Backpacking itinerary in Tunisia
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Original post
FA
Hi there,

I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November, backpacker-style (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach, and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, give or take.

First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule so I can book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south this time—I went there years ago and want to stay independent). I’ve sketched out the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few towns without budget-friendly hotels (even on Airbnb), which means I’ll be staying longer where they’re available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (time spent in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout options on booking sites first, then book on the spot for cheaper rates (no site commission + possible negotiation)? Also, are hotels not listed online and found randomly on-site much cheaper?

ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)

TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: A-R Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – pack a picnic + option: hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip) – worth it? Doable alone?

KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, Medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...

SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: A-R El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day A-R Monastir? Worth it? + option: 1 day A-R Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?

OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?)

Thanks for your thoughts and opinions on these options. Once I’ve adjusted the duration, I’ll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)
MA Manondugard Regular ·
Hello,

I'm urgently planning a trip to Tunisia in November as a backpacker (no agency, no guide or taxi, public transport, youth hostels or small hotels, local restaurants). I'm not interested in the beach and I like to take my time at archaeological sites and museums (twice as long as the average visitor). I'm aiming for about two weeks, to be adjusted.

First, I'm trying to roughly outline a route/schedule to book my flight as soon as possible (no desert in the south since I've already been there a long time ago and want to stay independent). I've roughly sketched the following itinerary, knowing that apparently, there are quite a few cities without budget accommodations (even on Airbnb), which makes me stay longer where they are available. Three questions: 1. Does this seem reasonable overall (duration in each city)? 2. Should I add other cities, maybe in the northwest? 3. For hotels, in November, is it better to scout on booking sites first, arrive, and book on the spot for cheaper (no site commission + possible negotiation)? And by the way, are hotels not listed on sites and found randomly on the spot much cheaper?

ROUGH ITINERARY (order to be confirmed)

TUNIS 5 days (cheap accommodations: 13 or 19 €) 2 days: Medina, souks, Bardo Museum, Royal Mausoleum of Tourbet El Bey, Zitouna Mosque (exterior) 1 day: Sidi Bou Said 1 day: Carthage 1 day: Day trip to Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) - bring a picnic + option: Hike to Zaghouan (750m+, 10km round trip): is it worth it? Doable alone?

KAIROUAN 2 days (very expensive room: 40-50 €!) Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque...

SOUSSE 3 days (room 15 €) 2 days: Medina, archaeological museum, Port El Kantaoui, the Ribat (fortress), Contemporary Art Museum Dar Am Taïeb, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) 1 day: Day trip to El Jem (60km away) + option: 1 day trip to Monastir? Is it worth it? + option: 1 day trip to Mahdia (or 2 days sleeping there)?

OPTIONS -> Gabes to mix things up? But is it easy to find cheap lodging and get around/visit alone there? -> Other sights or stops to sleep: Sfax, El Kef, others? -> Kerkenna Islands (easy accommodation?).

Thanks for your comments and opinions on the options. Once I've adjusted the duration, I'll book my tickets for early November! (By the way, do you think I should arrive and depart from two different airports?)

Hi, great idea not to book accommodations in advance except maybe the first two nights to get organized for the rest. (I travel this way on all my trips, and since I’m also planning Tunisia soon, I’ll do the same—it’s a win-win for you and the owner to negotiate on the spot with cash.) For the rest, I’ll trust the other forum regulars who know Tunisia well to answer you, and their info will be precious for me too! 😊
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Yeah, I often adjust as I realize I’ve gone faster (or slower) than planned on certain legs, or even just to follow the weather. But the only thing that bothers me here is that when I check the main accommodation booking sites, places with reasonable rates (10-20 €) seem really rare—or even nonexistent—in most cities! !
MA Manondugard Regular ·
Yeah, I often adjust as I realize I’ve gone faster than planned (or the opposite) for certain legs, or even just to follow the weather. But the only thing that bothers me here is that when I look at the main accommodation booking sites, places with reasonable rates (10-20 €) seem really rare—even nonexistent in most cities!

Try this site where you can find some for 7-10 €: https://www.hostelworld.com/fr/auberges-de-jeunesse/afrique/tunisie/ Or here for Sousse: https://www.hostelworld.com/fr/chambres-hotes/afrique/tunisie/
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi Julien, I’m not sure I can be much help since I don’t really do backpacking trips in Tunisia, but I’ll share a few thoughts about your plans. For convenience, I always use my own vehicle. But some friends are really happy traveling by bus. Between Sousse, Monastir, and Mahdia, you can take the Sahel Metro—it’s reliable and friendly. Personally, I’d steer clear of *louages* (shared taxis)—they scare me—but they’re also a great way to meet locals. Yes, I think a multi-destination trip makes sense. Since you’re arriving in Tunis, you could loop back via Sfax, Djerba, Tozeur, or Monastir. No need to retrace your steps. Transavia and Nouvelair often have good prices, but watch out for extra fees—cabin baggage, seat selection, etc. Last time I flew, Tunisair ended up being cheaper, and as a bonus, they served a decent free meal! It might actually be smarter to arrive in the north to take advantage of the weather, which can worsen as winter sets in, then head south where it’ll be milder. I’m not sure what you mean by "the desert in the south," but if you’re going that way this time of year, my top tip would be Tozeur and the mountain oases—Tamezret, Douiret, the *ksour* (fortified granaries). Have you heard of Chebika, Tamerza, and Midès? They’re really worth visiting in November. You didn’t mention Djerba—it seems like Djerba and/or Tozeur would be more interesting than Gabès, which I don’t find very appealing. But others might disagree. For Tunis, I’d add the Central Market and the modern city. Sidi Bou Saïd and Carthage—definitely. Dougga too. Zaghouan, I’m not sure—I haven’t been there in ages. Kairouan, yes, but maybe just a day if you can get there early and not on a Friday. Sousse—everything except Port El Kantaoui, which I don’t think is a must. It’s a pretty port with gardens, but it’s all hotels, shops, and kid-friendly attractions—meh. Yes to the Dar Am Taïeb Museum—discovered it recently. Check out the leather shop run by the owner’s nephew, at the top of the souks when coming down from the archaeological museum. Make sure to visit the Sousse souk *after* the museum, on your way down to the Great Mosque—not the other way around. El Jem—yes for the amphitheater, but also the small museum and the little restaurant across from it. Monastir—yes for Bourguiba’s mausoleum, the marina, and the ribat. I’d add the old presidential palace—it’s a bit out of the way but really interesting. Mahdia—my hometown! I’d say yes just for the massive marine cemetery, the ribat, and the Punic port. Gabès and Sfax aren’t my favorites, but Kerkennah is nice for a stroll—though I’d still pick Djerba. In November, after school holidays, there won’t be many backpackers, so you can book your stays the day before based on what interests you. Don’t hesitate to ask if you have more specific questions as your plans take shape.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, and thanks for all this info. I think I’ll have more specific questions later, actually.

For now, still trying to figure out the overall duration and which airports to use. 1. Length of stops: - For Tunis: does 5 days still sound good if we include the central market and the modern city (skipping Zaghouan for now)? - For Kairouan: you suggested one day—got it (maybe arrive at noon and leave the next day at noon). - For Sousse: I’m guessing 3 days is still fine, even without Port El Kantaoui? - For Monastir and Mahdia, I’ll plan at least one day each (if that’s enough), but do you have any suggestions on where to stay? Stay in Sousse and use the "métro du désert" for a round-trip day trip? Or stay in one of the two cities (maybe nicer, but what about prices?)? => Total: around 12–14 days, depending on transport and arrival/departure times.

Finally, about the "desert"—yes, I meant Tozeur and the oases, and probably the other places you mentioned. I was thinking of skipping them for three reasons, but let me know if this makes sense: - Twenty years ago, I did a guided tour with 3–4 days in a 4x4 (canyons, granaries, marabouts, dunes, mountain oases, Tataouine—I don’t remember all the names) and then 3 days at an all-inclusive hotel in Djerba. Well, I don’t travel like that anymore... - It seems like you *need* a guide and/or a car, which I’d rather avoid... - With everything else already planned, I’m not sure I’d have time to add something meaningful in two weeks (hence my mention of Gabès, though I’m not convinced).

Have a great evening.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
You could maybe make it shorter—4 days in Tunis—but you mentioned you easily linger in museums, so 5 days seems reasonable if you spend a good amount of time at the Bardo. Also, a full day in Carthage to see the dozen or so scattered sites (the ticket is combined), and half a day in Sidi Bou Said for the charm of this pretty village. Check the opening hours for La Maison du Baron d'Erlanger (the Museum of Musical Instruments), Dar El Annabi, and wander around the village in the late afternoon.

For Kairouan, I’d say one day on-site is enough to avoid expensive hotels.

Sousse: 2 days is plenty, plus a day in El Jem.

Monastir: half a day is enough, but do check the opening hours for the sites, especially the former presidential palace.

If you go to Mahdia, avoid Fridays—it’s market day, and it’s chaos.

For Monastir and Mahdia, I’d say half-days are enough, but in winter, everything often closes early in the evening.

Djerba: no need for a guide or tour operator—you can really get by on your own with taxis.

In Erriadh, besides the synagogue, artists have been painting in the streets for about ten years now, and it’s really nice to get lost in the alleys of this pretty village. I’d say that alone is worth the trip to Djerba.

For Tozeur and the mountain oases, a 4x4 isn’t necessary, but I’m not sure public transport runs smoothly.

The south—Tozeur, Douz, Matmata, and the ksour—is really great this time of year when it’s not too hot.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi, I haven’t looked at flights yet, so the duration might change a bit, but here’s a slightly more detailed version. I ended up adding Tozeur to vary the environments and because there’s an airport (and the Routard guide says the town itself is worth a visit). As for Djerba, I skipped it because I had to make choices and Tozeur seems more "different" from the rest of my trip (and also because I get the impression Djerba requires a car or taxis).

TUNIS Day 1: arrival, and depending on the schedule, visit the medina and/or colonial city Day 2: Zitouna Mosque, Tourbet El Bey Mausoleum, Dar Bach Hamba + medina and/or colonial city Day 5: Carthage (open daily 8:30 AM–5 PM) Day 3: Bardo Museum (closed Mondays) Day 4: Sidi Bou Said in the morning, incl. Dar El Annabi (half-day) & Maison du Baron d'Erlanger (Ennejma Ezzhara) + extra time in Tunis’ souk/medina on the way back Day 6: Round-trip to Dougga (bus to Tebersouk 2h + taxi) – bring a picnic Option: Zaghouan hike (750m+, 10km round-trip) – is it worth it? Doable solo?

SOUSSE (From Tunis: shared taxi 1h30, bus 3h) Day 7: medina, archaeological museum (9 AM–5 PM, closed Mon) Day 8: the Ribat (fortress), Dar Am Taïeb Contemporary Art Museum, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) Day 9: El Jem + museum (60km away: 1h by train, 1h30 by bus, 1h30 by shared taxi, last return at 5 PM) Day 10: Round-trip to Monastir (30 min on the Sahel metro): ribat, mausoleum, mosque, presidential palace if accessible Day 11: Round-trip to Mahdia (1h40 on the Sahel metro): Ottoman fort, marine cemetery, stroll

KAIROUAN (2 hotels at 60 DT in the Routard guide) Day 12: Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque... Day 13: Finish visits and/or bus to Tozeur (5h)

TOZEUR (3 hotels at 40–50 DT according to the Routard guide) (Bus from Kairouan if not on Day 13) Day 14: palm grove, Museum of Traditions Day 15: old quarter; Nefta (25km)? Option: visit something outside the city by taxi or public transport (but what?) Day 16: flight

Thanks everyone for your comments.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Bonus problem: returns from Tozeur don’t run every day, so either: - I do it in 15 days instead of 16, cutting out, say, the day in Monastir - I do it in 17 or 18 days, but then what should I add? Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, I already thought it was a bit of a shame to go to Tozeur without visiting the mountain oases... Make the most of it! It’s often the best day of the trip. If you don’t have a strict return deadline.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there,

My main constraint is the return flights from Tozeur, three days apart...

The *Routard* guide says that Tozeur itself is worth visiting, but it also mentions the three oases. The first two seem doable by *louage*: the one to Tamerza stops at Chebika on the way (last return from Tamerza around 3 PM). So I could plan them for Day 15 in the version without Monastir.

Question 1: If I start with Chebika, does anyone know if you can get to Tamerza afterward by hitchhiking or taxi, or if there are many *louages* passing through in the morning from Tozeur? Question 2: What’s the price for a round-trip taxi to visit all three oases from Tozeur? Is it common to share with other travelers?

If I’m going for 17 days, I still don’t know where to add an extra night since I feel like I’m already spending enough time everywhere... And I have this little uncertainty—I sometimes end up ahead of schedule when I realize I’ve seen all the planned sights at a stop earlier than expected...

Has anyone who’s been to Tozeur tell me if it’s a nice town to wander around aimlessly if I have "extra" days?

Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Tozeur is a really pretty little town with a beautiful palm grove where it's lovely to stroll around. Its brick architecture is very distinctive. However, you can explore it quite quickly. There's the small Archaeological and Traditional Museum in the Ouled El Hadef district, which you shouldn't miss. Souad, the museum's manager, will share her knowledge with a lot of poetry. I'm not sure what's still open at the Dar Cheraiet museum. You can walk to the belvedere, more for the panoramic view than for the slightly dilapidated sculptures (unless everything has been restored since my last visit), and go to the brickworks to see how bricks are made. I don't know if it's still the case, but there used to be two buses a day running between Tozeur and Tamerza, as well as organized excursions by travel agencies and hotels. Tamerza is quite busy, especially since it seems the Tamerza Palace hotel has reopened. In this region, I've even picked up hitchhikers before. To tell you where you might waste a bit of time, let me know how you're getting to Tozeur?
FA Faiyech Regular ·
I'm thinking of heading there from Kairouan (4-5 hours by road, depending on sources, on the bus coming from Tunis).
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
So not via the south, otherwise you could’ve spent a day in Douz. I don’t know if the excursions with the Bey’s train in Metlaoui have resumed? Anyone know?
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi everyone,

It looks like the Lézard rouge has resumed service since last May, as part of the government's effort to revitalize Saharan tourism and remote regions.

Departure from Metlaoui station, easily reachable from Tozeur (or Gafsa) by *louage*, around 10–10:30 AM depending on the day of the week.

Check online for details.

Calaf
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Awesome! Thanks Alain for your reply. The reopening of the Tamerza Palace, the train du bey—all of this is moving in the right direction... So Julien, you can take the train du bey for a little stroll through the gorges of the Oued Selja. And also check out Alain’s older posts for things to do in Tozeur...
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Thanks to Calaf and you. I looked into it, and sure enough, some sites mention it reopening in May 2025. However, there’s no official site anymore. I found phone numbers, opening hours, and days that vary slightly depending on the sources (pre-2025), so I think I’ll have to ask once I’m there to be sure. Just in case, here’s the info for anyone interested or who wants to try: "Information and reservation Tel: + 216 76 241 469 Fax: + 216 76 241 604 Email: lezardrouge@topnet.tn"

Otherwise, I’ll ask again upthread in case Calaf has an idea: "If I start with Chebika (by louage), does anyone know if you can get to Tamerza by hitchhiking or taxi afterward, or if there are many louages passing through in the morning from Tozeur?" I’ll add: for the return from Tamerza, are there louages without any problem if it’s not too late, like after lunch? Thanks.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
I assume the buses still go from Tozeur to Tamerza?
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi there,

Every time I’ve visited the mountain oases—often—I’ve done it in a rental car from Tozeur. I love being completely independent and not relying on anyone or anything... So I don’t want to give out wrong info, but the locals in Tamerza and Mides *do* have to get around—there’s not much up there—so there are buses or *louages*... BUT: how often do they run? I’d say don’t miss them! Your best bet is to ask at the bus station, right in the center of TZ, on the main road toward Nefta.

Have a great trip!

Calaf
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Ah, I think seeing all these excursions, shared taxis, mentions of *louage*, etc., I assumed there weren’t any buses! The SNTRI does list "Tamerghza"... But like in other countries, can you flag down a bus on the road in Tunisia (in Chebika, for example) and buy your ticket from the driver?

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