Hello everyone,

At the start of November, a bit of rest before winter will be perfect to kick off this travel journal. There aren’t many recent journals about this part of the world, so I’ll take the plunge—my way of celebrating the (unexpected) return of this forum, which has been such a big part of my life for over 15 years.

So, back to Asia at the end of 2023. After Myanmar in 2015 and Vietnam in 2018, we’ve chosen Laos this time. And when talking with friends (you know how it is—everyone asks, "So, where are you going this year?"), a couple of friends asked to join us ("You see, my wife dreams of a trip to Asia, and I dream of traveling like you, independently"). We’ve spent a week with them (and other friends) in Portugal, so we know they’re easygoing and flexible. They’ll only be with us after Christmas (due to lots of grandkids), so deal—we’re bringing them along! A new experience for us.

A new experience that’ll start with tweaking the itinerary. Originally, I planned to stay a month in Laos, but what could be more magical for my friend’s wife than discovering Asia by way of Angkor! Plus, our two daughters asked for some beach time at the end of the trip! So, it’ll be Laos and Cambodia—neither of which we’ve visited before, so no complaints there.

The route will be pretty classic, though a bit scattered to fit our dates and wishes. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP) to take some time to acclimate, then a few days in the northern Laos mountains, Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi. Back to LP for a direct flight to Pakse. Yes, I know—so many amazing places we’ll miss along the way, but as you know, choosing means letting go... From Pakse, I’m leaving a few days open (no bookings), but I’m eyeing Champassak and the 4,000 Islands. That’s where Mariel and Naty (our friends!) will join us on December 30th. I’ve tentatively added the Bolaven Plateau loop to the plan (still no bookings). Their Laos adventure will be short—by January 3rd, we’ll cross the border into Cambodia, heading straight to Siem Reap for 5 days. Then, I’ll fulfill my promise with a magical detour to Koh Rong Sanloem via a night bus (a must-do in Asia!). On to Phnom Penh for 2 days—where our trip ends, while Mariel and Naty will stop in Bangkok for 3 days before flying home.

So, fasten your seatbelts, flight attendants at the doors, and sorry for the long intro—here we go on this Asian adventure!

Here we go!!! I left home at 4 AM on October 31st and headed to Barcelona. Driving through Barcelona on the ring road stresses me out a bit, but at 6 AM the traffic is smooth, and I arrive at the airport without any issues. I call the valet, who quickly comes to pick up my car. He takes photos of it from all angles before letting me go.

Baggage check-in hasn’t started yet, and there are already several of us waiting.

Once free, everything happens very quickly. The flight to Abu Dhabi is on time and goes smoothly. I’ve never had any problems with this airline, which I’ve been using for several years.

The flight to Bangkok arrives at 7 AM as scheduled. This is my first time in Thailand and Bangkok. I’m used to traveling in India, and I notice that everything here is well organized—the customs process is quick, and the luggage is already on the carousel.

I booked a taxi on Booking. All I have to do is find the right exit and door based on the agency’s instructions. A large sign with the names of people who booked is posted on a wall. A hostess greets me and calls the taxi, which arrives 5 minutes later. I booked one night at the Lost Inn BKK hotel in the Phra Nakhon district, and we arrive at 9 AM. The welcome isn’t warm, and I have to wait until noon, sitting on a chair, before I can check into my room. I’m exhausted, and sleeping sitting up isn’t ideal. Noon finally arrives—the room is small but clean, which is fine for one night. I quickly take a shower to wake up because I plan to spend the afternoon visiting the Grand Palace. First, I need to exchange some money, and the banks are all close together on the same street, which is very convenient. When I enter one, a hostess gives me a ticket and invites me to sit down. There are about twenty counters, and I wait quietly until my number is called. The exchange is quick, so I can head out to find the Royal Palace. It’s actually very easy, and the walk is pleasant.

Entry to the Royal Palace (500 baht).



It’s magnificent and grand, and there are quite a few of us visiting. The sky is gray, it’s very humid, and a shower interrupts the visit. It’s a vast complex of temples and palaces. The buildings are colorful and sparkling, with a great sense of serenity (without the tourists, of course). I quietly enjoy the place and try to take photos without tourists, which isn’t easy.



Very close to the Grand Palace is Wat Pho, one of the oldest Buddhist temples in the capital.



It’s very famous for its 46-meter-long reclining Buddha statue.





Walking around the temple, you can see different representations of Buddha, all covered in gold leaf.



Inside the temple, on one side, monks recite their prayers, while the other side is reserved for tourists who come to meditate in silence.



Before returning to the hotel, I have dinner at an Indian restaurant. I go to bed early because tomorrow’s wake-up call will be very early again.

Saturday, November 2nd Wake-up at 4 AM, departure from the hotel at 4:30 AM. The taxi I booked via Booking is waiting for me and takes me to the airport. The trip is fairly quick—he takes small roads, and at this hour, there’s no traffic.

The flight to Phnom Penh is on time. Before boarding, I realize I left my fleece jacket on the carousel, but it’s too late to go back for it.

The flight goes well, and customs is quick.

At the exit, I take a tuk-tuk to Julieka’s GH near the museum. The welcome is friendly. I won’t be able to check into my room until noon, so I take the opportunity to exchange some euros on the market street. The street is lined with restaurants, and I’ll have my first meal there.

The museum is right across the street, so I don’t waste any time visiting it.



The representations of Hindu deities are very different from those in India, and I don’t recognize them. Many beautiful Buddhas are on display.



The museum is very pleasant, and there aren’t too many people, which is a plus.

At the exit, I return to the GH, settle into my room—which is decent and clean.

The Royal Palace is 1 km away. I walk along a garden, and at the end of the street is the Tonlé Sap, but I turn right. I arrive at a large esplanade and see the buildings with tiered roofs and glazed tiles. The entrance to the palace is a little further away.

At the entrance, I notice there isn’t the same crowd as at the one in BKK.

Khmer architecture is magnificent. The complex consists of gardens, palaces, pagodas with golden roofs, and slender spires.



The Silver Pagoda houses the small Emerald Buddha, which is actually made of jade. The silver flooring is covered with carpets. Photos are not allowed.

The walls surrounding the pagoda are covered with frescoes depicting scenes from the Ramayana.

Hi there! We’re leaving in early November for a month. Here’s our itinerary: Arrival in Takhmau, then heading to: Kampong Cham Kratie – 2 days Mondolkiri – 3 days Ratanakiri – 3 days Stung Treng – 1 day Siem Reap – 4 days Battambang – 1 day Kampong Chhnang – 3 days Kampot – 2 days Islands (WE’RE HESITATING WHICH ONE?) – 4 DAYS Phnom Penh – 2 days That’s it! 😊 We’re backpacking… and we love spots that aren’t too touristy. If you’ve got any tips, we’re all ears! Thanks

Hello! We’re heading to Cambodia for a month in March. We’re planning to visit Phnom Penh, Battambang, Siem Reap, the Angkor temples, Kompong Luong, then head down to Kampot, Kep, and finish our trip on the islands of Koh Rong. Has anyone done this trip recently? Any great spots to recommend? Neighborhoods to stay in Phnom Penh (lively but not too touristy)? Tips for getting around between the major cities—bus, train, boat, motorbike? Thanks for all the advice! Fabienne

Hi there,

We’re supposed to fly in four days—my partner, our two kids, and me—for a one-month trip to Cambodia. While applying for an e-visa, we just realized that both our passports won’t be valid for 6 months after our stay ends, which is a key requirement for getting a Cambodian visa. I don’t know how, but we totally missed this info!! Our tickets aren’t refundable, and we’ve booked several non-refundable hotels there too...

Has anyone been in this situation or have any ideas or solutions?

Thanks so much in advance!!!!

Hi,

I’m heading to Cambodia for a month in November. I’d like to visit the Mondulkiri and Ratanakiri regions on my trip. Could anyone give me some info about these areas? Transportation, trekking (is it tough?), and other tips. I’m looking to travel to non-touristy spots.

Thanks

I’d love to settle around Da Nang for about a month and explore the surrounding areas in Vietnam. I’ve already been to this country and don’t feel like rushing around every day like I used to a few years ago. I’d really like to find some company to stay for at least a month, and then maybe spend a month in Cambodia... Given that I’m now 76, I don’t want to run around like I used to, trying to see everything... I enjoy calm people... Those who love life and with whom I can share a beer... And meet people to create a great atmosphere—la dolce vita....

Hi everyone! 😊 I wanted to share Marie’s story with you—a traveler who chose cultural immersion as her way of discovering the world. In our conversation, she tells us about: ✔ Her 6-month volunteer experience in Cambodia ✔ Her solo trip through the Moroccan desert ✔ Her tips for learning local languages and interacting better with residents ✔ Why writing about your travel experiences is a great trick for remembering them 🎧 Listen to her story here, 📺 Watch on YouTube, or 📖 Read the summary here ➡️ 💬 Have you ever had an immersive travel experience? What are your tips for diving into a local culture and making authentic connections? #SoloTravel #TravelDifferently #ImmersiveTravel #NoirEnVoyage

The itinerary will be pretty classic, though a bit disjointed, to fit our dates and interests. For us, we’ll arrive in Luang Prabang (LP), where we’ll take some time to acclimate, then spend a few days in the northern Laos mountains—Nong Khiaw and Muang Ngoi.

Hi there,

We’re thinking of heading to Cambodia in August for two weeks with our three older kids (after considering Sri Lanka, Malaysia, etc.). We know it’s the rainy season, but the kids are a bit worried they won’t enjoy the trip. They’d love to end with two or three nights by the sea, but I’ve read that the weather can be even worse on the islands. For those who’ve visited Cambodia in August—would you still recommend it? Given that, apart from Thailand, we haven’t had the chance to take them on any long-haul trips yet... And with three young adults/older teens? Thanks in advance for your tips!

Hi there,

We’re heading to Southeast Asia for several months as a family with two teens (10 and 13). The first country we’re visiting is Cambodia. I’m having an issue with the e-visa—it won’t accept any of the documents I’m attaching. I’ve validated all four e-visas and received the registration numbers, but when I check the application, it shows no attachments. I’ve tried multiple times in different formats (PDF, JPEG, PNG), whether compressed or not, but there’s always a red cross next to the documents.

Has anyone else run into this problem?

Thanks for your help—I’m losing patience, and our departure is in 15 DAYS 😕

Magos

Hi there,

My trip starts on 09-11-2026 for 3 months of travel:

Bangkok Southern, Central, then Northern Thailand

I’ll cross into Laos by sea, then spend 4 weeks hiking, biking, sightseeing, and helping out locally.

Finally, I’ll head to Cambodia for another 4 weeks of hiking, biking, sightseeing, and local volunteering before flying back to CDG.

I’ll also be doing local activities like yoga and meditation, etc...

Hi there... I’m traveling with a friend for a month in November. We booked our round-trip tickets from Paris to Phnom Penh, and yes, I know—it was a mistake. We should’ve flown out of Laos, but here we are. But is it doable to backpack through both countries in a relaxed way? I’ve seen that the transport takes a while... Thanks so much for your replies.

Hello, Looking for a travel partner for a trip of at least 2 months, up to 3 months possible. Departure from PARIS on January 27th, one-way flight to HANOI, VIETNAM. Then by train and minibus (I’ve already done the route up to) SAPA (rice terrace ethnic region), then DIEN BIEN PHU, crossing the border to northern LAOS, MUANG KHUA by local boats for about 300 km with stops in MUANG NGOI, NONG KIAW, then continuing on the MEKONG to arrive by boat in LOUANG PRABANG. Stop durations in towns depend on the sights to visit. “If it’s good, we extend; if we’re done, we move on.” The rest by bus, train, and boat: VANG VIENG, VIENTIANE, THAKHET, SAVANNAKHET, PAKSE, CHAMPASSAK. Crossing into Cambodia: KRATIE, PHNOM PENH, KAMPONG KHLEANG (floating and stilt village), SIEM REAP (Angkor). Crossing into Thailand at POIPET (I’ve already spent a month in Thailand). BAN PHE by boat to KO SAMET (white sand, cocktails). Return via BANGKOK. Flight PARIS-HANOI and return BANGKOK-PARIS around 800 €. This is a flexible outline, but I’ve thoroughly researched this trip—the sights to see, charming little hotels with nice settings when possible, even the bars and restaurants are marked on my phone. Budget-wise, it’s not as expensive as you might think. I’m not looking for luxury, just authenticity: cheap little hotels, same for food. I’m 67 years old, have an international driver’s license for cars and motorcycles, and am well-experienced with this kind of road trip. I’m waiting to book my flight (as soon as possible) in case I get a response to travel together or meet up in Hanoi. Possible to go as far as VIENTIANE. My only requirements are: A small backpack, max 5 kg, to move around easily (for moto-taxis, no checked luggage on planes or buses), and absolutely no rolling suitcases (train station sidewalks when looking for a hotel). Also, enjoy walking (I walk a lot to explore)—it can go up to 10 km spread over the day. I’m open to 1 or 2 women who want to “feel secure” or try the 5 kg challenge (I’ve had several female travel partners who survived). I also adapt to vegan travelers. Don’t hesitate to contact me. Bruno.

Hi, We’re traveling to Vietnam (the delta), Cambodia, and Laos as a group of four for two months. We’re looking for info on how to get around by car with a driver in these countries. Specifically: How much does it cost in these different countries based on distance? Where can we find these cars with drivers? Thanks for your tips, Miguel

Hi everyone, I’m starting to plan my next trip to Southeast Asia this winter (2.5 months, leaving in early December), and here’s a rough outline of my route—I’d love to share it with you and hear your thoughts and tips.

- I’ll start in Bangkok and already have three spots I’ve marked: Ayutthaya, Kanchanaburi, and Uthai Thani (I haven’t been to any of these places yet). - Next, I’d like to cross the country from west to east to reach the Laos border. I’d love suggestions for any interesting stops along this route—I don’t know this part of Thailand at all... - Then I’ll head into Laos, probably at Savannakhet (you can usually get a visa at the border). - > I’m tempted to spend a week in Hoi An, Vietnam, since I loved that city and the area when I visited two years ago. No visa needed for Vietnam now, so it could be a nice little detour. On the map, it doesn’t look too far, but I know you’ve got to be careful with these things, and I’m not sure if it’s a good idea. Any opinions on this? - Back to Laos (maybe via Dakta), and I’ll head south along the Mekong, probably doing the Bolaven Plateau loop that I missed last time. Then Paksé, the 4,000 Islands... I’ve been before, but I’d happily go back. - Crossing into Cambodia, I’ll follow the Mekong down to Phnom Penh (I know this area and love how untouristy it is). From there, I’ll probably spend a few days in Kep (quieter than Kampot). Still undecided, though. - Then back to Thailand (BKK), likely by plane from Phnom Penh since the borders between the two countries are currently closed (plus, let’s be honest, Cambodian roads... ;-). We’ll see how things look when the time comes. - After that, I’d like to explore southern Thailand, taking it slow with short hops. I’ve got my eye on Khao Sok National Park, and I’ve heard good things about Krabi... Again, I don’t know this region well, so any info or tips would be great.

So, I think this should be doable in 2.5 months, especially since I prefer short hops of 300 km max to avoid getting too tired, and I like staying 2-3 days in each place to explore. Plus, I’ll take a week off to relax if I find a spot I love—maybe by the sea for some real downtime.

Thanks for your feedback and for sharing your favorite spots! Pascal

Hi there, I’m heading to Vietnam for 10 days, from Hanoi to Ho Chi Minh City, and then spending 5 days in Cambodia (Siem Reap). Which SIM card or operator would you recommend? Thanks for your help!

hi there since the forum is back up, let’s try to gather some updated info. first off, arrival formalities are changing—starting January 1st, you’ll need to fill out an electronic form before arrival. This replaces the paperwork you used to fill out on the plane or at the airport (for air arrivals). Here’s the link: https://www.arrival.gov.kh/. for visas, the same options remain: e-visa, visa on arrival, or visa at the embassy. The standard price is $30 on arrival, but at land borders, be prepared for a small "extra" for "cigarettes or coffee." don’t forget your passport must be valid for at least 6 months after your return. regarding airlines, prices are pretty high for carriers like Singapore, Qatar, Emirates, Vietnam Airlines, and Thai. EVA Air is a great Taiwanese airline with slightly lower fares, but ongoing pressure from mainland China and quasi-blockades could cause delays or issues—something to watch. there are cheaper Chinese airlines, but friends from China advise being cautious with connections. Worth double-checking. transport is evolving too—there’s now a highway from Phnom Penh to Kampot. Soraya, a well-known bus company, has disappeared. More highway projects are in the works. Buildings are popping up fast, just mentioning this for those who haven’t been to Cambodia in a while.

Does it seem feasible and reasonable to travel to Laos (or Cambodia) as early as January or February 2025? I don’t have any precise information about the damage these countries have suffered.

Hi, is it possible to get to Ko Kut from Kaoh Kong or Khlong Yai without going back up to Trat and transiting via Ko Chang? Thanks for your replies

Hi there, I’m heading off for 3 weeks around 15–20/11/2025 to Laos and then Cambodia (I’ve already done Vietnam, Thailand, Malaysia… so the countries won’t change 😄). I’ve already got a rough itinerary in mind (the must-sees), including a land border crossing between the two countries after the 4000 Islands. I’m used to traveling light with a backpack, no stress, and I love walking/hiking. If anyone fancies joining me, feel free to reply! !

Hello, We’re planning to travel at the beginning of 2026 (a couple) to visit these two countries (Laos and Cambodia). We’re looking for local travel agencies to organize our trip with a driver and vehicle. For accommodation, staying with locals suits us just fine. If any seasoned travelers have reliable recommendations, we’d love to hear them. Thanks! Best regards, Lionel 1946

Hi,

In Phnom Penh, a new international airport called Techo (code KTI), located about thirty kilometers south of the city, is set to open this year and will replace the current one (code PNH). From this new airport*, flights are already scheduled starting in September to Bangkok, Ho Chi Minh City, Hanoi, Chongqing, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Xiamen, and Fuzhou (not all daily).

* Located here: 11° 21′ 46.5″ N, 104° 54′ 59.8″ E A newly built highway spur from National Road 2 will lead there.

I really loved Thailand, but it was too touristy for my taste. So I'm hesitating about going back and wondering if Cambodia or Vietnam would be less crowded with tourists...

Hi,

I applied for an e-visa on January 8th and still haven’t received a response as of January 17th, even though the advertised processing time is three days. Anyone else experiencing these unusual delays? Can we file a complaint? Thanks in advance for your replies. Best regards.

Hi there,

This will be my first trip to Thailand, which will be the first stop on my Asian journey. This time, I’d like to leave with a one-way ticket so I can return to France from the last country I visit.

First and foremost, I’d like to confirm whether it’s possible to get a VOA (Visa on Arrival) when I land in Thailand without any prior steps? Is proof of onward travel (like a return ticket) required to get this visa?

If so, does it have to be a round-trip ticket from the country I’m arriving from, or can I use a flight or train ticket from Thailand to a neighboring country as proof of exit?

For Cambodia and Vietnam, is it also possible to get a VOA on the spot?

I’d also love any tips or important info you think might be useful about Thailand, Cambodia, and Vietnam—my planned destinations—especially regarding accommodation, transportation, points of interest, and, of course, any personal advice or experiences you’d like to share!

Thanks so much to everyone, and I wish you all an amazing 2025 filled with health, travel, and discoveries! !

We’ll be in Siem Reap this coming January and I’m struggling to find a competent French-speaking guide to help us understand and explore the Angkor temples. Anyone have a contact to share?

hi everyone. in the next few days I’m moving to live in Cambodia and I’d like to know if we can get French channels from there with a satellite dish or a cable subscription—is it possible or should I forget about it? thanks for your replies! :)

we have flights with Swiss and Lufthansa for January; our flights are still in our booking file. But after reading that the Cambodian ambassador in Paris advised against transiting through Bangkok (which is our case), I reached out to the airlines to potentially change our ticket via Singapore. However, both companies have canceled all flights to Cambodia, regardless of the day or airport. We’ll have our contact on the ground call us on Monday to figure out what to do, especially since no insurance covers war, conflict, etc. If anyone else is in the same situation with an upcoming departure, we can exchange tips

Hi everyone, We’re planning to return to Cambodia in July 2026, as a family, for the third time. Since we’ve already visited Siem Reap and Battambang, we’re not considering going back this time. Instead, we’d like to travel more slowly and take the time to settle in. We’re thinking of an itinerary around Mondulkiri, Kampot, and Koh Kong (Tatai waterfalls, mangroves, etc.). For those who know the Koh Kong province and Mondulkiri well: are these areas still accessible and enjoyable during the rainy season? We’d also like to spend 2 or 3 days on an island, but we’re not sure if it’s really feasible at this time of year (sea conditions, boat crossings…). If it’s doable, which one would you recommend? We’re planning to spend only a short time in Phnom Penh, then a few days with family near Koh Thom. If you have any other ideas, firsthand experiences, or suggestions for stops that work well for a trip in July, we’d love to hear them. Thanks in advance !