Hello VF friends!
We’re planning to leave Marrakesh by rental car—this will be our second trip to Morocco. While we want to revisit some places, we also hope to explore new regions. Here’s the start of our itinerary, which could take 2 to 3 weeks. We don’t want to cover too many kilometers each day.
- Depart Marrakech for Essaouira, stopping to visit the Inzerki beehive. We’ll stay 3 nights in Essaouira to explore the city and the surrounding area.
- Head toward Tamanar or that region for another 3 nights, exploring on a star-shaped route. We’d like to see the Paradise Valley and the coast. Not really keen on stopping in Agadir.
We’ve been to Tafraoute before, but I’d love to see some *greniers* (granaries) again, so we’re considering 1 or 2 nights there.
- Tiznit for 2 nights, making our way to Plage Blanche.
- Guelmin and the Tighmert oasis for 2 nights.
- Tata for 2 nights, visiting Akka Iguane and other villages.
After that, we’ll head east.
We’d love to hear about your experiences, great tips, and recommendations!
Here are a few places where we might set our bags down soon...
Essaouira: Le Douar des Oliviers.
Tafraoute: L'Arganier d'Ammeln
Tiznit: Riad Le Lieu
Tighmert Oasis: La Maison de l'Homme Bleu.
Happy holidays and safe travels in Morocco!
Good evening,
from Guelmim you’ll head to Plage Blanche. Not Tiznit.
Also, this round-trip by car isn’t really worth it unless you’re in a 4x4 and plan to drive on the sand and do the Pkage and its 40 km.
Instead, go to Foum Assaka, at Rayon Vert, at Rachid’s—you can sleep and eat there, with excellent fish.
In Tiznit, there are a few nice places to stay, like the riad Le Lieu, right near Place El Mechouar where you can park your car.
The riad El Janoub (you can park your car in front of the riad).
You can eat at both places. Breakfast is great at Janoub.
You can grab a drink (alcohol) at the bar of Hôtel Tiznit at the roundabout.
Tourists love the restaurant "À l’Ombre du Figuier" in the old medina. For me, it’s just okay, but the place is nice and the Moroccan owners are too.
Go to Ferme Turtite just outside the ramparts. I really enjoyed the lamb or goat tagine.
You’ll eat very well at the restaurant on the first floor of Hôtel Tiznit, and they serve wine there.
In Guelmim, you know you have to go to the big Saturday morning souk.
Stroll around this city starting at 5 PM. It's far from being the most beautiful city in Morocco, but it's a place where you feel good, and you'll be the only travelers! You'll really get to know the real Morocco and see the difference with Essaouira, which is very touristy, or even Tafraout. It's bustling with people.
Have a glass of sugar cane-ginger-lemon juice in front of the mosque on the Square.
Do your little shopping on Oued Street.
Have lunch at Abwal de Rome, 33, or Balina. Or eat roast chicken at Bir Anzaean Square.
The Maison de l'Homme Bleu, which Jeeaan recommends, is a must-visit. Ibrahim, the owner, is absolutely charming and interesting. Both the lodging and the food are remarkable for the price. I rarely leave comments on Facebook, but I left one.
From Tighmert, go to the Fask spring. Sure, it's a dirt road, but it's passable by car. Ask around to reach this "source" of 40°C sulfur hot water.
You can dip in your swimsuit into the rustic hole.
Why not make a stop in Agadir?
Have you been before?
Not at all—I just have this image of charter flights, tourists in buses, and everything that goes with it. Scams and pressure. So I’m planning to keep going, but I’m always open to revising my preconceptions! I feel the same way about the desert.
Thanks, I’ll take note of your suggestions and skip Plage Blanche.
We’ll be staying in Marrakech for 2 nights—we arrive late in the evening and leave the morning after next, which really only gives us one full day.
To be honest, when I read some posts, I get the impression that the desert, especially Merzouga, is really over-touristed. I’m open to being convinced about Agadir, though. Our way of traveling lets us go at our own pace. I’m jotting down everything that might interest us along the way, even though I know we won’t see it all. We’ve planned 2 to 3 weeks to reach Tata, sticking to the coast. No interest in a tiring road trip—we’re not exactly spring chickens anymore! And then there’s the weather; we have to take that into account, especially this winter.
Thanks for all your great tips—I’m noting them down carefully. Tell me everything worth checking out in Agadir itself, because of course I’ve seen that the surrounding areas are full of gems.
Anne
Thanks Jeeaan, I’m drawing inspiration from your travel journal. Back in 2014, we stayed 3 nights in Ijoukak and really loved the place. I’m also reading your posts on the topic and learning from your experiences.
Hi there, you absolutely must see Agadir Bay from the top of the Kasbah Oufella. You can choose your mode of transport: on foot, by bus, or by cable car. If you're driving, you’ll need to leave your car behind and finish on foot.
El Had Souk is closed on Mondays.
A walk along the corniche in the late afternoon is really nice.
It’s lively—lots of people, kids, street vendors, and restaurants (though I don’t know those ones).
Before Tiznit, take a detour to the Massa region and Sidi Wassay by the ocean. It’s a beautiful, lush area along the river.
There are wildlife parks if you're interested.
From Tiznit, you can take the coast road or the expressway to Guelmim.
Along the coast, there are stops worth making: Mirleft, Sidi Ifni.
I can give you some accommodation names if you’d like.
Thanks in advance for the great tips. In Essaouira, among other places, and maybe one night in Agadir since if we walk along the corniche in the late afternoon, we won’t want to drive at night. I saw Souss Massa for a beautiful wildlife excursion—is that the place you’re talking about?
All your addresses interest me; we’ll have the *Guide du Routard*, but private recommendations are even better. It’s awesome how much time you’re giving me—I hope others follow this post.
Essaouira:
The Hôtel des Îles. Easy to access and well located.
The riads in the old town are quite expensive.
Don’t miss going to Taros for a drink on the 3rd floor to watch the sunset, and have dinner there too. There might be a live music group.
For a night in Agadir without a car and wanting to stroll along the corniche?
You should stay in the tourist district on Boulevard du 20 Août, where hotels (some with clubs or all-inclusive options) are plentiful. You’ll have plenty of choices. The Kenzi Europa, for example, is a good mid-range option and has been renovated.
In Mirleft (actually 4 km before), the Aftas Trip hotel is really nice.
Lots of restaurants: Zan Zan Café, but not just that.
In Sidi Ifni, you’ll find a riad run by a friendly French guy (Patrick, I think) called Xanadu, right in the old medina (but you can park in front). This riad might appeal to you.
There’s also the Hôtel Bellevue with a bar, so you can enjoy an apéritif, and the restaurant has a great view.
Both accommodations are very reasonably priced.
Thanks! For Essaouira and Agadir, it’s out of budget, but I think I’ll find something given the time I’m aiming for. I’m noting all your info, and our journey is more or less on track at least until Tighmert. It’ll take us a good 15 days to get there. Wishing you happy holidays!
Anne
Hi Marie,
We’re now in your favorite region. We’re staying at Riad Le Lieu in Tiznit. I’ve got a little scheduling issue and I’m reaching out to tap into your experience of the area. Today’s Wednesday, so we’re not far from Guelmim to check out the souk. We could head to Aglou tomorrow and go back to Guelmim on Friday, which would mean staying here for 2 nights. But I’m wondering if it might be smarter to do the coast starting from Aglou, heading down to Foum Assaka, and arriving near Guelmim or Tighmert by the end of next week.
After Tighmert, we’ll be leaving the coast for good.
Thanks for taking a look at this little stretch of the trip and giving me your advice
We’re planning a trip to Egypt from January 21 to 28, 2027.
J21 – Arrival in Cairo at 6 PM
V22 – Visit the Pyramids
S23 – Early flight to Aswan, visit Aswan
D24 – Visit Aswan, depart mid-afternoon for Abu Simbel
L25 – Morning visit to Abu Simbel, return to Aswan. Is it possible to go all the way to Luxor the same day? Private driver between Aswan and Luxor
M26 – Visit Luxor
M27 – Visit Luxor
J28 – Early flight to Cairo, arrive around 9–10 AM, head back into the city to see 1 or 2 museums (probably just 1 due to time), then flight to Lyon at 7 PM
Does this itinerary seem realistic to you? Does it cover the highlights?
During our trip to Egypt at the end of January, beginning of February, we plan to visit the White Desert and nearby oases for 3 to 4 days, starting from Cairo.
If my initial agency searches weren't conclusive, I now have a "too many options" situation.
Here’s an alphabetical list of my first findings.
If you’ve had any experience (good or bad) with any of these agencies in the White Desert:
Hello, my husband and I will be in Egypt this coming November. Cairo seems more challenging to explore without a guide, and we’ll be there for 3 full days. Would anyone have the name of a guide?
Thanks!
Hi
It's hard to tell from Maps or anything else whether the road along the Tessaout is fully paved from Amezri all the way to the junction with the road connecting Demnate to Ouarzazate (RN23).
Thanks for your replies!
Herviche
Here’s a first draft for a 14-night itinerary during the Christmas break with two teens. We’re especially fond of hiking (nothing too extreme, though), which is why we’re drawn to the south.
- Marrakech (2 nights)
- Aït Ben Haddou (1 night)
- Dadès (3 nights, though we’re thinking of doing a day trip to the Todra Gorge on one of those days)
- M'hamid (1 night)
- Erg Chigaga (1 night)
- 4 nights to slot in
- Marrakech (2 nights)
Okay, I realize this involves a lot of driving, and we’re still debating the return route since we’d like to avoid the Tichka Pass in January, but going through Taroudant seems like it would add *a lot* of time. 😕
If you’ve got other suggestions for an itinerary with great hikes, I’m all ears!
Also, the 4 nights total in MRK isn’t really our preference, but since we’re arriving/departing super early from overseas, we’d like to be a bit rested before the long flight.
Another question:
For hikes (aside from the desert one), is it better to have a guide with us, or are the trails well-marked?
Hi there!
I’m heading to Dakhla at the end of October for about two weeks as a backpacker.
Without renting a car or booking pricey excursions, what are the best ways to get around and explore?
I’ve heard that the small taxis only cover limited routes outside the city center, and the local buses might be tricky...
Thanks to anyone who knows the area and can share their tips for nature and culture in this up-and-coming destination!
Laurence
Hi, I’m planning a 10-day trip to Morocco starting on 12/30 with my parents, and I’d love your thoughts on the itinerary. Since I’m traveling with my parents, who are 78, I’m trying to keep train rides between cities short. I’d like to start with 4 days in FES (with Meknès nearby), then head to Casablanca for 2 days, and finish with 4 days in Marrakech, including a day trip or overnight stay in Essaouira. Thanks for your input!
During our road trip in Morocco in November/December, we’re planning to spend a night at the Hassilabied dunes around November 10th.
We don’t want to sleep in a camp, go on a camel trek, or do a 4x4 tour—we just want to stay right at the foot of the dunes so we can walk around on our own, on foot, at sunrise and sunset. It seems like Hassilabied is better located for this (closer to the dunes) than Merzouga.
Do you know of any clean accommodation with hot water, not too rustic but not too "bling-bling" either, and—most importantly—ideally located right in front of the dunes?
Thanks so much for your tips!
Fran
Hi, we're looking for a guide to show us around Essaouira.
We're 11 adults and don't want to go through an agency. If you have a contact to help us discover this city, that would be great!
Thanks
We're heading to Egypt in a few days, inspired by many of your travel journals (thanks especially to Franck!).
We’ll spend a short day exploring Cairo before an evening departure, with our luggage in tow. We’re traveling light, but it’s still not very practical...
Does anyone know if baggage storage/lockers are easy to find, and if so, do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!
I’m currently planning several trips to Morocco (Marrakech, Draa Valley, Merzouga) and I’m wondering about the reliability of data connections outside major urban centers.
Here’s what I’ve observed on the ground so far:
- In cities (Marrakech, Agadir, Fez), 4G is excellent, including in the medina riads.
- On the Tizi n'Tichka road and toward Ouarzazate, coverage remains decent, with a few dead spots here and there.
- In Saharan areas (Merzouga, Chegaga), the connection becomes patchy: some camps get great reception, others none at all.
My specific questions:
1) On your recent trips, which operator (Maroc Telecom, inwi, Orange) gave you the best coverage in the Atlas and Sahara?
2) Have international eSIMs seemed as reliable as a local Moroccan SIM, or have you noticed a difference in speed in rural areas?
3) While trekking or driving a 4x4 in the desert, have you come across completely dead zones despite theoretical coverage?
I’m happy to share my own coverage notes if it helps, and I’ll gladly answer any questions about Morocco—I know it well.
I'm looking for a travel companion for a road trip in southern Morocco at the end of March 2027.
Duration: 15 days.
Departure from Marrakech.
Car rental and Airbnb accommodation.
Budget: 1200 €.
Itinerary to plan together
I’m heading back to Egypt for the first time in 30 years this July. Last time, I was 20, and we spent two weeks traveling on a shoestring as backpackers.
I’m wondering about a "cruise" on a felucca from Aswan—mainly to avoid being stuck in an air-conditioned tourist bubble (we’re already spending our first week in that setting with our diving club). We’d like to explore the most interesting stretch of the Nile between Aswan and Luxor. Do you have any thoughts on this option, tips, or maybe some contacts?
I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili?
If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them.
I didn’t find any info on the forum.
Best,
Hi everyone,
Our trip to Morocco will be from November 3 to 17, in the High Atlas.
Basically, our route would be:
Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou
Skoura - Tinghir - Merzouga
Merzouga via the N12 to Zagora
Zagora - Draa Valley - Marrakech
It seems to be the low season, so I’d love to travel without having to book accommodations in advance. In other countries, pre-booking has restricted us and kept us from visiting unplanned sites. Freedom is important to us, but I’d also like to avoid arriving somewhere and finding nothing available.
What do you recommend? Book ahead or not?
Your advice is always helpful, and thanks to anyone who can shed some light on this for me.
Roberto
First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.
Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.
Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.
He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).
I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.
Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.
1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.
(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)
2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.
That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!
I’m just a few days away from my trip to Marrakech—I’m leaving from November 13th to 20th and bringing my parents along! I’d love to plan my stay as best as I can, and I’m sure the forum crew can help. So, here are my questions:
- Where’s the best place to exchange money without getting ripped off? The owner of the riad where we’re staying told us to avoid doing it at the airport because it’s really expensive and to do it in the medina instead, near Jemaa el-Fna square.
- Which traditional hammams do you recommend that are reasonably priced? How much should we budget for one? That’ll help me plan my expenses.
- What are some nice restaurants in the medina?
- I’d also like to know roughly how much to expect for a tea, a meal, a taxi, a djellaba, and babouches. I don’t want to get overcharged and would like to know what to expect.
- What are the must-do activities and places to visit?
Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!
We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April.
What do you think of this rate?
This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.
Hi there,
We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake?
Thanks,
Christian
Hi there,
We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February.
We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.
-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available?
-Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)?
-Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?
With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!
- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?)
- What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!)
- In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid?
- Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country?
- A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?
I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you:
- Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why?
- Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies.
- Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car?
- Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.
Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years.
Have a great evening,
Roberto
hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend?
Cheers,
Laurent.
We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips!
Annie
