sand littered with dead coral, low tide depending on which side of the island you're on, the island itself, or the time of year. In the end, I decided it was better to change hotels and coasts every two nights, and overall, that was a good idea—if you don’t factor in the fact that taxis are *super* expensive .
Our flight from Chiang Mai to Koh Samui (Bangkok Airways) cost 726 € for the three of us, which was a *huge* chunk of our overall trip budget. Keep that in mind if you want to do both cities and islands in one trip like we did. The flight was at 11:30 AM, and they served a meal during the flight.
At the airport, I bought tickets on 12Go for the ferry crossing from Koh Samui (Bangkrak Pier) to Koh Phangan (Thong Sala Pier). Based on our arrival time, I chose Seatran, which was scheduled to depart at 1:30 PM. I think it was only 10 baht more (it also depends if you pay by card or PayPal, etc.) than buying at the port or directly on Seatran’s website, which wasn’t very user-friendly, by the way. We paid 30 € total, including card fees. I hesitated a lot about buying in advance, not knowing if we’d make the ferry on time, but I’m glad I did. It’s better to have peace of mind and guarantee your spot.
We were supposed to land in Koh Samui at 1:20 PM but arrived at 1:00 PM. A little shuttle took us quickly to the tiny airport. Luggage was out by 1:20 PM. Following the exit, we came across a desk labeled “transfer by boat / taxi.” I expected to see different counters for Seatran, Lomprayah, etc., but it seemed like one general desk handled everything. We mentioned we’d booked the 2:30 PM crossing via Seatran and asked if the transfer was guaranteed—they said yes. The van transfer cost 20 €. We waited about 20 minutes for our turn, which stressed us out a bit about making the ferry. In the end, we arrived at the port with 40 minutes to spare—phew! We had to queue at the counter to pick up our tickets, but there weren’t many people despite it being Full Moon Party week (we were there on a Wednesday). We were the first to board the ferry, and boarding started at 2:00 PM (departure on time at 2:30 PM).
Okay, I’ll be honest—I tend to get motion sickness in *any* kind of transport, and this crossing had me anxious for months. I had my homeopathy, Vogalib, the local Yadom [:P], airplane sick bags—basically, I was prepared for the worst. But guess what? I almost fell asleep during the crossing! The ferry was huge and stable, it was a beautiful sunny day (no wind), and I’d positioned myself right under the AC in the center of the boat. Perfect.
When we arrived at Thong Sala Pier, we followed the crowd, and a pre-booked taxi (750 baht) was waiting for us to take us to our hotel in Thong Nai Pan Yai. The road was *super* hilly—I got a headache from it. Thankfully, the boat hadn’t made me sick right before. The ride took 45 minutes, and I understood why 12Go mentioned taxis might refuse to go all the way to Thong Nai Pan Yai—it’s *really* remote.
Thong Nai Pan Yai I won’t give my opinion on the hotels we booked, but I’ll comment on the places we stayed. At first glance, we found the bay almost *too* wild, too “natural,” probably because of the 2-star hotel we’d booked. But looking back, it was the most authentic bay we visited. Almost deserted, just us in the water, swimming while looking at the lush forest and mountains—it doesn’t get more 5-star than that, I promise. I felt *so* lucky to be there in that moment.
The bay was lined with smooth boulders on both sides, giving major island vibes. Our hotel was on the far-right side of the bay. At that spot, the water isn’t swimmable because of the rocks and the fishing boats docked there. At low tide, you can even see the coral reef sticking out. We swam toward the middle of the bay, which was easily reachable in just 100 meters on foot. The whole stretch had fine sand, no coral or rocks, and was deep enough (waist-high) for swimming, with shallow spots here and there—perfect if you have kids who aren’t strong swimmers yet, like ours. That said, the water wasn’t crystal clear or turquoise—it was murky and emerald green.
At the far-left side of the bay, a weird stream of dirty water was flowing into the sea, with bottle debris too. I *don’t* recommend staying on that side—there aren’t many accommodations there anyway. The day after we arrived at the hotel, it was pouring rain. It rained almost every night during our stay on Koh Phangan, but that didn’t stop us from going for a swim. We’d put on sunscreen, but like the tourists we are, we didn’t watch out for the big clouds and rain and started feeling the sting after 2 hours. Result? Huge sunburns for my partner and me. Don’t underestimate Thailand’s cloudy weather! The UV index was almost 11 every day on the islands. *Always* bring UV shirts (I couldn’t find my size there—I wear a 46). I’d planned to book a day trip to Angthong National Marine Park, but our shoulders talked us out of it.
You *have* to go to 2C Bar to watch the sunset. The view is incredible. Built on different levels, you’ll find the best restrooms with a view on the island 😂. It was *such* a highlight of our trip. The road to get there was honestly the steepest we’d ever walked in our lives—we laughed so hard we almost had to crawl up on all fours. But it’s doable with a kid, and use your phone flashlight for the way back because there’s *zero* lighting.
Haad Yao
After two nights, we booked the next two at Haad Yao Beach. The taxi from Thong Nai Pan Yai cost 1,000 baht, arranged through the hotel. I *don’t* recommend this beach at all—the sand is littered with coral and rocks, and sometimes even *huge* rocks in the water (ouch, toes!) [:(]. You have to go to the center of the bay to find fewer corals, but in front of the restaurants Coco Locco and Amara (tried it, not amazing), there are *tons* of young party tourists blasting music, drinking beers in the sea. We *hated* that vibe. At 6 PM, the water was waist-high but still murky and *scorching*—like 45°C. With our sunburns, it was barely bearable, and we left quickly. Another time, we went in the morning, and same thing—*boiling* water, like a petri dish .
Since the hotel’s sea was useless, we took a taxi to explore other beaches (400 baht one way for all trips).
Malibu Beach: No interest—murky water, very low tide at 11 AM, lots of rocks and coral in the water. But since it’s pretty wild with all the coconut trees lining the beach, you can take some nice photos.
From Malibu Beach, we walked along the shore to Chaloklum Beach, and *that* was great. In front of Seaside Restaurant, the water was high with pristine white sand. We swam along the bay, and after the pier, we reached Chalok Lam Beach—the *best* beach we found on Koh Phangan! The sea was deep, with small waves (manageable), immaculate sand—super Instagrammable . There’s a little stone staircase where you’ll find small restaurants, a pharmacy, two 7-Elevens, and a cheaper Lotus supermarket.
Thong Sala For our last night on Koh Phangan, I wanted to get closer to the pier for the ferry back to Koh Samui the next day. Big mistake—the sea on the entire left side of Thong Sala Pier is *not* swimmable. And when I say “sea,” it was so far out you couldn’t even see it. I don’t know if it’s always like that, but the wind was *intense*, and there were several kitesurfing schools. I’d also booked this hotel to check out the shops around the pier. There are quite a few “fluorescent” clothing stores for the Full Moon Party, the Phangan Food Court was okay (shady, with clothing stalls), and Pantip Market had a decent selection of international dishes, but it was expensive. It’s better to stay one more night somewhere else on the island and take more taxis in the morning before the ferry—the town isn’t worth it. There were barely any pedestrian sidewalks, and cars were speeding like crazy. We found the experience pretty unpleasant and even dangerous.
Next post on Koh Samui 😊
Thanks for sharing your experience! [:)] I’m looking forward to reading the rest.
We’re heading to Thailand in January 2026—Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai, and the south.
We’re heading to Thailand in January 2026—Bangkok, Ayutthaya, Chiang Mai, and the south.
Thanks, glad to know I’m being read
What luck that you’re heading there soon. I’d love to go back already
We didn’t have time to do Ayutthaya... maybe next time!
Koh Samui
For the return ferry, I bought the tickets in advance the day before on 12go, still with Seatran. But on the morning itself (the Monday right after the full moon weekend), there were still spots available for the 10:30 AM ferry. As mentioned, it was quite windy in Thong Sala—the boat was rocking hard at the dock, and the first 15 minutes of the crossing were a bit rough, but then it calmed down as we got closer to Koh Samui. Overall, it was manageable for my seasickness; I sniffed my ya dom .
Lamai Beach Our hotel for the first two nights is among our favorites for its location right in the center of Lamai Beach, directly facing the sea. I’d actually seen in my research that this was the best swimming area. Plus, it was really well situated for evening shopping. For those who care, there was also a McDonald’s just a few minutes away.
Lamai Beach was perfect for swimming. Soft sand, clear water with some waves, but it’s manageable—deep enough to swim. There’s a Facebook group for Koh Samui and Koh Phangan lovers that was a great source of info; don’t hesitate to check it out. There was apparently a jellyfish alert on Koh Samui, and sure enough, some swimming areas were marked off with nets. We swam and walked halfway up the beach to the point where you could see the Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks in the distance. The bay is really big, and you’ll find your happy place there. As you go further, the soft sand turns into quartz sand in spots, which is charming but can be tough on your feet after a while. We took advantage of our stay in Lamai to try jet skiing (about 1,400 baht for 20 minutes for 3 people—I don’t remember the exact amount). My daughter and partner loved the adrenaline rush, but I got scared on the big waves. Next time, I’ll be less of a chicken .
There were tons of other activities to do and watch: inflatable games, banana boats, and more. It was hilarious seeing people fall . We really loved the family-friendly vibe of this beach.
On foot, we walked up to the Lamai Beach Market, then Had Lamai Road, and all the way to the Lamai Night Market. There are lots of clothing shops, massage parlors, and even adult bars—things we hadn’t seen yet during our stay in Thailand.
At the Seafood Market, we went to Family Home restaurant twice. You buy your seafood by weight (they tell you the total upfront so no surprises), and you choose the cooking method and sauce. The jumbo prawns in tamarind sauce still make my mouth water. It was absolutely delicious, and the staff was so nice they even gave us a discount when we came back the next day.
It was a really great place to stay. We loved the nightlife, which is fun to explore—it’s not huge, so you can easily check it out in one or two evenings.
Fisherman’s Village – Bo Phut Beach Our next two nights were in a boutique hotel in Fisherman’s Village, which is a narrow street lined with restaurants and shops. Watch out for cars—they pass *really* close. The prices here are pretty high, similar to what we have in France. The shops are open every evening, but on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, the Fisherman Village Night Market takes place. Plan your stay accordingly—it’d be a shame to miss it. The market takes about an hour to walk through if you go early in the evening. When we left, it was so packed we could barely move.
The street becomes pedestrian-only at night, and cars have to drive in one direction. Both times we called a taxi (InDrive is cheaper than Grab—our hotel recommended choosing "Ride" instead of "Taxi"), they refused to pick us up right at the hotel and asked us to meet them outside the village, which kind of defeats the purpose of calling a taxi. Plan extra time if you’re heading to the airport from here. Our host said it’s just because the taxi drivers can’t be bothered to drive all the way around to get us.
As for Bo Phut Beach, we didn’t test it, but I waded in up to my knees. It gets deep *very* quickly (that famous drop-off where the waves make it hard to get out), the sand is rough, and there are boats and rocks. Unless you’re there for the Night Market, there’s no real reason to stay long in Fisherman’s Village if you want to enjoy the beach. You can take a taxi and go for just an evening—it’s plenty.
I’d planned to see the famous fire show at Coco Tams on the second night. But after visiting the night market on the first night, it was almost 9 PM (the fire shows are at 7:15 PM and 9 PM—get there by 6 PM if you want to grab the bean bags on the beach for the 7:15 show). I read that you can watch the show from the beach side. Not that I’m encouraging it, but out of curiosity, we went down to the restaurant next door, and sure enough, the view was decent. The Coco Tams staff keep an eye out for squatters, but if you stay respectfully to the side without stepping onto their space, they won’t say anything. The show itself lasted a long time—the first 25 minutes were pretty slow, and I was disappointed compared to the hype online. The end was fun, but it’s not *that* amazing. Plus, with their Coco Pizzeria, Coco Bar, and Coco Summer , they’ve got the whole entertainment business locked down in Fisherman’s Village. Anyway, I’m glad we didn’t book for the next night just for the fire show, but I get why people go for the vibe (DJ set before the show).
If we could do it over, we would’ve stayed at Chaweng Beach, which was incredible and our favorite beach of the trip. We got there through a little alley near the SEEN Beach Club. It’s a gorgeous beach with fine sand, no rocks or coral. The sea was super calm—absolute paradise. We had lunch at one of the hotels and used their beachside showers, then changed in the restrooms before exploring the town in the evening.
Contrary to what we thought, the shopping street doesn’t run along the beach—it’s inland. We walked from the beach to the Chaweng Night Market Food Center (no interest) > Central Samui, an open-air mall with its Central Samui Night Market, which is great for shopping and eating > Chaweng Night Market, which is pretty small.
And that wraps up our short stay in Koh Samui. If we get the chance to come back, we’ll stay longer. We really loved Koh Samui—it has the best of both worlds: city activities and beautiful beaches. It was *very* touristy (so many French tourists, it felt like home), especially compared to Koh Phangan, but still super nice. And my daughter loved the unexpected McDonald’s [:P].
Samui Airport is open—no need to dress to brave the AC, there isn’t any. There are plenty of restaurant options, but they’re pricey (15 € for a panini). We had 2.5 hours before our flight and that was more than enough. There are more souvenir shops and food options after security. On our 10 AM Bangkok Airways flight, they served a full meal—you won’t starve with the Thais . Next post on Bangkok!
Lamai Beach Our hotel for the first two nights is among our favorites for its location right in the center of Lamai Beach, directly facing the sea. I’d actually seen in my research that this was the best swimming area. Plus, it was really well situated for evening shopping. For those who care, there was also a McDonald’s just a few minutes away.
Lamai Beach was perfect for swimming. Soft sand, clear water with some waves, but it’s manageable—deep enough to swim. There’s a Facebook group for Koh Samui and Koh Phangan lovers that was a great source of info; don’t hesitate to check it out. There was apparently a jellyfish alert on Koh Samui, and sure enough, some swimming areas were marked off with nets. We swam and walked halfway up the beach to the point where you could see the Grandmother and Grandfather Rocks in the distance. The bay is really big, and you’ll find your happy place there. As you go further, the soft sand turns into quartz sand in spots, which is charming but can be tough on your feet after a while. We took advantage of our stay in Lamai to try jet skiing (about 1,400 baht for 20 minutes for 3 people—I don’t remember the exact amount). My daughter and partner loved the adrenaline rush, but I got scared on the big waves. Next time, I’ll be less of a chicken .
There were tons of other activities to do and watch: inflatable games, banana boats, and more. It was hilarious seeing people fall . We really loved the family-friendly vibe of this beach.
On foot, we walked up to the Lamai Beach Market, then Had Lamai Road, and all the way to the Lamai Night Market. There are lots of clothing shops, massage parlors, and even adult bars—things we hadn’t seen yet during our stay in Thailand.
At the Seafood Market, we went to Family Home restaurant twice. You buy your seafood by weight (they tell you the total upfront so no surprises), and you choose the cooking method and sauce. The jumbo prawns in tamarind sauce still make my mouth water. It was absolutely delicious, and the staff was so nice they even gave us a discount when we came back the next day.
It was a really great place to stay. We loved the nightlife, which is fun to explore—it’s not huge, so you can easily check it out in one or two evenings.
Fisherman’s Village – Bo Phut Beach Our next two nights were in a boutique hotel in Fisherman’s Village, which is a narrow street lined with restaurants and shops. Watch out for cars—they pass *really* close. The prices here are pretty high, similar to what we have in France. The shops are open every evening, but on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, the Fisherman Village Night Market takes place. Plan your stay accordingly—it’d be a shame to miss it. The market takes about an hour to walk through if you go early in the evening. When we left, it was so packed we could barely move.
The street becomes pedestrian-only at night, and cars have to drive in one direction. Both times we called a taxi (InDrive is cheaper than Grab—our hotel recommended choosing "Ride" instead of "Taxi"), they refused to pick us up right at the hotel and asked us to meet them outside the village, which kind of defeats the purpose of calling a taxi. Plan extra time if you’re heading to the airport from here. Our host said it’s just because the taxi drivers can’t be bothered to drive all the way around to get us.
As for Bo Phut Beach, we didn’t test it, but I waded in up to my knees. It gets deep *very* quickly (that famous drop-off where the waves make it hard to get out), the sand is rough, and there are boats and rocks. Unless you’re there for the Night Market, there’s no real reason to stay long in Fisherman’s Village if you want to enjoy the beach. You can take a taxi and go for just an evening—it’s plenty.
I’d planned to see the famous fire show at Coco Tams on the second night. But after visiting the night market on the first night, it was almost 9 PM (the fire shows are at 7:15 PM and 9 PM—get there by 6 PM if you want to grab the bean bags on the beach for the 7:15 show). I read that you can watch the show from the beach side. Not that I’m encouraging it, but out of curiosity, we went down to the restaurant next door, and sure enough, the view was decent. The Coco Tams staff keep an eye out for squatters, but if you stay respectfully to the side without stepping onto their space, they won’t say anything. The show itself lasted a long time—the first 25 minutes were pretty slow, and I was disappointed compared to the hype online. The end was fun, but it’s not *that* amazing. Plus, with their Coco Pizzeria, Coco Bar, and Coco Summer , they’ve got the whole entertainment business locked down in Fisherman’s Village. Anyway, I’m glad we didn’t book for the next night just for the fire show, but I get why people go for the vibe (DJ set before the show).
If we could do it over, we would’ve stayed at Chaweng Beach, which was incredible and our favorite beach of the trip. We got there through a little alley near the SEEN Beach Club. It’s a gorgeous beach with fine sand, no rocks or coral. The sea was super calm—absolute paradise. We had lunch at one of the hotels and used their beachside showers, then changed in the restrooms before exploring the town in the evening.
Contrary to what we thought, the shopping street doesn’t run along the beach—it’s inland. We walked from the beach to the Chaweng Night Market Food Center (no interest) > Central Samui, an open-air mall with its Central Samui Night Market, which is great for shopping and eating > Chaweng Night Market, which is pretty small.
And that wraps up our short stay in Koh Samui. If we get the chance to come back, we’ll stay longer. We really loved Koh Samui—it has the best of both worlds: city activities and beautiful beaches. It was *very* touristy (so many French tourists, it felt like home), especially compared to Koh Phangan, but still super nice. And my daughter loved the unexpected McDonald’s [:P].
Samui Airport is open—no need to dress to brave the AC, there isn’t any. There are plenty of restaurant options, but they’re pricey (15 € for a panini). We had 2.5 hours before our flight and that was more than enough. There are more souvenir shops and food options after security. On our 10 AM Bangkok Airways flight, they served a full meal—you won’t starve with the Thais . Next post on Bangkok!
When we landed at Bangkok’s airport, we followed the signs to the Grab taxi area. There were plenty of taxis parked but no drivers in sight. It wasn’t clear at all, but we eventually crossed two lanes to reach a spot where a bunch of locals were gathered. Turns out there’s no first-come, first-served taxi line. Locals order taxis through the app and all wait in that area. A staff member then shouts out the license plate of the incoming car, and the person who ordered it steps forward. It was a bit chaotic. We waited about twenty minutes for ours to arrive.
The ride to our hotel wasn’t exactly peaceful. We were stuck in traffic for 1 hour and 45 minutes for a trip estimated at 20 minutes. Side note: the few times we took a Grab in Bangkok, they were always old cars with no AC and some kind of reactor in the trunk, so our suitcases couldn’t fit back there. We ended up squished and sweaty in the back seat with our stuff on the front seat. Honestly, I’d strongly advise against taking a car in this city. Even the shortest trip turns into a huge time-waster in traffic.
We stayed 3 nights in a hotel near the BTS National Stadium (the mall district). I misread the return flight time—00:05—and thought we were flying the night of Tuesday, but it was actually Monday. Luckily, we realized in time, but I really regretted losing a night there, and it threw off our sightseeing plans a bit. We didn’t cancel the last hotel night, though—it was handy to shower after a full day of sightseeing before our midnight flight.
Our hotel wasn’t far from the Jim Thomson House Museum. So that was our first “chill” visit after the taxi ordeal. I’d seen it recommended, and I’ll admit I wouldn’t have gone if it weren’t so close to where we were staying. It’s a beautiful house, a breath of fresh air in the city. The museum is visited in groups with a guide in your chosen language. We joined a guide who spoke French very well. It was interesting and lovely, but not a must-see if your stay is short, in my opinion. There were nods to the hit series *The White Lotus*, where characters (including Lisa from Blackpink) wear the brand’s outfits. Located near the khlongs, I tried to take the water shuttles to Khao San Road, but the museum staff talked me out of it. They said it was a bad idea, but I probably should’ve pushed through. I’d read articles on how to take the water shuttles, but I was a bit intimidated. Since it was pouring rain, we made the bad call to take another old taxi without AC that was waiting outside the museum. And off we went for another 1.5 hours in traffic versus the 25 minutes estimated on Google Maps. Absolute nightmare. Plus, the driver didn’t want to drop us off because he wanted to stay on the main road, so we ended up walking the last bit.
How can I even describe the vibe for our visit to Khao San Road? There was torrential rain, and all the stalls were covered. Personally, I didn’t get the hype—aside from a few restaurants and bars, I didn’t find the area interesting, even though we’re usually up for any touristy activity. The atmosphere is probably way different when you’re not soaked to the bone . We quickly headed back to the hotel. Khao San Road is also pretty far out, so we had to take another taxi back.
Floating Market and Railway Market For our second day in Bangkok, we booked a visit to the Railway Market and Floating Market on GetYourGuide, all in one day. The meet-up was at 8:30 AM the next day for a 10-hour tour. First, we took a coach to the station (Ban Laem) to catch the famous train. The ride took over an hour, I think. I thought we’d just see the train pass through the market, but the surprise was that we were *on* the train, heading to Mae Klong. The trip lasted an hour, and the stops in the middle of nowhere (doors opening over water or bushes) had us laughing. When we arrived at Mae Klong Market, we felt like celebrities with all the people filming and waving at us. Our daughter loved it . Once we got off the train, we watched it head back the other way—it’s impressive how quickly vendors pack up and set up their stalls. The train really brushes past people. To my surprise, prices were mostly better than what we found in Chiang Mai. I bought a bunch of souvenirs and gifts.
Next up: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market The guide split us into motorboats. Every now and then, the driver would speed up, which we found hilarious. The older women selling sliced fruit decorated their boats beautifully—we were dazzled by all the colors. It’s worth it for the experience, but not for shopping. We ate there; it was okay, nothing special. For just 57 € for the three of us, we had an amazing day! Sure, it’s super touristy, but we had a blast. The ride back to the city center took 2 hours. So really, plan a full day if you want to do both activities. The coach dropped us off at MBK Center, so we took the chance to check out the malls near our hotel.
MBK Center = lots of items similar to the night markets, but in a clean mall with AC. We liked it. Siam Paragon = very upscale, expensive. There were a lot of Middle Eastern shoppers. CentralWorld = nice, has an aquarium if it’s raining and you’re traveling with kids. We didn’t go. All the malls have great food courts—super handy if your group has different tastes. Everyone can grab what they like. During our stay in Bangkok, we bought food for breakfast every evening and ate in the room. It was pretty confusing figuring out how to get between the malls—they seem close, but the sidewalks are impassable. You always have to use the skywalks (elevated walkways), which add a lot of extra walking. We were exhausted after that whole day!
Third day in Bangkok: off to Chatuchak Sunday Market. What a massive, incredible place—just as amazing as I’d imagined! We loved it and could’ve gone back multiple times. If you like markets, plan your trip so you’re there on the weekend. We picked up some great gifts for friends and coworkers. My daughter was hunting for Labubu, and we were told to check out the building right next to the market. It had tons of figurines and other video game merch. There’s also a nice food court.
After 3-4 hours at Chatuchak, we headed to IconSiam by boat (8 baht per crossing), which is always fun. The Iconsiam shuttle leaves from BTS Saphan Taksin / Sathorn Pier (Exit 2). There’s a great view of the city from the Apple terrace, and even better from the Starbucks and Popmart. There’s a light and sound show at 7 PM, 8 PM, and 9 PM at the base of IconSiam, and we watched it for free from the Popmart terrace. FYI, Banana (the store) has better prices than Apple if you’re looking to buy Apple products cheaper than in Europe. We thought it might be a scam, but the Apple store employee confirmed Banana is legit. On our fourth and last day in Bangkok before our midnight international flight, we hit all the main temples.
Grand Palace Take the BTS to Saphan Taksin, exit 2, and follow the path under the bridge supported by concrete pillars. Several booths sell boat tours. We took the Blue Flag boat, which is for tourists. It was comfortable, with AC, plenty of seats, and not too crowded at 10 AM. The screen announces stops in English, and the staff understand English. Get off at Tha Chang (N9). The Grand Palace is obviously stunning. We visited in 1.5 hours without dawdling—it was *really* hot that morning . Note: it’s the only temple we visited where they didn’t allow sarongs over shoulders/hips for men. Same for women. You *have* to have your arms and legs covered. While my partner went to buy pants, I watched families getting turned away at the entrance. Why is it always French tourists who make the biggest scenes? It takes 10 minutes to go back out and buy something (they sell clothes at the Palace ticket booth too), yet it’s always the French who stay stuck at the entrance complaining and refusing to leave??
We then walked about 13 minutes to Wat Pho. It takes barely 45 minutes to see the Reclining Buddha. Small offering pots line the wall—you can buy trays of coins, and dropping one in each pot brings good luck. My daughter loved doing that.
Next up: Wat Arun For Wat Arun, you have to take the water shuttle to the other side of the river (still 8 baht). Climbing to the top was fun, but don’t look down if you’re afraid of heights—it’s *very* steep. You can see it all in 30 minutes max. We took the boat back to the other side and returned to Saphan Taksin. We also tried the Orange Line boat—cheaper but you have to stand, and the staff basically yell at you to squeeze in tighter. No screens, so you have to watch the piers to know when to get off. There were students, workers, and even monks on board. Last stop of the day: we went grocery shopping at Big C, a huge supermarket near CentralWorld. Perfect for picking up snacks to bring home. Then we rushed back to the hotel to shower, check out, and leave enough time to reach the airport by taxi—through traffic, of course. And that’s how our trip to this amazing country came to an end . Feel free to ask me any questions, or if you want to know which hotels we stayed at, etc.
The ride to our hotel wasn’t exactly peaceful. We were stuck in traffic for 1 hour and 45 minutes for a trip estimated at 20 minutes. Side note: the few times we took a Grab in Bangkok, they were always old cars with no AC and some kind of reactor in the trunk, so our suitcases couldn’t fit back there. We ended up squished and sweaty in the back seat with our stuff on the front seat. Honestly, I’d strongly advise against taking a car in this city. Even the shortest trip turns into a huge time-waster in traffic.
We stayed 3 nights in a hotel near the BTS National Stadium (the mall district). I misread the return flight time—00:05—and thought we were flying the night of Tuesday, but it was actually Monday. Luckily, we realized in time, but I really regretted losing a night there, and it threw off our sightseeing plans a bit. We didn’t cancel the last hotel night, though—it was handy to shower after a full day of sightseeing before our midnight flight.
Our hotel wasn’t far from the Jim Thomson House Museum. So that was our first “chill” visit after the taxi ordeal. I’d seen it recommended, and I’ll admit I wouldn’t have gone if it weren’t so close to where we were staying. It’s a beautiful house, a breath of fresh air in the city. The museum is visited in groups with a guide in your chosen language. We joined a guide who spoke French very well. It was interesting and lovely, but not a must-see if your stay is short, in my opinion. There were nods to the hit series *The White Lotus*, where characters (including Lisa from Blackpink) wear the brand’s outfits. Located near the khlongs, I tried to take the water shuttles to Khao San Road, but the museum staff talked me out of it. They said it was a bad idea, but I probably should’ve pushed through. I’d read articles on how to take the water shuttles, but I was a bit intimidated. Since it was pouring rain, we made the bad call to take another old taxi without AC that was waiting outside the museum. And off we went for another 1.5 hours in traffic versus the 25 minutes estimated on Google Maps. Absolute nightmare. Plus, the driver didn’t want to drop us off because he wanted to stay on the main road, so we ended up walking the last bit.
How can I even describe the vibe for our visit to Khao San Road? There was torrential rain, and all the stalls were covered. Personally, I didn’t get the hype—aside from a few restaurants and bars, I didn’t find the area interesting, even though we’re usually up for any touristy activity. The atmosphere is probably way different when you’re not soaked to the bone . We quickly headed back to the hotel. Khao San Road is also pretty far out, so we had to take another taxi back.
Floating Market and Railway Market For our second day in Bangkok, we booked a visit to the Railway Market and Floating Market on GetYourGuide, all in one day. The meet-up was at 8:30 AM the next day for a 10-hour tour. First, we took a coach to the station (Ban Laem) to catch the famous train. The ride took over an hour, I think. I thought we’d just see the train pass through the market, but the surprise was that we were *on* the train, heading to Mae Klong. The trip lasted an hour, and the stops in the middle of nowhere (doors opening over water or bushes) had us laughing. When we arrived at Mae Klong Market, we felt like celebrities with all the people filming and waving at us. Our daughter loved it . Once we got off the train, we watched it head back the other way—it’s impressive how quickly vendors pack up and set up their stalls. The train really brushes past people. To my surprise, prices were mostly better than what we found in Chiang Mai. I bought a bunch of souvenirs and gifts.
Next up: Damnoen Saduak Floating Market The guide split us into motorboats. Every now and then, the driver would speed up, which we found hilarious. The older women selling sliced fruit decorated their boats beautifully—we were dazzled by all the colors. It’s worth it for the experience, but not for shopping. We ate there; it was okay, nothing special. For just 57 € for the three of us, we had an amazing day! Sure, it’s super touristy, but we had a blast. The ride back to the city center took 2 hours. So really, plan a full day if you want to do both activities. The coach dropped us off at MBK Center, so we took the chance to check out the malls near our hotel.
MBK Center = lots of items similar to the night markets, but in a clean mall with AC. We liked it. Siam Paragon = very upscale, expensive. There were a lot of Middle Eastern shoppers. CentralWorld = nice, has an aquarium if it’s raining and you’re traveling with kids. We didn’t go. All the malls have great food courts—super handy if your group has different tastes. Everyone can grab what they like. During our stay in Bangkok, we bought food for breakfast every evening and ate in the room. It was pretty confusing figuring out how to get between the malls—they seem close, but the sidewalks are impassable. You always have to use the skywalks (elevated walkways), which add a lot of extra walking. We were exhausted after that whole day!
Third day in Bangkok: off to Chatuchak Sunday Market. What a massive, incredible place—just as amazing as I’d imagined! We loved it and could’ve gone back multiple times. If you like markets, plan your trip so you’re there on the weekend. We picked up some great gifts for friends and coworkers. My daughter was hunting for Labubu, and we were told to check out the building right next to the market. It had tons of figurines and other video game merch. There’s also a nice food court.
After 3-4 hours at Chatuchak, we headed to IconSiam by boat (8 baht per crossing), which is always fun. The Iconsiam shuttle leaves from BTS Saphan Taksin / Sathorn Pier (Exit 2). There’s a great view of the city from the Apple terrace, and even better from the Starbucks and Popmart. There’s a light and sound show at 7 PM, 8 PM, and 9 PM at the base of IconSiam, and we watched it for free from the Popmart terrace. FYI, Banana (the store) has better prices than Apple if you’re looking to buy Apple products cheaper than in Europe. We thought it might be a scam, but the Apple store employee confirmed Banana is legit. On our fourth and last day in Bangkok before our midnight international flight, we hit all the main temples.
Grand Palace Take the BTS to Saphan Taksin, exit 2, and follow the path under the bridge supported by concrete pillars. Several booths sell boat tours. We took the Blue Flag boat, which is for tourists. It was comfortable, with AC, plenty of seats, and not too crowded at 10 AM. The screen announces stops in English, and the staff understand English. Get off at Tha Chang (N9). The Grand Palace is obviously stunning. We visited in 1.5 hours without dawdling—it was *really* hot that morning . Note: it’s the only temple we visited where they didn’t allow sarongs over shoulders/hips for men. Same for women. You *have* to have your arms and legs covered. While my partner went to buy pants, I watched families getting turned away at the entrance. Why is it always French tourists who make the biggest scenes? It takes 10 minutes to go back out and buy something (they sell clothes at the Palace ticket booth too), yet it’s always the French who stay stuck at the entrance complaining and refusing to leave??
We then walked about 13 minutes to Wat Pho. It takes barely 45 minutes to see the Reclining Buddha. Small offering pots line the wall—you can buy trays of coins, and dropping one in each pot brings good luck. My daughter loved doing that.
Next up: Wat Arun For Wat Arun, you have to take the water shuttle to the other side of the river (still 8 baht). Climbing to the top was fun, but don’t look down if you’re afraid of heights—it’s *very* steep. You can see it all in 30 minutes max. We took the boat back to the other side and returned to Saphan Taksin. We also tried the Orange Line boat—cheaper but you have to stand, and the staff basically yell at you to squeeze in tighter. No screens, so you have to watch the piers to know when to get off. There were students, workers, and even monks on board. Last stop of the day: we went grocery shopping at Big C, a huge supermarket near CentralWorld. Perfect for picking up snacks to bring home. Then we rushed back to the hotel to shower, check out, and leave enough time to reach the airport by taxi—through traffic, of course. And that’s how our trip to this amazing country came to an end . Feel free to ask me any questions, or if you want to know which hotels we stayed at, etc.
Warning, this is the only temple we visited where sarongs covering shoulders/hips for men were refused. Same for women. You really need to have your arms and legs covered.
Do we need to have our arms fully covered, meaning long sleeves, or just the shoulders?
Do we need to have our arms fully covered, meaning long sleeves, or just the shoulders?
Anyway, a huge THANK YOU for this travel journal. I’m actually going to reread it tonight. [:)]
Hi, so glad my story was helpful! [:)] I found the sign for the Grand Palace. Here's the photo.
Basically, no tank tops—your shoulders need to be covered. I had a lightweight short-sleeve shirt I wore for temples and linen culottes that barely showed my ankles (I pulled them down over my stomach to gain some length when going through the gates ).
Hi,
I found the sign at the Grand Palace. Here's the photo.
In reality, these rules apply in all temples, even the most "insignificant" ones. Just because there are no signs in others doesn’t mean it’s morally acceptable to enter dressed "sloppily" (for women or men) by Thai standards. When people do it anyway, most of the time they don’t say anything because they’re shy/modest/hypocritical, but that doesn’t stop them from thinking negatively about us. Here, if there’s a sign at the entrance to remind people of the rules and enforce them, it’s not just because you’re entering a temple—it’s also because you’re entering the king’s "home," a type of figure you wouldn’t visit dressed like a "slob."
I found the sign at the Grand Palace. Here's the photo.
In reality, these rules apply in all temples, even the most "insignificant" ones. Just because there are no signs in others doesn’t mean it’s morally acceptable to enter dressed "sloppily" (for women or men) by Thai standards. When people do it anyway, most of the time they don’t say anything because they’re shy/modest/hypocritical, but that doesn’t stop them from thinking negatively about us. Here, if there’s a sign at the entrance to remind people of the rules and enforce them, it’s not just because you’re entering a temple—it’s also because you’re entering the king’s "home," a type of figure you wouldn’t visit dressed like a "slob."
Thanks! 😊
It seems normal to me not to dress "sloppily" in a temple. Unfortunately, some tourists have no respect at all.
That said, the sign isn’t very clear about sleeves. Is a short-sleeved t-shirt—so shoulders covered—acceptable, or do you absolutely need long sleeves?
That said, the sign isn’t very clear about sleeves. Is a short-sleeved t-shirt—so shoulders covered—acceptable, or do you absolutely need long sleeves?
Don’t faint if you see, as I have several times, young Thai women in skirts or even short miniskirts praying like everyone else in a temple.
It really puts things into perspective.
Practically speaking, my wife usually dresses as she normally does—shorts and a t-shirt—and wears a very light sarong over the top, like the ones you can buy in Thailand. Hers has a gecko printed on it. It covers well, and she doesn’t get as hot as she would in a shirt and pants. We’ve never had any comments or disapproving looks. That said, it’s a country where people appreciate a smile and respectful behavior in places of worship. Most don’t really care about the rest.
The most important temples are ranked as 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st royal class, with the Grand Palace completely in a league of its own at the top of the hierarchy. Here and there, the rules are enforced a bit more strictly—but even then, not by much. At the Grand Palace, they don’t mess around with protocol.
Practically speaking, my wife usually dresses as she normally does—shorts and a t-shirt—and wears a very light sarong over the top, like the ones you can buy in Thailand. Hers has a gecko printed on it. It covers well, and she doesn’t get as hot as she would in a shirt and pants. We’ve never had any comments or disapproving looks. That said, it’s a country where people appreciate a smile and respectful behavior in places of worship. Most don’t really care about the rest.
The most important temples are ranked as 4th, 3rd, 2nd, and 1st royal class, with the Grand Palace completely in a league of its own at the top of the hierarchy. Here and there, the rules are enforced a bit more strictly—but even then, not by much. At the Grand Palace, they don’t mess around with protocol.
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Thanks everyone for your really detailed replies.
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