February 9 - Day 1

"So, my little wanderers, back at the decks? What’s this mystery destination you’ve got in store for us at the start of the year?"

Yes, the schoolyard bell’s ringing again! We’re hitting the road... or rather, the skies! At first glance, our destination might surprise more than a few. First off, simply because I was here exactly twenty years ago, and I don’t usually like retracing my own footsteps. Secondly, because the name of this place screams mass tourism—basically the opposite of what Flo and I look for.

Despite that, in this land of backsheesh, I’d promised myself I’d come back one day to experience it my way. And since Flo told me, during our wanderer chats, that this destination straddling Africa and the Middle East was in her top 2 travel dreams, the stars aligned for this roots-style trip to quickly make it onto our pharaonic festivities program! Unless you’re totally clueless in general knowledge, you’ve probably guessed by now—we’re off to Egypt! Of course, a few classics will be on our itinerary, but above all, we want to soak up a culture that can’t be appreciated in four-star resorts or on a Nile cruise boat. And let’s be clear, these next two weeks won’t be a walk in the park—neither for our two daughters who are joining us, nor for our bodies!

And that’s clear from the get-go: after our first flight, eight hours of trying (and failing) to sleep on Milan airport’s metal seats, our second flight, landing, passport stamps, our Uber ride, and our first Cairo kilometers, we finally drop our exhaustion at the little guesthouse we booked in Giza. Doesn’t all that energy deserve a little reward?

Oh, absolutely! And here it is: a full-on slap in the face for everyone! But just look at this view from our hotel terrace? For 20 € a night for four, even with this incredible view, I figured the room must be pretty shabby, right? Nope... Is the staff rude, then? Nope... Okay, so what’s the catch? You’re gonna tell me breakfast is included too? Well, yes! Honestly, this Egypt trip is off to a great start.



And the rest of the afternoon, spent rubbing shoulders with locals, only confirmed this vibe. After digesting our pyramid view, we dove into the hustle and bustle of our neighborhood with the goal of exchanging money, eating at street stalls, and testing the hospitality of the locals. Ten out of ten!









Eight little sun breads with baba ganoush and falafel? 80 pounds, or 1.5 €. A dozen Middle Eastern pastries? Same! 80 pounds! Two hawawshis, those little pita breads stuffed with meat and spices? 10 pounds each, or about twenty cents! Not to mention all those smiles and free "welcomes" left and right!!!





What a welcome! We end this first day with a sunset over the three sisters of Giza—where we’ll obviously be gawking tomorrow...







https://voyageforum.com/images/posts/small/1789072399-cCyLDYuFwPLAZTY.jpg

Hi there, I’m heading to Hurghada for a few days in November. I’m looking for a spot where I can go snorkeling right from the beach. Is that still possible, or do you absolutely need to take a boat trip to see anything worthwhile?

I’ve read about Makadi Bay, but also that it’s packed with big resort complexes—which I’d rather avoid. Are there any beaches accessible without staying at one of those huge hotels?

Any great tips or advice for me? Thanks in advance, Lucille

Hello,

We’re heading to Hurghada for the end-of-year holidays—could you recommend some excursions for us (we’re a couple with our 14-year-old son)? Any trustworthy agencies you’d suggest? Do we need a visa?

Looking forward to your tips. Best regards

Hi everyone, In October 2026, my wife and I are going on a cruise on the Nile. My question is: do they accept euros for personal expenses? Thanks everyone!

Hi,

I’ll be in Cairo in early November and I’m looking to join a group for a day trip to Saqqara, Dahshur, and Memphis. I’m staying in Giza.

Any agencies you’d recommend?

Thanks in advance,

Philippe

Hi there, I’m traveling solo to Egypt. Could you give me a rough idea of the budget for: meals hotels taxis including tips visits... Just an estimate, of course. For 15 days, what would the price range be, considering there’s an overnight train and a Nile cruise? I’d like to compare with a travel agency. Is it more worthwhile to go through an agency despite the downsides of group travel? Otherwise, if a travel buddy is interested in this country, why not? Thanks a lot!

Hello,

There are two of us, and we’re spending a few days in Luxor (after a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan, likely with Terres d'Égypte). On the way back, we’ve planned: - The evening of April 17th: the Karnak Sound and Light show - April 18th: a hot-air balloon ride - After the balloon ride on April 18th, we’re heading to Marsa Alam to join a group leaving for Sataya; our boat departs on the 19th.

Do you know what the cost of a Luxor to Marsa Alam transfer is? I’ve seen prices that vary wildly—some double what others quote—and I’m not sure what budget to plan for.

Can we organize the Karnak Sound and Light show and the hot-air balloon ride on our own, or is it complicated? If you also know of a reliable local agency for transfers and excursions, I’d love to hear about it.

Thanks for your tips!

We just got back from a trip to Egypt: 2 days in Cairo, then a week on the Nile with a cruise through a tour operator. An incredible discovery of the Pyramids of Cairo—such an emotional moment! Then a wonderful stroll along the Nile, where we leisurely soaked in the "life" along this river. An exceptional guide who transported us back less than 4,000–5,000 years BC... But here’s the thing—because there’s often a "BUT"—the flip side is discovering a *very* polluted country! Even on the Nile, the number of boats is staggering (I went barefoot on the boat one day, and by the end of the day, my feet were black with soot?). In Cairo, with nearly 20 million inhabitants, there’s trash everywhere (except around the airport and villa areas). We even saw a dead cow with stray dogs eating its "innards"—but no one seemed bothered! By the way, there are *tons* of wild dogs in Egypt and very few... cats! One day after our arrival, we had to pay our entry visa to the guide on the bus—and *only* in cash? 95 EUROS???? A disgrace, since the visa price is $25 (as stated on the visa stamp)... Someone needs to explain where that money goes??? The excursions (optional ones) are *five times* more expensive than the posted rates for tourists. There are two prices: one for Egyptians (which makes sense, given an average salary of 360 euros/month). On top of that, the cruise manager asked us to pay half in cash and half by card (we refused and paid everything in cash). First time I’ve ever seen that payment method for excursions—where *does* the money go?... During a stop in Aswan, we wanted to visit the Nubian Museum (amazing!). We took a carriage, and before leaving, we agreed on a round-trip price of 20 euros for 4 people to take us to the museum. It was all good with the driver—who called himself "Michel" and his poor horse, Rambo. On the way back, of course, he caused a scene, demanding *much* more... We refused and gave him the 20 euros we’d agreed on. But then, as if by chance, this same carriage driver stopped for a man who asked us to exchange two 20-euro bills and 10 one-euro coins for a 50-euro bill. I pulled out my 50-euro note while talking to Michel, and the other guy claimed I’d given him a 10-euro bill?? He handed me the bill—so you get the scam! So, be *very* careful with carriage drivers and their "colleagues"! Drinks on board are outrageously priced—a simple beer (Stella) costs 5 euros, and the wine is undrinkable... Tips are expected in euros—they won’t accept Egyptian pounds... and of course, you’re constantly harassed to exchange 5-euro or 10-euro bills, or even more! They end up with tons of coins, so we did it at first, but after a while, it’s just not possible—they insist way too much! I’ll stop here—it’s already quite long. So, a mixed-feelings trip overall...

philippe

Hi everyone,

We’re heading to Cairo in April 2025 and would love to do a 3-day desert excursion. Either the trip to SIWA or the classic "Bahariya Oasis and White Desert" circuit, ideally private or in a small group.

We’d prefer to go through a local agency in Cairo. Does anyone know a reliable one?

Thanks in advance!

Gaby

After a perfect first experience as a couple with Memphis Tour in 2020—where we left an outstanding review—we’ve just returned from Egypt with our family of six plus a baby, and we have numerous complaints:

On the day our cruise was supposed to depart, the boat stayed docked in Aswan for over 24 hours without starting the Nile navigation as scheduled. We only left the next day at 3:30 PM for a quick stop/visit to Kom Ombo at 6:00 PM, followed by nighttime navigation until arriving in Esna at 2:00 AM!

The next day, we departed at 9:30 AM and arrived around noon in Luxor, where the boat docked in the middle of nowhere, 12 km from the city center!

In the end, we were charged for 4 days on the magnificent Nile but only got a maximum of 5 hours and 45 minutes of daytime navigation!

And, to top it off, there was no stop in Edfu—meaning no carriage ride to the Temple of Edfu, which was advertised as one of Egypt’s largest and best-preserved temples. Instead, without informing us, they replaced it with a visit to Esna.

During a West Bank visit in Luxor, we had to wait for our kids, who were with another guide for a longer tour. When our guide contacted Memphis Tour, they refused to let us visit the Temple of Medinet Habu (just 5 € away) on our own! We were forced to go through them and pay 25 € per person.

Instead of letting us wait in front of the temple for our kids and the other guide, they dropped us off alone for a full hour in what they called an "alabaster factory"—which was just the usual overpriced tourist shop where all guides take you.

I’ll skip the overly simplistic meal at Philae: grilled chicken and rice with no dessert or coffee. And the amateurish organization where the guide on the boat wasn’t even informed about the next day’s exact program.

Finally, despite our repeated priority requests and Memphis Tour’s promises during booking, there was no baby car seat provided for several long trips—even though the traffic is certainly colorful but not always reassuring.

Nor was the promised baby bed available on the boat—only a third adult bed. We had to insist strongly to get one.

Even though the complimentary carriage and felucca rides in Luxor were nice, they don’t make up for everything else.

This is despite the skills and kindness of the guides and boat staff.

Since 2020, we’ve sent several groups of friends to Memphis Tour for their Egyptian trips, but that definitely won’t happen again in the future.

Too bad

Here I am, 80 years old with two trips to Egypt already under my belt, but I still dream of deserts and a bit of adventure. So, I’ve bought my flight ticket for March 4th, returning on the 18th (arrival in Cairo). My itinerary: 05.03. GEM 06.03. FAYUM OASIS WITH THE VALLEY OF THE WHALES 07. & 08.03. WHITE AND BLACK DESERT 9 & 10.03. ALEXANDRIA, DEPARTURE IN THE EVENING FOR SIWA 11-13.03. SIWA, DEPARTURE IN THE EVENING FOR CAIRO 14-18.03. CAIRO THE ITINERARY IS MORE OR LESS SET.

Since desert trips can’t be done alone, I’m looking for a travel companion (male or female) for these parts of the trip, but I’m also open to sharing the entire journey. Everything’s negotiable as long as everyone’s clear about what they do or don’t want to do. If anyone’s interested in this itinerary, you can contact me via private message so we can get to know each other and see if our plans align. Just so you know, these desert trips are done with a 4x4, driver, guide, and all the logistics that come with it. All of that comes at a price, which is quite high if you’re traveling solo—that’s why sharing makes sense. Plus, traveling as a pair or even a trio is great for sharing the emotions of the journey.

I’ve got a lot of travel experience, and even at 80, I’m still sharp and full of enthusiasm to start this trip, which I hope won’t be my last.

Looking forward to hearing from you, Mimi

Hi, We’re heading to the Tropitel Sahl Hasheesh hotel with family from April 19 to 26 and we’d like to visit the pyramids in Cairo. I found an agency that looks interesting: Memnon Reisen, but when it came time to pay the deposit, I got worried it might be a scam—the account is based in Dubai. Has anyone heard of them or used this company before? Thanks for your help.

Hi everyone! 🙂 I’m planning a 3-week trip to Egypt in July 2025, and my itinerary isn’t set yet. I’ve traveled solo as a backpacker before and I’m really into history. Here’s how I’m thinking of organizing it: Since I’ll be arriving and departing from Cairo, I’m thinking of visiting the Giza sites on the 2nd day and saving the city of Cairo and the Grand Egyptian Museum for a few days before my departure, after seeing the sites where the collections come from. After Giza, I’m planning two days of visits to Saqqara: the first in North Saqqara with the tomb of Horemheb, the Pyramid of Unas (entering), the Step Pyramid of Djoser (entering), the Serapeum of Saqqara (entering), the Pyramid of Teti (entering), the Mastaba of Mereruka (entering), the tomb of Maia, and the Imhotep Museum. Does that sound doable in one day? The idea is to have slept in Saqqara the night before to arrive right at opening. The second day would include the Red Pyramids (entering) and admiring the Bent, White, and Black Pyramids from afar in the morning, then the Pyramids of Pepi I and Pepi II, the tomb of Mehu (entering), and the ruins of the Pyramid of Djedkare Isesi in the afternoon. Does anyone know if there are drivers who can take you to these places and what the price range might be? The ruins of Memphis don’t really excite me (maybe I’m wrong), so I might just stop by the museum with the giant reclining statue. I get the impression that the buildings in Abusir are closed to the public—maybe I got that wrong? 😉 It seems complicated to visit the sites of Tell el-Amarna and around Tuna el-Gebel in terms of transport. Next, I’d like to visit the sites of Abydos and the temple at Dendera. I understand it’s necessary to go to Luxor first and then head back to Abydos and Dendera to visit them comfortably in one day. By the way, do you know if negotiated prices with a local guide would be lower than those from agencies like Get Your Guide (110 € if I’m alone)? How many days do you recommend for visiting the tombs in Luxor? I’d like to see a lot of them—would 3 full days be enough? After that, I’d really like to visit the sites of Esna, Edfu, and Kom Ombo on the way to Aswan. The only options I’ve found for this kind of route are by boat. Do you think it’s possible to hire a taxi for the day to make the trip to Aswan with these stops (and at what price!)? After Aswan, I’ll visit the temples of Philae and Abu Simbel over two days. Then, the rest of the trip is less clear: I’m considering visiting Alexandria and Rosetta. Maybe also, depending on how many days I have left, the sites of Bubastis (I’m having trouble understanding the significance of the remaining ruins) to continue to Tanis, which looks nice (is it?). But again, there’s the question of transport to get there.

This is quite a long post for a first message—sorry for all the questions! Have a great evening, Nico

Hi there,

I’ve booked a Nile cruise from Luxor to Aswan. The excursion to Abu Simbel is offered as an option, but for a family with 2 kids, it comes to 500 € for a lot of bus travel and very little time on site. Is it possible to find a local agency, taxi, or guide on the spot who’d offer the trip for less? Do we have to travel in a convoy? Thanks for your tips! Fred

Hello, We’d like to hire a French-speaking guide (agency, professional, or volunteer) to show us around Cairo over three days. Trip planned for November 22, 23, and 24, 2026—four veteran French travelers. We’re open to any leads, contact info, or suggestions. Best regards, Jacques

I’m stuck in the airport on a layover, so here’s what I wish I’d known before I left! :)

When I arrived, I got scammed right away at the VODAFONE stand in the airport. They sold me a 20 GB SIM card for 10 €—cash only because their terminal wasn’t working—and it stopped working the next day… After that, I got an Orange SIM in town for 10 €, and it worked perfectly.

I’d booked my airport transfer online with B… for 7 €, but it’s even cheaper on the spot with Indrive—I paid 4 € for the return trip. Indrive helps you avoid getting ripped off, because scamming is basically the national sport here…

Naama Bay, along with Old Sharm, is the heart of the nightlife: a few bars with music and shisha, and tons of shops selling knockoffs. The beach is nice, but there aren’t any corals.

Watch out: the beaches are all paid, costing around 2 to 3 € each time, and you’ll be packed in like sardines on sun loungers that are all squished together! Only hotels have private beaches, often with a shuttle running once or twice a day. Good to know if you’re thinking of renting an apartment…

Another issue with apartments is the food—there’s not much variety in the small supermarkets.

There’s apparently a free beach in Hadaba, but I couldn’t find it. I did find Shark Bay, which is amazing… but it’s a bit far.

At first, I rented an apartment, but I ended up switching to all-inclusive stays at different hotels for the same price…

AVOID booking with STAYFORLONG!!! I booked an all-inclusive stay through them, and when I arrived, the hotel told me it was only half-board! I couldn’t get in touch with them at all… That site is a total scam.

In early February, it’s chilly at night but hot in the sun during the day. The pool water is pretty cold, but the sea is fine for swimming.

The corals are incredible! Take advantage of them!!!

That said, once you’re out of the water, there’s not much else to do…

Hi there,

I’ve finally decided to make my childhood dream come true—and at the same time, fulfill my two boys’ dreams (ages 9 and 13). Just to give you some context, we’re used to "backpacker" vacations—the little one even crossed Malaysia on my back. But now I’ve got a teenager, so if I pack too much, he complains, and I’m getting older, so I’m more tired 😉.

I’ve put together this itinerary trying not to rush, based on a felucca trip with a small local agency that has a solid reputation.

Day 1: Late arrival in Cairo Day 2: Cairo - Flight to Aswan (11:20 PM)? Day 3: Aswan? Cairo? Day 4: Aswan Day 5: Sail Day 1 Day 6: Sail Day 2 (camel market + Kom Ombo) Day 7: Sail Day 3 (Jabal El Silsila) Day 8: Sail Day 4 Edfu - transfer to Luxor - arriving at 2 PM Day 9: Luxor (Valley of the Kings) Day 10: Luxor (Karnak) Day 11: Luxor / Cairo? Day 12: Cairo: Giza Day 13: Cairo Giza again - Flight home at 11 PM

My main question is about how much time to allocate in Aswan, Luxor, and Cairo to avoid missing out but without feeling rushed. We definitely have: - 3 full days in Cairo - 2.5 days in Luxor - 1 day in Aswan

I can adjust a bit: - By adding 1 day in Aswan or Cairo - By adding a half-day in Cairo or Luxor.

What would you recommend and why?

Thanks in advance!

Catherine, back on VoyageForum—what a joy.

Hello, Taking the boat from VENICE to Alexandria is easier than going through Tunisia and Libya. We’re putting together a group to split costs for a trip in 2011 or early 2012. Inshallah. I’m looking for people who’ve recently crossed the Libyan Desert—sand sea, oases, etc.—with their 4x4s. Any info is welcome, thanks in advance. Things like: Entry formalities for the 4x4. Agencies and guides for the desert. Military requirements. Fuel, etc. Thanks again. Saharan greetings.