pres a vous repondre
Donnes conseils sur Madagascar
by Jipi
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
j ai fait une quinzaine de voyage a mada depuis 12 ans le dernier entre nov 02 & janv 03 j ai circule un peu partout et j ai qqes bon plan dans plusieurs (hors Nosy Be destination tour operator) secteurs de l ile
pres a vous repondre
pres a vous repondre
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
Je prend l'avion pour Madagascar demain après-midi !
Je vais y rester 1 mois.
Je n'ai pas eu le temps de préparer mon voyage et je n'ai pour le moment que mon billet d'avion en poche. Je prévois de commencer par la cote Est, j'adore les forêts tropicale ou équatoriale, les climats humides ne me dérangent pas trop.
Je ferai surement un peu de plongé à Sainte Marie. Ensuite je voudrais faire des randonnée en forêts.
As tu plans à me recomander ? J'hésite un peu sur ce que je prend. La tente et le duvet m'obligeraient à avoir un gros sac. Par ailleur comme je voudrais pouvoir me baigner et faire un peu d'apnée sur la cote j'envisage de prendre mes palmes, mais là-aussi galère question volume.
Pour info j'ai une bonne pratique des voyages en Afrique Occidentale.
Merci d'avance pour tes conseils.
Gilles.
As tu plans à me recomander ? J'hésite un peu sur ce que je prend. La tente et le duvet m'obligeraient à avoir un gros sac. Par ailleur comme je voudrais pouvoir me baigner et faire un peu d'apnée sur la cote j'envisage de prendre mes palmes, mais là-aussi galère question volume.
Pour info j'ai une bonne pratique des voyages en Afrique Occidentale.
Merci d'avance pour tes conseils.
Gilles.
salut marie
en 1 mois pas de pbs mais il faut restreindre son voyage a deux regions max
au debut faire la classique descente sur tulear en 10 ou 12 jours ou plus 3 semaines si train de manakara la descente antsirabe regioun de fianarantsoa avec reserve de ranmafana en revenent par la route de mankara ou tu seras descendu par le train 🙂
ambalavao avec papier antemoro et vignes ranohira trek dans l isalo puis tulear avec peut etre un peti stop a ilakaka pays de l emauraude 😊 repos a tulear aller a ifaty au nord ou anakao au sud pas de plage a tulea😕
puis retour a tana et possibilite d aller a ste marie(meteo incertaine) ou morodava ou majunga (leplus facile en taxi brousse) pour la mer et qqes visites
et surtout mora mora (doucement*2) il faut prendre son temps a mada sinon le charme est rompu
salut jipi
en 1 mois pas de pbs mais il faut restreindre son voyage a deux regions max
au debut faire la classique descente sur tulear en 10 ou 12 jours ou plus 3 semaines si train de manakara la descente antsirabe regioun de fianarantsoa avec reserve de ranmafana en revenent par la route de mankara ou tu seras descendu par le train 🙂
ambalavao avec papier antemoro et vignes ranohira trek dans l isalo puis tulear avec peut etre un peti stop a ilakaka pays de l emauraude 😊 repos a tulear aller a ifaty au nord ou anakao au sud pas de plage a tulea😕
puis retour a tana et possibilite d aller a ste marie(meteo incertaine) ou morodava ou majunga (leplus facile en taxi brousse) pour la mer et qqes visites
et surtout mora mora (doucement*2) il faut prendre son temps a mada sinon le charme est rompu
salut jipi
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
salut marie
j ai fait les tsingy 3 fois(97, 99, 00) c est possible
aller de morondava au fleuve tsiribina par taxi brouse bache(prendre centre ville de morondava) direction belo/tsiribina
traverser le fleuve avec une des pirogue a passager
coucher eventuellement a belo a l hotel menabe tenu par une famille d origine grecque
puis prendre un 4*4 avec un indien(karana) tres cher😠 mettre au point aller retour en principe pas pb
prevoir au moins 3jours sur place pour faire les grandes tsingy (j ai lu un post que ce n etait plus possible en ce moment)
retour pareil
mais vous pouvez prendre contact avec jean le rasta 😉a l hotel oasis qui peut vous faire tout cela a un prix equivalent au depart de morondava
les autres operateurs hors de prix 😠
visite possible en tte securite de mi juin a mi nov (a cause de l autre riviere mananbolo a cote des tsingy a bekopaka
salut a bientot😛
j ai fait les tsingy 3 fois(97, 99, 00) c est possible
aller de morondava au fleuve tsiribina par taxi brouse bache(prendre centre ville de morondava) direction belo/tsiribina
traverser le fleuve avec une des pirogue a passager
coucher eventuellement a belo a l hotel menabe tenu par une famille d origine grecque
puis prendre un 4*4 avec un indien(karana) tres cher😠 mettre au point aller retour en principe pas pb
prevoir au moins 3jours sur place pour faire les grandes tsingy (j ai lu un post que ce n etait plus possible en ce moment)
retour pareil
mais vous pouvez prendre contact avec jean le rasta 😉a l hotel oasis qui peut vous faire tout cela a un prix equivalent au depart de morondava
les autres operateurs hors de prix 😠
visite possible en tte securite de mi juin a mi nov (a cause de l autre riviere mananbolo a cote des tsingy a bekopaka
salut a bientot😛
jipi le zanatany
le voyage permet de garder l esprit ouvert aux autres
salut je suis étudiante et je prépare un voyage humanitaire à madagascar en mars il durera trois mois malheuresement nous ne pouvons pas être loge dans la structure qui va nous accueillir nous cherchons des contatcs faites nous les partager que ce soit pour le logement ou même des infos sur la région de tuléar et les trucs à voir merci d'avance😏
emilie beuzeboq
Bonjour Jipi,
Je fais appel à ta grande expérience du pays pour avoir tes conseils. Voilà, on part 3 semaines 1/2 en septembre avec ma copine. J'ai déjà eu des echos de copains qui y sont déjà allé et je suis submergé par la descriptions de beaux paysages... je suis donc plongé dans le lonely pour faire notre itinéraire. Et justement, c'est exactement celui que tu as conseillé, à savoir : je voudrais faire Tana-Ambositra directement et 2j sur place dans les villages alentours, puis direction Fiananrantsoa pour ensuite prendre le train pour manakara, remonter par le parc de Ranomafana, descendre sur Ambalavao et le parc de l'andringitra (y passer 2/3j), puis descendre directement sur Tuléar (mais je pense que c'est pas possible car trop long). Je n'ai pas envie de faire le parc de l'Isalo et il me semble qu'il n'y a pas d'intérêt à s'arrêter dans les villes intermédiaires. Je pense passé 2j vers Ifaty ou saint augustin et prendre l'avion pour Tana car ma dernière semaine sera réservée à du farniente sur Sainte Marie! Ouf!
En fait, j'ai pas trop envie d'aller dans les grandes villes Antsirabe, Fiananratsoa, les villes des mines de saphir...
Mais questions sont maintenant les suivantes: Ne trouves-tu pas que c'est beaucoup en peu de temps (16j pour jusqu'au départ tuléar-tana), connaissant le dicton mora-mora et les difficultés pour circuler, retards...
Mais surtout, ma plus grande crainte (certainement celle du novice) est de trouver des moyens de transports, sachant que le parcours est un peu alambiqué, de ne pas passer mon temps à chercher un moyen de transport... j'avoue que je visualise pas trop la chose, n'étant peut être pas sûr de moi???
PS: les descriptions de retours de voyages ont l'air tous géniaux, mais les conseils des affaires étrangères sont pas très rassurantes...
Merci pour ton avis.
PS: tu m'écrire en direct si tu veux.
Je fais appel à ta grande expérience du pays pour avoir tes conseils. Voilà, on part 3 semaines 1/2 en septembre avec ma copine. J'ai déjà eu des echos de copains qui y sont déjà allé et je suis submergé par la descriptions de beaux paysages... je suis donc plongé dans le lonely pour faire notre itinéraire. Et justement, c'est exactement celui que tu as conseillé, à savoir : je voudrais faire Tana-Ambositra directement et 2j sur place dans les villages alentours, puis direction Fiananrantsoa pour ensuite prendre le train pour manakara, remonter par le parc de Ranomafana, descendre sur Ambalavao et le parc de l'andringitra (y passer 2/3j), puis descendre directement sur Tuléar (mais je pense que c'est pas possible car trop long). Je n'ai pas envie de faire le parc de l'Isalo et il me semble qu'il n'y a pas d'intérêt à s'arrêter dans les villes intermédiaires. Je pense passé 2j vers Ifaty ou saint augustin et prendre l'avion pour Tana car ma dernière semaine sera réservée à du farniente sur Sainte Marie! Ouf!
En fait, j'ai pas trop envie d'aller dans les grandes villes Antsirabe, Fiananratsoa, les villes des mines de saphir...
Mais questions sont maintenant les suivantes: Ne trouves-tu pas que c'est beaucoup en peu de temps (16j pour jusqu'au départ tuléar-tana), connaissant le dicton mora-mora et les difficultés pour circuler, retards...
Mais surtout, ma plus grande crainte (certainement celle du novice) est de trouver des moyens de transports, sachant que le parcours est un peu alambiqué, de ne pas passer mon temps à chercher un moyen de transport... j'avoue que je visualise pas trop la chose, n'étant peut être pas sûr de moi???
PS: les descriptions de retours de voyages ont l'air tous géniaux, mais les conseils des affaires étrangères sont pas très rassurantes...
Merci pour ton avis.
PS: tu m'écrire en direct si tu veux.
c est un peu dommage de demander a jipi qui est un fin connaisseur de madagascar d entâmer avec lui une discussion privée alors qu on aurait bien aimé connaître ses commentaires sur ton projet de voyage intéressant .... dommage !... on saura jamais !!!😕
Salut Jipi,
Ma copine & moi partons un peu plus de 3 semaines à Mada entre mi-Mai & mi-Juin.
Je pense que je trouverai des réponses à certaines questions que je me pose dans cette discussion (je vais essayer de ne pas te reposer de questions auxquelles tu as déjà répondu...).
Une petite question météo : j'ai lu qu'en mai-juin, la partie Est était encore bien arrosée, en tout cas plus qu'en septembre-octobre.
Y a-t-il des risques que certaines zones de l'île soient inaccessibles ou difficilement accessible (routes coupées, inondations, ...)?
De manière plus générale, de ton expérience, sachant qu'on aura certainement pas le temps de tout voir (on aime bien prendre notre temps) & que tout à l'air sympa, quelles zones de l'Ile nous conseillerais tu pour avoir la météo optimale en mai-juin ?
Condition non discutable exigée par ma copine : voir des lémuriens !!!!
Merci d'avance pour tes conseils
Ma copine & moi partons un peu plus de 3 semaines à Mada entre mi-Mai & mi-Juin.
Je pense que je trouverai des réponses à certaines questions que je me pose dans cette discussion (je vais essayer de ne pas te reposer de questions auxquelles tu as déjà répondu...).
Une petite question météo : j'ai lu qu'en mai-juin, la partie Est était encore bien arrosée, en tout cas plus qu'en septembre-octobre.
Y a-t-il des risques que certaines zones de l'île soient inaccessibles ou difficilement accessible (routes coupées, inondations, ...)?
De manière plus générale, de ton expérience, sachant qu'on aura certainement pas le temps de tout voir (on aime bien prendre notre temps) & que tout à l'air sympa, quelles zones de l'Ile nous conseillerais tu pour avoir la météo optimale en mai-juin ?
Condition non discutable exigée par ma copine : voir des lémuriens !!!!
Merci d'avance pour tes conseils
Je peux te dire que la Côte Est est toute l'année très arrosée. Attention au palu ; en particulier sous la forme du redoutable falciparum résistant aux traitement préventifs. Personnellement, j'ai vécu plusieus années en Afrique, je ne prends jamais de Nivaquine qui ne sert plus à rien mais ne pars jamais sans un remède curatif (HALFAN) délivré sur ordonnance mais non remboursé par laa Sécu.
Bon voyage et fais-nous part de tes découivertes.
Retraitée hyper-active
"Le plus beau cadeau que l'on puisse faire est de laisser à l'autre la liberté de le refuser" (Georges Renevey)
"Le plus beau cadeau que l'on puisse faire est de laisser à l'autre la liberté de le refuser" (Georges Renevey)
Bonjour!
As tu des suggestions pour Mnakara pour les we. je vais faire du bénévolat à Manakara. Nos we sont libres. je me renseigne donc sur les escapades à faire pour les we. A la fin de nos trois semaines de bénévolat, nous avons une semaine de tourisme. Nous devons reprendre l'avion à Tana. Que me conseilles tu?
Il y a biens le parc traversé par le train, le canal de panganale. mais j'eai entendu parler d'une autre réserve près de Manakara (un peu plus bas). Peux tu m'en dire plus?
Merci.
As tu des suggestions pour Mnakara pour les we. je vais faire du bénévolat à Manakara. Nos we sont libres. je me renseigne donc sur les escapades à faire pour les we. A la fin de nos trois semaines de bénévolat, nous avons une semaine de tourisme. Nous devons reprendre l'avion à Tana. Que me conseilles tu?
Il y a biens le parc traversé par le train, le canal de panganale. mais j'eai entendu parler d'une autre réserve près de Manakara (un peu plus bas). Peux tu m'en dire plus?
Merci.
Bonjour,
je voudrais partir à madagascar cet été. Comme je suis étudiante, j'ai un budget assez sérré. J'ai trouvé un vol pour 803 euros (pas encore trop cher) mais je voudrais savoir si c'est possible de vivre bon marché style routard. Le camping, la bouffe sur les marchés, les transports publics, c'est pas trop honéreux pour un mois de baroudage?
Merci pour toutes les infos que tu pourras me transmettre.
je voudrais partir à madagascar cet été. Comme je suis étudiante, j'ai un budget assez sérré. J'ai trouvé un vol pour 803 euros (pas encore trop cher) mais je voudrais savoir si c'est possible de vivre bon marché style routard. Le camping, la bouffe sur les marchés, les transports publics, c'est pas trop honéreux pour un mois de baroudage?
Merci pour toutes les infos que tu pourras me transmettre.
Salut jipi!
Je vais aller à Madagascar pour la deuxième fois, en septembre -octobre prochain. Cette année je souhaite me diriger vers le nord, Mahajanga, Diégo-suarez, la montagne d'Ambre, descendre un bout de la côte est, Sambava (côte de la vanille). Sais-tu s'il est possible de rejoindre Tamatave sans revenir par le même chemin? Les transports en camion brousse ne me font pas peur (je me suis tapé Tuléar Morondava, çà ne sera guère pire!)
Merci pour tes infos.
Je vais aller à Madagascar pour la deuxième fois, en septembre -octobre prochain. Cette année je souhaite me diriger vers le nord, Mahajanga, Diégo-suarez, la montagne d'Ambre, descendre un bout de la côte est, Sambava (côte de la vanille). Sais-tu s'il est possible de rejoindre Tamatave sans revenir par le même chemin? Les transports en camion brousse ne me font pas peur (je me suis tapé Tuléar Morondava, çà ne sera guère pire!)
Merci pour tes infos.
Bonjour,
Le tourisme est déjà malheureusement pas mal développé sur l'île Sainte Marie, il y a profusion d'hôtels bungalows de toutes sortes du luxe avec piscine au petit hôtel rudimentaire. Le tout est principalement géré par des Vazahas.
Quel investissement vas-tu faire sur l'île ? J'ai une case sur l'île aux nattes et des amis hôteliers sur Sainte Marie et je n'ai pas eu vent d'occase ? Du moins pas d'occase réelle en dehors de deux "pièges" qui attendent un acheteur depuis un ou deux ans... attentions aux pièges...
Compte tenu du prix du billet et du prix des chambres et bungalows sur le magnifique site Sainte Marie, c'est encore préservé du tourisme de masse mais la taille de l'île et la fragilité de sa flore et de sa faune ne permet pas à mon humble avis, plus de développement sans définitivement gâché la beauté de se paradis.
Le défi est déjà perdu, car le développement du tourisme sur l'île de quelque forme que se soit, est une priorité du nouveau président Ravalomanana (son premier ministre est Saint-marien... ).
Monter un hôtel même sous le prétexte "d'éco-tourisme" c'est monter un hôtel tout de même qui a immanquablement un mauvais impact sur la nature profonde de l'île : eaux usées, piétinements, lagon brassé... pollutions de toutes sortes, et dérangement de la faune...
J'ai vu quelques réalisations d'éco-tourisme côtier qui ne sont ni-plus ni moins des infrastructures touristiques de petites tailles en bois provoquant les mêmes impacts qu'une forme traditionnelle de tourisme en ciment, seul les matériaux change ...
Il y a des endroits si beaux qu'il ne faudrait pas aucun hôtel pour les défigurer, même discrètement....
La nature est si belle...
Francis
Le tourisme est déjà malheureusement pas mal développé sur l'île Sainte Marie, il y a profusion d'hôtels bungalows de toutes sortes du luxe avec piscine au petit hôtel rudimentaire. Le tout est principalement géré par des Vazahas.
Quel investissement vas-tu faire sur l'île ? J'ai une case sur l'île aux nattes et des amis hôteliers sur Sainte Marie et je n'ai pas eu vent d'occase ? Du moins pas d'occase réelle en dehors de deux "pièges" qui attendent un acheteur depuis un ou deux ans... attentions aux pièges...
Compte tenu du prix du billet et du prix des chambres et bungalows sur le magnifique site Sainte Marie, c'est encore préservé du tourisme de masse mais la taille de l'île et la fragilité de sa flore et de sa faune ne permet pas à mon humble avis, plus de développement sans définitivement gâché la beauté de se paradis.
Le défi est déjà perdu, car le développement du tourisme sur l'île de quelque forme que se soit, est une priorité du nouveau président Ravalomanana (son premier ministre est Saint-marien... ).
Monter un hôtel même sous le prétexte "d'éco-tourisme" c'est monter un hôtel tout de même qui a immanquablement un mauvais impact sur la nature profonde de l'île : eaux usées, piétinements, lagon brassé... pollutions de toutes sortes, et dérangement de la faune...
J'ai vu quelques réalisations d'éco-tourisme côtier qui ne sont ni-plus ni moins des infrastructures touristiques de petites tailles en bois provoquant les mêmes impacts qu'une forme traditionnelle de tourisme en ciment, seul les matériaux change ...
Il y a des endroits si beaux qu'il ne faudrait pas aucun hôtel pour les défigurer, même discrètement....
La nature est si belle...
Francis
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Blanche & Nicolas
Dates: June 23 → July 8 (possibly until July 12) Duration: 2 to 3 weeks Budget: Not really an issue for this trip
Our plan: - A seaside destination first and foremost, with beautiful beaches - We’d like to do some hiking or at least go on walks with scenic viewpoints - A relaxing trip with sunshine, lush greenery, and stunning landscapes - A safe destination
Our thoughts so far: - New Zealand: our dream, but it seems like the wrong time of year weather-wise ++ - Azores: ruled out due to unpredictable weather—what do you think? - Mauritius/Reunion combo: vetoed by my future wife ^^ - Seychelles: seems like it could work, but I’ve read about a few downsides (no shops to buy food, snorkeling not always amazing, occasional weather/tide issues making swimming tricky)
Other options: - French Polynesia: we’re really dreaming of it, but is 2 weeks too short for such a long trip? - Hawaii: same question—too far? - Sardinia?
Thanks so much for your help, and have a great weekend!
Blanche & Nicolas
Hey everyone,
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major... So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Thanks
Every year, we love escaping the autumn season—I really can’t stand it—by heading somewhere sunny during the All Saints' holiday.
This year, we were thinking of Mauritius... We’d found a place to stay, but after digging deeper, I realized it’s 40% cheaper in July. And the flights with Emirates aren’t more expensive in the summer, even though it’s peak season for them, compared to October.
Yet, after checking a bunch of sites, I don’t get the impression the weather is bad there in July—maybe just a *tiny* bit less hot than in October, but nothing major... So we’re tempted to go this summer after all.
This big price jump for All Saints' compared to summer is a mystery to me... Did I miss something?
If you’ve got any firsthand experience traveling to Mauritius in July or early August, I’d love to hear about it.
Thanks
Hi
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
Are there any boat connections between Mananara and Sambava in September 2026?
Thanks for your replies
Hi! Recently, the domestic-flight terminal at Ivato has been moved to the old "international" airport, complete with its own scanner. On October 13th, I checked my luggage (which I had inspected before leaving my hotel in Tana) for a flight to Sambava. It wasn’t until I arrived at my accommodation in Antalaha and opened it that I discovered it had been searched (normal before boarding a plane), but to my surprise, the case containing my GPS fishfinder had been opened—likely mistaken for a laptop due to the scanner’s open access to all kinds of theft—and three SD cards were stolen. Luckily, two of the SD cards had their micro SDs inserted into the device, so I still had the Navionics micro card (300 €) essential for fishing. Of course, I’m not asking for compensation, just urging caution with checked luggage on "domestic" flights. (This is a copy-paste of my post on *Le Routard*.)
Hello,
I’m continuing the Antalaha–Maroantsetra discussion but for some info in the other direction, specifically about hiking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha.
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
In mid-December, I plan to take it easy from Tamatave to Antalaha. I’m thinking of making a few stops, like Nosy Atafana—has anyone snorkeled there? Is it nice? Can you find bush taxis on the Soniera–Ivongo / Maroantsetra stretch?
After that, I’m considering walking from Maroantsetra to Antalaha and figuring things out as I go, since the path seems well-used, so I’m not planning on a guide. Good idea or totally foolish? Should I bring a tent and some camping gear, or, as I’ve read multiple times, are there several villages with lodging and food options along the way? Any spots worth stopping at or nothing special to see?
In Antalaha, I saw the recommendation for Villa Malaza in the previous discussion, so I’m keeping that in mind. If there’s space, I’ll plan to stay there. In Antalaha itself, are there any places to visit, things to see, or activities you’d recommend?
Thanks in advance to everyone for any tips—they’ll be really helpful!
Hi everyone,
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
I'm looking for a private transfer from Tana to Mananjary from May 16 to 20, 2026.
Do you have a contact, please?
Best regards,
Jary
Well, I still feel a bit lonely about this destination—no requests for info, no travel journals, or trip reports since I last posted over a year ago. A little disheartening.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
That said, I did cross paths with slightly more tourists this time. Not a ton, but enough to notice compared to my last stay. Beyond that, not much has changed—the people are just as lovely, and every interaction, whether at the market, in the medinas, in town, or in the countryside, was positive. It was so pleasant; my "alert meter" stayed at zero the whole time (which is pretty different from some other places I visit now and then). The roads outside the cities remain dangerous, and the accident rate seems high. Best to drive during the day and take it easy (on some rough stretches, you don’t really have a choice anyway). The scattered plastic and metal waste hasn’t magically disappeared, and it’s still pretty discouraging to see the most beautiful beaches surrounded by empty bottles, straws, diapers, and rusted carcasses of an old Xantia or a skeletal Espace. When it’s not on the beach itself (since those are cleaned), it’s just a few meters away. Usually, there’s not much in the water or close to shore—the seabeds are gorgeous, with coral and a wide variety of scaly friends... But stepping back onto the hardened lava, you dodge a chip bag or a shriveled battery. Such a paradox. Honestly, it’s like this almost everywhere except on hotel beaches or those far from human settlements. But otherwise, in places like Chomoni, Bouni, Itsandra, Moya, and Domoni (on Anjouan), Nioumachoua (on Mohéli, and even on the nearby islets), it’s hard to ignore. And it unfortunately tarnishes the beauty of these otherwise stunning spots.
That said, you can still find secluded micro-bays, protected and remote, where this isn’t an issue. And where there are hotels—like in Petite Itsandra in Moroni, in front of Laka Lodge in Nioumachoua, Trou du Prophète, or even Chomoni (though the surrounding areas are so littered...)—the beaches are cleaned, so...
So why go? Why still love it despite all this? Well, first, the Comorians themselves—that’s already essential and probably the main reason. Then there’s the breathtaking topography: the imposing Karthala, the dizzying peaks and cliffs of Anjouan, vast ravines, a tortured geology covered in lush nature, and Mohéli, much more serene and gentle, blanketed in spice plants and trees with names that make you dream, like an open-air spice market. The flora across the islands—the fields, trees, scents: clove trees, cinnamon trees, lychee, mango, cardamom, nutmeg, vanilla, coconut palms, banana trees, coffee plants, cocoa... A profusion of green dotted with red, white, and yellow berries and flowers... The seabeds are stunning in many places, and there are some beautiful beaches/oceanfront spots, especially near Trou du Prophète (but not only there). The history and culture—between traditional festivals, but especially the medinas with their staircases, covered passages, palaces, and mosques that create Escher-like constructions. I love wandering through them for hours, stumbling upon an unlikely shop, a more or less philosophical saying like "pain is a warning," "a promise is a debt," or the less original "little by little, the bird makes its nest." A grocery store, women negotiating freshly caught fish (usually tuna, immediately cut and ready to sell), kids playing, old men playing checkers, a call to prayer... In Moroni, Mutsamudu, and Domoni, I spent most of my "urban" time.
If anyone’s interested—though given the hype about Comoros on the forum, I doubt it—but if you need info on accommodation across the three islands, some restaurants, or sites to visit, don’t hesitate to ask.
This message is another message in a bottle (one more, if I dare...) for the Comoros destination.
hi there
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
I’ll be in Antalaha in October and need to get to Maroantsetra. I’ve heard it’s possible by boat, but I can’t find any info about it. So I’m wondering if I’ll have to arrange something with local fishing boats or something else, and whether it’s a risky trip since the sea can get rough on Madagascar’s east coast. Has anyone done this before, or just know anything about it? What do you think?
Hello, we’re heading to Mauritius for two weeks at the end of October. We’ll be staying in Trou aux Biches. We’d like to explore the island by bus if possible, so if you have any tips, we’d love to hear them. We’re on half-board, so we’ll also be checking out some nice, typical little restaurants and snack spots. Thanks in advance for your help!
Hi, is it possible to find out? How can I stay for 3 consecutive months in Madagascar, based on a fixed-date flight ticket? In short, how do I get a visa stamped at the airport??
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Does anyone know if there’s maritime transport from the southern tip of Africa to a port in MADAGASCAR?
CHEAPER THAN A FLIGHT, see you soon, fellow traveler!!
Hi there,
We’ve booked accommodation at Digwa Beach Chalet on La Digue. We’ll be arriving and leaving by ferry.
We’re only a 20-minute walk from our rental.
I was wondering if anyone has stayed at this place before and knows if they pick you up from the ferry? Is it free? How much does it cost?
My husband has reduced mobility and with the luggage, it’s not going to be easy. I’ve sent a message to the accommodation but haven’t heard back yet... Thanks so much for your help!
hi, does anyone have any recent info on the condition of this RN6 route? roadworks? maintenance?
and of course, about the two river crossings at Gué between Ambanja and Ambilobe on the Ifatsy and Mahavavy rivers (at the entrance to Ambilobe)
condition of the ferries, possible start of work on the bridges (with the addition of Bailey bridges)
any info after the rainy season, meaning after April 2025
thanks
Can you tell me how long (on average...) the Tana to Tamatave trip takes with local minibus transport?
Which reliable company do you recommend for booking?
Hi there,
We’re thinking of doing the train journey from Fianarantsoa to Manakara again. Is the train still running? After that, we’re planning to go from Manakara to Fort Dauphin by 4x4. Thanks for any tips you can share!
Hello,
After over 40 years of traveling, I’ve never used a driver-guide before.
Given my age, this time I’d like to avoid being squeezed into a bush taxi. I’ve never rented a 4x4 but usually go for sedans.
So, for my upcoming trip to Madagascar, I decided to hire a 4x4 with a driver. I contacted about ten agencies and guides listed in the GR, LP, and travel forums. The quotes I got for 20 days range from 6000 € to 1300 €, with or without fuel included. Most ask for either a full bank transfer upfront or a mobile wallet payment (30%, etc.) from France.
Personally, I’d prefer to see the vehicle and the driver before making any payment.
Also, I’d rather pay at the end of my trip.
Is it possible to find a provider in Tana upon arrival for around 50 or 60 € per day, including fuel, with short notice, some flexibility in my itinerary, and without being forced to accept the dictates of agencies or drivers recommended on certain forums?
Thanks for your replies.
Hello!
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
My wife and I (Quebecers, 63 years old, retired, celebrating our 45 years together this year, including 20 years of marriage) have chosen to mark the occasion with a trip to Dubai, Réunion, and Mauritius (4 days in Dubai, then 24 days on the islands).
We have a lot of experience planning road trips (scouting routes, visits, hotels, and restaurants of interest), but we travel without reservations to keep the freedom to follow our instincts and tips we get on the spot. We’re moderately active physically and prefer the countryside and beaches over big cities. Our only fixed dates: arrival in Réunion on October 5th and departure from Mauritius on October 29th.
After lots of reading and with the help of an AI (super useful for drafting a first outline!), here’s a possible itinerary framework. Nothing is set in stone—I’d love your suggestions, comments, and thoughts on what’s worth adding or avoiding. Are the proposed bases optimal? Also, if you have recommendations for hotels (mid-range budget of 100–200 euros per night), restaurants, etc., I’m all ears! ;-)
Thanks! 😊
🌴 Réunion (October 5–13, 9 days) Base 1 – Saint-Gilles / L’Hermitage (October 5–8, 3 nights) Oct 5 (Sun): Settle in, relax at L’Hermitage beach. Oct 6 (Mon): Saint-Paul market (morning), beach + sunset at Boucan Canot. Oct 7 (Tue): Excursion to Maïdo (view of Mafate), return via Saint-Leu (Stella Matutina). Oct 8 (Wed): Beach + dolphin/whale-watching boat trip.
Base 2 – Cilaos (October 8–10, 2 nights) Oct 9 (Thu): Route des 400 virages, stroll through the village and Roche Merveilleuse. Oct 10 (Fri): Hike to Bras Rouge (3–4h) or the Chapelle canyon. Creole inn evening.
Base 3 – Plaine des Cafres / Bourg-Murat (October 10–13, 3 nights) Oct 11 (Sat): Road to the volcano → Plaine des Sables → Piton de la Fournaise. Oct 12 (Sun): Wild south coast at Cap Méchant, lava flows, Jardin Parfums, Grande Anse beach. Oct 13 (Mon): Relaxed morning, flight from Réunion to Mauritius.
🏝️ Mauritius (October 13–29, 16 days) Base 1 – Grand Baie / Pereybère (October 13–18, 5 nights) Oct 13 (Mon): Settle in, swim at Mont Choisy. Oct 14 (Tue): Boat excursion to Île Plate & Coin de Mire. Oct 15 (Wed): Pamplemousses Garden + L’Aventure du Sucre. Evening in Grand Baie. Oct 16 (Thu): Trou aux Biches beach, snorkeling. Oct 17 (Fri): Free day, relaxation/shopping.
Base 2 – Flic-en-Flac / Tamarin (October 18–23, 5 nights) Oct 18 (Sat): Drive to the west, settle in, beach. Oct 19 (Sun): Dolphin excursion in Tamarin, relax in the afternoon. Oct 20 (Mon): Chamarel: Terres 7 Couleurs + rum distillery. Oct 21 (Tue): Black River Gorges (hike + waterfalls). Oct 22 (Wed): Snorkeling + sunset.
Base 3 – Belle Mare / Trou d’Eau Douce (October 23–26, 3 nights) Oct 23 (Thu): Settle in, Belle Mare beach. Oct 24 (Fri): Catamaran excursion to Île aux Cerfs. Oct 25 (Sat): Flacq market (morning), beach in the afternoon.
Base 4 – Mahébourg / Blue Bay (October 26–29, 3 nights) Oct 26 (Sun): Settle in, snorkeling at Blue Bay Marine Park. Oct 27 (Mon): Pointe d’Esny + Île aux Aigrettes. Oct 28 (Tue): Free beach day + Mahébourg village. Oct 29 (Wed): Morning swim, return flight at 4 PM (airport is 15 min away).
Hey there,
I’m moving to Réunion Island in September and I’d love to hear about your experiences there. What’s there to do and what should I avoid?
Do you have any great tips for budget-friendly accommodation or places to stay?
Any advice on how to save money while I’m there?
Thanks in advance!
Hi everyone,
My friend and I are heading to Madagascar in March, and we were wondering if it’s possible to bring some cash and top up once we’re there (specifically in Tana).
Is it worth exchanging money if euros are accepted everywhere?
Thanks for your always super helpful tips on VF!
Hi there,
How do you get from Tamatave or Foulpointe to Sainte Marie Island? We’re heading to Madagascar from July 16 to 29, 2025.
How many days should we stay to explore the area?
What’s there to do in Tamatave, Foulpointe, or Sainte Marie Island?
What should we visit?
Thanks everyone!
Hi,
I’m taking the Cotisse bus soon to go to Antsohihy, so the route is Tana-Majunga with a stop at Antanambaza.
How long does it take to get to Antanambaza? Should I leave at 6:30 PM or 7:00 AM?
Considering I’ll probably need to find a hotel while waiting for a *taxi be* to Antsohihy, I’d rather not arrive in the middle of the night.
And since I’m asking—does anyone have a hotel recommendation in Antanambaza?
Also, can you find a seat on a *taxi be* mid-route?
Thanks! !
Thanks! !
Hi everyone! I’ve put together an itinerary for Madagascar and would love to get your feedback if you can help—thanks!
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
December 6–9: Antananarivo 3 nights, sightseeing Andasibe-Mantadia National Park Rova of Antananarivo (Ambohimanga Fort) Lemurs’ Park
December 9–11: Fianarantsoa, 2 nights Ranomafana National Park
Ambalavao, December 11–13, 2 nights Andringitra National Park
December 13–15: Ranohira or Ilakaka, 2 nights Monkey Canyon visit Isalo National Park
December 15–18: Tulear, 3 nights Reniala Reserve visit Beach time, possible diving Antsokay Arboretum Ifaty Forest
December 18–19: Full day—take a flight to the capital and stay overnight Then on December 19, take the bus to Morondava
December 19–23: Morondava, 4 nights Kirindy Mitea National Park Avenue of the Baobabs Tsingy de Bemaraha National Park
12:30-hour bus ride from Morondava to the capital
Antananarivo, December 23–24 11:30-hour trip from the capital to Mahajanga
Mahajanga/Majunga, December 24–27, 3 nights Ankarafantsika National Park visit
Ambanja District, 3 nights December 27–30 Tsaratanana Nature Reserve visit Maromokotro trek
Nosy Be Island, December 30–January 7, 2026, 8 nights diving, beach time, relaxation, walks, hiking, snorkeling
Antsiranana, January 7–11, 4 nights Ambavanibe Bay visit Montagne d’Ambre National Park
Return to the capital for a flight home or a 28-hour bus ride
1 or 2 nights in Antananarivo depending on the return trip
January 13: Departure for France Arrival in Paris, France the next day
I'm heading to Nosy Be (Madagascar) this coming October. This is my very first visit to this part of the Indian Ocean. I'd like to know if it's better to bring my bank card and withdraw cash from ATMs there, or if it would be preferable to bring cash in euros or dollars and exchange it for the local currency upon arrival.
Thanks!
/D




