Fellow travelers,
Don’t they say "never two without three"? It seems so. Here I am again on the forum to share—and let’s be honest, indulge a bit of selfish pleasure—by recounting the story of this third installment in the Land of the Rising Sun.
Where? It’s all in the title. On the island of Kyushu in southern Japan, more precisely in the northwest between Fukuoka and Nagasaki. I hope to take you along with me for 19 nights and 18 full days this autumn of 2024. On the itinerary: gastronomy, crafts, festivals, waterfalls, encounters, and leisurely strolls in all simplicity.
A last-minute flight booked just 7 days before departure, and the route evolved regularly based on whims and accommodation availability, eventually settling on this:
- 5 nights in Fukuoka: Fukuoka city, Ukiha, Itoshima, Dazaifu, Yanagawa
- 4 nights in Hasami, Nagasaki Prefecture: Okawachiyama, Arita, Takeo, Kashima, Yobuko, Karatsu, Kabeshima
- 6 nights in Nagasaki: Ureshino, Higashi-Sonogi, Nagasaki city, Unzen, Sotome
- 4 nights in Fukuoka: Karatsu, Fukuoka city
Most of the trip was done by car for practical reasons—easier access to certain places and freedom of movement—but also for the sheer joy of it. Despite slow traffic at times, driving in rural Japan is a delight.
If the program interests you, see you soon for the start of the journey.
25 similar discussions in English
Hi everyone,
The idea of visiting Japan goes back a year now. I remember because I was looking for cheap flights to Europe from Paris. Surprisingly, the round-trip to Japan with Air China was just as affordable—if not cheaper—than many European destinations.
So, the tickets were booked. Three seats (including one for a 12-year-old), ten days over Easter 2018, AirBnB accommodation. Of course, in ten days, you visit without *really* visiting—you only scratch the surface. Just the classics: Kyoto, temples, moonlit rivers; the Shinkansen; and Tokyo, gardens, wandering, high-tech, and... maids.
I have to admit, we don’t know much about the country, and the thought of how we’d manage is a constant source of worry. What if this trip reveals my inability to open up to other cultures?
We board the first Air China flight with that question on our minds.
The idea of visiting Japan goes back a year now. I remember because I was looking for cheap flights to Europe from Paris. Surprisingly, the round-trip to Japan with Air China was just as affordable—if not cheaper—than many European destinations.
So, the tickets were booked. Three seats (including one for a 12-year-old), ten days over Easter 2018, AirBnB accommodation. Of course, in ten days, you visit without *really* visiting—you only scratch the surface. Just the classics: Kyoto, temples, moonlit rivers; the Shinkansen; and Tokyo, gardens, wandering, high-tech, and... maids.
I have to admit, we don’t know much about the country, and the thought of how we’d manage is a constant source of worry. What if this trip reveals my inability to open up to other cultures?
We board the first Air China flight with that question on our minds.
Hi, I'd like to know—I'm planning to go to Taiwan and would like to make a stop in China, then another stop in China on my way back from Taiwan.
In total, I'd stay less than 30 cumulative days in China, but would I still be allowed to return after coming back from Taiwan (while still benefiting from the visa exemption)?
Thanks! ^^
In total, I'd stay less than 30 cumulative days in China, but would I still be allowed to return after coming back from Taiwan (while still benefiting from the visa exemption)?
Thanks! ^^
Hi everyone, I’m Patrick, 67 years old, a seasoned traveler (already 22 trips outside Europe).
In autumn 2025, I took my first 3-week trip to Japan, with stops in Tokyo, Kamakura, Matsumoto, Kamikochi, Takayama, Kanazawa, Kyoto, Nara, Osaka, Koyasan, Tokyo again, and Nikko.
I wanted to go back in May 2026 and explore some lesser-known places to complement my first trip.
Last year, there were four of us traveling together to discover Japan (a fairly classic itinerary). This time, I’ll be traveling solo for part of the trip and with a couple of French friends for the rest.
The weather was gorgeous in May, averaging around 25°C, with two very hot days in Kyoto and only two rainy days.
As usual, I organized everything myself, gathering plenty of information from various sites, including this one.
Transportation: An ICOCA card is essential. I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations: Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals: For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés. For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen. Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima. Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima. A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto. Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi). Tempura and gyoza. Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal. One omakase meal (9 different dishes). In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef. Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary: Day 1: Departure from Brussels Day 2: Arrival in Osaka Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade Day 8: To Miyajima Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto Day 10: Southern Kyoto Day 11: Northern Kyoto Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago) Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima) Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko) Day 17: To Tokyo Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Transportation: An ICOCA card is essential. I got a 5-day Kansai-Hiroshima pass because I took the shinkansen between Hiroshima and Osaka three times, and it paid for itself quickly.
Accommodations: Mostly through Booking. No issues at all. Average cost was 46 € per night.
Meals: For breakfast, I alternated between buying food at a konbini to eat in my room or on the train and grabbing something at local cafés. For lunch and dinner, I tried to vary my meals as much as possible—lots of sashimi, sushi, and ramen. Okonomiyaki in Osaka and Hiroshima. Oysters in every form (raw, grilled, fried) in Onomichi and Hiroshima. A variety of seafood (shrimp, shellfish) in Hiroshima and Matsumoto. Fish whose names often escaped me, but notably mackerel and eel (unagi). Tempura and gyoza. Chicken skewers (yakitori) and one teppanyaki meal. One omakase meal (9 different dishes). In the end, not much meat aside from a few yakitori skewers. No splurges on super expensive wagyu or Kobe beef. Average dinner cost: 4,800 yen, drinks included.
The Itinerary: Day 1: Departure from Brussels Day 2: Arrival in Osaka Day 3: To Himeji, then Kurashiki Day 4: To Fukuyama, then Tomo no Ura, then Onomichi Day 5: Cycling the Shimanami Kaido Day 6: To Takahara, then Hiroshima Day 7: To Kyoto to attend the Aoi Matsuri parade Day 8: To Miyajima Day 9: Hiroshima, then Kyoto Day 10: Southern Kyoto Day 11: Northern Kyoto Day 12: Final day in Kyoto, then to Nagatsugawa Day 13: Start of the Nakasendo Trail (Magome to Tsumago) Day 14: Second day of the trail (Kiso Fukushima) Day 15: Third day of the trail (Narai), then Matsumoto Day 16: To Mt. Fuji (Kawaguchiko) Day 17: To Tokyo Day 18: Excursion to Enoshima and Kamakura Day 19: Flight home, with a 10-hour layover in Hong Kong Day 20: Arrival in Brussels
Hello forum,
Did any of you feel the same things we did in China?
We spent a good twenty days there in August. First, we traveled solo around Chengdu, then joined an organized tour for 12 days (Beijing, Pingyao, Xi'an, Guilin, Xingping, Yangshuo, Shanghai, Wuzhen) and extended our stay by 4 extra days to visit Zhangjiajie.
The landscapes were stunning, and we have unforgettable memories... but we were really disappointed by the following points:
- The food: way too spicy. Lacking in flavor, not much taste. I’m speaking "in general" because we did enjoy some good steamed dumplings, smoked pork, and other dumplings... But compared to Thailand, Cambodia, or India, Chinese cuisine didn’t impress us at all.
- The behavior of the Chinese: disrespectful, rushed, agitated. You constantly have to fight—people push, crowd, and overwhelm you... At the entrance to the Terracotta Army (and other sites), it’s a human tidal wave... and I mean that literally. We were carried by the crowd without even touching the ground. It was like a situation where you have one bowl of rice and 20,000 starving people diving for it...
You’re at a ticket counter, and they cut in front of you. You’re in line for boarding, suitcase ready to go on the conveyor belt, and someone shows up out of nowhere to put THEIR suitcase down... even though they have a flight ticket with THEIR seat number and won’t be leaving before you!!!! You’re getting on the bus, and someone shoves past you just so they don’t end up behind you.
It’s like these people only think about themselves. I didn’t see a single person let someone else go first or even ask—it’s as if politeness and respect are completely foreign to them.
It’s honestly exhausting and draining...
- Communication: In every other country we’ve visited, whether in Asia or Europe, we always manage—with English, a few words of Italian, French, or Spanish. In China, I’ll be blunt: if you don’t speak Chinese, you’re screwed. And yet, a pair of kids around ten or twelve years old asked us in English where we were from :)
- Understanding: Here’s the rule. Even if the person you’re talking to speaks a little English and says they understand you... make sure they *really* do, because 9 times out of 10, they don’t. Out of pride or just cluelessness, they’ll give you a big smile and nod, but in reality, they didn’t get what you were saying.
Several times with our group, in the evening at a restaurant, if we hadn’t been helped by someone at another table who spoke a little English, we’d still be there. The classic example: the waiter brings one menu (for 10 people at the table), and we’re all trying to explain that we need 4 or more menus. Five minutes later, he’s still staring at us with that same blank smile...
In 3* or 4* hotels, you go to the front desk for a hot water or AC issue. Three or four staff members just stand there beaming at you. You try to explain with photos or a translator, but in the end, you leave with the problem unresolved.
They don’t speak—they shout... on buses, in hotels...
We were also surprised to find that self-service laundromats were almost nonexistent. We got scammed once at a hotel with an astronomical bill!
As for flights, we flew Air China on the way there and Austrian Airlines on the way back—no comparison. Air China had zero service and food that was "baby food" quality. Austrian Airlines had multiple services, a decent meal, and smiling flight attendants.
I don’t know if any of you had the same experience in this country, but I’m definitely not eager to go back. Whereas if someone offered me India, Thailand, or Vietnam tomorrow, I’d be there in a heartbeat!!!
Did any of you feel the same things we did in China?
We spent a good twenty days there in August. First, we traveled solo around Chengdu, then joined an organized tour for 12 days (Beijing, Pingyao, Xi'an, Guilin, Xingping, Yangshuo, Shanghai, Wuzhen) and extended our stay by 4 extra days to visit Zhangjiajie.
The landscapes were stunning, and we have unforgettable memories... but we were really disappointed by the following points:
- The food: way too spicy. Lacking in flavor, not much taste. I’m speaking "in general" because we did enjoy some good steamed dumplings, smoked pork, and other dumplings... But compared to Thailand, Cambodia, or India, Chinese cuisine didn’t impress us at all.
- The behavior of the Chinese: disrespectful, rushed, agitated. You constantly have to fight—people push, crowd, and overwhelm you... At the entrance to the Terracotta Army (and other sites), it’s a human tidal wave... and I mean that literally. We were carried by the crowd without even touching the ground. It was like a situation where you have one bowl of rice and 20,000 starving people diving for it...
You’re at a ticket counter, and they cut in front of you. You’re in line for boarding, suitcase ready to go on the conveyor belt, and someone shows up out of nowhere to put THEIR suitcase down... even though they have a flight ticket with THEIR seat number and won’t be leaving before you!!!! You’re getting on the bus, and someone shoves past you just so they don’t end up behind you.
It’s like these people only think about themselves. I didn’t see a single person let someone else go first or even ask—it’s as if politeness and respect are completely foreign to them.
It’s honestly exhausting and draining...
- Communication: In every other country we’ve visited, whether in Asia or Europe, we always manage—with English, a few words of Italian, French, or Spanish. In China, I’ll be blunt: if you don’t speak Chinese, you’re screwed. And yet, a pair of kids around ten or twelve years old asked us in English where we were from :)
- Understanding: Here’s the rule. Even if the person you’re talking to speaks a little English and says they understand you... make sure they *really* do, because 9 times out of 10, they don’t. Out of pride or just cluelessness, they’ll give you a big smile and nod, but in reality, they didn’t get what you were saying.
Several times with our group, in the evening at a restaurant, if we hadn’t been helped by someone at another table who spoke a little English, we’d still be there. The classic example: the waiter brings one menu (for 10 people at the table), and we’re all trying to explain that we need 4 or more menus. Five minutes later, he’s still staring at us with that same blank smile...
In 3* or 4* hotels, you go to the front desk for a hot water or AC issue. Three or four staff members just stand there beaming at you. You try to explain with photos or a translator, but in the end, you leave with the problem unresolved.
They don’t speak—they shout... on buses, in hotels...
We were also surprised to find that self-service laundromats were almost nonexistent. We got scammed once at a hotel with an astronomical bill!
As for flights, we flew Air China on the way there and Austrian Airlines on the way back—no comparison. Air China had zero service and food that was "baby food" quality. Austrian Airlines had multiple services, a decent meal, and smiling flight attendants.
I don’t know if any of you had the same experience in this country, but I’m definitely not eager to go back. Whereas if someone offered me India, Thailand, or Vietnam tomorrow, I’d be there in a heartbeat!!!
Hi everyone,
Actually, we ended up going to Japan almost by chance. I’d caught glimpses of the country during business trips, and it had been on my “wish list” for a while, but I thought we’d go “when the kids were grown up.”
But this summer (2016), the kids couldn’t agree on a destination—their wishes were completely opposite. Then, realizing that flight tickets weren’t outrageously priced—and having read that Japan wasn’t as expensive as people think—we, the parents, suggested Japan… while warning that it would be scorching hot and humid and that no one should complain. Our eldest (18) was immediately thrilled: “Oh! Mom! I’ve always dreamed of going to Japan!” She convinced her brother (16) that it was the perfect destination. Deal sealed: we’re going to Japan, but no one complains about the heat.
After some forum discussions and family brainstorming, I settled on the following itinerary. One non-negotiable shaped part of our choices: being in Hiroshima on August 6th to attend the lantern floating ceremony. To avoid overloading the trip with extra transport, we skipped Nara, Nikko, and Kamakura.
Day 1 - Arrival at 8:30 AM in Osaka – Kyoto - around the station Day 2 - Kyoto - East - night: Kyoto Day 3 - Kyoto - North and center - night: Kyoto Day 4 - Osaka (stroll with Osaka Safari) - Fushimi Inari -night : Kyoto Day 5 - Train - Naoshima - night: Uno Day 6 - Teshima -night: Uno Day 7 - Naoshima – Hiroshima - night: Hiroshima Day 8 - Hiroshima – Commemorations - night: Hiroshima Day 10 - Miyajima- night: Miyajima Day 10 - Miyajima - Himeji Castle - night: Osaka Day 11 - Osaka - night: Osaka Day 12 - Kyoto - West -night: Osaka Day 13 - Kanazawa to Ainokura - night: Ainokura Day 14 - Shirakawa-go - Takayama - night: Takayama Day 15 - Kamikochi night: Takayama Day 16 - Takayama - return to Kanazawa night: Kanazawa Day 17 - Kanazawa -night: Kanazawa Day 18 - Travel to Tokyo (Shibuya) -night: Tokyo Day 19 - Tokyo (visit with Tokyo Free Guide – Yoyogi Park - Meiji Shrine - Harajuku - Takeshita-dori - Omote Sando - Odaiba) - night: Tokyo Day 20 - Tokyo (with Tokyo Safari) - night: Tokyo Day 21 - Tokyo (Tsukiji, Hama-Rikyu Onshi Teien, Asakusa and Senso-ji, Kappabashi, Ameyoko, and Ueno) - night: Tokyo Day 22 - Tokyo (Shibuya-Yoyogi Park again - Ikebukuro - Shinjuku (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Omoide-yokocho, Golden Gai) - night: Tokyo Day 23 - Tokyo (Yanaka – Ueno – Edo-Tokyo Museum - Takashita-Dori again - back to Shibuya) - departure at 10:50 PM for Paris
(You can access the published days directly by clicking on them).
The itinerary perfectly matched our expectations: a good pace, a wide variety of visits, the must-sees, but also a first taste of rural Japan. If we were to do it again, I’d do exactly the same (except for the back-and-forth between Kyoto and Osaka on Days 4 and 12, which were due to my desire to explore Osaka with Osaka Safari). Of course, we had to skip some sights, especially in Kyoto where we missed a few “highlights,” but that was a deliberate choice—I’d limited our time in the city, which is known for being stifling in summer.
For accommodations, we mixed Airbnb apartments and quadruple rooms in guesthouses and ryokan. It worked out perfectly. The apartments gave us more space and the chance to dine in some evenings, while the guesthouses and ryokan helped us experience Japanese customs.
First, a quick recap: all four of us were enchanted by our trip. Japan is a constant source of wonder, just like the preface of *Tokyo Sanpo* by Florent Chavouet describes—I’ll take this opportunity to plug the book, which I read with great pleasure after our vacation. That’s exactly it: everything is a reason for amazement. Everything is so different from home. I wanted to photograph everything around me constantly. I promise, I won’t say “photograph like a Japanese” anymore—during this trip, *I* was the Japanese. And I better understand the culture shock Japanese travelers experience in Europe.
As a friend of mine put it: “It’s simple—they have ten fingers, so they count in base 10. Otherwise, they do everything differently from us.” Well summarized.
Another thing: everything is easy. Everything seems to have its place and be exactly where it should be. The smallest detail seems to have been thought out to make life easier. Things that come to mind: the incredibly well-designed signage in train stations and the subway, the ubiquitous public toilets, designated smoking areas, those hyper-detailed maps with all the useful information available at every place we visited… These maps are so well done that we got into the habit of picking them up systematically. It’s that simple: I came back to Paris with a complete collection. And when we arrived in Takayama by car, our first stop was at the train station to get THE map. But this order goes beyond all these practical elements. There’s a certain *je ne sais quoi* that makes you feel like everything is exactly where it should be. Even during rush hour, in the crowds, people manage to avoid each other in a smooth, collision-free flow—the opposite of the Paris metro. Anyone who’s experienced certain transfers in Paris at certain times will understand.
The exquisite politeness of the Japanese and their desire to be helpful are another highlight of the trip. Every person we met tried to help us and make our lives easier. It was really great.
Oh! I almost forgot: Japan’s hyper-safe side. I’ve rarely felt as safe as I did in Japan. No need to keep an eye on your belongings—they’re not going anywhere. One example among many: in Tokyo, Japanese women leave their bags open with their smartphones casually placed on top. Even I could’ve taken them without them noticing, let alone a pickpocket… No wonder France is seen as dangerous.
That said, I’m not claiming Japanese society is flawless. The role of women and gender relations are downright shocking and archaic from our European perspective. I also don’t think I could live in such a codified society, where the individual is so dissolved into the collective. But for a vacation, it’s simply delightful. On that note, I recommend *Nââânde?!* by Eriko Nakamura, which I discovered after our trip on the recommendation of our eldest’s friend. It’s the story of a Japanese woman married to a Frenchman living in Paris, recounting her astonishment at French habits and customs. Even though I tried to be careful, I’m sure I made quite a few blunders.
As for the climate, it didn’t stop us from enjoying our trip. Sure, we were hot—*really* hot—but by protecting ourselves from the sun (hat for me, caps for the others, plus umbrellas—Japanese-style parasols) and drinking liters and liters of water, it was manageable and didn’t bother us too much, even if we probably had a slower pace than we would’ve with milder weather. That said, with small children, we would’ve struggled more.
Last point before diving into the trip details: the cost. Despite what I’d read, traveling in Japan is still expensive. I’m not talking about our specific trip, where—using our daughter’s 18th birthday and our 20th wedding anniversary as an excuse—I splurged on a few extras that drove up the cost. I was particularly surprised by the price of quadruple rooms, which is roughly the same as two double rooms. So for a family, that’s a significant extra cost. The various paid sites in Kyoto also add up. As for food, it’s generally cheap, but it would be a shame not to budget for a few extras to try some less affordable specialties—like Hida beef in our case.
Actually, we ended up going to Japan almost by chance. I’d caught glimpses of the country during business trips, and it had been on my “wish list” for a while, but I thought we’d go “when the kids were grown up.”
But this summer (2016), the kids couldn’t agree on a destination—their wishes were completely opposite. Then, realizing that flight tickets weren’t outrageously priced—and having read that Japan wasn’t as expensive as people think—we, the parents, suggested Japan… while warning that it would be scorching hot and humid and that no one should complain. Our eldest (18) was immediately thrilled: “Oh! Mom! I’ve always dreamed of going to Japan!” She convinced her brother (16) that it was the perfect destination. Deal sealed: we’re going to Japan, but no one complains about the heat.
After some forum discussions and family brainstorming, I settled on the following itinerary. One non-negotiable shaped part of our choices: being in Hiroshima on August 6th to attend the lantern floating ceremony. To avoid overloading the trip with extra transport, we skipped Nara, Nikko, and Kamakura.
Day 1 - Arrival at 8:30 AM in Osaka – Kyoto - around the station Day 2 - Kyoto - East - night: Kyoto Day 3 - Kyoto - North and center - night: Kyoto Day 4 - Osaka (stroll with Osaka Safari) - Fushimi Inari -night : Kyoto Day 5 - Train - Naoshima - night: Uno Day 6 - Teshima -night: Uno Day 7 - Naoshima – Hiroshima - night: Hiroshima Day 8 - Hiroshima – Commemorations - night: Hiroshima Day 10 - Miyajima- night: Miyajima Day 10 - Miyajima - Himeji Castle - night: Osaka Day 11 - Osaka - night: Osaka Day 12 - Kyoto - West -night: Osaka Day 13 - Kanazawa to Ainokura - night: Ainokura Day 14 - Shirakawa-go - Takayama - night: Takayama Day 15 - Kamikochi night: Takayama Day 16 - Takayama - return to Kanazawa night: Kanazawa Day 17 - Kanazawa -night: Kanazawa Day 18 - Travel to Tokyo (Shibuya) -night: Tokyo Day 19 - Tokyo (visit with Tokyo Free Guide – Yoyogi Park - Meiji Shrine - Harajuku - Takeshita-dori - Omote Sando - Odaiba) - night: Tokyo Day 20 - Tokyo (with Tokyo Safari) - night: Tokyo Day 21 - Tokyo (Tsukiji, Hama-Rikyu Onshi Teien, Asakusa and Senso-ji, Kappabashi, Ameyoko, and Ueno) - night: Tokyo Day 22 - Tokyo (Shibuya-Yoyogi Park again - Ikebukuro - Shinjuku (Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, Omoide-yokocho, Golden Gai) - night: Tokyo Day 23 - Tokyo (Yanaka – Ueno – Edo-Tokyo Museum - Takashita-Dori again - back to Shibuya) - departure at 10:50 PM for Paris
(You can access the published days directly by clicking on them).
The itinerary perfectly matched our expectations: a good pace, a wide variety of visits, the must-sees, but also a first taste of rural Japan. If we were to do it again, I’d do exactly the same (except for the back-and-forth between Kyoto and Osaka on Days 4 and 12, which were due to my desire to explore Osaka with Osaka Safari). Of course, we had to skip some sights, especially in Kyoto where we missed a few “highlights,” but that was a deliberate choice—I’d limited our time in the city, which is known for being stifling in summer.
For accommodations, we mixed Airbnb apartments and quadruple rooms in guesthouses and ryokan. It worked out perfectly. The apartments gave us more space and the chance to dine in some evenings, while the guesthouses and ryokan helped us experience Japanese customs.
First, a quick recap: all four of us were enchanted by our trip. Japan is a constant source of wonder, just like the preface of *Tokyo Sanpo* by Florent Chavouet describes—I’ll take this opportunity to plug the book, which I read with great pleasure after our vacation. That’s exactly it: everything is a reason for amazement. Everything is so different from home. I wanted to photograph everything around me constantly. I promise, I won’t say “photograph like a Japanese” anymore—during this trip, *I* was the Japanese. And I better understand the culture shock Japanese travelers experience in Europe.
As a friend of mine put it: “It’s simple—they have ten fingers, so they count in base 10. Otherwise, they do everything differently from us.” Well summarized.
Another thing: everything is easy. Everything seems to have its place and be exactly where it should be. The smallest detail seems to have been thought out to make life easier. Things that come to mind: the incredibly well-designed signage in train stations and the subway, the ubiquitous public toilets, designated smoking areas, those hyper-detailed maps with all the useful information available at every place we visited… These maps are so well done that we got into the habit of picking them up systematically. It’s that simple: I came back to Paris with a complete collection. And when we arrived in Takayama by car, our first stop was at the train station to get THE map. But this order goes beyond all these practical elements. There’s a certain *je ne sais quoi* that makes you feel like everything is exactly where it should be. Even during rush hour, in the crowds, people manage to avoid each other in a smooth, collision-free flow—the opposite of the Paris metro. Anyone who’s experienced certain transfers in Paris at certain times will understand.
The exquisite politeness of the Japanese and their desire to be helpful are another highlight of the trip. Every person we met tried to help us and make our lives easier. It was really great.
Oh! I almost forgot: Japan’s hyper-safe side. I’ve rarely felt as safe as I did in Japan. No need to keep an eye on your belongings—they’re not going anywhere. One example among many: in Tokyo, Japanese women leave their bags open with their smartphones casually placed on top. Even I could’ve taken them without them noticing, let alone a pickpocket… No wonder France is seen as dangerous.
That said, I’m not claiming Japanese society is flawless. The role of women and gender relations are downright shocking and archaic from our European perspective. I also don’t think I could live in such a codified society, where the individual is so dissolved into the collective. But for a vacation, it’s simply delightful. On that note, I recommend *Nââânde?!* by Eriko Nakamura, which I discovered after our trip on the recommendation of our eldest’s friend. It’s the story of a Japanese woman married to a Frenchman living in Paris, recounting her astonishment at French habits and customs. Even though I tried to be careful, I’m sure I made quite a few blunders.
As for the climate, it didn’t stop us from enjoying our trip. Sure, we were hot—*really* hot—but by protecting ourselves from the sun (hat for me, caps for the others, plus umbrellas—Japanese-style parasols) and drinking liters and liters of water, it was manageable and didn’t bother us too much, even if we probably had a slower pace than we would’ve with milder weather. That said, with small children, we would’ve struggled more.
Last point before diving into the trip details: the cost. Despite what I’d read, traveling in Japan is still expensive. I’m not talking about our specific trip, where—using our daughter’s 18th birthday and our 20th wedding anniversary as an excuse—I splurged on a few extras that drove up the cost. I was particularly surprised by the price of quadruple rooms, which is roughly the same as two double rooms. So for a family, that’s a significant extra cost. The various paid sites in Kyoto also add up. As for food, it’s generally cheap, but it would be a shame not to budget for a few extras to try some less affordable specialties—like Hida beef in our case.
From Southern Shikoku, between land and sea, to the blue waters of Miyakojima and finally Tokyo’s megacity
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)

-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)

-->7 days in Tokyo

The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Hi everyone,
I have to admit, I really hesitated before deciding to write this travel journal... Writing one takes a lot of time and energy, and since this is my 4th trip, I wondered if it would actually interest anyone other than myself (both for the discovery and the writing). But after a few "Are you going to write a journal?" requests and especially the renewed pleasure from reading other travelers’ travel journals about Japan or elsewhere on this forum or elsewhere, I’ve decided to share this 4th installment in the Land of the Rising Sun here.
The itinerary: 27 full days, from late May to late June 2025, right in the middle of the rainy season, including:
-->13 days in Shikoku, from Kochi (Kochi Prefecture) to Matsuyama (Ehime Prefecture)

-->7 days in Miyakojima (Okinawa Prefecture)

-->7 days in Tokyo

The trip was decided on fairly last-minute this year, as usual.
I regularly check flight prices to track fluctuations for this destination, even without concrete plans. Finding a slightly cheaper direct flight (900 €) than what I’d seen in previous months (around 1,200–1,400 € on average) for a Paris-Tokyo route with Japanese airline ANA was too tempting to resist the urge to return to this enchanting country. After long hesitations between exploring the San’in region (Matsue, Tottori, Yamaguchi) and southern Shikoku, the decision was made—I took the plunge! The tickets are booked: Paris to Kochi with a layover in Tokyo, all with ANA, the airline I’d been dreaming of... for 1,120 € per person. Okay, it’s not cheap, but it’s still better than in 2023.
We leave in 2 weeks!! Now it’s just a matter of getting everything ready!
Intense work ahead in these 2 weeks to:
finalize a more precise itinerary and reach an agreement—yep, because even though we both love Japan, our preferences differ slightly, and we have to choose between exploring new places or taking time to revisit beloved spots... decide how much time to spend in each selected area without rushing while still exploring research places that might interest us and watch videos about Japan book accommodations: yes, it’s possible to do this on the spot as we go, but last year, we noticed that last-minute options were pretty expensive, so we’re booking ahead—even if it means keeping a few options open while we decide or see if better deals pop up later reserve rental cars order yen check the weather regularly and wonder if choosing the *tsuyu* (rainy season) was really a good idea—and whether we’ll be stuck in non-stop rain???
What a tough job, right? Traveling to Japan for a month—such a hard life! Despite this being my 4th trip, the excitement is just as intense as the first time.
The only small downside is that when we booked the flight tickets, there were only a few seats left, so we’re only sitting together on the international return flight. Plus, on the outbound flight, we’ve got the middle seats. Another lingering question: what French-language films will be available? According to the internet, the selection seems limited. Oh well, these are just minor details—it’s almost time to fly!
PS: I’ll be posting slowly and irregularly... so for those interested, be patient or maybe set an alert...
Hi everyone,
I’m planning a family trip in a year. Our goal: traveling to China (and maybe Hong Kong) by train. I’m all set with the route up to eastern Turkey. However, I’m just starting my research for the rest of the journey—namely the Caucasus (no trains as far as I know, so buses and/or ferries), then Central Asia and China. So, I’d love to hear any info or tips (general and forward-looking at this stage) about the train route through Central Asia and China to reach the east coast. I’m particularly interested in details on: - How far in advance to book / any potential difficulties with reservations - Whether there are PASS systems (or equivalent) between countries and/or if some tickets allow stopovers, meaning you can hop on and off as you please - Day trains vs. night trains (the latter option lets you explore cities between two legs of the journey) - A rough idea of ticket costs ...
A huge thank you to anyone who can share some info or experiences. It’s also a great opportunity to chat about adventure after (way too) many years away from this forum.
I’m planning a family trip in a year. Our goal: traveling to China (and maybe Hong Kong) by train. I’m all set with the route up to eastern Turkey. However, I’m just starting my research for the rest of the journey—namely the Caucasus (no trains as far as I know, so buses and/or ferries), then Central Asia and China. So, I’d love to hear any info or tips (general and forward-looking at this stage) about the train route through Central Asia and China to reach the east coast. I’m particularly interested in details on: - How far in advance to book / any potential difficulties with reservations - Whether there are PASS systems (or equivalent) between countries and/or if some tickets allow stopovers, meaning you can hop on and off as you please - Day trains vs. night trains (the latter option lets you explore cities between two legs of the journey) - A rough idea of ticket costs ...
A huge thank you to anyone who can share some info or experiences. It’s also a great opportunity to chat about adventure after (way too) many years away from this forum.
We’re a retired French couple.
We’ve just spent 4 weeks in China:
- 1. Exploring Yunnan in a group (12 people); a journey that took us from the Vietnamese border in the south to the edges of Tibet in the north.
- 2. A private trip to Guizhou with just a driver.
We’re absolutely delighted with what we discovered: a modern country with excellent infrastructure (especially the low level of urban pollution thanks to the high number of electric vehicles, the absence of diesel, and no noisy motorbikes in these two less industrialized provinces), friendly Chinese people who were always ready to help us when we had difficulties or questions, and a rich natural and cultural heritage.
The language barrier remains the biggest challenge, despite instant translation tools.
For both trips, we booked through the agency CIELCHINE, which we highly recommend.
The value for money is unbeatable.
The services were luxurious, especially for us since we usually travel alone on a tight budget for accommodation and food.
The agency’s staff were perfectly competent and, what’s more, warm and welcoming.
For Yunnan, our guide SEBASTIEN, who was experienced and knowledgeable, won everyone over.
In Guizhou, our driver HUANG was professionally flawless and guided us through villages he knows well. Friendly and full of humor, he’d spontaneously talk to people he met, which made us be treated with much more kindness and allowed us to exchange a few basic words.
As you can see, I haven’t ticked anything negative—not because I’m hiding anything or have any ulterior motive, but because I’m completely satisfied and the experience even exceeded all my expectations.
Hi everyone,
Do you know if Miyajima Island is served by ferry from Shikoku, and if there’s a ferry afterward to Kyushu with a car?
Thanks for your insights!
Hi everyone,
Has anyone taken a ferry with a car from Shikoku Island to Oita?
Any tips and links to ferry companies would really help.
Thanks for your feedback!
Hi everyone,
Great to be back here—it’s been years!
We’re heading to Japan with the family in mid-July and will mostly explore Kyushu for this second trip. We’ll wrap up with 3 days on Yakushima, but we’re planning to fly back to Osaka from Tanegashima after stopping by the space center. To get from Yakushima to Tanegashima, I’ve found two options: - Depart from Miyanoura port and go to Shimama with the Taiyo II ferry, but it arrives a bit too late for us (it gets in at 10:05 AM, and we need to be at the space center by 10:30 AM…) - Depart from Anbo port, but in that case, the boat goes to Nishinoomote, which is all the way at the north of the island—super inconvenient since the space center is at the very south!
Does anyone here know if there’s another way to make the Miyanoura/Shimama trip besides the Taiyo II ferry (like a private boat, a fisherman’s boat, or something else)? It feels silly to go all the way to the north of the island just to head right back down…
Thanks in advance! !
Great to be back here—it’s been years!
We’re heading to Japan with the family in mid-July and will mostly explore Kyushu for this second trip. We’ll wrap up with 3 days on Yakushima, but we’re planning to fly back to Osaka from Tanegashima after stopping by the space center. To get from Yakushima to Tanegashima, I’ve found two options: - Depart from Miyanoura port and go to Shimama with the Taiyo II ferry, but it arrives a bit too late for us (it gets in at 10:05 AM, and we need to be at the space center by 10:30 AM…) - Depart from Anbo port, but in that case, the boat goes to Nishinoomote, which is all the way at the north of the island—super inconvenient since the space center is at the very south!
Does anyone here know if there’s another way to make the Miyanoura/Shimama trip besides the Taiyo II ferry (like a private boat, a fisherman’s boat, or something else)? It feels silly to go all the way to the north of the island just to head right back down…
Thanks in advance! !
Hi there,
For our second trip to Japan, we’ll be spending 22 full days in Kyushu. 😎 Here’s our draft itinerary:
1 - FUKUOKA 2 - FUKUOKA 3 - FUKUOKA 4 - FUKUOKA / SASEBO / OJIKA 5 - OJIKA 6 - OJIKA / SASEBO / NAGASAKI 7 - NAGASAKI 8 - NAGASAKI 9 - NAGASAKI / KUMAMOTO +++ car rental +++ 10 - KUMAMOTO / ASO 11 - ASO 12 - ASO / KUROKAWA ONSEN 13 - KUROKAWA ONSEN / KUMAMOTO +++ end of car rental +++ 14 - KUMAMOTO / KAGOSHIMA 15 - IBUSUKI / CHIRAN 16 - SAKURAJIMA (car?) 17 - KAGOSHIMA / YAKUSHIMA 18 - YAKUSHIMA (car?) 19 - YAKUSHIMA (car?) 20 - YAKUSHIMA / KAGOSHIMA 21 - ??? 22 - FUKUOKA
We’ve deliberately skipped the eastern part (from Beppu to Miyazaki…)
We still have a few questions about our itinerary:
Car: For most of our travel, we plan to take the train or bus, except in the Aso region where we’ll rent a car. We’re wondering about Sakurajima and Yakushima: is a car necessary there?
Ojika: Would one night be enough?
Yakushima: Are two full days (plus two half-days) sufficient?
If we keep the schedule as is, we have one extra day to fit in somewhere—any suggestions?
Thanks for your help! 🙂
For our second trip to Japan, we’ll be spending 22 full days in Kyushu. 😎 Here’s our draft itinerary:
1 - FUKUOKA 2 - FUKUOKA 3 - FUKUOKA 4 - FUKUOKA / SASEBO / OJIKA 5 - OJIKA 6 - OJIKA / SASEBO / NAGASAKI 7 - NAGASAKI 8 - NAGASAKI 9 - NAGASAKI / KUMAMOTO +++ car rental +++ 10 - KUMAMOTO / ASO 11 - ASO 12 - ASO / KUROKAWA ONSEN 13 - KUROKAWA ONSEN / KUMAMOTO +++ end of car rental +++ 14 - KUMAMOTO / KAGOSHIMA 15 - IBUSUKI / CHIRAN 16 - SAKURAJIMA (car?) 17 - KAGOSHIMA / YAKUSHIMA 18 - YAKUSHIMA (car?) 19 - YAKUSHIMA (car?) 20 - YAKUSHIMA / KAGOSHIMA 21 - ??? 22 - FUKUOKA
We’ve deliberately skipped the eastern part (from Beppu to Miyazaki…)
We still have a few questions about our itinerary:
Car: For most of our travel, we plan to take the train or bus, except in the Aso region where we’ll rent a car. We’re wondering about Sakurajima and Yakushima: is a car necessary there?
Ojika: Would one night be enough?
Yakushima: Are two full days (plus two half-days) sufficient?
If we keep the schedule as is, we have one extra day to fit in somewhere—any suggestions?
Thanks for your help! 🙂
Hi there,
Having already visited some of the "classic" spots during my first trip to Japan in 2006, I’d like to show my partner some slightly lesser-known places (all relative, of course!) for our trip planned in November 2025, while still keeping a few of the country’s "must-sees."
Here’s the rough itinerary I’ve sketched out so far:
- Day 1: Arrival in Tokyo – Night in Tokyo - Day 2: Depart for Kamakura – Night in Kamakura or return to Tokyo - Day 3: Depart for Matsumoto – Visit the castle – Night in Matsumoto - Day 4: Matsumoto – Narai – Tsumago – Night in Tsumago - Day 5: Tsumago – Magome (hike) – Night in Magome - Days 6, 7, 8, 9: Depart for Kyoto – Sightseeing – Nights in Kyoto - Day 10: Depart for Kinosaki Onsen – Night in Kinosaki - Day 11: Explore the area around Kinosaki (Takeno? Izushi?) – Night in Kinosaki - Day 12: Depart for Himeji – Visit the castle – Night in Himeji or Hiroshima - Day 13: Miyajima Island – Night in Hiroshima - Day 14: Depart for Onomichi – Night in Onomichi - Day 15: Bike day to Ikuchi Jima / return by ferry – Night in Onomichi - Day 16: Depart for Tomo-no-Ura then Kurashiki – Night in Kurashiki - Day 17: Depart for Okayama – Visit the garden – Night in Okayama - Day 18: Kibi Plain bike ride – Night in Okayama - Day 19: ??? - Days 20, 21, 22: Tokyo – Nights in Tokyo
I’m struggling a bit to gauge how long the travel times will be, despite my online research, so I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on this itinerary.
Thanks so much in advance for your feedback!
Having already visited some of the "classic" spots during my first trip to Japan in 2006, I’d like to show my partner some slightly lesser-known places (all relative, of course!) for our trip planned in November 2025, while still keeping a few of the country’s "must-sees."
Here’s the rough itinerary I’ve sketched out so far:
- Day 1: Arrival in Tokyo – Night in Tokyo - Day 2: Depart for Kamakura – Night in Kamakura or return to Tokyo - Day 3: Depart for Matsumoto – Visit the castle – Night in Matsumoto - Day 4: Matsumoto – Narai – Tsumago – Night in Tsumago - Day 5: Tsumago – Magome (hike) – Night in Magome - Days 6, 7, 8, 9: Depart for Kyoto – Sightseeing – Nights in Kyoto - Day 10: Depart for Kinosaki Onsen – Night in Kinosaki - Day 11: Explore the area around Kinosaki (Takeno? Izushi?) – Night in Kinosaki - Day 12: Depart for Himeji – Visit the castle – Night in Himeji or Hiroshima - Day 13: Miyajima Island – Night in Hiroshima - Day 14: Depart for Onomichi – Night in Onomichi - Day 15: Bike day to Ikuchi Jima / return by ferry – Night in Onomichi - Day 16: Depart for Tomo-no-Ura then Kurashiki – Night in Kurashiki - Day 17: Depart for Okayama – Visit the garden – Night in Okayama - Day 18: Kibi Plain bike ride – Night in Okayama - Day 19: ??? - Days 20, 21, 22: Tokyo – Nights in Tokyo
I’m struggling a bit to gauge how long the travel times will be, despite my online research, so I’d love to hear your thoughts and advice on this itinerary.
Thanks so much in advance for your feedback!
Hello everyone, what a pleasure to be back on this forum!
My partner and I are heading to Japan for the first time from mid-December to mid-January for 31 days. It’s a long-held dream we’ve been saving for over two years, and we want to enjoy ourselves while also being mindful of our budget for parts of the trip. We’d love to explore Tokyo, but we’ve chosen to spend more time in nature. My partner plans to get his driver’s license translated locally so we can rent a car. We’ve heard from friends who’ve been that Japan isn’t the best place for improvisation, so we’ve tried to allow plenty of time in each location to avoid rushing. Still, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary we’ve planned—whether it’s feasible in terms of travel and how interesting it seems. Given the recent increase in the JR Pass price and the fact that we’ll spend about ten days on Goto, Ojika, and Yakushima (where the JR Pass doesn’t cover travel), we don’t think it’s worth it for us. Instead, we’re planning to take the train from Tokyo to Fukuoka and then use buses and ferries for the rest of Kyushu. Here’s our itinerary:
1- December 13 / Arrival in Tokyo, one night in Tokyo, then departure for Fukuoka by train on the morning of the 14th.
2 - December 14-16 / 2 nights in Fukuoka, sightseeing, then departure on the evening/night of the 16th by ferry to Ojika Islands.
3 - December 17-21 / 4 nights on Ojika, cycling and exploring, then departure on the 21st by ferry to Fukue on the Goto Islands.
4 - December 21-24 / 3 nights on the Goto Islands, renting a car to explore, maybe a trip to Hisaka. Departure for Nagasaki by ferry on the morning of the 24th.
5- December 24-26 / 2 nights in Nagasaki, visiting the city and memorials, possibly the hot springs in Unzen. Departure on the evening of the 26th by bus or ferry (?) to Kumamoto.
6- December 26-29 / 3 nights in Kumamoto, sightseeing, day trip by car to Mount Aso and surrounding areas. Departure on the 29th in the late afternoon by bus to Kagoshima, overnight in Kagoshima.
7- December 30 to January 2 / Morning departure by ferry to Yakushima for 3 nights, hiking and exploring the island. Departure on January 2 on the only ferry (?) in the early afternoon back to Kagoshima.
8- January 2 to 5 / Uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to the 5th at a ryokan in Kurokawa Onsen and then head back to Fukuoka and Tokyo by train on the 5th. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we’ll arrive in Kagoshima in the late afternoon, we thought we could head back up to Kumamoto by train or bus—going to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us with very little time. But is it worth staying another 2 nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’ll already be there for 3 days from December 26-29? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the afternoon of the 4th for our overnight stay?
9- January 5 to 13, Tokyo and its endless things to do and see, then back to France!
If you have any advice on any of these stops, we’d love to hear it! Have a wonderful day.
My partner and I are heading to Japan for the first time from mid-December to mid-January for 31 days. It’s a long-held dream we’ve been saving for over two years, and we want to enjoy ourselves while also being mindful of our budget for parts of the trip. We’d love to explore Tokyo, but we’ve chosen to spend more time in nature. My partner plans to get his driver’s license translated locally so we can rent a car. We’ve heard from friends who’ve been that Japan isn’t the best place for improvisation, so we’ve tried to allow plenty of time in each location to avoid rushing. Still, I’d love to hear your thoughts on the itinerary we’ve planned—whether it’s feasible in terms of travel and how interesting it seems. Given the recent increase in the JR Pass price and the fact that we’ll spend about ten days on Goto, Ojika, and Yakushima (where the JR Pass doesn’t cover travel), we don’t think it’s worth it for us. Instead, we’re planning to take the train from Tokyo to Fukuoka and then use buses and ferries for the rest of Kyushu. Here’s our itinerary:
1- December 13 / Arrival in Tokyo, one night in Tokyo, then departure for Fukuoka by train on the morning of the 14th.
2 - December 14-16 / 2 nights in Fukuoka, sightseeing, then departure on the evening/night of the 16th by ferry to Ojika Islands.
3 - December 17-21 / 4 nights on Ojika, cycling and exploring, then departure on the 21st by ferry to Fukue on the Goto Islands.
4 - December 21-24 / 3 nights on the Goto Islands, renting a car to explore, maybe a trip to Hisaka. Departure for Nagasaki by ferry on the morning of the 24th.
5- December 24-26 / 2 nights in Nagasaki, visiting the city and memorials, possibly the hot springs in Unzen. Departure on the evening of the 26th by bus or ferry (?) to Kumamoto.
6- December 26-29 / 3 nights in Kumamoto, sightseeing, day trip by car to Mount Aso and surrounding areas. Departure on the 29th in the late afternoon by bus to Kagoshima, overnight in Kagoshima.
7- December 30 to January 2 / Morning departure by ferry to Yakushima for 3 nights, hiking and exploring the island. Departure on January 2 on the only ferry (?) in the early afternoon back to Kagoshima.
8- January 2 to 5 / Uncertain leg... We’d like to spend the night of the 4th to the 5th at a ryokan in Kurokawa Onsen and then head back to Fukuoka and Tokyo by train on the 5th. From the 2nd to the 4th, since we’ll arrive in Kagoshima in the late afternoon, we thought we could head back up to Kumamoto by train or bus—going to Yufuin or Beppu would take much longer and leave us with very little time. But is it worth staying another 2 nights in Kumamoto to explore the area, given we’ll already be there for 3 days from December 26-29? Or should we stay in Kagoshima and head up to Kurokawa Onsen on the afternoon of the 4th for our overnight stay?
9- January 5 to 13, Tokyo and its endless things to do and see, then back to France!
If you have any advice on any of these stops, we’d love to hear it! Have a wonderful day.
Hi there,
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train. On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night. On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku: - 2 nights in the Iya Valley - Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights. - Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka. We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip: - Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita - Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro - Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD - Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy... I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving... Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu. For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)? Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot? For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
Thanks for your help!
We’re arriving as a group of three in Tokyo on Saturday, October 17th, then heading straight to Kyoto by direct train. On Sunday and Monday, we’ll explore Kyoto, and in the evening, we’ll take a train to Osaka to spend the night. On Tuesday, we’ll pick up a rental car at Itami Airport for a 6-day/5-night road trip around Shikoku: - 2 nights in the Iya Valley - Thursday morning, we’ll head to Matsuyama for 2 nights. - Saturday, we’ll visit Mima (town, a few temples + overnight stay) and return on Sunday to drop off the car in Osaka. We’ll leave very early on Monday the 26th by plane for Aomori in northern Honshu, where we’ll pick up another rental car at the airport for a 5-day/4-night trip: - Day 1: Tsugaru Peninsula (Takayam Inari, Cape Tappi, Kanita); overnight in Kanita - Day 2: Ferry transfer to the Mutsu Peninsula (cliffs, Lake Usori); overnight in Shimofuro - Day 3: Head to the Hakkoda Mountains and onsens galore; overnight TBD - Day 4: Return the car in Aomori by noon and explore the city before taking the train to Tokyo in the evening We’ll spend Friday night in Tokyo, wander around on Saturday, and head home on Sunday.
Thoughts on the road feasibility of this trip? We’ll be there right in the middle of Koyo season, so it’ll be busy... I know it’s a lot of driving, but there are two of us who can take turns. We’re not afraid of driving, even in the mountains and on the left side! Just wondering, are we going to be rushing, or is this manageable? AI says it’s all good, but it’s not the one driving... Any tips for booking accommodations in the Iya Valley? Not many places have email addresses or websites (I know Booking.com exists, but not all listings are on there... and given the season, I think it’s better to book ahead!). Same question applies for northern Honshu. For the rental car, I’m thinking of going with Alamo since at least it’s in French and straightforward, but are there any direct rental companies with user-friendly websites (Toyota Rentacar, ugh... 🏴☠️)? Another question: With so many trains, is it even necessary to book them in advance? Can we just go to the ticket counter and grab seats on the spot? For paying for the rental car, do we need a credit or debit card?
Thanks for your help!
Hi everyone,
I’m planning another trip to Japan next July-August (three and a half to four weeks). We were lucky enough to visit the country back in 2012 and explored Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, Hiroshima, and Miyajima Island.
This time, we’d like to spend a few days in Tokyo again and then discover other regions and cities. I really want to see Himeji Castle and Naoshima Island, but I haven’t decided on the rest yet.
Since we’ll be in Japan mostly in July (three weeks) and a bit in August (first week), I’m also thinking about the weather, which seems more favorable in the north (northern Honshu and Hokkaido), though the south (Shikoku, Kyushu) is tempting too.
I’d love to hear your advice on an itinerary, keeping in mind that we love variety—some history, temples, nature, and big cities.
I’m planning another trip to Japan next July-August (three and a half to four weeks). We were lucky enough to visit the country back in 2012 and explored Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka, Nara, Hiroshima, and Miyajima Island.
This time, we’d like to spend a few days in Tokyo again and then discover other regions and cities. I really want to see Himeji Castle and Naoshima Island, but I haven’t decided on the rest yet.
Since we’ll be in Japan mostly in July (three weeks) and a bit in August (first week), I’m also thinking about the weather, which seems more favorable in the north (northern Honshu and Hokkaido), though the south (Shikoku, Kyushu) is tempting too.
I’d love to hear your advice on an itinerary, keeping in mind that we love variety—some history, temples, nature, and big cities.
Hello Hello,
We’re two couples of friends heading to this amazing country and need your help to validate our itinerary.
First, I’ll share the overall plan for our trip. I can go into more detail for each day if everything looks good to you.
Thanks Thanks
30/10 Arrival at HND 31/10 Tokyo: Chiyoda, Yurakucho & Shinjuku 01/11 Asakusa, Ueno, Akihabara & TeamLab Planets 02/11 Day trip to Mount Fuji (Kawaguchiko) 03/11 Yanaka, Ueno, Shibuya & Izakaya 04/11 Ghibli Museum & Kichijoji 05/11 Shopping and Odaiba at sunset 06/11 Departure for Kyoto & first discoveries 07/11 Arashiyama, bamboo grove & zen temples 08/11 Fushimi Inari, Gion 09/11 Kyoto → Himeji → Hiroshima 10/11 Hiroshima (morning) → Osaka (afternoon) 11 & 12/11 Exploring Osaka and return to France 🙂
30/10 Arrival at HND 31/10 Tokyo: Chiyoda, Yurakucho & Shinjuku 01/11 Asakusa, Ueno, Akihabara & TeamLab Planets 02/11 Day trip to Mount Fuji (Kawaguchiko) 03/11 Yanaka, Ueno, Shibuya & Izakaya 04/11 Ghibli Museum & Kichijoji 05/11 Shopping and Odaiba at sunset 06/11 Departure for Kyoto & first discoveries 07/11 Arashiyama, bamboo grove & zen temples 08/11 Fushimi Inari, Gion 09/11 Kyoto → Himeji → Hiroshima 10/11 Hiroshima (morning) → Osaka (afternoon) 11 & 12/11 Exploring Osaka and return to France 🙂
Hi there,
I’d love to get some feedback on the itinerary I’m considering, since I’ll be using public transport. The order might not be ideal:
-Fukuoka: 4 days (including 1 day in Yanagawa, and I’d also like to visit Yutoku Inari Shrine)
-Nagasaki: 2 days (I’m a bit unsure about including it)
-Kumamoto: 2 days (including 1 day in Yamaga)
-Beppu: 2 or 3 days (1 day in Kitsuki)
-Yufuin: 2 days
I was also thinking about adding Ukiha and Usuki, but I’m not sure how to fit them in.
Thanks for your input!
Carole
Hi everyone,
I’m heading to Japan for the second time with my 20-year-old son. During our first trip, we spent two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto (plus the surrounding areas). This time, we’re planning to stay in Tokyo for at least 4-5 days and then head to the island of Naoshima. I’m looking for suggestions and advice: Is getting to Naoshima from Tokyo complicated? If so, do you have any recommendations for a stopover somewhere? Given that we’d prefer not to move every day, we’d rather settle in one place and then explore on day trips... Do you think it’s possible to do something like this: 5 nights in Tokyo (Shinjuku) 3 nights in Kyoto 2 nights in Naoshima (or is one night enough??) and if one night is enough, where could I spend a second night on the way back to Tokyo? 2 nights in Tokyo (I’d love your advice on staying in a different neighborhood—last time we stayed near Ueno Park)—keeping in mind we’re flying out of Narita.
I’m considering maybe skipping Kyoto, which I love but has apparently become *very* touristy... Not really keen on Osaka... since we’ll already have done Tokyo as our "big city." I’d prefer towns where nature is present... (a bit like Kyoto, which offers all that...)
For info, we’ll be traveling by train. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions and help!
I have one last little question: Is cash still widely used in Japan, or not at all anymore?
Thanks so much,
Karine
I’m heading to Japan for the second time with my 20-year-old son. During our first trip, we spent two weeks in Tokyo and Kyoto (plus the surrounding areas). This time, we’re planning to stay in Tokyo for at least 4-5 days and then head to the island of Naoshima. I’m looking for suggestions and advice: Is getting to Naoshima from Tokyo complicated? If so, do you have any recommendations for a stopover somewhere? Given that we’d prefer not to move every day, we’d rather settle in one place and then explore on day trips... Do you think it’s possible to do something like this: 5 nights in Tokyo (Shinjuku) 3 nights in Kyoto 2 nights in Naoshima (or is one night enough??) and if one night is enough, where could I spend a second night on the way back to Tokyo? 2 nights in Tokyo (I’d love your advice on staying in a different neighborhood—last time we stayed near Ueno Park)—keeping in mind we’re flying out of Narita.
I’m considering maybe skipping Kyoto, which I love but has apparently become *very* touristy... Not really keen on Osaka... since we’ll already have done Tokyo as our "big city." I’d prefer towns where nature is present... (a bit like Kyoto, which offers all that...)
For info, we’ll be traveling by train. Thanks in advance for all your suggestions and help!
I have one last little question: Is cash still widely used in Japan, or not at all anymore?
Thanks so much,
Karine
Hi everyone,
After years of silence and wonderful memories from our exchanges during two trips to South Africa, I’m back on the forum with plans for a trip to Japan.
We’re considering traveling from June 16 to July 9. I know this isn’t the best time weather-wise, but it’s our only option, especially since we want to include climbing Mount Fuji.
Here’s our itinerary—I’d love your thoughts: - Day 1: Arrival at Haneda in the evening (Night in Tokyo) - Day 2: Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 3: Nikko (Night in Tokyo) - Day 4: Travel to Hiroshima, then visit (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 5: Day in Miyajima (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 6: Day in Kagura Monzen Tojimura (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 7: Travel to Himeji, then visit (Night in Himeji) - Day 8: Himeji (Night in Himeji) - Day 9: Travel to Koyasan (Night in Koyasan) - Day 10: Koyasan (Night in Koyasan) - Day 11: Travel to Nara (Night in Nara) - Day 12: Travel to Kyoto (Night in Kyoto) - Day 13: Kyoto (Night in Kyoto) - Day 14: Travel to Fukui (Night in Fukui) - Day 15: Travel to Kanazawa (Night in Kanazawa) - Day 16: Travel to Hakone (Night in Hakone) - Day 17: Hakone (Night in Hakone) - Day 18: Travel to Kamakura (Night in Kamakura) - Day 19: Travel to Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 20: Travel to Fujiyoshida (Night in Fujiyoshida) - Day 21: Ascent via Yoshida Trail - Day 22: Descent via Yoshida Trail (Night in Fujiyoshida) - Day 23: Travel to Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 24: Departure from Narita
Let me know if any stops seem unnecessary or if you’d add something.
I’m planning to rent a car from Himeji (Day 9) until Hakone (Day 16) to make travel easier.
Have a great day!
Thomas
After years of silence and wonderful memories from our exchanges during two trips to South Africa, I’m back on the forum with plans for a trip to Japan.
We’re considering traveling from June 16 to July 9. I know this isn’t the best time weather-wise, but it’s our only option, especially since we want to include climbing Mount Fuji.
Here’s our itinerary—I’d love your thoughts: - Day 1: Arrival at Haneda in the evening (Night in Tokyo) - Day 2: Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 3: Nikko (Night in Tokyo) - Day 4: Travel to Hiroshima, then visit (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 5: Day in Miyajima (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 6: Day in Kagura Monzen Tojimura (Night in Hiroshima) - Day 7: Travel to Himeji, then visit (Night in Himeji) - Day 8: Himeji (Night in Himeji) - Day 9: Travel to Koyasan (Night in Koyasan) - Day 10: Koyasan (Night in Koyasan) - Day 11: Travel to Nara (Night in Nara) - Day 12: Travel to Kyoto (Night in Kyoto) - Day 13: Kyoto (Night in Kyoto) - Day 14: Travel to Fukui (Night in Fukui) - Day 15: Travel to Kanazawa (Night in Kanazawa) - Day 16: Travel to Hakone (Night in Hakone) - Day 17: Hakone (Night in Hakone) - Day 18: Travel to Kamakura (Night in Kamakura) - Day 19: Travel to Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 20: Travel to Fujiyoshida (Night in Fujiyoshida) - Day 21: Ascent via Yoshida Trail - Day 22: Descent via Yoshida Trail (Night in Fujiyoshida) - Day 23: Travel to Tokyo (Night in Tokyo) - Day 24: Departure from Narita
Let me know if any stops seem unnecessary or if you’d add something.
I’m planning to rent a car from Himeji (Day 9) until Hakone (Day 16) to make travel easier.
Have a great day!
Thomas
Hi fellow travelers! I’m planning a trip to Japan from March 22 to April 12 and really want to bike the Shimanami Kaido starting from Onomichi, but I don’t cycle regularly. Has anyone here done it and could share their experience or tips? Is the weather in March-April favorable? Should I plan for 2 or 3 days? Electric or regular bike? What’s better—having my luggage forwarded along the route or leaving it in a locker? Any recommendations for accommodations or bike rentals? Thanks in advance for your replies!
Hello,
What a joy to be back on this forum that I’ve browsed for so many years :-)!
I’m heading to Japan with my partner in November 2025. This will be my second trip there and his first.
I was planning to go from Tokyo to Matsumoto, which I haven’t visited before, and from there, check out Shirahone Onsen and then hike from Magome to Tsumago. However, after reading several travel journals, I’ve realized that the village of Shirakawa-go and its surroundings look amazing. Back in 2006, I visited Takayama, which I loved, but I don’t want to stay there again.
To visit the places mentioned above (Shirahone Onsen, Shirakawa-go, Magome, and Tsumago), I’m thinking that a car might be more convenient than public transport, especially for getting from Shirakawa-go to Magome. Could you confirm if that’s the case? If so, is it easy to rent a car for a few days to do a loop starting from Matsumoto?
Thanks in advance for your valuable tips.
Have a great evening
What a joy to be back on this forum that I’ve browsed for so many years :-)!
I’m heading to Japan with my partner in November 2025. This will be my second trip there and his first.
I was planning to go from Tokyo to Matsumoto, which I haven’t visited before, and from there, check out Shirahone Onsen and then hike from Magome to Tsumago. However, after reading several travel journals, I’ve realized that the village of Shirakawa-go and its surroundings look amazing. Back in 2006, I visited Takayama, which I loved, but I don’t want to stay there again.
To visit the places mentioned above (Shirahone Onsen, Shirakawa-go, Magome, and Tsumago), I’m thinking that a car might be more convenient than public transport, especially for getting from Shirakawa-go to Magome. Could you confirm if that’s the case? If so, is it easy to rent a car for a few days to do a loop starting from Matsumoto?
Thanks in advance for your valuable tips.
Have a great evening
Hi there,
My wife and I are heading to Japan from March 27 to April 22, 2025. On the evening of the 21st, we’ll be staying in Tokyo to catch our international flight. For this first trip, we’ve prioritized a fairly classic itinerary. Here’s the plan:
- Osaka (arriving at Kansai Airport) - Hiroshima - Itsukushima (also known as Miyajima) - Kyoto - Nara - Kanazawa - Shirakawa-go - Takayama - Tokyo
We’ll likely finish our sightseeing in Tokyo around March 17.
We’re thinking of heading somewhere "quiet" or "by the sea," maybe an island, between the 17th/18th and the evening of the 21st.
What are your thoughts or experiences?
Thanks
My wife and I are heading to Japan from March 27 to April 22, 2025. On the evening of the 21st, we’ll be staying in Tokyo to catch our international flight. For this first trip, we’ve prioritized a fairly classic itinerary. Here’s the plan:
- Osaka (arriving at Kansai Airport) - Hiroshima - Itsukushima (also known as Miyajima) - Kyoto - Nara - Kanazawa - Shirakawa-go - Takayama - Tokyo
We’ll likely finish our sightseeing in Tokyo around March 17.
We’re thinking of heading somewhere "quiet" or "by the sea," maybe an island, between the 17th/18th and the evening of the 21st.
What are your thoughts or experiences?
Thanks
I set off (on October 9, 2010) with my backpack from the Takijiri-oji bus stop, the starting point of the Nakahechi Route, which takes two days to reach Hongu Taisha temple.
Day 1: 12 km and a cumulative elevation gain (CEG) of 750 m. It was raining heavily, but I was well equipped with lightweight Gore-Tex. Spent the night and had a very Japanese meal at the ryokan Tsuki-no-ya at the entrance of the small village of Chikatsuyu-oji.
Day 2: the toughest day: 25 km and 1,000 m of CEG (just as much in descents...). Beautiful weather. Lots of fairly steep slopes with many stairs. Spent the night and had a meal at B&B Café in Hongu. Check out their English website.
Day 3: a rest day to visit Hongu Taisha Temple, then Yunomine Onsen and Kawayu Onsen, where I spent the night at Ashita-no-mori. They’re charming, speak English, and they were the ones who booked my nights for days 2 and 4 since I don’t speak Japanese. Connections between these three villages are by bus. Beautiful weather.
Day 4: Kogumotori-goe branch, taken in the opposite direction to what many pilgrims do. Beautiful weather. 17 km and 450 m of CEG, with just as much in descents. Fairly steep slopes, sometimes slippery stone slabs, and a few stairway sections. Spent the night and had a meal at Koguchi Shizen-no-le.
Day 5: Cloudy but nice weather. Ogumotori-goe branch to Nachi Taisha. Nearly 17 km and 1,250 m of CEG, with 1,000 m in descents. Similar terrain to the other days. Visited the temple, then returned by bus and train to my "logistics base" in Shirahama.
Things to note: > Don’t carry too much water. There are drink vending machines in many places. Bonus: cold drinks and a sugar boost. > This route is a bit technical, but it’s doable for someone who’s prepared physically. PS: I’m 62 and not a superhuman. > Check out the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau website (www.tb-kumano.jp)—it’s very well done—and ask them to send you the small guide with the trail maps (Pilgrimage Route Maps). There’s a certain Brad Towle, very professional and efficient.
In conclusion: a trek off the beaten path, very rewarding to experience. Early October seems like the perfect time. But May or June should be great too. I didn’t encounter many hikers, except a few during the first two days because Monday was a public holiday. All Japanese.
I highly recommend this trail—the only one, along with the Camino de Santiago, to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Feel free to contact me for more details.
Day 1: 12 km and a cumulative elevation gain (CEG) of 750 m. It was raining heavily, but I was well equipped with lightweight Gore-Tex. Spent the night and had a very Japanese meal at the ryokan Tsuki-no-ya at the entrance of the small village of Chikatsuyu-oji.
Day 2: the toughest day: 25 km and 1,000 m of CEG (just as much in descents...). Beautiful weather. Lots of fairly steep slopes with many stairs. Spent the night and had a meal at B&B Café in Hongu. Check out their English website.
Day 3: a rest day to visit Hongu Taisha Temple, then Yunomine Onsen and Kawayu Onsen, where I spent the night at Ashita-no-mori. They’re charming, speak English, and they were the ones who booked my nights for days 2 and 4 since I don’t speak Japanese. Connections between these three villages are by bus. Beautiful weather.
Day 4: Kogumotori-goe branch, taken in the opposite direction to what many pilgrims do. Beautiful weather. 17 km and 450 m of CEG, with just as much in descents. Fairly steep slopes, sometimes slippery stone slabs, and a few stairway sections. Spent the night and had a meal at Koguchi Shizen-no-le.
Day 5: Cloudy but nice weather. Ogumotori-goe branch to Nachi Taisha. Nearly 17 km and 1,250 m of CEG, with 1,000 m in descents. Similar terrain to the other days. Visited the temple, then returned by bus and train to my "logistics base" in Shirahama.
Things to note: > Don’t carry too much water. There are drink vending machines in many places. Bonus: cold drinks and a sugar boost. > This route is a bit technical, but it’s doable for someone who’s prepared physically. PS: I’m 62 and not a superhuman. > Check out the Tanabe City Tourism Bureau website (www.tb-kumano.jp)—it’s very well done—and ask them to send you the small guide with the trail maps (Pilgrimage Route Maps). There’s a certain Brad Towle, very professional and efficient.
In conclusion: a trek off the beaten path, very rewarding to experience. Early October seems like the perfect time. But May or June should be great too. I didn’t encounter many hikers, except a few during the first two days because Monday was a public holiday. All Japanese.
I highly recommend this trail—the only one, along with the Camino de Santiago, to be listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Feel free to contact me for more details.











