Les villes impériales + haut Atlas en "sac à dos" (Maroc)

Hello to all Morocco lovers,

First of all: a big thank you to everyone whose insightful, funny, lively, and exotic posts we’ve enjoyed. It’s a joy to find such lovely writers on this forum, who’ve given me tons of ideas and addresses to prepare our trip.

Our plan: to explore Morocco from November 2nd to December 4th. We’ll have our own vehicle (a 2011 Renault Grand Scenic, in great condition), shipped with us from Sète to Tanger Med. Returning from Nador.

Our profile: 75 and 62 years young, so old but happy to be, in very good health. Seasoned travelers—it’s practically our whole life. Lovers of beautiful landscapes, historic sites, fine craftsmanship, and road trips. This will be my 3rd trip to Morocco, but the first two were 20 and 17 years ago. I’ve never been north of the Essaouira-Marrakech line (though I’ve gone further south). As for my husband, a lifelong expat including in Muslim countries, it’s his first time in Morocco.

He’s the one driving. He’s very experienced, cautious, not necessarily fast, but used to driving in all conditions (and countries, including the most creative on the road). But I don’t want to tire him out, and he no longer drives at night (and we’ll be there in November).

I’ve decided to show him a bit of everything by taking a road trip along beautiful backroads, with daily distances averaging 180-200 km (except on highways, which will be rare), regularly broken up by rest days. I’m counting on a speed of 40-50 km/h, plus stops/visits along the way.

Since I’ve read so many posts, I’ve narrowed it down to some very specific questions.

1) Coming directly from Rabat via the highway, we’d prefer to skip Marrakech*. Still, we’ll need to sleep somewhere nearby. We’ll head toward Skoura the next day. Does anyone have a well-located address for this route, possibly east of Marrakech? Ideally, we’re looking for a small town, easy parking, clean accommodation (minimum) with average comfort (or better if available), a bit heated, and if possible, pretty and/or nice—but above all, a place to sleep well, wash with lukewarm (ideally hot) water, and have a decent dinner.

(*Explanation for the "no-go" in Marrakech: it’s a shame, because there are truly beautiful things in this city, but I think the vibe won’t suit us—it’s an understatement for "it’ll put us off" / "make us flee" / "traumatize us." Not because it’s too crowded and we want to stand out from tourists (we’re part of them), but because of forced henna on your hand, or spending 10 minutes every quarter-hour saying "no thank you" to a "guide" who’s as much a guide as I am a trapeze artist. Knowing us, it’ll wear us down. The country is vast and beautiful, and our time too short to waste our memories just days after arriving. And I don’t want to ruin things for my peaceful husband, or he’ll demand we turn back—and Sète in November isn’t exactly thrilling either.)

2) Which route to Skoura (in 2 days)? I see two options: either via the Tichka Pass, with a night in Telouet before reaching Skoura, or via the R307/N23 from Demnate, with a night near Megdaz before descending to Skoura. So: Tichka Pass or R307/N23? I have a slight (big) preference for the second option, even though I know the other route is very beautiful too. Of course, before deciding, we’ll check the weather and the current state of the R307/N23—does anyone know where to get info on the road conditions? But even assuming the road is "passable," is it a bit too tough in itself? In short, is it reasonable? If a kind soul could share their experience, a thousand thanks in advance.

That’s all I’ve written for now. I’ll save the other questions for later posts. Thanks again to those who had the patience to read this and to those who can respond. Happy Sunday to all!

Fran

Bonjour à tous, Notre séjour au Maroc sera du 3 au 17 novembre prochain, dans le Haut Atlas. En gros nous ferions : Départ Marrakech - Aït Benhaddou Skoura - Tineghir - Merzouga Merzouga via la N12 jusquà Zagora Zagora - Vallée du Drâa - Marrakech

Il semble que ce soit la saison basse donc mon souhait serait de faire un voyage itinérant sans avoir besoin de réserver les hébergements à l'avance. Dans d'autres pays, les réservations nous ont contraint et empêché de visiter des sites non prévus à notre programme. Notre liberté nous est chère, mais je voudrais aussi éviter d arriver sur place et de ne rien trouver. Que me conseillez vous? Réserver ou pas? Vos conseils sont toujours utiles et merci à tous ceux qui voudront bien éclairer ma lanterne. Roberto

hi, I’m looking for a country to visit for 10 days in February. What do you recommend for a trip with some sunshine, hiking, and sightseeing?

Thanks for your help

Bonjour J'aimerais savoir si la route entre Msemrir et Tamttatouchte est faisable avec une voiture de tourisme ( Dacia logan ). Merci beaucoup

Hi, I’d like to head to Morocco next week with my car. I’ve looked online at all the different info about the ferry crossing to Tangier, but I’m finding it really expensive. Is there a way to buy tickets in Spain? Or another way to get the Algeciras–Tangier crossing cheaper? Thanks for any tips or info!

Hi there,

We found a guide who offers the trip from M'hamid to a camp (departure at 3 PM, tea, meal, camel ride, overnight stay, breakfast, and return to M'Hamid by 11 AM the next day via the sacred oasis). He quoted us a price of 380 € for April. What do you think of this rate? This might sound like a silly question, but is it common to negotiate the price for this kind of thing (we're booking from France)? It’s still a big part of our travel budget.

Thanks

Hi there, We're planning to visit Egypt between January 25 and February 15, 2027. I looked up the Ramadan dates and found some sites saying it starts on February 8, while others say February 18... Where's the mistake? Thanks, Christian

Hi there, We’re a family of 4 with two boys aged 12 and 10 traveling to Egypt in February. We’re spending 3 days in Cairo to take our time exploring the city and the sites before heading south.

-Is it necessary to have a guide to visit the GEM? Are audio guides available? -Do you have any contacts for drivers to organize a few transfers (Giza, Saqqara, Airport)? -Do you know a French-speaking guide who’s friendly, family-friendly, and good at making things exciting, with reasonable prices?

Marie

Hi there!

With our two teens, we’re heading to Morocco for two weeks at the end of December and beginning of January. It’ll be our first trip that’s more "off the beaten path," even though we’ve visited several countries before. Given the overwhelming amount of info, I’m feeling a bit swamped with the prep this trip requires, and I’ll admit I’m a little lost when it comes to figuring out what’s realistic to visit in two weeks 😕 So, all your tips, personal experiences, and suggestions are more than welcome!

- Which places should we prioritize during this time of year? (I’ve read that some spots are less accessible in winter?) - What’s the best way to get around? (rental car, train, private transport, buses, etc.? — just a heads-up, we’ll have a few suitcases!) - In terms of "safety," are there any areas to avoid? - Any recommendations for reliable local tour companies (beyond the big names like "Get Your Guide") that offer excursions or private transport to help us explore the country? - A doable 2-week itinerary that lets us enjoy the country’s diversity without having to change accommodations every two days?

Thanks so much for your advice!

Hi everyone,

I’m planning a trip to the High Atlas in Morocco and have a few questions for you: - Why do so many people recommend avoiding international agencies for car rentals? Can anyone explain why? - Is Booking.com reliable, and has anyone rented a vehicle through their service? There’s a pretty big price difference compared to local Moroccan agencies. - Is there a detailed road map included in the rental car? - Is Google Maps enough to get around the High Atlas? This will be my first trip there.

Thanks so much to anyone who can help with this destination I’ve been dreaming about for years. Have a great evening, Roberto

hi, I just wanted to know the exchange rate for euros in Tunisia, thanks

hi there, I’m heading to Tunisia 🙂 from April 27 to May 8 with my family. I’ve read through the various discussions about the country, but I’m still a bit unsure🤪: for currency exchange, I saw on the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs website that withdrawing currency with a bank card from ATMs is limited to 200 TND per week. There are four of us traveling by car, so that might be a bit tight! And it’s a hassle to carry a lot of cash, even if I’m not being paranoid! What do you all recommend? Cheers, Laurent.

Hi there,

I was wondering if it’s possible to join a group as a solo traveler with local agencies in Djanet for circuits like Tadrart, Essendilene, Sefar, or Tassili? If you have any agencies to recommend, I’d love to hear about them. I didn’t find any info on the forum. Best,

Fouzi

We're planning a 2-week trip in late February/early March for a road trip in the High Atlas with a rental car, and we'd love to avoid booking our accommodations in advance. Is that doable, easily manageable, or risky (are accommodations available, expensive, or not great)? Thanks for your tips! Annie

Hi, This autumn, we’re planning to explore the Oriental region and we’re wondering where the best place to land would be. We’ll have three weeks ahead of us and we’ll be renting a car. Any tips would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Is there an official website or list of certified Egyptologist guides in Egypt? And most importantly, what are the normal prices for a full day or half day? There’s so much scamming and crazy pricing—depending on who you contact, it can range from simple to quadruple!!!! Thanks

Hi everyone, We're leaving in early October 2026 and planning to travel from the Aït Bougmez Valley ("Happy Valley") to Skoura/Ouarzazate via Demnate and the R307/N23 route. Has anyone taken this road recently? Is it passable with a regular car (non-4x4), or is a 4x4 absolutely necessary? Are there any ongoing construction projects or degraded sections to be aware of? Thanks in advance for your feedback!

Hello, In September, my wife and I, along with another couple, will be traveling to Tunisia and staying at the Sheherasade Hotel near Sousse. We’d love to hear your recommendations or tips on places to visit, as well as advice on taxis or other transportation options. Thanks in advance!

Hi there, 🙂

This autumn’s trip should be in Morocco—barring any geopolitical issues between now and then.

After many trips to the south of Fès, I’m giving the north a try.

My plan is roughly to do a road trip loop from Rabat back to Rabat, passing through Asilah, Tangier, Tétouan, Chefchaouen, Akchour, Fès, Meknès, and Volubilis.

That’s a lot of cities. Probably a bit too many for our taste—we usually prefer more isolated spots...

So I’m looking for tips on little backroads, secluded beaches, half-day hikes, and offbeat places.

If you’ve also got recommendations for accommodation... (We’re open to splurging over 100 € if it’s a real favorite.)

Feel free to think outside the box—this is an open-ended plan! !😉

Thanks

Based on your experiences, do you have a professional to recommend?

Hello, I’m looking for testimonials from Pieds-Noirs who have recently returned to Algeria.

There can’t be many left after 65 years of the country’s independence.

I’m planning to go back myself soon to reconnect with my roots... before I pass away...

I’ve started making a few pre-bookings for hotels and apartments to rent in Algiers. At first, I received friendly and welcoming responses. Then, when I mentioned I wanted to stay for two or three weeks—maybe even a month—explaining that my trip wouldn’t be strictly touristy but more of a pilgrimage to the places of my childhood, and that it would likely be a very emotional journey, I expected a positive and warm reaction to my approach. Instead, I suddenly stopped getting replies from the three or four people I’d contacted. So now I’m wondering about the reception former Pieds-Noirs can expect...

Anyone here who can share their experience of returning? I specified “recently” because it seems that right now, diplomatic relations between the two governments are extremely tense, not to say hostile... even if Macron claims otherwise...

Hello, I’m traveling to Algeria from October 27 to November 16, 2026. I’d love to hear from anyone who’s been through the process about the accommodation attestation required for the visa application: - Does it need to cover the entire duration of the trip? - Is this document mandatory for a hotel to rent a room? - Is it checked during inspections? - Is a hotel booking (e.g., via Booking.com) sufficient for the visa? - If so, does it need to be paid in advance?

I plan to visit several cities and do one or more treks with a guide or agency. If you have any contacts you’d recommend, I’d be grateful!

Also, I’d love to share this trip with a companion who’s already done some traveling. We’d organize the journey together, of course.

Thanks for your feedback! Safe travels to all, Dom, Dijon, 64 years old

Hi there,

I’m leaving for Tunisia in five weeks for a full 15-day trip. I’ll be arriving in Monastir and departing from there as well.

I’d like to do a route that’s a bit different from my first stay, which was more focused on cities and culture (Tunis, Sousse, Kairouan, El Jem).

I’ll be getting around by public transport.

I’d like to head south toward Tozeur, and I saw that you can take a *louage* from Monastir to Sbeitla (2h30). I imagine it’s not too complicated to get to Tozeur from there afterward? The issue is the return trip to Monastir and safety in Sbeitla.

If this route seems too complicated, I might opt for Djerba instead, which looks simpler.

Thanks in advance.

Hi, I'm looking for a taxi from Dakhla airport to downtown Dakhla. If you know a contact ?????

Hi there, I’m looking for info about driving a vehicle in Tunisia. Is it complicated? Do I need an international driver’s permit? Thanks for your help

Hi there,

I’m heading to Morocco in September 2026, and part of my trip takes me through Merzouga. I’m looking for a 4x4 driver-guide to explore the area with my partner and me.

Any recommendations?

Have a great day

It's all in the title. Thanks in advance

Hi everyone,

Even though I come to Morocco four times a year, it’s been a long time since I’ve made the trip by car. I need to refresh my knowledge! I’ll be traveling in early October. I have a car that’s about 20 years old. The plan is to cross via Algeciras/Ceuta.

A few questions:

1) Does this crossing still exist? If so, do I need to buy the ticket in advance or on the spot? From whom? Any advice is welcome!

2) What documents are required for the car?

3) If anyone is making the trip around the same time, it could be fun to drive together 😊

I know there are experts on this forum.

Thanks in advance

Hi there, I’m looking for some friendly recommendations for places to stay in Marrakech for 3 nights in June 2026. In the meantime, have a great day, everyone! Thanks so much in advance.

hi,

I’m planning to take the SETE-TANGER ferry with my car.

No agency in my town sells tickets.

Has anyone done this before and can point me in the right direction?

Thanks in advance.

have a good day