Parcours Oued Laou - El Jebha (Corniche du Rif) au Maroc: possibilités d'hébergement?
by Ajft
This discussion is in French, the community’s main language.
Original post
Bonjour,
Je cherche des informations récentes sur ce trajet (que j'ai parcouru il y a... 30 ans), entre autres sur les possibilités d'hébergement (inexistantes à l'époque).
Merci!
Bonjour,
Ca a bien changé depuis mais rassure-toi, moins de dégats que vers Taghazout ou plus au nord.
Tu peux facilement trouver des petits appartements et studio meublés dans les villages suivants: Oued Laou, Kaa Asras, Targha, Stehat, Shmaala et Jebha, en plus d'hôtels à Oued Laou, Stehat et Jebha.
Merci de ces renseignements.
Retour d'info: La route Oued Laou - Jebha est en très mauvais état. D'énormes travaux pour la construction de la "rocade méditerranéenne" sont en cours. Il faut donc environ 4 heures pour parcourir ces 100 km, parmi les mastodontes de chantier. Le tronçon Jebha - Alhuceima de ladite rocade est terminé. Une "Trois voies" pharaonique, quasiment déserte, et déjà effondrée à de nombreux endroits. La route du Rif, de Targuist à Chaouen, est aussi très abimée. Pas vu les habituels "herboristes" de bord de route. Les temps changent. 😉
Retour d'info: La route Oued Laou - Jebha est en très mauvais état. D'énormes travaux pour la construction de la "rocade méditerranéenne" sont en cours. Il faut donc environ 4 heures pour parcourir ces 100 km, parmi les mastodontes de chantier. Le tronçon Jebha - Alhuceima de ladite rocade est terminé. Une "Trois voies" pharaonique, quasiment déserte, et déjà effondrée à de nombreux endroits. La route du Rif, de Targuist à Chaouen, est aussi très abimée. Pas vu les habituels "herboristes" de bord de route. Les temps changent. 😉
bonjour
je voulais vous informer que si vous etes interessé par des vacances à jebha, j'ai un ami qui a une maison laba , pied sur mer avec une vue splendide sur les montagnes, vous pouvez me contacter pour plus dinformations et pour que je vous envoi des tofs, mon mail est :chafik.ahmed.farouk@gmail.com
Bonjour,
je viens de lire ton message et je cherche justement des renseignements sur la route Oued Laou -Jebha que je compte parcourir en voiture "normale" (C4) en juillet. Sais tu où je pourrais avoir des renseignements dessus ?
Idem pour un logement à Jebha : y at il une adresse sympa pour 1 famille de 4 (couple & 2 enfants de 10 et 14 ans).
Merci par avance
Virginie
merci pour ta réponse rapide. Je crois que je vais appeler directement Fouad à l'hotel Mamoud et j'en profiterai pour faire la résa pour 2 nuits.
En dehors de l'aspect route, le village en lui même restait t il préservé quand tu y as été ? Est ce une bonne idée d'y rester 2 jours sur les 6 que nous passerons au Maroc ? Quand j'étais gamine nous faisions un mois de camping sauvage sur la grande plage d'1km de long au moins qu'il y a en direction de l'ouest : souvenirs fabuleux...
Merci par avance pour ta réponse.
Virginie
Bonjour!
Je rappelle que mes infos datent de mars 2010.
La piste Oued Laou - Jebha était en travaux pour en faire une route (Suite de la "rocade méditerranéenne"). Travaux colossaux qui pourraient bien ne pas être terminés actuellement. A voir...
Entre Chaouen et Oued Laou, la route est plutôt bonne, mais il y avait une déviation par une piste extrêmement pentue et caillouteuse.
Tetouan - Oued Laou, pas de problème. Mais Oued Laou n'est plus du tout ce qu'il était. Ca bétonne.
Jebha (au fond, sur la 2è photo) n'est pas trop massacrée, mais ça ne va pas durer...
Là où le goudron passe, le parpaing rapplique! 🤪
La piste Oued Laou - Jebha était en travaux pour en faire une route (Suite de la "rocade méditerranéenne"). Travaux colossaux qui pourraient bien ne pas être terminés actuellement. A voir...
Entre Chaouen et Oued Laou, la route est plutôt bonne, mais il y avait une déviation par une piste extrêmement pentue et caillouteuse.
Tetouan - Oued Laou, pas de problème. Mais Oued Laou n'est plus du tout ce qu'il était. Ca bétonne.
Jebha (au fond, sur la 2è photo) n'est pas trop massacrée, mais ça ne va pas durer...
Là où le goudron passe, le parpaing rapplique! 🤪
Bonsoir,
Infos de fevrier 2011: La route Tetouan Oued Laou est actuellement en travaux, tout le trajet est remanié , en camping car 2h30 de trajet par temps sec! La route Oued Laou Chefchaouen est actuellement en reconstruction sur la moitié du parcours avec des portions de piste assez difficiles, a deconseiller par temps de pluie!
Infos de fevrier 2011: La route Tetouan Oued Laou est actuellement en travaux, tout le trajet est remanié , en camping car 2h30 de trajet par temps sec! La route Oued Laou Chefchaouen est actuellement en reconstruction sur la moitié du parcours avec des portions de piste assez difficiles, a deconseiller par temps de pluie!
Gérard,
voyageur en camping-car au Moyen-orient et au Maghreb
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
merci pour ces précisions.
En fait je ne comptais pas faire la portion vers Tetouan, mais celle de Jebha à Oued Laou puis, c'est vrai Oued Laou Chefchaouen. Si je comprends bien tu as bifurqué à Oued Laou vers Chefchaouen mais tu n'as pas fait la côte vers Jebha, c'est bien cela ? Et quoiqu'il en soit tu me déconseilles la portion Oues Laou Chefchaouen. D'un autre côté en juillet, côté pluie... ça se tente sans doute.
Virginie
Bonsoir,
D'ici juillet des améliorations sont possible, il n'y aura peut etre plus de pluie, c'est un parcours possible avec précaution!!
D'ici juillet des améliorations sont possible, il n'y aura peut etre plus de pluie, c'est un parcours possible avec précaution!!
Gérard,
voyageur en camping-car au Moyen-orient et au Maghreb
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
Bonjour,
entre Oued Laou et EL jabha il y'a 86 km selon le panneau, voir photo, en fait le panneau se trouve à la bifurcation, ce qu'on appelle labàs le control, il faut ajouter donc quelques 3 ou 4 km qui restent pour arriver au village de Oued laou, la route comme a été dit est trés abîmée, en construction avec bcp de camions et de grues, il faut faire attention au grues qui deversent les pierres, à un moment donné, ils m'ont laissé que quelques secondes et vu que j'étais en vélo, j'ai eu réellement peur.. il y'a quelques villages entre Oued Laou et ELjabha, Targha, ouled Ahmed -> Steha , Amthar.. j'ai pas vraiement regardé pour les hotels car j'ai dormi entre les deux villages dans ma tente..les paysages par contre sont époustouflants
bonne chance
entre Oued Laou et EL jabha il y'a 86 km selon le panneau, voir photo, en fait le panneau se trouve à la bifurcation, ce qu'on appelle labàs le control, il faut ajouter donc quelques 3 ou 4 km qui restent pour arriver au village de Oued laou, la route comme a été dit est trés abîmée, en construction avec bcp de camions et de grues, il faut faire attention au grues qui deversent les pierres, à un moment donné, ils m'ont laissé que quelques secondes et vu que j'étais en vélo, j'ai eu réellement peur.. il y'a quelques villages entre Oued Laou et ELjabha, Targha, ouled Ahmed -> Steha , Amthar.. j'ai pas vraiement regardé pour les hotels car j'ai dormi entre les deux villages dans ma tente..les paysages par contre sont époustouflants
bonne chance
"The true traveller is without goal, it is the absence of goals which creates the ultimate traveller."Gao Xingjian 'Soul Mountain'
Bonjour,
Dites-moi, pourriez me dire si la rocade est bientôt terminée pour ce qui est du tronçon entre oued lahou et jebha?
et entre tetouan et oued lahou?
Je compte faire le trajet ce juillet en voiture (opel zafira) et je voudrais savoir si la route n'est pas trop dangereuse.
Merci
Bonsoir,
La fin des travaux est prévue pour 2012 inch Allah!
La fin des travaux est prévue pour 2012 inch Allah!
Gérard,
voyageur en camping-car au Moyen-orient et au Maghreb
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
http://www.visoterra.com/voyage-decouverte-du-moyen-orient-syrie-jordani/
Salam,
J'ai emprunté la route cette année et elle est entièrement terminée.
1 bande de circulation pour chaque sens a partir de tetouan, et ce jusque saidia.
Une deuxieme bande est aménagée dans les grosses pentes (sens montant) afin de pouvoir depasser les camions en difficulté.A partir de tanger, il est conseillé de se rendre a tetouan par la route normale plutot que par la rocade qui rallonge de + ou - 40km.
En maintenant une vitesse moyenne de 80km/h (60 voire 50 dans les virages, et encore moins dans les epingles) avec possibilité de monter jusque 100 (voire 120) dans les lignes droites, j'ai parcouru tanger jusque saidia en 7h (presque 4h jusque hoceima).
Pour repondre a ta question, j'ai croisé plusieurs taxi entre oued laou et jabha mais aucun car ni bus.
Attention, ne soyez pas surpris: la rocade ne contourne pas jebha et il faut rentre à l'intérieur du village puis en ressortir pour continuer.
Bonne route à tous les voyageurs et soyez prudents surtout!
bonjour c est bien de réactiver cette discussion. je viens d'y rouler et passer trois jours à Stehat et bou hamed.
Finies les angoisses de l'ancienne route. pour que la chose soit totalement parfaite il faut que les conducteurs du Maroc soient plus disciplinés : ce qui loin d etre le cas. alors faites attention au fou et anticipez plus que jamais sur cette route.
il faut ajouter des chutes de pierre surtout la nuit entre Targha et Stehat.
Les bus : j'ai vu les cars (2) de la CTM (compagnie nationale) qui passent vers minuit à hauteur de Stehat faisant Nador Tanger.
j ai vu aussi un car de la CTM faisant le chemin inverse à hauteur de Kaa Assrass vers 21 heures.
il y a aussi deux cars (confort bien moyen) quotidien qui font la navette entre Jebha et tetouan et un autre qui Bou Hamed-Tetouan.
Avec la nouvelle route, c'est un envahissement de taxis entre jebha bouhamed stehat ouedlaou tetouan ou chaouen.
Pour manger du poisson une seule adresse : resto SINDBAD à Kaaasrass (6 km de oued laou direction jebha) toujours plein pendant mon sejour. Ailleurs c'est la galère : je recommande aucun et prenez vos précaution.
pour l hebergement : hotel assez juste à Oued laou, hotel tres propre à Stehat, pension tres tres juste à Bouhamed.
Coté santé : centre de santé et oued laou 6 docteurs et à Stehat avec 4 docteurs - pharmacie oued laou stehat bouhamed- aucun docteur privé sauf pour oued laou.
Superette à Oued laou et à Stehat- Boulangerie moderne à Oued laou et à Stehat.
Pour les distances :
distance faites :
Tetouan-Oaed laou 40 km (Rocade si vous n avez rien à y faire)
tetouan-Stehat 70 km
Oued laou jebha : 85
lu sur la plaque de signalisation :
Stehat -Alhoceima : 174 km
Stehat-Nador : 270
Stehat-Oujda: 402 km
Selon le gens du coin : par rapport à l'ancienne route en partant de tetouan et passant par chefchaouen et ketama, la durée des voyages a été divisée par deux.
pour completer l info voir et eventuellement faire traduire par google traduction : http://writingthemaghreb.wordpress.com/2012/08/27/days-in-stihat/
dusterin alain
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We’re planning to rent a vehicle and are pretty active—we’re not really into crowds (that’s why I’ve decided to skip Marrakech).
Here’s my proposed itinerary:
Trip Proposal Summary: From May 13 (morning arrival) to May 26 (morning departure) Arrival and departure: Essaouira Day 1 (May 13): Arrival in Essaouira – Settling in / Exploring / Rest Day 2 (May 14): Essaouira – Water activities Day 3 (May 15): Essaouira to Tafraoute (~5h30) – route via Agadir – arrival and first exploration; Question: Is a detour to Taroudant worth considering? Day 4 (May 16): Tafraoute – Hike in the granite rocks – wild bivouac Day 5 (May 17): Tafraoute – Aït Mansour gorges – oasis – night in a hostel Day 6 (May 18): Tafraoute → Foum Zguid (~5h) – transition route – simple overnight or bivouac Day 7 (May 19): Foum Zguid → Zagora (~3h) – Draa Valley – desert prep Day 8 (May 20): Zagora → M'Hamid El Ghizlane → Erg Chigaga – departure with 4x4 guide – entering the dunes – bivouac Day 9 (May 21): Erg Chigaga – full desert day – walking, exploring – bivouac Day 10 (May 22): Desert → Ouarzazate (~5–6h) – leaving the desert – rest Day 11 (May 23): Aït Benhaddou – early visit – short hike – overnight stay Day 12 (May 24): Aït Benhaddou → Telouet – route toward the Atlas – start of trek – bivouac Day 13 (May 25): Atlas → Essaouira (~5–6h) – end of trek – return to Essaouira (overnight) Day 14 (May 26): Essaouira – free time + return flight
What do you think?
I aimed for an excursion to the Chigaga desert from M’Hamid because it seems less touristy and allows for a more compact loop. Is that a good idea? Is the drive to M’Hamid maybe too tedious?
Open to your great tips if there’s room for optimization!
All ears! :)
Thanks in advance and have a great day!
Clément
A lot of people find it important to stick to their budget when traveling—not to skimp, but to visit as many places as possible since traveling is their hobby.
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
In this post, I want to share some tips for those coming to Morocco who want their trip to be budget-friendly.
1. Prebook everything: hotels or riads, car rentals, or tours. If you book these in advance, it’ll make your life easier. You won’t have to deal with hagglers or people trying to overcharge you for services that are available online for free. Use platforms like Booking, Expedia, carsrental.ma, Airbnb, and other booking services to get this done properly.
2. Exchange your money to Moroccan dirhams as soon as you land. 1 € is always a little over 10 dirhams, but many people get charged as if it were exactly 10 dirhams per euro.
3. When visiting an old site or the old medina, avoid talking to vendors and shop owners—they’re really good at getting your attention and making you overpay for things.
4. Ask your tour guide to buy things for you. Yes, they do get a commission, but you’ll probably pay way more if you buy something yourself that they can get cheaply.
5. Walk everywhere. You don’t need a taxi for every little trip. Pick a good location and walk—most Moroccan cities are safe during normal hours.
6. Buy your food, drinks, etc., from supermarkets at normal prices. They can’t overcharge you since they scan every product.
I think that’s it for now.
Take care
Hi everyone! 😊
We’re traveling as a family to Marrakech from April 19 to 24, and there’ll be 15 of us (all ages), staying in the Targa neighborhood (El Idrissi Street).
I’d love your advice on a few things! 🙏
🚗 Vehicle rental
We’re thinking of renting 3 cars. We’ve seen really low prices online, but often without insurance.
👉 Do you have any reliable contacts or personal experiences to share?
👉 Would you recommend getting specific “tourist” insurance?
🏛️ Visits – Bahia Palace & Saadian Tombs
We’d like to visit the Bahia Palace and the Saadian Tombs, but:
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
We can’t find single tickets online We only see guided tours with fixed times (like 9:30 AM / 4-hour tours)
👉 Do you know if it’s possible to book without a guide? 👉 Or do we have to buy tickets on-site? (We’re a little worried about crowds and lines, especially with older folks in the group.) 🍽️ Restaurants / meals We’ve spotted the Grand Bazaar Marrakech for a meal. 👉 Any thoughts? 👉 Could you recommend other restaurants in the same budget? (We’re a big group, so it needs to stay reasonable.) For lunch/snacks, we’ve seen:
Snack Toubkal Goûter Saveur
👉 If anyone’s been, I’d love your feedback! 😊 🛒 Practical info – Targa neighborhood We’ll be in Targa (El Idrissi Street). 👉 Are there shops nearby for quick groceries (breakfast, water, etc.)?
If you’ve got any great tips, contacts, or little tricks, I’d love to hear them! 😍 Thanks so much for your help! 💖
As-salamu alaykum!
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
We’re heading to Morocco as a family from April 22 to May 8. It’s a bit short to explore such a beautiful and vast country, but school and work commitments, you know how it is... My partner is a musician and absolutely loves Gnawa music. Unfortunately, we won’t have time to visit Essaouira, as we’re heading south toward the Valley of the Roses...
Do you know of any places around Marrakech, Ouarzazate, or Kelaat M’Gouna where we might have the chance to meet Gnawa musicians? We’ll also be staying a few days in Aït Benhaddou and Skoura during our trip toward the Dadès Valley. If you have any good spots to buy a guembri along the way, I’d love to hear about them too! :)
Thanks in advance for your tips!
Mathieu
Mid-May: arriving alone (so, a "petit taxi"?) at Marrakech airport around 4:30 PM,
is it advisable to take a taxi at the airport (cost?) or is it wiser to book one through the hotel before departure (which would cost me 20 €)?
I think I’ve seen lower fares elsewhere (12 €?).
Destination: Riad Sijane near Djemaa El Fna square. Thanks!
hi there
we’re heading to Hammamet in a few months
what would you recommend visiting for a week?
best regards
Hi there,
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
I’m planning my next trip outside Europe for next year, but unfortunately, I don’t have a choice with the dates—it’s late June to early July. Last year, I went to Japan for three weeks, and it was constantly 36-37°C with over 90% humidity. It wasn’t easy, but it wasn’t impossible either.
For Egypt, I know it’s a period to avoid if possible, but I’m thinking that by the sea, it might be manageable. Otherwise, I’ll consider another destination.
Day 1: Arrival in Hurghada in the evening Day 2, 3, 4: Hurghada Day 5: Hurghada, then drive to Luxor in the early afternoon Day 6: Luxor Day 7: Luxor, then drive back to Hurghada in the late afternoon Day 8, 9, 10, 11: Hurghada Day 12: Return flight
For the Hurghada trip, either rent a car or—easier—a private car/van. Is it worth adding an extra day in Luxor?
During the stay, we’re planning activities like camel rides, quad biking, jeep tours, snorkeling, and jet skiing.
Thanks for your replies
Hi there,
We’re planning a trip to Morocco in September-October in our Fiat camper van, which isn’t a 4x4 but has already handled quite a bit of rough travel. While reading up on southern Morocco, we’ve been drawn to the Aguinane oasis but I’m having trouble locating it on the map. Is it possible to get there without a 4x4?
Thanks for your help
Hi,
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Does anyone know the address of a rose flower distillery in the Valley of Roses / Kelaa M'Gouna? A traditional distillery, not just the tourist shop.
Thanks a bunch!
Nicolas :-)
Hi there,
Can anyone tell me if it's possible to travel from the Dades Gorges (Msemrir) to the Todra Gorges (Tamtatouche) on a paved road? Thanks in advance for any answers.
Hello,
We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days.
Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers.
We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions.
Best regards,
Jacques
Hi there,
I have a layover in Algeria.
I won’t be leaving the airport.
The two tickets aren’t with the same airline.
Do I need a transit visa?
Thanks for any details and your help!
Hi there,
I live in Casablanca and my parents, who are 80, will be joining me in Marrakech at the beginning of May for a few days.
We’ll be renting a car to get around.
Do you have any suggestions for things to see or visit within a 2-3 hour drive max from Marrakech that aren’t too touristy?
My parents can walk a bit, but at 80, no climbing Mount Toubkal!
Thanks so much in advance for your ideas!













