First draft of our Wales road trip

Hi there, Next July still gives you plenty of time... but we can definitely chat about it now! I wouldn’t claim to know everything, but I can point you toward what matches my favorite topics: natural spaces and small towns far from the crowds. Wales is a real joy for that—it’s quite underrated. In a way, that’s a good thing, since mass tourism is largely absent. Still, don’t forget that big cities are *very* close: Liverpool and Manchester to the north, Cardiff to the south, of course. So there *are* crowds during school holidays, especially starting with the May weekends. And July... well, you get the idea. A few thoughts on your list (it’s quite long for two weeks!): Pembroke, St David’s: beautiful coastline that reminds me a bit of Brittany. Gorgeous abbey... Aberystwyth: I love the "promenade"—delightfully kitsch, so typically British. Brecon Beacons: Are we talking about the national park? Stunning big hills, amazing hikes. Don’t miss Llandeusant and the red kite feeding sites. Also, explore the breathtaking Tywi Forest valley (in September, there was a huge construction site near the little Dinas nature reserve—I’m worried it might seriously damage the valley). Brecon: a charming little town that feels like a French village from the 1960s. Lovely. Cadair Idris: a hill that turns into a real mountain—starts off pretty rugged. Conwy: beautiful. In the area, also check out Llandudno (similar vibe to Aberystwyth) and the Great Ormes. Say hi to the cashmere goats... and don’t miss Beaumaris, its castle, and the priory at the end of the road. Harlech Castle: amazing. The village has steep streets—one of them, I think, recently made it into the Guinness World Records at 37% gradient. The surrounding area has hidden, isolated valleys worth exploring. In that area, make sure to visit Llanberis. Check out its massive abandoned slate mine, left behind in the 1960s and reclaimed by nature. A truly unique spot—Dynorwig, in my opinion, is hauntingly fascinating, with feral goats roaming around. If the weather’s clear, hike up Snowdon from Llanberis (if you’re strong hikers) or take the little train. Llantony Priory: just ruins, but very romantic. Beyond it, a tiny road leads to Hay-on-Wye through stunning views from the Black Mountains. Hay-on-Wye is the bookshop capital—an absolute must-visit. And between the two—the Brecon Beacons and Snowdonia—don’t forget Elan Valley!

Hi Cheechako,

Okay, I don’t understand—I replied to you but I see my response didn’t go through I’ll try again First off, thank you for such a detailed reply—it gave me some great ideas. I’ve added a few things because of it Yeah, we’re planning early on purpose. For Scotland, I booked relatively early and got some really good rates. The closer you get to the date, the more prices go up, especially when traveling with family. Unfortunately, since our kids are in school, we’re stuck traveling during school holidays. We’re thinking of going the first two weeks of July. The list is definitely long, but the goal is to put in as much as possible and then narrow it down. That’s exactly why I’m asking for your help 😉 To find out what those who’ve been there absolutely recommend and what they suggest skipping. We’d love to see as many castles as possible—it’s what the kids love (and us too, actually), along with nature and some offbeat spots. We don’t really want to linger by the seaside, just see a few pretty coastal villages. Our kids are still young, so long hikes are out, but we’re very interested in short, accessible hikes that aren’t too crowded. That’s exactly what you mentioned with the secret valleys—I love that idea!! Now, my main issue is accommodation. It seems really expensive in Wales, even more so than in Scotland. I think we’ll go for B&Bs or private rentals instead of hotels. We don’t want to camp—we like our comfort after long days of exploring.

Hello, Yes, I completely understand your need to lock in the school holiday period. And your wish to book early—requirements that aren’t (anymore...) usual for me...

The phrase "stagnate by the seaside" surprised me... But indeed, the real originality of Wales is more often inland, except perhaps for the seaside resorts that remind me of our own from the 1960s. Barmouth, Aberystwyth, LLandudno, Beaumaris—where you buy kids little nets and buckets to catch a few green crabs at the end of the pier... But also the huge mobile-home parks... less charming!

As for old castles for the kids, well, you’ve found a few. In Llanberis, for example, the old castle is just below the massive Dinorwig quarry. From the museum parking lot (expensive), you have access to several marked trails. But if you go via the top and the old workers' village, you’ll find a direct access well-known to many climbers, with a stunning view of the entire site in less than ten minutes. Behind Harlech, look for the smallest roads on the map—you’ll find some lovely surprises. But be careful: the narrow roads are even narrower than in Scotland, with dry-stone walls and no passing places. Around Llandeusant, every afternoon there’s a feeding of red kites. The site is small, family-friendly, and should appeal to kids. The same thing, but on a larger scale, at Rhayader (Elan Valley) at Gigrin Farm. Up to a hundred red kites show up at the scheduled time (3 PM if it hasn’t changed). Also at Nant Y Aran (about ten kilometers behind Aberystwyth), and this one’s free. Not far from Rhayader, via the A470, a bucolic walk: the Marteg River nature reserve. I’m also thinking of the Dinas reserve, on the road from Llandovery (Brecon Beacons...) toward the Llyn Brianne, with a nice walk along the river. But you’ll find plenty of others....

Hi there,

To add to and nuance Cheechako’s points, there’s still plenty to see and do along the coast, especially in Pembrokeshire: - Some charming little ports (Solva, which can be quite busy, the tiny Porthgain, Aberaeron), - Beautiful walks. Stackpole Nature Reserve is really lovely with its dunes, pretty bays (Barafundle Bay in particular), and water lily ponds (July should be peak blooming season if I’m not mistaken). Nearby, there’s also St Govan’s Chapel and the Elegug Stacks, which are worth the detour (I think you’ve marked them on your map). Further north, the coastline is rocky—Dinas Head or St Davids Head make for nice, short hikes along the sea. I also really enjoy the drive from Strumble Head to the lighthouse; make sure to stop at the pass to climb Garn Fawr for the stunning view. - Tenby—you’re right to add it to your list. It’s the cutest seaside town in Wales, in my opinion. Though you won’t be alone there... - A boat trip to an island to see birds (Skomer or Ramsey Island). Puffins can be spotted on Skomer (best seen in July if they’re still around), and gannets further out on Grassholm. - A few years ago, it was possible to watch sheepdog demonstrations near St David’s—I don’t know if they still do them, but it could be fun with kids. It’s true that the clusters of mobile homes along the coast aren’t the prettiest, but the Welsh have largely avoided massive coastal urbanization (outside of Swansea-Newport).

For quieter coastal spots, there’s also the Llŷn Peninsula further north. I love it—it’s like a smaller version of Pembrokeshire: beaches, cliffs, little ports, and Bardsey Island...

A fun idea with kids: the many heritage railways, whether steam-powered or not—like Aberystwyth to Devil’s Bridge, Porthmadog to Blaenau, or Caernarfon to Porthmadog. There are plenty more!

Among the castles, the most impressive are Conwy (the whole town is fortified), Harlech, and Caernarfon. Beaumaris and Pembroke are also great, though slightly less so. I really like Carreg Cennen—it’s lesser-known and not too busy, in the western part of Brecon Beacons National Park. Tretower Castle or Carew Castle are worth a detour if you’re nearby, but they’re not must-sees. There are *hundreds* of castles in Wales, ruined or intact, so you’ll likely stumble upon quite a few along the way. Your kids might get castle overload... A few other nice ones, but only if you’re passing through: Manorbier, Llawhaden, Cilgerran, Criccieth, Rhuddlan, Denbigh. If you venture inland, I also like Powis Castle—it’s not medieval, but the gardens and Indian curiosities cabinet are really cool.

I’d add Portmeirion to your list—a slightly kitschy garden village, very charming but *very* busy (not sure what it’s like in summer). With kids, I’d also suggest a garden visit, like Bodnant Garden or the National Botanic Garden of Wales.

Inland, since you seem up for exploring, beyond Elan Valley, there are some beautiful, quiet roads—like Bwlch y Groes, Cwm Hirnant, Llyn Efyrnwy (in the same area), or the route between Rhayader and Cwmystwyth. Further north, there’s Rhaeadr Waterfall. Fun fact: in Welsh, *w* is a vowel...

In the Brecon Beacons, I agree with Cheechako—the road between Hay and Llanthony is one of the most beautiful in Wales. Other nice routes include Merthyr Tydfil to Talybont or Ystradfellte to Sennybridge, which are great starting points for short hikes to the Brecon Beacons’ summits. I’d also add a walk to the waterfalls at Ystradfellte. If you’re into industrial heritage, there are the Blaenavon Ironworks in the area (never been myself).

I think that covers it—you’ve got ideas for a month-long trip... For accommodation, you could look into wigwam-style lodges or glamping, but it’s not cheap. Some youth hostels offer family rooms with showers at lower prices. The upside is they’re often in really scenic countryside spots.

Happy planning!

Thanks again, Sylvain. Unfortunately, against all expectations, my husband decided to postpone our trip to Wales (he doesn’t like the economic uncertainty that Brexit is creating for him) and has ultimately set his sights on Germany. So I have to start all my preparations over, but I’ll keep all your tips safe for future years, and I hope this little post will help others plan their Welsh visit 😉

Unfortunately, against all expectations, my husband decided to postpone our trip to Wales

Darn, I’m too late. But hey, here’s a little tip for next time.

I won’t go back over Beaumaris, tragically forgotten in the first post but mentioned several times afterward. I’d just recommend Portmeirion (also mentioned). The site is exceptional, not just because the cult series The Prisoner was filmed there. It’s an Italian-style village, dreamed up by an eccentric architect, and it benefits from a microclimate (the village, not the architect)... You’ll also find tableware known worldwide there.

he doesn’t like the economic uncertainty caused by Brexit

It’s true that predicting the £ exchange rate is tough, but otherwise, French travelers are guaranteed to be able to go there and (most importantly) leave until the end of 2020 with just an ID card.

Even though this post is old, it fully answers my questions! Thanks! !