En 2014, Hemingway (Livingstone) nous demandait 300 euros pour nous livrer et/ou reprendre le 4x4 à Lusaka.
Du coup on a fait la boucle depuis Livingstone ;-)
F
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Hello,
C' est vrai que la faune est très semblable (sauf les hippos, je n' ai pas le souvenir d' en avoir vu à LZ),
A+
à Mvu Camp - Lower Zam, les hippos broutaient toute le nuit au pied de notre tente.
Un gros pèrpère était aussi passé juste en dessous de notre bateau durant un boat drive sur la petite rivière peu profonde : j'y avais vu mon guide pâlir... et moi aussi par contre coup..!
Hello,
mais ramener aux bestiaux le contenu de l' un ou l' autre des parcs (que j' apprécie énormément tous deux) serait extrêmement réducteur...
A+
Ahh oui certes. Je suis bien d'accord
Hello,
la frontière de Chirundu n' est pas si compliquée à passer (comme les autres, apparemment les seules frontières compliquées sont celles entre l' AFS et le Zim.), en tout cas plas plus compliquée que les frontières entre les autres pays de la zone..
Moi, la frontière très compliquée à passer que j'ai connue, c'est celle de Roissy, au retour : 2 fonctionniares pour 3 avions qui débarquent, ça donne presque 3 heures pour "rentrer chez soi"... ;-)
A+
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Nous n' avons pas dormi dans la même partie de Mvuu (c' est vrai que ça veut dire hippo en langue locale), tu étais au fond et nous près du bar, pour nous ça a été plutôt la chasse aux singes, et nous avons entendu le rugissement des lions à toute proximité la nuit...
Je n' en ai pas vu lors de nos drives, juste un très gros croc qui me regardait à 100 m alors que je testais un gué à pied pour le retour (je ne l' avais pas vu, c' est T qui me l' a fait remarquer en m' engu.... après coup).
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Moi, la frontière très compliquée à passer que j'ai connue, c'est celle de Roissy, au retour : 2 fonctionniares pour 3 avions qui débarquent, ça donne presque 3 heures pour "rentrer chez soi"... ;-)
je suis bien d'accord.
Nous c'était pour partir, le hall bondé et hôtesses pour enregistrer tout ce monde !!!!. On était arrivé super en avance (au moins 3 heures) et on se disais qu'on allait s'ennuyer ferme ... on a fini par devoir courir dans les couloirs !!!
En partant de province pas de soucis !
Pour prendre un vol de Clermont, tu arrives 30 minutes avant même avec des bagages ...
Lyon en une heure c'est tout bon !
Je prendrai quand même un peu la défense de roissy : le passage de la douane au retour est très rapide, beaucoup plus qu'en AFS par exemple.
C'est du côté des bagages que ça suit pas...🤪
Et puis les pires aéroports du monde sont aux États Unis....
Mana Pools en direct via le site de Zimparks tu t' adresses a Christina Murirho je te donnerai son mail direct.
Les Picnic sites de Hwange toujours avec Christina. Tu risques d' en baver pour payer la plupart des banques Francaises refusent c un pays sous Embargo. LOL.
Je fais payer par ma fille qui est a Munich.
Ton camping a Livingstone ou Vic Falls directement sur le site de l' hebergement. Tu ne paies rien c' est trop compliqué.
Le ferry sur le lac sur leur site.
Ta voiture de loc exclusivement en direct avec ton loueur.
Tu n' oublies pas tes billets d' avion.
Une bonne idée est d' avoir une carte SIM locale tu trouves a l' aéroport tu peux appeler la veille ou le matin pour dire que tu arrives.. surtout si tu veux diner au restau.
Et puis je pourrai le moment venu te donner quelques num de tel utiles pour la Zambie.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
En fait c'est Eric qui a travaillé pour moi, il m'a sorti un itinéraire qui ressemble de près à ce qui me plairait:
J’ aime beaucoup Liuwa, qui n’ a rien à voir avec Busanga, ni le paysage, ni la faune…
Certains spots du campsite donnent directement sur la plaine (qui est de la savane), tu vois en particulier les gnous et oiseaux de ton fauteuil, c’ est top…
Ton idée de faire la partie « ouest » plus Mana est peut être jouable, ce qui serait un peu pénible, c’ est la route depuis L’ Stone à Mana (fichier Mapsoource en annexe).
Prendre le ferry de Mbilizi à Kariba, cela t’ épargne une très grosse tirée de pistes pas terribles. Il faut que tu réserves et que tu vises bien, il n’ y en a pas tous les jours.
Globalement, cela te ferait 3.000 km (donc 3.600 réels) en 67 heures réelles (environ 160 soit 3heures10 en moyenne par jour), inclus game drives etc..
Ceci en intégrant :
Mc Bride’s
Busanga
Kaingu
Liuwa
Sioma Falls
Sioma machin Park
Hwange (Sinamatella / Datema / Masuma).
Une croisière pour Madame Max
Mana
Lower Zambezi
Leopard road
Demande à Pierre et Eric si on peut faire la Leopard Road en montant, du sud vers le nord ???
F
Salut Franck
Jamais essaye dans ce sens.
Tu crois qu' il y a de gros croisements de ponts?
Dans l' autre sens je l' ai trouvee plutot cool par exemple par rapport a certaines pistes du Kaokoland telles que celle qui va de Marienfluss a Hartmann ou en Zambie la montee de l' escarpment dans South Luangwa.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Juste quelques précisions sur la nécessité de réserver ou non en Zambie et au Zimbabwe..
La seule question à observer, c' est de savoir si tu es en période de vacances scolaires sud-africaines ou non, cela ne devrait pas être le cas au mois d' août. Les vacances scolaires Européennes n' ont strictement aucune incidence..
Même chose pour les vols, Zam et Zim ne sont pas des destinations de "tourisme de masse" depuis l' Europe comme l' Asie, voire même la Namibie, si tu veux les meilleurs prix (en particulier sur Ethiopian, qui est excellent sur Lusaka avec transit à Addis), il suffit de t' y prendre trois ou quatre mois à l' avance, mais même en t' y prenant une semaine à l' avance, tu as des billets "economy flex" à environ € 1.000 par tête de pipe.
Je viens de réserver chez eux un Munich / Kigali, retour Kilimandjaro / Munich pour fin juin (mon petit lardon) pour moins de € 800.
Un petit coup de pube pour Ethiopian: leurs billets (même les moins chers) sont remboursables à tout moment avant le départ moyennant une pénalité de $ 50, modifiables pour $ 100.
Pour cela il faut prendre ses billets directement sur le site de la compagnie et éviter les marchands de billets (chez lesquels les prix bas sont très souvent un leurre si on tient compte des frais - dossier, etc.. - ou qui proposent une économie modeste pour des horaires délirants - genre transit de 15 heures à Nairobi, si tu ajoutes les frais d' hôtel, c' est nul)..En plus modification et remboursement quasiment impossibles..
Pour les autres réservations:
A Mana Pools, le camp de Chitake se réserve un an à l' avance et plus, vacances scolaires Sudaf ou pas. Pour Nyamepi, la question est de savoir si tu veux absolument un spot au bord du fleuve (à $ 120 le spot, mais on peut y mettre jusqu' à 10 personnes) ou si tu te contentes des places en deuxième rang (à $ 20 par personne). J' ai utilisé les deux, je ne vois pas de différence majeure (je peux déplacer mon fauteuil de 30 mètres pour m' asseoir au bord de l' eau), cela étant si tu es plus de quatre, cela vaut peut être la peine, mais je me suis déjà pointé à Mana sans réservation et n' ai pas eu de problèmes (pour le deuxième rang)..
Pour Hwange, la nécessité de réserver les "picnic sites" est du au fait qu 'ils sont largement monopolisés par des tours opérators en majorité Zimbabwéens qui s' y installent pour une semaine avec leurs clients.
Enfin, pour le ferry, c' est juste une question de prudence, de mémoire, le bateau peut prendre 15 voitures maxi, c' est donc juste une question de prudence..
Et que faire d' ici un a et demi ?
Des économies ??
Trouver un copain qui voyage plus ou moins seul et prend des passagers pour une semaine ou deux ?
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Le "tout Zam" est plutôt bien, il faudrait peut être que tu passes entre Livingstone et Liuwa par le parc de Sioma bidule et Sioma Falls, de la étudier la piste qui va à Liuwa sans passer par la case Mongu.
De Liuwa, tu peux aller directement à Mayukuyuku avec un rapide arrêt SPAR plus essence à Mongu.
Pour Kafue, une idée (à voir sur le plan du temps consisterait à prendre la "spinal road" au Sud et faire le tour du lac pour aller à Kaingu (un stop entre, il y a des hébergements), puis traverser vers la porte Nord, deux nuit la pour Busanga, ensuite Mc Bride's (il faut deux nuits), cela fait un total de 6 nuits.
De la Lusaka (SPAR) et dormir à Fringilla Farm (protéines animales), ensuite par la great North road Kasanka, peut être le parc aui est au dessus, North Luangwa (traverser dn Nord au Sud), ensuite Mfuwe (SLNP), après Luangwa Bridge (il faut sans doute passer par Chipata pour les courses, Luangwa Bridge, Lower Zambezi via Leopard road, enfin L' Stone sans passer par Lusaka, cela fait une très grosse journée de route...
Il faut juste voir si cela loge dans les 25 jours..
Pour le Zam Zim, même observation pour le début, l' arrêt à Lusaka (Eureka Camp) n' est pas indispensable.
De Kariba, aller à Matusadona en bateau avec la voiture est très aléatoire ce n' est pas le même que celui qui fait la traversée et le débarquement à Matusadona n' a rien d' évident, ni non plus les rotations pour revenir. En plus je ne sais pas ce qu 'ils ont comme hébergements / bouffe etc (en général rien). Il faut vraiment planifier et vérifier. La balade en promène couillons n' est pas évidente, la dernière fois ils n' avaient même pas d' essence pour aller au lodge à côté me chercher de la bière, on a du y aller avec mon tank..
Globalement, j' ai tendance à préférer le tout Zam qui est plus compact...et puis si cela plait à Madame Max, cela te donne l' opportunité de revenir en 2017 pour un tout Zim.
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
En définitive, il y a beaucoup trop de km et d' heures de voiture pour 25 jours, même en simplifiant à l' extrème, c' est à dire en maximisant le temps sur le bitume et en minimisant le nombre de sites visités, on arrive en brut (à majorer de 15 à 20% pour avoir un vrai résultat) à 4031 km (donc 4.800 réels) en 92 heures (110 réelles), donc sur une base de 25 jours une moyenne quotidienne de 192 km en 4h24..
Pf... cela me parait vraiment beaucoup..
En fait et pour moi, cela veut dire clairement qu 'en termes de visite, il y a clairement plusieurs Zambie(s):
L' une à l' Ouest, qui inclut L' Stone, la vallée du Zambèze jusqu' à Mongu, et Kafue, on peut sans trop de problèmes y adjoindre Lower Zambezi, voire un morceau de Zim (sans être trop gourmand).
L' autre à l' est, avec en particulier Kasanka, North et South Luangwa, qui est très éloignée (Lusaka / Kasanka = 525 km, Lusaka SLNP 690 km, et encore 200 vers le Nord pour aller à NLNP..
Pire encore, si on veut passer de la partie Ouest à l' Est, on a près de 800 km sans intérêt de Kafue à Kasanka, et 1.000 jusqu' à SLNP, avec en prime Lusaka à traverser..
AMHA, cette partie Est se marie à la limite mieux avec une escapade au Malawi (mais encore faut-il trouver une voiture de loc sur place, des amis Autrichiens ont fait cela au départ de L' Stone, avec une grosse journée de route à l' aller pour rejoindre Kasanka depuis Lusaka, et une grosse journée de route au retour pour revenir à Lusaka de SLNP)..
On peut également en remontant un peu plus haut faire cette partie "Est Zambie" avec la "Waterfalls road", qui suit différentes chutes d' eau jusqu' à la frontière de la Tanzanie..(à l' étude" pour moi, mais mon Def est déjà à Lilongwe)..
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Super d'avoir un coach ... même s'il faut que je revois ma copie.
Oui tu as raison 4.600 kms avec les "virages" ça fait de trop 🤪
J'aurais quelques questions / remarques pour alimenter ma réflexion:
- Quelqu'un a-t-il fait un walking safari à South Luangwa ? et a une idée du prix ?
- Même question pour Mana Pool ?
- Ca me gêne d'enlever et Hwange et South Luangwa qui semble les parcs où il est le plus facile de voir des animaux en nombre.
- J'ai regardé en enlevant North Luangwa, ça fait déjà 420 kms de moins
J'aimais pas trop l'idée du camping sauvage à Kabanga au nord des Busanga Plains ... mais que c'est cher de loger dans le coin. J'étais prêt à casser la tirelire mais pas à ce point.
Dans la journée depuis Mcbride ou Mayukuyuku c'est pas jouable ?
Le lodge le moins cher pour les Busangas est à 880 $.
Oui, mais les Busanga Plains sont exceptionnelles à tous points de vue !
Par exemple Wild Life Camp à South Luangwa un chalet c'est 68 $ par personne un chalet en self-catering et une tente safari 45.
C'est vraiment une exception plus generalement certains Lodge dand les NP sont effectivement hors de prix sauf Mc Bride's.
Quant a Busanga, Wilderness Safaris a tout simplement rachete tous les hebergements dans Kafue Nord Ouest et a boucle les campsites pour eviter que les clients qu' ils detroussent ne se rendent compte qu' on peut faire pareil a dix fois moins cher.
il est meme arrive a une copine Allemande de se faire dire que l 'entree de cette partie etait reservee aux clients des Lodge!
Egalement on rencontre a Busanga des Rangers des Lodge qui pretendent que l' endroit est prive.
c' est cela la concurrence a la Sudaf (proche de celle a l' anglaise..)
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Il y a de quoi faire des courses à Petauke, que l on peut rejoindre directement depuis slnp, mais c'est plus long que de passer par Chipata (mieux achalandé).
Lower Zambezi via Leopard road,
En venant de l'Est, on peur aussi passer par la North Gate, c'est très sauvage et il y a des paysage très variés. La descente de l'escarpement est sympa.
aller à Matusadona en bateau avec la voiture est très aléatoire ce n' est pas le même que celui qui fait la traversée et le débarquement à Matusadona n' a rien d' évident
Alors là...! je ne crois pas qu il y ait moyen d'arriver à Matusadona avec son 4x4 sur un bateau. Je n'ai pas vu de ponton... Peut être au Lodge à côté (là où j'avais vu les rhinos), mais je ne pense pas.
Le parc au nord de Kasanka, c'est Bangweulu... C'est là Eric qu il y a des Bec en Sabot. Mais là attention à Mme Max : c'est un peu Casus Divorcis.. ;-)
Yop
Franck
Tanzanie-2010
Kawaza Village
Botswana : https://voyageforum.com/v.f?post=2037270
Dans le Sioma Ngwezi NP il y a un endroit (avec une icône de Picnic) qualifié par T4A de "suitable spot for bush camping". Je n' y suis (malheureusement) jamais allé.
Autrement au dernières nouvelles (j' y ai campé en sauvage en Octobre 2013), le Sioma Camp Lodge est fermé pour cause de meurtre du gérant par le proprio (mars 2013).
Autrement il y a un peu plus au Nord le "Touch the Wild" camp (connais pas) et différents lodge.
A 26 km de l' entrée / sortie de Sioma Ngwezi NP il y a également Kabula Lodge, qui a bonne réputation, le patron est un membre assez actif de 4x4community...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Attention quand même, il ne faut pas confondre "aller à quelques mètres de sa voiture dans une zone dégagée" avec un vrai walking safari dans les profondeurs du parc et qui se fait plutôt accompagné ;-)
Oui c'est pas pareil, ni au niveau sensation ... que prix.
Là je suis en train de retomber sur terre, relativement durement.
Pour le 4x4 je pense qu'il faut compter 200 $ par jour ?
Hello,
C' est vrai que la Zambie est chère sur certains points, sans pour autant éxagérer, globalement ce n' est pas plus cher que le Botswana, plus cher que la Namibie, l' AFS et le Malawi, sensiblement moins cher que la Tanzanie et le Kenya (je suis en train de me colleter avec le sujet, et j' avoue que payer $ 240 / jour pour aller avec mon petit fils à Serengeti et Ngorongoro ou Masai Mara me reste quelque peu en travers du gosier), je ne parle même pas des fees pour le "gorilla tracking" en Ouganda..
La différence sans doute, c' est ainsi que je me console, c' est de se dire que les sites Tanzanie Kenya Uganda sont visités "once in a lifetime" (c' est dommage pour eux) alors qu 'on peut revenir régulièrement en Zambie et au Zimbabwe sans hypothéquer sa maison ni vendre les bijoux de famille...
Concrètement et sur la Zambie:
- Location de voiture: fais tes calculs avec soin, je ne suis pas sur que des boites comme KEA ou Bushlore ne soient pas plus avantageuses, compris des frais de livraison en Zambie. Mes potes de Vienne (Autriche) avaient en Novembre dernier un superbe Toy HZJ double cab avec tente de toit de chez Bushlore pour € 170 / jour compris livraison à Lusaka ( c' est cher, mais c' est franchement le modèle le plus cher sur le marché).
Tu peux aussi - sait on jamais - demander à Foley s' ils ont un vieux Def à te louer, c' est sûrement pas très cher, et je peux aider à négocier avec Nick Selby (le proprio) je le connais bien.
Il leur arrive de louer des véhicules, en particulier parmi ceux qu 'ils ont à vendre.
- Une bonne nouvelle, les carburants, après avoir monté de 20% fin 2012 pour des raisons fiscales, ont rebaissé pour les mêmes raisons fin 2014, actuellement pour le diesel 6,6 ZMK soit environ € 0,90 ce qui est extrêmement civil.
- Bouffe et restaus comme en Namibie / Bots.
- Entrées dans les parcs Nationaux:
Parcs Publics gérés par ZAWA (Kafue, SLNP, NLNP, LZ): ZMK 126 pp / jour (€ 17), éventuellement seulement 104 pour si tu es en transit (il faut juste le dire à la gate, ils ont mauvaise mémoire), plus ZMK 50 (€ 6,75) pour la voiture.
Parcs gérés par African Parks (Liuwa et Bangweulu): $ 40 par personne, camping $ 15
Kasanka: € 7 par tête, € 8 pour la voiture.
- En général les campsite sont à $ 15 pp/nuit, peut être Buffalo est plus cher, c' est à vérifier.
Globalement (mon ressenti), et par rapport aux pays avoisinants, juste entrées dans les parcs plus chère, et auparavant carburant plus cher...
A+
Le bonheur commence où le bitume s 'arrête et ....quand on est plus de quatre on est une bande de c... (Georges Brassens)
Entrées dans les parcs Nationaux:
Parcs Publics gérés par ZAWA (Kafue, SLNP, NLNP, LZ): ZMK 126 pp / jour (€ 17)
Nouveauté 2015, le tarif selfdriver à 30$/jour pour South Luangwa et Lower Zambezi.
North Luangwa est dorénavant à 25$. Kafue reste à 20$.
Le prix pour la voiture a aussi augmenté : 15$/jour pour une voiture immatriculée à l'étranger et 17 ZMW pour une voiture immatriculée en Zambie (ça peut compter un peu dans les calculs concernant le choix loueur).
Sauf que là, on parle de protéger les 880 derniers gorilles des montagnes du monde ... Ce n'est pas la même approche. Ce prix, c'est ce qui leur sauve la peau.
Suis chatouilleuse avec mes amis gorilles 😄 😄 😄
Quant au Serengeti, à force de compter 1 voiture pour 1 gnou, faut pas s'étonner de cette conséquence sur les prix ... 🙁
Alors où que j'en suis.. après la crise d'amaigrissement 🤪
J1 arrivé Livingstone
J2 L'stone - Sioma Falls
J3 Sioma Falls - Liuwa Plains
J4 Liuwa Plains
J5 Liuwa Plains
J6 Liuwa - Kafue (Mayukuyuku)
J7 Kafue, petit tour vers le sud, nuit toujours Mayukuruku)
J8 Kafue vers le nord en passant par les Bussangas, nuit à la porte nord (Kasanga)
J9 Kafue, de la porte nord à Mc Bride
J10 Kafue, dans le secteur de Mc Bride
J11 Mc Bride - Fringilla Farm
J12 Fringilla Farm - Lower Zambezi
J13 Lower Zambezi
J14 Lower Zambezi
J15 Lower Zambezi - Mana Pool
J16 Mana Pool (camp exclusif)
J17 Mana Pool (camp exclusif)
J18 Mana Pool (camp exclusif)
J19 Mana Pool (Chitake)
J20 Mana Pool - Kariba
J21 Kariba (tour sur le lac)
J22 Kariba - Livingstone
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Hello everyone!
It's been a year since I've been longing for South Africa. Our first trip in August 2025 amazed us, and—rarely—it was a unanimous hit with our little family! We were touched to the core, and from the moment we got home, we couldn’t stop talking about going back. 😄
I’d like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who gave me advice on the itinerary for that first trip (Johannesburg loop: Blyde, Kruger, Eswatini, St. Lucia, Durban, Drakensberg)! Thanks to you, our trip went like a dream!
Since then, I haven’t stopped reading articles and discussions on VoyageForum to keep my head in South Africa a little longer!
So, we finally caved and just booked our tickets for January 2027 (from the 3rd to the 26th), with a plan to do a road trip from Cape Town to Johannesburg in about 3 weeks.
I’ve got a rough itinerary that seems great based on what I’ve read on various forums, but there are still some uncertain points, and that’s where I could use your advice.
3/01: Arrival in Johannesburg at 11:45 PM
4/01: Flight to Cape Town, pick up rental car. Afternoon sightseeing
5,6,7/01: Cape Town to visit the big classics in the area (any tips for finding accommodation: which neighborhood, a specific place?)
8/01: Overnight stop before Oudtshoorn—but where??? (Is it essential, or is the CT-Oudtshoorn drive manageable? If so, I’d gain a day in Oudtshoorn. Google Maps shows over 5 hours of driving...)
9,10/01: Oudtshoorn (or would 3 nights be better to really enjoy the area?)
11,12/01: Knysna, Plettenberg Bay (to have time for hiking—if you’ve got hiking tips, I’m all ears!)
13,14/01: Tsitsikamma (still to have time for hiking—who knows the must-do hikes in the area? But maybe 4 nights in the Knysna-Tsitsikamma area is too much—I’m not sure)
16,17/01: Addo Elephant (I’m torn between 3 nights at Addo or 3 nights at Mountain Zebra. Based on travel journals, especially Michel’s on MZ, I’ve scheduled 3 nights at MZ 😄...)
18,19,20/01: Mountain Zebra NP
21/01: Camdeboo NP (because it looks so beautiful!)
22/01: Overnight stop (where?) before wrapping up the trip with either 2 or 3 nights at Golden Gate NP or the Lesotho option, which appeals to me, but I don’t know if it’s doable in 3 days to be back in Johannesburg by the afternoon of the 26th.
That’s my trip idea for now...
I’m eagerly waiting for your advice, ideas, and comments...
Can’t wait to be back there again!
I’m planning a potential trip to Namibia for a classic circuit in April 2027.
I’m surprised by how expensive the accommodations inside the parks are—really steep! Is it possible to stay outside the parks but still close enough to enjoy the game drives?
Do you have any recommendations for more reasonably priced lodging? I’m okay with spending 200 to 250 € per night.
No camping—the friend I’m traveling with absolutely refuses 😉, but maybe upgraded tents would work.
Hi everyone,
We’re revising our travel plans for January 2027. Originally, we were considering Uganda for about 14/15 days, but given the current health situation and the restrictions that might affect my partner, who’s American, we’ve decided to switch to Tanzania instead.
I’m used to traveling in South Africa and organizing my trips myself, but I get the impression that planning a safari in Tanzania is quite different.
I know self-drive isn’t really an option in Tanzania. So my main question is: can you organize your own itinerary and book lodges directly, then hire a local driver-guide? Or is it better to go through a local agency that handles the entire safari?
For the itinerary, which parks would you recommend for a first-time visit in January? Serengeti, Ngorongoro, Tarangire, Manyara, Ruaha, Arusha, Selous…
We’d also like to include Zanzibar to end the trip with a few days at the beach. Over 14/15 days, does that sound realistic or too ambitious?
Finally, for flights, is it better to arrive at Kilimanjaro (JRO) or Dar es Salaam (DAR) based on the itinerary we’re considering?
Thanks in advance for your feedback, especially on the best way to organize the safari and which parks to prioritize in January!
Hi, I'm looking for information on the road conditions in Moremi. We're leaving in 15 days, and from what I've heard, the roads are pretty tough to drive on. Any advice?
Thanks
Dream of standing on the roof of Africa at 5,895 m?
I’m looking for 4 people to complete our group for the Kilimanjaro ascent in Tanzania.
📅 September 17–28, 2026
👥 Small group
🥾 Suitable for experienced hikers
🏔️ Goal: Uhuru Peak – 5,895 m
🇹🇿 Local team specialized in Kilimanjaro
🎒 Porters during the ascent
🍽️ Meals and trek organization included
🧗♂️ Trip led by a French state-certified Mountain Leader
September is a great time to attempt the Kilimanjaro ascent.
🔥 Only 4 spots left. The departure is confirmed.
No need to be a mountaineer—just be in good shape, love hiking, and want to experience an incredible adventure.
👋 If you’re alone, no problem: you’ll join our small group directly.
📧 Send me a message for the full program, price, and all the details.
Don’t hesitate to share this post with your hiking friends! 😊
Mafate Randos
Just returned from a three-week family trip to Kenya (with three kids aged 10, 12, and 15), and I wanted to share my experience. Forums were super helpful in planning this trip, especially if you want to get a bit off the beaten path.
First off, Kenya is an amazing destination with incredibly friendly and welcoming locals. It was easy to travel around because you can always find someone to give you directions or help you out.
For practical tips—though you’ve probably read this elsewhere—get a Safaricom SIM card when you arrive at the airport so you can pay via M-Pesa (you can top it up with a credit card using the Wise app) and chat with people on WhatsApp. It’ll make your life *so* much easier (booking trains, buses, park entries, etc.) and save you from carrying too much cash or hunting for ATMs.
Also, we went during the first three weeks of July, which wasn’t peak tourist season.
One thing to note: even if you’re using public transport and budget accommodations, Kenya can still be pricey because tourist attractions add up fast—often more expensive than in France. But honestly, it’s usually worth it!
We started our trip with a 5-day homestay. We were welcomed by a really lovely family in Loitokitok with a view of Kilimanjaro right from their garden entrance (just a heads-up: in July, it’s often shrouded in mist!). To find them, search for Greenfield Homestay in Loitokitok. It was a fantastic experience, especially with kids! On top of transfers, they organized several outings with locals: a hike to the Tanzanian border, a motorcycle ride on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, and a day safari in Amboseli. You can book with them eyes closed! For the safari, Anthony (who’s English-speaking) took us around—he’s from the area and knows the park like the back of his hand. Highly recommend him!
Anthony then drove us to Isiolo, a town in the north that’s just starting to open up to tourism. We wanted to see the Monday livestock market, where different ethnic groups gather to buy and sell goats, sheep, and cows (according to Lonely Planet). We were a bit disappointed and wouldn’t recommend it. We also visited Ngare Ndare Forest, which has a stunning waterfall, an interesting walk with an armed ranger (elephants are common), and a suspension bridge for admiring the canopy. Just make sure to let them know you’re coming at least three days in advance to guarantee a ranger will be available. We also did a second safari day in Samburu—it’s a great complement to Amboseli and totally worth it!
Next, we headed to Naivasha (still with Anthony). We found a place on Airbnb (Jasmine House) at Fischerman’s Camp, a campsite we really loved! You’ll spot hippos, monkeys, and beautiful birds there. We organized several activities: a boat ride on the lake to see birds, zebras, and giraffes; a bike safari in Hell’s Gate Park (the campsite is right by the entrance and rents bikes); and a hike to Crater Lake (departing by boat from the campsite), where you walk among zebras, giraffes, and different gazelles. Naivasha is way more touristy than Loitokitok or Isiolo, but there’s no shortage of things to do.
Finally, we spent our last week in Watamu on the coast. To get there, we took an overnight ENA Coach bus from Naivasha to Mombasa, booked via https://www.travler.africa/. It was comfortable and fast, but you’ll need to call the driver to arrange a pickup spot—the restaurant staff at the campsite helped us out with that! Then we took an Uber to Watamu since we had a lot of luggage (we skipped the matatu).
Watamu is nicknamed "Little Italy" because of all the Italian tourists. When we were there (third week of July), it wasn’t peak season yet, so the beaches weren’t cleaned. But we loved the laid-back vibe and how easy it was to get around. We *highly* recommend the marine turtle rescue center—it’s fascinating (especially with kids) and supports a great cause! We were a bit disappointed by the marine park, though—maybe because of the season? There weren’t many fish, and jellyfish kinda ruined the snorkeling. The mangrove tour is also a must-do.
For the trip back to Nairobi, we took the express train from Mombasa. We booked our tickets when we first arrived in Kenya (since payment is only via M-Pesa). The train is reliable and comfortable, and we saw lots of elephants along the way. Just a heads-up: there are *a lot* of security checks, and we almost weren’t allowed to board with our Opinel knife…
If you have any questions, feel free to ask!
All in all, we had an amazing trip—so much variety, great encounters, and the magic of safaris!
My trip to South Africa is getting closer (still 2 months to go 😏), and I’m diving back into my itinerary: from Saturday to the following Sunday around Cape Town, then from Sunday to the following Saturday in Kruger.
For Cape Town, the plan was to avoid changing accommodation every day (we’ll do enough of that in the second part) but still see different landscapes.
I know, I’m missing out on a lot, but you’ve got to make choices, and after all this time, I know what I like—and especially what I don’t (or like less) 😉
Here’s the breakdown:
Arrival Saturday at 11 AM: heading to Hermanus (2 nights). The idea is to stroll along the cliff path in the afternoon, and possibly drive to the Klein River Lagoon. Sunday: Stony Point, then depending on time and weather, a hike in Kogelberg Nature Reserve or Fernkloof Nature Reserve (which seems less scenic but has shorter walks).
Monday: drive to Franschhoek (1 night). If everything lines up, a hike in Jonkershoek NR and a visit to a wine estate.
Tuesday: drive to Mountceder Lodge in the Cederberg (2 nights). I’m thinking of visiting the Stadsaal Caves and the elephant paintings, and maybe one of the hikes listed on the lodge’s site or Maltese Cross.
Thursday: heading to Hout Bay for 3 nights. In no particular order: a classic day trip around the peninsula, half a day at Kirstenbosch Gardens, and half a day at Lion’s Head.
Sunday: flight to Johannesburg.
My questions are mostly about (short) hikes:
Has anyone here done hikes in Kogelberg, Fernkloof, or Jonkershoek?
At Mountceder Lodge (Michel, if you’re reading this… 😉), has anyone tried the hikes (guided or not) offered by the lodge?
There’s still half a day to fill when we’re in Hout Bay—any ideas (not necessarily hikes)?
Lastly, regarding safety: the French foreign ministry (always alarmist, but still) recommends hiking in groups. Is it really risky in broad daylight? (I’m not sure a group of two women counts as a "group"…)
Thanks in advance for your answers, ideas, and comments!
Question: we’re doing a 3-week trip in Namibia, including 5 days for Victoria Falls.
I’ve booked one night in Brandberg, and then I have some questions.
I was thinking of spending 2 nights in Palmwag, then heading to Etosha for one night in Okaukuejo and then 2 nights in Halali.
Alternatively, from Brandberg, I could book a night near Galton Gate and then enter Etosha.
I’m not really sure about the distances, especially with a 4x4.
Same for the return trip: Halali to Windhoek seems long. Maybe it’d be smart to break it up on the way back? (We have 2 days to get back if needed.) If so, where?
Jambo! I organized my trip through this kind of group, so I thought I’d share my experience here. We traveled as a group of four, including two kids aged 9 and 11. After requesting around twenty quotes, I decided to book the safari portion with MAKING MEMORIES IN AFRICA. Ally responded quickly and listened to all my requests—unlike other agencies—such as having a French-speaking guide, the order of park visits (Tarangire, Manyara, Serengeti, then Ngorongoro), and a mix of budget hotels and camping to keep costs down. There were still four agencies in the running, and price was the deciding factor. Even though they were the cheapest, I felt better taken care of than with others. For example, all meals were prepared by a Maasai chef, Louis, who accompanied us throughout the trip, while some others ate meals out of cardboard boxes. Samuel, our guide, explained so many things and answered all our questions. José drove us safely the whole way. Everything was done with great cheer!
At the end of the stay, Ally came to meet us and gave us t-shirts with the agency’s logo—we loved that they took the time to hear our feedback in person. In short, I highly recommend them +++, especially since it’s a local agency that also supports a charity for women and children.
For Zanzibar, I organized everything myself. I hesitated for a long time but eventually booked all four nights at the same place. We don’t like crowds, so I initially considered Jambiani but ended up choosing EVERGREEN BUNGALOWS in Bwejuu. We took their first airport-to-hotel transfer since we arrived at night, and it felt safer. Great value for money, in our opinion. Just be aware that it’s quite isolated—perfect for relaxing and going on excursions. There were very few beach vendors, unlike what I’d read about Zanzibar. We lived with our feet in the sand from morning to night, with a small basin of water outside our room to rinse off. Such a lovely spot!
I had asked for some excursion prices before leaving but ended up booking on-site. Not at our hotel, but at a nearby restaurant that was cheaper. After some thought, since we were based in Bwejuu, I wanted to do Blue Lagoon and Pungume (both departing from the south of Zanzibar).
Blue Lagoon: About 3 hours total, with snorkeling on a small reef full of fish (coral wasn’t great) and a stop at a spot with tons of starfish, plus local snacks, fruit, and drinks.
Pungume: An amazing day with a 50% chance of seeing dolphins (we missed them), a visit to the mangroves, then snorkeling at a spot with some nice coral and, of course, fish. We ended with a fantastic grill (tuna, shrimp, squid, lobster, and fries) on a sandbank in the shade.
Finally, before heading to Stone Town, we visited Paje Cave, which is much less known than Maalum. It’s smaller, but we saw bats, went for a swim, and fed the chickens and rabbits (great for the kids). To finish, we explored Stone Town on our own and had dinner at Forodhani Market.
For flights, we flew with Turkish Airlines from Barcelona to Kilimanjaro and back from Zanzibar—no issues there. However, I don’t recommend the Kilimanjaro-Zanzibar leg with Precision Air. Our luggage didn’t arrive, and according to the hotel, this happens often. We only got it back a day and a half later.
March or May 2027.
Around 15 days in the Western Cape,
then 15 days in the southern KNP.
Arrival either in PE or George.
The pros know I’m somewhat familiar with the area... that I don’t camp... that my accommodations can be simple and remote, self-catering but with basic comforts... that I’m looking for spots that are a bit off the beaten path... in a relaxed mode...
From George:
Late arrival... need some rest... Herolds Bay from George to the N1.
Tsitsikamma is catching my eye (Storms River)... with or without a stop in Knysna.
Question:
What’s the current condition of the pass from Knysna to Uniondale? R339.
And while I’m at it, the condition of the R340.
Tsitsikamma, Knysna, and my questions still apply if arriving in PE.
Is the Swartberg still closed?
Any recommendations for accommodation in Prince Albert?
If I cross the escarpment, I’ll continue via Anysberg NR, Touwsrivier... any thoughts?
From there... Tankwa Karoo or Mount Cedar (or both).
Then heading back down to the coast... the highlands of Hermanus or Kogelberg NR (any opinions on the latter?).
Or,
A more classic route along the coast...
If I arrive (fairly late) in PE... any ideas for accommodation in that little area?
Given that Nyathi Camp is winking at me...
(For context... a while back, I stayed at Riverbend (same Addo sector, private concession)... and I visited the ruins of that abandoned lodge at the time, which has clearly been renovated since... located in a very quiet part of Addo...).
Any feedback from the pros?
Well, that’s about it...
I’m open to any other tips or advice!
I’m reaching out with a question about which park to choose for a 3-day safari in Kenya.
After 20 days in Uganda, I’m meeting up with my dad for a 3-day safari (that works for him). We’ll be meeting in Nairobi and have a full day to travel to a park (preferably the farthest from Nairobi to avoid crowds?) and spend 4 nights there before heading back to the capital for our flight to France.
I’d love to hear your recommendations since I’ve read so many great tips on this forum.
At the end of July, we’re heading to Namibia with a group of five for a three-week road trip and visit to the national parks.
We’ve read conflicting info about buying entry tickets—either online (where?) or at the gate when we arrive?
I’d love to hear your thoughts on the agencies you used to plan your trip to Uganda.
There’s the whole issue of gorilla permits, which need to be booked in advance and involve a significant financial commitment. That’s where I’m at with my trip planning. Between checking lutb.go.ug/ and reading online reviews, it’s hard to move forward with confidence.
I contacted the French Embassy, but they don’t provide any recommendations. I almost booked with an agency that had a really bad review from February specifically about the permit process.
How did you go about choosing your agency? Given the large sum involved, I’m this close to booking through a travel agency in France for this part.
From what I understand, no matter which agency books the permit, you’re ultimately guided by professionals trained for gorilla trekking based on the permit itself? I’m assuming that’s how it works.
Thanks for your feedback, and I’m really happy to see the forum’s new energy—it’s been super helpful to me in the past.
We’re heading to Uganda next summer for three weeks with our two kids, who’ll be 7 and 9 years old.
We’ve been to Southern Africa before but not East Africa, and after a trip to South Africa two years ago, the kids wanted to return to Africa, while we wanted to explore a new region while staying independent... Uganda’s been catching our eye for a while, and with Rwandair offering relatively attractive prices, we’re going for it!
We’ll be traveling in a 4x4 (self-drive) with roof tents. I don’t have any 4x4 driving experience, so it’ll be a first for me, but we’ll manage 😉 No great apes for us—kids need to be 15, and we don’t want to do that experience without them.
I don’t usually ask the forum much for trip planning, but this time, I’d love your thoughts and advice!
First question: Karamoja or not? At first glance, if we want to add it to a "classic" loop in the southwest, it doesn’t seem realistic—too packed, too much driving. We could consider doing the full loop via Kidepo and then heading down to Murchison, but I’m worried the trip might feel less varied and less kid-friendly. That said, the region looks stunning, and I’m struggling to accept not going at all... What do you think?
If we skip Karamoja, we’d do a loop: Murchison/Fort Portal/QENP/Bunyonyi/Mburo, which seems pretty comprehensive and would let us take our time, which is nice. A few random questions:
- How much time should we plan for the Fort Portal area? I was thinking at least 3 days to visit Bigodi Swamp, walk around the craters, and maybe do a community walk (any thoughts on that?).
- Between Murchison Falls and the Fort Portal area, is it worth breaking up the drive? I spotted Lake Albert Safari Lodge on the shores of Lake Albert—it’s not too expensive and looks nice.
- I’d love to do some easy walks/hikes at the foot of the Rwenzori Mountains, ideally without a guide, but it doesn’t seem straightforward. Do you know if it’s possible to do nice walks independently? I’ve read about hikes in the hills near Kilembe but nothing very specific. Maybe staying somewhere at the foot of the mountains, like Ruboni Community Camp, would allow that.
- Lake Mutanda looks really cool, and so does Lake Bunyonyi... Ideally, I’d like to see both, but won’t that feel repetitive? Is Lake Mutanda worth the detour?
Last practical question, since we don’t have experience with this: for the car with kids, would you recommend two tents (a bit more space) or a four-person tent?
I’ll stop here—already a lot of questions...
Thanks in advance for your feedback, and looking forward to exchanging ideas!
Gabriel
We’re planning our second trip to South Africa in July 2026. In 2023, we did a loop from Joburg, Golden Gate, Drakensberg, Hluhluwe, St Lucia, Eswatini, Kruger, Blyde River Canyon, and back to Joburg.
This time, we’d like to go to Cape Town and do a road trip to Port Elizabeth, then fly back to Joburg to return to Kruger. At this stage of my planning, here’s what it could look like:
D1 to D4: Cape Town and Cape of Good Hope (Table Mountain, Lion’s Head, Waterfront, Bo-Kaap, Boulders, Cape Point, Chapman’s Peak Drive). I’ve spotted a few places to stay between Camps Bay and Hout Bay (3 nights).
D5 and D6: Either Karoo NP or Hermanus and De Hoop. Any opinions to tip the scales? I’ll admit I’m already leaning toward Karoo (the "wild" vibe of the landscapes and wildlife encounters appeal to me much more than the seaside, which feels less exotic). If we go for Karoo, where should we stay? Inside the park or in Beaufort West? I’ve seen good reviews for Ko-ka Tsara Bush Camp, but maybe it’s better to stay in the Sanparks cottages to make the most of the park? (2 nights)
Option B is to do Stellenbosch (though vineyards aren’t great in winter) and/or the Whale Route—Betty’s Bay, Hermanus, De Hoop (2 nights near Gansbaai).
D7 and D8: Klein Karoo, Oudtshoorn. Staying at De Cango Guest Farm (2 nights).
D9 and D10: Knysna, Robberg Nature Reserve, Tsitsikamma (2 nights in Plettenberg Bay and 1 night in PE).
D11: Flight from Port Elizabeth to Joburg at 7 AM and drive to Marloth Park.
For Kruger, I’ve booked 2 nights in Marloth Park, 1 night in Skukuza, 2 nights in Satara, and 1 night in Talamati, which we loved. I’ll book the last night in Graskop later since we want to revisit the Blyde Canyon area.
I’d love all the feedback you can give on my itinerary, especially for days 5 and 6.
If you have recommendations for accommodations for 4 people, I’d appreciate those too.
Thanks! 🙂
We’re a family of four (two daughters aged 18 and 21) and we’re planning a three-week trip to Tanzania. Zanzibar would be our main base, but we’d also like to do a safari on the mainland.
Could you share any tips on:
- the ideal length for such a safari, the best place to go during this period (and easily accessible by flight from Zanzibar)
- your recommendations for the most suitable type of stay for a family like ours
- reliable local agencies with reasonable prices that could help us with this plan
Hi everyone, I’m here to get some advice on visiting KRUGER Park.
From what I’ve gathered through my reading, I understand there are two ways to visit the park:
- Independently with your own vehicle
=> Do you drive all day?
- By booking with a professional
=> Safari early in the morning and late in the afternoon. But what do you do in between?
When it comes to accommodations, the options are:
- Booking in one of the park’s camps, where the lodging is basic but functional
- Booking in a private reserve, which is more comfortable but prohibitively expensive
- Booking outside the park, which means entering the park every morning. But if you want to stay for 3 days, that doesn’t seem practical to me.
Do you have any advice for accommodations?
To be honest, I’m really struggling to understand how it all works...
Thanks to everyone for your help.
Bidule 27
Hey everyone!
Heading to Namibia in a few days and I just read that the entry fees for all parks in Namibia have skyrocketed. Increases between 86 and 100%, and this has been in effect since April 1st (no joke). Have any of you heard about this, and if so, do you know if it’s actually being enforced?
For example, the fee for Etosha has gone from 150 NAD to 280 NAD per day per person.
Thanks in advance!
I’m really interested in traveling to South Africa in September 2020. My question is whether I should go on an organized tour or plan my own itinerary. Organized trips are pretty expensive $$$$, but the security aspect reassures me. I’d love to hear your thoughts on safety in South Africa and whether it’s easy to arrange activities like visiting vineyards, Cape Town, and going on a safari on our own. Which is better in terms of cost—booking an organized trip or doing it ourselves? It’s definitely less exciting to follow a group for 10 days. We’re a couple in our 50s who love nature.
😊🦁
We’re heading out in April 2027 with our 4x4 to explore part of Southern Africa. Right now we’re researching all these beautiful countries and deciding where to ship our vehicle. We’re from Le Havre—has anyone here already shipped from that port to South Africa or East Africa?
As for all these countries, is wild camping allowed, tolerated, easy, or difficult?
We’ve already visited a few, but you can read just about anything online, so getting tips from real independent travelers is way better :)
We’re all ears for any hacks, experiences, or spots you’d recommend.
See you on the road with Doddy
Hi,
I’m starting to plan a great trip for the last three weeks of January 2027 (my first time in South Africa).
After spending a few hours (!) browsing this forum, here’s a rough first draft of my itinerary:
D0 Arrival at JNB
D1, D2 Blyde River Canyon
D3, D4, D5, D6, D7: Kruger
D8, D9, D10: St Lucia and surrounding area
D11, D12, D13, D14: Drakensberg + Lesotho
D15 A very long driving day to the south (hope the AC doesn’t break down!)
D16, D17, D18, D19 southwest coast (so far I’ve noted Oudtshoorn, Robberg Nature Reserve, Wilderness NP, De Hoop Reserve, and a bit of the wine route)
D20, D21 Cape Town (peninsula and a bit of the city) + domestic flight and return flight (departure from JNB at 11 PM)
A few questions before refining this:
- Do you see any major issues with this itinerary?
- We don’t have a choice on dates, and personally, I prefer green landscapes to desert ones anyway, but do you really see far fewer animals in January than in the dry season? Five days in Kruger should give us enough time to spot plenty of different animals despite the tall grass, right? As for the heat, we’re from Réunion, so we’re relatively used to it, even though I know it’s not the same type of heat.
- Can I trust the distances and driving times given by Google Maps?
- Picking up the vehicle in Johannesburg and dropping it off in Cape Town: how much might that cost us? I’m thinking it probably won’t be worse (in terms of time or money, since there are five of us—2 adults + 3 kids) than going back to Joburg after Lesotho, taking a flight to Cape Town, and renting another vehicle... but maybe I’m wrong.
- Finally, wouldn’t it be better to focus on just one of the two regions (either the northeast or Cape Town and the south coast)? If it were up to me, I’d stick to the first part and extend a few stops... but not everyone agrees! And we’re thinking that since it’ll be really hot, a second part of the trip that’s a bit """cooler""" would be welcome.
I imagine many of you have been captivated by the Masai Mara park and/or your safari experience with Tony Crocetta/Melting Pot Safari. Still, I’d like to share my perspective.
First, I’m an avid traveler, especially in love with Africa, which my partner and I have explored a bit (Zambia, South Africa, Botswana, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Namibia...).
That said, I want to express my deep disappointment with both the Masai Mara and Tony Crocetta’s camp, Melting Pot Safari, where we stayed last year.
First, about the park: it’s stunning, no doubt. But what a highly touristy place! I can’t find the words to describe the horror of being among 30 4x4 vehicles lined up in front of a lioness hunt, let alone encircling her right after her kill while her prey is still alive in her jaws... no respect for wildlife. The same goes for surrounding a young leopard playing with its small prey, a moment when I counted over 50 vehicles, most with their engines running... sickening. I turned away, both my gaze and my camera. What a disaster to see this natural wonder of Africa turned into a tourist hotspot.
Yes, I loved this place on Earth, but no, I won’t "promote" it anywhere or to anyone.
Next, I also wanted to share my dissatisfaction with Tony Crocetta’s famous camp, Melting Pot Safari: where to begin? We booked a private vehicle for four with two friends, and I have no complaints about the vehicle itself (though it obviously came at a cost). The windows and the vehicle weren’t very photo-friendly, but let’s move on.
The trip between the sisters’ guesthouse (which was fine) and the camp went smoothly, except we arrived a bit too late. Result: "We’ll leave for the safari an hour later today because the driver has to respect his rest hours." Perfect—with park formalities, we only spent about an hour in the park that evening. The safari got off to a great start...
During our 12-day stay, we saw some amazing things. Tony wasn’t at the camp—I don’t know what the atmosphere is like when he’s there, but it was rather cold during our trip. Sylvie, his wife, barely looked at us, never asking how our day, night, or game drive went (I think she spoke to us once during the stay, plus the day we arrived, of course). We felt invisible... (if I were mean, I’d say the money had already been deposited into Melting Pot’s bank account.)
The evening meals, if I may say so, were a joke: not enough dessert (aside from fruit, but the few elaborate desserts—like 10 for 18 guests) for everyone, barely enough meat or sides. If you were unlucky like us and ended up with a group of 15 people who decided to skip the starter, you’d better hurry to get your main course, or there might not be any left—and no refills... We always ate our fill, but sometimes we had to serve ourselves in advance.
Finally, I want to correct something about the quality of the meals: seriously, this buffet was really mediocre and far from the culinary standards I’d read about in my pre-trip research (see their Facebook page).
Anyway, let’s move past the food—after all, the avocados were sublime, and we’re not there primarily to eat.
About the tent: the river views were beautiful, and the beds were very comfortable. No running water, individual showers outside the tent, and dry toilets—but it’s Africa, so we weren’t shocked. However, I’m disappointed that for this "modest" price, I wasn’t warned there’d be no soap (and no, I don’t travel with my own soap—and for the price, a little bar in the tent wouldn’t be a luxury). But let’s move on—the hippo views were fantastic. Oh, and to preserve the Masai Mara’s water (which makes sense) and for hygiene reasons, underwear isn’t washed by the camp staff—fair enough. But then what’s that little sign next to the bed? Oh right, for a hefty sum, underwear suddenly becomes "washable"...
Finally, my biggest gripe is about the essential part: the game drives. In France, they sell you a dream with a "photo safari" (what’s the difference, really? A room with a few more electrical outlets?). They promise guides especially suited for photography (not a given, sorry) and vehicles that can get close to animals and go off-road... but here’s the catch: the guides are bound by park laws and hounded by rangers looking to fine rule-breakers. Result: as soon as a white ranger vehicle is spotted, we have to abandon our spot for a wild chase through the grass. Fun once... The next day, we learned that another group’s guide got caught and had to pay $100 for breaking the rules—a sum he casually asked the travelers in his vehicle to cover... because of course, Melting Pot lures tourists with dreams, the poor rangers try to get close, all while breaking park laws... and they break those laws for Crocetta’s company, which, of course, won’t dip into its profits to pay the fines. Basically, it’s "keep the clients happy, but don’t get fined—or the fines are on you or you’ll have to ask the clients directly." Nice boss! Anyway, there were long discussions about this last year, especially among the guests in the fined vehicle. My partner and I found these practices unacceptable, and we were deeply disappointed by this attitude.
I know many people adore this park and/or this company—maybe you were luckier... or maybe you’re less demanding than we are when it comes to respecting rules, nature, and clients. But after traveling through much of southern Africa, I can tell you we personally came back frustrated from this experience and aren’t eager to return... You’ve been warned.
Here’s my feedback after a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, months of prep exchanges (over eight months!), and phone calls right up to departure day, the guide didn’t honor the commitments we’d agreed on.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com—who we’d organized everything with—didn’t meet us as promised when we arrived in Addis Ababa. Without any warning, he sent a different guide to accompany us for the entire trip (with a flimsy excuse).
Several parts of the signed quote weren’t respected:
– Services included in the quote but not provided on-site (meals, water),
– Hotels we’d chosen, booked, and paid for were swapped for lower-category places,
– Visits were canceled because the timing wasn’t calculated properly,
– One stop on the itinerary was dropped without any reason or explanation.
We’d paid a deposit for domestic flights, with a promise to refund any overpayment. A month after returning, 150 € per person (there were three of us) still hasn’t been refunded.
I’m sharing this to warn fellow travelers about the importance of solid guarantees to ensure contracts are actually honored. Double-check everything before committing!
Wishing everyone safe and smooth travel prep—Ethiopia is an incredible country!
---
Hello,
Feedback following a recent trip to Ethiopia, organized with a local guide.
Despite a signed quote, numerous preparatory exchanges over eight months, and phone calls right up until the day of departure, the guide did not fulfill his commitments.
Haile Haftu FANUAILE, manager of the agency www.charmethiopiantours.com with whom we had organized everything, did not meet us as agreed upon our arrival in Addis Ababa; without warning us, he sent another guide in his place to accompany us throughout the trip (with a bogus excuse).
Several points in the signed quote were not honored:
– services included in the quote but not provided on site (meals, water),
– hotels chosen, booked, and paid for, replaced by lower-category establishments,
– visits canceled due to lack of time, which had not been calculated correctly,
– one stop on the itinerary canceled without reason or explanation.
A deposit had been paid for the booking of domestic flights, with a commitment to refund the overpayment.
To date, one month after our return, 150 € per person (there were three of us) has still not been refunded.
This testimony is intended to alert travelers to the importance of solid guarantees for contracts that are actually honored, so that everyone can be extra vigilant before committing.
Good luck with your travel preparations, everyone.
Ethiopia is an extraordinary country!
Hello,
With so many agencies out there, we're feeling a bit lost. Could you please share your experience—like recommending your agency if you were happy with them—and tell us why, and if possible, what budget we should expect? Feel free to send it in a private message :)
We’re just the two of us, and ideally, we’d like to go in a 4x4 alone or with another couple, or in a very small group.
Hi there,
I’ve reached out to a few agencies for a week-long family safari next summer before heading to Zanzibar.
So far, the itinerary looks like this:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 3: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 4: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 5: Drive to Serengeti and safari in Seronera
Day 6: Serengeti and overnight near Lobo
Day 7: Serengeti and overnight in Seronera
Day 8: Flight from Seronera to Zanzibar
On paper, it covers "everything," but maybe there’s a bit too much time lost on the road... Any alternatives?
To simplify (and cut costs), I was thinking:
Day 1: Late arrival at JRO and overnight in Arusha
Day 2: Arusha National Park with a walking safari and meeting the Maasai (?)
Day 3: Drive to Tarangire, park visit, and overnight in Tarangire
Day 4: Full day in Tarangire
Day 5: Tarangire, drive to and overnight in Karatu
Day 6: Ngorongoro and overnight in Ngorongoro
Day 7: Morning in Manyara or Natron and drive to JRO
Day 8: Flight to Zanzibar
Your thoughts and recommendations are welcome...
Thanks
We have the opportunity to spend about ten days somewhere for Christmas, and I’m really tempted by Zanzibar. I’ve been dreaming for a long time about the Spice Island, Stone Town, diving...
Which hotels could you recommend? Not a big "resort"—we’re more into "boutique hotels" or even an Airbnb house. Somewhere quiet (we’re not party animals).
I’m thinking of staying the first few nights in Stone Town and then moving to a beach, preferably one where we can swim regardless of the tides, without ending up in seaweed and mud at low tide.
I’m a bit lost with all the beaches because apparently, the north is very crowded, the south is very windy, and the east has some good and some not-so-good spots, with big tides or not... HELP! 🤪
I’d like to limit myself to a maximum of 2 different places to stay over the 10 days.
I’m reaching out because I don’t understand how Volcanoes National Park works.
I looked at booking for the gorillas, but there’s just the price listed, and the same goes for the Diane Fossey tomb.
So I contacted a hotel in Kinigi, and they told me that for the gorillas, you need a car to get to the park headquarters, and then once you know your group, you need to get from the headquarters to the trekking start point?? Do you confirm this? Is that really how it works? They say the hotel has a driver and it would cost 100 DOLLARS!!
I just found out that on top of the permit, there are other fees??? Uhh…
Are there other options, knowing I don’t want to rent a 4x4 since I’m traveling alone?
And if I don’t get the gorilla permit but just want to visit the Diane Fossey tomb, is it the same issue? From Kinigi, do you need a 4x4? How far is the tomb from the headquarters? Is it a hike you can do alone OR DO YOU NEED A GUIDE, ON FOOT? By car??
If someone could explain everything to me… and is the DF Foundation different??
If I decide to go through an agency, is it possible in Musanze (which would save me trips) or is it mandatory to go through Kigali?
Thanks so much for your help…
Best regards
I’m in the middle of planning a road trip in Southern Africa, and I’m specifically working on the itinerary—especially the distances.
I’ve got the time, but I’m struggling with the transfer days (so much driving just to end up spending the whole day on the road). That’s why I’m trying to analyze travel times, even if it means adding extra stops.
My highlights in Zimbabwe would be:
- Hwange
- Victoria Falls (and maybe Matusadona)
- Mana Pools
- Harare
- Gonarezhou
- Great Zimbabwe
But the distances and travel times seem huge (over 4 hours each time), and I don’t see how to make the drives more chill or shorten them—even if it means adding stops (but which ones?) between each leg.
Would anyone be able to estimate the travel time between these highlights and maybe suggest some nice stops to take breaks?