Backpacking itinerary in Tunisia
FR

Translated into English.

FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, Here’s the latest version of my independent 15-day itinerary (it’s a bit tight since I added Zaghouan for variety, but I’ll drop Monastir if needed). Any comments, warnings, clarifications, or suggestions are welcome!

TUNIS Sat 1: arrival around 1 PM, visit the medina and/or colonial city Sun 2: Carthage (open daily 8:30 AM–5 PM) Mon 3: Zitouna Mosque, Tourbet El Bey Mausoleum, Dar Bach Hamba + medina and/or colonial city Tue 4: Bardo Museum all day Wed 5: Round-trip to Dougga (2-hour bus to Tebersouk + taxi) – pack a picnic Thu 6: Hike in Zaghouan (4–5 hours round-trip), check bus schedule to Zaghouan (Bab Alioua) Fri 7: Sidi Bou Said, including Maison du Baron d’Erlanger (Ennejma Ezzhara) & Dar El Annabi (Train at 5:20 PM or bus at 4 PM to Sousse.)

SOUSSE Sat 8: medina, archaeological museum (9 AM–5 PM, closed Mon) Sun 9: The Ribat (fortress), Dar Am Taïeb Contemporary Art Museum, Dar Essid (17th-century traditional house) Mon 10: Mahdia (1h40 min by Métro du Sahel): Ottoman fort, marine cemetery, wander around Tue 11: Round-trip to Monastir (30 min by Métro du Sahel): ribat, Bourguiba Mausoleum, mosque, presidential palace if accessible Wed 12: El Jem + museum (60 km away: 1h30 by bus or louage, last return at 5 PM)

(Bus to Kairouan, 1 hour)

KAIROUAN Thu 13: Great Mosque, medina, Three Doors Mosque, medieval cemetery, Sidi Sahbi Mosque... Fri 14: Finish visits and/or bus to Tozeur at 2 PM or 4 PM (4–5 hours)

TOZEUR Sat 15: Chebika oasis by louage (confirm return, with the same driver or by flagging a regular bus?), then medina Sun 16: Little train from Metlaoui at 10 AM or 10:30 AM, then return: palm grove, Museum of Traditions Mon 17: Morning flight.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there, This schedule’s pretty packed, but I think it’s worth it for the variety. On Day 3, to get to Zitouna Mosque, you’ll walk through part of the souks. I’m not sure which city to drop—Monastir or Mahdia—what do you all think? For Chebika, we’d need to plan ahead so we can also make it to Tamerza. Have a great trip! !
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Julien,

Did you end up making your trip to Tunisia?

I’m thinking of going for two weeks in February and I’d really like to know if it’s not too complicated to get around by public transport?

Thanks in advance.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi there, Yes, I’ve done it, and no, it’s not difficult. I’d suggest taking advantage of being near bus stations (like when you arrive!) to check the schedules for your next leg. My hotels weren’t always well-informed, and not all companies have websites. And of course, if buses are scarce, there are always *louages* (get there early to wait less).

The only slightly tricky spot was Tozeur: to visit the mountain oases without spending the night (because in that case, there’s a bus that returns to Tozeur in the morning, I think), you *must* take a *louage*, and there’s only one per day that leaves around 7 AM and returns around 11 AM–12 PM. Plus, it doesn’t go to Midès (but mine took me there alone with an extra 20 dinars, including a one-hour wait). So it’s impossible to do all three visits in one day by *louage*. That said, the tourist office, like other locals, told me hitchhiking on this road was doable. Note that you can also walk in the canyon between Midès and Tamerza. So between *louage*, walking, and hitchhiking, you should be able to do everything in a day. For my part, I passed through Tamerza but didn’t visit it.

Finally, the little "Lézard rouge" train wasn’t running due to a transfer of operations from one company to another.

Happy travels!
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi there! So how was your trip? You’re not telling us— What was your itinerary? Which stops did you make? Your highlights, your disappointments?
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks Julien for all these details—it reassures me about getting around.

But for a woman traveling alone, I’m not sure if hitchhiking is safe.
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Hi Mraissa,

I followed the exact route I posted earlier, with one change to the schedule: I had planned an extra day in Tunis (my whole itinerary was actually quite flexible), so I ended up with an extra day in Tozeur, which was really too much, especially since the Metlaoui train is closed due to a change in operator.

My absolute favorite was probably the medina of Kairouan (and I loved the mosque in the same city, Dougga, the tip of Mahdia with a stunning stormy sky, the Bardo Museum, Sidi Bou Said, Chebika, and the hike in Zaghouan was really refreshing).

As for disappointments, Monastir (let’s just say the fortress is nice, but that’s about it—I even went to Sayada to fill the day), and Carthage wasn’t very interesting either (I think you can stick to the area around the museum (closed) and its view, plus the Antonine Baths, all in half a day)...
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi! Since you mentioned it took you twice as long as other visitors, I thought your itinerary was reasonable.

Aside from the Métlaoui train, were you able to do all the planned visits? Even if the train isn’t running, you can still walk around the western Selja gorges on foot.

In Tozeur, did you go to the small Souad museum? Is Dar Cheraiet open?

In Monastir, did you visit the Bourguiba Museum in the former presidential palace? The ribat, the mausoleum, the museum, the waterfront, the marina—did you also find time to go to Sayada?

Sayada isn’t very interesting except for the weekend market...
FA Faiyech Regular ·
Yeah, but that’s normal—there’s bound to be a bit of adjustment over such a long trip. But I can confirm I took my time with the visits, whether it was museums, archaeological sites, or even wandering around the medinas on a whim (both day and night to catch the lighting effects). Otherwise, yes, I did all the visits listed in my program, plus a few extras (I had the *Routard* guide).

For Tozeur, I had no idea about the gorges without the little train... I skipped the small medina museum (though I visited the medina itself twice), but I went to Dar Cheraiet (there are now only two sections, so two ticket options—the one the *Routard* says is better for kids isn’t available anymore). I also went to the palm museum in the palm grove (I forgot its name) and, to wrap up the day, the belvedere with the giant molded faces on the promontory. It’s a tourist nightmare: hordes of ATVs zigzagging between visitors and camels, (local) tourists shouting, buses honking—almost a caricature of the worst tourism can offer. In a way, it’s interesting to see from the belvedere, but the most surprising part is that all the chaos dies down (a bit) BEFORE sunset, so you can actually watch it from above without too much disturbance. For my part, I was chatting with a friendly old camel driver who organizes bivouac excursions in the desert, so I actually have good memories of the whole thing and went back twice!

For Monastir, I left Sousse early in the morning. I didn’t go to the presidential palace, but I don’t remember why (did I completely forget about it, wasn’t it in the guide, or was it too far?). On the other hand, I did visit the mausoleum, then the cemetery, then the marina (and its pile of out-of-service boats in a corner—so strange!), then the tip of the peninsula behind the marina, with its former tennis courts (on a wind-swept plot!), and the ribat for sunset. As for Sayada, I went there after lunch when I wasn’t sure what else to visit. After passing an uninteresting (and closed) site listed in the *Routard*, I lucked out by continuing randomly toward the coast and following it to the fishing port, which was pretty nice with its colorful boats. They even took some photos of me (I looped around by arriving at one station and leaving from another).
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi Michèle,

I see you know Tunisia well. I’m heading there in mid-February for 14 full days, and I think I’ll stick to the northern half of the country. It’s my first trip there.

I’ll be getting around by public transport (train and bus).

Do you know Le Kef? Is it worth including in a short trip at this time of year (weather-wise)?

Thanks in advance.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi Marie, If this is your first trip to Tunisia, I’d say it’s a shame you’ve chosen the northern part in February. Generally, at this time of year in the north, it can be quite cold, damp, and windy. This is actually the perfect time to head toward Tozeur, Douz, and the mountain oases—maybe even Djerba. The south will be much milder. It’s been a long time since I’ve been to Le Kef, but it’s a pleasant destination, though not absolutely exceptional—it really depends on the route you’re taking. I’m not sure it’s worth the time and cost... It’s likely to be quite cold there, and most budget hotels don’t have heating, so personally, I’d avoid it. It all depends on your tastes and what you’re looking for. Have you booked your flight tickets yet? Which airport are you arriving at? If I may suggest—and if you’re not attached to a particular region—consider changing your plans, land in Tozeur or Djerba, and do a multi-destination trip so you don’t have to backtrack to your arrival airport. We can chat about it.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks for your reply.

I’m gonna book the ticket today. I was planning to arrive and leave from Tunis, but I might take your advice because I know bad weather can really ruin the trip. Cold isn’t too much of an issue in big cities where there’s plenty to do indoors, but otherwise, it’s a problem.

Otherwise, I’m not specifically looking for "backpacker" accommodations.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
... big cities where there’s plenty to do indoors ... Yes, if like in our cities, museums, shops, and other places are heated. In Tunisia, not everyone has central heating—far from it—and it’s actually indoors where it can get cold, like hotel bathrooms or even bedrooms and inside houses. We’re used to dressing warmly when we go outside, so it’s not too much of a problem. Personally, at this time of year, I’d recommend flying into Tozeur and returning from Djerba—but maybe not enough to fill 15 days, unless you’re quick with your visits, in which case you could return via Monastir. On Transavia or Nouvelair, you don’t need to buy the tickets together. But watch out for prices—it’ll be the French school holidays. Don’t forget it’ll be Ramadan, so many places where cafés and restaurants will be closed at lunchtime and often in the evening too. But everywhere, you’ll need to plan to cover up. Since Fayech’s original post was "backpacker itinerary in Tunisia," I’ve kept that in mind...
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
I finally booked a ticket with arrival and departure from Tunis. In winter, there are few direct flights from Nice to Tunisia, so I’ll reserve the first few nights in Tunis and then decide based on the weather.

For sightseeing, I like to take my time, and I usually stay at least three nights in one place. I’m not going to try to see all of Tunisia in 14 days!

I didn’t realize it was Ramadan—this will be my first time visiting a Muslim country during Ramadan. I hope everything won’t be closed.

By the way, someone mentioned Tabarka—what do you think of it?

I posted my question in this thread because, like Faiyech who started it, I also travel by public transport and I’m going for roughly the same length of time as them.

Anyway, thanks so much for taking the time to reply, and if I have any other questions, I’ll start a new thread.
CA Calaf Regular ·
Hi there,

I’ve stayed at the Tiba Hotel in Tunis before—it’s right in the city center, just 5 minutes from the Medina and 50 meters from Avenue Bourghiba. The price is really reasonable, even if the rooms are a bit small.

Address: Rue Ali Bach Hamba, Tunis, Tunisia Phone: +216 71 240 322

It’s a great spot for a few nights.

Have a great trip!
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks Alain for this address!

Either way, I’ll post a review when I get back.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Hi, Tabarka is a really beautiful destination in the summer since it's in the north, so it's a bit cooler than the other coastal spots. This time of year might be a little chilly. Going via Ghar el Melh, Raf Raf, Bizerte, Cap Serrat, and Sidi Mechrig lets you explore the rugged northern coastline. Inland, it's a slightly mountainous region with vast fields. You should check out Sejnane for the pottery made by local women—it's now famous beyond Tunisia’s borders. Aïn Draham, Jendouba, Le Kef, Kesra, and Makthar are villages and towns worth discovering. Dougga is definitely the most stunning archaeological site to visit in Tunisia. Even during Ramadan, you can always find a small grocery store to buy bread and a can of tuna or *La Vache qui Rit*. Just be mindful of the schedules around *iftar* (the breaking of the fast), as public transport and life in general come to a halt. And often, it doesn’t start back up again. Many shop owners take advantage of this period to close and do renovations. Plan your stops carefully—there aren’t many hotels or transport options in this region.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Hi there,

Thanks for all this info, especially about Ramadan and transport!

I’m guessing it also affects the opening hours of museums and other tourist sites? Given the timing, maybe it’s best if I stick to more touristy areas.

For now, the places I’d like to see include the Bardo in Tunis, Dougga, Kairouan (and maybe head to Sbeitla from there?). Everyone’s also raving about Sidi Bou Said, but I hear the visit is pretty quick.

I never plan a precise route, but based on what you’re saying, it might be better to do so this time.

Thanks again for all the details.
MR Mraissa Veteran ·
Of course, Sidi Bou Saïd—you’ll want to see the Baron d'Erlanger’s house, and if you’ve got time, Dar El Annabi. Wander around the port and the heights, then grab a tea at Café des Nattes—it’s the perfect spot to hang out...

Not so quick, either—you can easily spend 2 or 3 hours at the Baron’s house or the Ennejma Ezzahra palace.

Getting there is super easy with the TGM (Tunis-Goulette-Marsa train).

If you’ve got a little extra time, take a stroll to La Marsa and check out the French ambassador’s residence, Dar Kamila. Lovely spot!

In Tunis, don’t miss the souks, the modern city, and the weekly market...

The Bardo, Kairouan, and Dougga are must-sees, of course.

I think a lot of restaurants close during the day for Ramadan and only a few reopen in the evening. Some use this time to do renovations.

Definitely plan ahead and double-check that your plans can go ahead during this period and what the hours are.

Be extra careful with transport schedules, too.
SI Sinforosa Veteran ·
Thanks so much, Michèle, for all this extra info!

I’ll "get to work" on the planning, and if I have any more questions, I’ll come back to you.

Anyway, I think going to Tunisia during Ramadan could be a really interesting experience—it’s a chance to discover the country in a different way.

While searching online, I saw that in 2025 there’ll be light displays in Tunis during Ramadan (Medina of Lights), but I haven’t found anything for this year. In Kairouan, during the second half of Ramadan, there’s the Festival of Sacred Music, but I won’t be there anymore.

Thanks again for all your tips!

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